I have been refinishing over 20 years and a licensed tech collision branch 1. And yes I have painted several used cars with Rustolium or trimclad, it’s just old alkyd enamel, this is very close to the paint they used in the 60’s and 70’s, the pre curser to acrylic enamel. Alkyd enamel is very easy to spray, use lacquer thinners 20-40%, just takes a long time to cure, it works as a cheap cheap durable paint. Last car I did was for my parents, 12 year old bonneville, the car was white and peeling, I buzzed it all down with 320, used lacquer prime in a few spots, sanded the spots, taped and shot the entire car with white trimclad, 5 light coats, lasted over 6 years till the transmission blew up, car went to the junk yard with a shinny shinny paint job. Cost me under $250 with masking, primer and single stage top coat.
It is great that you are practicing and learning how to do this stuff. Everyone is telling you what you are doing wrong, but I think you are doing good. It isn't auto paint, and it isn't a cut and dry recipe to make it come out right. It is rustoleum. Experimenting is good. Find out what works for you and your application. Keep it up.
Very true I used rustolum years ago. I was on a painting kick painting metal around the house garbage cans plumbing pips metal out side chairs. I was testing the paint out before I used it to paint my metal dash in my 1972 GMC Suburban. I end up painting the whole inside of my suburban and it came out great this was 14 year's ago and it still looks good. If I would have bought automotive paint it would have cost at least $300 buck's that's what made me try rustolum in the inside of my truck. Now for the out side I used HOT ROD FLATS this is some real good durable paint. The prep work was the whole work I used primer filler some thick stuff you have to work fast when spraying it because it's like spray on bondo that fills in all the area's I may have mist plus it let the paint job hang on to my rid. The car got a few dings over the year's but the paint did not chip off. If anyone is interested in flat paint I would recommend "HOT ROD FLATS"
Ya know, regardless of the setbacks, the conditions, and experience, you can’t change the effect without “proper” setup. I appreciated the realness because we all experienced what you show. My next video will disturb the masses. Keep at it
tip from a professional painter , try turning the fluid down abit more and getting closer to the panel buddy , being to far away the paint has atomised and then started to accumulate back into larger droplets again by that point so getting close will help to keep it atomised better and lay down smoother
Thank you for the tip. I did notice looking back the first 2 coats I was way far and swinging the wrist like a spray can. I will use this too next time ! :)
@@BulliKid no problem buddy always keen to watch peoples journeys with spraying buddy, yeah keeping it as uniform and as even from the panel at all times will help massively too but thats comes in time dude keep practising man itll come we all started somewhere
It’s always nice when people advise rather than criticise. Especially so when the advice comes with an explanation as well, as in this case. Too many people are too quick to put young people down forgetting they were just learning a craft themselves at one point.
Tape a cheap 20 X 20 furnace filter over the inlet side of each of your fans to catch the paint particles, to keep them out of the grill, the blades and the motor.
is it worth getting raw material and making your own filters? or is it cheap enough to just get the stuff off the shelf at home depot? i’m thinking about cheese cloth or coffee filters or something like that you might have available or whatever
ohzak’s My biggest concern are not the fans it is the overspray going towards the house and cars parked outside. My car was parked quite a bit away from this paint area and recently I did a clay bar and detail on it and I picked up a lot of yellow paint from the clay bar.
@@BulliKid you need a better gun. that well make less over spray. one step paints take a larger tip 1.8 ....2 steps take more prep and a smaller tip 1.2 or 1.3 . look at the gun reviews on you tube check out gun man on you tube. i have the deilbiss tekna pro lite supper all around gun. much luck to you keep it up i learned just the way you did..
A mixing tip. Use an eye-bolt with your cordless drill. No sharp edges to cut the can or mixing cup and no splashing. Anyway, you really seem to have it all together. Best of luck to you.
@@howifixit6206 It's hard enough to get paint to burn with an open flame. A 12-18v arc isn't hot enough to do anything. You have a better chance of igniting wood dust with your tablesaw.
Seriously though bro you explain this better than anyone that I have ever seen at UA-cam video on thank you for naturally explaining very important knowledge not repeating shit that people say in other videos and acting like it's theirs appreciate it you make UA-cam worth it
Found these videos 1 week before I was attempting to spray rustoleum !!! Lol I'm so glad I stumbled apon these ...tons of great tips I just learned bros ...thanks a bunch from Canada homie ....awesome results btw
The "keep your dogs hydrated" comment alone is worth a like. I'll never paint a car due to disabilities, but there were plenty of great tips for my small projects. The quantities guide is also very useful and I did screen shot it, thank you. I also like that you admit to being a learner and you share what you’ve learnt thus far in a modest way. So many people learn something new and talk like they are experts within a week. Rather than risk your mobile phone when recording close up have you thought of attaching a second hand Go-Pro to your gun? I know you’ve said you don’t like the bulk of the water trap and gauge in the past but it could be attachable in a non intrusive way and the waterproof models are light and should clean fairly easily.
Thanks for the comment. Thanks for watching. I try my best to learn and document. As far as the phone I ended up getting water damage pressure washing a engine I am taking apart. :( Gopro just doesn’t have the close up detail I would like
pro tip: add 1/4 Behr hardener to your paint and thinner ratio and open the fluid tip up to like a 1.6 equivalent. Spray a few tack coats then hose it on. Oil based is very different from urethane so you cannot get a nice finish by spraying tons of light coats.
Yea I noticed the thin coats where not giving me the texture I wanted. So then went heavier. Thank you for the tip. The primer was so nice to lay down. I thought the paint would be the same but I was dead wrong. Especially like you said, oil paint very different.
@@BulliKid rust oleum oil is harder to work with imo than nason automotive. Auto paint 2 light then 1 or 2 wet. Then 2k clear. Wet sanding and buffing the clear gets the shine. That paint is more general purpose where you don't usually top coat and don't need a deep automotive shine. But you're doing great job with it!
You may want to put a filter on the back of your fans, it will help to keep the dust/pollen down. Also, try using a 3 to 6 foot piece of hose between the gun and the filter. This makes the "stack" of equipment a little shorter and helps to improve the gun handling and reduces the strain on the filter. Your process looks pretty nice. Keep up the good work.
Oil base paint takes a long time to dry unless you add hardner. It will last a long time I sprayed some things around the house with BLACK RUSTOLUME 10 year's ago and it's still holding up. I was on a painting kick to put some color on metal things around the house garbage cans plumbing pop's metal out side chairs.
I just replaced the lower bumper on my 2001 Chevy S10 and repainted my grill. All of those parts are plastic. I just used Duplicolor rattle cans and one Duplicolor bumper and trim black. On the lower bumper that was brand new that I replaced had no paint, first I sprayed it with a tacky adhesive primer. A few coats, waited 10 minutes on the last coat of that primer and started the top coat, while it was tacky per the instructions. It took a total of 3, 8 oz cans of rattle can victory red and the lower bumper looks just like the original that came from the factory. For the grill which already had paint but was faded by the sun, I first layed down the chrome using a rattle can for the center chrome strip. Chrome in paint cans never comes out as chrome, it comes out more of a grey/silver, but none the less looks good, that applies to all brands, don't expect a chrome from a rattle can, it comes out silver. I removed the center chevy bowtie which was a gold, painted that black using the rattle can. Waited for the chrome to completely dry 24 hours, taped it off and than painted the rest of the grill black. It was a 3 day process, all done with rattle cans. I also straightened out the metal part of the bumper which got bent 6 years ago in a fender bender. Put it all back on, threw on a new set of headlights with silverstar Ultra bulbs and the truck looks like it came from the factory, it also looks like a more modern s10. So for those who don't want to go thru all of the trouble of paint sprayers, you can make your 18 year old vehicle look new again, just by using rattle cans, I did. For plastics, it works great, I would not recommend doing it that way on any metal parts of the body, for that it has to be done right with a sprayer and even than, its really hard to match to the original. But for plastics and front ends rattle cans, get the job done well. I wish I could post my before and after photos, I have one of the nicer s10's still on the road with that victory red, its an 01' with 117,000 miles and looks better than the Colorado's out now.
@@BulliKid I left it the way it was after I was done. You can put a clear coat on afterward if you want to, its optional, but it came out so good, just like the original, so I left it. A lot of times that clear coat in the rattle can comes out uneven and looks bad, so I didn't take the chance with it. I used several coats of the color so it should hold up well, I'll just have to see how long it holds up, either way, its 1000 X better than it was, like a brand new modernized 18 year old truck. 👍 I highly recommend this for anyone who has an S10 with a faded front grill, it was easy to do and brought it back to life.
I appreciate the video. You made it very simple yet precise. It gave me the boost of confidence to try this myself on a trailer I’ve been meaning to paint, thanks!
