Hi, thanks for the instructive videos! Im in a bit of a bother with my t1n... I brought it to the garage to do a head gasket, low milage engine with track record etc... Instead without telling me they put in an engine fron the wreckers and dont know the history. Im in the procetof trying to get my money back. In the meantime i really nead the van as we're moving abroad soon... And cant afford to have the other engine fixed and put in... The engine they put in has loads of issues too. I managed to fix most of them and was about to replace the high oressure fuel pump with my origonal fuel pump, as it seems it's not in good condition (the engine become very irregular at 2k rpm and the is a pressure issue in the fuel line). The issue is my original pump is a 748 CN 6 and the one on the engine from the crooked mechanic is a 748 cn 1. The CN 6 has an electrical connector but not the cn1. Do you know if there is a way to use the CN 6 with it being plugged in? Thanks
We don't have those options in the states but without the electrical connector we lose control of the quantity, relying only on the pressure control valve to regulate the rail. On-tune with ripping the knob off coarse adjustment and relying on fine tune only. You might get lucky.... but need a lot of good luck to make it work.
Did you ever had a problem with the bolt holding the gear behind the highpressure pump? I have a E class 320 cdi with the om648 and I have some clicking noises and nobody knows where it comes from. I have seen some videos about the gear where the bolt was loose . So my question is can I just tight it up without dismounting the chain and everything around it. Sorry for my bad English I’m from Germany
Yes, you can tighten the bolt in the sprocket if that is necessary but I've not heard of this. There is a common issue with 6 bolts on the back of the high pressure fuel pump and I have a video showing how to tighten those with Lock-tight. Search my videos for "HPFP".
On my 2002 Freightliner diesel sprinter I have replaced low pressure fuel pump, checked all fuses, primed the new fuel filter. There are no codes, but I still can’t get the van to start. It feels like it is not getting any fuel. Any suggestions on fixing it?
Search our channel for "Leak-off" tests. You'll want to test the injectors and the fuel rail for "leak-off" to the return line. if you don't get any fuel in the test vials for either test, the high pressure pump might need rebuilding. We have two videos fro that, search "HPFP".
😵Seems that's the issue... I'll need to fix that... The drive ends with a tiny lake of diesel under the van, and the front side looks like that... Do you think those inside bolts need locktite? (eg. blue?)
Hi, I have an issue with the engine staling while I drive it. The mechanic replaced the primary pump that goes on the fuel tank and he Replace the fuel regulator. And also the filter. But I still have the same issue. And now he wants to replce the high pressure fuel pump. Can you advise me with some ideas of what could be the problem? Thank you
Unfortunately, the problem is your mechanic isn't diagnosing anything, just replacing parts based on guesses. You can do better yourself with a $60 code reader setup to communicate with your van/'s On Board Diagnostic system (OBD). That can tell you if you have fuel pressure problem or not. I have two videos for testing injector leak-off and a video for fuel rail leak off. Both should be performed before replacing any more expensive parts! With a membership at floridavanman.com/donate/ and a few hours of your time, you will spend less fixing it yourself, with help.
@FloridaVanMan I have a 2016 Mercedes-Benz sprinter 2500, and the mechanic said I have to change the fuel pump and do programming on it. He wants to charge me $3300 usd
Replaced it with used pump from a parts donor. I believe the Quantity Control Valve is the issue on the removed pump, but the screw heads holding that on are totally chewed and stripped.
Is it oil or fuel getting dirty on the way down the front of the engine? We have another video showing the 6 screws that often work loose and allow the pump to leak.
@@FloridaVanMan seems to be oil unfortunately. It's roughly 5-8 drips every time I park up. It stops once the engine isn't running. It's not the front main and it's not the turbo so I'm trying to figure out what else it could be
It will result in low rail pressure and hard starts. There are many other causes for these symptoms. Other symptoms depend which model pump. The CP1 fuel pump will leak when the internal seals are failing. We have 2 videos showing how to rebuild the CP1. The CP3 will leak when 6 bolts on the back work loose and we have a couple videos showing this repair also. Rebuilding the CP3 is possible but I have not yet done this.
Stalled randomly as I slowed to stop signs and lights. I don't remember the fuel rail pressure code, but the rail and injector leak-off tests passed so the quantity control valve was blamed. I should have replaced just the quantity control valve from pump to pump but I was tired of working on it after first blaming the in-tank pump and then blaming the fuse panel, thinking the supply was insufficient when power glitched. All that was incorrect theory.
Hi, thanks for the instructive videos! Im in a bit of a bother with my t1n... I brought it to the garage to do a head gasket, low milage engine with track record etc... Instead without telling me they put in an engine fron the wreckers and dont know the history. Im in the procetof trying to get my money back. In the meantime i really nead the van as we're moving abroad soon... And cant afford to have the other engine fixed and put in... The engine they put in has loads of issues too. I managed to fix most of them and was about to replace the high oressure fuel pump with my origonal fuel pump, as it seems it's not in good condition (the engine become very irregular at 2k rpm and the is a pressure issue in the fuel line). The issue is my original pump is a 748 CN 6 and the one on the engine from the crooked mechanic is a 748 cn 1. The CN 6 has an electrical connector but not the cn1. Do you know if there is a way to use the CN 6 with it being plugged in? Thanks
We don't have those options in the states but without the electrical connector we lose control of the quantity, relying only on the pressure control valve to regulate the rail. On-tune with ripping the knob off coarse adjustment and relying on fine tune only. You might get lucky.... but need a lot of good luck to make it work.
