Whirlpool Washer Repair (New Top Load Washer)
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- Опубліковано 15 лип 2024
- This washer repair video helps troubleshoot whirlpool washing machines, maytag bravos and Maytag Centennial washer error codes, kenmore washer fault codes and diagnostics, as well as many other brands of top load belt drive washers from recent years. I will show how to get your washer into the diagnostic mode, read fault and error codes. I also show how to do an automatic diagnostic cycle for help with troubleshooting and repair on this washing machine style. The splutch drive whirlpool built washing machine. More washer repair help is available
applianceassistant.com/Washer-...
For proper appliance repair training I recommend training.fredsappliance.com - Навчання та стиль
Finally ! This is how every DIY repair video should be!
Saved me so much money! Sears wanted to charge me 25 bucks to tell my what my sensor flashing code meant! We are dead broke too, thank you.
Entertaining and educational!
Here is one cause of
Error F7 E1 = washer inner tub speed sensor fault.
that I haven't seen. Because of some rust deposits on the part of the housing of the actuator where the infrared transmitter / receiver sticks up into the gearcase and counts the slotted wheel of the washer drum, my washer gave this fault. A quick cleaning of the slot cured it. Unplug & Lean washer securely against a wall, remove 2 green screws holding in the actuator, clean slot and put back. You don't even have to unplug it!
Do you honestly think that an ,80 year old woman can fix this? LOL
Thank you very much!!!! Apparently your video helped me fix my whirlpool, like a BOSS!!!
This was a really user friendly video! Thank you so much!!
THIS INFO GIVES ME SOME HOPE THANKS
Great video , So helpful best tutorial easy to understand and follow. Thanks now I'm the household hero
Thank You so much my friend. My washer is working thanks to your valuable information
Good lesson learned, thank you!!!
SPLUTCH!!!
Thank you for the video!
Thank you for posting this. My washer machine is having the same issues. Please name again the type of grease you recommend for the gears? Thank you.
Great video, thank you.
cool there is a similar teeth system behind the main drive shaft pulley to the mechanism in a samsung washer
I love this explanation!
What do you think about whirlpool cabrio wtw7000dw. Are those easy to work on with direct drive motors?
Thank you, that was a big help done great explaining the problem. 5 stars
Thank you!
Thanks for the video i would have been totally lost after buying this used Whirlpool..If i had researched a little i would never have gotten rid of my old GE i would have repaired it,this thing sound so weird i can't stand it,and it takes wayyy too long and is too mechanically plastic
For anyone else who got confused on the code deciphering (it took me a while lol), the first light(s) that blink together need to be added to get the F number. Then the next light(s) that blink together need to be added to get the E (error) number.
Stumbled across your video looking for one to repair mine.
Of course I would have the model not so common to the easy fixes shown on UA-cam for a Whirlpool, Agitator Dogs.
Your Video? One of the best videos on explaining this mess to regular folks. Helpful? Yes. Thank you.
Great info. It looks like for agitation, the motor actually spins one direction for a few seconds, then stops and spins in the other direction, over and over? Am I seeing that correctly?
I must have missed something in your video. Just like in video washer makes grinding sound in agitate and spin. You said it's a common problem and and easy fix. What do I check?
Carmine mine was doing the same just tighten the bolt in the transmission
great job - thank you
@applianceassistant can you point me in the direction of the other video you mentioned in this one? that's exactly the sound that's happening to ours.
Hi, my Whirlpool machine does not agitate in wash mode but it does in auto test mode
I have a kenmore 110.28002011.This video doesnt work for that model at all.
Mohamed Khan, same here.
I've been picking up, repairing and selling used Whirlpool and Kenmore direct drive washers for years. I think I'll save the last few for me to get me through the apocalypse...
That would be wise! I'm going with a wash board and a bar of lye ; )
Hello what's was that video u said in this video about that nosie
what is the part # for the whirlpool vantage with a f71 error
Thank you
can i ask a repair question on this site?
I need the another video of the sound one you show why you no out tge link
I can’t get mine to come on nor go into diagnostic mode. When I plug it in it just clicks, which sounds like it’s coming from the top by the controls. Model ATW4675EW0. I’ve changed the kid lock switch already and still does the same thing.
