I appreciate your comments and your input. The only frustrating part about this video is you are constantly going in and out of focus. It’s quite frustrating, especially when you’re trying to get the advice of a professional photographer and the videos keep going in focus. It’s just not a good selling point.😢
I agree, I think you'll find that problem corrected in all my newer videos. That one is 3 years old, think I should make an update to it? Lots of great lens updates since then.
Hi nice info for many I'm sure however you forgot a few lenses The Nikon 85mm f:1.8 which is a lot cheaper than than it's f:1.4 counterpart also one the medium zoom range I have the latest version of the 24-120mm f:4 VR II which is a lot better than the older version of that lens that was based on the the 24-85mm f:3.5-4.5. But back to the 24-120mm f:4 it might be lighter & cheaper as well as slower than the 24-70mm f:2.8 both with or without VR but to my opinion & many others is just as sharp of a lens & has a longer zoom range & the slower aperture (only 1 stop) can be overcome in most case by the fact that we rarely shoot wide open unless in low light situation & the very efficient VR makes this lens very effective to shoot handheld @ 1/30" when needed For ma a landscaper & wildlife photographer it complete my line up of my trusty AF-S Nikkor 16-35mm f:4 VR G & my long Tamron 150-600mm f'506.3 zoom for birding & wildlife beside for portrait I prefer my trusty AF-D 80-200mm f:2.8 zoom The images that this lens produce are very close to a prime especially for portrait with a bokëi to die for & superb compression but it is not for beginner due to the weight & lack of VR. & of course my Old AF-Nikkor 50mm f:1.8 (pre-D version) with it mostly metal construction. & My main camera for years have been a Nikon D810 & D800E. so I require sharpness & any fault in your lens to technique shows right away.
Just wanted to follow up to let you know I was able to get a blurry background with the nikon d3400 35mm. Thanks for all the tips. I did have to use the flash and settings was aperture mode 1/60, f1.3 iso 800
@@PhotographyGoals now I'm trying to nail the blurry background outside. That's where I'm running into a problem. Inside I have down to a T. What do you think I should set my settings to outside?
One doesn't *need* any lens of f/1.4 for family photos; those are for special purposes. For the cost of an 85/1.4, you can easily acquire an 85/1.8 AND a 35/2. Those two, plus your 50/1.8 comprise a very nice and economical set for everyday photos.
Yep, that is a good option for DX (crop sensor) Nikon cameras. But if you plan to eventually upgrade to full frame, then the Tamron 24-70 f/2.8 may be a better long term investment.
what's the difference between the Nikon AF-S DX NIKKOR 35mm f/1.8G Lens and the Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 35mm f/1.8G (for crop sensor camera) ? Except the price difference?
The DX version will only work on a DX (crop sensor camera) and the FX (full frame) version will work on both. As far as field of view, both lenses are identical when used on a crop sensor camera. The FX lens is larger and heavier because it needs to cover the larger sensor size. There are some benefits to using the FX version. 1) The image quality is better, but not by a lot, and 2) If you upgrade to an FX lens you won't need to replace it. The question you should ask yourself is whether you plan on upgrading to FX in the future. If not, go for the DX version and save some money.
@@PhotographyGoals Also, the 35mm lens works as a 56mm lens even on a DX camera. Yes, you will get benefit on the distance side, but not on the wide side.
Thanks for watching Leticia. I have never had the opportunity to use the Sigma 17-70 2.8-4. I did use the Sigma 17-50 2.8 on a D5100 when I was getting started shooting professionally and it was one of the best crop sensor lenses I ever used. It also maintains the 2.8 max aperture throughout the zoom range. If you don't need the extra 20mm, you can save yourself some money and grab the 17-50mm.
Thank you so much for your input, I’m looking to add a wide lense to take more landscape pictures but that I can use for portraits as well. Im barely starting so budgeting is important. Very helpful video. Thank you!