Did you ever had a problem with the bolt holding the gear behind the highpressure pump? I have a E class 320 cdi with the om648 and I have some clicking noises and nobody knows where it comes from. I have seen some videos about the gear where the bolt was loose
. So my question is can I just tight it up without dismounting the chain and everything around it.
Sorry for my bad English I’m from Germany
Yes, you can tighten the bolt in the sprocket if that is necessary but I've not heard of this. There is a common issue with 6 bolts on the back of the high pressure fuel pump and I have a video showing how to tighten those with Lock-tight. Search my videos for "HPFP".
On my 2002 Freightliner diesel sprinter I have replaced low pressure fuel pump, checked all fuses, primed the new fuel filter. There are no codes, but I still can’t get the van to start. It feels like it is not getting any fuel. Any suggestions on fixing it?
Search our channel for "Leak-off" tests. You'll want to test the injectors and the fuel rail for "leak-off" to the return line. if you don't get any fuel in the test vials for either test, the high pressure pump might need rebuilding. We have two videos fro that, search "HPFP".
😵Seems that's the issue... I'll need to fix that... The drive ends with a tiny lake of diesel under the van, and the front side looks like that... Do you think those inside bolts need locktite? (eg. blue?)
I put locktite on them to ensure I don't need to do this repair again in 5-8 years, but it is not required and probably** won't need tightening again.
Did you replace the oring on the donor pump
Nope, slapped it on and it has been no trouble at all. That might have been wise! :)
how many ball bearings came out of that ?
Hi, I have an issue with the engine staling while I drive it. The mechanic replaced the primary pump that goes on the fuel tank and he Replace the fuel regulator.
And also the filter.
But I still have the same issue. And now he wants to replce the high pressure fuel pump. Can you advise me with some ideas of what could be the problem?
Thank you
Unfortunately, the problem is your mechanic isn't diagnosing anything, just replacing parts based on guesses. You can do better yourself with a $60 code reader setup to communicate with your van/'s On Board Diagnostic system (OBD). That can tell you if you have fuel pressure problem or not. I have two videos for testing injector leak-off and a video for fuel rail leak off. Both should be performed before replacing any more expensive parts! With a membership at floridavanman.com/donate/ and a few hours of your time, you will spend less fixing it yourself, with help.
Do you have to program the fuel pump
No, there is not brain to the pump and nothing about the pump can be programmed into the van's ECM. Plug and Play.
@FloridaVanMan I have a 2016 Mercedes-Benz sprinter 2500, and the mechanic said I have to change the fuel pump and do programming on it. He wants to charge me $3300 usd
@@Thinklucky2809😮
Thats like buying a used van @@Thinklucky2809
Fantastic video! Once you had the fuel pump off, what did you do to it other than clean it?
Replaced it with used pump from a parts donor. I believe the Quantity Control Valve is the issue on the removed pump, but the screw heads holding that on are totally chewed and stripped.
Have you ever had an oil leak from behind there (dripping all the way down to the alternator)?
Is it oil or fuel getting dirty on the way down the front of the engine? We have another video showing the 6 screws that often work loose and allow the pump to leak.
@@FloridaVanMan seems to be oil unfortunately. It's roughly 5-8 drips every time I park up. It stops once the engine isn't running. It's not the front main and it's not the turbo so I'm trying to figure out what else it could be
The job is done very good and easy. I would like to know how do you know if the pressure fuel pump needs to be replaced?. From South Africa
What are the symptoms?
It will result in low rail pressure and hard starts. There are many other causes for these symptoms. Other symptoms depend which model pump. The CP1 fuel pump will leak when the internal seals are failing. We have 2 videos showing how to rebuild the CP1. The CP3 will leak when 6 bolts on the back work loose and we have a couple videos showing this repair also. Rebuilding the CP3 is possible but I have not yet done this.
Smashing
What were your symptoms?
Stalled randomly as I slowed to stop signs and lights. I don't remember the fuel rail pressure code, but the rail and injector leak-off tests passed so the quantity control valve was blamed. I should have replaced just the quantity control valve from pump to pump but I was tired of working on it after first blaming the in-tank pump and then blaming the fuse panel, thinking the supply was insufficient when power glitched. All that was incorrect theory.
You just installing pump without balancing marks?
What do you mean?
@@FloridaVanMan did not show that you set the marks on pump. It is a balancing wheel and you need to set it properly.
@@jz5808 You must be thinking of some other vehicle. There are no marks on the parts and there is no mention of this in the service manual.