How does this compare with your track 350z if used solely as fast road car in the Lake District? I fancy both but prefer road trips and quiet back roads to have fun on rather than track days now I live miles away from a track.
I’d keep the 350z personally for what you want! I love them! I always get out with a huugee grin when I drive a 350z! Both different though, pros and cons! 350z obvs has a lovely v6 and more chillin, the mazda feels a lot more alert and nimble but lacks any real soul 😅.
Oh hell yeah, Carbotechs are certainly a step above mate. I've used them on some of the more track focussed cars with great success. Not cheap though are they!
@@CIRCUITDRIVERCARS Yeah, headline price is high, but they last so much longer than cheaper track pads so the cost per track mile probably isn't too bad.
@@stevecoates2270 Yeah Matt has found them to last well but the one's I have had I went to a bigger vented disc and ducting but they still didn't last very long 😅
Great job man, cool video! For your next driving videos, it could be possible to fix a camera on the pedalbox to watch your footwork please, it would be awesome and so informative! :D
@@CIRCUITDRIVERCARS no problem. Some good info particularly as I'm just buying my first NC. Coming from a Caterham 7 and I'm going to attempt to get as close as I can to that but with a few more creature comforts. I know it's a tall order but I'll see how I get on..
What are your thoughts on Ferodo DS Performance pads? They are a step below the ds2500 and I believe they were called ds2000 in the past. Ferodo say it is a fast road pad which is why I am consodering it and I would love to hear your recommendations for a good street pad.
Sorry bud, I've not tried them but have tried a few different flavours of Ferodo. The 2500/3000s work well and the DS Unos I had on my m135 were incredibly good... the only thing I would watch out for with Ferodo pads is the dust they create and they can be pretty aggressive on discs. PBS are a dusty pad too but the dust seems pretty friendly whereas the dust the Ferodos create is incredibly destructive! Sticks to your wheels like napalm haha! In all fairness though the 2000s etc might not be as bad for it but the DS Unos were terrible for it.... even if the performance was amazing!
Lol I wanted to give you a hug when you said the fluid was a key component and will be the weak link, so many noobs think they will get by or use "dot 5.1" lol. SRF is absolute king, on my Mini R53 I used to run solid disks, upgraded but still oem single piston calipers and carbotech xp10/12s with SRF and braided lines and what a massive difference that fluid makes. Finally someone speaking the truth on brakes on lighter cars (NC not that light in comparison to a mk1 but ykwim). Bigger brakes, good for stopping but not good for lots and lots of laps without breaks as they just have more heat to deal with. I use RBF660 in my mk1 and its fine, but only because I already had new unopened bottles at home and in date still (check you're fluid dates on new bottles are not over 2 years old). I haven't trusted going Meister R since cira 2010-2012 era, they were bloody awful back then, I guess using the customers as an R&D excersise over time has helped them make a better product... 👀.
Hahahaa! Amazing! It's so overlooked or cheaped out on and it's most often the reason for a spongey/long pedal!! Yess the RBF660 is good stuff, we always trusted ATE on the lighter cars, although I found the limit of the ATE in my 350z at Nurburgring haha! It's just so easy to recommend the SRF. It might be overkill for some but I'd rather be conservative and simple with advice where I can be! Fair enough on the MeisterRs. Very much personal pref. I was just surprised at how much better these feel over the basic ones I have had years back! Agreed on using customers as R&D! Matt helped develop his M140 offering! Thanks for watching bud, It's one of the more boring vids in this little series but needed covering! On to the fun bits like ITBs etc now haha!
@@ItziiSpiNz Its simply says nothing about its actual performance, 5.1 is just the dot rating, the wet and dry boiling points still vary a lot depending on what you get regardless of the rating it has. Castrol SRF is £85 and dot 4, Comma dot 5.1 is £13.... which do you think offers better performance?
