The Anycubic Kobra 2 - The Little Speedster
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- Опубліковано 3 жов 2024
- This time we're checking out Anycubic's latest printer in the FDM range. Seems like a pretty standard bedslinger but it is hiding a secret!
⭐ The Kobra 2 is available at 3DJake from May 25th! ⭐
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I love the Kobra 2! Ive been playing with mine all week.
It's pretty nifty! :)
Isn't it a pain to change filament?
They most likely didn't put the filament atop the Z axis because, while it may feel sturdy at rest, moving at 200mm/s on a budget printer with a full spool on top may introduce a lot of vibration (back and forth of the bed aka Y axis). Therefore, they gave users the option (or reused the Kobra Neo top mount it seems) to mount atop the Z axis but designed it for side-mounting, hence the PTFE tube.
Personally, I'm not sure why people complain about the PTFE tube. For me I like the idea of my filament being directed to the extruder and it just feels less...cheap with exposed filament. Plus, less chance of dust/etc. on the filament.
Ah yeah I think you're probably right. Not really a problem though and it does have those advantages you mentioned, just wasn't sure why it was incorporated like that
Do you know what a pain it is to change the filament on the Kobra 2? It's ridiculous! They don't know what they're doing!
@@3DJake_Official how big is the actual printing square
Got the Kobra 2. There was a bit of issue with Z, but reading the friendly manual, and manually lowering the nozzle height worked. Turns out the Kobra 2 does a good job of adjusting the Z hight during auto leveling. So don’t try adjusting the Z height on the screen. Got a really good 30 minute Benchy.
Nice! I actually did have to adjust the z for the first print - they say it might be necessary after shipping but not always.
Now the z hight doesn’t work at all.
Mine comes in tomorrow, I'm so excited! I go way back to the Chiron, I also have the Kobra, Kobra Neo and now the Kobra 2!
The one big problem with Kobra 2 is it's non-standard Volcano nozzle... In fact, we should not say Volcano as it is not one.
A real deal breaker for us. We can't find suppliers for this weird type of nozzle so will probably end-up returning the multiple Kobra2 we purchased for our print farm.
YUP. CANT REPLACE NOZZLE. CANT REPLACE PRINTHEAD. DEAL BREAKER. THEY KNEW IT THOUGH.
I've read that swapping the heatbreak for one from a viper allowes one to use standard volcano nozzels. Can someone confirm that?
@@clockworkvanhellsing372 I recently resolved my issues with Anycubic products by selling all of their printers out of my shop.
I've had mine for about 6 weeks now and I really like it. Non standard nozzles want an issue since i was able to swap out the heartbreak with one i had on hand...i think it was for a cr6. But I'm using standard volcano nozzles with no issue. The only "issue" I've had is over extrusion but I'm assuming this is mostly to compensate for higher flow needed at higher speeds. E steps are calibrated and dead on but I have to reduce flow to 90%. The only changes Is like to see would be much more control options available in the firmware. The firmware and UI really is limited but i guess that's well suited for beginners. It's be nice if there was an advanced firmware option where the user could find time simple things like dark mode display and how much filament to extrude when loading. But for the $218 CAD I paid I really can't complain.
I like they left the tapped holes on top for options on mounting. New to the sport, my first printer was resin, haven’t done any filament work but this one looks like a great intro printer
That is cool but I still don't get why they moved the spool holder. It takes up so much more room on the desk. I'll probably use the inserts on top to mount a new spool holder and move the filament sensor to just below it.
But it is a great intro printer and I've been using it as my little workhorse for the last few weeks , printed lots of little stuff for the workshop.
@@3DJake_Official maybe the weight was given a torsion on the frame or something? Who knows, just ordered one though. Excited to check it out
Don't trust a shop when they didn't accept a refund of some printer with problems in z-axis also confirmed by elegoo!