Hi thanks for this informative video, I have had this rotten cabrio 5700 for only 3 years and just had repair guy out to replace the stripped washer drive pully. However this wasn't the only problem and tech thinks its the control board. Before calling Whirlpool I ran your Diagnostic test. Before clearing codes I got F7 E7, E1 F7, E1 F5, F2 E1. after I cleared and ran the short test cycle I get F7 E1. The lid lock also flashes and doesn't unlock sometimes unless I unplug. Any thoughts? Thanks
lorraine Deihl Very common problem for this washer style...Sounds like it needs a new speed sensor, and may be a lid switch.
applianceassistant.com/Washer-Repair/Whirlpool-Washer-Belt-Drive-Splutch/Whirlpool-Belt-Drive-Washer-Error-Fault-Codes.php
Speed sensor: www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Shift-Actuator/W10006355/1719787?RCAID=27317
Lid switch: www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/b5p11/Whirlpool-Washing-Machine-Door-Latch/W10404050/1938607?RCAID=27317
and if you want to complain to Whirlpool about it (which I recommend!) Here is a guide on how to best get through to them for some warranty concession...
applianceassistant.com/Customer-Service/Whirlpool-Washers.php
Hope that helps! These washers are very common and have lots of problems... Good luck!
I'm all splutched up!!!!
WHERE is the OTHER video???
As someone else mentioned, interested to see the video to fix the "horrible noise" problem mentioned about four minutes into the video. Jumping around through the hyperlinks, just can't find it. does it exist? Thanks
Merci
I have a whirlpool Mod 1CWTW4800YQ1 and it would not fill or start, I checked the supply and its ok I also tried your diagnostics but that did not work. The machine sensing lights stays on and then eventually switches off without starting up.
Great video !!!
So any other reason besides the nut on the pulley for the grinding noise on spin cycle? Just won’t get up to speed on spin already changed the transmission still no luck
That’s pretty strange. I would have said transmission or something jammed between the inner and outer tub, but I would assume you would have caught that during the transmission replacement. Big reach would be the capacitor or motor but that doesn’t really fit. I’m sorry I can’t be more help.
applianceassistant thanks for your time
applianceassistant I figured it out
The grease from the old transmission got on the shifter and belt pully causing it to slip the gears. Cleaned it with some break cleaner and problem solved
@@mrphilleakey That's great! thanks for the update!
As several others have asked - where is the second video in the series you refer to at the 4 minute mark?
Steven Marsich sorry still haven't put it together. Thanks for sharing the link!
applianceassistant
I get the grinding noise on spin and no real speed. Help!
I have a F1 E2 error and have tried running a test, sometimes the lid locks sometimes it doesn't and it sounds like it is spinning, but the drum won't move at all... also when not in manual testing mode, just regular after first plugging in, lid locks, releases then I hear a humming.. please help... in test mode it fills and drains
The F1E2 error is a bad one, it points at the main control board. The rest of the symptoms make me think you should look at the motor capacitor, they have been fairly common to fail on these washers. It's a large black cylinder mounted next to the motor. You need a pretty hi-end meter to check it for capacitance, but if you don't have a meter that can check it, most of the time when they fail there will be some sign of melted plastic oozing out of the front or back of the capacitor. Try clearing the error, hopefully it was just a bad reading from the capacitor issue and the control is okay.
LoL love your sense of humor! Why cry when you can laugh.
Thank you! It's always an annoying situation having a washer break down, so I try to lighten things up a little if possible.
Ok , I have another question!! So for the last two months my Amana HE washer has also started to sound like a loud airplane taking off. It does it on the spin cycles. It’s so loud you can hear it on the opposite side of my house. Would that also be caused by the belt?
More than likely the gearcase.
Awesome, thank you!!
Here I go with CODES!! I think I'll SNAP!!
It can be pretty confusing! I hope the video helped a little. good luck!
Mike Small ol
We just replaced the water pump on our Bravos. The clothes are not coming out clean and I realized that the wash plate doesn't seem to be moving independently from the drum. The drum moves fine, I think, but the clothes just float in a circle because there doesn't seem to be any movement from the bottom.
I don't know if we broke something else while replacing the water pump but the new pump seems to work fairly well.
