Yeah, I've learnt more in the last 16min 36sec than months of research and trial and error, all while being truly entertained. Thanks from one James to another!
Hi Graham, it is Graham isnt it? Ive been following you and I admire your plumbing presentations they are positive, excellent, and certainly entertaining. I just hope that you are surviving during this Pandemic.Congrats on getting your pilots licence. I do most of my boilers repairs myself now. Before I used to call a plumber when I had a leaking diaphram and he told me that was serious, and I should see a doctor about it! But the reason I follow your videos is because of your whit and sense of humour,and your singing no kidding, you have a decent voice Graham I would call you the 'Singing Plumber' how do I know, because Im a songwriter & record producer. Stay Safe!!
Excellent video, I’ve been waiting for episode 3 😀, I’m a DIYer, I’ve been gradually swamping all the rads in my Victorian house, removing 1960’s white ones to fit cast iron or those raw metal ones like you have in your video. That ‘back of the hand’ comment made me LOL I do that all day long ! Keep up the good work
Recently Ive been working in houses with old vented 10mm microbore systems. What a pain the arse! A simple towel rad change can turn into a major job. A full or partial drain down often creates air locks taking ages to remove. If possible hose off from a bleed valve and open each rad valve in turn to expel any air and shit clogging the pipework. Btw James you need some pipe collars on that new rad! Hold tight!! 👍🏻
Hi, in PArt 2 you men tioned a video on reducing 22mm to 15mm and how many radiators can be run on a 15mm... Ive looked but cant find it. is there a formula to tell me if it shouls be a 22 or 15 mm pipe feeding 3 rads. Thanks
Great video, i’m going to fit a Radiator in my garage I’ve seen online that you can do it with the system already pressurised and without draining anything down would you recommend this?
HOLD TIGHT, James l love your videos keep them coming. got a question for you I've got no radiator in my kitchen would love to have one in there coz its 🥶 only way I could do it is via bathroom towel radiator the pipes come down from the ceiling to bathroom could I T off the pipes go through wall to install the new radiator.
Hmmm interesting, I took a few radiators off the wall to do some decorating recently (I didn’t know anything about balancing). Ever since I put them back on my hot water hasn’t quite been as hot as it was before. I’m now thinking this could be because i didn’t balance the radiators and maybe the flow to the radiators is taking away from the hot water? Something to investigate today
Great video at my grandparents house we have 7 radiators 6 were fitted in one go and two never ever heated up from the bottom till this day we had one new radiator fitted at the end of the system which heats up within a few seconds from top to bottom... my question is why have the other two never ever got hot from the bottom no matter how much you turn the valve and balance the system even locking off other radiators in the house does not bring them to get as warm as the other 5 radiators
Hi James, Can you do a quick video on balancing the Drayton TRV4 end to increase the flow please? Not the lockshield side but the themstatic end and if it's possible to do it without the balancing key.
Thanks James great video. What equipment would you recommend I use so I know I’ve achieve 12-15 degrees between the flow and return when balancing my rads. 👍🏾👍🏾
James. Having been very disappointed with our nee ASHP and UFH install. Would you consider doing a video on making up a hybrid system of an lpg fed boiler ( joys of living in the sticks with no gas and limited places to place an oil tank/lpg tank ever since the regs changed and the fuel providers requiring that they can see the tank for refilling) Thanks matey
Useful. I have Tado Smart TRVs on all my rads except one. Love them. Bet I could still eek out some extra performance balancing all the lock shields though. James you any experience of these or similar?
Hi, great video, thanks. I have a question though, am not of the trade but we've had our loft conversion done and added a new radiator to an existing system combi boiler. We've realised the new radiator takes a long time to heat up and its not as hot as the others plus once the new rad gets hot the pressure gauge on the boiler shows pressure of over 2. any advise would be helpful. Cheers.
Hi. You’ve added a new radiator to the system therefore increasing the volume of the system. Internal Expansion vessels in combis are rarely correctly sized for most systems but this fact gets ignored! If your pressure is increasing to 2 bar when heating is running, this is down to the expansion vessels not allowing enough expansion. No 1. Drain system and check pressure/pump up internal expansion vessel on boiler to 0.9bar. Boiler must be drained and drain tap open. No 2. Add an extra expansion vessel to your system. Good luck.
