This video deserves much more attention. I see alot of people running even print farms that don't concider any ventilation setup which feels a bit bad.
I like your setup, it is similar to what I had in my head to setup in my printing room. I would need to use a window as well for exhaust and appreciate you not only doing the leg work but putting it all up here in an easy to digest format! I have a question though, will the window exhaust fan suck out too much air and affect print temperatures? I know that the P1S and X1 have active systems to compensate for this, and you seem to print with higher temp materials a lot, has the addition of the exhaust fan affected your prints due to more air circulating through the printing chamber?
@@WaynesForgeMaybe, but the bed and nozzle are heated and during printing the temperature in the cabinet does go up. In fact the Bambu printers in this video switch in fans to control the temperature. It appears that there is a lot more going on than you are aware of.
I've got a Qidi x-max3 and have install a 120mm fan to the rear with a adaptor duct to bring it down to 100mm duct tube going through the wall outside. I run it at 100% most the time when printing PAHT-CF and dont have any problems with printing and havent noticed any difference in chamber temps. The fan is pushing 83CFM ,I am yet to try with ABS
Only issue is if you ventilation pulls to much it will pull all the heat out of the enclosure and cause crappy prints. It needs to match the stock airflow just piped outside. And the door has a big ass crack in it so like others have said just as long as theres negative pressure thats whats important
I printed the exhaust fan adapter but do I need to get a blower or is having the exhaust pipe connected straight to my P1S and out the window good enough? I only have 1 printer.
The key is negative pressure, that more air gets pushed out from the enclosure than in so that minimal particles escape the enclosure and instead out of the exhaust duct.
Same question as above. Does sucking the air directly from the enclosure affect your chamber temps and therefore somewhat defeat the purpose of the enclosure? Have you tested the effect of the exhaust fan on chamber temps?
Yeah, it kinda seems like the ideal solution would be putting the printer in a room with a ceiling exhaust fan to clean the air in the room and run it for a while after a print
@takkaros21 1 second ago I am still waiting for my p1s and already ordered a hepa/activated carbon filter to attach at the exhaust. Those round ones some air purifiers use. It should capture all vocs and small particles before they get out. Seems the easiest and most effective solution when you can't physically exhaust the air outside.
Have you tried printing ASA with this set up? I have very similar (Bento Box, Duct work with inline fan) and i can’t print ASA because you can’t run chamber fan and not having the print warp.
Hi thanks for this video, very creative idea. Do you run the blower while printing or after? Have you noticed any change in the print quality. I heard you can adjust the bed temperature in the X1C settings. Curious if this kind of setup could work simultaneously with the printer, but some jobs are hours or days. I wonder if a bath fan could handle the abuse. Great job, thanks
User If you attach an inline fan to the enclosure and extract this air to the window, will the draft and air movement in the enclosure affect the prints?
HEPA filters work great for particulate matter like PM 1, 2.5, and 10. To get rid of volatile organic matter (VOCs) an activated carbon filter is very important. The carbon filter on the Bambu Lab X1C I have doesn't seem adequate by itself. I am using a Blue Air 211+ with smoke filter for now, but an exhaust system to vent outside would be great. I am curious if too much airflow in the printer will negatively effect the print though.
Cool, video, Lots of good info. Thank You. I'm still trying to figure out what to do in my case. My printer is in my residential windowless basement office with ventilation. No heat and only below grade passive cooling in northern Canada. I need to figure out some kind of insulated damper system to go from indoor to outdoors where the temperatures can vary from +38C down to -40C temperatures. Something where I don't cook to death in the summer or freeze to death in the winter and avoid off gassing myself. Heating isn't a problem between multiple computers and the 3d printer. But the smell from PLA is what has scared me off trying ABS and nylon. I am printing the "Bentobox" found on PRINTABLES, but I think I'm going to step the fans up to NOCTUA fans as BEQUITE doesn't make any fans that small. I don't want to become a wind tunnel of noise. More research. If you have any ideas I would love to hear them. The last thought was an expensive idea, and likely beyond my financial means, A sealed enclosure with a dedicated indoor air exchange with carbon and Hepa filtering system that encapsulates the Carbon X1 and have the AMS sit above it for easier access when changing filaments. But space may be an issue.
Newbie here but question about the setup. The Makereorkd file is for a 3” hose snd the blower is for 4” hose. Do I need to modify the print file, or do you have a 4” adapter to match all the other products you linked?
I have watched some other videos and you really need 2 fans one for bringing clean air into the printer as well as exhausting the bad air. And YES, when you bring in cool air it is going to affect prints. So it is a give and take regarding regulating how much air flow volume is the right amount for the filament and temp in the enclosure. And also a heated chamber is needed for some types of filament. There are probably some other issues not stated here. But I think one issue is that printer beds do not heat 100% evenly all the way to the sides of the build plate. If we had a build plate that did heat evenly from edge to edge I believe that would help a lot here in the warping aspect of parts.
