New video every Friday. COMPLETE CARGO TRAILER BUILD ua-cam.com/play/PLcWRMoi_je50fGQ7DaPwHCCRmwlznS07F.html COMPLETE ELECTRIC SYSTEM HOW TO’s ua-cam.com/play/PLcWRMoi_je503p6QVvpOM0MB563hQgUKb.html COMPLETE GMC SIERRA BUILD ua-cam.com/play/PLcWRMoi_je53ccbFfXe5dBUmWXxdjHnbo.html SUMMER 2019 ROAD TRIP ua-cam.com/play/PLcWRMoi_je52b9KED8NvylkOMzoeoiROe.html
Yes no doubt it’s all about you needs! I just like to comment for people scrolling through looking for different opinions, just had my first blow out the other day and the other axle doesn’t help as much as you would think so I can only imagine with just one axle going down some steep grades. Im living in mine months at a time and have gone across country so my needs are different than most.
@@cargonomads4947 All good. Always thanks for your input. Different views are reflective of different experience. I hope all is well with your CTC after blowout.
I have had blow outs on single axle trailers. It is no big deal. It just feels like something is dragging. Had a blow out on a double axle trailer as well. In this case I could "limp" along a bit to find a preferred place to change the tire.
I so appreciate your style. No fluff, no annoying background music and no wasting your viewers time with useless information. In fact, this video is so good, I saved it, shared it and watched it twice. Thank you. This is chuck full of useful information. Well done you! I just found you and subscribed. 😊 Greetings from Texas!
Might also want to consider getting your trailer Low Jacked. A fairly inexpensive way to do that is get one of those devices that are intended for bicycles. The device is small, easily hidden/disguised, etc. And the device can be linked up to your cellphone through an app, so if your trailers gets stolen, the police can link their system to your app & go hunt down the thieves.
I got everything you want EXCEPT I got the 6' wide and tandem axles and Barn Doors. I got a factory roof rack, two windows, lift kit and torsion axles. It was 10,000 and it took them 6 months to build it due to material delivery delays. I love the barn doors because I don't have the room for a ramp. Most people on UA-cam that have the ramp wish they did not unless they haul toys that need it. I sold an 8' wide Airstream to get this 6' wide cargo trailer. It fits in my driveway so much better and I can walk around it. Even my Airstream had the bed "fore & aft" rather than "port to starboard". Still, the ramp with a false wall like you showed in a picture is a pretty cool idea. . Thanks for sharing. PS. I finally found (on Quora) that you should NOT ground the 120 AC to the chassis if the chassis is also used for 12V DC common (according to NEC since about 1980's). If you are using a metal tool with a short and then you touch a metal object you could get electrocuted. Pretty slim odds but I guess it's happened.
Nice build. Great insight for future builders. Small note. The bikes on the rear bike rack wont hit the trailer if 3-4 bungees are used holding the tire in a specific position. (I hook from from tire to pedal crank to hold position)
Having built 2 home built campers I will tell you that windows on a trailer or camper must be DOT approved and in many states if they are not the trailer will not pass inspection preventing you from registering it and also large fines if you get stopped and checked by an officer who knows this law. This is why most people who build them either get them in the trailer from the factory or go to RV scrap yards. One other option for DOT windows cheap is truck caps.
Thanks for your comment That would be something to check out. Mine are tempered glass. However, I don't see why they should have to be DOT approved windows if no one is in the trailer during transit, ever. As I said, might be something to investigate.
Thanks for the post I been working on my trailer I didn’t want any holes in my camper so I got a 110 plug in large HISENSE heating and air conditioner that I could plug in to heat and cook a large room that fit under the cabinets. It was about 600.00 but if it ever goes bad I can just unplug it and replace it no worries no holes in the camper. Thank you for the post I had a friend help instal a fold down bed and full shower the shower has a tankless hot water heater so as long as I have water I do have endless hot water and full shower. I just wanted something for myself as I travel for work tired of living out of dirty over priced hotel rooms that when work calls and I have to go to the next place I have a tv shower bed and toilet. Thanks again for the post
You make a lot of good points and gave people good things to watch for. I'd also add that you want a tall trailer where the ceiling height is closer to 7' not barely 6'. The roof needs extra insulation and adding thickness to get that reduces head room and they you are cramped in height. Added height also gives you extra room of storage and a more open feel. I'm also amazed that so many build with 2 x 4's??? this isn't a house and you aren't supporting a second floor or roof. It also takes up more space & adds weight. Clear 1 x 3 has all the structural strength you need. My fold up bed is 1 x 3 with 3/8" ply, plenty strong, doesn't deflect and weighs way less. Same with shelves and cabinets, why sacrifice space & add weight by framing with 2 x 4's? I've also used aluminum tube & channel to build with, putting pink foam insulation as a core and gluing luan ply for skins on cabinet doors and walls. very light, very strong. Yes extra work but weight savings is worth the extra capacity and fuel economy. Think about your kitchen, do you really want to cook in a 6' x 12' space??? (just a size example) Heat, odors and moisture. I have an awning and my stove can hang on the outside of the trailer plus a table on rails bought from camping store. Stole this Idea from an old popup camper I had. And no one ever does a follow up video on their peel & stick tile or floor covering. I laugh cause the adhesive on this stuff isn't rated for the temperatures your trailer will reach when stored or in towing in hot summers Ever tried using Velcro in you car??? The adhesive gets soft and gooey in heat... then falls off.