@@leticiaarciga5157 Glad I could help. That Sigma 17-50 2.8 would be a great fit for your needs. A very underrated lens. Here's a link you can use amzn.to/2Jwy9sb (that's an affiliate link so if you use it, Amazon sends us a small commission for the referral)
Yes, Nikon full-frame and crop sensor cameras use the same physical mount (but their mirrorless line uses the new and improved Z-mount). So you can use the 24-70 here on a Nikon crop sensor camera and then if you want to upgrade to full-frame later on, you'll be all set. That's how I gradually upgraded. I bought full-frame lenses before I even had a full-frame camera.
The lens will be fully compatible, however the field of view will be slightly awkward: ~ 36-105mm. This is perfectly fine though, of you're shooting portraits. For landscapes, it'll be a bit tight at the wider end.
I have the nikon d3400 and I bought the 35mm. You mention cropped with the 35.... Can you explain to a newbie what that means. Thank you.. I'm trying to get a blurred background with the 35mm. Do you think that can be achieved? I take still photos.
Sure..."crop sensor" cameras simply mean that the sensor is smaller than full-frame cameras. In the case of the D3400 it is smaller by a factor of 1.5 (by comparison, the sensor in an iPhone is much smaller). As far as lens selection, that means that the effective focal length (or more accurately...the field of view) when using a D3400 will be changed by that same 1.5x factor. So a 50mm lens will behave like 75mm and a 35mm will behave like 52.5mm (which is why I suggested 35mm on a crop sensor camera to give you a similar field of view as the 50mm on a full-frame. As far as blurring the background, you can absolutely accomplish that with a 35mm on the D3400, especially if it is a prime lens with a wide maximum aperture like f/1.8. I added a link to the description above with an inexpensive 35mm option for Nikon crop sensor cameras. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
And that's the lens I have. The wide 35mm with 1.8 What do you suggest my settings for the blurry background? I really don't like getting close on my subjects. I was wondering if more than 2 people in the pic and I can step back and still get that affect
Here's an article I wrote on this topic - www.photographygoals.com/group-shots-with-50mm-lens/ It all depends, a 35mm set at f/1.8 on a crop sensor camera will have a depth of focus of about 1.5 feet when you are 10 feet away...but that goes up to 11.5 feet if you are 25 feet away (which means more is in focus and less background blur). It's all a matter of just experimenting, seeing how all those factors affect the shot, and developing your own workflow for making photos.
Hey Emily, thanks for watching. There's a few reasons I like the Tamron a little better. First, I think it edges out the Sigma in overall image quality. They are close, but from what I have seen, the Tamron wins out. The Sigma also had some reported issues with the AF, although when I tried it out, I didn't notice anything obvious. If I remember right, the front element of the Sigma rotates when zooming, which can be frustrating if you use graduated filters for landscapes photos. Lastly, Tamron zoom rings turn the same direction as Nikon lenses and Sigma turns in the "Canon direction" so it fits in nicely if you have other Nikon zoom lenses in your collection. That all being said, the Sigma is a little cheaper. But if you're spending $1000, the extra $200 is probably worth it in this case. Did you like the lens comparison videos like this? I am planning on making some more, so be sure to subscribe. Thanks!
Thank you. You covered almost every point I needed information on. I feel like I have a better grasp on lens choice for my up-coming project. perfect.
I appreciate your comments and your input. The only frustrating part about this video is you are constantly going in and out of focus. It’s quite frustrating, especially when you’re trying to get the advice of a professional photographer and the videos keep going in focus. It’s just not a good selling point.😢
I agree, I think you'll find that problem corrected in all my newer videos. That one is 3 years old, think I should make an update to it? Lots of great lens updates since then.
Thanks for the valuable info. I really appreciate how you showed examples of what the lenses can do.
Glad it was helpful! More coming soon so be sure to subscribe...
