Ivan, I am 70 years old and this vid brings back so many memories when you repair things like the starter motor. Really old school mechanics like dynamo, control box, twin su carbs. I am convinced you can sort out the clutch as they were not difficult to replace. Borg & Beck I believe. Brilliant car, TR4 really is a true classic.
I am currently rebuilding a batch of 7 of those starters for Land Rovers. I rebuild starters. I have parts for those M418G. I 3D print the dust cover over the CE bush. The through bolts can short on the field windings. I put some shrink sleeving on the bolts. I am in New Brunswick Canada.
Top tip with SU's full choke is always required when cold starting. As the choke doesn't actually choke the air, but increases the fuel flow through the main fuel jet.
Add to it that pumping the throttle with the engine not running doesn't do anything at all on SU carburetors since they don't have an acceleration pump. All you do is flapping with the butterfly valves.
In the 70s, we used to say " Lucas Lighting is the Prince of Darkness." Thank you for all your work Ivan. I thoroughly enjoy being back in the garage from my recliner.
I remember this show called THE TEN BEST....The host was going thru a list of classic cars. When he got to a British car, he said oh yeah...Lucas electrics. Then he said why do Brits drink warm beer??? Because refrigerators are made by Lucas. God I laughed hysterically.
@@greghanlon2235 As bad as British cars were...the Germans have manged to lower their bar to or below British. At one time German cars were the envy of the world and then the Japanese showed up.
@@mikefoehr235 Totally agree. Toyota or Honda guy here. My Element has 253K on original engine and doesn't burn oil and electronics are almost perfect (except for an air bag issue I inherited from previous owner).
@@greghanlon2235 I am on my 4th Toyota. My had the Corolla and now the RAV 4. I had a Tacoma and now a Tundra....the real one with the v8. The 5.7 v8 is damn close to hell and fury. It does not lack power. It is almost scary. The reliability of Toyota is second to none and Honda is literally right behind. The only issue with Honda can be transmissions at times and those earth dreams engines. I am sure they will overcome those issues to.
My method of releasing a clutch from the flywheel was putting the rear on jack stands so the wheels are off the ground, put it in the highest gear, start the engine to get the wheels turning, depress the clutch then hit the brakes.
Not neglected. Someone took care to make sure there was no fuel in the carbs. He took off the sediment bowl and just let the engine run until the carbs ran dry. It appears, after that, he also drained the fuel pump but put it back together wrong. Or he disabled it to prevent it from spraying fuel out through the removed sediment bowl.
Awesome video. Takes me back to my younger days. Clean points with the strike paper off a book of matches. Set the points with the cellophane off your cigarette pack close enough to get you running again.
This is the shytt...im an old dog wrench over 50 yrs and love bringing them back..this weeks adventure is a 49 Packard, most excellent engineering i must say....carry on weed hopper~!
12:46 a few more issues - you've barely started, Ivan. Bleed the brakes, adjust the handbrake, adjust the timing/spark plugs, check the steering and tracking, tune the mixture, clean the horn for louder sound, do all the grease nipples, check wheel bearings, lubricate the hood/roof/boot, wash and polish, change the oil and filter, air filter, gearbox and rear diff oil,
Not without their faults but a pleasure to work on compared to modern junk. The oil leaks are just automatic rust proofing systems so win win 😂 I would guess there should be a filter in that glass bowl similar to the malpassi filters.
Wow, 50 years work done in a few hours, the joys of old time motoring, I really enjoyed the show so far, makes you wonder what else is going to fail, can't wait for the road test 🇬🇧
I’m really enjoying your troubleshooting skills. I have almost exactly the same vehicle but it’s a ‘65 model. I’m just waiting on some free time to get started on my project. You make it look relatively simple.
We used to say "LUCAS, prince of Darkness" when we worked on our TR3. We also described the Smiths Heater output almost a hot as a "Hampster blowing thru a straw" Loved that car, so much fun!
You probably know this . That has a dynamo and they don't normally make voltage on low revs as soon as you lifted the revs it charges one of the nightmares we had for years here in the UK. Great video
Awesome work so far Ivan! I just love how almost everything on this car is completely serviceable. Including the starter and fuel delivery system. Just got to sort out the clutch issue and we got a nice little scoot to cruise around in.
Last video but I haven’t heard the word Soviet in some time. I love the automatic watches from the Soviet era the Vostok being the most common I think? Anyway
Thanks, us older guys grew up with all these problems, most were easy to sort. With the stuck clutch plate you have to be a bit brutal sometimes, I once had to take the engine out to fix this, but not too hard on these old cars. This car looks like it has been restored but never really finished off before storage. The rear brake adjusters are usually seized and the square head adjusting screw usually rounded off,most jobs were done with a hammer a screwdriver and an adjustable spanner(wrench) and a pair of Moles (vice grip), and a lot of swearing. Balancing twin SUs was always a problem, we just listened to the airflow in each intake and tried to match them. Starter motors often stuck, you could release them with a spanner on the square end of the rotor, or just rock the car in gear, also often just replace the brushes, quick and easy to do on these old cars. Good luck with the clutch.
