I'm embarrassed to admit that I didn't even think to clamp another board on top when making my blade slit. I can't have a riving knife on my table saw due to age and there isn't a place to attach one so finding this video really helped me step up my game. I'll be remaking my zero clearance soon in a similar fashion. That tip for using a router table was great too. Didn't even occur to me. I just found the middle and used a circular jig to make the curve.
This is exactly how I made my last two zero clearance inserts. Second for the dado stack. All those links you added and none for the micro jig splitter?!? That’s the most useful thing in the video
LOL "like Franks hot sauce, I put it on everything" That is a classic Brandon, I a new subscriber. Good video. I like that you show your "mistakes" like I make in the shop.
I bought a three-ply bamboo cutting board at WallyMart and it was enough for three inserts. Bamboo is very tough (they make flooring out of it) and attractive. I also used the MJ splitters, one for my full-kerf rip blade and another for my thin-kerf crosscut blade.
great video,thank you. Any suggestion on this question. I am planning on building DIY table saw. There will be no insert. Couldnt I just use the jig feed it over the blade and then use the guide to drill the holes ???? Thank you
So I guess you never got that call from SawStop. It's too bad because you could use an upgrade. That saw looks like a direct drive craftsman maybe? I have a craftsman 3 hp (1 1/2 real HP) contractors saw. While it obviously is not a SawStop caliber machine it does pretty well and you can get them on Craigslist for around $100. Coupled with your biesemeyer fence it could do you a good job. BTW I've subscribed and will wait for your next vid. Thanks for sharing.
I have an old Crafstman/Sears table saw - the factor throat plate is only 1/16 inch thick (metal). How would I go about creating a zero clearance insert for something that thin? (non-standard thickness)?
What a lot of folks do is use their dado blade (they're usually smaller) and cut a relief with it just enough to clear the 10" blade then change back. '
All of them. Walnut will expand and contract whereas the MDF won't. I quit using the ill-fitting metal insert and made a custom one that fits perfectly 😉
I'm embarrassed to admit that I didn't even think to clamp another board on top when making my blade slit. I can't have a riving knife on my table saw due to age and there isn't a place to attach one so finding this video really helped me step up my game. I'll be remaking my zero clearance soon in a similar fashion. That tip for using a router table was great too. Didn't even occur to me. I just found the middle and used a circular jig to make the curve.
This is exactly how I made my last two zero clearance inserts. Second for the dado stack. All those links you added and none for the micro jig splitter?!? That’s the most useful thing in the video
How did I miss putting that in there? Some UA-camr I am 😂I remedied the situation!
LOL "like Franks hot sauce, I put it on everything" That is a classic Brandon, I a new subscriber. Good video. I like that you show your "mistakes" like I make in the shop.
Love your re-enactment...made me laugh out loud. Thanks!!
I bought a three-ply bamboo cutting board at WallyMart and it was enough for three inserts. Bamboo is very tough (they make flooring out of it) and attractive. I also used the MJ splitters, one for my full-kerf rip blade and another for my thin-kerf crosscut blade.
That's a pretty good idea.
great video,thank you. Any suggestion on this question. I am planning on building DIY table saw. There will be no insert. Couldnt I just use the jig feed it over the blade and then use the guide to drill the holes ???? Thank you
Отличная работа 👍
Nice video 👍
So I guess you never got that call from SawStop. It's too bad because you could use an upgrade. That saw looks like a direct drive craftsman maybe? I have a craftsman 3 hp (1 1/2 real HP) contractors saw. While it obviously is not a SawStop caliber machine it does pretty well and you can get them on Craigslist for around $100. Coupled with your biesemeyer fence it could do you a good job. BTW I've subscribed and will wait for your next vid. Thanks for sharing.
I got exactly the number of calls I expected to get 😅
It's a Craftsman 1 3/4hp belt drive hybrid cabinet saw made by steel city.
I have an old Crafstman/Sears table saw - the factor throat plate is only 1/16 inch thick (metal). How would I go about creating a zero clearance insert for something that thin? (non-standard thickness)?
How did you get the proper air flow
Why not use a 7-1/4" circular saw blade to start the kerf with the insert fully seated?
What a lot of folks do is use their dado blade (they're usually smaller) and cut a relief with it just enough to clear the 10" blade then change back.
'
Hey Ken... Take a peek at this video. It will show and explain why all blades are not the same. ua-cam.com/video/PRyE_Hfbh1g/v-deo.html
In what world is MDF more stable than Walnut? LOL
Also, why use the ill fitting stick insert instead of the custom insert that fit perfectly?
All of them. Walnut will expand and contract whereas the MDF won't. I quit using the ill-fitting metal insert and made a custom one that fits perfectly 😉
seriously? the entire point of sheet goods such as mdf, plywood, osb, all of it is to create a stable substrate. wood moves
If you changed your blade to 7 1/4 blade it would cut thru it