I clean my brake in the same stuff I clean my barrel with. I simply soak it in Free All while I'm cleaning the rest o the rifle. The days carbon simply falls off with Free All.
Hi, please let me know what "Free All" is? I also for cleaning the brake the same fluids I use for the barrel, for example the stuff from BoreTech or KG Industries - but "Free All"???
According to Area419, you don't want to use citrus products on nitrided parts as it'll give them a pink hue. They recommend cleaning often (every 200-400 rounds) by soaking in carbon remover and then brushing where needed. I'm betting a sonic cleaning machine would still speed that up (and maybe eliminate the brushing) just as it does with your stainless brake using your formula. Thank you!
I place my cleaning objects in a ziplock bag filled with my solution, THEN, place ziplock in full warm sonic cleaner water tank. All the dirt and debris is contained in ziplock. Less of a mess. 👍👍
Thanks for helpful videos. Sonic cleaner tip: I place my parts in a 1qt ziplock with cleaner and water THEN place in water of sonic cleaner. Run as normal. No mess in my sonic cleaner😱😱
Another less costly source of citric acid is from the wine making or home brewing supply store. I followed your advice and tried FREEALL for cleaning carbon and powder residue. It works great, not perfect but great. Thanks for posting more good advise.
It only makes a difference when the carbon buildup causes the bullet to touch or disturbs the gas flow to the extent where it kicks the bullet around asymmetrically. How much carbon buildup is needed to cause that will vary from brake to brake based on their designs. I see loss of accuracy long before touching is possible, so I have to assume it is the gas path deviation that is most important.
I'm curious about how the additional carbon in/on a muzzle device causes a drop in accuracy. Is the weight of the carbon changing the barrel harmonics? Is the carbon changing the muzzle crown? Does the carbon create some sort of obstruction?
I haven't when the removal/re installation is done with precision. That is, assuming there isn't a huge mass of carbon in the brake before cleaning. Making the brake lighter will change POI.
Do u have an estimate for cleaning interval to maintain accuracy for .223 and 6mm creedmoor? I clean the bore a lot, like every 20 to 200 rds, but not the brake. I clean the brake more like 200 rds.
On my Dasher, the rate of carbon accretion varies with powder. I don't think 200 rounds is excessive between cleanings, but have no idea how far you can go before it becomes an issue for you.
Button rifled barrel vs single point cut barrel are quite different. Button rifle will be better off not cleaning until after you see accuracy fall off, which the majority of people never see. After every range trip just throw a patch of Kroil down it, a brush, and some dry patches. Don't go full on clean, or you will need 10-20 rounds to get the accuracy back, which is expensive and a waste. By the "light cleaning" I described, you can keep the rifle shooting great for 300+ rounds. I would then spend the time with a bore scope and clean it well. Shooting prairie dogs is a good way to really test all this, because you may go out and shoot 1000 rounds in a week!
@@winninginthewind thanks Keith and that was my thought. I truly appreciate the time and effort you make to share the your knowledge and enabling us to become better, thank you!
Since this is the first brake I've ever had, I don't have anything to compare it to in terms of performance. I do like the self timing feature. It allows me to take the brake off and put it back right where it was after cleaning.
With conventional (.5-2min) rifles there are dozens and dozens of tests showing that you are miles better off not cleaning, outside of the action. I'd be interesting to see if that's true with brakes too.
I hate to say it this way, but even a 2 MOA rifle can get worse. Hitting a lump of carbon after leaving the muzzle is a real bummer. On the other hand, the actual use of a 2 MOA hunting rifle typically won't build up much carbon during one's lifetime because it is fired so little.
@@RabbitSlayer48 True. But I've seen dozens of people take their rifles out clean them, after thousands of rounds, and suddenly their .5moa gun is grouping 2 minutes for the next 20-50 rounds. Honestly, I can't speak to the f-class or benchrest world where high end barrels, very frequent cleaning, and fouling shots are the norm (I'm getting into it so well see if I change my tune), but for 99% of rifle applications I have personally observed, and watched every single test I've seen online demonstrate, that it is fundamentally counterproductive. Love to see a torture session to session test with a b rifle on this channel, cost and time allowing of course.
I've never had one of my rifles shoot worse after cleaning apart from the first shot of two. But I've never had one get really really fouled before cleaning either.
Another option is to put the item into a sealed glass jar, filled with gasoline or kerosene. Then place the jar in an ultrasonic cleaner, filled with water. This is my way of cleaning muzzle brakes and AR bolts.
I clean my brake in the same stuff I clean my barrel with. I simply soak it in Free All while I'm cleaning the rest o the rifle. The days carbon simply falls off with Free All.
@rdsii64 - Great idea! Wish I had thought of it! Pinning this comment for the other viewers to learn from.
Hi, please let me know what "Free All" is? I also for cleaning the brake the same fluids I use for the barrel, for example the stuff from BoreTech or KG Industries - but "Free All"???
According to Area419, you don't want to use citrus products on nitrided parts as it'll give them a pink hue. They recommend cleaning often (every 200-400 rounds) by soaking in carbon remover and then brushing where needed. I'm betting a sonic cleaning machine would still speed that up (and maybe eliminate the brushing) just as it does with your stainless brake using your formula. Thank you!