Thanks for the tip it will help me out with my choice of printer
Buyers : be carefull. Printers that are sent to youtubers are well mount and configured. I've received mine and all axes are lose and z belt is about to fall of the axes. i'm going to modify all theses default and begin to test print in 2 or 3 days. But disapointed about this new printer
Theses reviews are clearly biased, got mine yesterday and it's garbage, not even close to my ender 3 !
The Z offset is completely f*cked and you can't event modify the steps on the machine.
Just have a look in a Kobra 2 community group, the big majority have problems
If you ordered from us please contact our customer support, they'll be able to help you with it :)
@@3DJake_Official FU JAKE- IVE BEEN TRYING FOREVER. ITS THIS SIMPLE JAKE- IF I DONT GET A REPLACEMENT HEAD (WHICH IM HAPPY TO PAY FOR) AND AT THIS POINT A SET OF 5(WHICH ILL PAY FOR) OR YOU REPLACE THE KOBRA 2 W SOMETHING THAT WORKS--IM GONNA BE WRECKING YOU GUYS UNTIL YOURE OUT OF BIZNESS. FOLLOW UA-cam NAME...SEE THE WORK IM PUTTING IN. I KNOW WHAT YOURE DOING WITH THE EMPLOYEES MASQUERADING AS CUSTOMERS.
Z hight adjustment on mine does not work.
really solid machine for the price, gotta cop
Is there a way to change filament mid print and i just didn't see it?
Filament is running out during a print, i press pause.
The only options are resume, stop and settings(only option is z-offset) and the filmanent is still stuck in the print head.
How can i change the filmanent or do i have to cancel the print and restart with a fresh spool?
I've had my Kobra 2 for almost a month now and it always ran great, but unfortunately nothing has worked for 5 days. Each print is a misprint and it cracks extremely when printing. Will send it in and have it exchanged for a new one. Too bad it didn't last long...
YUP. CANT REPLACE NOZZLE. CANT REPLACE PRINTHEAD. DEAL BREAKER. THEY KNEW IT THOUGH.
I was looking into buying this machine as my first ever 3d printer. Are there things I need to look out for, things I need to buy extra or be careful off? Very helpful review, thank you very much for the info!
It is pretty whole as a product. I haven't changed anything or need to buy anything extra (besides filament)
DONT BUY-PRINTS GREAT UNTIL NOZZLE/PRINHEAD JAMS. WHICH IT WILL-RAPIDLY. BUT I CANT BE REPLACED. THEY KNEW IT. THE COMPONENTS ARE GREAT-WIF I COULD REPLACE PRINTHEAD I WOULD KEEP IT. BUT THEY ALSO HID THE ISSUE-THEY R UNETHICALYUP. CANT REPLACE NOZZLE. CANT REPLACE PRINTHEAD. DEAL BREAKER. THEY KNEW IT THOUGH.
Read coments, not possibe to chance nozle
Great review! Today I am looking between Sovol SV06, Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro and AnyCubic Kobra 2. Which you think the best?
Hmmm tough call, the SV06 is cool because of its price but also it has an all metal hotend which the others do not. The Neptune 3 Pro has a great user interface on the touchscreen but actually besides that and the price I am not that huge on it. The Kobra 2 is the most expensive but it is by far the fastest and the quality is really nice, I like speed so I would choose that one, pity the user interface pales in comparison to the Neptune 3 Pro.
Waiting for the Kobra 2 Max 300mm x 300mm
I really liked the video. I want to buy a printer and I am between the kobra 2 and the ender 3 s, which of them would you recommend? which one will be better? What things would be better one against the other?
greetings
Kobra no diff
2 questions. 1. Im looking at getting the Mintion Beagle V2 camera for this exact printer and I dont know where I would need to plug it in and what kind of plug I would need to buy. 2. in the back of the printer near the center bottom there is a hole that says 115V and 230V. What is that hole for? Is that were I would need plug in the camera and what kind of plug would be needed for that? Thanks!
Where's the best place to get the start and end g code for the Anycubic Kobra 2 using Cura ?