Well theres a blast from the past, I used to work on them in the 70' far better than the 5, and more reliable than the 6. Basic but always worked, sounds a bit like me , basic but works😊. Cant wait to find out what broke ? Regards Richard
Great video , the simple things you could deal with, and get up and running. I had snapped a clutch cable on my Opel GT and was able to drive it back to NY from PA with a little start in gear and finagling , The good old days!
The best way I release a clutch is to just start it in gear and drive it.. It's more likely to come loose as you thrash around and romp on the gas and tap the brakes, etc. etc.. Much easier to do while it's moving; use that momentum to your advantage. Then again, the slave could just be bad.
I don’t miss working on them. Even after NOT sitting for years it was always one thing after another. We always (jokingly) sold the owners a tow strap with every service. This car is probably worth not giving up on like the Infiniti. This one is fun to drive in between breakdowns 😊
The fuel pump has a "split linkage" and won't hand prime if it's on the cam on the camshaft. Enjoying watching you getting stuck into this with NO electronic diagnostic plugs.
Nice project! Had a tractor that would not let go of the clutch. Finally towed it without the clutch depressed, and once it was in enough of a bind, I hit the clutch and it broke free the first time.
With british cars don't press the clutch when starting they have a carbon clutch release beariing which causes more engine friction when the clutch is deptessed. The clutch friction disc is stuck to the flywheel, the quick and dirty trick to free is jack the rear wheels clear of the deck start the car car in a high gear depress the clutch give it raised RPM and jam on the foot brake hard.
What a series of issues! Having been there myself, I find it so believable - even expected. Glad the glass bowl was found - I think Tractor Supply has those, if they fit. I'm concerned the clutch disc center may have yielded to the torque during the freeing attempt. I don't think it would have been possible to free it any other way without the same results other than taking it apart. Refreshing to see work on a vehicle like that!
Ivan mentioned a few times that the glass bowl was missing. There were two small boxes on the garage floor and it was in one of them. You didn’t have to be Sherlock Holmes to find it did you. I would have done the work on the car in a different order to Ivan but hey ho.
@@larrybe2900 Like, 'critical part missing'->check boxes on floor labeled 'car parts'-> start car without jerryrigged fuel system hack risking burning down the whole storage facility... just a thought..
Whatever failed was clearly VERY weak to begin with and probably wouldn't have made it out of the parking lot under its own power. Simply rolling the car in 2nd gear shouldn't transmit much torque through the drivetrain compared to normal driving. From the car's perspective, being pulled along in 2nd gear isn't any different than just releasing the throttle while rolling and letting the engine slow the car down, which we do all the time without incident.
Ivan check the pistons of the SU carburetors they should fall free after lifting. The damper needs oil, I prefer ATF instead of SAE 30 single grade. ATF have a more steady viscositiy thats why. I worked often on Volvo Amazona and 140 series with SU 6 Carb's. If there is an oil temp meter keep the engine below 2.000 revs till the oil is at 60 centigrade. Good luck
Lucas. Prince of Darkness. When we found that problem at my Dad's shop we would remove the old insulator, then wrap that wire with electrician tape and add a slight bend to the wire. It worked well. We found that problem in GM, Ford and Prestolite starters. Maybe a new clutch in this car's future? Hopefully not a damaged transmission.
I know the feeling(s) - been there, done that with old vehicles. One NEVER knows what challenge will be the last one. My worst was a 1940's ex-military ambulance that I had been using for desert outings. We decided to use it for a family trip through several western states. We were in Texas when the rear ring gear shed a tooth. We had to rent a U-Haul truck to tow it back to SoCal. Fun and games.
To be kind to Lucas that starter has been rebuilt (badly) in the past. For the clutch unstick a higher gear is preferable, stresses the weak axle less too.
"Lucas electronics, welcome to the dark ages." All I can focus on is the red dash light, I'm not sure but I would think that its a low/no oil pressure light? I stand corrected, that light appears to be for the generator/alternator charging status.
The TR4 is a wonderful car to drive. You'll enjoy it when you've got it on the road. By the way it's not an E-Brake it's a Hand-Brake, personally I prefer Hand-Brakes to the modern E-Brakes...you just need to glance at or feel the Hand-Brake lever to know if it's on or not. The fuel pump works off of the cam-shaft, everything works off of electrics these days...a retrograde step in my view Good luck 👍
Aircraft piston engines still have an engine-driven fuel pump. As a backup during takeoff and landing for low-wing aircraft, there is a second electric fuel pump. High-wing aircraft omit the electric fuel pump because the fuel can gravity feed.
I repair vehicles full time - my own personal "cut-off" point for stuff I want as my own is 1988 or Lexus. I drive a 1987 as my daily. Reasons being as seen in this video - you can fix stuff using a hammer. Lexus don't need fixing, so they're alright too by me - even the modern ones, like the one my missus drives. No, I don't want to have to work on her car.. Lexus..
