Awesome video guys, thank-you. I went all-in and got a local, reputable, spray-foam professional to do my garage four years ago, as part of the solution to the ice-boxes that were the two bedrooms above it in our zone 6 70's side-split. One of the best decisions we have made in terms of chipping away at the energy efficiency issues in this house, and the contractor has since become a trusted consultant for us on other insulation projects in the house. Really appreciated the discussion on froth packs and their uses as we are contemplating how to address some attic energy efficiency issues, specifically the areas in our lower level attic that attach to the bedroom and bathroom walls in the upper level of the house. Thanks to you guys for helping us come to the decision to put another call in to our local spray foam professional in the near future.
I work in roofing, which is open cell, and am a coatings chemist. The “comfort foams” like those focused on hear, is not my expertise but I know enough to be impressed with the professionalism seen here. They covered A-rich/B-rich, 24 wait, the learning curve on ratio’s, temperature and Spray technique including exotherm - really a strong safety presentation. Liked the answer on forth packs, I know the roofers aren’t big fans either. SPF is actually better than the R-value reflects as that is a material property. So when you compare bead board, iso, fiberglass for R-value that is not the system rating. The fact is the seamless and continuous nature or Spray foam makes it comparable, as installed system U value, to a much higher R -value if that system were fiberglass. To my knowledge industry hasn’t published this because we all ready are a value leader for R-value, so why get into the whole U-value thing. But, often we here it well exceeded expectations - and those customers are not wrong. This is a rare case of someone affordable being better than they say it is. On the thermal performance, we have R-value, air barrier and vapor barrier traits. Closed Cell SPF has all three in spades. It an underused technology, even today. The transport of moisture vapor carries a lot of heat out, and that why you can use vapor barrier paints on Gyp on wall upstairs to help energy efficiently - though that idea is best if you know the vapor drive is from inside to out. Most heat in old buildings is lost due to incomplete air barriers, even after fiberglass you can squill have lots of leakage. In general the SPF will bridge cracks and stay sealed for around 40 years (my building). The r-value eventually levels out to a lower level, esp if the climate is wet, but still at a high level. In specialized applications is where I get in and spec vapor barrier coatings and primers, like a meat locker. One think not exactly covered, but hinted at. SPF when it burns is really bad news. I think gyp over SPF for any bedroom is right, if I was remodeling I want to see egress even if the room isn’t officially a bedroom.
Been researching insulation options for varying locations in my home. This was the most straight-forwards- and informative of all I've watched on spray foam- thanks brochachos!
Great video with a wealth of good information. I already did my basement and didn't use spray foam. I used a floor to ceiling plastic barrier against the block sealed at the top and bottom with seams taped. I framed the wall about 1.5 inches out and then used fiberglass with another vapor barrier on the warm side of the wall. My basement is mostly below grade at the front and roughly half out in the back with full size windows and a walk out on one side. The basement used to be quite cold in the winter without the heat on. Generally 50 to 55 degrees. After finishing it and insulating it, the heat rarely turns on to keep it at 68 and doesn't drop below mid 60's just with the heat from the boiler running to heat the rest of the house. Good insulation and new windows & doors makes a massive difference in thermal efficiency and comfort. I'm thinking if I ever scratch enough money together for an addition over my garage I will have it spray foam insulated and maybe even re-do my attic.
26:09 "and that will help with the sound [brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr] ... ooh, sorry that's my compressor" [compressor kills it for 2.5 minutes more after they began talking about sound insulation... gotta love life.
An excellent, informative video! A follow-up or related video suggestion would be a discussion of Indoor Air Quality to address the issues when the air changes per hour are reduced per the energy code requirements. HRV’S, ERV’S , CFM bath and kitchen exhausts - lots of other information for future videos.
I used 2” rigid sheets on my interior basement walls, taped the seams and used tapcon screws to fastened 1x3’s to the walls. Outlet boxes were notched into the into the sheets but not through them. The cost savings vs spray on was substantial, as well as the savings on lumber to frame the walls, and the 1x’s don’t touch the concrete anywhere (1/4” off the floor). Also, the drywall is closer to the foundation giving more floor space, 3.25” vs 5”.
