That is certainly why I get excited everytime Adam posts up a new video. His unfussy presentation style is extraordinarily thoughtful and graces and inspires those of us who are fussy about the results, but aren't yet skilled enough to achieve them. 👍👍😎👍👍 Makes sense this was released on Thanksgiving Day! 😉
Hi. This comment has nothing to do with peel grinding. I tried to leave a comment on your brilliant fixturing for your 1911 project but the video was taken down for some reason. Anyway, the fixturing you demonstrated was absolutely beautiful both in form and function. Thanks.
I totally agree! Any chance that video might be shared on another platform? With all the great info, and the time you spent on that build, it is a shame that it's no longer available for viewing. Thanks!
I stumbled upon this technique in my own learnings on surface grinders. Really good explanation I totally understand and agree with what you say. Love your content, so glad I found your channel.
Every time I start one of your videos ithink "hmm probably not for me". But every time I find myself watching and rewatching the enitre video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Thank you for making this video. I was one of the people who asked for it after not understanding your description in the last video. That paper explanation really helped.
This is a wonderfully described process. I "stumbled" onto this process while grinding .060" thin D2 cutter blades. Didn't know it had a name! I use it on most things I do now. You don't spend time dressing your wheel with this process as the leading edge is breaking down and exposing fresh grains yet the trailing edge is remaining stable and consistent.
I was checking to see if anyone else made your point about dressing, otherwise I was going to. I actually find this technique (I, too, never knew it had a name) gives me a better finish on some machines, I assumed it was because the grains which did the finishing were well sorted (any rogue grains with their "heads above the parapet" having been knocked out) and would give a better finish than a fresh-dressed wheel would at the beginning of a finishing pass.
Furthermore it seems to bme that the leading edge of the wheel, because of the substantial depth of cut, is having any blunted grains torn out in short order, keeping the business end of the wheel free-cutting, because there are always plenty of sharp grains being "brought into play", like fresh players in rugby whent there is a high injury rate and a "deep bench".
I love the way you explained peel grinding Adam. I've been using this grinding technique for years, mainly to keep the heat down in the work piece like you explained here, but I've never been able to explain this technique as well as you have in this video. Once again, thank you for sharing your knowledge with us sir.
Hey Adam! A dive into the finer points of using a speed control on the spindle would be cool. They can make a wheel behave harder or softer and save dressing and changing wheels some. Great for CPM steels. Also, a must-have for diamond wheels/carbide grinding IMO. They improve my productivity and wheel cost - can't live without them.
You articulate this process very well . I never knew what it was called , we always called it creep feeding. It works great on High chrome alloys and 400 series stainless. I love you can set up the grinder on a fine cross feed and go do something else. It keeps the wheel sharp exposing new grains. I`ve worked in a job shop since the 80`s . I`m just about to retire. I really enjoy your videos. Thanks very much.
Excellent video ,your depth of knowledge is impressive. I’ve never seen the razor blade trick. I like it. I can put it on the shadow graph and see what I’m actually doing. Nice.
I recall at work the head toolmaker was grinding a case-hardened toolmaker's flat and it cracked and the hard surface curled up like potato chips. He was using plenty of coolant and wide Norton purple wheel. I'll bet he was using the entire wheel width.
I typically watch all your videos twice, great information! I especially liked the close up of the chip swarf, I’ve always heard of this but hadn’t ever seen it before.
Very interesting and explained very well. Sure, do appreciate these ideas and techniques. Makes me want to go out right now and do a test grind. Thank You.
Such a great video and very informative. Do you think on the next video you can show how your hands are working while you're manual grinding. I can't believe the speed of this technique
100% appreciate the video's. I would love it if the volume was a little higher (matching other videos on UA-cam) as it helps with video transitions (shop-world problems;). Regardless, thank you for sharing these truly helpful tips and processes.
I'm hoping you still check old posts first to say thank you and as a "rookie", how do you determine the grain size of a grinding wheel [for the step-over process?]
Having never used as surface grinder but interested in the process, I thought what you've described was the only way... Using the corner so you are constantly exposing untouched parts of the wheel and it technically won't ever change diameter.
Taking a very wide step over and shallow step down is the norm. it’s often far more efficient for large parts and many semi auto grinders can’t make steps this small and consistent
Does the wheel breakdown of that leading edge actually create the longer ramp? Are you able to go longer between wheel dressings, since the part of the wheel that 'wipes' the part to final dimension is doing so little work?