If clutch plate are stuck to flywheel, put in gear step on brake, and try turn key, or put car on road put in first gear turn key car starts driving press clutch pedal and brake when in motion it may pop lose. If not and IG there's a flywheel cover, take off loosen pressure plate pray lose clutch plate
The absence of a voltage meter is because the car has a dynamo rather than an alternator. Most british cars in the lower price range of that era didn't have an ammeter just the red ign light
Isnt it nice to be able to see whats wrong with a cars components and have easy access, rather than the modern gynacological/ do what the computer says. I had a Triumph Stag years ago, another cool design.
Its interesting how "debris" that is built up as a slightly oily dust can freeze up a clutch and other parts after sitting for years. I'd bet a can of WD40 would help that rig in many ways. At least this is more fun and traceable than modern computer vehicles.
The Triumph owner might read this: Is your glass fuel sediment bowl 2" OD 2" 1/2" or is it 2" 3/4"? On fuel bowls the O.D. varies, as does the height of the fuel bowl. Of course one won't fit the other! It's very easy to buy the wrong one, Likely costs around $10 with shipping. Can be found at some farm/tractor supply stores, and EBay. It's a pain to find these, they'll never be delivered when you want them. With the fuel bowl you'll need a 'Glass Fuel Bowl **Bail**' [adjustable bail] It's very likely you'll need this in that car's future (trust me here). Sometimes these break and you'll lose both the bail and the fuel bowl will fall off, you'll never find either on the road And, several gaskets to fit the fuel bowl. (any kind you can find that fits that size bowl). These bowls work well, it's just very difficult to find a replacement when you need one.
Ivan you can pump the accelerator until the cows come home with SU's but they don't squirt fuel! They work on Vacuum/Venturi! On my old Race Car I used to have to physically squirt Petrol into them or onto the Filters to get it to Fire up on Methanol!
Jesus, Ivan!! That sure takes me back lol. Used to drive TR4 triumph!! Back in the old days. Zippy little car, lol. Those carbs are so easy to work on lol. My uncle used to work for Lucas, i used to get plentiful of parts whenever i needed them lol. Hahaha man took me back in the 80s days lol. Nice vid, Ivan. Great series!
the lucas boxes was also fitted on ford it was the first thing to look at when battery not charging ,ford escorts to cortina and i think granada and capri most old uk cars was fitted that way easy to fix .
Dang! When all the other problems were sorted out, the clutch went from stuck to freewheeling. Tough luck, Ivan! I hope you don't have to take the clutch apart to sort it out...
Technically there are quite a few different parts of the transmission, overdrive (if fitted) or axle that _could_ have been busted and cause this symptom, but hopefully it's something easy and cheap to fix.
Getting that charging system working is exactly like what it took when I worked on an ex-neighbor's 1936 Plymouth Business Coupe. In fact this whole car seems to be equivalent to the tech of that Plymouth. And getting it running seems to be the same process. Fiddle with the carb, fiddle with the fuel pump, fiddle with the voltage regulator. Checks out.
Hi Ivan, I suggested you look in the boxes for the fuel bowl. Now I ask you to look in the boxes for the service manuals, especially the fuel pump assembly, then the clutch assembly. Turning out to be a great car considering the storage time.
Having taught me so much about modern car electronics and how to diagnose if it is a wire fray or a fried module: finally, a video where I can shout at the screen!!!! I am not a Triumph "sports car" fan. Just a basic, tarted up Austin designed engine with a badge. You have to understand what the Army taught the British Motor Industry in WW 2 after Dunquerke. about commonality of parts for supply and maintenance and mechanic's training to grasp fully what you are dealing with. The AC type fuel lift pump with attached glass bowl water trap was a common component on many vehicles of the time. The small hole in the priming lever was often fitted with an upright wire extension with a finger sized loop on the upper end to facilitate hand priming without the need to get so intimate with the oily bits. 6 volt batteries had proved insufficient in the War and 12 volt batteries were not what they are today. Etc. Etc. Etc. I could write you a book. The clutch? A butcher's solution, sadly. Only 55 years + experience of old, vintage and swamped military vehicles that were not properly prepared for deep fording.to call on so, I could be wrong. Long term standing will allow damp to cause the clutch driven plate lining to "gently weld" itself to the flywheel. Old Bedford trucks allowed a lower inspection cover whereby you could turn the whole assembly to loosen the pressure plate bolts. gently tap the frozen mating surface free and re-tighten without separating the engine and gearbox. Only lasted 20 years, so not a permanent fix. No parts required. Lucas was the dominant manufacturer of vehicle electrical parts in those days. Wiper blades fitted everything from a Morris 1000 to a Landrover, to a Heavy Military truck. Chromed blade holder if it was for a posh car. Just walk in the store and get a part that fitted nearly everything. So simple then. Then we got "clever"?
