I really love your use of big paper models to demonstrate what you're doing - it makes the process so much clearer especially with the separate colours
@@mattgrady518 Yes! That's it! I have similar features on the surface gauge for squareness, but I like how low the pivot edge is on the Squarol. Thanks!
The over-exaggeration of angles/differences helps so much when describing these principles, like you did with the paper models and the shim. Nice video.
Awesome stuff! Good to talk about the nitty gritty of it all! I think you help nurture more awareness of what a good setup is. Just as in the size of lathe to the parts it might see. I wrestled with that the most since it wld dominate my space. Thanks for sharing!
Adam, you are doing a great with these videos. I hope you can keep them coming. I'm seeing some neat stuff that I'm not seeing elsewhere. Also, your production, lighting, paper models are just spot on! Thank you for putting these up.
Thankyou for taking the time to make these videos. I would never have thought to just check for squareness that way, this will make my life much easier in the future. Also Love the toolmakers cube 'vise' setup. Makes me want to design a heavier vise type that has adjustable high jaws for milling work for the number of times I've had to make soft jaws or custom height parallels so that I could hold a part just so.
While I don't have a SG'r, that tool makers block and back stop gave me more than enough to put one of my 246 blocks to good use on my mill for doing very small parts with light cuts. And as always, a great, well demonstrated and explained video Adam.
I'm not a machinist but I find this stuff fascinating. I do woodworking and this reminds me the technique of always having a reference surface to work from to ensure squareness, parallelism, etc.
I still find it amazing that such a small point of contact with so little pressure can hold the part against the fence. I know your not hogging material off but I can't help but squint in anticipation of a crash. Presumably you develop a feel over time. Thanks for sharing
This video had my Ears perk up immediately!!!! As 95% of everything I want to machine on my new Sherline Mill are those VERY SMALL PARTS! All for 1:25 detail scale auto model parts.😳 👉Been having fits trying to work with aluminum stock that's 1" long & 1/2" wide in a the Sherline Vice, 4 jaw chuck or hold straps & clamps🤓 I luv your communication delivery style with these videos- very easy to understand & follow-Well Done 💯💯💯 ☯️ZenModeling☯️
As an aspiring amateur machinist really appreciate your clear presentation and video. I´ve just finished refurbishing a manual 612 suface grinder and now I have to learn how to drive the thing so this was perfect. Thanks!
Excellent content and information! Outside of the videos that Stan created years ago, there's not a lot of quality grinding/measuring vids on YT. Some of the fantastic UA-camrs that have left comments on this vid further proves the point. Great job, thanks for sharing, & keep up the good work!
I love your videos. Always something to learn. One thing though. Audio levels are a bit inconsistent. In parts I need to turn up the volume, then quickly turn it down on another segment.
This is all great information i usually grind small parts with a very tiny vice. The parallels are always a problem though, im gonna start making one of the setups you displayed. Thanks for the amazing content Adam.👍
Excellent video! Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Would love to see you do a series on tool room grinding. I think you would get a tremendous amount of views since there isn’t really any quality grinding videos out there.
Adam... How about a description of how to make the machinist cube (process steps in order). Saw, Mill, Drill, Tap, Heat Treat, Grind. I don't think you actually need to spend the time and actually make a second one, but going through the steps (and your paper models, WHICH ARE FANTASTIC BY THE WAY!!!!!!!!) would guide those less knowledgeable in the specific order of operations including stock to leave for heat treat movement, etc., etc.. Your delivery of content is done in a way that is comprehensive and basically, if one can make this cube CORRECTLY, fully understanding the steps and the why behind those steps, then there really isn't much in the way of typical square and flat work that can't be done... I think. Oh, the milling could be done with description of manual Bridgeport and then by CNC pathing around and then flip over to cut the deck off. Regardless, your doing a great job with this... we need more youth understanding HOW TO MAKE and then spending time with a spindle turning and their hands on a crank wheel.
