Thanks from all of us QS138 owners for such a quality and detailed video! I have disassembled QS120 and QS138 before, so some little tips if you are do it to a healthy motor and then reassemble it back without a damage: Unscrew the hall magnet plate before taking the rear cover off. It is not shown in this video because it is between the two rear covers behind the hall sensor pcb. Mark the rear cover position over the casing so you can correctly position the hall sensors during reassembly. The easy way to take out the rotor is to secure it in the vice and just pull the stator away by hands with one quick motion. If you can not do it completely in one motion, it can damage the stator windings because the shaft end will try to stick to one side of the stator. If you plan to replace the shaft (you can get spares from QS), it is not easy to pull the shaft from the rotor. It is glued with permanent threadlock and you need to heat it up before pulling the rotor.
@@GaiusGarage would it be possible to convert this type of motor into a variable magnetic field motor. The rotor seems a bit hard to press back and forth. I was thinking about reducing the torque for regenerative braking. hydrogenerator from a boat propeller in reverse, maybe with some flywheels and gears to help.
seriously impressed! I have a qs13870h V3 and this is the first insight I've had into getting at the hall sensors in the 138 motors. excellent content amigo ;) thank you!
Dropping by just to say thanks a bunch for this teardown! I'm using the QS138 on a PhD project, didn't want to tear down my brand new motor just yet :)
@@GaiusGarage Its mostly about real-time torque ripple reduction under different speeds, loads and no. of motors, and I'm trying to achieve that solely through control, so no structural changes to the motor itself. I'm still reviewing literature and prepping for FEA (hence my gratitude for the teardown :)
@@GaiusGarage Absolutely! Good luck with the ebike builds too, the Fardrivers are notoriously hard to tune (spent a month wrangling my 72360 for a 14kW, 9kWh moped build) but work like a dream once tamed.
Rewinding can seem and look daunting but just making notes as you disassemble helps and winding coils is easy. Just count the number of winds on the original coils. I've done it. It isn't so difficult.
I have one small correction, because you keep switching the terms: The STATor is STATionary, and the ROTor is ROTational If you're ever wondering which you are looking at just look at the beginning of the word! Very easy. Otherwise very useful and informative video. Thank you!
Great video. If you leave out the soldering issues, the motor actually looks really well built for its price. Two questions: Did you ever count the conductors per slot and/or the turns in series/parallel. And secondly did you analyze the phase distribution before cutting the winding? For 12slots/10poles there should be two coils of one phase in two neighboring slots. Maybe that's why there was a problem with the software saying 4 rmf poles when it's actually just 2?
Wow. This was very informative. Thank you for showing us this. Do you mind measuring the rotor diameter with your calipers just so I can compare with a different brand of motor? Thanks
Very interesting and useful! I have a qs180 incoming and will for sure check the lugs. Probably I will cut the 30mm2 phase wires and replace/enhance them with 95mm2 wires. I’m finding it difficult to understand why the bad connection of the p-wire lugs would overheat the coils inside the motor. I can understand that the p-wire lead into the motor would overheat when only a few strings are actually connected to the controller. But after the splitting of the phase wires inside the motor, into two parallel strings, twisted and connected with solder, every string should carry current. So then it is not logical to me why the phase wires inside the motor itself would also overheat. Maybe there was a problem with the controller after all and the ‘firing’ of the phases was not timed correctly? It seems weird that it would fail this way, just because of some poor connection at the lugs?
I must have missed something here. The hall board had some pretty small TO-92 halls that do not appear long enough to get close to the rotors diameter (where the magnets focus their energy). Was there a second magnet source?
Do you still have these motor parts? Are you able to remove the nut on the back of the motor shaft and see if the shaft will come out of the rotor? I am wondering if swapping shafts would be easy or not. thinking of having a custom shaft made for a project.
Thank you! I actually don't know the KV of this motor off-hand. But since this is a PMSM AC motor the KV would be expressed in terms of frequency per voltage applied. so the formula is RPM/60 = frequency, and KV = frequency / voltage
Hi, I found your video very interesting. I hope you are still around because I need to ask you something, I have a faulty hall sensor and need to replace it... only 1 place I found was on Alipress, I think is not possible that I am the only person that have a faulty hall sensor. THX
@@GaiusGarage It appears to be a 22 or 23AWG. By 50 turns per coil I think you meant 50 strands, right? If so, that would roughly equal a 6AWG wire, which is the same thickness of a Sur Ron phase wire.