It’s not too consputching.
loveeeeeeeeeeeeeeee sososososos mucccchhhhhhh....mudah untukkk fahammmm sebab video ni ajar satu persatu...tq sir dan saya mohon kepada admin untuk buat video pasal diagram chiller box n ajar saya untuk lebeh mudah memmahammi sistem RSC compressor ...tq so much
What would make the diagnostic LED flash on and off and one of the relays on the board to flash on and off not simultaneously though
There is an led on the control board that flashes just to let you know it has power... not sure if thats what you mean. Where you able to get it into diagnostics?
Water wont stop coming in pressure switch is good line does not leak air
Oh My Gawd...My kind of repair man, I have been working on Harleys all day, mifes says the wahser is fucked, so I find this clip...I am laughing my butt off, and know what to fix!
Soooo my friends washer did that 'noise'. But it worked just fine other than that. My husband tried to fix it, didnt see the video. Messed up more. Now shes mad, im mad, hes mad. When we start the cycle (after he messed with it) the sensoring light comes on. It locks, fills the machine with way too much water than needed then all the lights turn off, it drains but never washes or spins. My husband didnt mess with the wires at all. He however took the cover on the bottom off, unscrewed the wheel thingy, put it back on. Then he took the entire drum out. Dont ask me why. Then the problem occured. Any idea what he did or how to fix it? Help. Please.
There is a more complete guide on my website:
applianceassistant.com/appliance-repair/whirlpool-belt-drive-washer-repair-guide/
We don't want friends and spouses mad at each other! lets figure it out... Can you get me the washer's model number? If not most of these washer types are almost exactly the same. If he or you are still allowed to look at it, can you get it into the diagnostics mode like in the video? If so are you seeing any error codes?
the errors are the first step. As far as the noise, all you need to do is remove and reinstall the nut that holds the larger center pulley wheel on. They tend to loosen and grind against that cover. I'm thinking in the tub removal/ repair process perhaps the small clear tube that runs up the back of the washer (used to detect how much water is in the tub) may have been cut, punctured, or pinched...
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Why would my Whirlpool model 4800 get code F2E1 (Stuck Key) when it has no digital display? (The Stop/pause/cancel button works fine). Just wondering.
Lex Conor control board fault
My Whirlpool Cabrio has been the single least reliable appliance I have ever owned. I just ordered a new Splutch assembly. In the past I have had to replace the lid switch, the water pump, the gearcase, and the suspension rods.
I absolutely agree! Appliances are in a sad state these days! Very frustrating.
Did you see the motor that this unit use? Its a mini motor in fact for me its not a real motor for an unit like whirlpool , we want our direct drive whirlpool BAAAAAACKK!!!
Hi, On a Sers110.22102310 washer it started the take a bit longer to start to fill. than when it goes through the cycle it doesnt stop, it keeps repeating the cycle again, any ideas ? Thank you
It it is this style of washer, I would guess it’s a control board failure that’s causing the cycle problems. The slow fill is likely the water valve.
same washer, I will try a mode shifter first
I have an amana washing machine ntw4516fw0 and when I put to wash it starts to fill on sensing then when it goes to wash it just stay on wash it does do anything what can it be
did you get any error codes out of the memory?
what is the other video you are referring to at the 4:00 minute mark?
can you bypass a lock that is on the lid of a washer whirlpool it was broken & now does nothing.
Yes you can ! A few ways to do it . I can’t post them here out of safety and respect for the owner of this page . It is not safe to jump it out but I had no other way of testing a second switch . I will say this . I did find a Broken blue wire just before it plugs into main board? Found this after I got a new switch .
After retrieving the stored error codes, I pressed and held the start button for 3 seconds to erase the. I then tried to run a manual diagnostic test, but none of the lights ever came on! Someone please help!!! Before I erased the codes, I had an F7E7. I don't see the owner's manual, where everyone has said it is located, so I have no idea what this code means. Unfortunately, I also have the horrible grinding sound AND the airplane taking off sound! 😭
Hi.. so My cabrio WTW5640XW0 wont start up, and I have the F7E1 code. how can I tell if its the splotch, the motor or the transmission... thanks
everwharesismine that error is the tub speed sensor error. applianceassistant.com/appliance-repair/whirlpool-belt-drive-washer-repair-guide/2/#error so you will likely need to replace the shifter/speed sensor. Whirlpool has used 3 slightly different styles of shifters so not sure which part number you need without a model number. If you clear the code from the washer's memory and run a diagnostics quick test applianceassistant.com/Washer-Repair/Whirlpool-Washer-Belt-Drive-Splutch/Whirlpool-Belt-Drive-Washer-Diagnostic-Tests.php
you may be able to get a few more weeks or months out of it.