Yes we are closed cell, i fact at current code req. we are a vapor barrier. Don’t know how I typed that roofing was open, but closed pretty common interior
I think comfort is something that gets overlooked a lot when it comes to insulation. Sure you’re going to save money on your utility bills, that’s a given. But who wants to get out of bed when the house is cold, or who wants a walk on the cold floors. Plus don’t you want to be able to use your basement for movies and games? Or just to be able to send the kids down there to have some peace and quiet and the rest of the house. It’s a shame how some companies do such a poor job of insulation(at least that’s been my experience)!
I’ve still never seen spray insulation used domestically here in the Uk, I think there are companies offering it so someone must be using it but I’ve only ever seen it in large industrial units
Great video. Any recommendations for insulating a steel garage structure (steel frame, steel walls and roof)? Hot California climate and don't want my workshop noise to bother the neighbors too much (so, need insulation and sound reduction). Thanks
Concrete wall needs air barrier not vapor barrier and needs damp/waterproof from outside. You can use open cell in a basement if vapor barrier installed on floor. Unless you in a flood zone open cell is an option.
Open cell can be used in a perfect world but what if a vapor or air barrier fail and you have open cell installed? I use closed cell 100% of the time to eliminate the potential for future issues. In our climate zone moisture travel is a huge concern. The dew point in the open cell is not a good thing especially in a basement. I also wont install it anywhere without a vapor barrier. We have done repairs on roof with 12.5" of open cell without a vapor barrier. In conclusion I run my company like Im working on my own home. I use the best so I don't have issues long term.
@frankmbood2253 I just framed in the roof to my addition, and I was looking for info on which is the best foam to use on the roof rafters, I think I will go with closed cell!!
Awesome video, tons of info.That is what I worry about when I want to do the spray foam. Don't want my family to have respiratory problems when spraying. Did I hear you guys are in the New England area? I am looking to spray my attic and my 2 door garage.
Guy on a right is good shit talker. Knows how make easy stuff look difficult. He calles Closed cell a thermal barrier. Open cell product would never be able to defuse so much vapor through the roof to condense on a outside to create ice dam. You need air leack for that. SOME misleading info in a video. Personally installed and still do Open cell for over 15 years now and not one job ever failed. Not one roof or wall. We spray houses built without zip system or else airsealing with only open cell down to 0.5 ACH 50.
Question.. my home was built in 96 and there isn't much of a sound barrier between the downstairs master bedroom and upstairs. I hear everything! How invasive is it to have maybe a spray foam put in? Can small holes be made or does all the dry wall on the ceil need to be removed?
I have a cabin that is on stilts, with parts of it very close to the ground to be crawling underneath. It was never insulated. Any ideas on how to insulate it? I was thinking of using a spray foam even though it will be a challenge possibly involving digging to get enough room.
You can do a couple options. Fill the bays with something like rockwool, fiberglass, open cell, or dense packed cellulose. Then install rigid foam boards of 1" or 2" over the bottom of the floor joist. Tape or foam the seams. Spray closed cell spray foam over the subfloor and rim joist, or just use 2" rigid foam over the bottom of the floor joist and seal it with foam or tape. You can take washers and 3" screws to hold it on.
I’m no contractor, but I’m not new to this, in fact the lineage of the company I used to work for have a lot to do with why these products even exist. It’s pretty much blood-borne at this point. I like to see the kind of professionalism shown buy these guys, nothing a guy like me invents, or our company makes, goes anywhere without guys this this elevating their craft.
Question: On an Existing house, Is there any way that you can fill the cavity between the Brick of a house and the framing of the house. I have a 70's house and there about 3 1/2" gap there. It would be nice to just remove a upper brick every say 12 - 15 feet and fill the gap. Is that possible? And then I can just put the brick back and have the exterior wall all nice and insulated!
Is it possible to do closed cell you yourself? I’ve seen the kits available for like 1,500. I need closed cell for my exterior walls. 1100 square feet. The estimates I’ve got are like 5500-6500.