Hi, what if I want to print silk pla? Silk normally requires slow speed, what would you recommend the speed (and temperature ) for printing silk PLAs on this printer ? Thank you
I actually never had to reduce speed for a silk filament. I use 220C for our own silk filament on the Kobra 2, normal is 215 but with the extra speed I bumped it a bit. No problems at all with it.
Dont trust a guy, who doesnt show the printer while printing..
like this? www.tiktok.com/@3djake_official/video/7237925099716857114?is_from_webapp=1&sender_device=pc
Still nothing man, rly
@@3DJake_Official Wow, not even close to a real print. I want to see the whole thing. This printer got no Inputshaping or any other vibration-compensation. Also there are people reporting scratching sounds while printing. On your German Site you promote an Ankermake printer with "TOP-SPEEDS". About the slow acceleration of this commercial no-go printer is nobody of you talking. Are you serious about such things and just have no clue or are you just trying to sell bad stuff? I dont know which of both would be worse...
@@ivanalex8266 ehhh the link?
@@rhotix403 whats a good starting printer? Was looking at this one and creality ender 3
Compared to the Kobra and it's cheap parts and out of the box issues, how does this compare?
I have been printing with it every day for the last few weeks, no issues at all, no clogs, no filament sensor jams, all at 200mm/s or more, it does underextrude over 250mm/s. The motion system and extruder are total redesigns and I can't really find anything wrong with the printer, there are some things I don't like such as what I mentioned in the video. Touchscreen is very sparse. spool holder positioning doesn't make much sense to me but no real problems. It feels very different to the original Kobra.
@3DJake_Official Thanks for that. My first printer was the Kobra standard, which I bought it just to see if I liked 3D printing. It prints well but has a lot of bugs with hardware and software.
Speed isn't really an issue for me, It's more reliability.
I haven't even had the standard for a year, probably done close to 100 prints, and it is just a sad machine. People keep telling me it's user error, but I doubt freezing mid print, freezing after a bed level and a MB fan with bad bearings out of the box are user error.
I'm mainly curious if they fixed everything. After my first experience, I am a bit turned off Anycubic but if they have improved I may be interested in upgrading to something reliable.
@@Quickshift_Racing Nah that doesn't sound like user error at all. Freezing up during a print often means an issue with the temperature sensors, a lot of the time that can happen with the bed, try printing without the bed on and see if that changes.
Honestly, if you want something reliable I wouldn't recommend a new printer that hasn't had long-term user review (at least several months), check out reviews for printers that have been around at least 6 months to see if they have stood the test of time.
DONT BUY. IMPRESSIVE FOR ONE MONTH, THEN -PRINTHEAD CANT BE REPLACED-BUT DEALING W THE COMPANY IS TERRIBLE. THEYRE SCAMMY. THEY HAVE GOOD TECH, BUT IF YOU DONT GET LUCKY YOURE TOTALLY FKED
I assume seeing as its not mentioned, that it uses Marlin firmware, and not Klipper? Can it do input shaping?
Another review mentioned while talking to AC rep they said it’s coming soon
Yep, source code coming soon from Anycubic. Pretty sure it is their own flavour of Marlin.
Is this the best printer for someone getting who wants to start ? Looking for a machine that prints a wide range of materials, speed is not important. About this price range
For a wide range, no not really, the hotend only goes up to 230C - You can print standard materials but higher grade filaments can't be printed with it. It is a good printer for beginners - very solidly built, easy to use and maintain but if you want to print something like nylon, carbon fibre, some kinds of ABS, PCTG, it is just not suitable.
Thinking about selling my ender 3 V2 and get me this one instead, it does seems like a nice upgrade and it saves me time
It is way faster, even if you upgrade the Ender 3 V2 to input shaping on Marlin or Klipper it is still faster, those u-wheel bearings make a difference.