I make a 4’ air hose. Just a swivel to the gun with no fittings so the hose and swivel are the only thing on the gun. Then at the end of the hose I run 2 silica filters, water separator and gauge. Then connect your air supply there. Throw it over your shoulder, carabiner to your belt so it doesnt swing off and hit the paint. The whole settup hangs around my lower back and i dont have a ton of stuff on the bottom of my gun.
Ive had excellent results using urethane enamel reducers and hardeners. You have more control with dry times and as a plus quick dry times give you less trash in the finish. Rustoleum is an excellent exterior paint, I've used it for years. Great video man
@@BulliKid Just a warning about adding hardeners to Rustoleum- They have some very NASTY chemicals in them, isocyanates to be exact. Most people can handle very brief exposure to it, BUT, some end up in the hospital within 10 minutes as it affects the central nervous system. It really does make the paint shine much deeper and very wear resistant. I use it on snow plows all the time. Please wear a full body suit and helmet that has fresh air being pumped into it for breathing. It enters your body much faster through your eyes then skin, thats why you have to cover EVERYTHING when you mix it into your paint and spray. The respirator you were using will NOT filter it out, most won't. Thats why you need to have an outside oxygen supply. Great job though so far!
I been doing motorcycles with Rust-Oleum for about 5 years I find a mix of 40% cut and 1/2 0z hardener makes a perfect finish less dry time... great video keep them coming I'm a subscriber to your channel now
Easy way to dust proof and get better air flow... Poly Sheeting, and PVC piping. Here in Florida, humidity and heat are ridiculous. So I got around $30 of 1.5in pvc and a few T joints and rigged up an 8x6x8 frame (I'm 6'7" 330lbs so you will likely not need to go as big) and used the poly (visqueen) to seal it. I put in a floor AC/Dehumidifier on one end venting out a hole in the visqueen. And on the other side, I attached a large ShopVac (I too like some things at harbor freight, but avoid their shop vacs like they are coughing in a Covid-19 testing facility). By the time it was done, I didnt even need to wear a respirator (so I did an n95) I was not expecting it to work so well. Also, I had the pvc roof of the small room attached to to the ceiling and it allowed to hang up things I would spray. Make sure to use a marker to number the joint pieces you connect in the pvc. That way you can take it back down, and put it back up with ease. Also, it stops the neighbors from calling the cops. Freaking babies act like theyve never seen a naked giant spraying paint before!!! Grow up people!!! XD
MrCarter'sRods hahah good tips my friend. In a perfect world with a bigger garage I would love to do something like yourself up. The shop vac is a new and clever idea! 👍 thanks for the comment.
Your result looks really good. I did black, 5/2/0.5 (Rustoleum, acetone, Krylon hardener) so, very similar to your 10/4 ratio. Brother by another mother or something. It turned out so well, I wanted to paint the cats who tried their best to put fur on everything. It was the first ratio I tried. I was lucky. Very tough, durable finish, yet surprisingly flexible. Tip: when pouring from a full square can, hold the can so the lid opening is at the top (not at the bottom as everyone always does). This produces a stream pour v a sloshing-everywhere, running-down-the-can pour. Nitrile gloves. Acetone is nasty stuff.
Oh sorry for so many comments but the trick for not getting trash on the piece that you're working on if you don't have a spray booth is spray it and then put a cardboard box over it or in your case since it's so big make some kind of a cheap frame around it and then tape some plastic sheeting on it. It might take a little longer for it to dry but it should prevent all that garbage going on to it since you're not using proper paint
Another tip if the compressor you are using is around 4.5 cfm and small tank 115v you can get another for around $100.00 and add the 2 out lines into one line and add a cheap water separator and if compressors have adjustable regulators ok or add one in line to your gun and a cheap in line filter to remove oil and water mist . So to sum up 2 cheap 4.5 cfm compressors =9 cfm which is about what you need to run that paint gun your using . I have tons of experience using old school enamel paint and acrylic lacquer from working many years in a gm dealership when going to school and college,the Oem paint was acrylic lacquer on gm car back then .I would install some pleated furnace filters at one end to get cross draft and dust stop filter on the in put of you fans . Painted my vette using 2 4.5 cfm compressors. I painted my supercharged modded 1976 Oem gm acrylic lacquer vette in blue and diamond metal flake old school acrylic lacquer and buried the flake in many many coats of clear acrylic lacquer wet and dry sanding ever few coats and applying over a couple of weeks to allow drying . The vette turned out car show perfect after rubbing out with rubbing compound and 2 coats of carnauba wax turned out car show quality . Now if you car is a daily driver don’t do any radical time consuming paint to many car haters will destroy it just for fun . The rust paint will work great some hardware even sell urethane fortified rust paint which work great for car and boats if applied correctly and with correct cfm compressor s no hardener . Once the car is painted leave in garage 2 days then on third day put out side for hour or 2 to help harden the paint keep paint dry for about a week . After a week if paint is not sticky you can rinse off with cold water from a garden hose water( not a power washer ) and wipe dry with a synthetic car shammy don’t leave water droplets on the car as it could cause permanent marks , once paint is dry about a month possibly less wax the car it will look amazing do it in the shade only and do half the hood and remove with clean micro cloth .Do the rest of the car a 1/2 panel at a time don’t let it dry don’t rub too hard . To maintain these old school paint jobs hand wash then wax every few months. If a panel get s damaged clean with silicone wax remover wash with dish detergent then sand prep and re paint ,I recommend getting extra paint and keep cool dry location for future touch ups of entire panels . Good luck have fun stay safe keep away from isocyanate hardener paints and be very careful not to cause a fire hazard from paint fumes and spray and sparks
If any one would like to see what can be accomplished at home using cheap equipment and a small garage I will send a picture of my rest rod paint job. king.2018@my.com
One concern I have do the other resident ever complain smell or fumes , and be careful paint does not exit out of fan and overspray go on to somes car or boat . Not sure what you climate is like if in southern USA but I would do a night or on week day when every ones out working keep it low key and don’t walk out side wearing respirator or opening garage for other to see and attract attention,other are lazy and jealous and litigation minded and love to spoil our hobbies and fun . That another reason to not spray isocyanate hardener in paints as some one could get a reaction and sue . So just my years of hot rodding and restoring older cars and trucks hope this helps good luck
Really these things aren't something you can learn by just watching UA-cam videos but by just doing it. Not blaming ya to practise on a broken bumper. It really looks good tbh. Really need a clean garage for this stuff but you prepped the most you could down there so good job! Subbed for these kinds of videos.
Adding more thinner actually will help your paint to dry faster and flash off faster adding Hardner will increase the durability and add just a slight glass to your paint
GREGSGUNSONLINE Do not use hardener that contains MDI which is methyl di isocyanate with the location and equipment your using and your half mask it won’t protect you . Those hardeners are extremely toxic and go right through a half mask and in your skin and eyes . I was poisoned by isocyanate in canned spray expanding foam insulation purchased from a box store . I sprayed the consumer grade expanding foam which contains isocyanate or MDI to holes drilled small boat sub floor while wearing the exact same respirator you are using out side while standing up .The symptoms could be tight chest flushed face ,itchy eyes , asthma , difficulties in breathing which could be life threatening all of which could become permanent .Each exposure to isocyanate builds up in the body and stay with you for life till just sanding some old clear coat or urethane paint will cause you to react . Please check on you tube isocyanate safe usage there is tons of videos on here about it . Now if you are using the single part paint you are using and let it dry for couple of days minimum without hardener with acetone you will be fine . Stay safe just follow safety reguarding flash fires which is a danger also paint spray and a spark could = flash fire or explosion
Thanks for that. A lot of diy painters do not give enough tarts toon to the seriousness of safety. My dads friend is battling lung cancer he sprayed furniture for a living.
Because of the isocyanate I only spray paint like your using without any hardener and lacquer paint . I did a acrylic lacquer metal and diamond metal flake paint job to my modded c3vette in a garage like yours and hand rubbed out after many coats of clear acrylic lacquer wet sanding every 4 coats turned out like a show car but was lots of work , the reason the industry switched to 2 part isocyanate hardened paint was because it has less VOCs but is dangerous because of it affects on the painter lolo and because it can be recoated without wrinkling and it’s more durable and fades less from uv and is fast to use and apply.
I painted the front of my work truck with rust oleum. Right from the spray can. It has a very narrow pattern but didn’t create any tiger stripping. It was white so I’m not sure if that helped it not show. I think I’ll throw a can of 2 k clear over it. The whole truck only has 1k paint. Which really sucks and doesn’t have a clear coat. Just cleaning it removes paint. Plastic is cheap and will make cleanup easier. Check out zip wall. You should cover the fans with filters to trap the paint and dust . When I sprayed inside my garage I stapled the plastic to the ceiling.
Gene Miller yea def not the best. If you sprayed the rustoleum with the gun you can at least add hardener and from what I hear it helps a lot! But best would be 2k clear.