Would it be wise to seal off basement walls if you you concrete block walls are not filled in? I ask become I work as a commerical/industrial electrician and I have asked about this. They say it is about 20%-30% more to have concrete blocks filled with concrete so you have a solid, heatproof wall. What happens if you get cracks in your wall and now have leaks, it will eventually get in right?!? They what?
Closed cell Spray Foam will stop many leaks but its not designed for that - its best to control water sources, run off, waterproofing, and grade issues first.
I might agreed in the dry West Coast, but everywhere else you can have extreme temp changes day to day or hour by hour. You need to be able to adjust your spray pressure and maybe even heat the liquid during a job. Froth paks can't do that. There is a reason some contractors roll up with a 100k truck kit and others bring a Harbor Freight compressor.
Are you serious what do you think I’m a professional recording company I’m a contractor that does videos, In my workshop, for my subscribers. Get a life
Awesome video guys, thank-you. I went all-in and got a local, reputable, spray-foam professional to do my garage four years ago, as part of the solution to the ice-boxes that were the two bedrooms above it in our zone 6 70's side-split. One of the best decisions we have made in terms of chipping away at the energy efficiency issues in this house, and the contractor has since become a trusted consultant for us on other insulation projects in the house.
Really appreciated the discussion on froth packs and their uses as we are contemplating how to address some attic energy efficiency issues, specifically the areas in our lower level attic that attach to the bedroom and bathroom walls in the upper level of the house. Thanks to you guys for helping us come to the decision to put another call in to our local spray foam professional in the near future.
I work in roofing, which is open cell, and am a coatings chemist. The “comfort foams” like those focused on hear, is not my expertise but I know enough to be impressed with the professionalism seen here. They covered A-rich/B-rich, 24 wait, the learning curve on ratio’s, temperature and Spray technique including exotherm - really a strong safety presentation. Liked the answer on forth packs, I know the roofers aren’t big fans either.
SPF is actually better than the R-value reflects as that is a material property. So when you compare bead board, iso, fiberglass for R-value that is not the system rating. The fact is the seamless and continuous nature or Spray foam makes it comparable, as installed system U value, to a much higher R -value if that system were fiberglass. To my knowledge industry hasn’t published this because we all ready are a value leader for R-value, so why get into the whole U-value thing. But, often we here it well exceeded expectations - and those customers are not wrong. This is a rare case of someone affordable being better than they say it is.
On the thermal performance, we have R-value, air barrier and vapor barrier traits. Closed Cell SPF has all three in spades. It an underused technology, even today. The transport of moisture vapor carries a lot of heat out, and that why you can use vapor barrier paints on Gyp on wall upstairs to help energy efficiently - though that idea is best if you know the vapor drive is from inside to out. Most heat in old buildings is lost due to incomplete air barriers, even after fiberglass you can squill have lots of leakage. In general the SPF will bridge cracks and stay sealed for around 40 years (my building). The r-value eventually levels out to a lower level, esp if the climate is wet, but still at a high level. In specialized applications is where I get in and spec vapor barrier coatings and primers, like a meat locker.
One think not exactly covered, but hinted at. SPF when it burns is really bad news. I think gyp over SPF for any bedroom is right, if I was remodeling I want to see egress even if the room isn’t officially a bedroom.
Open cell roofing? Do tell.
Been researching insulation options for varying locations in my home. This was the most straight-forwards- and informative of all I've watched on spray foam- thanks brochachos!
glad it helped
Great video with a wealth of good information. I already did my basement and didn't use spray foam. I used a floor to ceiling plastic barrier against the block sealed at the top and bottom with seams taped. I framed the wall about 1.5 inches out and then used fiberglass with another vapor barrier on the warm side of the wall. My basement is mostly below grade at the front and roughly half out in the back with full size windows and a walk out on one side. The basement used to be quite cold in the winter without the heat on. Generally 50 to 55 degrees. After finishing it and insulating it, the heat rarely turns on to keep it at 68 and doesn't drop below mid 60's just with the heat from the boiler running to heat the rest of the house. Good insulation and new windows & doors makes a massive difference in thermal efficiency and comfort. I'm thinking if I ever scratch enough money together for an addition over my garage I will have it spray foam insulated and maybe even re-do my attic.