@@VictorFainello 50 turns per coil in the stator so yes, 50 strands per coil but the phase wires were comprised of two coils so 100 strands total in the phase wires - they are 4AWG
How much RPM can produce this motor in star connection and delta connection with 48v? In delta it should give more RPM and need to handle more current (need more thick wire)
I gave up on re-winding it. too much work when I can just sell the sell the rotor and stator for parts and put the proceeds towards a new motor, which is what I ended up doing
Good stuff, great vid, thanks. Do you know the difference between the 90H and the 70H? My guess is it is a bigger motor but I don't know that and in trying to look at specs it can be hard to get the same info on the same motor in 2 different places. Also, what controller were you running it with?
I honestly dont know what the "H" in 90 & 70 refer to. If I had to guess it would be related to the KV value of the motor..the rate at which it turn per volt. This is probably why the 70H often comes with a gearbox. The controller I was using is the Fardriver ND96530 - but I dont particularly recommend it mostly because the app and/or PC software to program it is total garbage. constant bugs that wont allow you to dial in the settings and support is shit
@@GaiusGarage I found what the name all means, 138 is the diameter of the rotor and 70 is the width of the magnets. So a 138 90H has magnets 20mm longer that in turn would mean the rotor is longer also. that is the way I understood it all and it makes perfect sense. I also saw that it looks as though they are either building or working on a 138 90H with gear reduction built in. Given the motor being at least 20mm wider I'm thinking it might be better to built with a jackshaft so the motor can be centered in the frame. I'm not yet building so that is just a guess.
@@jamieforrester7108 I dont think there is any way to know ahead of time but I did use a difference vendor for the new motor. Official Siacosys store on Aliexpress seems to be legit. I added the vendor who sold me the faulty motor to the description
@@GaiusGarage Thanks for sharing. Isn't that the official QC motors shop on Aliexpress? And wouldn't the terminal be mounted by the producer, directly in the factory, and has nothing to do with the vendor?
@@matickovac I don't think so - there are a bunch of these clone shops on Aliexpress and there are a few different "QS motor" websites -- I don't know if they're all affiliated or if it's branding. I *think* Siacosys is who actually develops (and manufactures??) these motors then they resell them to various vendors. But I suspect they sell them without the terminals crimped. The other motor I got from Siacossys was crimped correctly. but I'm really not sure how it works
This is second case when I see one of these motors burned up like this . To prevent this from happening again I would suggest pot the motor with special heat conductive motor potting compound after re-winding it . Here's a very good example of what happens inside the motor with windings when it operates .. The windings rub up against each other .. ua-cam.com/video/lPNU2vniUIc/v-deo.html
very interesting! thank you for the link. the new motor I have barely heats up even when riding aggressively. I think in this case, crimping the lugs onto enamel was the primary cause of the fire
My engine also burned out, only the qs 138 70h model, the copper winding was replaced and everything is ok, but it overheats at low current, e.g. 150A, and the previous qs 138 50h did not heat up so much and was much weaker. The driver is FAR ND72530. I'm afraid that during the combustion the magnets may have lost their power and therefore the motor draws more A than it should, e.g. when it accelerates. If it's not the fault of the magnets, what could it be overheating from? I would be very grateful for help. Regards and have a nice day
@@GaiusGarage Hello friend thank you for your answer, and this driver with this engine works well for you? I don't know if it's not the driver's fault, I want to try votola em150 or 200.