Great job 👍 Be careful laying down alkyd to thick with multiple coats, as the coats dry they shrink. Causing a crackle effect . Also look for silicone alkyd at your paint store. Can be mixed in custom colors and is easy to use like rusto. Very durable product
Each spraygun in each nozzle even on the same guns can spray slightly differently so the trick is getting the paint first of all to the right viscosity for that airgun the guidelines are just starting points for you you have to experiment a little bit to find what’s going to work for your gun your air pressures and your techniques it is a learning process And when you change something in the system you’re using even when you change brands of paint different kinds of paint everything changes which is what you’re learning now
I'm proud of you for attempting this. Some helpful tips; I think you were holding the gun a little too far away from the bumper on the 1st coat. Also, pay attention to moving across the panel from end to end in smooth even strokes, with good over-lap on each new pass, and then also keep in mind you need to focus on maintaining a WET edge at all times. Bouncing around on the panel is a good way to have dry spots, and uneven coverage, striping, over-spray, etc; Plus look at all the walking around you were doing. I would go from end to end multiple times until you have complete coverage, then go back afterwards and spray into the cut outs that might have gotten missed. Removing nibs you can use a piece of masking tape folded back onto itself with the glue side OUT and just lightly touch it to the debris and try and pull it out that way. Also... you might want to just hold the trigger squeezed at all times as you go off the end of the panel, and then come back on.. When you release the trigger there will be MORE pressure build up in the hose and when you pull the trigger again it will be a burst of air pressure until the pressure gets down to what you have set on your regulator.. To avoid that initial burst of air on trigger pull-and the coarse/dry spots that result-just don't release the trigger as you go off the edge of the panel! It makes for a more even finish with no dry spots, and reduced orange peel, at the edges of the panel. Everything I know I learned from Paint Society here on UA-cam! Keep up the great work! I bet after wet sanding, its gonna POP! I gave you a thumbs up as well!
That’s for the comment and all the tips!! Appreciate you watching my videos. Yes paint society is awesome! Hopefully I can do more pint projects in the future and improve my DIY technique. 👍🙌💪
I’m using 4 parts paint, 3 parts thinner and 1 part hardener. Paint gets dry to the touch in 24 hours & fully hard in 3-4 days while maintaining good gloss. I found a clear coat that I’m going to try on mine soon.
@@BulliKid I use wet look high solids hardener off ebay. Acetone to thin it. The clear coat I want to go with is majic brand sold at tractor supply company. They recommend this clear be used over their implement paint which is an alkyd enamel just like rustoleum.
@@BulliKid from the website: "Apply over properly cured Tractor, Truck & Implement Enamel" www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/majic-clear-coat-high-gloss-laquer-clear-1-gal
Yea I saw that. Will look into it. But it’s not a real 2k I believe. I plan to buy speedokote clear which at least is a real 2k clear and will see the results. Will probably reclear some faded headlights with that too.
It is a bit of an experiment so you might also try increasing your pressure and spraying at higher pressures with those thicker paints that aren’t being thinned very much What you want to do is get the viscosity of the paint down low so when you’re mixing it and you pull your stick of the pot paint should flow off of your mixing stick quickly and turn into a drip within a couple of seconds buy three or four seconds it shouldn’t drip at all you know you have the right viscosity when that happens and that your paint gun will Adam is it
Yes I will experiment and see how different thinning affect the final outcome. Ideally would like to lay down paint smoother to possibly not have to wet sand and buff.
Well done. I liked the video, you did a great job of explaining everything and you did everything correctly. It was a good video. When playing with rustoleum if you lightly use a heat gun it smooths it out real nice. You did great
You really only want to do one tack coat. It is just a thin coat that ensures the rest will adhere properly. After that, you want to open it up a little bit with thicker coats. If you don't, you get a "dry" finish, the spotty (looks like it needs tack clothed) finish. That leads to orange peel and fish eye. You'll be amazed at the difference. It should only require 3 coats, including the tack coat. Glad to see you're trying though, keep up the good work.
Hint: When doing a front or rear bumper cover you need to add some Flex Additive to allow the paint to stay flexible or it will dry and harden over time and crack if he cover ever gets flexed.
Good job... a few good tips! Going to paint a trailer frame using this method, should turn out really nice. Harbor Freight gun great for backyard DIY. Thanks!
I've never used a psi gauge on a gun, ever! No old timer does! Most of us use a hand to crimp the hose as we go. Any experienced painter knows psi down to the inch. Been working for 5 dacades. Boy that paint is thick. Use a viscometer
Just a tip instead of like 5 coats u can do only 2 and get a glass like finish so u put on a tack coat first that's a light coat like u were . What till it gets tacky not dry dry but not wet .. u want to be abkento touch the paint aka over spray on something like masking tape or paper .. once its sticky but no paint transfers to ur fingure ur ready for second coat put that coat on heavy .. medium wet closer to the wet . That should give u full coverage and avoids that dry look . Dont be scared to run it ... cause of u are u will be doing lots of light coats
You should find a automotive paint store and use there miss matched paint some store sale there mistakes but you will get even more experience by usuing the automotive paint but keep up the great work
Remember the difference between 1K paint and 2K paints 2K paints require a catalyst to harden the paint either fast slow medium or super fast 1K paints don’t require it like rust oleum so you can use thinner to thin that paint down the thinner will cause the paint to be thin plus flash and dry faster more coats may be required But the trade-off is the paint is a lot cheaper it will require more time to apply but it’s a lot cheaper
I just didn’t want to have the paint running on. And some people were saying if you thin too much you won’t be able to apply a nice wet coat that builds up. Still came out good. There is orange peal but would a more diluted ratio give less orange peal? I did wet sand and polish to my ability and came out great! Appreciate any input! Thanks
@@BulliKid yeah you can cut and tape some hepa filters in the side with a fan but honestly you dont need to just spray it and get out less air flow less chance of contamination if there is overspray it will polish off easily.
The hardener would have made it a lot easier and it would dry in 5 to 10 minutes to the touch I painted my van with the safety red and I use a sponge roller 50%rustoleum 50%duplicolor reducer and a bout 2 tablespoon of trinity paint hardener I never wet sand or buffed it but I have plan to repaint it next month useling a harbor freight compressor and paind gun rustoleum safety red using the same technique
Well that turned out really well. Good to watch too. Nice pattern on the spray gun too. I think there maybe less debri using 2-pack as it probably dries faster.
Yes if it was 2 stage paint I would be able to tack cloth it after every coat. and the main concern would be clear coat. It was a great experience non the less. A lot of work I must say. Cant imagine how long a entire car with fixing dents and using filler would take.
I had to comment, when spraying guide coat you NEED it to be primer paint. Regular paint will clog your sandpaper immediately and wont let you sand correctly. The rest of the video is ok and informative for amateurs, keep learning and making videos tho, you're almost there
Kar Kraftsman thanks bud, how do you like the widow? It was on sale for $150 in Black Friday. I ended up buying a welder for 150 but that gun looked very nice.
if you gotta go cheap maybe a quart of duplicolor instead? Or add some hardener to the rust-O? Cant have long tacky-times when you're painting at home. But no matter what, always end up with debris to sand out.
Good points. The long wait times destroy the finish with contamination. Heck even I am spraying 2k clear over headlights with a fast hardener and I get a bunch of dust specs and junk in the clear. And that is dry to the touch in like 20 mins.
Then in allows you to take thick paints and thin them to get the proper viscosity for spraying through the different sizes of nozzles on your spray guns Under different pressures and different at most Feerick conditions and different temperatures colder temperatures will make your paints thicker to spray higher temperatures will make your payments then her to spray a lot of guys who spray clearcoat over there basecoat will warm them are clear coats up to about 83 84 85° before even putting it into the gun and spraying it this helps thin your clearcoat down without even using any thinners that way you don’t lose any gloss. Because it’s OK to add a little bit of thinners to your clearcoat like 5% or 10% or 15% but keep in mind it will take away a little bit of gloss. Now keep in mind with automotive paint and gloss, the solid contents of your paints start out being a lot thinner but still need to be thinned some paints have more medium solids which are MS and some are HS high Solids or VHS very high solids the solids are what make your paint thicker and give you more build up on the surface. So I think paint like rust oleum which will have very high solids and is designed to be brushed on or rolled on so a lot of thinner must be used to get the paint down to the right viscosity so you can spray with it .Hey viscosity cup is useful for these reasons they can be found on several paint websites or Amazon
That maybe why your filters are cracking. Those filters are rated at 90 psi. If you’re pushing 120 psi thats not good for thos filters. I use 175 psi max filters/separators. You can find those at HF as well.
CS Fabrication, LLC hey I appreciate the comment. I wish I saw my own style video when I was learning the steps myself. Glad it can help you! God bless
@@BulliKid I use them for a couple paint jobs then replace them to be sure to keep moisture out of the paint. My luck I would have the gun spray water on a large panel or hood at the very end! LOL! For the price, it is an easy decision to keep changing them just to be safe!
No need for thread tape on the plastic filters. It adds too much thickness and aids in cracking. The filter already being plastic is enough and can still be tightened hang tight.