I've got a Wilo pump but I've no idea how to set it. The markings are similar to the one shown at 12:02 except mine has numbers 1, 3 & 6 either side. What do those squiggly markings in square boxes mean? Should the red knob be pointing to the left or to the right side? Top centre I know is to bleed the pump but mine is currently set at 3 on the left side - is that about right for a three-bed house?
It'll get hot. Each rad on the circuit will be of the same temperature when trv's are consistent. That way you know each rad is balanced and one us not hogging the heat.
@@Jammydodgers41 That's not the definition of balanced. My rads are all hot but I've drained the system loads of times and swapped out rads. The lock shields are all different and I've never adjusted any of them with any degree of science. So unless I'm really lucky, I have hot rads on a completely unbalanced system.
@@berbababy Hi Marco. Balancing has two aims 1. heat to all services evenly when being called. 2. Low return temperatures for condensing purposes. Your best bet is open every trv (with heating system off) and close every lockshield. Turn on heating. go to your first rad and crack open the lockshield 1/4 (or whatever as they are all a bit different...annoyingly!) Use a touch sensor of thermometer to measure the flow and return differential. If you have about -15 deg diff between flow and return (so say 70 deg in and 55 out) with it just cracked open after 20 mins, you're done on that rad. Do every radiator the same. Run the system with all trvs open and do a final walkround with your thermometer. If any a struggling now that the systme is fully operational, give that rad a TINY crack open. Monitor until the end of time.
@@plumberparts This sounds like a massive faff. . . Bleeding is enough of a faff but that's sorted with auto-venting valves. Surely they can make a product that auto-balances???
At least half of the pump valve unions I Go to don't work or if they do manage to shut off the water quite often the gate jams shut and the spindle snaps and then you are screwed. so after you have drained down it won't fill up again because the system is full of sh*#t. Then the customer asks you why it didn't take 5 minutes to change the pump.
Yes please, haven't found anything that will help me understand if I need to re-vamp my pipework. House has been extended 3 times (before I bought it), each time adding more rads to existing pipework. In effect, rather than having a central "motorway" in 22mm with 15mm "A-roads" tee'ing off to each room, the whole circuit goes immediately from 22mm out of combi,straight to the first radiator then sequentially around the rest of the house. I suppose there is kind of a main "highway" but its all 15mm. Got one rad furthest from boiler which randomly will or won't heat up, I suspect a flow problem. Any thoughts? And a video on pipe sizes, flows etc would be great....please :)
@@simonbilton2775 Main flows and return pipes should be 22mm as you said, if possible. That said, I've seen 4/5 bed houses run entirely in 15mm. Maybe get a bigger pump?
Thanks James, great advice as always, wish I'd have seen this video a week ago, introduced a new Rad to a small commercial unit and took fooking ages to balance the system, eventually found the AAV's hiding in an obscure suspended ceiling void after a large amount of head scratching Ps. Love the CV safe pussy
🍺 *JOIN THE* *LIVESTREAM EVERY* THURSDAY! ua-cam.com/users/plumberpartsjoin
🛠AMAZON TOOL STORE: www.amazon.co.uk/shop/plumberparts
Yeah, I've learnt more in the last 16min 36sec than months of research and trial and error, all while being truly entertained. Thanks from one James to another!
Hi Graham, it is Graham isnt it? Ive been following you and I admire your plumbing presentations they are positive, excellent, and certainly entertaining. I just hope that you are surviving during this Pandemic.Congrats on getting your pilots licence. I do most of my boilers repairs myself now. Before I used to call a plumber when I had a leaking diaphram and he told me that was serious, and I should see a doctor about it! But the reason I follow your videos is because of your whit and sense of humour,and your singing no kidding, you have a decent voice Graham I would call you the 'Singing Plumber' how do I know, because Im a songwriter & record producer. Stay Safe!!
You are informative and entertaining. The perfect balance of silliness and seriousness. Thank you so much sir, for your videos 🙃
Excellent video, I’ve been waiting for episode 3 😀, I’m a DIYer, I’ve been gradually swamping all the rads in my Victorian house, removing 1960’s white ones to fit cast iron or those raw metal ones like you have in your video.
