How to Build a Zero Clearance Insert and Splitter for a Table Saw | YeahPete
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- Опубліковано 12 лют 2020
- I use an old Craftsman 113 which parts are no longer available, so I design a zero clearance insert with a built in splitter that can be used. If this helps you, please help me by liking and subscribing. Feedback is appreciated.
Some funny bloopers aka "learning experiences" at the 8:48! - Наука та технологія
Words to live by: "I just have to get better." Nice job. Simple and sturdy.
Thank you for the support.
Thanks Pete, looks like fun!
I own my father's Craftman 113.27701. I'm 77, and I think the saw must be 70 years old, give or take a few years. The saw still meets my needs, but the splitter is a good idea, and something I will attempt very soon. Thanks
I'm really glad I made the splitter, helps a lot with kickback.
Great job , have an old Craftsman, searching for ideas ,you’ve gotten me closer to getting er’ done, thanks !
Thanks for the comment! I definately think this is the best design for a splitter.
I’ve got an old 113 I’ve been reworking and I appreciate your vids! Machined pulleys, v link belt, arbor bearing, CMT Orange cross cut and rip blades, and new brushes so far... I’ve got one aftermarket insert with micro jig pro steel splitters, but need plates for dado stacks and I’m glad I found this vid to make some for that purpose. Even though too that I have the micro jig splitters, they sit at a little over 3/4”, so I think I’ll make one like yours with that higher knife just for bigger cuts.
Nice. Sounds like your restoring the whole thing. Would love to see a pic of that. Thanks for the comment!
Thanks for your excellent demo and good ideas.
Thanks for your support!
Your idea worked perfectly!
Thanks for the comment!
I too have the exact same saw which was passed down to me from my father. I think he purchased it in 1960 or 61. I've used it for a few years now and have always wanted to add a splitter, but previous attempts just didn't work. I'm going to give this a try. Thanks for video.
Thanks for the comment, hope it works for you.
so far this is the easy method. thanks!
Thanks for the comment!
FYI there is a bolt and spring assembly on the trunnion assembly that held the optional factory blade guard, splitter, and anti kickback assembly on most of this series Craftsman table saws.
Thanks for the comment. Unfortunately my saw didn't come with one and buying a new one was too expensive.
I have my Father’s 1946 Craftsman and have been looking for a way to place a splitter or riving knife in it. Thanks this is a great start.
Thanks for the comment its worked well for me so far.
Thanks for doing the trial and error for us lol
I like to call those 'learning experiences". Lol.
Good job. I just picked up a dilapidated vintage Craftsman table saw and am looking for ways to make it useful in my shop.
NICE! Vintage is the way to go. Seems like it'll last forever.
If you want a countersink in Steel just use a large drill bit to make the countersink. That way you can keep the countersinks for wood only!
Unless you are using a mill with a vise clamped to the table and a good drill chuck the drill bit will not leave a good chamfer. Also no drill has an 82 degree angle for a countersink. He need to slow his rpm
Thanks for the info both of you!
I just cut a slot in the metal plate and silver soldered the rive knife to the back side it protrudes thru the slot works great, 30 minutes start to finish
Nice!
Nice job! What do you think about just cutting the slot for the blade further and inserting the splitter from the bottom? Wouldn't hsve to patch up the top.
Picking up an old Craftsman tomorrow and will add tgat option. Thanks!
That works if you want a bit less sticking out from the top. Hope it works out for you!
I would have added the 90° piece through a saw slot from below (probably by extending the saw cut) and screwed in in from below
Thanks! I thought about that as well. Decided against it because I wanted more sticking up.
Nice idea mounting a piece of angle on the underside. looks like you're learning from your lack of fabricating skills though.Nothing wrong with making mistakes as long as you don't keep making the same ones.
Thank you for the comment!
Just make an wood insert for the cover of the L bracket screws and put one couter sunk screw in the middle to hold it to the plate underneath. Looks good though. I will try one myself. Thanks
Great idea. Will do that next time.
I have the exact same saw. I have been looking for someone who made one of these for a while! Thank you!! Question though, where can I get the extention beds? Does your fence work on the extention?
Both wings came with the saw. The fence does work with both. If I need to go past, I just clamp a straight board to the table and use that as a fence.
Bed frames are hard steel. I've tried to cut it with our metal bandsaw and it took forever.
Great job dude.. Is this the 1st one u made?? I love the idea with the L bracket piece of metal. I have a few of them in my shop. U just gave me a great idea for the splitters too BTW.. I was thinking about making my own table saw using the parts from a crappy saw I have but I'm a little stumped on the design.