You are right my first coat was bad. I was painting like I would with spray paint. 3-5 coats were steady wrist and heavier coats. But yes it’s a learning curve. Thanks for the input I appreciate your keen observation!
This gun just went on sale for $10 I already have a couple of gallons of rustoleum paint for touching up my trailer and my utility bed. so I'm gonna give it a test on some aluminum table legs i welded up.
@@BulliKid turned out okay fell off bumper hit side with hose. Tip paintt roof first hahahaha. Used 8 oz paint 4 oz reducer 1 oz hardner pretty cold in Detroit got heaters going
Rob Mendoza it wouldn’t matter. Primer or paint , either way it will be sanded flat and even. I actually seen people use a dedicated powder guide coat and that looks like it’s the best.
Thank you. Yes I did a lot of homework and was still stressed about doing this whole experiment. But hey just gota do it and make my mistakes and keep living life! Thanks for feedback!
If you add a hardener with your paint, you'll get a much shinier and harder paint job that will last a lot longer. I noticed the fans plowing out the door....now you have a yellow driveway?!!
Which Rustoleum type paint is this? I tried this and mixed with acetone and the paint congealed. Got the Rustoleum from Home Depot. Do they sell different Rustoleum elsewhere? I know stupid question. Mine may have been water based. Is there a different (i.e. Oil based Rustoleum) as I did not see any at the Homer
thatwasinteresting2 its an oil based paint. The paint is in the video when I start mixing it. You can see how it looks like. Water based pint mixes with water to dilute not solvent like acetone.
Thanks for the tip. This was my first time spraying paint with a hvlp. There was a ton of orange peel. But once we set sand it and buff we cut it down quite well. But a off the gun finish with no buffing would have saved me 10 hours minimum !
@@BulliKid ya you will get the hang of it as you get more practice il tell you that the cheaper guns alot of times just have alot of orange peel because they are alot harder to spray with and get a good finish
Yea this one has a small fan pattern it seems like and needs more psi to lay the paint down. I’ll experiment more in the next few coming months with warmer weather.
I've sprayed some rustoleum a couple times and I use mineral spirits to reduce it. In fact I think the last time I sprayed it was with the HF gun. I think you need to get a little thinner mixture and adjust the gun a little different. Getting quite a bit of orange peel there my friend. It takes some practice but it will lay out pretty smooth.
@@BulliKid How much air pressure are you using? I know it's an HVLP gun but you will probably have to run 40 lbs into it? If your paint is too thick or air pressure too low you're going to get the orange peel. I normally spray with a binks hvlp with the gun set at about 2 turns out on the fluid and around 40 psi coming in. That's painting with high dollar PPG paint though. Everyone does a little different. Speed of the paint stroke matters too. Push it until you get slick paint and a run then adjust back a little
funk i was using 27-30 psi. The gauge wasn’t very accurate and asked the eBay seller to send me a replacement. (2 months ago). And now a refund because never arrived. I think the gun has a max psi rating itself but not sure if 30 or 40. I saw most people spray base with 27-28 and clear 29-30 psi. But yah rustoleum is different ball park that I didn’t consider. Thinner paint and more pressure should help in the future.
You should take it all apart at first. And clean after every paint job. I just spray some cleaner before I add paint just in case. Cleaning gun is very important.
I have been refinishing over 20 years and a licensed tech collision branch 1.
And yes I have painted several used cars with Rustolium or trimclad, it’s just old alkyd enamel, this is very close to the paint they used in the 60’s and 70’s, the pre curser to acrylic enamel. Alkyd enamel is very easy to spray, use lacquer thinners 20-40%, just takes a long time to cure, it works as a cheap cheap durable paint. Last car I did was for my parents, 12 year old bonneville, the car was white and peeling, I buzzed it all down with 320, used lacquer prime in a few spots, sanded the spots, taped and shot the entire car with white trimclad, 5 light coats, lasted over 6 years till the transmission blew up, car went to the junk yard with a shinny shinny paint job. Cost me under $250 with masking, primer and single stage top coat.
Very nice story. Why lacquer as thinner though? I have heard mixed reviews
It is great that you are practicing and learning how to do this stuff. Everyone is telling you what you are doing wrong, but I think you are doing good. It isn't auto paint, and it isn't a cut and dry recipe to make it come out right. It is rustoleum. Experimenting is good. Find out what works for you and your application. Keep it up.
Hey ! Appreciate the positive support! Thank you for watching!
@@BulliKid their eye was so good they missed half the bumper missing!!!!!
Clayton Parkhurst hahah true that! That’s what I’m working with. I found the parts to practice painting on them!
Very true I used rustolum years ago. I was on a painting kick painting metal around the house garbage cans plumbing pips metal out side chairs. I was testing the paint out before I used it to paint my metal dash in my 1972 GMC Suburban. I end up painting the whole inside of my suburban and it came out great this was 14 year's ago and it still looks good. If I would have bought automotive paint it would have cost at least $300 buck's that's what made me try rustolum in the inside of my truck. Now for the out side I used HOT ROD FLATS this is some real good durable paint. The prep work was the whole work I used primer filler some thick stuff you have to work fast when spraying it because it's like spray on bondo that fills in all the area's I may have mist plus it let the paint job hang on to my rid. The car got a few dings over the year's but the paint did not chip off. If anyone is interested in flat paint I would recommend "HOT ROD FLATS"
SNOOP U 2 thanks for that info. Many people will look into rustoleum for the $$ reasons.
Ya know, regardless of the setbacks, the conditions, and experience, you can’t change the effect without “proper” setup. I appreciated the realness because we all experienced what you show. My next video will disturb the masses. Keep at it
I'm glad to see this kind of work being done in a garage, reminds me of my early days!
Jack Petersen humble beginnings!
tip from a professional painter , try turning the fluid down abit more and getting closer to the panel buddy , being to far away the paint has atomised and then started to accumulate back into larger droplets again by that point so getting close will help to keep it atomised better and lay down smoother
Thank you for the tip. I did notice looking back the first 2 coats I was way far and swinging the wrist like a spray can. I will use this too next time ! :)
@@BulliKid no problem buddy always keen to watch peoples journeys with spraying buddy, yeah keeping it as uniform and as even from the panel at all times will help massively too but thats comes in time dude keep practising man itll come we all started somewhere
Tonys_Refinishing exactly. This is my first time with youtube as my education. So only can do better from here.
BULLI KID yeah man I remember putting up my first things on UA-cam lol was so long ago 😂
It’s always nice when people advise rather than criticise. Especially so when the advice comes with an explanation as well, as in this case. Too many people are too quick to put young people down forgetting they were just learning a craft themselves at one point.
Tape a cheap 20 X 20 furnace filter over the inlet side of each of your fans to catch the paint particles, to keep them out of the grill, the blades and the motor.
Good advice. Was wondering what I can do do catch some of that overspray!
is it worth getting raw material and making your own filters? or is it cheap enough to just get the stuff off the shelf at home depot? i’m thinking about cheese cloth or coffee filters or something like that you might have available or whatever
ohzak’s My biggest concern are not the fans it is the overspray going towards the house and cars parked outside. My car was parked quite a bit away from this paint area and recently I did a clay bar and detail on it and I picked up a lot of yellow paint from the clay bar.
@@BulliKid you need a better gun. that well make less over spray. one step paints take a larger tip 1.8 ....2 steps take more prep and a smaller tip 1.2 or 1.3 . look at the gun reviews on you tube check out gun man on you tube. i have the deilbiss tekna pro lite supper all around gun. much luck to you keep it up i learned just the way you did..
People say spray single stage like clear coat. More psi and thicker. But most clear coats are sprayed with smaller tips right?
A mixing tip. Use an eye-bolt with your cordless drill. No sharp edges to cut the can or mixing cup and no splashing. Anyway, you really seem to have it all together. Best of luck to you.
Joe Atwork thank you. Just have to experiment a little more with better automotive paint.
Thanks for the tip👍
It's time... for the Joe Atwork show.
Keep the drill away, don't need sparks to set the fumes into a fire
@@howifixit6206 It's hard enough to get paint to burn with an open flame. A 12-18v arc isn't hot enough to do anything. You have a better chance of igniting wood dust with your tablesaw.
Seriously though bro you explain this better than anyone that I have ever seen at UA-cam video on thank you for naturally explaining very important knowledge not repeating shit that people say in other videos and acting like it's theirs appreciate it you make UA-cam worth it
I like the tape hack on the can when pouring the paint
now why would there be dust in your shop? lol
Im Loving that tape trick for pouring too
Lol “shop”
that's a old trick
Found these videos 1 week before I was attempting to spray rustoleum !!! Lol I'm so glad I stumbled apon these ...tons of great tips I just learned bros ...thanks a bunch from Canada homie ....awesome results btw
Thanks!! Appreciate the comment! Like the videos to show support 💪
Right on spot how you went step by step. Prep is key to a great paint job.