Great video on how to hold small parts. It looks like the next tool I need to make is a cube, like the idea of the fence being adjustable. What about a video on grinding aluminum? I’ve watched the one SR did, even bought the wheel they recommended. One part I make is 4” x 2” one side is flat but needs to match up with the V-Grooves on the opposite side.
I used to use a fixed square block and a DTI to check for square then work to ultimate squareness (and Parallel) then end up using cigarette papers as shimming under one edge before a re-grind, or even a line of Permanent marker pen then a re-grind. Made some crazy accurate shit in one job.
Your videos are packed full of information I never thought I would need to know! But so helpful to me in many ways. Easy to listen to and I hope you make more. Thank you very much! What steel did you use for the cube and the attachments? I need to make one of these.
Love the videos, fascinating to watch and learn from. If I could offer a small piece of advice, add a "trailer" or something to the end of your videos. UA-cam likes to display related videos overtop of the last couple seconds of each video, and it can't be turned off. Unfortunately for yours, it hides the last check you made.
Its just a regular SHCS ground to a cone, they peen over with use and I periodically touch them up. I've played around with different tips even some with ball joints , all are better on paper. But a regulars screw ground to a point work very well and arent fussy to make
Really fantastic video! Quick question about the cube and in particular about the clamping screw. How did you determine the best angle for the screw itself so that it clamps both down to the block and against the rail, and I saw you tighten it with a very light pressure, but would not a small block between it and the part spread the clamping pressure and avoid any warping while allowing for a more secure (higher pressure) clamping? (in particular on flimsier or more complex parts)
I’ve played around with the angle a lot in my career and I haven’t found there to be an exact angle that works best, just a gradual angle pointed down is fine. Some toolmakers I known don’t bother making the clamps adjustable , they just tap a hole on an angle . As for a clamping block , it certainly wouldn’t hurt but I get by fine without it .
I have a bad habit of knocking on parts with one knuckle to feel if they are down in a vise or on a fixture. Its really easy to tell if theres the more boney dull thud of the machine casting thru your body or, s tap or click from the part. But its to easy to hurt my knuckles. I should see how I like a piece of wood.
👍👍as always. I recently as this question to Mr Crispin and I’ll ask you the same. I often see folks using a test indicator in the “fine measurement range” (0.001” - 0.002”) using a indicator with 0.0005” resolution. I have to wonder why they wouldn’t use an indicator with 0.0001” resolution? If this is a piece of equipment you are likely purchasing new (dollar for dollar) wouldn’t you go for a finer resolution? Seems you could get a more accurate assessment of a situation with a 0.0001” indicator vs a 0.0005” indicator. I’m sure there is more to why these 1/2 thou indicators get used but is there something I’m missing? Are tenth indicators more susceptible to damage and 1/2 thou more robust? Or could it be for hobbyists there is a large available of these on the second hand market?
The total range of a 1/2 thou indicator is much larger. For general work they really do most of what you need. Tenths indicators have a small range and when doing normal indicating chores are much too sensitive and lack the overall range for say dialing in a bore on the mill. Once you get on the surface plate that typically changes but it also depends on the class of work you are doing. If your flexing and using a tenths indicator on your Bridgeport you are fooling yourself into a false sense of accuracy by way of tool resolution.
Surface roughness also plays a factor into chasing the needle on a 0.0001" indicator, Adam's work could probably be fine for it, but for most a 0.0005" is fine. And to your final point, they're cheaper than 0.0001" indicators.
Lots of fine points listed so far . One more thing that makes a .0005 worth having is it’s lower gaging pressure . If you have a flimsy setup the gage is actually deflecting the part. This is handy if doing something like indicating a probe tip. You can have zero indicator movement on a renishaw probe and switch to a courser indicator and suddenly see a little runout. The gage pressure of the .0001 is pushing down the high spots of the ruby probe tip.
@@adamthemachinist very nice! This is the sort of thing that takes extra work to make up first time but saves so much every time you use it after. Looks great and thank you for the videos and the reply.