There's more pros to the tandem axle than just weight capacity. They are much more stable when pulling too. I would take a tandem over a single axle any day, personally.
Add wood studs next to the Z channel this will allow for mounting and not add as much weight. Get the trailer with 16inch floor beams and modify the area you need for the tanks. The roof AC unit is the better choice, I have own several trailers and never had a AC unit fail, no need to build a falls wall that would take away room in the trailer. Not sure why a trailer would get humid from a shower for taking shower in a trail is not the same as at home and do those showers not have exhaust fans? Don't buy a V-noise trailer. Buy a flat noise for mount stuff up front and buy are make a v-noise cover, this help protect the stuff and better air flow.
The nice thing about a tandem axle is if you blow a tire with a tandem axle you can safely pull over with the trailer not whipping around behind you. Should you have flat and no spare or a flat spare you can limp to a shop an get repaired. I ve had a single axle and thats exactly what happened. After that my mind was made up.
I have had a tandem tire failure on a loaded car trailer. Recovery from that catastrophic failure poses its own unique set of problems. Tire debris flying and damaging the other tire is one problem, what damaged one tire may have also damaged the other tire is another. Also, when the blown tire fails the wheel does not stay suspended in the air, it too falls to the road surface. Yes you can limp the trailer out on one wheel, but you have to jack up and tie up the lame wheel so it does not drag the ground. Also, tandems are more difficult to maneuver in tight off road applications. I travel with good tires and carry a good spare. Each style has its good points and draw backs. Thanks for watching.
Never ever realized they don't use box tubing. Thank you for this review and your comment on the Aluminum skin. You can by it in rolls, but I was curious about the thickness. Great build - inspiring Sir!
The information was excellent. I'm about 50% done with cargo conversion. I'm at the campground for the summer and will definitely use some of your tips. Thanks!
There are many ways to mount a window unit. You could design it into a cabinet space and have it sit inside a metal box with a good air gap so it can flow the air like it needs to but only have maybe an inch of it out the side of the trailer. You would have to factor in a drip pan setup to let the drip escape but overall not terribly difficult and it would hardly be noticeable.
Oh, you cheep son of a gun you. You are doing the exact same stuff I do. I don't know why it takes so long for people to figure out to use the less expensive mass manufactured products are cost effective. One service call for a RV air conditioner or refrigerator cost more than a new big box store unit that can be used at home or in the RV.
I agree with everything you said, except the trailer width, I want something a little less wind resistant and compact, easier to see around when towing.
Mine is 6x12 v nose with 16 on center box tubing. I need 16 on center floor because I haul motorcycles which put weight in two spots instead of evenly distributed. I would like 7 foot wide, but only if the wheels were in the same location as my 6 foot wide. I haul a lot of narrow roads and a 8 1/2 foot wide wheel to wheel on a 7 foot trailer is not fun. Plus, might as well get an 8 foot since the wheels are just as wide.
Very informative. I'm ready to purchase a trailer since I sold my Jayco "LEAKMASTER" '95. LOL. IT was a good unit but we rough camp deer hunting and the Jayco was too low with too much plumbing junk hanging underneath to get in and out w/o breaking things. Also we need to haul 2 atv's so your advice is timely. Thanks for your wisdom.
@@FakeLegGreg Thank you. I'm positive it will be an improvement over the the poorly insulated, cramped Conditions of my 3 previous campers in 30 years. They were good enough but when you need to haul a couple Atv's as well as camp the whole program needs to change. Thanks again.
It's as though I wrote this Summary, glad to hear confirmation. The dual axials and 16 in wall beams may be the only thing I may disagree. I have found that some insulation in the floor is needed too many people complain about the floor temperatures. The roof and Portable AC are definitley not good. My choice would be window unit or one of those mini splits, but window units easy and cheap to replace. a mini splits serve more funtions, as a heater, ac, fan, dehumidifer. The water and electrical setups in some cargo conversions are crazy they have no access to either if somethign fails I would suggest building all electrical on a removable wood panel and place in rear of trailer behind fake wall. Too many people stuffing electrical in closed up areas hard to get to. I just recently realized the fake wall is the way to go with window AC. I think placing water and propane in a trailer causes a lot more grief then they are worth. If you need either do the minimum. Like no shower or toliet but a sink, no propane hot water heater but a little buddy just in case. Keep the plumbing and gas down to a minimum. Plus cuts back on weight. In fact I would suggest making as many things modular so they can be moved with ease. I was thinking electric in tracks on top of walls, but it may be better to have them run on the bottom of the walls. An odd think I thought of was make a bumper in the rear of the trailer so the trailer can withstand a slow moving hit in the rear. Most trailers will suffer a lot of damage if hit in the rear.
Im so glad you took the time to make such an informative video on cargo trailers , I'll be following you and subscribe to get more of your knowledge on these trailers or related subjects.