everwharesismine That error is the tub speed sensor error. applianceassistant.com/appliance-repair/whirlpool-belt-drive-washer-repair-guide/2/#error so you will likely need to replace the shifter/speed sensor. Whirlpool has used 3 slightly different styles of shifters so not sure which part number you need without a model number. If you clear the code from the washer's memory and run a diagnostics quick test applianceassistant.com/Washer-Repair/Whirlpool-Washer-Belt-Drive-Splutch/Whirlpool-Belt-Drive-Washer-Diagnostic-Tests.php
you may be able to get a few more weeks or months out of it.
So I've been having issues getting the spin cycle to run. Error codes f7e1 and f7e6. Are there any suggestions on how I proceed with figuring out whats wrong exactly and what I can do to fix it?
the F7E1 is a shifter fault and the F7E6 is a motor fault... The shifter is very common so I would start with that, especially if the motor is working on agitation... The service manual is in a plastic bag stuck to the inner front left of the cabinet, with that you can see how to clear error codes and run a few tests to try and narrow down the problem. However, odds are you will need a new Actuator/Sensor. Here is a link to my website guide for this washer: applianceassistant.com/appliance-repair/maytag-centennial-washing-machine-repair
Hope that helps! good luck!
Sorry replied logged in as my other account service node... this is appliance assistant ; )
@@applianceassistant good to know. I don't know if this information matters or not. But if I just try to put it on a spin cycle, it begins to spin and then just stops suddenly after about three seconds
Please explain how you get a 7 or a 5 or a B? out of the error codes..and an "FO" and "EO" on the est. time remaining box?
....
I think F0 and E0 would mean no errors. Not sure what you mean about the 5 and 7 or B.
Watch your video...you called out those #s Right after the Puppy Thank you for your response...@@applianceassistant
@@leonewton383 No problem. It is a weird system!
@@charlesyingst7963 No. You said F, 8,4,2,1, then the error had E, 6,7....????
@@darlahughes1931 First Code Sensing = F, rinse = 4, spin = 2, done = 1 (4+2+1 =7) Hope that helps!
Wait, where did the E come from?
Where are you getting F7e1? When you explained the lights, you labeled them, F8421. Did I miss something?
+chip Fit It is a total of the lights flashing. So on the F7E1 Sensing (F),Rinse (4), Spin (2), Done (1) = F+4+2+1 = 7 then (No Sensing Light and Done (1) = E+1) Kind of a weird system, but not too bad once you get the hang of it. Sorry for the confusion. Thanks for the question!
Last night my wife may have overloaded our Kenmore 110 HE VMW and there was a lot of burning smell. Now she gets a flashing lid lock during the sensing phase. I figured that the drive belt was the problem. I got the diagnostic code F7E7 Motor unable to reach target RPM , which says that there is a basket sensor so, I am guessing that the belt is either broken or slipping so much that the basket movement doesn't satisfy the expected rpm when in sensing/spin mode. The washer is a real chore to move to a position where I can tip it over to check the drive belt so I just wanted to see if you think I am on the right track before I decide to do a fix myself. Help?
If everything looks okay under the washer, check between the inner and outer tubs, something may have gotten stuck in there that is causing drag.
@@applianceassistant Thanks, I looked at the belt yesterday and it looks OK. I checked the basket and it spins easily with one finger and takes a while to coast to a stop so I don't think there is anything stuck between the drum and basket causing drag and the bearing appears OK. Should the basket spin that freely when powered down? I'm thinking that shows there is little resistance through the gear case and belt drive to the motor. Is that normal or would there be more resistance to spin? Also,the sudden burning smell when the event occurred should give some clues: belt looks OK, motor? (I don't see any obvious signs...copper wiring looks clean. Can this be a problem with the shifter? Capacitor? That apparently is the most usual problem. I will have my wife start the washer while I am under the tilted base to observe if the motor jogs at all later today. When I start the cycle the lid locks for a few seconds then unlocks for a few more (sensing mode) then lid lock lights again and I hear the sound of the motor for just a second then the lid light starts flashing. I have gone through the diagnostic test 3 times and get the E7F7 error code consistently. The washer ser no has 2013 in it so I assume that it was manufactured in 2013. We got it with the house 2 years ago and have used it very sparingly since then (1 time/week at most) and it was with a small 4 pers family before so it hasn't had a very long life.