Eventually the wheel will start to shed grains as they dull, exposing a new sharper corner of grains . Prolonging the interval between dresses is a key advantage of this
Adam, I could barely hear you over the grinding noises at around 6:05 - maybe next times edit the volume of such recordings down! Otherwise excellent information and thank you very much for putting it together. I'll be subscribing.
Huh. I didn't get that impression from the sound there; I thought it was pretty good! To me (just a point of view), it would have been like taking the engine sounds out of a racing video. 🙂 But... different people, different perceptions, I guess!
Very interesting technique! Thank you for sharing. Would you recommend this technique for thin stock with inner strees? I mean from knifemaking point of view we usually grind blades or titanium handles which are around 4 mm thick. After milling or grinding they tend to bend pretty much because of inner stresses... Do you think this technique will be better for flattening than regular wheel grinding?
It’s low heat generating and doesn’t have much force which allows a lower magnetic hold, so it can be handy on very thin parts . No experience with grinding titanium
So the "peel grinding" that you described is how I do most all of my grinding. Would "plunge" grinding be the opposing method? I tend to steer clear of full wheel width grinding because of heat.
Plunge and traverse grinding are two more common ways of removing material. Traversing is how most semi auto grinders remove, plunge meaning the wheel slowly moves down till final depth is hit and then moves over 90 percent of the wheel width and repeats until the part is ground. And yes, without coolant those options do tend to create more heat than peel grinding . The neat thing about this work is all the different ways to do the job
Hi Adam, hope you folks had a great Thanksgiving! Wanted to ask you where you mounted the scales/read heads of the DRO on your Parker-Majestic grinder? I just added a single axis DRO to my Harig, and basically mounted it ala Acu-Rites instructions, but with shop made mounts. The scale is along side the right/rear of the column( as you face the machine ) with the split rubber seal pointed rearward, and the reader head anchored to the motor housing. Always interested in seeing how others skinned their cat.
The scale is mounted to the Column via a flexure chassis provided by heidenhain, and the read head is mounted under the motor reading at approximately the same heigh the wheel would be
Heat off with the chip . Out of 50 years , not full time , never thought of it till the last ten , and only with lathe or mill , and only today with grinding ,,, !
Step grinding is a method of squaring up the part . It’s done by figuring out which way and by how much the part is out of square and then grinding a step to correct it .
Yeah I wouldn't do this, you load up the spindle and the wheel, especially when grinding something like D2 or A2, better off going smaller depth and utilising the whole width of the wheel. You also load swarf into the wheel and takes a lot to dress off
It's crazy at a glance in my mind but listening to it it seems to be working honestly, but yeah even with our good grinder on some metals we work with I'm doing micron depths or 10-20 not .25 honestly mind blowing didn't know you could do it at all wearing the machine or not, but it sounds like it's working just like how it says after that left side passes it's not an unreasonable amount to spark it out on the later passes at all. Just chewed it off, I would expected a blown apart wheel or like burnt parts, I don't get how there's less force
Adam got an A+ in arts and crafts and has never looked back.
I do find some child like joy in making the craft paper demos. very enjoyable and faster than modeling something in cad
They really help to demonstrate your techniques. I appreciate it
@@adamthemachinist They are incredibly useful to understand the concepts without having background in toolmaking and very much appreciated
@@adamthemachinist they're also very hands on, getting different parts of the brain going compared to working on the computer.
Always love your paper explanations Adam, they're so clear and fit really well with your unfussy style!
That is certainly why I get excited everytime Adam posts up a new video. His unfussy presentation style is extraordinarily thoughtful and graces and inspires those of us who are fussy about the results, but aren't yet skilled enough to achieve them. 👍👍😎👍👍 Makes sense this was released on Thanksgiving Day! 😉
Hi. This comment has nothing to do with peel grinding. I tried to leave a comment on your brilliant fixturing for your 1911 project but the video was taken down for some reason. Anyway, the fixturing you demonstrated was absolutely beautiful both in form and function. Thanks.
I totally agree! Any chance that video might be shared on another platform? With all the great info, and the time you spent on that build, it is a shame that it's no longer available for viewing. Thanks!
I stumbled upon this technique in my own learnings on surface grinders. Really good explanation I totally understand and agree with what you say. Love your content, so glad I found your channel.
Spiral chips off a grinder, wild. Thank you for documenting this!
Every time I start one of your videos ithink "hmm probably not for me". But every time I find myself watching and rewatching the enitre video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
I finally tried this method, and learned alot. Thank you, Adam!