You can get a 5,000 lb single axle. I think by law in most States they come with electric brakes. Trailer manufactures build with 3,500 lb axles. they are cheaper. On windows, safety or tempered glass should be used for windows on anything that moves. When tempered glass brakes it shatters into little cube shapes. Regular glass can scatter larger pieces of sharp glass onto the road.
The fridge is a 110 volt 4.3 cu ft Gallanz dorm fridge with a small freezer. We can run it off the batteries with the inverter or shore power. It could also be run off a generator. You could buy a generator and fridge for less than the high price RV fridge. Here is a aff link amzn.to/38Q3JJm
@@FakeLegGreg I have a 4000 watt generator. What I was wondering about is if you had a battery on the front of Your trailer and was charging Your car battery and this second battery will the alternator be overloaded at times of high use. like running the truck A/C and maybe headlights and charging this 2nd battery two?
@@missouritraveler6401 I am not sure about that. This is a compressor refrigerator and compressors use more amps to get started, so there is a surge. I don't have the two electrical systems crossed because I didn't want a malfunction in the trailer to affect my tow vehicle and possibly get stranded. We did have the fridge on 2 6 volt 200 amp golf car batteries with a 1500 watt inverter. The batteries were recharged by 200 watts of solar panels so recharging as we were driving. We had that setup in the bed camper of our truck. The only time we had a problem was tropical storm on the east coast kept it cloudy for a week. If you keep the fridge full and shut most of the time, it will require less power to keep it cool.
@@missouritraveler6401 YW MT. You are welcome to look on my about section and email me privately. We can dig into this further. I am always willing to learn more.
So informative dear friend, thanks for sharing with us, you are so skillful, new friend here enjoying your video Though I haven't got a trailer or car yet but I have loved this video, because I enjoy cars. stay blessed dear
GREAT VIDEO THANKS. which axle do you prefer with a 6 x 12 cargotrailer single axle. 3500lbs or a 5,000 lbs axle. Would appreciate any thoughts you might have and thanks you on this video. 👍
Good question. My build added up to around 3350 lbs with 5 gallons of water. I could carry about 15 more gallons. I was getting close to maxing out my 3500 lbs and with us in the trailer we were certainly over 3500 lbs. A 5000 lbs axle would probably be a good investment. Good luck.
I know there are pros and cons for double-axle versus single. I am about to buy another new dual axle 7'X16' cargo trailer. I cannot get single axle with smaller than 7'X14'.
Most of the time it’s worth it to have one made to your specific needs, if you aren’t afraid to drive to Georgia that’s where they are all made, the farther from Georgia you go the more expensive the trailers get. And if you get one made it’s only a few hundred dollars extra to upgrade from a dual 3,500lb axle to a single 5,200 lb axle with better brakes. That’s what I did and towing is effortless.
Grizzly trailers in Georgia just manufactured a brand new 7x14 single axle (5,200lb axle with brakes) 7’ tall trailer for under $3,000 out the door and they did quite a bit of custom stuff for me. Great people highly recommend.
A lot of good information, thank you.I was semi-considering doing a build on a Carry-On 6 x1 2 V nose trailer and I was wondering if it was sturdy enough to put time and effort into doing so. Mine looks very similar to your model so I assume I have Z channel walls also. I also had no idea this was used. Looks like yours held up ok though. Any particular concerns with this model other than what you described?
Yep, mine is good enough. When they originally build the trailer they are not concerned with making sure that all the little gaps are sealed where the aluminum skin meets the floor. Thanks for watching. Good luck with yours.
Good info - thanks man! I am trailer shopping now. Going to make a toy hauler conversion. Take motorcycle out, fold down bed. That's my current plan. Def. Going with a 7' wide. Probably 14' or 16'. My wife won't like the back ramp, but she enjoys riding more. So she'll actually LOVE it. 😁 I have a DC wiring question which no videos seem to discuss. ?: Is the trailer frame a good enough ground to use for DC lighting? Or do you guys run both POS and neg to lights? I'm thinking of just running POS. to lights and grab neg from the frame. Good info. I'll watch yr others vids... SUB'd.
Thanks for watching and subbing. It depends on which lights on my build your re referring to. My interior LED lights are 110v AC and run off of the inverter. Yep, I know LED lights run off of DC and these are inefficient but I already had them for another project. Now, DC stuff, If you ground the batteries to the frame then you could also use the frame for negative for DC lights and fans. My DC stuff is my fan and my water pump. I ran both wires to my fuse block because there was a place for them. But, yeah, I could have grounded to the frame because the batteries are grounded to the frame. Good observation. Good luck on your project.
I would prefer tandems vs single specially for long trips losing one axle isn't going to save a whole lot of weight. Cause moving at reasonable hwy speeds and blow a tire with that much weight you run the risk of flipping the trailer and taking you with it 🤷♂️
Did you do a video on the rack that's on top of the topper on the truck? One more layer of security can be a removable tongue jack. There are two products that accomplish this, "The Ultimate Jack", and the "Jack-E-Up". It's hard to steal a trailer if you have to lift 300lbs of tongue weight onto the hitch ball. Jack-E-Up ua-cam.com/video/dD1M-t2eqxM/v-deo.html The Ultimate Jack ua-cam.com/video/uO9wj0Wta8I/v-deo.html
Well, I don't know your experience level so I can't speak for you. I have been towing for 40 years and changed trailer brakes a few times. If they and the brake controller are adjusted properly the trailer brakes last quite a while, several years in fact. As far as expense, your mechanic must be happy with what you are paying. Drum brakes are not that difficult to replace and should not be that expensive. Just my 40 years of experience, your mileage may vary. Thanks for watching, good luck.
