Puzzled why my fitech won't start up again - SOLVED - BAD ECU
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- Опубліковано 16 жов 2024
- After lots of trouble shooting, and getting on the phone with Fitech, it was determined by them that I had a bad ECU. I sent it in to them, and they changed it out with NO CHARGE. I bolted it back on, and she started right up.
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Hello, Ray here and having a no ecu response, it's on offline always, and the sump tank it came with master lit does not turn on. I have the 12 volts at the white wire, and 11 volts. while cranking. The relay in small box and fuses have good voltage except for the voltage coming out of the ecu is less than 4v. key on. Installed it just over week ago, and drove it around while test driving and going through the handheld, and only got about 7 miles out of it. Was seating in the garage making adjustments and would start now then, then it gave up the ghost. I checked the grounds every place the engine and the system is grounded and relocate some, and the lowest reading on the resistance was 1.7 ohms, and the highest reading was 2.0 ohms. Tried resetting, re calibration, but no use it's offline. No ecu response. The fitech team tells me it's the data cable, another said it's the ecu, but they got me trouble shooting and nothing. How desperate do I need to sound to get a warranty ecu?
This is an update, sent out the unit and the handheld, Fitech replaced the ICU and updated with latest software, and returned it. Set up is much easier for me, starts and runs except for the fuel pump relay clicking and the pump cycling. If I press down on the relay, the one in side the small box, well the one on the right if I press on it the pump works for a while and I have press down on it again. But hold on, I noticed the harness that goes down to the 4l60e transmission has melted to header and I'm wondering if this is causing the issue with the relay shorting out, because the inline 10-amp fuse was popped. So, I had to cut the burnt wires and add new wiring. The wiring must have moved because I had rearranged them. Also, I figured out how to get the .5 ohm reading on the ground cables, and with I accidently got that when I loosened the negative cable, and decided to see if it made any difference and it id, wow, after replacing all the grounds and locations. Need to find another route for the trans harness and can't wait to start it.
Mine is melting the fuel pump in-line fuse? And the pump works if you change fuse……
Sir. The temp sensor for the EFI system which you have mounted in the water outlet housing should be moved to the intake manifold side of the thermostat or before the thermostat for proper tempreture reading. With it located in the water outlet housing, the fiTECH system will think the engine is dead cold until the thermostat finally opens.
Hi buddy, i do have a similar problem, my efi won‘t startup again when hot, as i have a fuel pressure gauge i could read that there was no pressure, and after 5-10 minutes it started up again for a short time then i had to let it cool down again :-/ 2 days later i made a test without changes and i drove 10 miles without issues... did you had the same? Or one of you guys?
I haven't seen that on mine. Once the ECU was swapped out by Fitech, the problem went away. 4,000 miles and is running good
Have You tried to put current directly from THE battery to THE White Wire?
yes I did. didn't help. I've just made another video with another trial.
Fitech is known for defective ecu's , even right out of the box ( I don't understand why they don't pretest every single unit for at least a day before there shipped out and to their retailers ) as well the ecm , tend to heat up , cuz of where they located it .. It's A Fact intake manifolds get HOT, therefore transferring its heat to the ecm ....Every One Knows ECM's Don't Like Heat!!..Apparently Fitech has their own perspective!!
That's 100% correct. They sold me a unit that internal relay stopped sending voltage to fp. Sent it back and they inst. A new ecu and a external fuse box that contains the relays and fuses. So far so good.
Use a relay that's activated by key on that'll send straight battery voltage to the white wire. Also, are you getting an RPM signal while cranking? Watch the handheld while cranking to make sure it reads RPM. Oh and use the V8 calibration. Should be just after the V6 calibration on the list.
So you hooked the key on wire to a relay? Mine gets over 9 volts while cranking but no star
@@ymb_loki5098 yes
I’m having the same problem !
When is hot won’t work
ECU no response
May not be the same problem, but mine ended up being a bad ecu. Fitech walked me through diagnostics to determine. they fixed it for free. no problems since then.
Make shure your getting 58 psi to the throttle Body. Do you hear the prime shot when You turn the ignition on? Do You use the fitech efi to Control the ignition? IF not, make shure You have chosen TACH in THE initial engine setting.
I can hear the prime shot
did you figure it out?
the white wire needs more voltage during cranking. the battery being only at 12v with no load is a dead battery. 13.2 is fully charged no load. Also, with the prime shot multi at 259 and cranking fuel in the 20-30's it's probably flooding the motor. That's a lot of fuel for a mild small block Ford. Try decreasing the prime shot to -100 which will essentially deactivate it.
Hey there. No, I haven't spent time on it yet. In the searches that I've done, I see that vacuum is a problem for some and I haven't set up all of my vacuum lines as of yet. I figured I would do that before trying again. I will check the battery. Thank you for the tips on the settings. I'll give it a try.
Maybe the pump wire is not secured properly or became loose, either the + or - terminal became loose. Also I noticed that you can see values in your dashboard for the hand held controller. I Do not see those values unless I place the key switch on the ON position. Also when ever I place the key on the on position I hear the pump prime the e-carb.
You disabed the fan option, correct? I noticed on your dashboard it seems like that option is enabled.
Obviously you hooked up the O2 sensor(just asking because I don't remember you pointing that out in your other video)....wrap any unused cables.
Make sure the e-carb is grounded( check with an ohmmeter from - battery terminal to any metal part of e-carb and make sure it reads close to 0.1 ohms the lower the value the better the connection.
If you reset the learned values and recheck all the connections your system should work.
Have you got ignition rpm response? I had an issue with my fi tech setup where I had to change the rpm reference pickup point from my msd ready to run distributor to the coil -Ve. Once I did this I had no further issues.
Open the IAC to 160 under crank. That will help
The temp senor for the fitech should be on the driver side of the intake. Also, the white wire needs 1.5v or more, via cranking volts! also, verify you are getting fuel to the unit.
yea we have had nothing but headaches with this FI Tec injection sys. Had to send it back ,the ecu went out with only 10 min. run time on it . The wiring schematic, that came with the unit, was wrong. The frame mounted fuel pump is so loud , it can be herd over the engine. A piece of junk . Not much help from Fi Tec . They read out of a book to fix your problem. The settings on the handheld do not have any information as to where they are to run . The IAC I can not get below 56 . no help on that. For the money we paid for this it is absolutely a piece of junk . I would not recommend it to anyone . Cost $ 28.00 to send it back for repair of which they would not reimburse .
How is your system running now? I just installed mine and I am having the exact same issue as you did.
It's running fine now. I've taken a few 8-10 mile drives, but nothing big yet. Fitech replaced the ECU under warranty. Also, (I know it sounds stupid) but make sure you have gas in the tank. that happened to me once. I was just out of gas.
I had this same problem. Put a double pumper on and the problem went away!!
Also, pull the fuel line and place it in a fuel jug to make sure the pump is active.
The blue wire is the tach.
I have problems with my fitech too first start was great after that it starts and dies
dennis bryan look up how to adjust the IAC. (Idle Air Control) should be between 3 and 10 steps. Adjust as needed.
Ahhhh sorry... You do not have THE system with ignition control....
Just get a fucking double pumper there is no point to this shit.
Yes go simple quit wasting time and money. Being stranded.