Our 04 Patrol is doing the same and loosing coolant even though the temp gauge never moved off normal . I removed the radiator cap to find bubbles in the coolant and it started overflowing the coolant with cold engine running meaning either head or gasket failure making the Patrol undriveable as it burst the plastic top radiator tank after a short drive on the open road ... Replacement head costs around 2K plus gaskets and other bits needed if I do the work myself but funds are very scarce . Exchange long engine costs around 6K plus if I fit it myself . I see many Patrols with the same problem for sale on the net.
Not good mate. I wish I could tell you there is an easy fix, but unfortunately there isn't. I spent $4000 on head replacement, that's with my mechanic doing the work.
Well there is one postive of this episode with the troubles you have with your Patrol is that it will have a shit load of views. Make a series of your Patrol's diagnosis and repairs as they happen. Mention "approximate" costs and time scales of parts ordering and why you or your mechanic chose that particular part. There is a shed load of these "Grenade" engines in Oz and owners are Hungary for info. Best of luck with it mate. Cheers Bing.
Halo.... Teman. Saya memiliki masalah. Di nisan patrol zd 30 Y61 DDTI transmisi RE4RO3A. Saya awalnya memiliki maslah seal as. Puspom yang di gear bocor. Dan saya melakkukan penggantian. Seal set. Dari bosc. VP 44 dan. Saya memiliki masalah pemasangan konsleting di modul VP 44.. dan saya membeli module baru dengan kode yang sama. Tetapi ... Tetap tidak bisa membuat keluar dari nosel.
Damn !!!!! My truck has been doing this for at least a month...it runs sweet as, and I keep refilling that top tank...I havnt seen any leakage from the top tank , but O wondered where the coolant was going....the bottom tank is always full like yours....does your truck run good or poorly...cheers for the video..
WOW ! When I took my Patrol in for a blown head gasket, the mechanic claimed it wasn't the head gasket. I told him it wasn't my first blown head gasket, it was obvious to me what was wrong. After screwing around with everything, I told him to stop stuffing around and take the head off. Get phone call, heads off, I need to see it. Head turns out to be cracked in three places and the gasket was also shot to hell. Dunno whether that caused the cracks due to over heating. Whatever you do, if your head is shot, DO NOT BUY AN AFTER MARKET HEAD. ONLY REPLACE IT WITH AN ORIGINAL NISSAN HEAD. Doing anything else, you'll rue the day you made that decision. I've been there, done that. Very expensive lesson.
Make sure rad cap has no spring! Spring only on surge tank. Do a coolant change too and use pure premixed coolant,raises boiling point. Check out 4x4 forum I have a thread on there called ( double expansion tank) this modd can save you loosing any coolant and it also means your radiator stays full because of the extra 2.5 liters added to system. If I was you I would buy a new radiator and waterpump first. You'd be surprised...
Thanks mate. First thing I did was replace caps. Turned out to be a crack in the head between exhaust and coolant gallery. An expensive exercise to fix. Currently on a 2000km trip in outback NSW. All good so far. 👍🏼
@@4x4EastCoast Sorry to hear! Big job doing the head and costly but I suppose you have a new Patrol again though so probably worth it. Who fitted the head?
I had ultratune at Toronto in NSW do the work. The owner is a friend of mine and helped me out a lot. They did send the head away to a specialist though.
Doesn't sound good mate. I know a fair bit about these motors and could almost guarantee that it's got a cracked head from the glow plugs ports. It actually seems to be the main problem with the zd30di. The ceramic glow plugs stay on for far too long on start up (up to 5 minutes) causing the metal near the plugs to crack. This pushes exhaust gasses up into the cooling system pressurising it giving you the symptoms you have now. This also causes the plugs to crack bits of ceramic and lodges them ontop of the pistons causing weak spots for holes in piston in future. Also been told by ECPT (know these engines inside out, also the only shop that knows how to tune the ZD30DI) that TK tests will return false negatives and that generally the ones theyve pulled apart with a cracked head have cracked pistons too. Interesting though as they have had previous zd30dis in with cracked heads and pistons that continued to run like that for 10s of thousands km like that. When you get the car all back, make sure you put new steel tip plugs in and MAKE SURE to put either manual or timer glow control on it . The zd has a rep for being a grenade (hole in piston) But it seems the glow plug problems are the actually main failure of these motors. Too many people just put the dawes needle and egr. I would argue glow control is more important than all that. Edit: Any updates? Saw on your socials you've gotten it back. Reckon you could do a run down of the repairs and cost breakdown from the mechanic?
Interesting. Turns out the head was cracked between the exhaust and the water jacket. I'll be seeing my mechanic this week. I will definitely be discussing this with him.
@@4x4EastCoast Mind me asking how much it cost you for parts alone then labour? Yep defs get another opinion on the glow control matter. But for me its peace of mind and cost me a $5 momentary switch and thats it. Are you apart of the zd30 page on facebook? Wealth of knowledge on there and where i learnt most of the info about the zds cracking heads. Hopefully you went with a new head and not reconditioned as most blokes on the page found themselves replacing the head a couple months later if they purchased a reco one instead of a new AMC head.