GB Conversions & Adventures I still don’t understand why a single axle is preferential. I would think that the extra weight of the second axle would be a small price to pay for the peace of mind of knowing you’d have increased trailer stability if there was a blowout on one of the tires. I’m a newbie so could be completely off the mark, but would appreciate understanding better and thank you in advance for the reply.
@@Stormsteed I got a single axle because it's easier to get back to my camping places in the woods I had an old cargo trailer when I say old I'm talking about early 80's I used it for years to camp in the everglades in south Florida it's been stuck in water mud you name it it's been there. it to was a single axle I could turn in tight places it would go anywhere it was 6 x 12 x 5 foot 8 inches. I am 6 foot 3 but was a lot younger back then and didn't have the back trouble I have to day so I sold it about 4 or 5 years ago and went for a taller trailer so I wouldn't have to been over as much. I got it with a single axle again because I am planing to do a lot of boondocking with my buddies how ever over the last 3 years one of my buddies passed and the other had a liver transplant and isn't doing so good. So with out help in the woods I can't go way out and off trailer because I would have no one to pull me out if I get stuck so I am still going to boondock but will stay close to roads and at times I'll stay in some RV parks and I would like a duel axle trailer but I just got this one and I'm keeping it. another reason is with 2 axles that's 4 tires to but and I'm not sure about everyone else but I would be taking more tires with me I hate getting stuck on the side of the road with a flat. I hope that help you understand why some go with single axle and some don't.
@@Stormsteed Everything about these trailers is a compromise. You have to decide for you what is more important. Knock on wood, I have never had a blow out on a trailer. Most likely you will never wear the trailer tires out, they will dry rot first. You will be replacing 4 tires instead of 2. Dual axle can carry more weight but if you are not carrying the extra weight that is a waste of fuel to drag it around. Most tandem, dual axle, trailers only have brakes on one axle not both. Also, on a tandem axle, if the tire does blow out the wheel will go down, the other axle does not keep the deflated wheel/tire from going to the road surface. Overall, you have to decide what works best for your needs. Thanks for watching and asking. Good luck on your travels.
New video every Friday. COMPLETE CARGO TRAILER BUILD ua-cam.com/play/PLcWRMoi_je50fGQ7DaPwHCCRmwlznS07F.html
COMPLETE ELECTRIC SYSTEM HOW TO’s ua-cam.com/play/PLcWRMoi_je503p6QVvpOM0MB563hQgUKb.html
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I don’t think the weight savings from one less axle out weighs the safety in the event of a blow out. Just my two cents. Nice video!
Thats ok if it fits your requirements. Never had a blowout yet.
Yes no doubt it’s all about you needs! I just like to comment for people scrolling through looking for different opinions, just had my first blow out the other day and the other axle doesn’t help as much as you would think so I can only imagine with just one axle going down some steep grades. Im living in mine months at a time and have gone across country so my needs are different than most.
@@cargonomads4947 All good. Always thanks for your input. Different views are reflective of different experience. I hope all is well with your CTC after blowout.
I have had blow outs on single axle trailers. It is no big deal. It just feels like something is dragging. Had a blow out on a double axle trailer as well. In this case I could "limp" along a bit to find a preferred place to change the tire.
I prefer wearing out only two tires at a time instead of four. Less expense.
I so appreciate your style. No fluff, no annoying background music and no wasting your viewers time with useless information. In fact, this video is so good, I saved it, shared it and watched it twice. Thank you. This is chuck full of useful information. Well done you! I just found you and subscribed. 😊 Greetings from Texas!
Howdy neighbor. From DFW area myself. I am glad the video worked for your. Thanks for watching. Good luck on your project.
Š će se će ššššOk pa se po pa se od
Might also want to consider getting your trailer Low Jacked. A fairly inexpensive way to do that is get one of those devices that are intended for bicycles. The device is small, easily hidden/disguised, etc. And the device can be linked up to your cellphone through an app, so if your trailers gets stolen, the police can link their system to your app & go hunt down the thieves.
I like it. Great suggestion!
I got everything you want EXCEPT I got the 6' wide and tandem axles and Barn Doors. I got a factory roof rack, two windows, lift kit and torsion axles. It was 10,000 and it took them 6 months to build it due to material delivery delays. I love the barn doors because I don't have the room for a ramp. Most people on UA-cam that have the ramp wish they did not unless they haul toys that need it. I sold an 8' wide Airstream to get this 6' wide cargo trailer. It fits in my driveway so much better and I can walk around it. Even my Airstream had the bed "fore & aft" rather than "port to starboard". Still, the ramp with a false wall like you showed in a picture is a pretty cool idea. . Thanks for sharing.
