Beautiful flooring and I was happy you showed how the new tool was loaded and showing how it works with putting down the nice wood going together nicely.👍
Beautiful floor guys, we have a solid oak floor in our home it,s tongue in groove lumber we sanded it and applied golden oak stain then 2 coats of clear polyurethane it came out beautiful. Thumb, s up to Dede on the nail gun .
Certainly a concern, we are trying out minwax ultimate floor finish. If that doesn’t seem to hold up, I may look into a two part epoxy like you use on fiberglass. -Robert
No rooms or Square sniper line away from your wall start your material on your line then color filler strip between the line and the wall that's how you get the flooring straight in the room next time you have to level your floor use your skill saw with a old blade use it as a grinder to knock down the high spot it will only take a few minutes Love the flooring good luck on your adventure
Thanks Mike. I have a grinder blade with a chainsaw on it that I wanted to use, but in moving everything out to do floor, all my tools are buried.😳 I will have it unburied for the next one where the kitchen transition is. Looking forward to having some room back again! 😊 -Robert
I live in the high desert, Ca/Nv boarder 5,000 ft elevation. We run a swamp cooler all summer and wood heat all winter. The summer humidity vs winter dryness is off the charts. Would a floor like pine plank floor be doable or is it just going to end up cupping and warping? Someone suggested an engineered pine floor in place of solid pine. It would be upstairs over a plywood subfloor. Any real world experience would be greatly appreciated.
Hi Chuck. We are at 2900ft elevation close to the oregon California border. Typically have dry summers- 5-15% humidity this summer in the heat of the day. Winters are wet and snowy, but we do run wood heat that keeps things fairly dry in winter too. We don’t have any warping and cupping issues. The swamp cooler adds an interesting layer though. It may depend on the brand and quality of the engineered product. My gut says hardwood over engineered material. Click together products like laminate would likely swell and buckle if the humidity was super high. Also a cleat nailed plank should stay put pretty well. I just don’t trust water around engineered wood products. Buying old fixer uppers I’ve seen plenty of swelled floors, mdf cabinets, etc that swell up and don’t return to their prior shape. Just my 2 cents. 😊 -Robert
Good Morning! We purchased this product from Lumber Liquidators. It’s their inexpensive tongue and groove “New England White Pine Unfinished”flooring. Have a great day. -Dede
The flooring is beautiful, you two. I do have an installation question for you. Is there no need for underlayment/barrier with this particular wood flooring?
Hi SSG. If this was a concrete slab it would have needed underlayment. No need for it going over raised wood floors. There will be no condensation issues. -Robert
Just a tidbit for you in reference to your Ashley stove. Rev Camb Ashley invented the stove. He was from either Spotsylvania or Stafford county Virginia. He died in 1975. He sold the rights to the stove for $100. His daughter(Revere Ashley Houck) was a school teacher for many years and her along with her husband had a large farm in Culpeper county(where I am from). Of course, the automatic damper system was added later...but the stove you have is almost identical to the original. I have seen a stove Rev Ashley made which was owned by his daughter.
Hi Michael. I’m sure it probably is. It had a bunch of bees and bats living in it when we bought the cabin. It appeard that is was in use prior to us tearing it out. I would love to restore it, but we have three woods stoves and the house is only 800 sq feet. The old Ashley is going to go up in the shop, and I may see about selling the cook stove to someone with the time and money to restore it. Maybe it will pay for the rest of the windows or siding. 😊 We will see what happens -Robert.
Beautiful!! Is the wood unfinished? Are you going to stain or just seal; if so? Couldn't tell from video, just gorgeous though! Nice job, as always! Smiles and blessings...
Hi Lisa. Yes we are staining and sealing. I would have gone with finished but just didn’t have the bankroll for that. This is a lot more work, but should only end up costing about $1.50-1.75 per square foot when we are done. -Robert
@@TheOregonTale Hey, you'll get no argument from me. I've always thought raw and dyi stain and seal was better anyway. Looking forward to seeing the great job ya all do!!
I am about to install a pallet wood pine floor with .5 inch boards. You said that your boards are at 6 percent moisture? When they expand with the humidity, are you not afraid of the floor buckling up. Also, each board is nailed into the floor so is the .25 inch gap for expansion at the edges not fairly redundant?? I`m not being a dick. These are just questions i would love to have answers to before i start laying down boards on the floor. Thanks!