Thank you for making this video. I was one of the people who asked for it after not understanding your description in the last video. That paper explanation really helped.
This is a wonderfully described process. I "stumbled" onto this process while grinding .060" thin D2 cutter blades. Didn't know it had a name! I use it on most things I do now. You don't spend time dressing your wheel with this process as the leading edge is breaking down and exposing fresh grains yet the trailing edge is remaining stable and consistent.
I was checking to see if anyone else made your point about dressing, otherwise I was going to.
I actually find this technique (I, too, never knew it had a name) gives me a better finish on some machines,
I assumed it was because the grains which did the finishing were well sorted (any rogue grains with their "heads above the parapet" having been knocked out) and would give a better finish than a fresh-dressed wheel would at the beginning of a finishing pass.
Furthermore it seems to bme that the leading edge of the wheel, because of the substantial depth of cut, is having any blunted grains torn out in short order, keeping the business end of the wheel free-cutting, because there are always plenty of sharp grains being "brought into play", like fresh players in rugby whent there is a high injury rate and a "deep bench".
I love the way you explained peel grinding Adam. I've been using this grinding technique for years, mainly to keep the heat down in the work piece like you explained here, but I've never been able to explain this technique as well as you have in this video. Once again, thank you for sharing your knowledge with us sir.
Any possibility we could see more of the “ 2nd Dimension Fixture”? Or a video about how to make it ? Thanks for everything you do!
Hey Adam! A dive into the finer points of using a speed control on the spindle would be cool. They can make a wheel behave harder or softer and save dressing and changing wheels some. Great for CPM steels. Also, a must-have for diamond wheels/carbide grinding IMO. They improve my productivity and wheel cost - can't live without them.
You articulate this process very well . I never knew what it was called , we always called it creep feeding. It works great on High chrome alloys and 400 series stainless. I love you can set up the grinder on a fine cross feed and go do something else. It keeps the wheel sharp exposing new grains. I`ve worked in a job shop since the 80`s . I`m just about to retire. I really enjoy your videos. Thanks very much.
Excellent video ,your depth of knowledge is impressive. I’ve never seen the razor blade trick. I like it. I can put it on the shadow graph and see what I’m actually doing. Nice.
Thanks for your time and knowledge, Adam!!
Just tried peel grinding today, and it worked great with my little Harig Super 612! Thanks for sharing that Adam. Have an awesome 2023!
Thank you for another excellent video Adam
Superb! Thanks for amplifying this topic. I’ll add it to the bag of tricks. 👍
I recall at work the head toolmaker was grinding a case-hardened toolmaker's flat and it cracked and the hard surface curled up like potato chips. He was using plenty of coolant and wide Norton purple wheel. I'll bet he was using the entire wheel width.
I typically watch all your videos twice, great information! I especially liked the close up of the chip swarf, I’ve always heard of this but hadn’t ever seen it before.
Very interesting and explained very well. Sure, do appreciate these ideas and techniques. Makes me want to go out right now and do a test grind. Thank You.
Another great lesson Adam, thank you! Will definitely give this technique a try on my little Harig 612 as I learn to use it.
Yes, I was thinking about asking for the same thing!
Awsome video, keep up the great content.
Thanks for making more informative videos Adam. You are top notch.
Happy Thanksgiving and thanks for the video!
Those little chips were so cute.
Really shows that grinding is indeed a "cutting" process.
@@dutchgray86 yeah, had never really thought about it.
Thank you for sharing, great discussion/demonstration/tooling setups
Fantastic explanation! Thank you for sharing, very informative and interesting!
👍 surface grinding tips and tricks are very helpful! Not much out there.
It is correct my deep of my cutting of rough out is about
.02 to .025 ,and move of .2 each
I'm so new to grinding that I get overly concerned on my touch off. 5 thousanths is really going to lift the boys, but we're going to try this!
Great video!
Such a great video and very informative. Do you think on the next video you can show how your hands are working while you're manual grinding. I can't believe the speed of this technique
100% appreciate the video's. I would love it if the volume was a little higher (matching other videos on UA-cam) as it helps with video transitions (shop-world problems;). Regardless, thank you for sharing these truly helpful tips and processes.
W❤️W! That’s Incredibly Awesome! 🤗❤️✨
Good stuff Adam!
ATB, Robin
Just found your channel and Subscribed. Nice engine.
Thank you for explaining this!
I'm hoping you still check old posts first to say thank you and as a "rookie", how do you determine the grain size of a grinding wheel [for the step-over process?]
