Home Workshop Engineering - Fitting Horn Blocks
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- Опубліковано 17 лис 2014
- This video shows the steps taken to fit 6 'horn blocks' to a set of scale steam locomotive frames. The horn blocks were fabricated from mild steel of cuts which were silver soldered together.
- Наука та технологія
Crispin, your work is peerless, and your passion is relentless! I am an old timer from the U.S. and I think as a young man, you have your ducks in a row! Can't wait to see that beauty when it's finished.
Nice job on the silver soldering. I like that copper tubing fixture. Very creative
You're a true master. Your patience and skill is astounding for a young fellow. Don't ever quit.
Hello Crispin,
Nice work. I love all the hand fitting. I find this kind of work very satisfying to do and to watch. Thanks for sharing your project.
All the best,
Tom
oxtoolco Thank you, Yes I enjoy the hand work, as long as no one is rushing you!
There are so many bits and pieces on this video to file under "reference". Excellent bit on hardening the riveting tool. I was thinking "he better move that flimsy plastic cup out of the way before it melts down", not realizing that was your quenching bucket! Never in a million years I would have thought you could quench in a plastic cup :-)
My youngest son and I have been very much inspired by your videos. So much so that between you and our local live steam club we are going to build a loco. Not sure what one yet but we have learnt so much from watching your films. Please do continue. It really is great watching your loco take shape.
David Leahy Thanks, I'm very pleased to be able to help and encourage model engineering in this way.
Nice job Crispin, in all my years of metal working I've not worked with this type of riveting. Thank you for teaching an old dog a new trick!! Very clever idea on silver soldering jig! For such a young guy, your wisdom seems to exceed your years!! Well done young man!
Razor!
Awesome....amazing craftsmanship! Keep up your good work and I look forward to the next video. I'm sure all "mentors" (Mr Fenner, Mr Pete, Mr Lipton, Mr Booth" etc.) will be pleased to see such good young machinist keeping the trade alive. Sorry for my bad english it's not my native language. Best wishes from Quebec, Canada
Thanks for showing the rivet tools and how the riveting is done
I am impressed with your patience to file and fit till perfect.
Hi Crispin, fantastic work mate. Your attention to detail is just incredible. Thanks for sharing your vids.
Glenn Mack Thank you very much
What a fantastic series you have produced. I have been very much inspired by you. I am yet to purchase a lathe but can't wait. Please keep it up.
Great video. Very informative as always. You always explain everything very clearly. As a beginner these videos are invaluable to me. Thank you very much for taking the time to show us. Your very talented.
Another Excellant video Crispin! keep em comming
Well thanks Mr Pete for putting me on to crisping s channel brilliant work the next kieth fenner for a 2nd year apprentice you blew me away can't wait for next video good luck
Great video once again. Thank you, and looking forward to the next one.
Andrew Sweetapple Thank you for all your nice comments
Crispin, another great video, and fine workmanship, keep up the fantastic work...best wishes, Paul
Very impressive fabrication Crispin. I am amazed at you patience... Thanks for sharing this with us. Fred
Fred Miller Thank you
Superb craftsmanship, very well done. I look forward to the next installment
a6cjn Thank you very much
mrpete222 said to check you out so here I am boy was he right you really know your stuff . Great Job.
Mack McCurry Thanks very much
really helpful for me. cant wait till the next installment. ive learn a lot so far. keep them coming!
Hi Crispin,You could also use a commercial nail punch for the tight corners of the hornblocks
Fitting the axle boxes to the horn blocks: Avoid making them too close a fit. Remember the suspension on a steam loco has a ridgid axle and as the suspension operates the axle boxes may not rise evenly each side of the engine. Some parts are sprung whilst other parts are not and will need a little play to cope!
I got the link to your channel from Mr Pete what a fantastic video, I'm looking forward to seeing more . Thanks!
wullie beck Thanks
I have been made very happy to watch your work - thanks again, chuck I notice that you are using metric and English measurement systems. Some years ago, two companies had used metric and American systems had assumed the other was using the system they used...that created a horrible incident with space systems. / thanks Chuck
So young and so clever thanks mr crispin
Awesome job. One of the coolest videos ive ever watched. And that's saying ALOT. Lol. I dont know if my arm would hold up to 100 rivets. What is that, like 10-12,000 swings of the hammer? Uh, yeah that arm would be useless jelly for a week or so. Lol. Thanks for sharing these techniques. I greatly enjoyed it, and im excited for the next video.