Well, looks like we have a few leaks. Looking at the radiator, there appear to be a few green crusties on the metal fins. So, I would be willing to bet the radiator will need some attention. The engine did start and run better than the Zaporozhets 966; however, I'll bet it doesn't have its off-road capabilities. You could climb a mountain with that thing. Also, while it is older, it didn't sit idle as long. (1963 vs. 1971 for the ZAZ. I think the ZAZ had sat since 1992; the year some Russian kid came to this country, for which we are all thankful!) You would NEVER have a coolant leak with a 966. That starter bears an uncanny resemblence to the starter on my 8N Ford tractor. It even sounds the same when the bendix kicks out. GREAT VIDEO!
Just a caution to your nice work!.......unless I missed it! -I don't see an emergency fire extinguisher handy! I know that that is a good idea because I had a '79 VW Westphalia camper burn up in minutes because I didn't have a fire extinguisher handy when I statrted it and there was a fuel leak(pancake engine with fuel injection) Thanks!!
Since SU carbs don’t have an accelerator pump, pumping the gas before start doesn’t do anything. On acceleration, the dashpot oil slows the rise in the piston, resulting in higher air velocity over the jet and hence more fuel.
When you put the bolt back in the starter you should have put some heat shrink on it & when you got it tight shrink it down would have given moreinsulation as for the clutch it was probably welded to the flywheel & eithe damaged the throw out bearing or the fork.Good luck be nice to see it run under it's own power.
Use a little Permatex Ultra-black RTV over that electrical tape and it should be fine. Electrical tape + RTV would hold for a pretty long time but I'd finish it off with a small wrap of cloth wire harness tape over top the RTV. Doesn't need a lot. RTV + Wire harness tape is secret weapon in situations where you need to run wiring and there is no place to zip tie to and no place to tuck the wires into as it will stick to just about any surface. The cloth wire harness tape creates a more solid connection within the RTV and holds pretty securely.
I forgot. The car is positive grounded. You have patience of a saint to work one of most finicky British era cars. All of them you have to be an zealot to own one. But is good to go over these very basic engines. Trstiment to good quality aluminium since thd fuel bowels are not rotted out.
Hi I was watching you on UA-cam with the starter motor and the bolt shorting to the field coil. If my memory is correct they had a sleeve like a straw that the bolt went through too stop this happening , but it was a very long time ago .
ivan, you prove there is a HUGE difference between a mechanic & a parts installer.you are a dying breed.
Wow this looks like way more fun than analyzing cam shaft position waveforms😅
Ivan, I am 70 years old and this vid brings back so many memories when you repair things like the starter motor. Really old school mechanics like dynamo, control box, twin su carbs. I am convinced you can sort out the clutch as they were not difficult to replace. Borg & Beck I believe. Brilliant car, TR4 really is a true classic.
I am currently rebuilding a batch of 7 of those starters for Land Rovers. I rebuild starters. I have parts for those M418G. I 3D print the dust cover over the CE bush. The through bolts can short on the field windings. I put some shrink sleeving on the bolts. I am in New Brunswick Canada.
My money’s on the clutch friction disc being in several pieces now. Here in the UK we used to have Lucas parts shops…always busy for some reason😀
Top tip with SU's full choke is always required when cold starting. As the choke doesn't actually choke the air, but increases the fuel flow through the main fuel jet.
Add to it that pumping the throttle with the engine not running doesn't do anything at all on SU carburetors since they don't have an acceleration pump.
All you do is flapping with the butterfly valves.
Nice find on the starter tear down. Engine spin a lot faster post repair. Engine bay in this 60 year old gem is very clean. Surely a real fun cruiser.
I noticed the better starter performance when it was getting full current to the armature!
In the 70s, we used to say " Lucas Lighting is the Prince of Darkness." Thank you for all your work Ivan. I thoroughly enjoy being back in the garage from my recliner.
I remember this show called THE TEN BEST....The host was going thru a list of classic cars. When he got to a British car, he said oh yeah...Lucas electrics. Then he said why do Brits drink warm beer??? Because refrigerators are made by Lucas. God I laughed hysterically.
@@mikefoehr235 Lol. Wasn't a close second Magnetii Marelli? I did a lot of Italian cars back then.
@@greghanlon2235 As bad as British cars were...the Germans have manged to lower their bar to or below British. At one time German cars were the envy of the world and then the Japanese showed up.
@@mikefoehr235 Totally agree. Toyota or Honda guy here. My Element has 253K on original engine and doesn't burn oil and electronics are almost perfect (except for an air bag issue I inherited from previous owner).
@@greghanlon2235 I am on my 4th Toyota. My had the Corolla and now the RAV 4. I had a Tacoma and now a Tundra....the real one with the v8. The 5.7 v8 is damn close to hell and fury. It does not lack power. It is almost scary. The reliability of Toyota is second to none and Honda is literally right behind. The only issue with Honda can be transmissions at times and those earth dreams engines. I am sure they will overcome those issues to.