26:09 "and that will help with the sound [brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr] ... ooh, sorry that's my compressor" [compressor kills it for 2.5 minutes more after they began talking about sound insulation... gotta love life.
It’s amazing how much you can do with 2 pallets of great stuff
An excellent, informative video! A follow-up or related video suggestion would be a discussion of Indoor Air Quality to address the issues when the air changes per hour are reduced per the energy code requirements. HRV’S, ERV’S , CFM bath and kitchen exhausts - lots of other information for future videos.
I used 2” rigid sheets on my interior basement walls, taped the seams and used tapcon screws to fastened 1x3’s to the walls. Outlet boxes were notched into the into the sheets but not through them. The cost savings vs spray on was substantial, as well as the savings on lumber to frame the walls, and the 1x’s don’t touch the concrete anywhere (1/4” off the floor). Also, the drywall is closer to the foundation giving more floor space, 3.25” vs 5”.
Just curious, does this method satisfy building code requirements?
Worth the time to pay attention. Great proffessional advice.
Yes we are closed cell, i fact at current code req. we are a vapor barrier. Don’t know how I typed that roofing was open, but closed pretty common interior
STC ( sound transmission class) of open cell is same as fiberglass batt and its around 38 in 2x4 wall with 3/8 sheeting.
We were discussing the products not the assembly.
www.controlnoise.com/support-tools/about-sound-waves/sound-transmission-coefficient/
I think comfort is something that gets overlooked a lot when it comes to insulation. Sure you’re going to save money on your utility bills, that’s a given. But who wants to get out of bed when the house is cold, or who wants a walk on the cold floors. Plus don’t you want to be able to use your basement for movies and games? Or just to be able to send the kids down there to have some peace and quiet and the rest of the house. It’s a shame how some companies do such a poor job of insulation(at least that’s been my experience)!
Outstanding content! As expected.
Very educational video, thanks for that.
I’ve still never seen spray insulation used domestically here in the Uk, I think there are companies offering it so someone must be using it but I’ve only ever seen it in large industrial units
Great video. Any recommendations for insulating a steel garage structure (steel frame, steel walls and roof)? Hot California climate and don't want my workshop noise to bother the neighbors too much (so, need insulation and sound reduction). Thanks
Concrete wall needs air barrier not vapor barrier and needs damp/waterproof from outside. You can use open cell in a basement if vapor barrier installed on floor. Unless you in a flood zone open cell is an option.
Thanks for the info
Open cell can be used in a perfect world but what if a vapor or air barrier fail and you have open cell installed? I use closed cell 100% of the time to eliminate the potential for future issues. In our climate zone moisture travel is a huge concern. The dew point in the open cell is not a good thing especially in a basement. I also wont install it anywhere without a vapor barrier. We have done repairs on roof with 12.5" of open cell without a vapor barrier. In conclusion I run my company like Im working on my own home. I use the best so I don't have issues long term.
@frankmbood2253 I just framed in the roof to my addition, and I was looking for info on which is the best foam to use on the roof rafters, I think I will go with closed cell!!
Dow froth kits are not that bad. I have used them with 100% success. I'm sure you have as well.
Awesome video, tons of info.That is what I worry about when I want to do the spray foam. Don't want my family to have respiratory problems when spraying.
Did I hear you guys are in the New England area? I am looking to spray my attic and my 2 door garage.
Guy on a right is good shit talker. Knows how make easy stuff look difficult.
He calles Closed cell a thermal barrier.
Open cell product would never be able to defuse so much vapor through the roof to condense on a outside to create ice dam. You need air leack for that. SOME misleading info in a video. Personally installed and still do Open cell for over 15 years now and not one job ever failed. Not one roof or wall. We spray houses built without zip system or else airsealing with only open cell down to 0.5 ACH 50.