Problem solved. I ran it in test mode and the error cleared. Also, the error code had changed from F7E7 to F7E1 today (maybe since I tipped the machine and moved the belt?) Anyway, it was likely due to overloading which cause the belt to slip (and smoke) before it faulted out. I'll get a replacement belt anyway but it works now. Thanks!
@@wicker1234 Nice! Thanks for the update!
@@servicenode9553 It didn't last long. When we tried to do a wash I got the red flashing lid lock again. The diagnostics show the F7E1 code again. Still seems to be related to the basket rpm sensor not agreeing with the motor. I am leaning towards replacing the shifter/actuator since the optical rpm sensor is located there. Possibly the overloaded washer caused it? Seems to be the most common item to fail but, also, a lot of ppl replace it and the problem remains. Any ideas?
Hi It's a bit unclear that you need to read 2 sets of blinking lights at each dial position once you're in diagnostic mode. The FILL (sensing)light on gets a number (Making "F") AND the FILL light off (making "E") gets a number. My code was F7E5 , so I'm going to replace my actuator and hope for the best. THank you SO much!
So where does the 7 come from ? Thanks
I change the main board and I'm going to change the actuator please help
Bummer! Did you get any error codes out of the memory with diagnostics?
@@charlesyingst1825 how do I get the error code
@@charlesyingst1825 ok got the code the lights that flash when I check the code is the sensing light flash with the wash light and complete light is that error code f-8-1
I watched the video over and over and still can't get how to Read the codes, where does 7 come in and the the E's plus #'s??? I have the very machine in the video and it does make a loud sound on spin, what is it?
It is kind of confusing... This is a page that I created to help clear things up. applianceassistant.com/Washer-Repair/Whirlpool-Washer-Belt-Drive-Splutch/Whirlpool-Belt-Drive-Washer-Diagnostic-Tests.php
The first time it flashes with the "Fill", "Sensing", or "Soak" lights, is the "F" part of the code. The second flash without one of those lights on is the "E" part of the code. After that, you just add up the total of the lights that you see for each flash...
The "wash" light is "8"
The "rinse" light is "4"
The "spin" light is "2"
the "done" light is "1"
So for example, if the "Fill" light is on it's the "F" then "Rinse" (4) and "Done" (1) 4+1=5 The first code would be F5
Then you just get "Done" (1) . the full code would be F5 E1 .
This page will tell you what each code means:
applianceassistant.com/Washer-Repair/Whirlpool-Washer-Belt-Drive-Splutch/Whirlpool-Belt-Drive-Washer-Error-Fault-Codes.php
Hope that helps!
Best Appliance Repair VIDEO EVER !! Thanks for the technical help and the serious laugh out loud!! Oh... just had to spend $75.63 for a new actuator, another fine crafted, well designed part. (heavy sarcasm)
How do I find out what is causing that last grinding noise?
I never finished that video, sorry : ( But its usually main the plastic drive pulley on the bottom becoming loose and grinding against the cover. Removing it and reinstalling with some Loctite on the pulley nut will probably solve it. If that pulley seems tight, it is likely the gear case which would not be worth fixing. Good luck!
@@applianceassistant thanks
Also, ? How do I keep the pulley from turning while loosening the nut?
@@michaelgrimmett9909 It's not too bad, just holding the pulley with you hand while tightening will work.
I cant get mine to even display the error codes. When its plugged in it just clicks and no matter how many times I do the sequence of three right one left one right it will not going into the diagnostic mode.
Where does the click sound seem to be coming from? (The lid lock area, control, or under the washer) Does it start when you first plug it in or after you try to start a cycle or start diagnostics? What's the model number?
My actuator is just clicking and the washer wont start....is it the splutch or actuator?
I would guess actuator. The splutch is only a factor after the washer has started and is attempting to transfer power to the drive system. Good luck!
Mine doesn't have the lights
I call them "idiot lights" My old 2000 washer works just fine and I have seen washers from the 1970's still working on youtube. Don't buy a modern machine!
where can you see a list of the codes?
