Adam Savage's Essential 3D Print Farm Upgrades!
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- Опубліковано 29 вер 2023
- As Adam keeps cranking out 3D prints from the Bambu X1C and Anycubic Kobra Max, he's realizing there are several quality of life upgrades he can make to his mini print farm to improve its efficiency. He 3D prints and assembles a filament winder to help transfer PLA from one 3KG spool to another, and then redesigns the printer stand to accommodate a massive catch-all filament waste chute behind the printers!
Bambu Lab X1C 3D printer: www.matterhackers.com/store/l...
MANITYA Small Dehumidifier for Bedroom 580 sq ft: amzn.to/473UXFw
PLA filament: www.matterhackers.com/store/c...
Filament winder design: www.printables.com/model/4668...
Anycubic Kobra Max: www.anycubic.com/products/kob...
Textured PEI build plate: us.store.bambulab.com/product...
Adam's 3D printer farm build: • Adam Savage Builds His...
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Shot by Adam Savage and edited by Josh Self
Music by Jinglepunks
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Intro bumper by Abe Dieckman
Thanks for watching!
#adamsavage #onedaybuilds #3dprinting - Наука та технологія
Bambu Lab X1C 3D printer: www.matterhackers.com/store/l/bambu-lab-x1-carbon-combo-3d-printer/sk/M80GDCL5?aff=7553
MANITYA Small Dehumidifier for Bedroom 580 sq ft: amzn.to/473UXFw
PLA filament: www.matterhackers.com/store/c/mh-build-series-pla?aff=7553
Filament winder design: www.printables.com/model/466883-pastamatic-filament-spool-winder-for-bambu-lab-x1c
Anycubic Kobra Max: www.anycubic.com/products/kobra-max
Adam's 3D printer farm build: ua-cam.com/video/taeS72yO__k/v-deo.html
Joint the 3d bust print to make the mouth move and add a finger rig in the base to make it work ... as a one day build episode ... heck work out a way to make some Iron man armour unfold around the bust to make it into iron man ... suggestion for the iron man suit and visibility .. add cell phone cameras to the surface and put small monitors in the brow of the faceplate .. then you get a panorama view by looking up a bit .... add a heat sink and some lap top fans and you get suit cooling by airflow as well .. include a camel back water bottle in the rear (cold water added cooling) and have the mouth piece on the jaw line ... add a mic for speaker mode and of course head phones for hearing ... you can literally then put the controls on the wrist computer as digit sliders with buttons for lights etc ...
30:32 For the most metallic 3D parts you could finish the part and then paint it with a metallic color of your choice. If you want a truly metal finish look into graphite electroplateing or by using a Conductive PLA. You can find it by searching 3D part electroplating or PLA electroplating. If you want a solid metal part you could cast it by making a mold using the 3Dpart. If you just want a metallic PLA I would recommend SILK PLA or a Composites/Metal PLA. Hope This helps. Peace and Love Dude!p.s. Sorry for the duplicate I just want to make sure you got it my message.
“No need to get fancy” creates a table with four two piece legs recessed into the top 🤣
Somebody please tell Adam what a "Bowden Tube" is.
So Adam, I believe it's a PLA called SilkPLA that makes all kinds of nice color anodized aluminum PLA.
The other option is to actually print in Aluminum and have it Anodized or Power Coated any color you want.
I love that so many people are using my winder design! It’s so cool to see an exact copy of the thing I was iterating on my kitchen table every morning in photos from around the world!
Just didn't work for me! The lead screw didn't traverse the spool properly and so filament built up at the edges of the spool and then dropped loosely into the middle, creating huge, loose loops. Eventually did away with the entire lead screw assembly and layered the filament by hand.
Just checking, were you winding onto an empty Bambu spool? The travel of the leadscrew is 61mm and a larger or smaller target spool won’t wind as nicely. Another thing that helps is to keep some tension on the filament either with the TPU wipers, the sandpaper trick that Adam used or just holding the source spool loosely with your fingers. Otherwise IDK, glad you got something working!
@@GekoPrime You and I have discussed this on Printables, but yes, lots of tension on donor spool, used the wipers too. I tried numerous different sized (width and inside diameter) spools... Bambu, Matterhackers, Voxel. There only ones that worked were the self-printed spools from Bambu and others from Printables, and an original Bambu spool. They only worked when layered by hand. I printed the respooler in PLA.
What was your reason for creating it? I just throw the whole 3KG spool on my printer - does yours maxx out at 1KG rolls, or something else?
I think the tensioning system could be a bit better if there is more consistency, it now a bit jerky and it doesnt wind as nice as it could.... maybe add some small weight in between pressing down on the filament so the tension is more constant?
Othwerwise very nice design!
While I assume you probably know this, you can set the slicer to only print the support filament for the interface layers, rather than the whole support. That drastically cuts down on the number of filament changes.