The objective, the venting of fumes generated by 3D printers outside is laudable. However, the video portrays a lack of understanding of basic principles, it is tedious, omits important information, and has not been thought through. Both the Bambu P1S and XC1 have auxiliary fans which vent fumes from the enclosure, they also have activated charcoal filters to absorb VOCs, if ducting to outside is employed, the filters can be removed. The internal auxiliary fan is controlled by the on board electronic circuitry, which monitors the enclosure temperature, and adjusts it to ensure good quality results, when using different filaments. Using 3” ducting and a sizeable blower will almost certainly have a negative effect on the quality of the of the printed items. All of the printers, in the video, are connected permanently to the blower, there are no gates to select the printer in use. If you have all your printers running 24hrs a day, this might be ok. What is required, to remove fumes from a printer is, a printed magnetic connector, 2” duct, and an external vent cover. If such a system fails to provide sufficient air flow, due to duct length , a “small” fan can be added. If multiple printers are being used, then a means of connecting individual printers using gates and a means of controlling volume would be required.
Get a variable speed exhaust like infinity and you can create negative pressure slightly without venting too much. I try to buy variable speed on anything I buy.
@@johndowns4161 Hi John. I can see where you’re coming from. Perhaps something like the Amazon EpheyFIF Quiet Inline Duct Fan with Variable Speed Controller for £11:39. However the printers, P1S and XC1 already have an auxiliary fan which exhausts the fumes via an activated charcoal filter, into the room. This fan is variable speed, and has sufficient power to force the air through the filter. If the air is ducted outside the filter can be removed, this improves air flow. This is the set up I have, and it works fine. My P1S has its back to an external wall, as a result the duct length only needs to be about 15”, and the system works well, using 2” flexible duct. Outside I fitted a three flap cover, and there is sufficient air flow to slightly open the flaps, which is sufficient, and doesn’t affect the internal temperature of the printer. If the duct length needed to be longer, an additional variable speed fan would probably be necessary. Cheers Noel
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
This video deserves much more attention. I see alot of people running even print farms that don't concider any ventilation setup which feels a bit bad.
Great information, had to watch on 2x speed.
Thought you were kidding, but that really fixed it. My guy is living in a different relativistic frame of reference.
@ seriously! I was like did I slow this down? Glad it helped you too!
Real
Good tip
I like your setup, it is similar to what I had in my head to setup in my printing room. I would need to use a window as well for exhaust and appreciate you not only doing the leg work but putting it all up here in an easy to digest format!
I have a question though, will the window exhaust fan suck out too much air and affect print temperatures? I know that the P1S and X1 have active systems to compensate for this, and you seem to print with higher temp materials a lot, has the addition of the exhaust fan affected your prints due to more air circulating through the printing chamber?
No, the P1S and X1C do Not have active heated chambers. But the X1E does
@@WaynesForgeMaybe, but the bed and nozzle are heated and during printing the temperature in the cabinet does go up. In fact the Bambu printers in this video switch in fans to control the temperature. It appears that there is a lot more going on than you are aware of.
I've got a Qidi x-max3 and have install a 120mm fan to the rear with a adaptor duct to bring it down to 100mm duct tube going through the wall outside. I run it at 100% most the time when printing PAHT-CF and dont have any problems with printing and havent noticed any difference in chamber temps. The fan is pushing 83CFM ,I am yet to try with ABS
Only issue is if you ventilation pulls to much it will pull all the heat out of the enclosure and cause crappy prints. It needs to match the stock airflow just piped outside. And the door has a big ass crack in it so like others have said just as long as theres negative pressure thats whats important
I printed the exhaust fan adapter but do I need to get a blower or is having the exhaust pipe connected straight to my P1S and out the window good enough? I only have 1 printer.
The key is negative pressure, that more air gets pushed out from the enclosure than in so that minimal particles escape the enclosure and instead out of the exhaust duct.
Amazing thank you for making this
Same question as above. Does sucking the air directly from the enclosure affect your chamber temps and therefore somewhat defeat the purpose of the enclosure? Have you tested the effect of the exhaust fan on chamber temps?
Yeah, it kinda seems like the ideal solution would be putting the printer in a room with a ceiling exhaust fan to clean the air in the room and run it for a while after a print
@takkaros21
1 second ago
I am still waiting for my p1s and already ordered a hepa/activated carbon filter to attach at the exhaust. Those round ones some air purifiers use. It should capture all vocs and small particles before they get out. Seems the easiest and most effective solution when you can't physically exhaust the air outside.
Have you tried printing ASA with this set up? I have very similar (Bento Box, Duct work with inline fan) and i can’t print ASA because you can’t run chamber fan and not having the print warp.
your confusing exhaust fan with the aux cooling fan you dont run the aux fan with asa but can still use the exhaust fan with no ill effects
Have you found a solution maybe a inline fan with less cfm?
@@EffBYes I did. Thanks!
@@Ggoodnight35great! Please share the details lol
@@EffBI have enclosure with vent to attic. I now run the chamber fan at 50% with ASA.
Great video. Thanks for sharing!