@@adamthemachinist - Do you harden shop made tools like the cube and similar? Man, if there was a source that made such things with the Renzetti universal 1-2-3 block pattern...
My dumb a** thought you were using a pencil to tighten the rib there. 🤨 That said thank you as always for the insight; I truly am a freshman in a grad class here but I'm taking notes.
ua-cam.com/users/shortscaBm5lGKG2Y?feature=share Machining complete. Still needs heat treated, ground, and lapped. Wishing I made it smaller but still think it will work great
Hi Adam, I have a similar set up to yours but without a grinder (cnc mill/lathe and manual), I'm just starting out. Do you think a grinder is necessary? Also if you were purchasing a second hand one like yours, what sort of variation would you say is good over the entire x travel in flatness or other specs? Thanks.
It’s hard to say how necessary a piece of equipment is without knowing the work load. Being a tool shop I do lots of hardened steel and it’s very important to be able to grind . But a shop that does non ferrous may not see any need for a grinder
Shop made, I haven’t seen anything like this commercially available. Surface Grinder tooling is a hard market , anything you’ll be making is attempting to be sold to people that have the equipment to make said item . So you see lots of shop made stuff and only the very common stuff is sold commercially
not really pertinent to your vid but do you know has anyone ever seen how Johansen used his wife's sewingg machine to lap his first set of gage blocks?
I really love your use of big paper models to demonstrate what you're doing - it makes the process so much clearer especially with the separate colours
Agreed!!!
Exactly what I was on my way to comment ...
Even better? Imagine all the wasted work it'd be...
Trying to ANIMATE THAT (for no benefit, either)
Great explanation, thank you!
I love your grinding videos.
I like the way Adam make these videos. Expertise without arrogance
Theres a lot of great info here and you explain it very clearly. I'm especially intrigued by your "short" squareness comparator. Thanks for sharing!
Are you referring to the squaroll? I've got one myself. They do most if not all my squareness measuring.
@@mattgrady518 Yes! That's it! I have similar features on the surface gauge for squareness, but I like how low the pivot edge is on the Squarol. Thanks!
Adam's the bearded Dan Gelbart. Wealth of information in the videos ♥️
Yes!
The over-exaggeration of angles/differences helps so much when describing these principles, like you did with the paper models and the shim. Nice video.
You and robin renzetti make the most enjoyable videos about ultra high precision parts. You two probably have more skill than my entire shop
Combined
Awesome stuff! Good to talk about the nitty gritty of it all! I think you help nurture more awareness of what a good setup is. Just as in the size of lathe to the parts it might see. I wrestled with that the most since it wld dominate my space. Thanks for sharing!
Really enjoying the way you explain these subjects and demonstrate them in a clearly articulated manner. Appreciate you taking the time
Thanks for watching !
Adam, you are doing a great with these videos. I hope you can keep them coming. I'm seeing some neat stuff that I'm not seeing elsewhere. Also, your production, lighting, paper models are just spot on! Thank you for putting these up.
Thanks, Adam, love your style. The visual aids are best-in-class. Please keep doing what you’re doing! 👍
Your cutouts are helpful, thanks for taking the time. Charles
They say he does the best paper cutout demonstrations in the entire midwest.
how about a video making the tool makers cube?
Thankyou for taking the time to make these videos. I would never have thought to just check for squareness that way, this will make my life much easier in the future. Also Love the toolmakers cube 'vise' setup. Makes me want to design a heavier vise type that has adjustable high jaws for milling work for the number of times I've had to make soft jaws or custom height parallels so that I could hold a part just so.
While I don't have a SG'r, that tool makers block and back stop gave me more than enough to put one of my 246 blocks to good use on my mill for doing very small parts with light cuts. And as always, a great, well demonstrated and explained video Adam.
I'm not a machinist but I find this stuff fascinating. I do woodworking and this reminds me the technique of always having a reference surface to work from to ensure squareness, parallelism, etc.