Hi nice info for many I'm sure however you forgot a few lenses The Nikon 85mm f:1.8 which is a lot cheaper than than it's f:1.4 counterpart also one the medium zoom range I have the latest version of the 24-120mm f:4 VR II which is a lot better than the older version of that lens that was based on the the 24-85mm f:3.5-4.5. But back to the 24-120mm f:4 it might be lighter & cheaper as well as slower than the 24-70mm f:2.8 both with or without VR but to my opinion & many others is just as sharp of a lens & has a longer zoom range & the slower aperture (only 1 stop) can be overcome in most case by the fact that we rarely shoot wide open unless in low light situation & the very efficient VR makes this lens very effective to shoot handheld @ 1/30" when needed For ma a landscaper & wildlife photographer it complete my line up of my trusty AF-S Nikkor 16-35mm f:4 VR G & my long Tamron 150-600mm f'506.3 zoom for birding & wildlife beside for portrait I prefer my trusty AF-D 80-200mm f:2.8 zoom The images that this lens produce are very close to a prime especially for portrait with a bokëi to die for & superb compression but it is not for beginner due to the weight & lack of VR. & of course my Old AF-Nikkor 50mm f:1.8 (pre-D version) with it mostly metal construction. & My main camera for years have been a Nikon D810 & D800E. so I require sharpness & any fault in your lens to technique shows right away.
Just wanted to follow up to let you know I was able to get a blurry background with the nikon d3400 35mm. Thanks for all the tips.
I did have to use the flash and settings was aperture mode 1/60, f1.3 iso 800
Glad I could help!
@@PhotographyGoals now I'm trying to nail the blurry background outside. That's where I'm running into a problem.
Inside I have down to a T.
What do you think I should set my settings to outside?
Thank you-that’s quite helpful.
One doesn't *need* any lens of f/1.4 for family photos; those are for special purposes. For the cost of an 85/1.4, you can easily acquire an 85/1.8 AND a 35/2. Those two, plus your 50/1.8 comprise a very nice and economical set for everyday photos.
I agree with your choices!
Thanks!
Great video, very informative 🙏🏻☺
Thank u brother. Great video truly helped me out. 💯
Glad to hear it!
Thanks a lot,its really helpful 👍👍😊😊
Happy to help!
Can you shoot wide open with a 85mm 1.2 if your group is in a straight line like 6 people?. Love your videos
Depends on how far away you are. I use an app called Photo Pills to check the depth of field on shots like that if I'm not sure.
What about Nikkor 17-55 f 2.8? Awesome lens for portraits!!!
Yep, that is a good option for DX (crop sensor) Nikon cameras. But if you plan to eventually upgrade to full frame, then the Tamron 24-70 f/2.8 may be a better long term investment.
I recognized the Point Pleasant, NJ boardwalk in one of the photos. Is your business in the area?
Yep, good eye! www.lagregorphotography.com
what's the difference between the Nikon AF-S DX NIKKOR 35mm f/1.8G Lens and the Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 35mm f/1.8G (for crop sensor camera) ? Except the price difference?
The DX version will only work on a DX (crop sensor camera) and the FX (full frame) version will work on both. As far as field of view, both lenses are identical when used on a crop sensor camera.
The FX lens is larger and heavier because it needs to cover the larger sensor size.
There are some benefits to using the FX version. 1) The image quality is better, but not by a lot, and 2) If you upgrade to an FX lens you won't need to replace it.
The question you should ask yourself is whether you plan on upgrading to FX in the future. If not, go for the DX version and save some money.
@@PhotographyGoals Also, the 35mm lens works as a 56mm lens even on a DX camera.
Yes, you will get benefit on the distance side, but not on the wide side.
Any input on Sigma 17-70mm 2.8-4 ? I would really appreciate it
Thanks for watching Leticia. I have never had the opportunity to use the Sigma 17-70 2.8-4. I did use the Sigma 17-50 2.8 on a D5100 when I was getting started shooting professionally and it was one of the best crop sensor lenses I ever used. It also maintains the 2.8 max aperture throughout the zoom range. If you don't need the extra 20mm, you can save yourself some money and grab the 17-50mm.