@@batousan_ so what your saying is the DOT rating has no bearing on the wet and dry boiling points. I find that hard to believe as the dot rating is a iso standard. It cannot be called dot 5.1 if it doesn't meet the spec. I would be interested in you using cheap dot 5.1 for your next flush and see if there is a difference. DOT 5.1 meets my needs with a 200hp salon car. I suspect SRF would be needed in a 600hp gt3 car
@@ItziiSpiNz No I said it useless marker of performance. Its just a rating to suggest it meets the MINIMUM boiling points, a dot 4 SRF/Motul 660 can have a much higher wet/dry boil than cheap dot 5.1. 1. Motul 5.1 fluid has a dry/wet boiling point of 272°C / 185°C 2. Castrol SRF (dot 4) has a dry/wet boiling point of 310°C / 270°C 3. Motul RBF660 has a dry/wet boiling point of 325°C / 205°C So you can see here how using the dot rating of a fluid to see if it suits your application is not ideal. SRF isn't just for a GT3 car, a good dot 4 fluid is pretty much always better than a cheap 5.1 fluid its a very common noob track goer mistake to put 5.1 in. How do I know this? Because I was a noob once and I made that mistake, so I don't need to flush and try 5.1 because I already had, I can assure you its not enough for a 220hp car that weighs 1167kg, if it is you are not trying hard enough. Heck the previous owner of the last Exige with 300hp/800kg I drove on track ran 5.1 in it and we kept overheating the brakes at Cadwell (running AP calipers and floating disks) 😂😂
I installed meisterR clubrace on your recommendation in the comments on one of your previous videos. Was previously leaning towards the zeta CRDs but really pleased with the clubraces. Have them midpoint on damping and they are excellent. Possibly need to be softened a little but otherwise very pleased. Were they some non-BBR ITBs at the end of the video?
Oh wow! That's amazing to hear! Yess, it feels mad running them with dampers set mid way... I was normally one for playing within the last 4 upper clicks of damper adjustment on others haha! Really helps! They sure are!! I've gone stand alone ecu too! Off for mapping on Friday! Have been busy building them up over Christmas break :).
@@CIRCUITDRIVERCARS Look forward to video on ITBs then! Have you done cams/exhaust manifold as well like the BBR kit or just ITBs? Really interested to see what you've done with them and setup with the MAP sensor.
@@becauseiwasinverted7971 Me too!! I'll go into it all fully in a vid as it's been a bit of a whirlwind! Had a lot of problem solving to do but pretty much there now! I've not gone for cams as I have seen folk making great power without and it just simplifies things. I've gone Skunk2 manifold, AT Power ITBs and ME442 ecu. I tried an unsilenced and decat mid pipe but OMFG it was horrendous haha!
@@CIRCUITDRIVERCARS I used to use SRF in all my trackable cars, but 1) its pricey, and 2) it really doesn't have longevity after a season of track days you really need to replace it. I moved to the Motul RBF 660. For an MX5 this fluid is much better value, more than capable across the temp range, great pedal feel, and so much cheaper!
We have found the brakes are good but they tend to overheat very quickly when you are pushing on for a few laps. Would you say the venting has made much difference?
At the power and grip levels in my NC I've not suffered to be honest George so hard to comment. On other projects we have found the ducting to be very cost effective... even if it just prolongs pad life. I guess it depends on track too. I hate Blyton for how hard it is on the brakes... You probably have twice the brake wear on a day there compared with Donington haha!
@@CIRCUITDRIVERCARS Interesting to hear, thanks for sharing. It only tends to be when you're on it for 4+ laps or so on a dry track. We were looking at using Megane RS Brembo calipers with bigger disks, but some adjustment is needed, and possibly different wheels for clearance. The throttle bodies and exhaust look exciting - I am dreaming of doing the same some time too 🤣.
@@georgestokes3766 Ahhh fair! what pads and fluid do you use mate? Yes I like the Megane upgrade, Matt has used them before. Is that from Freaky Parts? Very excited to get the mk3 running on the ITBs, ME442 and Skunk2 manifold! I fit them over the Christmas break and off to have them mapped on Friday. Will get some dyno run vids :).
@@CIRCUITDRIVERCARS Yeah drawing inspiration from the freaky parts kit they have for sale. I dont recall what brake fluid we use, I will have to check with my dad. Brake pads are Roddisons and they work well on road and track. After a few laps there is too much heat build up, to the extent of discolouring the disks. In the stripped out mk1 you could skip around all day without it being an issue. That's why I've been thinking about a larger disk and caliper, weight loss isn't really an option because I still enjoy the car on the road. Your car should sound lovely now then! One of my biggest problems is I can hardly hear my own engine when on the track with others 🤣.
How does this compare with your track 350z if used solely as fast road car in the Lake District? I fancy both but prefer road trips and quiet back roads to have fun on rather than track days now I live miles away from a track.
I’d keep the 350z personally for what you want! I love them! I always get out with a huugee grin when I drive a 350z! Both different though, pros and cons! 350z obvs has a lovely v6 and more chillin, the mazda feels a lot more alert and nimble but lacks any real soul 😅.
I'm usually very hard on brakes, but had no issues with Carbotech pads, RBF660 fluid and everything else OEM.
Oh hell yeah, Carbotechs are certainly a step above mate. I've used them on some of the more track focussed cars with great success. Not cheap though are they!
@@CIRCUITDRIVERCARS Yeah, headline price is high, but they last so much longer than cheaper track pads so the cost per track mile probably isn't too bad.