Up Voting this bad boy, its suck a great time saver (and the really expensive support filament)
Also when printing PLA you can use any regular PETG as support instead of that expensive PLA support filament.
That's what Adam said when he explained it, I think!
No, that results in more filament changes. The filament still needs to be changed at the interface points, except now, the filament changes from support to interface and from interface to part instead of just from support to part.
@@gownerjones1450you're forgetting about the perg time it saves.
The way Adam works all alone, with just the camera for company gives me real "The Martian" vibes.
He makes everyone else seem lazy. 😆
he has no friends thats why
@@romoalex i highly doubt that XD but people like him tend to work best alone, or just working while explaining it on the go.
the end, where he got worried about the noise and then realized it was his build working properly and became excited about it was one of the reasons I like watching him. He's so genuine and it makes it really fun to watch.
It's fun how animated Adam gets when he's excited!
My absolute favorite thing about build videos with Adam is knowing that I am not the only one who spouts random sound bytes while working. "Happy? HAPPY. HAPPY. JOY. JOY." Broke me.
Definitely wasn't expecting a Ren and Stimpy cameo
I was not ready for the random Ren and Stimpy "Happy happy joy joy" and no, you're not alone, I do this kind of random stuff too. 🤣
Same. For me it's renditions of songs in the voice of Swedish Chef from the Muppets.
@@MerennulliIt's so weird to read your comment... I pretty much *never* do Swedish Chef jokes (I'm more of a Statler & Waldorf guy) but just a few hours ago I was annoying my wife with my version of him singing "A Thing Called Love" by The Darkness. It was a terrible, terrible thing to behold, and I loved every moment of it, LOL. 😂
Nobody Expects a Ren and Stimpy Cameo, its like the Spanish Inquisition...@@brookep1
Amazing how far 3D printers have come in 10 years. My first home built printer required me to program an Arduino every time I printed. My first commercial printer was $2K and so frustrating to use it mostly sat in my closet. My $100 ender3's are phenomenal.
Agreed. Out of my 5 printers, the $100 Ender 3 Pros are the workhorses. They’re not fancy, no network, no ABL, no touch screen but they work 100% of the time. The $500 and $700 printers are ALWAYS broken down.
Same the only thing I wish is that it could do 500mm/s lmao. How fast is yours?
@@c1ph3rpunkI went with the new Anycubic Kobra 2 Neo and I can't get good prints out of it for the life of me
I started with a Homers/Tevo Tarantula E3 clone. I ended up having to mod it to death. TheTarantula finally gave up the ghost and I bough a Sovol SV06. The Sovol prints all day and night without any issues. The Sovol requires very little maintinance and mods, and it printed all the parts to bring the Tarantula back to life. The Trarantula already has a MKS Nano V3 board, and it is targeted for a dual belt drive Z axis, a Sailfin extruder, and a Hero Me hot end carrage.
CTC Makerbot clone purchased in 2012 is still running..... I do have to run a warmup cycle though because the set temperature of 215 drops below 200 and you can hear its unhappy. Leave it a minute or so to warmup and overcool and warmup again and its all good. Still use the original makerware software because it just works and does what I need. Although the x3g files are a pain if i forgot a setting have to reslice.
You definitely undersold the nesting done on that print. That was so nicely stacked in there, so impressive.
all you do is hit auto arrange lol not too impressive
@@kordellgreen9794 Clearly you didn't pay much attention to the plate because there's *no way* the auto-arrange capability of Bambu Studio would give you that arrangement. Notice the parts nested inside other parts? And some parts overhanging other parts? While I haven't actually loaded the .3mf file in Bambu Studio to know for sure I wouldn't be surprised in the least if Bambu Studio complains with "errors" about multiple parts being too close.
@@kordellgreen9794Ah, I don't have one so I have to nest my CNC stuff myself. Printing the one part at an angle within a nesting algorithm is still impressive .
@@Kloberman Bambu Studio pops up errors for all sorts of shit that will work just fine. You can adjust the maximum spacing between parts anyway in every slicer I've used. PrusaSlicer's auto arrange will do everything you just described, like nesting parts inside or overhanging others.
Damm... 22:05 "Who needs to get fancy?" . It shows how much Adam got experienced. He on the first seasons was all about fancy solutions. I like that middle place.
Little suggestion: when you run a filament guide through an enclosure box, leave some of the guide tubing protrude inside the box. It will allow a smooth path, and avoid a potential kink forming where the filament goes through the box wall.
For those interested in the fillament winder, you can print ball bearings using some airsoft bbs (6mm) or brass bbs (4.5mm).
I love seeing people sketch stuff when they know what they're doing. 14:00 was awesome to see.
It bothered me way too much when Adam mis-drew the last diagonal line, very glad he finally noticed. :)
I miss the thing with the white or silver pen on blue paper. A quality of life thing though: I have put the bin for the scraps on the side. I wouldn't put it behind there - who will go back there to empty it?