My method of releasing a clutch from the flywheel was putting the rear on jack stands so the wheels are off the ground, put it in the highest gear, start the engine to get the wheels turning, depress the clutch then hit the brakes.
it's running well mostly because the old owner had the for-thought to drain all the fuel out of it
And ..... moving forward use the extra effort to buy non-ethanol gas. If not, there will be a whole host of new problems.
very true the fuel pump won't be long for this world. but where can you get that stuff, not in my area that I know of, If I could I would use it.
Rich
I was wondering why it cranked that slow with a new battery. Got the answer👍
So refreshing to see the old car problems. The good old days. Ivan you got this in the bag. Guarantied
More like he's got a box of broken bits in the bag! 🤣
Back in 1971, I wanted that red TR6 on the showroom floor in Raleigh, NC and considered trading my Mustang for it. I'm really glad I didn't!!!
It’s a 60 year old car that’s been neglected for ten years, I think we could forgive it a few leaks, regardless of its place of manufacture.
Good point. I'm 66 and I'm springing leaks all over. lol.
Limey!
You must be British lol.
Yanks love to beat on cars that are from other countries. They forget the utter dross they’ve produced over the years.
Not neglected. Someone took care to make sure there was no fuel in the carbs. He took off the sediment bowl and just let the engine run until the carbs ran dry.
It appears, after that, he also drained the fuel pump but put it back together wrong. Or he disabled it to prevent it from spraying fuel out through the removed sediment bowl.
Awesome video. Takes me back to my younger days. Clean points with the strike paper off a book of matches. Set the points with the cellophane off your cigarette pack close enough to get you running again.
This is the shytt...im an old dog wrench over 50 yrs and love bringing them back..this weeks adventure is a 49 Packard, most excellent engineering i must say....carry on weed hopper~!
I really enjoy this type of video where you slowly work through one issue at a time to get the “old girl” on the road again.
12:46 a few more issues - you've barely started, Ivan.
Bleed the brakes, adjust the handbrake, adjust the timing/spark plugs, check the steering and tracking, tune the mixture, clean the horn for louder sound, do all the grease nipples, check wheel bearings, lubricate the hood/roof/boot, wash and polish, change the oil and filter, air filter, gearbox and rear diff oil,
Not without their faults but a pleasure to work on compared to modern junk.
The oil leaks are just automatic rust proofing systems so win win 😂
I would guess there should be a filter in that glass bowl similar to the malpassi filters.
Good going Ivan, simplicity at its finest.
I think there should be a brass mesh strainer at the top of the fuel bowl.
I'm rooting for the "who knows how old" cork-rubber fuel pump bowl gasket to not leak. They weren't great in the 70s.
Love the comments about the Zaz. I had never heard of them!
This is something else, really like it.
That car has proven itself a winner so far. All easily tepairable items. Good Luck with the clutch.
Oh the simplicity, got to love it. What a fun one.
That sound of the engine cranking over sound just like my Farmall tractor
Great seeing a video about older technology
Wow! Shade tree mechanics having a field day!
Wow, 50 years work done in a few hours, the joys of old time motoring, I really enjoyed the show so far, makes you wonder what else is going to fail, can't wait for the road test 🇬🇧
The TR4 engine can be started with a crank handle, you'll see the hole for it between the grill and the lower body panel @ 25:34
But there's no hole in the radiator 🤔😄
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics If you left the old lower rad hose in place you could have "modified" the rad with no fluid loss...🤓
I’m really enjoying your troubleshooting skills. I have almost exactly the same vehicle but it’s a ‘65 model. I’m just waiting on some free time to get started on my project. You make it look relatively simple.
Love it. The clutch disk has been stuck on that flywheel surface in the same location for 10 years.
We used to say "LUCAS, prince of Darkness" when we worked on our TR3.
We also described the Smiths Heater output almost a hot as a "Hampster blowing thru a straw"
Loved that car, so much fun!
Another reason for excessive current draw on the starter is worn bushings . There is one on each end .
You probably know this . That has a dynamo and they don't normally make voltage on low revs as soon as you lifted the revs it charges one of the nightmares we had for years here in the UK. Great video
Nice to see a car that has all the parts right in front of you. No need to spend hours removing parts to get at the part you need to fix.
Awesome work so far Ivan! I just love how almost everything on this car is completely serviceable. Including the starter and fuel delivery system. Just got to sort out the clutch issue and we got a nice little scoot to cruise around in.
Last video but I haven’t heard the word Soviet in some time. I love the automatic watches from the Soviet era the Vostok being the most common I think? Anyway
Lots of fun watching the puzzle get solved. Thank you Ivan!
You are getting good at cliff hangers!
at 25:33 it looks like it has a hole in the grille for a hand start crank handle
Thanks, us older guys grew up with all these problems, most were easy to sort. With the stuck clutch plate you have to be a bit brutal sometimes, I once had to take the engine out to fix this, but not too hard on these old cars.
This car looks like it has been restored but never really finished off before storage. The rear brake adjusters are usually seized and the square head adjusting screw usually rounded off,most jobs were done with a hammer a screwdriver and an adjustable spanner(wrench) and a pair of Moles (vice grip), and a lot of swearing. Balancing twin SUs was always a problem, we just listened to the airflow in each intake and tried to match them.