Thank you. Tried to do all the steps
The "keep your dogs hydrated" comment alone is worth a like. I'll never paint a car due to disabilities, but there were plenty of great tips for my small projects. The quantities guide is also very useful and I did screen shot it, thank you. I also like that you admit to being a learner and you share what you’ve learnt thus far in a modest way. So many people learn something new and talk like they are experts within a week.
Rather than risk your mobile phone when recording close up have you thought of attaching a second hand Go-Pro to your gun? I know you’ve said you don’t like the bulk of the water trap and gauge in the past but it could be attachable in a non intrusive way and the waterproof models are light and should clean fairly easily.
Thanks for the comment. Thanks for watching. I try my best to learn and document. As far as the phone I ended up getting water damage pressure washing a engine I am taking apart. :(
Gopro just doesn’t have the close up detail I would like
This video was worth it alone for that masking tape trick while pouring paint from a can.
Why have I never thought of that?
hah glad to hear! subb to support!
Good on you kid for getting after it and getting your hands dirty.👍👍👍
Thanks!!! This all new to me! It was stressful but good experience.
Forget the paint..............That grass looks amazing........
If I get 10,000 likes I will reveal my secrets haha
Hahaha I had the same thought when watching
ikr, I was thinking don't kill the grass, I hate when people do projects on the lawn
I agreee
He may have painted grass lol
pro tip: add 1/4 Behr hardener to your paint and thinner ratio and open the fluid tip up to like a 1.6 equivalent. Spray a few tack coats then hose it on. Oil based is very different from urethane so you cannot get a nice finish by spraying tons of light coats.
Yea I noticed the thin coats where not giving me the texture I wanted. So then went heavier. Thank you for the tip. The primer was so nice to lay down. I thought the paint would be the same but I was dead wrong. Especially like you said, oil paint very different.
@@BulliKid rust oleum oil is harder to work with imo than nason automotive. Auto paint 2 light then 1 or 2 wet. Then 2k clear. Wet sanding and buffing the clear gets the shine. That paint is more general purpose where you don't usually top coat and don't need a deep automotive shine. But you're doing great job with it!
Joe Smith never sprayed automotive paint or anything other then what I did in these videos. But would be nice to compare and share my experience
You may want to put a filter on the back of your fans, it will help to keep the dust/pollen down. Also, try using a 3 to 6 foot piece of hose between the gun and the filter. This makes the "stack" of equipment a little shorter and helps to improve the gun handling and reduces the strain on the filter. Your process looks pretty nice. Keep up the good work.
Oil base paint takes a long time to dry unless you add hardner. It will last a long time I sprayed some things around the house with BLACK RUSTOLUME 10 year's ago and it's still holding up. I was on a painting kick to put some color on metal things around the house garbage cans plumbing pop's metal out side chairs.
Thanks for putting in the work to make a video on this. Doing the best you can in the garage with what you have to work with.
Exactly my man! Thanks for the appreciation! God bless!
I just replaced the lower bumper on my 2001 Chevy S10 and repainted my grill.
All of those parts are plastic.
I just used Duplicolor rattle cans and one Duplicolor bumper and trim black.
On the lower bumper that was brand new that I replaced had no paint, first I sprayed it with a tacky adhesive primer. A few coats, waited 10 minutes on the last coat of that primer and started the top coat, while it was tacky per the instructions. It took a total of 3, 8 oz cans of rattle can victory red and the lower bumper looks just like the original that came from the factory.
For the grill which already had paint but was faded by the sun, I first layed down the chrome using a rattle can for the center chrome strip. Chrome in paint cans never comes out as chrome, it comes out more of a grey/silver, but none the less looks good, that applies to all brands, don't expect a chrome from a rattle can, it comes out silver. I removed the center chevy bowtie which was a gold, painted that black using the rattle can. Waited for the chrome to completely dry 24 hours, taped it off and than painted the rest of the grill black. It was a 3 day process, all done with rattle cans. I also straightened out the metal part of the bumper which got bent 6 years ago in a fender bender. Put it all back on, threw on a new set of headlights with silverstar Ultra bulbs and the truck looks like it came from the factory, it also looks like a more modern s10.
So for those who don't want to go thru all of the trouble of paint sprayers, you can make your 18 year old vehicle look new again, just by using rattle cans, I did.
For plastics, it works great, I would not recommend doing it that way on any metal parts of the body, for that it has to be done right with a sprayer and even than, its really hard to match to the original. But for plastics and front ends rattle cans, get the job done well. I wish I could post my before and after photos, I have one of the nicer s10's still on the road with that victory red, its an 01' with 117,000 miles and looks better than the Colorado's out now.
Great story! I have heard good things about those rattle can paint jobs! Did you clear the paint after? Or is it a single stage paint?
@@BulliKid I left it the way it was after I was done. You can put a clear coat on afterward if you want to, its optional, but it came out so good, just like the original, so I left it. A lot of times that clear coat in the rattle can comes out uneven and looks bad, so I didn't take the chance with it. I used several coats of the color so it should hold up well, I'll just have to see how long it holds up, either way, its 1000 X better than it was, like a brand new modernized 18 year old truck. 👍
I highly recommend this for anyone who has an S10 with a faded front grill, it was easy to do and brought it back to life.
Fearless glad you are happy with the car again! That’s what it’s all about. Making some old look much better!
I appreciate the video. You made it very simple yet precise. It gave me the boost of confidence to try this myself on a trailer I’ve been meaning to paint, thanks!
I’m glad to hear that. Subscribe for support and please check out my painting playlist for more videos.
I make a 4’ air hose. Just a swivel to the gun with no fittings so the hose and swivel are the only thing on the gun. Then at the end of the hose I run 2 silica filters, water separator and gauge. Then connect your air supply there. Throw it over your shoulder, carabiner to your belt so it doesnt swing off and hit the paint. The whole settup hangs around my lower back and i dont have a ton of stuff on the bottom of my gun.
Ive had excellent results using urethane enamel reducers and hardeners. You have more control with dry times and as a plus quick dry times give you less trash in the finish. Rustoleum is an excellent exterior paint, I've used it for years.
Great video man
Mike Eldreth yes quicker dry times and less runs would give you a good finish for sure!
@@BulliKid Just a warning about adding hardeners to Rustoleum- They have some very NASTY chemicals in them, isocyanates to be exact. Most people can handle very brief exposure to it, BUT, some end up in the hospital within 10 minutes as it affects the central nervous system. It really does make the paint shine much deeper and very wear resistant. I use it on snow plows all the time. Please wear a full body suit and helmet that has fresh air being pumped into it for breathing. It enters your body much faster through your eyes then skin, thats why you have to cover EVERYTHING when you mix it into your paint and spray. The respirator you were using will NOT filter it out, most won't. Thats why you need to have an outside oxygen supply. Great job though so far!
Do all 2 part systems have isocyanates?
I been doing motorcycles with Rust-Oleum for about 5 years I find a mix of 40% cut and 1/2 0z hardener makes a perfect finish less dry time... great video keep them coming I'm a subscriber to your channel now
what do you cut with?
Thanks for the sub
Easy way to dust proof and get better air flow... Poly Sheeting, and PVC piping.
Here in Florida, humidity and heat are ridiculous. So I got around $30 of 1.5in pvc and a few T joints and rigged up an 8x6x8 frame (I'm 6'7" 330lbs so you will likely not need to go as big) and used the poly (visqueen) to seal it.
I put in a floor AC/Dehumidifier on one end venting out a hole in the visqueen. And on the other side, I attached a large ShopVac (I too like some things at harbor freight, but avoid their shop vacs like they are coughing in a Covid-19 testing facility).
By the time it was done, I didnt even need to wear a respirator (so I did an n95) I was not expecting it to work so well.
Also, I had the pvc roof of the small room attached to to the ceiling and it allowed to hang up things I would spray.
Make sure to use a marker to number the joint pieces you connect in the pvc. That way you can take it back down, and put it back up with ease.
Also, it stops the neighbors from calling the cops. Freaking babies act like theyve never seen a naked giant spraying paint before!!! Grow up people!!! XD
MrCarter'sRods hahah good tips my friend. In a perfect world with a bigger garage I would love to do something like yourself up. The shop vac is a new and clever idea! 👍 thanks for the comment.
Videos and pics or it didn’t happen! Please share like this good fella making free videos!
Damn, this was such a helpful video and you’re so informative and not cringey
Hay i appreciate the comment!
BULLI KID fax
Your result looks really good. I did black, 5/2/0.5 (Rustoleum, acetone, Krylon hardener) so, very similar to your 10/4 ratio. Brother by another mother or something. It turned out so well, I wanted to paint the cats who tried their best to put fur on everything. It was the first ratio I tried. I was lucky. Very tough, durable finish, yet surprisingly flexible.