@@stevecoates2270 Yeah Matt has found them to last well but the one's I have had I went to a bigger vented disc and ducting but they still didn't last very long 😅
@@CIRCUITDRIVERCARS Fair enough. I found the disks wore as quick as the pads!
@@stevecoates2270 Hahahaa! Some aggressive shiz!!!
Great job man, cool video! For your next driving videos, it could be possible to fix a camera on the pedalbox to watch your footwork please, it would be awesome and so informative! :D
Thank you! Oh yes, it's something we've been meaning to do for years. I'll try and get something set up!
What specs are those rpf1s? 😍 17x8?
Surely steel braided brake hoses are essential too ?
I mention braided lines at 1min 35 pal :).
@@CIRCUITDRIVERCARS I'm obviously deaf. Or blind. Or both. Lol
@@MikeKleinsteuber It's no problem at all pal :). Thanks for taking the time to watch the vid :).
@@CIRCUITDRIVERCARS no problem. Some good info particularly as I'm just buying my first NC. Coming from a Caterham 7 and I'm going to attempt to get as close as I can to that but with a few more creature comforts. I know it's a tall order but I'll see how I get on..
What are your thoughts on Ferodo DS Performance pads? They are a step below the ds2500 and I believe they were called ds2000 in the past. Ferodo say it is a fast road pad which is why I am consodering it and I would love to hear your recommendations for a good street pad.
Sorry bud, I've not tried them but have tried a few different flavours of Ferodo. The 2500/3000s work well and the DS Unos I had on my m135 were incredibly good... the only thing I would watch out for with Ferodo pads is the dust they create and they can be pretty aggressive on discs. PBS are a dusty pad too but the dust seems pretty friendly whereas the dust the Ferodos create is incredibly destructive! Sticks to your wheels like napalm haha! In all fairness though the 2000s etc might not be as bad for it but the DS Unos were terrible for it.... even if the performance was amazing!
Lol I wanted to give you a hug when you said the fluid was a key component and will be the weak link, so many noobs think they will get by or use "dot 5.1" lol. SRF is absolute king, on my Mini R53 I used to run solid disks, upgraded but still oem single piston calipers and carbotech xp10/12s with SRF and braided lines and what a massive difference that fluid makes. Finally someone speaking the truth on brakes on lighter cars (NC not that light in comparison to a mk1 but ykwim). Bigger brakes, good for stopping but not good for lots and lots of laps without breaks as they just have more heat to deal with.
I use RBF660 in my mk1 and its fine, but only because I already had new unopened bottles at home and in date still (check you're fluid dates on new bottles are not over 2 years old).
I haven't trusted going Meister R since cira 2010-2012 era, they were bloody awful back then, I guess using the customers as an R&D excersise over time has helped them make a better product... 👀.
Hahahaa! Amazing! It's so overlooked or cheaped out on and it's most often the reason for a spongey/long pedal!! Yess the RBF660 is good stuff, we always trusted ATE on the lighter cars, although I found the limit of the ATE in my 350z at Nurburgring haha!
It's just so easy to recommend the SRF. It might be overkill for some but I'd rather be conservative and simple with advice where I can be!
Fair enough on the MeisterRs. Very much personal pref. I was just surprised at how much better these feel over the basic ones I have had years back! Agreed on using customers as R&D! Matt helped develop his M140 offering!
Thanks for watching bud, It's one of the more boring vids in this little series but needed covering! On to the fun bits like ITBs etc now haha!
What's so bad about dot 5.1?
@@ItziiSpiNz Its simply says nothing about its actual performance, 5.1 is just the dot rating, the wet and dry boiling points still vary a lot depending on what you get regardless of the rating it has. Castrol SRF is £85 and dot 4, Comma dot 5.1 is £13.... which do you think offers better performance?
@@batousan_ so what your saying is the DOT rating has no bearing on the wet and dry boiling points. I find that hard to believe as the dot rating is a iso standard. It cannot be called dot 5.1 if it doesn't meet the spec. I would be interested in you using cheap dot 5.1 for your next flush and see if there is a difference.
DOT 5.1 meets my needs with a 200hp salon car. I suspect SRF would be needed in a 600hp gt3 car
@@ItziiSpiNz No I said it useless marker of performance. Its just a rating to suggest it meets the MINIMUM boiling points, a dot 4 SRF/Motul 660 can have a much higher wet/dry boil than cheap dot 5.1.