Starter motors often stuck, you could release them with a spanner on the square end of the rotor, or just rock the car in gear, also often just replace the brushes, quick and easy to do on these old cars.
Good luck with the clutch.
Well theres a blast from the past, I used to work on them in the 70' far better than the 5, and more reliable than the 6. Basic but always worked, sounds a bit like me , basic but works😊.
Cant wait to find out what broke ?
Regards Richard
Great video , the simple things you could deal with, and get up and running. I had snapped a clutch cable on my Opel GT and was able to drive it back to NY from PA with a little start in gear and finagling , The good old days!
The best way I release a clutch is to just start it in gear and drive it.. It's more likely to come loose as you thrash around and romp on the gas and tap the brakes, etc. etc.. Much easier to do while it's moving; use that momentum to your advantage. Then again, the slave could just be bad.
great observation on that starter!
I don’t miss working on them. Even after NOT sitting for years it was always one thing after another. We always (jokingly) sold the owners a tow strap with every service. This car is probably worth not giving up on like the Infiniti. This one is fun to drive in between breakdowns 😊
A true project car - always something.
I love seeing old automotive technology and how things were built decades ago. Thanks Ivan for the series, very entertaining stuff!
The fuel pump has a "split linkage" and won't hand prime if it's on the cam on the camshaft. Enjoying watching you getting stuck into this with NO electronic diagnostic plugs.
Nice project! Had a tractor that would not let go of the clutch. Finally towed it without the clutch depressed, and once it was in enough of a bind, I hit the clutch and it broke free the first time.
1st car was a 1964 TR4. Brings back memories....Always had British tools and gloves to drive this car...🙂 Fun video...
What a little pearler of a car😁 most cars these days will be stuffed in 10 years and that English beauty runs like a top. 👏
Love your tenacity, Ivan!
With british cars don't press the clutch when starting they have a carbon clutch release beariing which causes more engine friction when the clutch is deptessed.
The clutch friction disc is stuck to the flywheel, the quick and dirty trick to free is jack the rear wheels clear of the deck start the car car in a high gear depress the clutch give it raised RPM and jam on the foot brake hard.
Great job Ivan.
What a series of issues! Having been there myself, I find it so believable - even expected. Glad the glass bowl was found - I think Tractor Supply has those, if they fit. I'm concerned the clutch disc center may have yielded to the torque during the freeing attempt. I don't think it would have been possible to free it any other way without the same results other than taking it apart. Refreshing to see work on a vehicle like that!
Ivan mentioned a few times that the glass bowl was missing.
There were two small boxes on the garage floor and it was in one of them. You didn’t have to be Sherlock Holmes to find it did you.
I would have done the work on the car in a different order to Ivan but hey ho.
And what would that order have been and why, if you don't mind expanding?
@@larrybe2900 Like, 'critical part missing'->check boxes on floor labeled 'car parts'-> start car without jerryrigged fuel system hack risking burning down the whole storage facility... just a thought..
Whatever failed was clearly VERY weak to begin with and probably wouldn't have made it out of the parking lot under its own power. Simply rolling the car in 2nd gear shouldn't transmit much torque through the drivetrain compared to normal driving. From the car's perspective, being pulled along in 2nd gear isn't any different than just releasing the throttle while rolling and letting the engine slow the car down, which we do all the time without incident.
Ivan check the pistons of the SU carburetors they should fall free after lifting. The damper needs oil, I prefer ATF instead of SAE 30 single grade. ATF have a more steady viscositiy thats why. I worked often on Volvo Amazona and 140 series with SU 6 Carb's.
If there is an oil temp meter keep the engine below 2.000 revs till the oil is at 60 centigrade. Good luck
Any way those carb's do not have an acceleration pump,
Lucas. Prince of Darkness.
When we found that problem at my Dad's shop we would remove the old insulator, then wrap that wire with electrician tape and add a slight bend to the wire. It worked well. We found that problem in GM, Ford and Prestolite starters.
Maybe a new clutch in this car's future? Hopefully not a damaged transmission.
The Russian repair on the starter alone proves Ivan's skills. It sounds much stronger after the fix.
Yes definitely a big improvement! :)
No point pumping the gas during starting. With SU's it only opens the butterflies, there is no accelerator pump. Just use the choke.
I know the feeling(s) - been there, done that with old vehicles. One NEVER knows what challenge will be the last one. My worst was a 1940's ex-military ambulance that I had been using for desert outings. We decided to use it for a family trip through several western states. We were in Texas when the rear ring gear shed a tooth. We had to rent a U-Haul truck to tow it back to SoCal. Fun and games.
To be kind to Lucas that starter has been rebuilt (badly) in the past. For the clutch unstick a higher gear is preferable, stresses the weak axle less too.
"Lucas electronics, welcome to the dark ages." All I can focus on is the red dash light, I'm not sure but I would think that its a low/no oil pressure light? I stand corrected, that light appears to be for the generator/alternator charging status.