@@Adrian-hw1no actually, I am very much unsatisfied with the Fardriver controller. Price is good and it does work, but app is garbage making good programming virtually impossible. documentation is inexplicable, and support is useless. I would use this only if you are on a budget. Many better options out there. I plan to make a video on why this controller sucks in the near future
@@Adrian-hw1no just depends on your budget. Kelly controllers are pretty good. BAC4000 and BAC8000 are great but more expensive. The EBMX X9000 looks really awesome but price is too much. Then there's the Votol controllers, which I think are made by the same company as Fardriver..I don't really have an experience with them. The bottom line is that all of the common controllers on the market will do a good job, if you can program them correctly. Unfortunately, these Chinese companies don't put seem to put very much effort into build intuitive and robust software or good English documentation
So I had a ebike motor and Il couldn't figure out the hall sensors wires so I just deleted them all and I never saw a difference in performance or speed control am I gunna end up destroying something
you probably have a BLDC motor (as opposed to sinosoidal AC, like this QS138) or what you removed was not a hall sensor. the hall sensor tell the controller when to switch phases - it's like your brain reading the position of your legs to tell you when to switch for walking. if you did not know where your legs were at any given moment, you would not be able to coordinate a stride
@@dilanmontgomery5505 no problem! BLDC motor are more simple and just require a speed controller that switches the three phases at some rate - you don't need any other components, although you often have an additional signal wire that let's you increase or decrease that rate. With sinusoidal AC motors, the motor controller needs to know the position of the rotor relative to the stator and adjust the amplutide of the three phases accordingly. a hall sensor is one way to read the motor position, a sinusoidal encoder is another common one..probably some other techniques as well
That's not how you remove windings. You had to find one of the phases and remove all stops which in tje middle of stator teeth , then you un-wind the motir and see how it's wound . This way you also see how many turks there are . Now you will have difficult time figuring out how it was wound ..
yeah no kidding lol. this was my original plan but it just seemed impossible to pull an individual winding out of a slot. I forgot to count the turns for the video but I can still do this from the windings that I pulled out. I probably will not attempt to rewind this motor, just seems like alot of tedious work and I'd prob screw it up anyway - lose count of turns, etc. plus, like I mentioned, there's some evident damages to the stator laminate so not even sure it's viable to do. will probably just sell for parts or turn into an art piece
нет пропитки лаком, нет изоляции лобовых частей обмоток. При работе мотора провода немного вибрируют, протирается лаковая изоляция и происходит замыкание
Thanks from all of us QS138 owners for such a quality and detailed video!
I have disassembled QS120 and QS138 before, so some little tips if you are do it to a healthy motor and then reassemble it back without a damage:
Unscrew the hall magnet plate before taking the rear cover off. It is not shown in this video because it is between the two rear covers behind the hall sensor pcb.
Mark the rear cover position over the casing so you can correctly position the hall sensors during reassembly.
The easy way to take out the rotor is to secure it in the vice and just pull the stator away by hands with one quick motion. If you can not do it completely in one motion, it can damage the stator windings because the shaft end will try to stick to one side of the stator.
If you plan to replace the shaft (you can get spares from QS), it is not easy to pull the shaft from the rotor. It is glued with permanent threadlock and you need to heat it up before pulling the rotor.
This was my hope & very good tips! Thank you!!
If you heat the shaft up it will permanently damage the magnets!
@@GaiusGarage would it be possible to convert this type of motor into a variable magnetic field motor. The rotor seems a bit hard to press back and forth. I was thinking about reducing the torque for regenerative braking. hydrogenerator from a boat propeller in reverse, maybe with some flywheels and gears to help.
seriously impressed! I have a qs13870h V3 and this is the first insight I've had into getting at the hall sensors in the 138 motors. excellent content amigo
;) thank you!
That’s pretty cool trick with the magnet in your hand to count the poles
Dropping by just to say thanks a bunch for this teardown! I'm using the QS138 on a PhD project, didn't want to tear down my brand new motor just yet :)
much appreciated! glad it's helpful. What's your PhD project covering?
@@GaiusGarage Its mostly about real-time torque ripple reduction under different speeds, loads and no. of motors, and I'm trying to achieve that solely through control, so no structural changes to the motor itself. I'm still reviewing literature and prepping for FEA (hence my gratitude for the teardown :)
@@mrkelkel11 Ah interesting! Would definitely love to read the dissertation once completed!
@@GaiusGarage Absolutely! Good luck with the ebike builds too, the Fardrivers are notoriously hard to tune (spent a month wrangling my 72360 for a 14kW, 9kWh moped build) but work like a dream once tamed.
Rewinding can seem and look daunting but just making notes as you disassemble helps and winding coils is easy. Just count the number of winds on the original coils. I've done it. It isn't so difficult.
Wow that's incredible figuring the magnet positions so simple but smart
Brilliant vid, I dont even have these motors, but couldnt stop watching, I bet they are all pretty similar.
Thank you! actually a good deal of variation in terms of design between definitely popular EV motors
Very good job man very interesting and like I said the controller had nothing to do with that fire in the motor nicely done
I have one small correction, because you keep switching the terms:
The STATor is STATionary, and the ROTor is ROTational
If you're ever wondering which you are looking at just look at the beginning of the word! Very easy.
