You have inspired me to attempt building an electric 4 string canjo with as little money as possible. Once I do that I’m going to be making my own tea canjo. Thank you so much!!
I've been waiting for a build video since I saw the original one come out, so this is awesome! I'm planning on building one in the near future, is there any sort of a rough materials list? I'm also curious on the width measurements of the neck, as well as total width of the wings that go inside the can if you happen to know. Thanks!
Hey there! The neck is 30mm wide, and the part inside the can is about 85mm. For a parts list, I guess that would be lumber, wood glue, fret wire, tuning keys, an optional pickup + jack, and a few screws
The 2 inch cutoff blade's kerf on the harbor freight saw is 0.023 ? Wow, that's handy...(I use a harbor freight mighty mite with a 4 inch 0.023 jeweler's blade and a sled) Alignment of strings above the pole/metal plugs on a pickup for a stratocaster or telecaster is important, but in my experience for something like a canjo or even a cbg if the strings aren't over a pole it's no big deal, negligible .... of course using an acoustic based piezo pickup you will also get extraneous noise from just handling the canjo amplified, something a magnetic pickup will not do... That said it's a nice build
The 2" blade is probably .02". I found that the frets were slightly tight, so I just ran them all through the saw twice and they come out perfect. Agree with your notes on pickups!
I feel like the two sections that are missing are loose guides to material selection (namely the can and wood, or someone’s going to use generic home depot 2x4 and be disappointed), and guides to design decisions for someone just starting out who may not know much about what they want to do with the end product yet; string numbers fand tuner arrangement or instance. I feel like generally it’s styled in a loose guide for accessability, which I understand, but a brief word on those would be helpful.
Great points! Just to reply to them - I used cherry wood here. Nearly any hardwood would work, and some "softer" woods as well. A 2x4 could do in a pinch, but you'd be fighting it the whole way. I used these tin cans since they're widely available, but outside of these you might just need to try different items and see how they sound. The number of strings depend on how solid the construction is. Tin is a really soft metal, so I limited it to 3 strings, and even that still caused trouble which forced me to re-think the tailpiece. More strings = more tension on everything.
@@thornbloominstruments I'm actually surprised that it's so forgiving to lower quality woods. So in theory you could make this a four string with the right design of the tailpiece/ bridge area, perhaps with an internal reinforcement for the bridge, or do you think would that affect the acoustics? Do you think the bottom hole in the Earl Grey canjo negatively affected acoustics? Are the screws in the side strictly necessary, or could the can be held on by friction via the bridge and attachments through the endpiece? Also I was quite surprised that adding the electric element would be that simple!
@@farmerboy916since the bridge is over the braced neck in the tin (and directly against the underside of the tin) that brace and neck takes all of the string tension, ideally there should be no tension on the tin... and I saw no need to make a new tailpiece, he could have just used a pair of pliers to crimp the tin overhang down enough to allow free action of the strings to the bridge... AND now that I've watched the video again more closely I see the brace does not lie flat against the interior of the tin, there is a space and that would indeed be a problem for string tension. That would be eliminated by inserting a bridge width sized piece of wood to contact the underside of the tin much like a bridge post in a violin keeps the soundboard from cracking under the string tension...
You really have nothing to worry about for length; it’s not overly technical though I personally wouldn’t mind that. Great style, very well edited and produced. An average person may have some difficulty but it shouldn’t be insurmountable with some googling
Hope ya'll enjoy! Leave me a comment if I missed anything, some parts got cut for length.
You have inspired me to attempt building an electric 4 string canjo with as little money as possible. Once I do that I’m going to be making my own tea canjo. Thank you so much!!
I'd love to see it!
Killing it Kevin! you've got a future in cans and can related instruments.
sweet job
Love that tea too.
I've been waiting for a build video since I saw the original one come out, so this is awesome! I'm planning on building one in the near future, is there any sort of a rough materials list? I'm also curious on the width measurements of the neck, as well as total width of the wings that go inside the can if you happen to know. Thanks!
Hey there! The neck is 30mm wide, and the part inside the can is about 85mm. For a parts list, I guess that would be lumber, wood glue, fret wire, tuning keys, an optional pickup + jack, and a few screws
Awesome!
This was awesome to watch! Any info on your laser etcher?
Great build! Could you write down the measurements for the neck?
THANK YOU SO MUCHHHH
Great video! I'm always curious--what do these sound like without the electronics? Do they do more for the sound than just give volume?
Awesome
круто. сделай так русскую балалайку "balalayka" и сыграй коробейников "korobeyniki" из фильма "snatch!")))
The 2 inch cutoff blade's kerf on the harbor freight saw is 0.023 ? Wow, that's handy...(I use a harbor freight mighty mite with a 4 inch 0.023 jeweler's blade and a sled)
Alignment of strings above the pole/metal plugs on a pickup for a stratocaster or telecaster is important, but in my experience for something like a canjo or even a cbg if the strings aren't over a pole it's no big deal, negligible .... of course using an acoustic based piezo pickup you will also get extraneous noise from just handling the canjo amplified, something a magnetic pickup will not do...
That said it's a nice build
The 2" blade is probably .02". I found that the frets were slightly tight, so I just ran them all through the saw twice and they come out perfect. Agree with your notes on pickups!
I love this! Would you ever consider selling these? (not the exact ones in the vid but maybe other ones?) :)
I feel like the two sections that are missing are loose guides to material selection (namely the can and wood, or someone’s going to use generic home depot 2x4 and be disappointed), and guides to design decisions for someone just starting out who may not know much about what they want to do with the end product yet; string numbers fand tuner arrangement or instance. I feel like generally it’s styled in a loose guide for accessability, which I understand, but a brief word on those would be helpful.
Great points! Just to reply to them - I used cherry wood here. Nearly any hardwood would work, and some "softer" woods as well. A 2x4 could do in a pinch, but you'd be fighting it the whole way. I used these tin cans since they're widely available, but outside of these you might just need to try different items and see how they sound. The number of strings depend on how solid the construction is. Tin is a really soft metal, so I limited it to 3 strings, and even that still caused trouble which forced me to re-think the tailpiece. More strings = more tension on everything.
@@thornbloominstruments I'm actually surprised that it's so forgiving to lower quality woods. So in theory you could make this a four string with the right design of the tailpiece/ bridge area, perhaps with an internal reinforcement for the bridge, or do you think would that affect the acoustics? Do you think the bottom hole in the Earl Grey canjo negatively affected acoustics?
Are the screws in the side strictly necessary, or could the can be held on by friction via the bridge and attachments through the endpiece?
Also I was quite surprised that adding the electric element would be that simple!
@@farmerboy916since the bridge is over the braced neck in the tin (and directly against the underside of the tin) that brace and neck takes all of the string tension, ideally there should be no tension on the tin... and I saw no need to make a new tailpiece, he could have just used a pair of pliers to crimp the tin overhang down enough to allow free action of the strings to the bridge...
AND now that I've watched the video again more closely I see the brace does not lie flat against the interior of the tin, there is a space and that would indeed be a problem for string tension. That would be eliminated by inserting a bridge width sized piece of wood to contact the underside of the tin much like a bridge post in a violin keeps the soundboard from cracking under the string tension...
I was wondering, can you play this as an acoustic as well as electric?
Definitely! ua-cam.com/users/shortsF-EJqeRXOns?si=iNF_0LxB8SFIfZRE
You really have nothing to worry about for length; it’s not overly technical though I personally wouldn’t mind that. Great style, very well edited and produced. An average person may have some difficulty but it shouldn’t be insurmountable with some googling