The TR4 is a wonderful car to drive. You'll enjoy it when you've got it on the road.
By the way it's not an E-Brake it's a Hand-Brake, personally I prefer Hand-Brakes to the modern E-Brakes...you just need to glance at or feel the Hand-Brake lever to know if it's on or not.
The fuel pump works off of the cam-shaft, everything works off of electrics these days...a retrograde step in my view
Good luck 👍
Aircraft piston engines still have an engine-driven fuel pump. As a backup during takeoff and landing for low-wing aircraft, there is a second electric fuel pump. High-wing aircraft omit the electric fuel pump because the fuel can gravity feed.
@@major__kongI’ve fitted an electric petrol pump as a backup on my 1938 Sunbeamtalbot Tourer 😊
@@major__kong In the Air Force we called them boost pumps
I repair vehicles full time - my own personal "cut-off" point for stuff I want as my own is 1988 or Lexus. I drive a 1987 as my daily. Reasons being as seen in this video - you can fix stuff using a hammer. Lexus don't need fixing, so they're alright too by me - even the modern ones, like the one my missus drives. No, I don't want to have to work on her car.. Lexus..
If clutch plate are stuck to flywheel, put in gear step on brake, and try turn key, or put car on road put in first gear turn key car starts driving press clutch pedal and brake when in motion it may pop lose. If not and IG there's a flywheel cover, take off loosen pressure plate pray lose clutch plate
The absence of a voltage meter is because the car has a dynamo rather than an alternator. Most british cars in the lower price range of that era didn't have an ammeter just the red ign light
You can see the dancing needle of the ammeter at 17:37.
Older technology. Great to work.with
What a wonderful car, and what a great video series, such a change from Eurojunk modules!
Isnt it nice to be able to see whats wrong with a cars components and have easy access, rather than the modern gynacological/ do what the computer says. I had a Triumph Stag years ago, another cool design.
My dad had a triumph stag too. Loved that car, yellow
Its interesting how "debris" that is built up as a slightly oily dust can freeze up a clutch and other parts after sitting for years. I'd bet a can of WD40 would help that rig in many ways.
At least this is more fun and traceable than modern computer vehicles.
The Triumph owner might read this: Is your glass fuel sediment bowl 2" OD 2" 1/2" or is it 2" 3/4"? On fuel bowls the O.D. varies, as does the height of the fuel bowl. Of course one won't fit the other! It's very easy to buy the wrong one, Likely costs around $10 with shipping. Can be found at some farm/tractor supply stores, and EBay. It's a pain to find these, they'll never be delivered when you want them.
With the fuel bowl you'll need a 'Glass Fuel Bowl **Bail**' [adjustable bail] It's very likely you'll need this in that car's future (trust me here). Sometimes these break and you'll lose both the bail and the fuel bowl will fall off, you'll never find either on the road
And, several gaskets to fit the fuel bowl. (any kind you can find that fits that size bowl).
These bowls work well, it's just very difficult to find a replacement when you need one.
Ivan you can pump the accelerator until the cows come home with SU's but they don't squirt fuel! They work on Vacuum/Venturi! On my old Race Car I used to have to physically squirt Petrol into them or onto the Filters to get it to Fire up on Methanol!
Jesus, Ivan!! That sure takes me back lol. Used to drive TR4 triumph!! Back in the old days. Zippy little car, lol. Those carbs are so easy to work on lol. My uncle used to work for Lucas, i used to get plentiful of parts whenever i needed them lol. Hahaha man took me back in the 80s days lol. Nice vid, Ivan. Great series!
Ha that's awesome, Josh! It's like a go-kart...4-wheel motorcycle, you really feel the speed ;)
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics oh hell ya!! That's what that TR4 feels like lol
Thank you.
Great entertainment!
the lucas boxes was also fitted on ford it was the first thing to look at when battery not charging ,ford escorts to cortina and i think granada and capri
most old uk cars was fitted that way easy to fix .
I have a bunch of those fuel bowls. Look like the right size.
Great job 👍
Mucking around with fuel on old systems it is a very good idea to have at least a couple of fire extinguishers handy.
Dang! When all the other problems were sorted out, the clutch went from stuck to freewheeling. Tough luck, Ivan! I hope you don't have to take the clutch apart to sort it out...
So only 2 things that could've let go, the clutch plate or input shaft of the gearbox.
Luckily, those gearboxes aren't that heavy to remove.
Technically there are quite a few different parts of the transmission, overdrive (if fitted) or axle that _could_ have been busted and cause this symptom, but hopefully it's something easy and cheap to fix.
Awesome series of videos. This is my absolute favorite car of all time. I just love them. Keep up the great videos.
Getting that charging system working is exactly like what it took when I worked on an ex-neighbor's 1936 Plymouth Business Coupe. In fact this whole car seems to be equivalent to the tech of that Plymouth. And getting it running seems to be the same process. Fiddle with the carb, fiddle with the fuel pump, fiddle with the voltage regulator. Checks out.