Otherwise very useful and informative video. Thank you!
I may have misspoken somewhere - correct, the rotor is the thing with the magents that rotates inside the stator with the coils. Thank you!
beautiful technology, thanks, I learned a lot about this motor
Very informative video, thank you! Would be interesting to get a clearer view of the magnets and laminates in the rotor.
Thanks for doing the work for us!
Awesome video brother!! Keep doing it bro!
Great video. If you leave out the soldering issues, the motor actually looks really well built for its price.
Two questions: Did you ever count the conductors per slot and/or the turns in series/parallel.
And secondly did you analyze the phase distribution before cutting the winding? For 12slots/10poles there should be two coils of one phase in two neighboring slots. Maybe that's why there was a problem with the software saying 4 rmf poles when it's actually just 2?
Thank you so much brother ❤
Wow. This was very informative. Thank you for showing us this. Do you mind measuring the rotor diameter with your calipers just so I can compare with a different brand of motor? Thanks
The rotor is 84.85mm in diameter
It is curious to see that if they soldered well inside the motor but not in the terminals, the terminals must be soldered, very good analysis.
I think maybe the motor was manufactured by one party then shipped without the terminal lugs to a reseller. just my guess
Very interesting and useful! I have a qs180 incoming and will for sure check the lugs. Probably I will cut the 30mm2 phase wires and replace/enhance them with 95mm2 wires.
I’m finding it difficult to understand why the bad connection of the p-wire lugs would overheat the coils inside the motor. I can understand that the p-wire lead into the motor would overheat when only a few strings are actually connected to the controller. But after the splitting of the phase wires inside the motor, into two parallel strings, twisted and connected with solder, every string should carry current. So then it is not logical to me why the phase wires inside the motor itself would also overheat.
Maybe there was a problem with the controller after all and the ‘firing’ of the phases was not timed correctly? It seems weird that it would fail this way, just because of some poor connection at the lugs?
I must have missed something here. The hall board had some pretty small TO-92 halls that do not appear long enough to get close to the rotors diameter (where the magnets focus their energy). Was there a second magnet source?
The bad cables with the lugs also had no weather sealing at all.
Great knowledge shared here!
If you want to remove the rear cover, first you pull out the shaft carefully on a vise. That way you can remove the shaft on the cover easier
Thanks for your great effort
Do you still have these motor parts? Are you able to remove the nut on the back of the motor shaft and see if the shaft will come out of the rotor? I am wondering if swapping shafts would be easy or not. thinking of having a custom shaft made for a project.
How did you end up getting the pulley off? I’ve tried an impact gun, but the only thing I’m moving is the skirts of the pulley…
Are you going to rewind it? Would be hella interesting, maybe this time in a delta configuration instead of a star config
Thank you for this video ❤️
Too bad you burnt your motor but this was a very interesting and informative video! Kudos!
this motor easily rewind if he understand the winding data otherwise stator are fine
Do the screws for the shock mount go into the main housing?
My favorite so far. Hey, what do you use as your phase wire termination block on you swingarm? (Bomber)
I just used one of those blocks that come with certain ebike kits. not really sure what the proper name is
Excelente! Sou do Brasil!
Is it possible to disassembly main shaft from The rotor?
Great video! thanks for taechning me about the poles and pairs! Do you know the Kv of this motor?
Thank you! I actually don't know the KV of this motor off-hand. But since this is a PMSM AC motor the KV would be expressed in terms of frequency per voltage applied. so the formula is RPM/60 = frequency, and KV = frequency / voltage
Why not use vise grip? You can hold the shaft from the chain.
Hi, I found your video very interesting. I hope you are still around because I need to ask you something, I have a faulty hall sensor and need to replace it... only 1 place I found was on Alipress, I think is not possible that I am the only person that have a faulty hall sensor. THX
Very good informative, Sir. Also please counts no of wires in slot. Wire gauge. And number of parallel wire also which is also for us.
ah! I meant to do this but forgot 😖 I will add to the description
I don't know the wire gauge but one is 0.5mm in diameter and there are 50 turns per coil
@@GaiusGarage It appears to be a 22 or 23AWG. By 50 turns per coil I think you meant 50 strands, right? If so, that would roughly equal a 6AWG wire, which is the same thickness of a Sur Ron phase wire.