Inside the front panel there is a ziplock bag with the user manual in it. Just tilt the basket back and you will see it.
I heard F -8-4-2-1. Where does E -5 -3 come in??? I'm talking about F7E1 and F7E6, etc. as diagnostic codes. I replayed it and that's not explained. Thanks!
you add up the light/numbers on each flash sequence. so 4+2+1 would be F7. Hope that helps!
1:26
I have that washer and dryer set
How are they holding up so far?
@@applianceassistant they are holding up good
Water leaking from whirlpool Ultimate care11 washing machine
Hi sir, I using the same control board in whirpool washer. when i saw the board is short i relaced the control board and ON the machine it will not work and after a 15 second the new control board also short. please reply me to find the reason of short.
Love your video beginning parts! Yeah, these washers are junk. Our direct drive is still working after 25 years. That just will not happen with these. They even changed the motor pulley to plastic! FAIL!
Hi - im just an old guy (57) and wanted to say we grew up with washers that lasted 20 - 25 years or more - My GE filter flo is 40 years old and only this year needed its first major repair. And it washes clothes like a demon and does it fast. No, it wont do it with a quart of water, but when youre done you don't even worry about if the clothes came clean, you just know it. Ive read about owners of new HE washers having to add water with buckets to get the washer to even fully wet the clothes, let alone clean them. And washers like this used to be the norm from all the major brands - but now theyre all made the same, flashing lights no agitator(??)and delicate computer boards have replaced solid well thought out engineering designs with years of development behind them - but they cost just as much and more though today they typically only last less than five years. And who ever heard of plastic gears in a transmission or heavy load area like a washer-??! Knowing parts are scarce for my old GE I went out and shopped washers for the first time since the 80s when my deceased aunt left me this GE I spoke of. I remember shopping with a friend and his wife, they bought a Whirlpool I believe and it was a good washer. But after looking at todays offerings It didn't take me long to see the major downgrade in quality and performance after reading all the reviews and talking to people, so I bypassed all the big box brands and bought a heavy duty commercial Speed Queen washer before the government forces them to start making HE junk as well next year. The SQ has been everything it was promised, not flashy just a good old fashioned heavy duty washer that works, works well and works fast with no computers no drama and the best warranty in the business. I paid a little more but am very pleased with the washers performance and build quality - I highly recommend the simpler knob controlled model as it uses no circuit boards and is much more reliable. My problem is I grew up in an era when companies touted performance and long life and they delivered it and it was the norm - not any more. People are taken in by fancy computer touch pads blinking lights silly songs and water efficiency claims, but they just don't have the performance or build quality of old school washers - but they still charge just as much for these under performing under engineered things --- end of rant--lol
yambo59 you have the right idea boss man! Just like cars!
why the he!! isn’t this stuff in the manual jn the first place
Agreed! ApplianceAssistant, giving customers all the crap that should have been in the manual in the first place! Thanks for the new slogan ; )
whaa whaa .... diagnost turn dial , status lights stored codes ,2nd light ,8 ,8,2 ,1 basket, f5e1 ? I hate electronics !!!
dan moyer I agree! did the video help at all? I'm trying to figure out the best way to show people how to troubleshoot and repair these appliances because unfortunately they are likely to have problems... Thanks for the comment!
i think electronics are wonderful, helps with everything
where do you get the e code?
E is the second light that flashes. Hope that helps
How to fix your Maytag/Whirlpool... buy a Speed Queen. Problem solved!!
Agree!
Dear FTC:
Why is this missing from the documentation for my washing machine?????
Thank you, appliance assistant...
By the way, I design the type of computer that went into this...and even *I* hate this diagnostic method!
Sorry I missed your comment! I agree, this should be a part of the use and care manual! Instead they hide it behind the front left of the cabinet... Some of the newer appliances don't include service manuals. I'm trying to get more of this kind of information out there on my website for people to use. Thanks for the comment! Do you know of a way to pull the logic code out of these control boards through the ICSP or something like that? I would love to see it!
You do NOT turn the knob counterclockwise 4 times... you do one click left 3 clicks right 1 click left and 1 click right...