Tip: when pouring from a full square can, hold the can so the lid opening is at the top (not at the bottom as everyone always does). This produces a stream pour v a sloshing-everywhere, running-down-the-can pour. Nitrile gloves. Acetone is nasty stuff.
Oh sorry for so many comments but the trick for not getting trash on the piece that you're working on if you don't have a spray booth is spray it and then put a cardboard box over it or in your case since it's so big make some kind of a cheap frame around it and then tape some plastic sheeting on it. It might take a little longer for it to dry but it should prevent all that garbage going on to it since you're not using proper paint
true! i had to buff this out to get alot of trash and orange peal out of the paint job!
Another tip if the compressor you are using is around 4.5 cfm and small tank 115v you can get another for around $100.00 and add the 2 out lines into one line and add a cheap water separator and if compressors have adjustable regulators ok or add one in line to your gun and a cheap in line filter to remove oil and water mist . So to sum up 2 cheap 4.5 cfm compressors =9 cfm which is about what you need to run that paint gun your using . I have tons of experience using old school enamel paint and acrylic lacquer from working many years in a gm dealership when going to school and college,the Oem paint was acrylic lacquer on gm car back then .I would install some pleated furnace filters at one end to get cross draft and dust stop filter on the in put of you fans . Painted my vette using 2 4.5 cfm compressors. I painted my supercharged modded 1976 Oem gm acrylic lacquer vette in blue and diamond metal flake old school acrylic lacquer and buried the flake in many many coats of clear acrylic lacquer wet and dry sanding ever few coats and applying over a couple of weeks to allow drying . The vette turned out car show perfect after rubbing out with rubbing compound and 2 coats of carnauba wax turned out car show quality . Now if you car is a daily driver don’t do any radical time consuming paint to many car haters will destroy it just for fun . The rust paint will work great some hardware even sell urethane fortified rust paint which work great for car and boats if applied correctly and with correct cfm compressor s no hardener . Once the car is painted leave in garage 2 days then on third day put out side for hour or 2 to help harden the paint keep paint dry for about a week . After a week if paint is not sticky you can rinse off with cold water from a garden hose water( not a power washer ) and wipe dry with a synthetic car shammy don’t leave water droplets on the car as it could cause permanent marks , once paint is dry about a month possibly less wax the car it will look amazing do it in the shade only and do half the hood and remove with clean micro cloth .Do the rest of the car a 1/2 panel at a time don’t let it dry don’t rub too hard . To maintain these old school paint jobs hand wash then wax every few months. If a panel get s damaged clean with silicone wax remover wash with dish detergent then sand prep and re paint ,I recommend getting extra paint and keep cool dry location for future touch ups of entire panels . Good luck have fun stay safe keep away from isocyanate hardener paints and be very careful not to cause a fire hazard from paint fumes and spray and sparks
nick king thanks. I never would have even thought of that idea.
If any one would like to see what can be accomplished at home using cheap equipment and a small garage I will send a picture of my rest rod paint job. king.2018@my.com
BULLI KID your welcome Nick from 🇨🇦
One concern I have do the other resident ever complain smell or fumes , and be careful paint does not exit out of fan and overspray go on to somes car or boat . Not sure what you climate is like if in southern USA but I would do a night or on week day when every ones out working keep it low key and don’t walk out side wearing respirator or opening garage for other to see and attract attention,other are lazy and jealous and litigation minded and love to spoil our hobbies and fun . That another reason to not spray isocyanate hardener in paints as some one could get a reaction and sue . So just my years of hot rodding and restoring older cars and trucks hope this helps good luck
Really these things aren't something you can learn by just watching UA-cam videos but by just doing it.
Not blaming ya to practise on a broken bumper. It really looks good tbh. Really need a clean garage for this stuff but you prepped the most you could down there so good job!
Subbed for these kinds of videos.
Thanks for the sub! Yes it was my first time and working with what I have! It was challenging but fun!
Adding more thinner actually will help your paint to dry faster and flash off faster adding Hardner will increase the durability and add just a slight glass to your paint
Thanks for the info. Next time will add more thinner.
GREGSGUNSONLINE Do not use hardener that contains MDI which is methyl di isocyanate with the location and equipment your using and your half mask it won’t protect you . Those hardeners are extremely toxic and go right through a half mask and in your skin and eyes . I was poisoned by isocyanate in canned spray expanding foam insulation purchased from a box store . I sprayed the consumer grade expanding foam which contains isocyanate or MDI to holes drilled small boat sub floor while wearing the exact same respirator you are using out side while standing up .The symptoms could be tight chest flushed face ,itchy eyes , asthma , difficulties in breathing which could be life threatening all of which could become permanent .Each exposure to isocyanate builds up in the body and stay with you for life till just sanding some old clear coat or urethane paint will cause you to react . Please check on you tube isocyanate safe usage there is tons of videos on here about it . Now if you are using the single part paint you are using and let it dry for couple of days minimum without hardener with acetone you will be fine . Stay safe just follow safety reguarding flash fires which is a danger also paint spray and a spark could = flash fire or explosion
Thanks for that. A lot of diy painters do not give enough tarts toon to the seriousness of safety. My dads friend is battling lung cancer he sprayed furniture for a living.
Because of the isocyanate I only spray paint like your using without any hardener and lacquer paint . I did a acrylic lacquer metal and diamond metal flake paint job to my modded c3vette in a garage like yours and hand rubbed out after many coats of clear acrylic lacquer wet sanding every 4 coats turned out like a show car but was lots of work , the reason the industry switched to 2 part isocyanate hardened paint was because it has less VOCs but is dangerous because of it affects on the painter lolo and because it can be recoated without wrinkling and it’s more durable and fades less from uv and is fast to use and apply.
I painted the front of my work truck with rust oleum. Right from the spray can. It has a very narrow pattern but didn’t create any tiger stripping. It was white so I’m not sure if that helped it not show. I think I’ll throw a can of 2 k clear over it. The whole truck only has 1k paint. Which really sucks and doesn’t have a clear coat. Just cleaning it removes paint.
Plastic is cheap and will make cleanup easier. Check out zip wall. You should cover the fans with filters to trap the paint and dust . When I sprayed inside my garage I stapled the plastic to the ceiling.
Gene Miller yea def not the best. If you sprayed the rustoleum with the gun you can at least add hardener and from what I hear it helps a lot! But best would be 2k clear.
Great video. Thats better than I could ever do. Hope you continue. You will be getting better as you go and I cant wait to see more videos!!!!!
Thanks. It was my first time. Anyone can do what I just did. But it’s very time consuming
Great job 👍
Be careful laying down alkyd to thick with multiple coats, as the coats dry they shrink. Causing a crackle effect .
Also look for silicone alkyd at your paint store. Can be mixed in custom colors and is easy to use like rusto. Very durable product
Tim Heasman what is alkyd?
Hey this video isn't inside your rustoleum Playlist. Thabks for making these videos!! Getting me ready to go ahead and do the same thing myself
ThBks for watching! Best of luck!
Look at you man. Looks professional, hell yeah that's what's up.. nice video.💪😎
Hell yah not bad for a first timer!!!! It was hard work but worth itt. Thanx!!
Each spraygun in each nozzle even on the same guns can spray slightly differently so the trick is getting the paint first of all to the right viscosity for that airgun the guidelines are just starting points for you you have to experiment a little bit to find what’s going to work for your gun your air pressures and your techniques it is a learning process And when you change something in the system you’re using even when you change brands of paint different kinds of paint everything changes which is what you’re learning now
Yea don’t really have a mentor just some UA-cam videos. Thanks for your knowledge and Input.
Thumbs up for not buying from Amazon...beautiful yard...and glass finish paint
thanks for watching! first time painting with a gun or rustoleum! only hope to get better
I'm proud of you for attempting this. Some helpful tips; I think you were holding the gun a little too far away from the bumper on the 1st coat. Also, pay attention to moving across the panel from end to end in smooth even strokes, with good over-lap on each new pass, and then also keep in mind you need to focus on maintaining a WET edge at all times. Bouncing around on the panel is a good way to have dry spots, and uneven coverage, striping, over-spray, etc; Plus look at all the walking around you were doing. I would go from end to end multiple times until you have complete coverage, then go back afterwards and spray into the cut outs that might have gotten missed. Removing nibs you can use a piece of masking tape folded back onto itself with the glue side OUT and just lightly touch it to the debris and try and pull it out that way. Also... you might want to just hold the trigger squeezed at all times as you go off the end of the panel, and then come back on.. When you release the trigger there will be MORE pressure build up in the hose and when you pull the trigger again it will be a burst of air pressure until the pressure gets down to what you have set on your regulator.. To avoid that initial burst of air on trigger pull-and the coarse/dry spots that result-just don't release the trigger as you go off the edge of the panel! It makes for a more even finish with no dry spots, and reduced orange peel, at the edges of the panel. Everything I know I learned from Paint Society here on UA-cam! Keep up the great work! I bet after wet sanding, its gonna POP! I gave you a thumbs up as well!