@@VictorFainello 50 turns per coil in the stator so yes, 50 strands per coil but the phase wires were comprised of two coils so 100 strands total in the phase wires - they are 4AWG
How much RPM can produce this motor in star connection and delta connection with 48v?
In delta it should give more RPM and need to handle more current (need more thick wire)
They’re tamperproof torx bits, the first set you undid
How do you plan on rewinding it when you cut all the winding out of it without counting how many turns each one has?
I gave up on re-winding it. too much work when I can just sell the sell the rotor and stator for parts and put the proceeds towards a new motor, which is what I ended up doing
Hi the qs138 v3 90h
How many wire strands in each phase wires ??
50 turns per coil but phase wires are made up of two coils so 100 strands in each phase wire
@@GaiusGarage hi thanks, for the info, the wire strand diameter ?
@@peterfleming494 0.5mm I think that's 24AWG
@@GaiusGarage hi thanks
How many turns per slot you would have considered for rewinding the Motor? And also a number of wires in One Strand?
Good stuff, great vid, thanks. Do you know the difference between the 90H and the 70H? My guess is it is a bigger motor but I don't know that and in trying to look at specs it can be hard to get the same info on the same motor in 2 different places. Also, what controller were you running it with?
I honestly dont know what the "H" in 90 & 70 refer to. If I had to guess it would be related to the KV value of the motor..the rate at which it turn per volt. This is probably why the 70H often comes with a gearbox. The controller I was using is the Fardriver ND96530 - but I dont particularly recommend it mostly because the app and/or PC software to program it is total garbage. constant bugs that wont allow you to dial in the settings and support is shit
@@GaiusGarage Do you know if they are they physically about the same size? Not figuring the gearbox 70.
@@dbc105 the 70h is smaller
@@GaiusGarage I found what the name all means, 138 is the diameter of the rotor and 70 is the width of the magnets. So a 138 90H has magnets 20mm longer that in turn would mean the rotor is longer also. that is the way I understood it all and it makes perfect sense. I also saw that it looks as though they are either building or working on a 138 90H with gear reduction built in. Given the motor being at least 20mm wider I'm thinking it might be better to built with a jackshaft so the motor can be centered in the frame. I'm not yet building so that is just a guess.
@@dbc105 Ah! nice! it does make total sense. Thanks for the update on this! Mystery solved
extra crispy ! get some dipping sauce !
Great video, really in depth. Do you have another motor on the way?
Thanks! yeah I have one swapped out already. Runs cool as can be now
did you go with a different vendor? I'm curious how you could know how to avoid one with issues with the lugs like this motor experienced?
@@jamieforrester7108 I dont think there is any way to know ahead of time but I did use a difference vendor for the new motor. Official Siacosys store on Aliexpress seems to be legit. I added the vendor who sold me the faulty motor to the description
@@GaiusGarage Thanks for sharing. Isn't that the official QC motors shop on Aliexpress? And wouldn't the terminal be mounted by the producer, directly in the factory, and has nothing to do with the vendor?
@@matickovac I don't think so - there are a bunch of these clone shops on Aliexpress and there are a few different "QS motor" websites -- I don't know if they're all affiliated or if it's branding. I *think* Siacosys is who actually develops (and manufactures??) these motors then they resell them to various vendors. But I suspect they sell them without the terminals crimped. The other motor I got from Siacossys was crimped correctly. but I'm really not sure how it works
Dont you know by chance the thickness of one wire and the number of them in the phase wire?
Thanks for your video very, very good!!!!
maybe cut wire bundle with vibrator tool ?
Where can i buy that kind of hall sensor pcb? My reading on green is not same with yellow and blue..
I don't think you can buy just the PCB. maybe you can pick up a motor that's for parts or reach out QS motor and ask if they can sell you one
This is second case when I see one of these motors burned up like this .
To prevent this from happening again I would suggest pot the motor with special heat conductive motor potting compound after re-winding it .
Here's a very good example of what happens inside the motor with windings when it operates ..
The windings rub up against each other ..
ua-cam.com/video/lPNU2vniUIc/v-deo.html
very interesting! thank you for the link. the new motor I have barely heats up even when riding aggressively. I think in this case, crimping the lugs onto enamel was the primary cause of the fire
finally !!
How much was the motor on aliexpress, it been blocked?
How much does the electric motor weigh?
I did not weigh it before disassembly. this information is likely available in the spec sheet
great !!! now do a fardriver controller ! no one has done one yet !!