@@kataseikohow will go back there to empty it? adam savage will.
yea i'm really glad he included it
its taken me learning cad for the last 5-6 months (i still suck at it btw) but now that i have... i notice i can now also sketch things freehand in 3d ... and visualize them in my head too... a LOT easier. i would personally say that its worth doing just to expand your brain and make it work in new ways. language centers are important for sure... this is a new visual language you teach yourself.
My absolute favorite part about Adams newfound love of 3D printing is his whole-hog approach. I'm sure that for everything we're seeing here, there's hours and hours of him reading and learning and watching youtube videos from more experienced enthusiasts before ever touching a printer. It makes me feel more comfortable in my own habits of making myself a practical encyclopedia of something I am interested in before ever touching a single part of it.
THAT’S GREAT AND ALL, BUT ADAM NEEDS TO STOP SCREAMING IN HIS VIDEOS. THEY ARE WAY TOO LOUD.
@@GardenGuy1943says the person shouting about it...
This is the way. People often forget that we spend years perfecting and failing in order to complete projects and troubleshoot quickly down the road.
I like the design aesthetic of the winder.
Additionally I like the color choice you used, looks like old time brass-ish metal parts.
I thought the same, makes me want to make one just to watch it in action. Maybe get it to wind/unwind some nice metallic thread?
Man, I missed his doodles from mythbusters. Watching him draw plans always brings me back.
Sitting there staring at a nearly completed, rather complex print project and realizing it's not working properly, then saying "I think I might have downloaded the wrong file" is so incredibly relatable.
As a hobbyist seamstress I like that 3d printists are making bobbin winders
dude are you 3d printing? you probably should. you can print complete weaving/knitting/tube? weaving machines! i don't do that but they look pretty awesome.
I can only imagine being in a shop with Adam. Whenever you hear the impromptu percussion you know it’s serious brainstorming time
14:30 Adam Savage is my Spirit Animal. Like I tell my boss; not /everything/ needs to be 3D printed. Sometimes all you need is a bit of plywood and a stapler. As for your table solution; have you considered making a pull-out shelf under the two X1s? I did it for mine, with just enough clearance between the shelf and the top for a cutting mat and another printplate. Pull it out, put your full plate on it to clear while popping the empty plate into the printer.
🇨🇦/🇺🇸... I find it HILARIOUSLY WONDERFUL that you are modifying 3D printed items with WOOD AND GLUE!
You don’t need glue with the textured plate, one of the main advantages is you don’t need glue. The material sticks when hot but releases when the plate cools, so make sure you let the plate cool.
I was thinking the same thing, I don't have that many prints on mine yet but I have done some flat objects with both PLA and ASA that were as wide as the entire plate and didn't have any problems with thim popping off until the plate cooled and then they just slid off
Yeah I kept thinking why TF is he needing a scraping table. You don't need to scrape with PEI just wash with soap and water when it starts not sticking.
@@MattBruman yeah all the lines should just pop off or brush off when cool and you shouldn't need to clean it often either.
How did he manage to buy a textured plate, and think it is the best plate without really knowing how to use it? If you put glue on it, it is just like any of the other bambu plates.
Glue really makes it more reliable. I only apply once a week and keep machines on all day. I will never glance in to see if my 7.00 worth of filament is properly attached again. Even if it works 99 percent of the time that is 3-5 items a week for me and I don't need that for 30 seconds of stick time every seven days
it's just cheap insurance. Especially if you're using oddball filaments I've had plenty pull off early on the X1C especially if it's near the edges because I don't think it heats the same out there.
It's awesome that Adam is still making stuff and very clearly is still passionate about it. It's wholesome and motivating, amazing video!!
30:32 For the most metallic 3D parts you could finish the part and then paint it with a metallic color of your choice. If you want a truly metal finish look into graphite electroplateing or by using a Conductive PLA. You can find it by searching 3D part electroplating or PLA electroplating. If you want a solid metal part you could cast it by making a mold using the 3Dpart. If you just want a metallic PLA I would recommend SILK PLA or a Composites/Metal PLA. Hope This helps. Peace and Love Dude!
be careful with SILK filaments, AIUI they have a lot of additives (tpu?) that make their layer adhesion awful. you have to print them very slow and very hot.
@@shanemshortI've never found any issue with silk materials. I usually run all PLA at 200°C at the same speed and get good results for standard and silk.
I love the Ren and Stimpy happy happy joy joy. It's a joy to watch Adam work.
If you wanted to get really fancy with the "scrape table" (that's what I call my version of this), you could route the surface of the table with the shape of the various plates you have. That way the plates drop in and are flush with the table surface, and you don't have to hold them while scraping.