Mitchell Martin Thank you very much, That it high praise! No idea how many swings, the hammer isn't to heavy though!
Excellent videos - well done
Very nice work. Wish you were my neighbor.
Hi 👋🏻 Mr Crispin. Really interesting 👍🏻
excellent work!!!!
Well done sir!
Lovely job and detail to craftsmanship.
Where did you acquire the blueprints for this locomotive?
Regards,
Dave
Great video, very informative I lerned a few bits there, I am just about to do some double ended riveting on my 3 inch allchin. Maybe a video on double ended riviting would be very useful subject.
again, lovely work.
its jsut an option. but for my loco i waited to machine the inside of the horns, until i had a fully assembled chassis.
i then mounted it upside down on the mill and machined the inner horn faces.
that way i got them all parallel to eachother.
but im sure with the quality your working to, you wont have a problem.
andyg3 Good suggestion, In my next video I will mention this.
Wow! Ingenious :)
Brilliant 👍🏻
excellent!
Carter W Hern Thank you for the support
G'day MrCrispin I have found your videos extremely interesting and very helpful as I am building a Super Simplex 5" gauge loco. I have never attempted anything like a locomotive before, so any advice I can get hold of is very helpful. Your machining skills are a marvel to watch and you have already taught me a lot, especially about making jigs ect . I have subscribed and I look forward to your next videos. What would be your advise on a good book on the making of miniature locomotives or machining in general? Thank you once again kind regards John Tasmania Australia
+John Kinnane Hi Good to hear from you. Im pleased to be of help. Ive been fortunate enough to have experienced moel engineers to consult when I need help so I have never really read much on the topic. I believe the book on building the 5" Sweat Pea is good.
+MrCrispin thank you for your reply, I will be joining a club soon but I will get a hold of that book. Regards John
How did you form the cup for the vise mounted rivet set and ensure it was the correct across head dimension and radius ? Or did you just heat the end and whack a ball bearing ?
Malcolm
mparkerlisberg Hi, I used a ball nose cutter to form the cup, and a standard rivet as a depth gauge.
very cool.
Arthur Donald Thanks
Took way too long to do!. What would poses you to cut out that rectangle by drilling a bunch of holes next to each other and filing smooth instead of just using an endmill? Were all your endmills broken at the time?
since watching this i have read some people are saying riveting can distort, i i like the idea to use rivets rather than bolts or similar, would you still use the rivets today?
Generally people mill the inside after they're fitted so riveting wouldn't cause a problem as any distortion would be removed
Hi Crispin,
It was hard to see, but it looked like you were choking the hammer (holding it short).
Paul Compton I think I was holding it certainly towards the front of the grip.
As to the question of holding the webs before silver soldering, you said “if I had been welding I could have tacked them in place”. Would that not have been a solution for silver soldering too? Tack weld one spot to put them in place, and then silver solder the whole lot. It would have made the part more accessible during silver soldering. Maybe it is a stupid thought, if so please say so, I am just a beginner and not in this size anyway (search for my nickname and you will find my website). Wonderfully interesting videos though and no doubt I am not the first one to note that.
Thanks for your comment. Yes what you have suggested is actually a solution that people use. Tack weld and then silver solder. The only issue comes with other materials. Typically allot of thin brass and copper fabrications are done by silver soldering and in thoes cases tack welding could be a bit risky. Cheers.
you call one end of the hammer a 'dome' end....we call such a hammer a 'ball peen hammer' but I don't know why. again, your videos are super....I have learned a lot an it informs me of my wife's dad who was a machinist with the Rock Island Arsenal. Interesting for me is that you say 'soLdering' why we leave the L silent, 'sawdering' :)
How did you smooth over the rivets?
Just with a file
@@MrCrispinEnterprises thanks, sounds like a big job!
Watching this you made rivet tool, yet you could make a rivet gun type out of an air chisel by fashioning a spare chisel head to a rivet tool.
I think you shorted yourself when you said there were 102 rivets. Each horn has 18 rivets and there are 6 horns which makes it 108 rivets you had to hammer in. Still a LOT of hammering. Nice work.
I was watching the next video and saw that you had cut a corner off of one of the horn flangess to make room for the boiler. If you did this to the horn on the opposite side, you would have eliminated 6 rivets and put in 102 rivets and not 108.
can you talk with out marbles in your mouth,your hard to understand.
can you type without been rude