Please upload video on rewinding this motor
the stator was a bit damaged and I sold the motor for parts already so no rewinding video unfortunately
😊 thank you
How much price you sold the motor
@@rvvlogs4077 around $200 I think
My engine also burned out, only the qs 138 70h model, the copper winding was replaced and everything is ok, but it overheats at low current, e.g. 150A, and the previous qs 138 50h did not heat up so much and was much weaker. The driver is FAR ND72530. I'm afraid that during the combustion the magnets may have lost their power and therefore the motor draws more A than it should, e.g. when it accelerates. If it's not the fault of the magnets, what could it be overheating from? I would be very grateful for help. Regards and have a nice day
hard to say, unfortunately. could be settings in the controller but I'm not sure what the correct ones would be
@@GaiusGarage Hello friend thank you for your answer, and this driver with this engine works well for you? I don't know if it's not the driver's fault, I want to try votola em150 or 200.
@@Adrian-hw1no actually, I am very much unsatisfied with the Fardriver controller. Price is good and it does work, but app is garbage making good programming virtually impossible. documentation is inexplicable, and support is useless. I would use this only if you are on a budget. Many better options out there. I plan to make a video on why this controller sucks in the near future
@@GaiusGarage Well, I think I'm going to change it to something else, what would you recommend instead?
@@Adrian-hw1no just depends on your budget. Kelly controllers are pretty good. BAC4000 and BAC8000 are great but more expensive. The EBMX X9000 looks really awesome but price is too much. Then there's the Votol controllers, which I think are made by the same company as Fardriver..I don't really have an experience with them. The bottom line is that all of the common controllers on the market will do a good job, if you can program them correctly. Unfortunately, these Chinese companies don't put seem to put very much effort into build intuitive and robust software or good English documentation
What is the screw size for the 6 mounting holes on each side?
M8
@@GaiusGarage Thanks! M8-1.25 and looks like about 12mm of thread depth.
What about golden motor?
Better than QS motor?
Весёлый чувак. Есть моменты где показано как делать НЕ НАДО!
its epic owemzome!!!
So I had a ebike motor and Il couldn't figure out the hall sensors wires so I just deleted them all and I never saw a difference in performance or speed control am I gunna end up destroying something
you probably have a BLDC motor (as opposed to sinosoidal AC, like this QS138) or what you removed was not a hall sensor. the hall sensor tell the controller when to switch phases - it's like your brain reading the position of your legs to tell you when to switch for walking. if you did not know where your legs were at any given moment, you would not be able to coordinate a stride
@GaiusGarage ok ya I remember reading something blcd or we but thanks I didn't know the difference
@@dilanmontgomery5505 no problem! BLDC motor are more simple and just require a speed controller that switches the three phases at some rate - you don't need any other components, although you often have an additional signal wire that let's you increase or decrease that rate. With sinusoidal AC motors, the motor controller needs to know the position of the rotor relative to the stator and adjust the amplutide of the three phases accordingly. a hall sensor is one way to read the motor position, a sinusoidal encoder is another common one..probably some other techniques as well
Instead of using a flat tipped screwdriver, maybe invest in a brass punch.
I would be more concerned that the heat might have damaged the magnets
For how long can I run the motor at 15kw straight
I'm not sure - better to ask the manufacturer
Honestly I do not think it would be a good idea to reuse that stator to me it seems damaged as you mentioned
agreed!
That's not how you remove windings.
You had to find one of the phases and remove all stops which in tje middle of stator teeth , then you un-wind the motir and see how it's wound .
This way you also see how many turks there are .
Now you will have difficult time figuring out how it was wound ..
yeah no kidding lol. this was my original plan but it just seemed impossible to pull an individual winding out of a slot. I forgot to count the turns for the video but I can still do this from the windings that I pulled out. I probably will not attempt to rewind this motor, just seems like alot of tedious work and I'd prob screw it up anyway - lose count of turns, etc. plus, like I mentioned, there's some evident damages to the stator laminate so not even sure it's viable to do. will probably just sell for parts or turn into an art piece
pls make winding video 😁✌
Did you get your money back?
If you pushed 13kw through this 4000w motor more than 10 seconds , no wonder why it's fried...
My wires are colored
нет пропитки лаком, нет изоляции лобовых частей обмоток. При работе мотора провода немного вибрируют, протирается лаковая изоляция и происходит замыкание