10 years ago you did... You are correct, new models don’t require the clearing counterclockwise rotations. Thank you for the comment. 👍🏻
@@applianceassistant 10 years ago we did not have to I had a machine that was from about 2009, 2010, 2011 and I did not have to turn the knob 4 times like that
My trusty GE Filter flo lasted an amazing 40 years and still going after some recent minor repairs - but knowing major NOS parts sources are drying up and it will one day not be repairable, I went out to shop new washers. -- I was shocked at the cheap flashy and needlessly computerized & complicated mechanics with sub standard build quality, bad reliability and bad reviews almost across the board. So I repaired my old GE and went out and bought a heavy duty Commercial Speed Queen with the best warranty in the business - Its got old school build quality washes fast and effective and it cost $600 less than the retail price of this thing. Myself I think adding something as delicate as circuit boards in a machine that fills with water and shakes like crazy is bad engineering, and worse yet its on purpose. - Weve had high quality well made effective washers for 50 years and didn't need any of this gimmicky stuff, the corporates have caved to govt. nazi water restrictions, gone greedy cheaped out and gotten rid of real suspension systems, and heavy duty construction and replaced it with flashy cabinets, control panels and stainless steel to mask the fact the appliances now failure prone innards have plastic instead of metal in the main drive systems most important parts - including the outer wash tubs which are also plastic. They may be stainless and flashy on the outside, but theyre high priced junk on the inside. And as long as the public continues to accept its ok to buy a new washer every three years they will keep making them this way.
actually some of the plastic parts are designed to fail if something is wrong or wear before causing wear on other more expensive parts. e.g. the motor and transmission!
Yes That's true, motor couplings for instance can shear to prevent further damage or over heated motor etc - but today so much of the plastic is being used in places that it doesn't have the fatigue or wear properties to hold up like previous generation washers made up into the early 90's. for instance outer tubs are now made of flexible plastic instead of enamel coated steel - my 40 year old GE's enamel tub is only just now showing signs of rust, but todays washer need tubs replaced in as little as five years or less when they crack, and in some the bearing is molded in and if the bearing goes out you have to replace the tub as well. And the plastic is propogating the growth of smelly mold as well - see numerous videos on it. And its so sad to see all the bad reviews of previously solid high quality brands like Maytag, Frigidaire, GE etc. that have all turned from long lived 15 - 20+ year appliances that give good value for the money to over priced, poor performing, poorly engineered throw aways in as little as 2 to 3 years - many reviews and videos back me up on this. I personally have a 1977 GE Filter Flo washer thats still going and only this year needed repairs. Not to mention a lot of washers now, especially front loaders take over an hour to finish a load because of low water regs. and all the goofy back and forth "sensing" and "balancing" actions that don't really wash well and waste time - now instead of waiting on the dryer were waiting on the washer. It used to be the suspension system was just made to handle an out of balance situation on its own by design -- In fact a local repair tech where I bought my new Speed Queen told me they use the sensing action because companies have eliminated the older very effective mechanical suspension systems and just hang the tub on cheaper sprung rods to reduce cost and so now rely on circuit boards to try and "pre-balance" the load before the spin cycle - which doesn't really work all that well because the clothes move around constantly. And if ya think about it, anyone that knows electronics will tell you putting delicate circuit boards into a wet environment along with heavy vibration etc. is the worst thing you can do to a circuit board, so its no surprise theyre failing - yet most all washers have them now and theyre expensive to replace when they die - often the machine isn't worth fixing and gets tossed when a board goes out due to the cost of the boards or other expensive plastic parts. What really irks me is they still charge just as much and more money for this kind of build quality. Another glaring example is Samsung washers literally exploding with the tops coming off and sending dangerous shrapnel into walls etc - (see videos on this) - theres no excuse for this, for 40+ years we had high quality washers that lasted decades and did the job well and in my 57 years I never heard of even one exploding until this new HE stuff came on the scene. Point is washers used to last decades, they washed well and washed fast without undue drama or any of this computerized jazz, and were built much better to boot. I guess you had to have grew up with these kind of quality appliances to understand why im ranting like this--lol We don't see the lonely Maytag repairman on TV anymore, hes much busier these days--lol
Where is the video with the loud terrible noises? This is the closest I have gotten to finding the solution. Please help!!!!
Sorry I never got around to finishing that video. I do have a guide on my website for this washer type. The noise is usually caused by the nut that holds the main pulley on becoming loose and allowing the pulley to grind the belt cover. Just tip it back and look underneath for a circular cut on the inside of the belt cover. If that’s it pull it all the way off and reinstall with some Loctite on the bolt threads. Good luck!