That ‘back of the hand’ comment made me LOL
I do that all day long !
Keep up the good work
James how about explaining expansion vessels and sometimes they may need upsizing great video as always 👍🏼 keep up the great work
good idea...btw I think they ALWAYS need to be bigger than you want...the more expansion, the happier the system.
@@plumberparts deffinetly makes life easier in the long run 👍🏼
Recently Ive been working in houses with old vented 10mm microbore systems. What a pain the arse! A simple towel rad change can turn into a major job. A full or partial drain down often creates air locks taking ages to remove. If possible hose off from a bleed valve and open each rad valve in turn to expel any air and shit clogging the pipework. Btw James you need some pipe collars on that new rad! Hold tight!! 👍🏻
found this video very informative and useful have a great Sunday James.
I think your videos are brilliant. I’m desperately trying to adsorb it all.
Hi, in PArt 2 you men tioned a video on reducing 22mm to 15mm and how many radiators can be run on a 15mm... Ive looked but cant find it. is there a formula to tell me if it shouls be a 22 or 15 mm pipe feeding 3 rads. Thanks
Good work sir, loved you in 'A Star Is Born' 2018 BTW, and to think you have a trade as well as acting skills! Super.
Thanks, I’m just starting up and this was very useful, thanks 👍
Great video, i’m going to fit a Radiator in my garage I’ve seen online that you can do it with the system already pressurised and without draining anything down would you recommend this?
HOLD TIGHT, James l love your videos keep them coming. got a question for you I've got no radiator in my kitchen would love to have one in there coz its 🥶 only way I could do it is via bathroom towel radiator the pipes come down from the ceiling to bathroom could I T off the pipes go through wall to install the new radiator.
Hmmm interesting, I took a few radiators off the wall to do some decorating recently (I didn’t know anything about balancing). Ever since I put them back on my hot water hasn’t quite been as hot as it was before. I’m now thinking this could be because i didn’t balance the radiators and maybe the flow to the radiators is taking away from the hot water? Something to investigate today
Great video at my grandparents house we have 7 radiators 6 were fitted in one go and two never ever heated up from the bottom till this day we had one new radiator fitted at the end of the system which heats up within a few seconds from top to bottom... my question is why have the other two never ever got hot from the bottom no matter how much you turn the valve and balance the system even locking off other radiators in the house does not bring them to get as warm as the other 5 radiators
Hi James, Can you do a quick video on balancing the Drayton TRV4 end to increase the flow please? Not the lockshield side but the themstatic end and if it's possible to do it without the balancing key.
Well explained Jimmy, nice and clear 👌🏼
Thanks James great video. What equipment would you recommend I use so I know I’ve achieve 12-15 degrees between the flow and return when balancing my rads. 👍🏾👍🏾
Drink a shot 🥃 every time James says “as well”. Good video jimbo
😂
Pished by 12 😂
These are very helpful videos, thank you
James. Having been very disappointed with our nee ASHP and UFH install.
Would you consider doing a video on making up a hybrid system of an lpg fed boiler ( joys of living in the sticks with no gas and limited places to place an oil tank/lpg tank ever since the regs changed and the fuel providers requiring that they can see the tank for refilling)
Thanks matey
Are these self balancing valves worth it in a 3 bed semi with a 12kw system boiler?👍🏻
Thanks for part 3 😅 great vid 👌
Useful. I have Tado Smart TRVs on all my rads except one. Love them. Bet I could still eek out some extra performance balancing all the lock shields though. James you any experience of these or similar?
Hi, great video, thanks. I have a question though, am not of the trade but we've had our loft conversion done and added a new radiator to an existing system combi boiler. We've realised the new radiator takes a long time to heat up and its not as hot as the others plus once the new rad gets hot the pressure gauge on the boiler shows pressure of over 2. any advise would be helpful. Cheers.
Hi. You’ve added a new radiator to the system therefore increasing the volume of the system. Internal Expansion vessels in combis are rarely correctly sized for most systems but this fact gets ignored! If your pressure is increasing to 2 bar when heating is running, this is down to the expansion vessels not allowing enough expansion.