That’s for the comment and all the tips!! Appreciate you watching my videos. Yes paint society is awesome!
Hopefully I can do more pint projects in the future and improve my DIY technique. 👍🙌💪
Man everything you just said,!! all good tips.. and Brian is a very smart guy.
Very well done, excellent explanation. Good Job !
David Arnds glad you enjoyed. I took everything I learned and I put it in 3 painting videos. PRimer / paint/ wetsand buff
orange peel is a great effect
the fans are pulling dust across the bumper.
william nordeste it’s not gonna be perfect in a dusty garage.
That’s a some clean looking yellow rhino liner
Is that a compliment lol
👌🤣
APACHE529CREWCHIEF thicc boi paint
Nice, thank for the break down, taking your time and sharing all that info!!
Appreciate the comment brother ! Thanks for taking time to watch ! Be sure to subscribe to help my small channel grow!
I’m using 4 parts paint, 3 parts thinner and 1 part hardener. Paint gets dry to the touch in 24 hours & fully hard in 3-4 days while maintaining good gloss. I found a clear coat that I’m going to try on mine soon.
What thinner and hardener do you use? What clear coat? I see the speedokote 65$ clear may be a good budget clear coat.
@@BulliKid I use wet look high solids hardener off ebay. Acetone to thin it. The clear coat I want to go with is majic brand sold at tractor supply company. They recommend this clear be used over their implement paint which is an alkyd enamel just like rustoleum.
Timothy Husketh hmm interesting is says “laquer” I thought we didn’t use or recommend lacquer anymore.
@@BulliKid from the website: "Apply over properly cured Tractor, Truck & Implement Enamel"
www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/majic-clear-coat-high-gloss-laquer-clear-1-gal
Yea I saw that. Will look into it. But it’s not a real 2k I believe. I plan to buy speedokote clear which at least is a real 2k clear and will see the results. Will probably reclear some faded headlights with that too.
It is a bit of an experiment so you might also try increasing your pressure and spraying at higher pressures with those thicker paints that aren’t being thinned very much What you want to do is get the viscosity of the paint down low so when you’re mixing it and you pull your stick of the pot paint should flow off of your mixing stick quickly and turn into a drip within a couple of seconds buy three or four seconds it shouldn’t drip at all you know you have the right viscosity when that happens and that your paint gun will Adam is it
Yes I will experiment and see how different thinning affect the final outcome. Ideally would like to lay down paint smoother to possibly not have to wet sand and buff.
Well done. I liked the video, you did a great job of explaining everything and you did everything correctly. It was a good video. When playing with rustoleum if you lightly use a heat gun it smooths it out real nice. You did great
Thanks for the positive feedback! I appreciate it!
Heat gun lightly across after each coat - or final coat? Sound like something I'd like to try. Thanks for the interesting tip, sir!
I'm sure your neighbors love smell of paint
Looks good 😎
not bad for garage job ! buffing is always welcome !!!!!!!!!
I did buff it. I made a video. Results before and after are pretty dang nice.
You really only want to do one tack coat. It is just a thin coat that ensures the rest will adhere properly. After that, you want to open it up a little bit with thicker coats. If you don't, you get a "dry" finish, the spotty (looks like it needs tack clothed) finish. That leads to orange peel and fish eye. You'll be amazed at the difference. It should only require 3 coats, including the tack coat. Glad to see you're trying though, keep up the good work.
Thank you for the input I appreciate it!
I'd say you spray or know a person who does you're close too... good advice to the kid! Same advice idgive 👌
@@BulliKid that's the advice you want
Hint: When doing a front or rear bumper cover you need to add some Flex Additive to allow the paint to stay flexible or it will dry and harden over time and crack if he cover ever gets flexed.
Good job... a few good tips! Going to paint a trailer frame using this method, should turn out really nice. Harbor Freight gun great for backyard DIY. Thanks!
Sweet! Thanks for watching glad you can find some use from this video! Good luck on the spray job!
I've never used a psi gauge on a gun, ever! No old timer does! Most of us use a hand to crimp the hose as we go. Any experienced painter knows psi down to the inch. Been working for 5 dacades. Boy that paint is thick. Use a viscometer
Just a tip instead of like 5 coats u can do only 2 and get a glass like finish so u put on a tack coat first that's a light coat like u were . What till it gets tacky not dry dry but not wet .. u want to be abkento touch the paint aka over spray on something like masking tape or paper .. once its sticky but no paint transfers to ur fingure ur ready for second coat put that coat on heavy .. medium wet closer to the wet . That should give u full coverage and avoids that dry look . Dont be scared to run it ... cause of u are u will be doing lots of light coats
Yea I did many light coats. And decided to go heavy coat 4-5 because it was laying down bumpy.
You should find a automotive paint store and use there miss matched paint some store sale there mistakes but you will get even more experience by usuing the automotive paint but keep up the great work
Good advice! Thanks
30 min between coats, 50/50 rustoleum / mineral spirits. Dry to touch, wet sandable.
6+ coats. Recommend 15-20 coats. Wet sand every 3rd coat. No heavy coats, no orange peel.
Remember the difference between 1K paint and 2K paints 2K paints require a catalyst to harden the paint either fast slow medium or super fast 1K paints don’t require it like rust oleum so you can use thinner to thin that paint down the thinner will cause the paint to be thin plus flash and dry faster more coats may be required But the trade-off is the paint is a lot cheaper it will require more time to apply but it’s a lot cheaper
yes!!! Thank you! i sprayed 2k clear over the rustoleum after!
start at 1 part paint to one part thinner- you may need to add even more thinner than one to one-
I just didn’t want to have the paint running on. And some people were saying if you thin too much you won’t be able to apply a nice wet coat that builds up. Still came out good. There is orange peal but would a more diluted ratio give less orange peal? I did wet sand and polish to my ability and came out great! Appreciate any input! Thanks
I sprayed all my stuff four parts to one and it came out perfect
10×10 pop up canopy is with 7 mil plastic wrap around it us what I use to paint bumbers it's a nice little paint booth.
Kelly Mcculloch nice! Do you have ventilation fans?
@@BulliKid yeah you can cut and tape some hepa filters in the side with a fan but honestly you dont need to just spray it and get out less air flow less chance of contamination if there is overspray it will polish off easily.
The hardener would have made it a lot easier and it would dry in 5 to 10 minutes to the touch I painted my van with the safety red and I use a sponge roller 50%rustoleum 50%duplicolor reducer and a bout 2 tablespoon of trinity paint hardener I never wet sand or buffed it but I have plan to repaint it next month useling a harbor freight compressor and paind gun rustoleum safety red using the same technique
Very professional video keep up the good work
I appreciate the feedback!
Hey it's shiny and all the same color with no runs. Looks good to me!
QBRX 2157 thanks.
Well that turned out really well. Good to watch too. Nice pattern on the spray gun too. I think there maybe less debri using 2-pack as it probably dries faster.
Yes if it was 2 stage paint I would be able to tack cloth it after every coat. and the main concern would be clear coat. It was a great experience non the less. A lot of work I must say. Cant imagine how long a entire car with fixing dents and using filler would take.
I give you props for trying though
Thank you!! Appreciate it! Have to dive in and try
He should go back and install the yellow bumper on the wrecked car
Gordon Froslie hahaha 👌
Was that 50:50 with lacquer thinner?
Hell. Looks good to me, especially for a home garage paint job.
Dean Stephens it came out good for what it was. After I polished it, it was even better. I have a video on that.
I had to comment, when spraying guide coat you NEED it to be primer paint. Regular paint will clog your sandpaper immediately and wont let you sand correctly. The rest of the video is ok and informative for amateurs, keep learning and making videos tho, you're almost there
And sanding with a sponge is not a good idea or easy.
Ok watching the rest of the video I wouldnt learn too much from here. This guy knows all the lingo but is very inexperienced.
Correct. My first time doing something like this. Not a how to video, just documenting. But your tips are very good and accurate.
Your videos are more entertaining then mine, I'll learn from you and you can learn from me lol
Kar Kraftsman thanks bud, how do you like the widow? It was on sale for $150 in Black Friday. I ended up buying a welder for 150 but that gun looked very nice.
thanks for the video. I learned a few tips and will be helpful!
No problem thanks for the comment
looks real good it should look real good when u get done with the car
Thats some nice grass bro, no lie
thanks! the grass gets alot of comments haha!
Dont need guide cote nor does it need sanding just throw the rustollleum on no issues, clean it with alchohol first
if you gotta go cheap maybe a quart of duplicolor instead?
Or add some hardener to the rust-O? Cant have long tacky-times when you're painting at home. But no matter what, always end up with debris to sand out.
Good points. The long wait times destroy the finish with contamination. Heck even I am spraying 2k clear over headlights with a fast hardener and I get a bunch of dust specs and junk in the clear. And that is dry to the touch in like 20 mins.