Thank you so much for your input, I’m looking to add a wide lense to take more landscape pictures but that I can use for portraits as well. Im barely starting so budgeting is important. Very helpful video. Thank you!
@@leticiaarciga5157 Glad I could help. That Sigma 17-50 2.8 would be a great fit for your needs. A very underrated lens. Here's a link you can use amzn.to/2Jwy9sb (that's an affiliate link so if you use it, Amazon sends us a small commission for the referral)
How about tokina 11_16 2.8 ?
I don't think I have tested that specific model. But Tokina is generally a good budget friendly option.
Is 24-70 mm lens compatible with crop sensor cameras ?
Yes, Nikon full-frame and crop sensor cameras use the same physical mount (but their mirrorless line uses the new and improved Z-mount).
So you can use the 24-70 here on a Nikon crop sensor camera and then if you want to upgrade to full-frame later on, you'll be all set.
That's how I gradually upgraded. I bought full-frame lenses before I even had a full-frame camera.
The lens will be fully compatible, however the field of view will be slightly awkward: ~ 36-105mm. This is perfectly fine though, of you're shooting portraits. For landscapes, it'll be a bit tight at the wider end.
I have the nikon d3400 and I bought the 35mm.
You mention cropped with the 35.... Can you explain to a newbie what that means. Thank you.. I'm trying to get a blurred background with the 35mm. Do you think that can be achieved?
I take still photos.
Sure..."crop sensor" cameras simply mean that the sensor is smaller than full-frame cameras. In the case of the D3400 it is smaller by a factor of 1.5 (by comparison, the sensor in an iPhone is much smaller).
As far as lens selection, that means that the effective focal length (or more accurately...the field of view) when using a D3400 will be changed by that same 1.5x factor. So a 50mm lens will behave like 75mm and a 35mm will behave like 52.5mm (which is why I suggested 35mm on a crop sensor camera to give you a similar field of view as the 50mm on a full-frame.
As far as blurring the background, you can absolutely accomplish that with a 35mm on the D3400, especially if it is a prime lens with a wide maximum aperture like f/1.8.
I added a link to the description above with an inexpensive 35mm option for Nikon crop sensor cameras.
Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
@@PhotographyGoals great thank you so much. I really was considering buying the 50mm.
But first I'm going to try what you suggested. Thank you
And that's the lens I have. The wide 35mm with 1.8
What do you suggest my settings for the blurry background? I really don't like getting close on my subjects. I was wondering if more than 2 people in the pic and I can step back and still get that affect
Here's an article I wrote on this topic - www.photographygoals.com/group-shots-with-50mm-lens/
It all depends, a 35mm set at f/1.8 on a crop sensor camera will have a depth of focus of about 1.5 feet when you are 10 feet away...but that goes up to 11.5 feet if you are 25 feet away (which means more is in focus and less background blur).
It's all a matter of just experimenting, seeing how all those factors affect the shot, and developing your own workflow for making photos.
How does the tamron 24-70 compare to the sigma art 24-70?
Hey Emily, thanks for watching. There's a few reasons I like the Tamron a little better. First, I think it edges out the Sigma in overall image quality. They are close, but from what I have seen, the Tamron wins out. The Sigma also had some reported issues with the AF, although when I tried it out, I didn't notice anything obvious. If I remember right, the front element of the Sigma rotates when zooming, which can be frustrating if you use graduated filters for landscapes photos. Lastly, Tamron zoom rings turn the same direction as Nikon lenses and Sigma turns in the "Canon direction" so it fits in nicely if you have other Nikon zoom lenses in your collection.
That all being said, the Sigma is a little cheaper. But if you're spending $1000, the extra $200 is probably worth it in this case.
Did you like the lens comparison videos like this? I am planning on making some more, so be sure to subscribe. Thanks!
Thank you for replying that does help. And yes that would be great 😊
Your mic is way off.
Silent