This is actually bewildering what kind of steel and white stone like wheel is this
Spent 10 years as a tool and die maker behind a Parker. Talon INC grinding zipper die parts.
AWESOME, THANKS!
Having never used as surface grinder but interested in the process, I thought what you've described was the only way... Using the corner so you are constantly exposing untouched parts of the wheel and it technically won't ever change diameter.
Taking a very wide step over and shallow step down is the norm. it’s often far more efficient for large parts and many semi auto grinders can’t make steps this small and consistent
Does the wheel breakdown of that leading edge actually create the longer ramp? Are you able to go longer between wheel dressings, since the part of the wheel that 'wipes' the part to final dimension is doing so little work?
Eventually the wheel will start to shed grains as they dull, exposing a new sharper corner of grains . Prolonging the interval between dresses is a key advantage of this
I think your white balance was pulsating a bit. Thanks for the video!
I’d love to see a video with more details on the microscope. What are you using?
Thanks!
Adam, I could barely hear you over the grinding noises at around 6:05 - maybe next times edit the volume of such recordings down! Otherwise excellent information and thank you very much for putting it together. I'll be subscribing.
Huh. I didn't get that impression from the sound there; I thought it was pretty good! To me (just a point of view), it would have been like taking the engine sounds out of a racing video. 🙂 But... different people, different perceptions, I guess!
Very interesting technique! Thank you for sharing. Would you recommend this technique for thin stock with inner strees? I mean from knifemaking point of view we usually grind blades or titanium handles which are around 4 mm thick. After milling or grinding they tend to bend pretty much because of inner stresses... Do you think this technique will be better for flattening than regular wheel grinding?
It’s low heat generating and doesn’t have much force which allows a lower magnetic hold, so it can be handy on very thin parts . No experience with grinding titanium
Super informative video as always! But please make the audio louder! I can barely hear this video at max volume 😄
So the "peel grinding" that you described is how I do most all of my grinding. Would "plunge" grinding be the opposing method? I tend to steer clear of full wheel width grinding because of heat.
Plunge and traverse grinding are two more common ways of removing material. Traversing is how most semi auto grinders remove, plunge meaning the wheel slowly moves down till final depth is hit and then moves over 90 percent of the wheel width and repeats until the part is ground. And yes, without coolant those options do tend to create more heat than peel grinding . The neat thing about this work is all the different ways to do the job
Hi Adam, hope you folks had a great Thanksgiving! Wanted to ask you where you mounted the scales/read heads of the DRO on your Parker-Majestic grinder? I just added a single axis DRO to my Harig, and basically mounted it ala Acu-Rites instructions, but with shop made mounts. The scale is along side the right/rear of the column( as you face the machine ) with the split rubber seal pointed rearward, and the reader head anchored to the motor housing. Always interested in seeing how others skinned their cat.
The scale is mounted to the Column via a flexure chassis provided by heidenhain, and the read head is mounted under the motor reading at approximately the same heigh the wheel would be
@@adamthemachinist Thanks for the description Adam!
Always interesting 8-)
I feel I have very good results with this technic on 60more RC D2
It’s great on hard wear resistant steels
This wouldn't work with thin parts due to warp correct?
It can be effective in thin work, but it requires a reduction in wheel hardness . A harder wheel in thin stuff tends to increase warp
Heat off with the chip . Out of 50 years , not full time , never thought of it till the last ten , and only with lathe or mill , and only today with grinding ,,, !
Sir how much is paid for surface grinding operator per month
Sometime you talk about “step grinding”, is this what you’re talking about, or is that something else?
Step grinding is a method of squaring up the part . It’s done by figuring out which way and by how much the part is out of square and then grinding a step to correct it .
Muito bom !
this is how i was taught to do grinding.
Yeah I wouldn't do this, you load up the spindle and the wheel, especially when grinding something like D2 or A2, better off going smaller depth and utilising the whole width of the wheel. You also load swarf into the wheel and takes a lot to dress off
It's crazy at a glance in my mind but listening to it it seems to be working honestly, but yeah even with our good grinder on some metals we work with I'm doing micron depths or 10-20 not .25 honestly mind blowing didn't know you could do it at all wearing the machine or not, but it sounds like it's working just like how it says after that left side passes it's not an unreasonable amount to spark it out on the later passes at all. Just chewed it off, I would expected a blown apart wheel or like burnt parts, I don't get how there's less force
My volume is cranked and i still can't hear you clearly.
Guess I just don't get to watch your videos.
Complete useless. For your chit-chat should have different title.
Thanks !