Hi thanks for this video, very creative idea. Do you run the blower while printing or after? Have you noticed any change in the print quality. I heard you can adjust the bed temperature in the X1C settings. Curious if this kind of setup could work simultaneously with the printer, but some jobs are hours or days. I wonder if a bath fan could handle the abuse. Great job, thanks
User
If you attach an inline fan to the enclosure and extract this air to the window, will the draft and air movement in the enclosure affect the prints?
HEPA filters work great for particulate matter like PM 1, 2.5, and 10. To get rid of volatile organic matter (VOCs) an activated carbon filter is very important. The carbon filter on the Bambu Lab X1C I have doesn't seem adequate by itself. I am using a Blue Air 211+ with smoke filter for now, but an exhaust system to vent outside would be great. I am curious if too much airflow in the printer will negatively effect the print though.
Cool, video, Lots of good info. Thank You. I'm still trying to figure out what to do in my case. My printer is in my residential windowless basement office with ventilation. No heat and only below grade passive cooling in northern Canada. I need to figure out some kind of insulated damper system to go from indoor to outdoors where the temperatures can vary from +38C down to -40C temperatures. Something where I don't cook to death in the summer or freeze to death in the winter and avoid off gassing myself. Heating isn't a problem between multiple computers and the 3d printer. But the smell from PLA is what has scared me off trying ABS and nylon.
I am printing the "Bentobox" found on PRINTABLES, but I think I'm going to step the fans up to NOCTUA fans as BEQUITE doesn't make any fans that small. I don't want to become a wind tunnel of noise. More research. If you have any ideas I would love to hear them. The last thought was an expensive idea, and likely beyond my financial means, A sealed enclosure with a dedicated indoor air exchange with carbon and Hepa filtering system that encapsulates the Carbon X1 and have the AMS sit above it for easier access when changing filaments. But space may be an issue.
Newbie here but question about the setup. The Makereorkd file is for a 3” hose snd the blower is for 4” hose. Do I need to modify the print file, or do you have a 4” adapter to match all the other products you linked?
will the adapter fit the p1s bambu as well?
I have watched some other videos and you really need 2 fans one for bringing clean air into the printer as well as exhausting the bad air. And YES, when you bring in cool air it is going to affect prints. So it is a give and take regarding regulating how much air flow volume is the right amount for the filament and temp in the enclosure. And also a heated chamber is needed for some types of filament. There are probably some other issues not stated here. But I think one issue is that printer beds do not heat 100% evenly all the way to the sides of the build plate. If we had a build plate that did heat evenly from edge to edge I believe that would help a lot here in the warping aspect of parts.
I’m looking at buying the bamboo lab x1c do I need to do all this if I’m only using PLA-CF?
No
Probably not if you have it in a separate room.
Just because it don't smell too bad it isn't good for you...
The objective, the venting of fumes generated by 3D printers outside is laudable. However, the video portrays a lack of understanding of basic principles, it is tedious, omits important information, and has not been thought through.
Both the Bambu P1S and XC1 have auxiliary fans which vent fumes from the enclosure, they also have activated charcoal filters to absorb VOCs, if ducting to outside is employed, the filters can be removed.
The internal auxiliary fan is controlled by the on board electronic circuitry, which monitors the enclosure temperature, and adjusts it to ensure good quality results, when using different filaments.
Using 3” ducting and a sizeable blower will almost certainly have a negative effect on the quality of the of the printed items.
All of the printers, in the video, are connected permanently to the blower, there are no gates to select the printer in use. If you have all your printers running 24hrs a day, this might be ok.
What is required, to remove fumes from a printer is, a printed magnetic connector, 2” duct, and an external vent cover. If such a system fails to provide sufficient air flow, due to duct length , a “small” fan can be added.
If multiple printers are being used, then a means of connecting individual printers using gates and a means of controlling volume would be required.
I can see how that would work. Thanks
Get a variable speed exhaust like infinity and you can create negative pressure slightly without venting too much. I try to buy variable speed on anything I buy.
@@johndowns4161 Hi John. I can see where you’re coming from. Perhaps something like the Amazon EpheyFIF Quiet Inline Duct Fan with Variable Speed Controller for £11:39.
However the printers, P1S and XC1 already have an auxiliary fan which exhausts the fumes via an activated charcoal filter, into the room. This fan is variable speed, and has sufficient power to force the air through the filter. If the air is ducted outside the filter can be removed, this improves air flow.
This is the set up I have, and it works fine. My P1S has its back to an external wall, as a result the duct length only needs to be about 15”, and the system works well, using 2” flexible duct. Outside I fitted a three flap cover, and there is sufficient air flow to slightly open the flaps, which is sufficient, and doesn’t affect the internal temperature of the printer.
If the duct length needed to be longer, an additional variable speed fan would probably be necessary.
Cheers Noel
By any chance do you have the link to buy the magnets?
Yeah I am finding the .50 but most are thick 0.12 maybe he meant .12 instead of .10 on the printables page
2x10mm fridge magnets.
Good to raise awareness, but you are in the dark on this topic
wdym
painful to watch