PS. I finally found (on Quora) that you should NOT ground the 120 AC to the chassis if the chassis is also used for 12V DC common (according to NEC since about 1980's). If you are using a metal tool with a short and then you touch a metal object you could get electrocuted. Pretty slim odds but I guess it's happened.
Rewatching, thanks again. I've built 2 cargo tailers so far, brushing up for the next one.
Nice build. Great insight for future builders.
Small note. The bikes on the rear bike rack wont hit the trailer if 3-4 bungees are used holding the tire in a specific position. (I hook from from tire to pedal crank to hold position)
Thank you for watching and the suggestion.
Having built 2 home built campers I will tell you that windows on a trailer or camper must be DOT approved and in many states if they are not the trailer will not pass inspection preventing you from registering it and also large fines if you get stopped and checked by an officer who knows this law. This is why most people who build them either get them in the trailer from the factory or go to RV scrap yards. One other option for DOT windows cheap is truck caps.
Thanks for your comment That would be something to check out. Mine are tempered glass. However, I don't see why they should have to be DOT approved windows if no one is in the trailer during transit, ever. As I said, might be something to investigate.
Many semi trucks also have similar style bunk windows.
Thanks for the post I been working on my trailer I didn’t want any holes in my camper so I got a 110 plug in large HISENSE heating and air conditioner that I could plug in to heat and cook a large room that fit under the cabinets. It was about 600.00 but if it ever goes bad I can just unplug it and replace it no worries no holes in the camper. Thank you for the post I had a friend help instal a fold down bed and full shower the shower has a tankless hot water heater so as long as I have water I do have endless hot water and full shower. I just wanted something for myself as I travel for work tired of living out of dirty over priced hotel rooms that when work calls and I have to go to the next place I have a tv shower bed and toilet. Thanks again for the post
Sounds like a nice build. Happy travels. Thanks for watching.
A false back wall can be inset creating space for propane, on-demand water heater - even a few bikes with the front tires removed.
I agree. Thanks for watching.
You make a lot of good points and gave people good things to watch for. I'd also add that you want a tall trailer where the ceiling height is closer to 7' not barely 6'. The roof needs extra insulation and adding thickness to get that reduces head room and they you are cramped in height. Added height also gives you extra room of storage and a more open feel.
I'm also amazed that so many build with 2 x 4's??? this isn't a house and you aren't supporting a second floor or roof. It also takes up more space & adds weight. Clear 1 x 3 has all the structural strength you need. My fold up bed is 1 x 3 with 3/8" ply, plenty strong, doesn't deflect and weighs way less. Same with shelves and cabinets, why sacrifice space & add weight by framing with 2 x 4's? I've also used aluminum tube & channel to build with, putting pink foam insulation as a core and gluing luan ply for skins on cabinet doors and walls. very light, very strong. Yes extra work but weight savings is worth the extra capacity and fuel economy.
Think about your kitchen, do you really want to cook in a 6' x 12' space??? (just a size example) Heat, odors and moisture. I have an awning and my stove can hang on the outside of the trailer plus a table on rails bought from camping store. Stole this Idea from an old popup camper I had.
And no one ever does a follow up video on their peel & stick tile or floor covering. I laugh cause the adhesive on this stuff isn't rated for the temperatures your trailer will reach when stored or in towing in hot summers Ever tried using Velcro in you car??? The adhesive gets soft and gooey in heat... then falls off.
There's more pros to the tandem axle than just weight capacity. They are much more stable when pulling too. I would take a tandem over a single axle any day, personally.
Add wood studs next to the Z channel this will allow for mounting and not add as much weight. Get the trailer with 16inch floor beams and modify the area you need for the tanks. The roof AC unit is the better choice, I have own several trailers and never had a AC unit fail, no need to build a falls wall that would take away room in the trailer. Not sure why a trailer would get humid from a shower for taking shower in a trail is not the same as at home and do those showers not have exhaust fans? Don't buy a V-noise trailer. Buy a flat noise for mount stuff up front and buy are make a v-noise cover, this help protect the stuff and better air flow.
Good suggestions. We can agree to disagree on some points. Good luck on your project.
This information is solid gold 🟨
Glad you liked it. Thanks for watching.
Lots of things to consider, and good explanations as to why you would choose one item or idea over another.
Thanks for watching.
Thanks for being straight to the point
YW, Thanks for watching.
Wow , fantastic video, Great advice... so much better then all the MetroGay videos
Thanks for watching.
What a great, informative video. Thank you for taking the time to share.
Thanks for watching.
The nice thing about a tandem axle is if you blow a tire with a tandem axle you can safely pull over with the trailer not whipping around behind you. Should you have flat and no spare or a flat spare you can limp to a shop an get repaired. I ve had a single axle and thats exactly what happened. After that my mind was made up.
I have had a tandem tire failure on a loaded car trailer. Recovery from that catastrophic failure poses its own unique set of problems. Tire debris flying and damaging the other tire is one problem, what damaged one tire may have also damaged the other tire is another. Also, when the blown tire fails the wheel does not stay suspended in the air, it too falls to the road surface. Yes you can limp the trailer out on one wheel, but you have to jack up and tie up the lame wheel so it does not drag the ground. Also, tandems are more difficult to maneuver in tight off road applications. I travel with good tires and carry a good spare. Each style has its good points and draw backs. Thanks for watching.