Fascinating. Love the visual aids to really drive home the concepts fast and lock ‘em down in our memory banks. Thank you Adam 👍👍😎👍👍
I still find it amazing that such a small point of contact with so little pressure can hold the part against the fence. I know your not hogging material off but I can't help but squint in anticipation of a crash. Presumably you develop a feel over time. Thanks for sharing
This video had my Ears perk up immediately!!!! As 95% of everything I want to machine on my new Sherline Mill are those VERY SMALL PARTS! All for 1:25 detail scale auto model parts.😳
👉Been having fits trying to work with aluminum stock that's 1" long & 1/2" wide in a the Sherline Vice, 4 jaw chuck or hold straps & clamps🤓
I luv your communication delivery style with these videos- very easy to understand & follow-Well Done 💯💯💯
☯️ZenModeling☯️
Came across your channel today and have been binge watching since. Amazing Adam. Yourself and stefan gotteswinter are my heros.
As an aspiring amateur machinist really appreciate your clear presentation and video. I´ve just finished refurbishing a manual 612 suface grinder and now I have to learn how to drive the thing so this was perfect. Thanks!
Bravo! I have so much to learn and you are a very good teacher. Thank you.
Nicely done. That is a cute cube you got there.
All the best,
Tom
Excellent content and information! Outside of the videos that Stan created years ago, there's not a lot of quality grinding/measuring vids on YT. Some of the fantastic UA-camrs that have left comments on this vid further proves the point. Great job, thanks for sharing, & keep up the good work!
Great stuff Adam! I love your content and your style. I have learned so much from your videos.
I like that toolmakers cube. I would like to make one. I have made grinding blocks with different size steps and clamps
👍 really enjoy your videos. Please keep them coming. Thanks you!
Awesome video production/discussion/demonstration….tks for sharing
Gonna add to the construction paper demonstration consensus. Keep up the awesome work
Another extremely informative video, thank you Adam.
Glad you enjoyed it
I love your videos. Always something to learn.
One thing though. Audio levels are a bit inconsistent. In parts I need to turn up the volume, then quickly turn it down on another segment.
This is all great information i usually grind small parts with a very tiny vice. The parallels are always a problem though, im gonna start making one of the setups you displayed. Thanks for the amazing content Adam.👍
I like the visuals, looking forward to more videos.
Excellent video! Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Would love to see you do a series on tool room grinding. I think you would get a tremendous amount of views since there isn’t really any quality grinding videos out there.
What a hack!!!! 😂🤣 I’m kidding your a precision beast!! Love it ✌️💖&💡
Fantastic content. Thx.
Great teaching Adam.
Adam... How about a description of how to make the machinist cube (process steps in order). Saw, Mill, Drill, Tap, Heat Treat, Grind. I don't think you actually need to spend the time and actually make a second one, but going through the steps (and your paper models, WHICH ARE FANTASTIC BY THE WAY!!!!!!!!) would guide those less knowledgeable in the specific order of operations including stock to leave for heat treat movement, etc., etc.. Your delivery of content is done in a way that is comprehensive and basically, if one can make this cube CORRECTLY, fully understanding the steps and the why behind those steps, then there really isn't much in the way of typical square and flat work that can't be done... I think. Oh, the milling could be done with description of manual Bridgeport and then by CNC pathing around and then flip over to cut the deck off. Regardless, your doing a great job with this... we need more youth understanding HOW TO MAKE and then spending time with a spindle turning and their hands on a crank wheel.
More gold. Thank you, Adam!
LOVE THE GRAPHIC TOOLS THX
Great video on how to hold small parts. It looks like the next tool I need to make is a cube, like the idea of the fence being adjustable.
What about a video on grinding aluminum? I’ve watched the one SR did, even bought the wheel they recommended. One part I make is 4” x 2” one side is flat but needs to match up with the V-Grooves on the opposite side.