@@3DJake_Official yeah, seems way better so I got myself one
nice!
can make a review for Kobra 2 pro plz, I heard is so fast and that make quality decreases, but i dont shure if that is corect or not, thanks for this amazing content 🤗❤❤❤
The video after the next one will go over the Kobra 2 Pro, it won't be a full review but I have been testing it for the last few weeks and the speed is really awesome, very solidly built printer too.
should i get a Kobra 2 or a Voxelab aquila x2
The Aquila X2 looks like pretty old tech. That said, I haven't used it so I couldn't say with certainty which trumps which. Still it looks like it has pretty old features
I have a kobra 2 max the fast speed annoys me because i get poor print quality, how much should i lower this or change it because Ive had this issue for months
This really depends on the filament you're using, even the PLA you might use, some filament is not cut out for high speed. A lot also comes down to the settings, you might need to tweak your pressure advance and also reduce the speed on the outer perimeters but keep high speed for everything else, also using the "print outer perimeters first" feature in a slicer really helps with high speed prints
I'm disabled and want to get into 3D printing, one of my main struggles is being able to find tune turning things to level beds. Does this do it automatically so I don't have to manually level? It isn't entirely possible given my conditions
Yes, the bed is entirely rigid, there are no levelling wheels with springs so when you're setting things up you need to let the printer do an automatic levelling and then an automatic z-offset check. The most manual thing you might need to do is check the z-offset with a piece of paper and adjust using the menu but no tightening or screwing in is necessary. I actually haven't had to do this with the printer yet but that is the most manual action you would need to perform with bed levelling.
Would you be willing to share your slicer profile, if you don't mind?
We actually just used the old Kobra profile from Cura 5.2.2 and changed the speed and acceleration settings, that's it
@@3DJake_Official what about retraction? as this is direct drive
After a week of using it i yet have to find a way to mount the spool holder because what the video doesn't show is the strain on the filament when the extruder is at hotbed level.
its mechanically impossible to mount the spool sideways otherwise.
you cant even flip and overhang the spool holder below, thats the only way it would work as advertised.
also tried z axis mount but 1kg filament+spool+vibrations is too much. crashed and almost killed the filament sensor on the way down.
I actually had some qualms at first about this too but after some use it is actually not as bad as I thought and I haven't had any issues. However, the process of changing spools after a run out is less than ideal
@@3DJake_Official Fair. Yes, niceley phrased.
I dont know why the Extruder moves to a position where the angle of the ptfe hose makes it impossible to pull it out completely but the angle to put it in is perfect for getting it out.
So you gotta Press "Filament out" so it snaps off from the extruder, then "stop", then press "filament in" so the extruder moves in a way you can actually pull the filament out and be fast enough to pull the filament out before the extruder drags it back in.
Sometimes gotta press out on the way to in again so it snaps out completely.
genius design.
@@aboveallaverage7895 Yeah they really didn't think that part through
Whats your print settings,I have the same printer.
We didn't change much at all, it's our basic PLA profile.
Can i ask, does the machine currently have Linear Advance, or Pressure Advance of any kind? I know you have mentioned that input shaping will eventually be coming, but i just want to know if there are currently options to minimise corner bulging.
Anycubic still haven't released their firmware source files so I can't say with certainty but I have noticed a bit of corner bulging when it comes to 90 degree turns so I think they have not enabled linear advance. We'll have to wait until the source comes out to see
Do you know of any 300 x 300 x 300mm machines size 3d printers?
Sure, loads, Neptune 4 Plus, Sovol SV06 Plus, Creality K1 Max, Voron 2.4 300, Sovol SV04, Sidewinder X3 and X4 Plus.
The only issue with some of these is that some of their dimensions go over 300mm so I don't know if you have any other recommendations?
@@jamescurtis1667 Hmm I think that's all we got in the shop right now. Oh and the Voron Trident, that comes in 300mm
Just any 300mm 3d printer will do
???
Can anyone in here help mw with some settings?