Then in allows you to take thick paints and thin them to get the proper viscosity for spraying through the different sizes of nozzles on your spray guns Under different pressures and different at most Feerick conditions and different temperatures colder temperatures will make your paints thicker to spray higher temperatures will make your payments then her to spray a lot of guys who spray clearcoat over there basecoat will warm them are clear coats up to about 83 84 85° before even putting it into the gun and spraying it this helps thin your clearcoat down without even using any thinners that way you don’t lose any gloss. Because it’s OK to add a little bit of thinners to your clearcoat like 5% or 10% or 15% but keep in mind it will take away a little bit of gloss. Now keep in mind with automotive paint and gloss, the solid contents of your paints start out being a lot thinner but still need to be thinned some paints have more medium solids which are MS and some are HS high Solids or VHS very high solids the solids are what make your paint thicker and give you more build up on the surface. So I think paint like rust oleum which will have very high solids and is designed to be brushed on or rolled on so a lot of thinner must be used to get the paint down to the right viscosity so you can spray with it .Hey viscosity cup is useful for these reasons they can be found on several paint websites or Amazon
very good job
Bikramjit Bal hey thanks for the positive comment! Appreciate it! I got a little bit better since and I am experimenting more.
That maybe why your filters are cracking. Those filters are rated at 90 psi. If you’re pushing 120 psi thats not good for thos filters. I use 175 psi max filters/separators. You can find those at HF as well.
Hmmm maybeee
Dude. Awesome video ! I love how you talk through the whole process. Made me feel like I was at you house and you were teaching me.
CS Fabrication, LLC hey I appreciate the comment. I wish I saw my own style video when I was learning the steps myself. Glad it can help you! God bless
The orange filters work good for me, do not over tighten them, and use thread tape on both sides, so you only snug them with your hands loosely!
AICS USA that’s exactly what I did and it worked good for me also. Hopefully I can get more uses out of them.
@@BulliKid I use them for a couple paint jobs then replace them to be sure to keep moisture out of the paint. My luck I would have the gun spray water on a large panel or hood at the very end! LOL! For the price, it is an easy decision to keep changing them just to be safe!
No need for thread tape on the plastic filters. It adds too much thickness and aids in cracking. The filter already being plastic is enough and can still be tightened hang tight.
@@mikeshepard3602 Mine does not leak, have it your way for you I am going to be safe!
Is there a site to where you can get that chart that tells you how much paint to use and mixtures ?
Most Certainly. I would just google key words and should populate.
www.automotivetouchup.com/how-much-paint/
If you slowed dowed on your sweeps when spraying length ways your painting will be covered more and you will have less coats to apply
You are right my first coat was bad. I was painting like I would with spray paint. 3-5 coats were steady wrist and heavier coats. But yes it’s a learning curve. Thanks for the input I appreciate your keen observation!
Over all you seam like you know how Handel the gun we'll just gotta slow down and give you self 50%overlap on each spray that best coverage
Lee Collins gratitude!! Appreciate the feedback!
This gun just went on sale for $10 I already have a couple of gallons of rustoleum paint for touching up my trailer and my utility bed. so I'm gonna give it a test on some aluminum table legs i welded up.
Goodluck!!!!
@BULLI KID came out good dude 👌
I like the dog.. my favorite part about the video.
Hahha. 🐶 she is a character :)
Awesome job dude
Thanks man. It was a lot of work!
Did you wet sand it and buff it? What did it end up looking like? Thanks for posting.
Yes I did. I have a video. I also clear coated a portion of the rustoleum with 2k clear coat to test. Check out my playlist 😀
I am spraying a Bronco with Rustoleom farm paint. So we will see. I figured for the price it was worth a try.
Anthony Maldonado let me know how it turns it?!
@@BulliKid shooting it tomorrow in my mom's garage. I am so dead
Haha at least put some blankets on the important things. I had a lot of over sprayyyyy
@@BulliKid turned out okay fell off bumper hit side with hose. Tip paintt roof first hahahaha. Used 8 oz paint 4 oz reducer 1 oz hardner pretty cold in Detroit got heaters going
@@BulliKid just posted a video of my Bronco. Not my best job but I have done worse lol.
Thumbs up for the Puppy.
Why do you have to use paint and not primer as a guidecoat?I have a few 1\2 cans of black primer.
Rob Mendoza it wouldn’t matter. Primer or paint , either way it will be sanded flat and even. I actually seen people use a dedicated powder guide coat and that looks like it’s the best.
Thank so much to share your experience .Great video .I like so much.
Thanks you. Subscribe to support. Watch more videos on the playlist. Thanks.
Love your stuff. Keep up the good work!
Ron Washburn thanks much!!!
Can I or should I spray a clear coat over the rustoleum enamel paint on my motorcycle?
Yes
Yes
I appreciate the effort that went into this tutorial great work going on here love the channel 👌🏻
Thanks a bunch. Appreciate it. I’m a small channel and this video made me get my 1,000 subscribers so I’m so happy!
@@BulliKid congratulations on 1000 subs bro keep growing 👌🏻
Thank you. It took some time to get there. Hard when you don’t have flashy things like some youtubers haha
@@BulliKid true but everyone starts somewhere right 🙏🏻
Is this only when you're doing plastic or can you do this with regular body panels like on a pickup??
You can do this to any body panel. I just had a bumper to show
Rustoleum will fade so you should use a clear coat
It may be smooth but you are going to have waves.a sanding block is used to LEVEL the surface. You didn't level you just smoothed.
True but on panels with this a block is no use? To many curves and edges
@@BulliKid that didn't even make sense what he said
7 drips in a line on the stir stick, and that’s the right viscosity.
Is that how it works?
BULLI KID you will catch on quick , I can tell you have been doing your homework. Great first try buddy
Thank you. Yes I did a lot of homework and was still stressed about doing this whole experiment. But hey just gota do it and make my mistakes and keep living life! Thanks for feedback!
If you add a hardener with your paint, you'll get a much shinier and harder paint job that will last a lot longer. I noticed the fans plowing out the door....now you have a yellow driveway?!!
David Regnier I didn’t notice A yellow driveway but yellow garage floor forsure hahah.
In between coats... while waiting.. do u just hang up gun then reuse? Doesnt it dry on gun... just bought gun thanks
Just hang and wait.
Which Rustoleum type paint is this? I tried this and mixed with acetone and the paint congealed. Got the Rustoleum from Home Depot. Do they sell different Rustoleum elsewhere? I know stupid question. Mine may have been water based. Is there a different (i.e. Oil based Rustoleum) as I did not see any at the Homer
thatwasinteresting2 its an oil based paint. The paint is in the video when I start mixing it. You can see how it looks like. Water based pint mixes with water to dilute not solvent like acetone.
you will get less orange peel when spraying if you get that gun closer, open up the spray pattern, and slow down alittle bit
Thanks for the tip. This was my first time spraying paint with a hvlp. There was a ton of orange peel. But once we set sand it and buff we cut it down quite well. But a off the gun finish with no buffing would have saved me 10 hours minimum !
@@BulliKid ya you will get the hang of it as you get more practice il tell you that the cheaper guns alot of times just have alot of orange peel because they are alot harder to spray with and get a good finish
Yea this one has a small fan pattern it seems like and needs more psi to lay the paint down. I’ll experiment more in the next few coming months with warmer weather.
I've sprayed some rustoleum a couple times and I use mineral spirits to reduce it. In fact I think the last time I sprayed it was with the HF gun. I think you need to get a little thinner mixture and adjust the gun a little different. Getting quite a bit of orange peel there my friend. It takes some practice but it will lay out pretty smooth.
Agreed. I will thin out more and compare.
@@BulliKid How much air pressure are you using? I know it's an HVLP gun but you will probably have to run 40 lbs into it? If your paint is too thick or air pressure too low you're going to get the orange peel. I normally spray with a binks hvlp with the gun set at about 2 turns out on the fluid and around 40 psi coming in. That's painting with high dollar PPG paint though. Everyone does a little different. Speed of the paint stroke matters too. Push it until you get slick paint and a run then adjust back a little
funk i was using 27-30 psi. The gauge wasn’t very accurate and asked the eBay seller to send me a replacement. (2 months ago). And now a refund because never arrived. I think the gun has a max psi rating itself but not sure if 30 or 40. I saw most people spray base with 27-28 and clear 29-30 psi. But yah rustoleum is different ball park that I didn’t consider.
Thinner paint and more pressure should help in the future.
@@BulliKid Yeah the secret is to get the paint to break up and atomize better. Finer mist.
Just curious. Where are you from?
Hi.
Please write your compressor specs.
How many hp.
Tank size
How many litres it gives out
Thanks
I have a video about compressors and my compressor. It’s a small one. Check it out :)
Did he just clean his gun by running cleaner fluid through it?? Serious question new to all this and looked way easier than taking it all apart
You should take it all apart at first. And clean after every paint job. I just spray some cleaner before I add paint just in case. Cleaning gun is very important.