I used to use a fixed square block and a DTI to check for square then work to ultimate squareness (and Parallel) then end up using cigarette papers as shimming under one edge before a re-grind, or even a line of Permanent marker pen then a re-grind. Made some crazy accurate shit in one job.
Always informative and interesting. Thanks !
Another nice edit, thanks :)
Good information thank you
Very good exploded view of explaining
very good video adam
Your videos are packed full of information I never thought I would need to know! But so helpful to me in many ways. Easy to listen to and I hope you make more. Thank you very much! What steel did you use for the cube and the attachments? I need to make one of these.
I settled on a2 for all my tooling. There is certainly better , harder, stronger more wear resistant steel. But a2 works just fine for me
Big fan of the paper demos as always
Love the videos, fascinating to watch and learn from. If I could offer a small piece of advice, add a "trailer" or something to the end of your videos. UA-cam likes to display related videos overtop of the last couple seconds of each video, and it can't be turned off. Unfortunately for yours, it hides the last check you made.
Thank you!
Thanks Adam. Gilles
Ya know. Someone should do surface grinding techniques series...
:)
There's a lot I've picked up, but a lot I don't know yet...
I agree. Stan (shadonhkw Bar Z) has done some way back [called "The Grind"].....Adam here is doing a fantastic job.
This is pretty cool!
Is the tip of the screw hardened, or is it just a piece of mild steel thread? Very informative video. Thanks
Its just a regular SHCS ground to a cone, they peen over with use and I periodically touch them up. I've played around with different tips even some with ball joints , all are better on paper. But a regulars screw ground to a point work very well and arent fussy to make
5:08 - what is this magic pencil technique for setting the fence? 🤔
Adam, that adjustable cube vise is so cool!
Where can I get one?
I've looked all over and I don't see it anywhere.
Thanks! 🙂
It’s homemade
@adam the machinist Thank you!
It looks OEMish..... very pro looking!
👍👍👍
Really fantastic video! Quick question about the cube and in particular about the clamping screw. How did you determine the best angle for the screw itself so that it clamps both down to the block and against the rail, and I saw you tighten it with a very light pressure, but would not a small block between it and the part spread the clamping pressure and avoid any warping while allowing for a more secure (higher pressure) clamping? (in particular on flimsier or more complex parts)
I’ve played around with the angle a lot in my career and I haven’t found there to be an exact angle that works best, just a gradual angle pointed down is fine. Some toolmakers I known don’t bother making the clamps adjustable , they just tap a hole on an angle . As for a clamping block , it certainly wouldn’t hurt but I get by fine without it .
@@adamthemachinist Thank you very much! Your videos are really nice and informative, thanks for the time and effort you invest in them
Can you please share model of tool makers cube? We are making one currently. It is such a great idea. THANK YOU!
sweet lookin parts too
I have a bad habit of knocking on parts with one knuckle to feel if they are down in a vise or on a fixture. Its really easy to tell if theres the more boney dull thud of the machine casting thru your body or, s tap or click from the part. But its to easy to hurt my knuckles. I should see how I like a piece of wood.
👍👍as always. I recently as this question to Mr Crispin and I’ll ask you the same. I often see folks using a test indicator in the “fine measurement range” (0.001” - 0.002”) using a indicator with 0.0005” resolution. I have to wonder why they wouldn’t use an indicator with 0.0001” resolution? If this is a piece of equipment you are likely purchasing new (dollar for dollar) wouldn’t you go for a finer resolution? Seems you could get a more accurate assessment of a situation with a 0.0001” indicator vs a 0.0005” indicator. I’m sure there is more to why these 1/2 thou indicators get used but is there something I’m missing? Are tenth indicators more susceptible to damage and 1/2 thou more robust? Or could it be for hobbyists there is a large available of these on the second hand market?
You’ll will drive yourself nuts chasing the needle on a .0001.