My saw is powerful enough to cut a lotta woods but the table is trash so what I'm looking to do is change the mechanism for the blade and motor. What i really want to do is make it a belt driven saw which might make it a better all round saw in the end but I need to build some metal framing to attach the saw motor and arbor to so I can have the table top seperate which will mean I can square thing up more easily.
I'm gone way off on a tangent about rebuilding my saw man but I really enjoyed this video u made. Have u tried using ASH?? It's also a very tough dense wood and great for Zero clearance plates as well..
Yes this was my first insert. I have not tried Ash. I have also floated the idea of making my own table saw simply because the low priced saws are absolutely horrible. Probably the easiest idea for making your own saw is using large 12-16" chop saw. It already has pivot mechanisms. You attach the handle to a very long bolt to raise and lower the blade like a worm gear.
Some people have just inverted a skill saw and bolted it under plywood. Problem with that is you can't lower the blade easily and my fingers are more important than a couple hundred bucks. Just talked to someone in person who cut a finger off a few weeks ago. Happens to even the most experienced!
Best thing to do is go to estate sales and look for an old saw. They last forever and a cast iron top is unbeatable.
Great vid! I have the same saw that my dad bought in the 50’s. I have been trying to figure out how to make a splitter for this saw. You gave me a lot of ideas on how to do it. You did this a while back. Has it been working?
Works great. Just make sure to use a hardwood like hickory. Hardwood moves less and its sturdy even when thin.
Use a flush cut edge trimming bit in your router and duplicate the oval using the original throat plate as a template. Just trace the original onto a new piece of wood, then jigsaw it put just slightly wide of the trace line. Use the router to trim off the rest and you’ll have an exact match.
Thank you so much! It's getting about time for me to redo this project and that sounds like the correct way to do this!
@@YeahPete may I make another suggestion? Instead of cutting out a channel in the top of the throat plate for the splitter to sit in, cut a slot into the top exactly where you want it positioned, then stick it in through the bottom.
I'll probably make 2 next time. 1 through the bottom and 1 through the top. The problem with through the bottom is it doesn't stick up as far as I'd like.
@@YeahPete yeah was thinking the same. You’d have to find something else to use for metal stock. A gate hinge maybe. Or else just heat a metal bar until it’s red hot and bend it over in a bench vise.
Using a steel square straight edge would have helped you align the blade with your riving knife steel piece so you would not have had to eyeball it.
Thanks. Yes I originally tried that, but it was feeling like it was still catching. You want it inset like a tad from the blade or the wood is more likely to catch it.
Using hss countersinks in steel you need to slow your rpm all the way down. Try adding some oil as well. Looks like your rpm was way too fast hence your mangled bits. Also look into coated cobalt. As a machinist I've learned anything worth doing is worth doing right Otherwise nice video.
Thanks for the tips. I know nothing about metalworking. Definately have to educate myself on that. I didn't expect that steel to be so hard. lol. Thought a bedframe would be cheap unhardened steel. I did use some oil but yeah didn't slow it down.
That drill and router blooper, you're lucky there pal. Both of those mis-haps could have resulted in losing digits 😬
Yes, definately a wake up call on what not to do. Thanks for the comment.
Just a thought, why not cut a slot for the knife and screw it in from the bottom? That way you don't have the big hole there.
I thought about that. It wont stick up as high as I want it. Probably be easier to do it that way if you have a larger piece.
Looks good! A little too much text at beginning though.
I used to have the same setup except my L piece was screwed up into the bottom of throat plate ....🤳🏻
I also used a straight router blade with bearing to trim the plate while it was stuck to metal plate
Thanks for the comment. You have a video on how you made the cutout? I like having the bracket at the top of the piece it protrudes more. Not sure what you mean by cutting out the metal plate but I'm always interested in improving my designs. If you have a video or some pics I'd like to check it out. I made an awsome clamp design ill be posting in a few months too if your interested.
Risks without slide
Thanks for the comment! I agree.
4.) 😂😂
Thanks for the comment!
Problem #1...those countersink bits may have been OK for wood, but you ran them WAY too fast for steel.
You'd have been better off using them at SLOW speed in a hand drill, or even resorting to an old-fashioned brace.
Not to worry, part of the learning curve when making your own stuff for the first time.
keep it up!
Thank you! That's why I like youtube we can share knowledge and improve!
Why not just use a correct size drill bit to put in the counter-sink holes?
You are concerned with safety but you tried to "free hand" rout that groove. I've surprised you still have fingers. Please, don't do that again. Anybody who watches "how to" videos should not follow your example. Sorry but not good. Other than that, your ideas are sound. Oh, and the reason you dulled your countersinks, they don't appear to be for steel. Probably meant for wood.
Thanks. Yeah I put it in the video to show why it is a bad idea.