1. Motul 5.1 fluid has a dry/wet boiling point of 272°C / 185°C
2. Castrol SRF (dot 4) has a dry/wet boiling point of 310°C / 270°C
3. Motul RBF660 has a dry/wet boiling point of 325°C / 205°C
So you can see here how using the dot rating of a fluid to see if it suits your application is not ideal. SRF isn't just for a GT3 car, a good dot 4 fluid is pretty much always better than a cheap 5.1 fluid its a very common noob track goer mistake to put 5.1 in.
How do I know this? Because I was a noob once and I made that mistake, so I don't need to flush and try 5.1 because I already had, I can assure you its not enough for a 220hp car that weighs 1167kg, if it is you are not trying hard enough. Heck the previous owner of the last Exige with 300hp/800kg I drove on track ran 5.1 in it and we kept overheating the brakes at Cadwell (running AP calipers and floating disks) 😂😂
I installed meisterR clubrace on your recommendation in the comments on one of your previous videos. Was previously leaning towards the zeta CRDs but really pleased with the clubraces. Have them midpoint on damping and they are excellent. Possibly need to be softened a little but otherwise very pleased. Were they some non-BBR ITBs at the end of the video?
Oh wow! That's amazing to hear! Yess, it feels mad running them with dampers set mid way... I was normally one for playing within the last 4 upper clicks of damper adjustment on others haha! Really helps! They sure are!! I've gone stand alone ecu too! Off for mapping on Friday! Have been busy building them up over Christmas break :).
@@CIRCUITDRIVERCARS Look forward to video on ITBs then! Have you done cams/exhaust manifold as well like the BBR kit or just ITBs? Really interested to see what you've done with them and setup with the MAP sensor.
@@becauseiwasinverted7971 Me too!! I'll go into it all fully in a vid as it's been a bit of a whirlwind! Had a lot of problem solving to do but pretty much there now! I've not gone for cams as I have seen folk making great power without and it just simplifies things. I've gone Skunk2 manifold, AT Power ITBs and ME442 ecu. I tried an unsilenced and decat mid pipe but OMFG it was horrendous haha!
SRF rules
Fluid is soooo often the weak link isn't it! Once you go SRF, there's no going back!
@@CIRCUITDRIVERCARS I used to use SRF in all my trackable cars, but 1) its pricey, and 2) it really doesn't have longevity after a season of track days you really need to replace it. I moved to the Motul RBF 660. For an MX5 this fluid is much better value, more than capable across the temp range, great pedal feel, and so much cheaper!
Stop it I want one of these lol
Hahahaaa! Just make me an offer mid year 😅👍. Offer still stands if we are on the same TD come have a go.
Great advice as always and I nice teaser for the next video 🎷🎷🎷🎷🏁😎
Cheers bud, just a fairly boring one this one but had to be covered for completeness! Excited to get onto the ITB vid!!! Mapping this Friday!!
@@CIRCUITDRIVERCARS anything nc on UA-cam is good in my book.
We have found the brakes are good but they tend to overheat very quickly when you are pushing on for a few laps. Would you say the venting has made much difference?
At the power and grip levels in my NC I've not suffered to be honest George so hard to comment. On other projects we have found the ducting to be very cost effective... even if it just prolongs pad life. I guess it depends on track too. I hate Blyton for how hard it is on the brakes... You probably have twice the brake wear on a day there compared with Donington haha!
@@CIRCUITDRIVERCARS Interesting to hear, thanks for sharing. It only tends to be when you're on it for 4+ laps or so on a dry track. We were looking at using Megane RS Brembo calipers with bigger disks, but some adjustment is needed, and possibly different wheels for clearance.
The throttle bodies and exhaust look exciting - I am dreaming of doing the same some time too 🤣.
With the fluid, disk and pad changes he suggested?
@@georgestokes3766 Ahhh fair! what pads and fluid do you use mate? Yes I like the Megane upgrade, Matt has used them before. Is that from Freaky Parts? Very excited to get the mk3 running on the ITBs, ME442 and Skunk2 manifold! I fit them over the Christmas break and off to have them mapped on Friday. Will get some dyno run vids :).
@@CIRCUITDRIVERCARS Yeah drawing inspiration from the freaky parts kit they have for sale. I dont recall what brake fluid we use, I will have to check with my dad. Brake pads are Roddisons and they work well on road and track. After a few laps there is too much heat build up, to the extent of discolouring the disks. In the stripped out mk1 you could skip around all day without it being an issue. That's why I've been thinking about a larger disk and caliper, weight loss isn't really an option because I still enjoy the car on the road.
Your car should sound lovely now then! One of my biggest problems is I can hardly hear my own engine when on the track with others 🤣.
Sorry, cant find high carbon Brembos?
There's normally a little reference to them as 'HC' in the titles. Just blank Brembo discs will be great.
Thanks