Hi Glen. 10 percent or less is usually considered stable for wood working in our area. They will not move very much if dry. More importantly they will be less likely to cup as they dry since they are already dry. The humidity in your house should not vary much especially if you have a climate controlled house. I have a pile of boards in the corner that have been in the house for quite a while and they are all still between 5&9 percent humidity. You will want to bring your boards inside and let them acclimate to the house. The gap is not going to be that important unless you have some water intrusion, just a good precaution. Under normal circumstances it should not move much at all. If you are in a very humid area, it may be more important. On a slab foundation you may have expansion issues too. I think a pallet wood floor will look awesome! Not sure how you are attaching the floor. Are you cutting tounges or just end nailing? -Robert
@@TheOregonTale I live in southern Ontario, Canada and our summers are quite humid usually. The room we are doing is second floor in a 150 year old farmhouse, not climate controlled and heated with wood stove in the winter so it is super dry in the house then. I am tounge and grooving it all and renting a flooring nailer. The original plan was to just end nail but we decided to go all the way which meant new tools for me so I was ok with it :) Thanks for the tips. Glenn
Looks great. Must be so satisfying. Very nice to see Dede again.
Very well done video. I like the close-ups of the tools. Thanks. About to do this in a log cabin we just bought (replacing 2nd floor carpet).
Hope the flooring goes well! -Robert
SUPERB! What a difference a floor makes. Betty you guys are excited. Love it! Thanks for sharing. Becky from Kansas City
Thanks Becky! -Robert
This video absolutely floored me.
😂😂 You funny. -Robert
Beautiful flooring and I was happy you showed how the new tool was loaded and showing how it works with putting down the nice wood going together nicely.👍
haha New toys! new toys are great. i have a few still on my wishlist. floor is beautiful!
Thanks Bonnie! -Robert
Looking wonderful! Really nice! Just wanted to keep on watching
Love your journey! Proud to be a part of your channel!
Thank Lou! Thanks for being a part of it! Robert
WOW! With a smile! Thank You so much for sharing. Hugs!!
Love the pine floor....so rustic. If you cost with a couple coats of polyurethane enamel, it will make it harder.
Beautiful floor guys, we have a solid oak floor in our home it,s tongue in groove lumber we sanded it and applied golden oak stain then 2 coats of clear polyurethane it came out beautiful. Thumb, s up to Dede on the nail gun .
Thanks Sheila! She’s a rock star! 😊 -Robert
Floor looks great,make sore you get a good hard poly flooring sealer pine is soft and sand or rocks embedded in your shoes can mark the floors fast
Certainly a concern, we are trying out minwax ultimate floor finish. If that doesn’t seem to hold up, I may look into a two part epoxy like you use on fiberglass. -Robert
@@TheOregonTale 2 coat epoxy is tough they use it on garage floors
No rooms or Square sniper line away from your wall start your material on your line then color filler strip between the line and the wall that's how you get the flooring straight in the room next time you have to level your floor use your skill saw with a old blade use it as a grinder to knock down the high spot it will only take a few minutes Love the flooring good luck on your adventure
Thanks Mike. I have a grinder blade with a chainsaw on it that I wanted to use, but in moving everything out to do floor, all my tools are buried.😳 I will have it unburied for the next one where the kitchen transition is. Looking forward to having some room back again! 😊 -Robert
Gonna look great!
wow looking good
I live in the high desert, Ca/Nv boarder 5,000 ft elevation. We run a swamp cooler all summer and wood heat all winter. The summer humidity vs winter dryness is off the charts. Would a floor like pine plank floor be doable or is it just going to end up cupping and warping? Someone suggested an engineered pine floor in place of solid pine. It would be upstairs over a plywood subfloor. Any real world experience would be greatly appreciated.
Hi Chuck. We are at 2900ft elevation close to the oregon California border. Typically have dry summers- 5-15% humidity this summer in the heat of the day. Winters are wet and snowy, but we do run wood heat that keeps things fairly dry in winter too. We don’t have any warping and cupping issues. The swamp cooler adds an interesting layer though. It may depend on the brand and quality of the engineered product. My gut says hardwood over engineered material. Click together products like laminate would likely swell and buckle if the humidity was super high. Also a cleat nailed plank should stay put pretty well. I just don’t trust water around engineered wood products. Buying old fixer uppers I’ve seen plenty of swelled floors, mdf cabinets, etc that swell up and don’t return to their prior shape. Just my 2 cents. 😊 -Robert
Gorgeous floor,
Are there end joints in the pine? It looks like it’s flat. Was that a big challenge?