I have a 14x7. Im fixing up.im going to live in it while traveling construction.
Good luck with your project.
Never ever realized they don't use box tubing. Thank you for this review and your comment on the Aluminum skin. You can by it in rolls, but I was curious about the thickness. Great build - inspiring Sir!
Thanks for your feedback and for watching.
The information was excellent. I'm about 50% done with cargo conversion. I'm at the campground for the summer and will definitely use some of your tips.
Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
I like the way you put the ac
Thanks Andrew and thanks for watching.
Love your videos. Very informative and helpful. I’m copying your wiring for the 12v system! 😀
Thank you Melinda. I am glad it is working out for you. Good luck on your project. :)
You are an excellent teacher. Well done!
Thanks for watching and the kind words.
Another great video. Thank you Greg!
There are many ways to mount a window unit. You could design it into a cabinet space and have it sit inside a metal box with a good air gap so it can flow the air like it needs to but only have maybe an inch of it out the side of the trailer. You would have to factor in a drip pan setup to let the drip escape but overall not terribly difficult and it would hardly be noticeable.
All good ideas. Thanks for watching.
Great post, we like our 8 foot wide so we can put our lifted cart inside. Cool trailer 😎
Very nice. Thanks for watching.
Oh, you cheep son of a gun you. You are doing the exact same stuff I do. I don't know why it takes so long for people to figure out to use the less expensive mass manufactured products are cost effective. One service call for a RV air conditioner or refrigerator cost more than a new big box store unit that can be used at home or in the RV.
Great minds think alike. Thanks for watching Joe.
Great info based on experience - thx for sharing
Thanks for watching.
This is the best collection of tips I have seen. Thank you.
Thanks for watching.
I agree with everything you said, except the trailer width, I want something a little less wind resistant and compact, easier to see around when towing.
Thanks for watching.
Mine is 6x12 v nose with 16 on center box tubing. I need 16 on center floor because I haul motorcycles which put weight in two spots instead of evenly distributed. I would like 7 foot wide, but only if the wheels were in the same location as my 6 foot wide. I haul a lot of narrow roads and a 8 1/2 foot wide wheel to wheel on a 7 foot trailer is not fun. Plus, might as well get an 8 foot since the wheels are just as wide.
All good points Dave. Valid for your application. Thanks for sharing and watching.
I like the very end of the video, when you said hopefully they steal somebody else’s trailer lol.
LOL. Well, I really hope they just don't steal anyone's trailer but certainly not mine. Thanks for watching.
Great info, well done thank you
Thanks for watching.
Great video - excellent advice to consider I've not heard from the many other videos I've watched. Very appreciative for my future build! Many tks.
Thanks for watching Sean. Good luck with your project.
enjoyed it. condensed and precise. thx
Thanks for watching.
Very informative. I'm ready to purchase a trailer since I sold my Jayco "LEAKMASTER" '95. LOL. IT was a good unit but we rough camp deer hunting and the Jayco was too low with too much plumbing junk hanging underneath to get in and out w/o breaking things. Also we need to haul 2 atv's so your advice is timely.
Thanks for your wisdom.
Sounds like a wise change. Good luck on your CTC. I hope it works out for you.
@@FakeLegGreg Thank you. I'm positive it will be an improvement over the the poorly insulated, cramped Conditions of my 3 previous campers in 30 years. They were good enough but when you need to haul a couple Atv's as well as camp the whole program needs to change. Thanks again.
Wow! Lots of good information there GB. Thank you very much!👍🏼☮️
Thanks for watching. Good luck with your project.
It's as though I wrote this Summary, glad to hear confirmation. The dual axials and 16 in wall beams may be the only thing I may disagree. I have found that some insulation in the floor is needed too many people complain about the floor temperatures. The roof and Portable AC are definitley not good. My choice would be window unit or one of those mini splits, but window units easy and cheap to replace. a mini splits serve more funtions, as a heater, ac, fan, dehumidifer. The water and electrical setups in some cargo conversions are crazy they have no access to either if somethign fails I would suggest building all electrical on a removable wood panel and place in rear of trailer behind fake wall. Too many people stuffing electrical in closed up areas hard to get to. I just recently realized the fake wall is the way to go with window AC. I think placing water and propane in a trailer causes a lot more grief then they are worth. If you need either do the minimum. Like no shower or toliet but a sink, no propane hot water heater but a little buddy just in case. Keep the plumbing and gas down to a minimum. Plus cuts back on weight.
In fact I would suggest making as many things modular so they can be moved with ease. I was thinking electric in tracks on top of walls, but it may be better to have them run on the bottom of the walls. An odd think I thought of was make a bumper in the rear of the trailer so the trailer can withstand a slow moving hit in the rear. Most trailers will suffer a lot of damage if hit in the rear.
Thanks for watching. All great observations and suggestions. Good luck on your build.