I have a kobra 2 neo
What settings i should use for first layer , max layer speed etc to get a overall good print and a decent fast one
Hi, I just got this printer. I am wondering 2 things: Can insert the filament (use the printer properly) without the long PTFE tube, just insert the filament directly? Second, is it possible to have the filament on top of the printer where the handle is? for instance is there a spool holder that can be screwed into the two holes on top? thank you
You wouldn't be able to use the filament sensor without the PTFE unless you moved it. Otherwise I don't think there would be issues. As for the spool holder yeah you could design one that fits the threaded inserts on top. Some people have said that the spool holder placement on the side is to reduce vibrations so it might not be the best idea to put it on top.
Was on your website are you based in Ireland buddy
Nope, we're based in Austria - I fell asleep in Dublin one night and when I woke up I was here 🤷
I'm having issues getting the software to work
what's the issue?
Can The Anycubic Kobra 2 printer work with PLA Sunlu and MIKA3d Filament?
For standard Sunlu PLA yep no problem although anything with fibres or glow in the dark materials it won't be suitable, it only has a brass nozzle so any abrasive materials are not suitable. Not familiar with MIKA3D filament but it seems like they only have regular PLA so it shouldn't be an issue.
@@3DJake_Official Truly appreciated. I’ve been going top to bottom for a few days of trying to find the right brand, lol. Thank you.
Is this a better choice or the Ender 3 v3 SE?
This would be better I think, it is considerably faster
I dont think soo. Ender 3 v3 IS better option
@@3DJake_Official No its slower. The V3 SE can go 250mm/s and actually print very well at that speed
@@antoniogomez3487 I agree
i think i bought kobra 2 neo from you like 3 days ago for like 172,32 USD
Does someone know how to get a cura profile for the kobra 2?
I just used the original Kobra profile and changed what was necessary.
Hello, have someone the dimensions oh thé shipping box?
I just set mine up. So far it's had two failed prints. It will stick okay but after a few levels it stops putting out filament. They did add 3 brackets that attach the cable to the bodem tube so you don't have to use those zip ties that make yours look cheap. But changing the filament is a real fiasco, nothing like the ease it is on my Prusa Mini or Kobra 1. And then they messed up and put the cable right in front of the filament spool. It just seems poorly designed and rushed to market, IMO. I think all they cared about was that it was super fast. And man, it is WAY too loud! I didn't even buy it for the speed, I actually bought it for better usb ports instead of dealing with a micro sd card, LOL! I'm going to try to send mine back. If I could get it to be direct injection like the old Kobra, cut the speed down (it literally vibrates the hell out of the desk it's on!), cut down the fan speed to a tolerable noise level, and put the spool on top I might think of keeping it.
That ain't right, please contact our customer service if the issue persists
@@3DJake_Official I figured it out. It was bad filament. Some other filament worked fine. Thanks. But I'd still like to know if you can run this direct without the Bowden tube?
@@joeking433 I have been wondering about that. I don't think it would be a problem although some people said that the positioning of the spool is to keep the center of gravity low and therefore the printer would be more stable hence it being on the side with the use of the reverse bowden. However, Anycubic have included threaded inserts on the top so I think you could just add a spool holder there so it goes smoothly directly into the extruder. You would have to reposition the filament sensor though.
Which type of nozzle fits the Kobra 2 ?
They use volcano nozzles
@@3DJake_Official Appreciate the information. Thank you!
@@3DJake_Official no it isn't , there's a recess in the top of the nozzle for the heartbreak , a standard volcano doesn't fit , pity you have to use anycubics own
@@3DJake_Official THATS A FUCKING LIE
DONT LISTEN TO @3DJAKE_OFFICIAL HES LYING AND HE KNOWS IT. IN FACT, THAT JUST DID IT, IM GOING AFTER ANYCUBIC . IM SO OFFENDED
Sorry but I have one Question right on the 2 minute mark: No double sided bed is not a big plus but... who the hell u are just to say " i don't like to clean my bed but just flip it over".... do you take your filament dirty side and just lay it on the magnetic sheet?
Every time :)