as someone not familiar with this process at all, everything suddenly made sense at 5:40! thank you for your fantastic tutorials Stuart, the level of detail you go into is so, so helpful for people like me who are just starting to get into the world of prosthetics. I've only ever worked with moulding wax and liquid latex and your tutorials are really inspiring me to get stuck in.
Excellent question! You need to inject at the thickest point really, and the eyes are almost the thinnest area of gelatine, as the mould is almost touching the eyelids. The gelatine needs to be injected into an area which will allow it to flow freely into the whole face, and if you inject into the thin areas then it restricts the flow and cools quickly. Stuart
Would it not have been best to inject through one of the eyes as they will be covered by the buttons? Thanks for this series, it's really got me inspired!
Hello, Stuart! I just wanted to say thank you for uploading these videos, they are indeed making me feel a lot more confident about doing prosthetics. :) Also, I did want to ask... where do you usually get the materials to make the mold out of?
In theory yes, just make sure that there are no undercuts, as removing a rigid mould from a rigid shape will lock if the whole thing sets up around undercuts. It will not flex at all!
Hey Stuart I was wondering where can I get the mold material and can you cast silicone in it? or should I get a High temp Epoxy resin for mold making so I can run both silicone and foam latex :D
+Dark “Walter Bradley Fish” ScareCrow Fx's. Hey. Well, if you run foam latex in there then it would likely cause inhibition for the silicone so you'd need to choose one or the other. I would use fibreglass ideally which can be baked for foam or used at room temperature with silicone.
It totally can, this is most definitely the 'professional-high-budget' approach. but there is plenty of ways to cut this process down and do it a lot easier.
as someone not familiar with this process at all, everything suddenly made sense at 5:40! thank you for your fantastic tutorials Stuart, the level of detail you go into is so, so helpful for people like me who are just starting to get into the world of prosthetics. I've only ever worked with moulding wax and liquid latex and your tutorials are really inspiring me to get stuck in.
very nice... can't wait for the next part!!!! i have many books and seen many videos, but it's your tutorials that are helping me the most...
Awesome Stuart, as always. Love the idea of trialing the mould with alginate, never thought of that, great tip thanks.
Take care.
Paul.
Excellent question!
You need to inject at the thickest point really, and the eyes are almost the thinnest area of gelatine, as the mould is almost touching the eyelids. The gelatine needs to be injected into an area which will allow it to flow freely into the whole face, and if you inject into the thin areas then it restricts the flow and cools quickly.
Stuart
That bit with using alginate to test is super clever. Thanks for these videos!
Would it not have been best to inject through one of the eyes as they will be covered by the buttons?
Thanks for this series, it's really got me inspired!
Hi - mostly Mouldlife but I also use PS composites and Jacobson Chemicals, all UK firms.
Stuart
that just fell out of its flashing, good job!!! Great vids, thanks very much, looking forward to number 4 :)
Hello, Stuart! I just wanted to say thank you for uploading these videos, they are indeed making me feel a lot more confident about doing prosthetics. :) Also, I did want to ask... where do you usually get the materials to make the mold out of?
Great! extremely informing video! Would it be possible to apply gelcoat & f1 paste to a plaster face cast to create a negative indentation?
@alatony Probably not - found from a mould making supplier. You may find spray wax is easier to find though, or use an epoxy parfilm.
-Stuart
In theory yes, just make sure that there are no undercuts, as removing a rigid mould from a rigid shape will lock if the whole thing sets up around undercuts. It will not flex at all!
Hello Stuart, I don't have any silicone, can I replace it by something else for this step ?
is the overflow space also called flashing?
The overflow creates the flashing. The flashing is on the piece, not the mould.
I haven't used silicone in this step...
Stuart
Ur great sir
Hey Stuart I was wondering where can I get the mold material and can you cast silicone in it? or should I get a High temp Epoxy resin for mold making so I can run both silicone and foam latex :D
+Dark “Walter Bradley Fish” ScareCrow Fx's.
Hey. Well, if you run foam latex in there then it would likely cause
inhibition for the silicone so you'd need to choose one or the other. I
would use fibreglass ideally which can be baked for foam or used at room
temperature with silicone.
Thank you :D
can I get silicone spray at any hardware store?
Damn! I kinda hoped this could be done at home.
It totally can, this is most definitely the 'professional-high-budget' approach. but there is plenty of ways to cut this process down and do it a lot easier.
I love this
OH!!! IT'S AMZING.
I LIKE.
this is good
1:20 looks like hanibal lecters mask!!!
oh sorry it was gel coat !
0 dislikes. as it should be
Aaaaand now I'm completely lost. :)
at 1:29 it looks sub-zero and scorpion from mortal kombat , which is awsome :D