I place my cleaning objects in a ziplock bag filled with my solution, THEN, place ziplock in full warm sonic cleaner water tank. All the dirt and debris is contained in ziplock. Less of a mess. 👍👍
That's a great idea!
Thanks brother! Your advice on Freeall saved me lots of elbow grease also
......but,....."ew ew that smell"......seems that is what the song was wrote about.....lol
Thanks for helpful videos.
Sonic cleaner tip: I place my parts in a 1qt ziplock with cleaner and water THEN place in water of sonic cleaner. Run as normal.
No mess in my sonic cleaner😱😱
Another less costly source of citric acid is from the wine making or home brewing supply store. I followed your advice and tried FREEALL for cleaning carbon and powder residue. It works great, not perfect but great. Thanks for posting more good advise.
Love the shirt. Thanks for the video. Be Safe
Thanks, I will give it a try!
Usually if one cleans their barrel the brake is cleaned as well, seeing how they are attached.
Hey bud. Good job last weekend. Great video. Plus with carbon it will take em out of tune for harmonics
I thought I was supposed to use Brake Cleaner. 😮
Would you explain why you would clean the muzzle device? Does it actually make a difference? New listener here. Thank you.
It only makes a difference when the carbon buildup causes the bullet to touch or disturbs the gas flow to the extent where it kicks the bullet around asymmetrically. How much carbon buildup is needed to cause that will vary from brake to brake based on their designs. I see loss of accuracy long before touching is possible, so I have to assume it is the gas path deviation that is most important.
@@winninginthewind highly impressive. Thank you. I did not realize this could happen.
I'm curious about how the additional carbon in/on a muzzle device causes a drop in accuracy. Is the weight of the carbon changing the barrel harmonics? Is the carbon changing the muzzle crown? Does the carbon create some sort of obstruction?
Nobody knows for sure. All three are possible. The end effect is a rifle that doesn't shoot well until the brake is cleaned.
Using your method, do the chemicals affect a stainless brake, (i.e.) change color of the stainless, etc.?
They haven't thus far on this brake.
Will citranox be ok to use on black nitride barrels and muzzle breaks ?
I don't know. I've never tried it.
Do you experience a POI shift from removing and reinstalling a self timing brake?
I haven't when the removal/re installation is done with precision. That is, assuming there isn't a huge mass of carbon in the brake before cleaning. Making the brake lighter will change POI.
Try a TMB muzzle brake
Do u have an estimate for cleaning interval to maintain accuracy for .223 and 6mm creedmoor? I clean the bore a lot, like every 20 to 200 rds, but not the brake. I clean the brake more like 200 rds.
On my Dasher, the rate of carbon accretion varies with powder. I don't think 200 rounds is excessive between cleanings, but have no idea how far you can go before it becomes an issue for you.
Button rifled barrel vs single point cut barrel are quite different. Button rifle will be better off not cleaning until after you see accuracy fall off, which the majority of people never see. After every range trip just throw a patch of Kroil down it, a brush, and some dry patches. Don't go full on clean, or you will need 10-20 rounds to get the accuracy back, which is expensive and a waste. By the "light cleaning" I described, you can keep the rifle shooting great for 300+ rounds. I would then spend the time with a bore scope and clean it well. Shooting prairie dogs is a good way to really test all this, because you may go out and shoot 1000 rounds in a week!
If substituting Leminshine for Citranox, would you use the same amount?
I don't have any here. I'd start small and build up.
@@winninginthewind thanks Keith and that was my thought. I truly appreciate the time and effort you make to share the your knowledge and enabling us to become better, thank you!
How do you like the brake
Since this is the first brake I've ever had, I don't have anything to compare it to in terms of performance. I do like the self timing feature. It allows me to take the brake off and put it back right where it was after cleaning.
With conventional (.5-2min) rifles there are dozens and dozens of tests showing that you are miles better off not cleaning, outside of the action. I'd be interesting to see if that's true with brakes too.
I hate to say it this way, but even a 2 MOA rifle can get worse. Hitting a lump of carbon after leaving the muzzle is a real bummer. On the other hand, the actual use of a 2 MOA hunting rifle typically won't build up much carbon during one's lifetime because it is fired so little.
Thats pretty much a PRS thing, where ultimate accuracy is not super important.
@@RabbitSlayer48 True. But I've seen dozens of people take their rifles out clean them, after thousands of rounds, and suddenly their .5moa gun is grouping 2 minutes for the next 20-50 rounds. Honestly, I can't speak to the f-class or benchrest world where high end barrels, very frequent cleaning, and fouling shots are the norm (I'm getting into it so well see if I change my tune), but for 99% of rifle applications I have personally observed, and watched every single test I've seen online demonstrate, that it is fundamentally counterproductive.
Love to see a torture session to session test with a b rifle on this channel, cost and time allowing of course.
I've never had one of my rifles shoot worse after cleaning apart from the first shot of two. But I've never had one get really really fouled before cleaning either.
🤔
Another option is to put the item into a sealed glass jar, filled with gasoline or kerosene. Then place the jar in an ultrasonic cleaner, filled with water.
This is my way of cleaning muzzle brakes and AR bolts.