RE Hollandsworth sent us over -- We've been following his build. So many good ideas you presented... great info. Thanks! Kir and Ron in Tennessee
Thanks fornthe kind words and following along. Good luck on your project. Hope all us well in Tennessee.
Great. Learned a lot!
Glad to hear it! Thanks for watching.
Im so glad you took the time to make such an informative video on cargo trailers , I'll be following you and subscribe to get more of your knowledge on these trailers or related subjects.
Thanks for watching and subbing. Good luck on your project.
Super helpful. Thank you sir
Excellent ideas, thank you. Really gave me a lot of things to think about for my upcoming build. I am now a subscriber!
Thanks for subbing. Good luck on your build.
Thanks for your insight.
Thanks for watching.
*I know nothing about trailers, but I KNOW you have an S trap @**8:15*
LOL. Thanks for watching. Yep, it does have an S trap under the sink.
Excellent content. THANKS MUCH!
Thanks for watching.
Informative ! Thanks
Thanks for watching.
great info
Thanks for watching.
You can get a 5,000 lb single axle. I think by law in most States they come with electric brakes. Trailer manufactures build with 3,500 lb axles. they are cheaper. On windows, safety or tempered glass should be used for windows on anything that moves. When tempered glass brakes it shatters into little cube shapes. Regular glass can scatter larger pieces of sharp glass onto the road.
You are correct about the axle and I like that idea a lot. I agree about the windows and my windows are tempered glass. Thanks for watching.
Great video, thanks!
Thanks for watching. Good luck on your project.
Excellent!
Thanks for watching.
Great information. Please explain more about Your Walmart Refrigerator.
The fridge is a 110 volt 4.3 cu ft Gallanz dorm fridge with a small freezer. We can run it off the batteries with the inverter or shore power. It could also be run off a generator. You could buy a generator and fridge for less than the high price RV fridge. Here is a aff link amzn.to/38Q3JJm
@@FakeLegGreg I have a 4000 watt generator. What I was wondering about is if you had a battery on the front of Your trailer and was charging Your car battery and this second battery will the alternator be overloaded at times of high use. like running the truck A/C and maybe headlights and charging this 2nd battery two?
@@missouritraveler6401 I am not sure about that. This is a compressor refrigerator and compressors use more amps to get started, so there is a surge. I don't have the two electrical systems crossed because I didn't want a malfunction in the trailer to affect my tow vehicle and possibly get stranded. We did have the fridge on 2 6 volt 200 amp golf car batteries with a 1500 watt inverter. The batteries were recharged by 200 watts of solar panels so recharging as we were driving. We had that setup in the bed camper of our truck. The only time we had a problem was tropical storm on the east coast kept it cloudy for a week. If you keep the fridge full and shut most of the time, it will require less power to keep it cool.
@@FakeLegGreg Thank's for the information GB.
@@missouritraveler6401 YW MT. You are welcome to look on my about section and email me privately. We can dig into this further. I am always willing to learn more.
Always,,,,have a dual axle trailer.
Thanks for watching. Agree to disagree. Not always.
So informative dear friend, thanks for sharing with us, you are so skillful, new friend here enjoying your video
Though I haven't got a trailer or car yet but I have loved this video, because I enjoy cars. stay blessed dear
Thanks for watching.
Great information!!
Thanks for watching!
GREAT VIDEO THANKS. which axle do you prefer with a 6 x 12 cargotrailer single axle. 3500lbs or a 5,000 lbs axle. Would appreciate any thoughts you might have and thanks you on this video. 👍
Good question. My build added up to around 3350 lbs with 5 gallons of water. I could carry about 15 more gallons. I was getting close to maxing out my 3500 lbs and with us in the trailer we were certainly over 3500 lbs. A 5000 lbs axle would probably be a good investment. Good luck.
I know there are pros and cons for double-axle versus single. I am about to buy another new dual axle 7'X16' cargo trailer. I cannot get single axle with smaller than 7'X14'.
Yep, at some point in trailer size you will have to get a dual axle.
Great info. Hard to find a 7 foot wide V-nose single axle.
Thanks for watching. Yep, I agree.
I just bought one. 7 by 12 by 7 height. Costum made. The extra height is great. Great video xx
@@veganfromvenus congratulations. Good luck on your project.
Most of the time it’s worth it to have one made to your specific needs, if you aren’t afraid to drive to Georgia that’s where they are all made, the farther from Georgia you go the more expensive the trailers get. And if you get one made it’s only a few hundred dollars extra to upgrade from a dual 3,500lb axle to a single 5,200 lb axle with better brakes. That’s what I did and towing is effortless.
Grizzly trailers in Georgia just manufactured a brand new 7x14 single axle (5,200lb axle with brakes) 7’ tall trailer for under $3,000 out the door and they did quite a bit of custom stuff for me. Great people highly recommend.
A lot of good information, thank you.I was semi-considering doing a build on a Carry-On 6 x1 2 V nose trailer and I was wondering if it was sturdy enough to put time and effort into doing so. Mine looks very similar to your model so I assume I have Z channel walls also. I also had no idea this was used. Looks like yours held up ok though. Any particular concerns with this model other than what you described?