The total range of a 1/2 thou indicator is much larger. For general work they really do most of what you need. Tenths indicators have a small range and when doing normal indicating chores are much too sensitive and lack the overall range for say dialing in a bore on the mill. Once you get on the surface plate that typically changes but it also depends on the class of work you are doing. If your flexing and using a tenths indicator on your Bridgeport you are fooling yourself into a false sense of accuracy by way of tool resolution.
Surface roughness also plays a factor into chasing the needle on a 0.0001" indicator, Adam's work could probably be fine for it, but for most a 0.0005" is fine. And to your final point, they're cheaper than 0.0001" indicators.
Lots of fine points listed so far . One more thing that makes a .0005 worth having is it’s lower gaging pressure . If you have a flimsy setup the gage is actually deflecting the part. This is handy if doing something like indicating a probe tip. You can have zero indicator movement on a renishaw probe and switch to a courser indicator and suddenly see a little runout. The gage pressure of the .0001 is pushing down the high spots of the ruby probe tip.
Hey Adam thanks for the informative tips!!... what brand of comparator is that sitting on your granite plate?
Squarol
Lovely set up. Did you make the cube and hardware?
Yep, sadly I haven’t really found a good commercial source for those
@@adamthemachinist very nice! This is the sort of thing that takes extra work to make up first time but saves so much every time you use it after. Looks great and thank you for the videos and the reply.
@@adamthemachinist Have you considered making and marketing them? You might have some buyers.
@@adamthemachinist - Do you harden shop made tools like the cube and similar? Man, if there was a source that made such things with the Renzetti universal 1-2-3 block pattern...
yep, the shop has parts going to heat treat once or twice a month so all tooling just gets tossed into those batches
My dumb a** thought you were using a pencil to tighten the rib there. 🤨 That said thank you as always for the insight; I truly am a freshman in a grad class here but I'm taking notes.
I had to go back and re-watch that section, I also thought that was a pencil 🤦🤦
Thank you very much for your videos!
What the surface grinder are you using? It's so quiet.
It’s a Parker Majestic , the spindle was recently rebuilt by Sopko , so it’s still pretty quiet
ua-cam.com/users/shortscaBm5lGKG2Y?feature=share Machining complete. Still needs heat treated, ground, and lapped. Wishing I made it smaller but still think it will work great
You wouldn't have a print or a solid model to share would you?
Hi Adam, I have a similar set up to yours but without a grinder (cnc mill/lathe and manual), I'm just starting out. Do you think a grinder is necessary? Also if you were purchasing a second hand one like yours, what sort of variation would you say is good over the entire x travel in flatness or other specs? Thanks.
It’s hard to say how necessary a piece of equipment is without knowing the work load. Being a tool shop I do lots of hardened steel and it’s very important to be able to grind . But a shop that does non ferrous may not see any need for a grinder
Hi really enjoyed the video. Did you make the tool makers cube? Or did you buy it. If you made it do you have drawings for it to share?
Yes it’s shopmade, but I don’t have any drawings. It’s just a 50mm cube with m5 tapped holes on a 10mm pitch
@@adamthemachinist did you make the attachments
@@adamthemachinist why the 10 mm pitch
its all homemade, the hole spacing pitch can be anything you want , 10mm just divided up evenly
Thank you I just started making one
Perfeito !
good vid.
Is your tool maker’s cube shop made or commercially available?
Shop made, I haven’t seen anything like this commercially available. Surface Grinder tooling is a hard market , anything you’ll be making is attempting to be sold to people that have the equipment to make said item . So you see lots of shop made stuff and only the very common stuff is sold commercially
Hemo makes something like a toolmakers cube for squaring. But a lot larger.
You have wonderful eyebrows ❤.
Oh thank you!
@@adamthemachinist You've a fixture for trimming them up on the Parker-Majestic, right? :)
How does one contact you? Site not working?
Im on Instagram and LinkedIn too, drop me a message
Took me way to long to realise that was not a pencil been used
lol. I’m really glad it wasn’t just me!
not really pertinent to your vid but do you know has anyone ever seen how Johansen used his wife's sewingg machine to lap his first set of gage blocks?