Built to run forever
Great video cool car
👍👍👍👍👍
Re born on Thanksgiving 👍😁
Hi Ivan, I suggested you look in the boxes for the fuel bowl.
Now I ask you to look in the boxes for the service manuals, especially the fuel pump assembly, then the clutch assembly.
Turning out to be a great car considering the storage time.
Well when you get that old you tend to leaking out of unattended places too 😅
Thanks Ivan!
Ivan…When my tractor clutch freezes, I jack up the rear, start it in gear, press down the clutch, and then drop the jack.
So lucky it broke free easy. I had a 29 ford that I had to loosen the trans from the engine and use a screw driver to break it free
I am REALLY enjoying this one!
Having taught me so much about modern car electronics and how to diagnose if it is a wire fray or a fried module: finally, a video where I can shout at the screen!!!!
I am not a Triumph "sports car" fan. Just a basic, tarted up Austin designed engine with a badge.
You have to understand what the Army taught the British Motor Industry in WW 2 after Dunquerke. about commonality of parts for supply and maintenance and mechanic's training to grasp fully what you are dealing with. The AC type fuel lift pump with attached glass bowl water trap was a common component on many vehicles of the time. The small hole in the priming lever was often fitted with an upright wire extension with a finger sized loop on the upper end to facilitate hand priming without the need to get so intimate with the oily bits. 6 volt batteries had proved insufficient in the War and 12 volt batteries were not what they are today. Etc. Etc. Etc. I could write you a book.
The clutch? A butcher's solution, sadly. Only 55 years + experience of old, vintage and swamped military vehicles that were not properly prepared for deep fording.to call on so, I could be wrong. Long term standing will allow damp to cause the clutch driven plate lining to "gently weld" itself to the flywheel. Old Bedford trucks allowed a lower inspection cover whereby you could turn the whole assembly to loosen the pressure plate bolts. gently tap the frozen mating surface free and re-tighten without separating the engine and gearbox. Only lasted 20 years, so not a permanent fix. No parts required.
Lucas was the dominant manufacturer of vehicle electrical parts in those days. Wiper blades fitted everything from a Morris 1000 to a Landrover, to a Heavy Military truck. Chromed blade holder if it was for a posh car. Just walk in the store and get a part that fitted nearly everything. So simple then. Then we got "clever"?
Well, looks like we have a few leaks. Looking at the radiator, there appear to be a few green crusties on the metal fins. So, I would be willing to bet the radiator will need some attention. The engine did start and run better than the Zaporozhets 966; however, I'll bet it doesn't have its off-road capabilities. You could climb a mountain with that thing. Also, while it is older, it didn't sit idle as long. (1963 vs. 1971 for the ZAZ. I think the ZAZ had sat since 1992; the year some Russian kid came to this country, for which we are all thankful!) You would NEVER have a coolant leak with a 966. That starter bears an uncanny resemblence to the starter on my 8N Ford tractor. It even sounds the same when the bendix kicks out. GREAT VIDEO!
Not a scanner in sight. Things were so much simpler.
I've freed of clutch by getting engine hot and having a Bar holding pedal down before
Just a caution to your nice work!.......unless I missed it! -I don't see an emergency fire extinguisher handy! I know that that is a good idea because I had a '79 VW Westphalia camper burn up in minutes because I didn't have a fire extinguisher handy when I statrted it and there was a fuel leak(pancake engine with fuel injection) Thanks!!
Any of us old buggers would know so much about the systems on this, especially the "sports" type handbrake.
Since SU carbs don’t have an accelerator pump, pumping the gas before start doesn’t do anything. On acceleration, the dashpot oil slows the rise in the piston, resulting in higher air velocity over the jet and hence more fuel.
Yup just like a motorcycle!
When you put the bolt back in the starter you should have put some heat shrink on it & when you got it tight shrink it down would have given moreinsulation as for the clutch it was probably welded to the flywheel & eithe damaged the throw out bearing or the fork.Good luck be nice to see it run under it's own power.
Use a little Permatex Ultra-black RTV over that electrical tape and it should be fine. Electrical tape + RTV would hold for a pretty long time but I'd finish it off with a small wrap of cloth wire harness tape over top the RTV. Doesn't need a lot.
RTV + Wire harness tape is secret weapon in situations where you need to run wiring and there is no place to zip tie to and no place to tuck the wires into as it will stick to just about any surface. The cloth wire harness tape creates a more solid connection within the RTV and holds pretty securely.
Better than modern computer shit, this car are in great condition value between 25 to 50000 USD
I forgot. The car is positive grounded. You have patience of a saint to work one of most finicky British era cars. All of them you have to be an zealot to own one. But is good to go over these very basic engines. Trstiment to good quality aluminium since thd fuel bowels are not rotted out.
Hi I was watching you on UA-cam with the starter motor and the bolt shorting to the field coil. If my memory is correct they had a sleeve like a straw that the bolt went through too stop this happening , but it was a very long time ago .