Question.. my home was built in 96 and there isn't much of a sound barrier between the downstairs master bedroom and upstairs. I hear everything! How invasive is it to have maybe a spray foam put in? Can small holes be made or does all the dry wall on the ceil need to be removed?
I have a cabin that is on stilts, with parts of it very close to the ground to be crawling underneath. It was never insulated. Any ideas on how to insulate it? I was thinking of using a spray foam even though it will be a challenge possibly involving digging to get enough room.
You can do a couple options. Fill the bays with something like rockwool, fiberglass, open cell, or dense packed cellulose. Then install rigid foam boards of 1" or 2" over the bottom of the floor joist. Tape or foam the seams.
Spray closed cell spray foam over the subfloor and rim joist, or just use 2" rigid foam over the bottom of the floor joist and seal it with foam or tape. You can take washers and 3" screws to hold it on.
Heartland Heritage Farm start digging
What is better for a ship container? Close or open cell?
If you didn't learn anything from this video, then you're one smart son-of-a gun!!
I’m no contractor, but I’m not new to this, in fact the lineage of the company I used to work for have a lot to do with why these products even exist. It’s pretty much blood-borne at this point. I like to see the kind of professionalism shown buy these guys, nothing a guy like me invents, or our company makes, goes anywhere without guys this this elevating their craft.
Question: On an Existing house, Is there any way that you can fill the cavity between the Brick of a house and the framing of the house. I have a 70's house and there about 3 1/2" gap there. It would be nice to just remove a upper brick every say 12 - 15 feet and fill the gap. Is that possible? And then I can just put the brick back and have the exterior wall all nice and insulated!
James Chupp 3-1/2” gap?? Thats huge id figure out what happened and fill it with brick/ masonry
I'm looking into a spray foam for a Skoolie. Would you recommend open or closed cell?
Were there any fittings in that BIP you buried??
How much difference in cost roughly for a new 4000 sq foot home is the difference in price using foam over insulation ?
Double ++
Easily 2X maybe more
You didn’t mention that open cell is cheaper per s.f. and highly flammable where closed cell isn’t and acts as it’s own vapor barrier.
Close cell is flammable too. Dont fool yourself.
On a metal garage ceiling open cell or closed cell?
Chris Oliver always closed if you can afford it
Is it possible to do closed cell you yourself? I’ve seen the kits available for like 1,500. I need closed cell for my exterior walls. 1100 square feet. The estimates I’ve got are like 5500-6500.
D Solo ua-cam.com/video/KzXk50rQeq4/v-deo.html watch this
A Concord Carpenter / ToolBoxBuzz thanks brother!!! I can do this!!! Much appreciated!
D Solo I have been getting prices of about .80-1.20 per board foot which is 12”x12”x1”.
Monolithic is my name in the sheets
Would it be wise to seal off basement walls if you you concrete block walls are not filled in? I ask become I work as a commerical/industrial electrician and I have asked about this. They say it is about 20%-30% more to have concrete blocks filled with concrete so you have a solid, heatproof wall. What happens if you get cracks in your wall and now have leaks, it will eventually get in right?!? They what?
Closed cell Spray Foam will stop many leaks but its not designed for that - its best to control water sources, run off, waterproofing, and grade issues first.
@@ConcordCarpenter and that gets very expensive considering sooo many didnt do it to their homes when they were built.
Installer in a video doesn't have good round pattern.
oh stop it! Not everyone is as good as you ;)
These guys are trying very hard to scare people.... This can be done by anyone.......
I might agreed in the dry West Coast, but everywhere else you can have extreme temp changes day to day or hour by hour. You need to be able to adjust your spray pressure and maybe even heat the liquid during a job. Froth paks can't do that. There is a reason some contractors roll up with a 100k truck kit and others bring a Harbor Freight compressor.
Chemicals
Its Plastic when installed properly
@@Bostonski agreed
RTÉ
A very unprofessional video with that compressor turning on in the middle of the recording.
Are you serious what do you think I’m a professional recording company I’m a contractor that does videos, In my workshop, for my subscribers. Get a life