Thank you!
where dose the 'E" in the code show up?
+collectorbob810 The washer doesn't actually signal "E" it's just the second flash in the sequence. So the first "F" code will have the "sensing" light in addition to the code. For the second part, the "E" code, the "sensing" light will be off.
I HAVE A WHIRLPOOL. AFTER JUST A FEW MONTHS USE, ALL IT DOES IS WASH AND WHEN IT IS SUPPOSED TO RINSE , IT BEGINS TO FILL BUT STOPS AFTER A MINUTE, THEN FLASHES LIKE, IF IT WERE TO SAY "I AM IN TROUBLE HERE"! THE LID LOCKS AND WILL NOT OPEN UNTIL ABOUT A HALF HOUR LATER. ALL I HAVE IS SOGGY SOAPY CLOTHES. I HATE THESE NEW MACHINES. BUT I MUST SAY THAT THESE LOCKS ON THE MACHINES ARE MAINLY BECAUSE HOW MANY MOMS LEAVE KIDS UNATTENDED WITH WASHERS OPEN AND THE KID CLIMBS IN AND DROWNS. SO NOW, WE HAVE TO SUFFER WITH THIS LOCK MESS AND THESE COMPUTER ON MACHINES. I WANT AN ANALOG MACHINE. I WISH MY MACHINE WAS THE CLOTHES.
I dislike my washer I am ,,80 and widowed I have had it for 6 months and only been able to use it once
Thank you for your comment. I completely understand! The quality of “durable goods“ in this era is highly questionable. Hopefully someday the planned obsolescence model for production will be replaced by a more sustainable plan!
Great, helpful video.
A little more robust design on some of these parts, you might even think you went back in time 60 years to an era when washers / dryers would last seemingly forever.
This modern era of under engineering is just disgraceful by any standard.
Price up quality down.
Let's Go Brandon!
Just catching on? Been going on for at least 50 years. Blame your president instead of your real rulers. Wall street.
its L R R R L R lol
what is the "very easy repair" to that god awful noise? i dont see a video on it
Sorry I never completed it, got too busy with repair work. It's usually caused by the main plastic drive pulley I show in the video at that point coming loose. Try reinstalling that pulley nut with some Loctite. If it's not that it may be the gear case which I would not recommend putting the money into. Best of luck!
Ok I’m the guy that has no clue what the heck just went on here…. You lost me at F731?????Please break it down … sorry guys I’ll catch up
Whirlpools wash machines from Top of their line to the Bottom of the line are absolutely JUNK....What a shame for a brand which at one time were regarded as one of the best as well as( Maytag even more durable)which Whirpool now owens and destroyed the Maytag brand and Kenmore brand and so on..
cant understand WTF you're talking about lol
Any of these new Whirlpool built top loaders are garbage. This should be pretty apparent because the title of this video has the words " new " and " repair " in it. If it has a lid lock and / or a push button start on a washer, there's only one thing it's good for. Scrap. If you want a good washer, get a good used Whirlpool direct drive washer.
Absolutely! The old direct drives are getting difficult to find... but one with a nondigital pressure switch, in good condition should be fixed as long as parts are available! I have a video series on that type... they are my first videos so they kinda suck but they give good info I think...
If there was a way to dislike this video more than once i would.
By 1:17, I was annoyed out of watching. Maybe turn down the pretention a splutch...?
This is a video for kids... LMAO! Get real dude.
I MUST ADD, THESE VIDEOS DO NOTHING BECAUSE I BEGAN TO TEST AND ALL IT DOES IS FILL, WASH WRING AND LEAVE ME WITH SOAPY WET CLOTHES. HATE THESE MACHINES.
I’m sorry for all your frustrations Angela! I feel your pain, I work on this type of washer all the time and agree with your previous comment... I am not associated with Whirlpool in any way. That being said, if your washer is only a few months old, call whirlpool and get it fixed under warranty. If it’s out of warranty, it sounds like you may have a bad lid lock or tub sensor. you need to do the diagnostic test I described with the tub empty for accuracy. Also did you get any error codes? I may be able to help you narrow down the problem.
Adding the extra unnecessary audio is very distracting and will keep me away from your videos.