The total was about $4200 including labour. I can't remember the exact breakdown. I went with a new head. Pretty sure it was around the $2500 mark. I'd have to find the receipt.
LOL, Really ? Mine was a RD 2.8 6 cylinder, blown head gaskets and cracked heads happen all the time to any car. Even my old clunker H.D. Holden suffered the same malady and that head was cast iron.
Hey mate I know this is old but I'm running in circles trying to diagnose a issue. When you say the return line gets pressurised how hard is it to squeeze? Mine becomes harder than when not running but I can still squeeze it.
The top hose went pretty hard from memory. The coolant was getting pushed out of the top tank into the overflow and than not returning when cooled. Hope that helps. Happy to answer any other questions.
@@4x4EastCoast I'm getting a hell of alot of bubbling in my surge tank to a point of it over flowing into the res tank. However my hose isnt firm even my Mrs can squeeze it. Just trying to eliminate the possibility of it being a head.
NO !Definately a cracked head, possibly as a direct result of over heating because the gasket was blown. It really amazes me, that in this day and age there are mechanics who do not know what a blown head gasket or cracked head signs are on engines. Even had a case of dropped valve guides, mechanic had no idea of what was wrong. Had self trained bush mechanic look at it, he walked to the rear asked me to start the engine, then placed his hand over the exhaust pipe, came back and said to me, "you have a dropped valve guide which is preventing the closing of that valve, head needs removing and valve guides replaced." My mechanic refused to accept this was the issue, came up with all sorts of bullshit causes, tried to blame the valve clearance inserts, but couldn't explain how they could be causing it, as they are a fixed thickness and clearances can't be changed unless you replace the insert. Eventually got sick of his crap, told him to remove the head, and guess what, TWO valve guides HAD dropped and DID prevent the valves from closing. Take it from me, a good mechanic these days, is incredibly hard to find.
Our 04 Patrol is doing the same and loosing coolant even though the temp gauge never moved off normal . I removed the radiator cap to find bubbles in the coolant and it started overflowing the coolant with cold engine running meaning either head or gasket failure making the Patrol undriveable as it burst the plastic top radiator tank after a short drive on the open road ... Replacement head costs around 2K plus gaskets and other bits needed if I do the work myself but funds are very scarce . Exchange long engine costs around 6K plus if I fit it myself . I see many Patrols with the same problem for sale on the net.
Not good mate. I wish I could tell you there is an easy fix, but unfortunately there isn't. I spent $4000 on head replacement, that's with my mechanic doing the work.
Hope you get it sorted mate. Praying it’s not a cracked head 🙏 good luck 👍🍻
Thanks Dino.
Well there is one postive of this episode with the troubles you have with your Patrol is that it will have a shit load of views.
Make a series of your Patrol's diagnosis and repairs as they happen. Mention "approximate" costs and time scales of parts ordering and why you or your mechanic chose that particular part.
There is a shed load of these "Grenade" engines in Oz and owners are Hungary for info.
Best of luck with it mate. Cheers Bing.
Will do mate.
Halo.... Teman. Saya memiliki masalah. Di nisan patrol zd 30 Y61 DDTI transmisi RE4RO3A. Saya awalnya memiliki maslah seal as. Puspom yang di gear bocor. Dan saya melakkukan penggantian. Seal set. Dari bosc. VP 44 dan. Saya memiliki masalah pemasangan konsleting di modul VP 44.. dan saya membeli module baru dengan kode yang sama. Tetapi ... Tetap tidak bisa membuat keluar dari nosel.
Bisakah anda memmbatu menyelesaikan saat.. saya scan mengunakan G scan 3. Saya mendapat DTC P 0075 n dan DTC P 0073.
Damn !!!!! My truck has been doing this for at least a month...it runs sweet as, and I keep refilling that top tank...I havnt seen any leakage from the top tank , but O wondered where the coolant was going....the bottom tank is always full like yours....does your truck run good or poorly...cheers for the video..
It still ran normal mate. Sounds like your top tanks is preasurising and filling the overflow. I'd get it checked out.
@@4x4EastCoast cheers Bro...thanks for the heads up
WOW ! When I took my Patrol in for a blown head gasket, the mechanic claimed it wasn't the head gasket. I told him it wasn't my first blown head gasket, it was obvious to me what was wrong. After screwing around with everything, I told him to stop stuffing around and take the head off. Get phone call, heads off, I need to see it. Head turns out to be cracked in three places and the gasket was also shot to hell. Dunno whether that caused the cracks due to over heating.
Whatever you do, if your head is shot, DO NOT BUY AN AFTER MARKET HEAD. ONLY REPLACE IT WITH AN ORIGINAL NISSAN HEAD. Doing anything else, you'll rue the day you made that decision. I've been there, done that. Very expensive lesson.
Make sure rad cap has no spring! Spring only on surge tank. Do a coolant change too and use pure premixed coolant,raises boiling point. Check out 4x4 forum I have a thread on there called ( double expansion tank) this modd can save you loosing any coolant and it also means your radiator stays full because of the extra 2.5 liters added to system. If I was you I would buy a new radiator and waterpump first. You'd be surprised...