Yep, mine is good enough. When they originally build the trailer they are not concerned with making sure that all the little gaps are sealed where the aluminum skin meets the floor. Thanks for watching. Good luck with yours.
Great video!
Thanks for watching. :)
Good info - thanks man! I am trailer shopping now. Going to make a toy hauler conversion. Take motorcycle out, fold down bed. That's my current plan. Def. Going with a 7' wide. Probably 14' or 16'. My wife won't like the back ramp, but she enjoys riding more. So she'll actually LOVE it. 😁
I have a DC wiring question which no videos seem to discuss.
?: Is the trailer frame a good enough ground to use for DC lighting? Or do you guys run both POS and neg to lights? I'm thinking of just running POS. to lights and grab neg from the frame.
Good info. I'll watch yr others vids... SUB'd.
Thanks for watching and subbing. It depends on which lights on my build your re referring to. My interior LED lights are 110v AC and run off of the inverter. Yep, I know LED lights run off of DC and these are inefficient but I already had them for another project. Now, DC stuff, If you ground the batteries to the frame then you could also use the frame for negative for DC lights and fans. My DC stuff is my fan and my water pump. I ran both wires to my fuse block because there was a place for them. But, yeah, I could have grounded to the frame because the batteries are grounded to the frame. Good observation. Good luck on your project.
I would prefer tandems vs single specially for long trips losing one axle isn't going to save a whole lot of weight. Cause moving at reasonable hwy speeds and blow a tire with that much weight you run the risk of flipping the trailer and taking you with it 🤷♂️
What is the recommended thickness of the aluminum skin?
Hi, where are you located I need someone to rebuild a 2003 Coleman Sedona roof.
50 amp service actually provides 100 amp capacity.
Wouldn't change a thing.
Did you do a video on the rack that's on top of the topper on the truck? One more layer of security can be a removable tongue jack. There are two products that accomplish this, "The Ultimate Jack", and the "Jack-E-Up". It's hard to steal a trailer if you have to lift 300lbs of tongue weight onto the hitch ball.
Jack-E-Up ua-cam.com/video/dD1M-t2eqxM/v-deo.html
The Ultimate Jack ua-cam.com/video/uO9wj0Wta8I/v-deo.html
I like that Christian. Great suggestion.
8.35 lbs/gal
Thanks for watching.
Should'a bought a Cargo Craft
Thanks for the suggestion.
Trailer brakes are a joke. They wear out fast, and are exspensive to repair.
Well, I don't know your experience level so I can't speak for you. I have been towing for 40 years and changed trailer brakes a few times. If they and the brake controller are adjusted properly the trailer brakes last quite a while, several years in fact. As far as expense, your mechanic must be happy with what you are paying. Drum brakes are not that difficult to replace and should not be that expensive. Just my 40 years of experience, your mileage may vary. Thanks for watching, good luck.
Great common sense advice.
Thanks for watching.
I wish mine was 7 foot wide also and I would go back to a 14 foot trailer. I should have never gotten rid of my old trailer.
I am with you there. I think 7 x 14 single axle would be ideal for me.
GB Conversions & Adventures I still don’t understand why a single axle is preferential. I would think that the extra weight of the second axle would be a small price to pay for the peace of mind of knowing you’d have increased trailer stability if there was a blowout on one of the tires. I’m a newbie so could be completely off the mark, but would appreciate understanding better and thank you in advance for the reply.
@@Stormsteed I got a single axle because it's easier to get back to my camping places in the woods I had an old cargo trailer when I say old I'm talking about early 80's I used it for years to camp in the everglades in south Florida it's been stuck in water mud you name it it's been there. it to was a single axle I could turn in tight places it would go anywhere it was 6 x 12 x 5 foot 8 inches. I am 6 foot 3 but was a lot younger back then and didn't have the back trouble I have to day so I sold it about 4 or 5 years ago and went for a taller trailer so I wouldn't have to been over as much. I got it with a single axle again because I am planing to do a lot of boondocking with my buddies how ever over the last 3 years one of my buddies passed and the other had a liver transplant and isn't doing so good. So with out help in the woods I can't go way out and off trailer because I would have no one to pull me out if I get stuck so I am still going to boondock but will stay close to roads and at times I'll stay in some RV parks and I would like a duel axle trailer but I just got this one and I'm keeping it. another reason is with 2 axles that's 4 tires to but and I'm not sure about everyone else but I would be taking more tires with me I hate getting stuck on the side of the road with a flat. I hope that help you understand why some go with single axle and some don't.
@@Stormsteed Everything about these trailers is a compromise. You have to decide for you what is more important. Knock on wood, I have never had a blow out on a trailer. Most likely you will never wear the trailer tires out, they will dry rot first. You will be replacing 4 tires instead of 2. Dual axle can carry more weight but if you are not carrying the extra weight that is a waste of fuel to drag it around. Most tandem, dual axle, trailers only have brakes on one axle not both. Also, on a tandem axle, if the tire does blow out the wheel will go down, the other axle does not keep the deflated wheel/tire from going to the road surface. Overall, you have to decide what works best for your needs. Thanks for watching and asking. Good luck on your travels.
@@FakeLegGreg Especially if you can get a 5000 pound single axel.