Where did you buy that I’m thinking it’s English white pine and it doesn’t have grooves underneath it
Good Morning! We purchased this product from Lumber Liquidators. It’s their inexpensive tongue and groove “New England White Pine Unfinished”flooring. Have a great day. -Dede
The flooring is beautiful, you two. I do have an installation question for you. Is there no need for underlayment/barrier with this particular wood flooring?
Hi SSG. If this was a concrete slab it would have needed underlayment. No need for it going over raised wood floors. There will be no condensation issues. -Robert
@@TheOregonTale Thanks so much, Robert! Cheers, Ardith
The video was very informative, with that said, I always put down felt paper just to keep them from squeaking
Looking good
Just a tidbit for you in reference to your Ashley stove. Rev Camb Ashley invented the stove. He was from either Spotsylvania or Stafford county Virginia. He died in 1975. He sold the rights to the stove for $100. His daughter(Revere Ashley Houck) was a school teacher for many years and her along with her husband had a large farm in Culpeper county(where I am from). Of course, the automatic damper system was added later...but the stove you have is almost identical to the original. I have seen a stove Rev Ashley made which was owned by his daughter.
Wow. Thanks for the info! I appreciate the background on it!!! -Robert
@@TheOregonTale I noticed a cookstove in the video....is it still operable? That would be beautiful restored.
Hi Michael. I’m sure it probably is. It had a bunch of bees and bats living in it when we bought the cabin. It appeard that is was in use prior to us tearing it out. I would love to restore it, but we have three woods stoves and the house is only 800 sq feet. The old Ashley is going to go up in the shop, and I may see about selling the cook stove to someone with the time and money to restore it. Maybe it will pay for the rest of the windows or siding. 😊 We will see what happens -Robert.
looks good.
Beautiful!! Is the wood unfinished? Are you going to stain or just seal; if so? Couldn't tell from video, just gorgeous though! Nice job, as always! Smiles and blessings...
Hi Lisa. Yes we are staining and sealing. I would have gone with finished but just didn’t have the bankroll for that. This is a lot more work, but should only end up costing about $1.50-1.75 per square foot when we are done. -Robert
@@TheOregonTale
Hey, you'll get no argument from me. I've always thought raw and dyi stain and seal was better anyway. Looking forward to seeing the great job ya all do!!
beautiful!
what size boards did you use? Looks like 4 inch wide and 3/4 thick?
Hi Patrick. They were 3/4” thick x 6-7/8” wide x 6’ long. They were the cheapest pine floor I could find on sale at lumber liquidators. 😂 - Robert
I am about to install a pallet wood pine floor with .5 inch boards. You said that your boards are at 6 percent moisture? When they expand with the humidity, are you not afraid of the floor buckling up. Also, each board is nailed into the floor so is the .25 inch gap for expansion at the edges not fairly redundant?? I`m not being a dick. These are just questions i would love to have answers to before i start laying down boards on the floor. Thanks!
Hi Glen. 10 percent or less is usually considered stable for wood working in our area. They will not move very much if dry. More importantly they will be less likely to cup as they dry since they are already dry. The humidity in your house should not vary much especially if you have a climate controlled house. I have a pile of boards in the corner that have been in the house for quite a while and they are all still between 5&9 percent humidity. You will want to bring your boards inside and let them acclimate to the house. The gap is not going to be that important unless you have some water intrusion, just a good precaution. Under normal circumstances it should not move much at all. If you are in a very humid area, it may be more important. On a slab foundation you may have expansion issues too. I think a pallet wood floor will look awesome! Not sure how you are attaching the floor. Are you cutting tounges or just end nailing? -Robert
@@TheOregonTale I live in southern Ontario, Canada and our summers are quite humid usually. The room we are doing is second floor in a 150 year old farmhouse, not climate controlled and heated with wood stove in the winter so it is super dry in the house then. I am tounge and grooving it all and renting a flooring nailer. The original plan was to just end nail but we decided to go all the way which meant new tools for me so I was ok with it :) Thanks for the tips. Glenn
Do you make any coating on top?
Should put glue then put the nail after
Why is that? If nailed properly on joists shouldnt need glue
🤘💪🙂👍
I have an idea. Why not say what kind of pine this is. For the love of god