Thanks mate. First thing I did was replace caps. Turned out to be a crack in the head between exhaust and coolant gallery. An expensive exercise to fix. Currently on a 2000km trip in outback NSW. All good so far. 👍🏼
@@4x4EastCoast Sorry to hear! Big job doing the head and costly but I suppose you have a new Patrol again though so probably worth it. Who fitted the head?
I had ultratune at Toronto in NSW do the work. The owner is a friend of mine and helped me out a lot. They did send the head away to a specialist though.
Doesn't sound good mate. I know a fair bit about these motors and could almost guarantee that it's got a cracked head from the glow plugs ports. It actually seems to be the main problem with the zd30di. The ceramic glow plugs stay on for far too long on start up (up to 5 minutes) causing the metal near the plugs to crack. This pushes exhaust gasses up into the cooling system pressurising it giving you the symptoms you have now. This also causes the plugs to crack bits of ceramic and lodges them ontop of the pistons causing weak spots for holes in piston in future.
Also been told by ECPT (know these engines inside out, also the only shop that knows how to tune the ZD30DI) that TK tests will return false negatives and that generally the ones theyve pulled apart with a cracked head have cracked pistons too. Interesting though as they have had previous zd30dis in with cracked heads and pistons that continued to run like that for 10s of thousands km like that.
When you get the car all back, make sure you put new steel tip plugs in and MAKE SURE to put either manual or timer glow control on it . The zd has a rep for being a grenade (hole in piston) But it seems the glow plug problems are the actually main failure of these motors. Too many people just put the dawes needle and egr. I would argue glow control is more important than all that.
Edit: Any updates? Saw on your socials you've gotten it back. Reckon you could do a run down of the repairs and cost breakdown from the mechanic?
Interesting. Turns out the head was cracked between the exhaust and the water jacket. I'll be seeing my mechanic this week. I will definitely be discussing this with him.
@@4x4EastCoast Mind me asking how much it cost you for parts alone then labour? Yep defs get another opinion on the glow control matter. But for me its peace of mind and cost me a $5 momentary switch and thats it. Are you apart of the zd30 page on facebook? Wealth of knowledge on there and where i learnt most of the info about the zds cracking heads. Hopefully you went with a new head and not reconditioned as most blokes on the page found themselves replacing the head a couple months later if they purchased a reco one instead of a new AMC head.
The total was about $4200 including labour. I can't remember the exact breakdown. I went with a new head. Pretty sure it was around the $2500 mark. I'd have to find the receipt.
LOL, Really ? Mine was a RD 2.8 6 cylinder, blown head gaskets and cracked heads happen all the time to any car. Even my old clunker H.D. Holden suffered the same malady and that head was cast iron.
@@4x4EastCoast DId the patrol drive fine otherwise? As in did you do the repair out of peace of mind or was it undriveable?
Hey mate I know this is old but I'm running in circles trying to diagnose a issue. When you say the return line gets pressurised how hard is it to squeeze? Mine becomes harder than when not running but I can still squeeze it.
The top hose went pretty hard from memory. The coolant was getting pushed out of the top tank into the overflow and than not returning when cooled. Hope that helps. Happy to answer any other questions.
@@4x4EastCoast I'm getting a hell of alot of bubbling in my surge tank to a point of it over flowing into the res tank. However my hose isnt firm even my Mrs can squeeze it. Just trying to eliminate the possibility of it being a head.
I think if the top tank is bubbling it isn't a good sign. Get a exhaust gas test done. Although it came back negative for me on initial tests.
So what was the end result? I've got the same problem.
The end result was a cracked head.
cheers
Could it be the spark plugs.
Maybe it's the flux capacitor.
NO !Definately a cracked head, possibly as a direct result of over heating because the gasket was blown. It really amazes me, that in this day and age there are mechanics who do not know what a blown head gasket or cracked head signs are on engines. Even had a case of dropped valve guides, mechanic had no idea of what was wrong. Had self trained bush mechanic look at it, he walked to the rear asked me to start the engine, then placed his hand over the exhaust pipe, came back and said to me, "you have a dropped valve guide which is preventing the closing of that valve, head needs removing and valve guides replaced." My mechanic refused to accept this was the issue, came up with all sorts of bullshit causes, tried to blame the valve clearance inserts, but couldn't explain how they could be causing it, as they are a fixed thickness and clearances can't be changed unless you replace the insert. Eventually got sick of his crap, told him to remove the head, and guess what, TWO valve guides HAD dropped and DID prevent the valves from closing.
Take it from me, a good mechanic these days, is incredibly hard to find.
What ended up being the problem? Cheers mate
It was a cracked head mate. Had a crack between exhaust port and coolant passage.
How much did cost to repair mate
It was around the 4k mark mate.
Hopefully its just the gasket mate. Cheers Steve
Thanks Steve. She'll be back on the road in no time🤞
how much did it end up costing?
All up it cost just under $4000.
Hi mate was it the head gasket if you can remember
Nah mate it was a cracked head.
A leak down test would have helped
They did a exhaust gas test (not sure if that is the same thing) and didn't find any exhaust gas in the coolant system.