No 1. Drain system and check pressure/pump up internal expansion vessel on boiler to 0.9bar. Boiler must be drained and drain tap open.
No 2. Add an extra expansion vessel to your system.
Good luck.
Thank you James. Appreciate your reply.
Mate, you're the bollox. You make this shit interesting, and watchable. 💯
I've got a Wilo pump but I've no idea how to set it. The markings are similar to the one shown at 12:02 except mine has numbers 1, 3 & 6 either side. What do those squiggly markings in square boxes mean? Should the red knob be pointing to the left or to the right side? Top centre I know is to bleed the pump but mine is currently set at 3 on the left side - is that about right for a three-bed house?
James have you fitted any of the heat hero range? I’d like to hear from someone that has fitted or is going to fit it with an existing oil/gas system
Hi is that vacuum in your store? Reason being just been chasing walls and pipes keep cloging
You can find the beast here! amzn.to/3oefNdu
I’m studying plumbing at college🙌🏼❤️-my leacher showed us you
Thumbs-up 👍
where is radiator from in this video ?
Top notch mate
A light smidgeon of a poo.. You funny 😁
How do you know when a rad is balanced?? I'm not clear on that at all.
It'll get hot. Each rad on the circuit will be of the same temperature when trv's are consistent. That way you know each rad is balanced and one us not hogging the heat.
@@Jammydodgers41 That's not the definition of balanced. My rads are all hot but I've drained the system loads of times and swapped out rads. The lock shields are all different and I've never adjusted any of them with any degree of science. So unless I'm really lucky, I have hot rads on a completely unbalanced system.
@@berbababy Hi Marco. Balancing has two aims 1. heat to all services evenly when being called. 2. Low return temperatures for condensing purposes.
Your best bet is open every trv (with heating system off) and close every lockshield.
Turn on heating.
go to your first rad and crack open the lockshield 1/4 (or whatever as they are all a bit different...annoyingly!)
Use a touch sensor of thermometer to measure the flow and return differential.
If you have about -15 deg diff between flow and return (so say 70 deg in and 55 out) with it just cracked open after 20 mins, you're done on that rad.
Do every radiator the same.
Run the system with all trvs open and do a final walkround with your thermometer.
If any a struggling now that the systme is fully operational, give that rad a TINY crack open.
Monitor until the end of time.
@@plumberparts This sounds like a massive faff. . . Bleeding is enough of a faff but that's sorted with auto-venting valves. Surely they can make a product that auto-balances???
@@berbababy there is almost such a product...I’m actually talking to the manufacturers about it now!
At least half of the pump valve unions I Go to don't work or if they do manage to shut off the water quite often the gate jams shut and the spindle snaps and then you are screwed. so after you have drained down it won't fill up again because the system is full of sh*#t. Then the customer asks you why it didn't take 5 minutes to change the pump.
THIS👆
"Don't reuse your rubbers guys". Leaks will occur and leaks are expensive. 💦😏
That wet vacs a beast. my poor lowly draper.
Didn’t you say that you would explain how many rads you could run of a certain size pipe, didn’t just forget about the video did ya, 😳
Oh bugger!
Yes please, haven't found anything that will help me understand if I need to re-vamp my pipework.
House has been extended 3 times (before I bought it), each time adding more rads to existing pipework. In effect, rather than having a central "motorway" in 22mm with 15mm "A-roads" tee'ing off to each room, the whole circuit goes immediately from 22mm out of combi,straight to the first radiator then sequentially around the rest of the house. I suppose there is kind of a main "highway" but its all 15mm.
Got one rad furthest from boiler which randomly will or won't heat up, I suspect a flow problem.
Any thoughts?
And a video on pipe sizes, flows etc would be great....please :)
@@simonbilton2775 Main flows and return pipes should be 22mm as you said, if possible. That said, I've seen 4/5 bed houses run entirely in 15mm. Maybe get a bigger pump?
George wants to be in the video!
Thanks James, great advice as always, wish I'd have seen this video a week ago, introduced a new Rad to a small commercial unit and took fooking ages to balance the system, eventually found the AAV's hiding in an obscure suspended ceiling void after a large amount of head scratching Ps. Love the CV safe pussy
Tried a smidge of a poo, the whole lot came out. Instructions not clear