This sounds just like such an Adam thing to do! This combined with something like Arctyrus's comment about a pull-out shelf under the X1's would be the ultimate! ❤👍
what about magnetizing it?
@@gleechy I like how you think. 😁
What about a slide out shelf, with a recess to hold the bed, that has a scraper fitted on the edge so all you have to do is place the bed on it, push it in and out and the filament is removed!
K.I.S.S. Just put a couple stop blocks on the corners just like the X1C and P1P have on the build plate and no worries.
The blue anodized aluminum color is almost impossible to match with a color filament. The yellow, red, purple and green are easy to replicate using many different brands of silk PLA without having to sand and paint.
This made me wonder if it's possible to buy or make powdered anodized aluminum. You could then mix it into the plastic or maybe use it with some adhesive for a coating.
@@LanceThumping I am by no means smart, but that sounds like a really good idea
I've tried a few, trying to get a decent blue metallic look. Most are way too light colored. The only thing I've tried that was close was Geeetech PLA Royal Blue. If you print it too fast, like most silks, it can end up not being very shiny at all. Your mileage may vary. I print silks on an old printer that runs around 60mm/s. My newer printer that runs at 250mm/s+ usually makes it look dull unless I slow way down on the outside walls.
Amazing video. Your panicked "pause, what was that!" look on your face at 30:13 mark was priceless and I guarantee everyone that is into 3d printing has had that exact same look when they heard something that isnt normal at all when their printers are going. Happy Printing!
Ever since I started 3d printing I KNEW Adam would 1. fall in love immediately and 2. go ham and buy a whole bunch of printers and make a farm asap.
I love the ingenuity of the solutions Adam is adding to the 3d
printing farm he has
So far my favorite metallic has been Hatchbox. I have a metallic gold that I used to great effect. Use very small layers, .16, .12 if using the .4 mm nozzle. Since the hose connectors are a relatively small part you can go as fine as you want and it not take 8 days. Oh, and print the perfect waste basket, using vase mode.
wow, love the print layout at 14:52; that's one good quality printer.
Adam Savage lives my dream life. If I had money, I'd be able to tinker and invent dodads all day! Until then I can live vicariously through him lol
The real impressive part of this is how fast and well you drew up that 3d sketch of the funnel. Started designing my own parts recently and Im so awful at drawing that I just draw a bunch of 2D POVs. Gonna try to apply some techniques you used in that sketch in the future
If you already have orthographic views, you should practice with them to make isometric views. Once you do a few of them, you'll quickly get the hang of sketching isometric views by hand. Start with simple designs then do a few that are more complex. This isn't art, so really if you can create the orthographic views, there's no reason you draw the iso views up front once you understand how to draw in 3 planes. You're actually doing the same thing except you're drawing the top view along a 60 degee axis at your origin. The front views are exactly the same except circle are ovals. This stuff used to be taught in drafting classes. Now nobody knows how to make drawings because of automation with with 3D modeling. It's a shame because people can't make quick sketch on bar napkins. When I was young, I alway checked to see if I had napkins in my pockets from a night of drinking.
Maybe watch a few videos on converting orthographic to isometric.
ua-cam.com/video/IT2_c6jQrz4/v-deo.html&ab_channel=ADTWStudy
You could also practice on Iso graph paper.
www.amazon.com/Isometric-Notebook-Equilateral-Triangles-Measuring/dp/1096640686/
This man loves dry filament. Tbf I don't know how my filament in unaffected.. but I run a print farm in the UK in a room above a cellar. The gaps in the floor boards are so big I can see down into the cellar which is open to the outside, there's no sealed door on it because it used to be used as a barrel store with a big slope ramp. The house is from the 1700s so that's why. Anyway my filament is just sitting on a shelf and humidity is 65-75 indoors in the summer and my filament is just fine?? PETG and ABS. Some of the lesser used colours are a year or more old but they print absolutely flawlessly on the x1c still. I have invested in a dehumidifer for this winter but that's mainly for my cardboard packaging and papers as I can feel it get damper over winter
I've been wondering this too, then I left a roll out in the open for about a year and it started printing like crap and getting ground up by the bowden extruder gear, might not be as noticeable if you use a direct drive extruder but it does seem to get softer
I THINK (sometimes) that PLA is more absorbent than PETG and ABS.
On the other side I am in Scotland with similar humidity and I have to dry quite a lot of filament, even PLA sometimes but especially nylons, polycarbonate, PETG and especially TPU.
Drying PLA is stupid. It's literally engineered around it's hygroscopic properties.
From what I understand from watching many a video, there's not really a concern with needing to try and keep it dry, especially with how quickly he seems to use it. Unless he's using something that absolutely gobbles up water, PLA can be in an average environment for months (Think I've heard up to a couple years from a couple makers). PETG is pickier for sure, and his hotbox is perfect for those.
Love it that the chute was made with wood and relied on core hands-on fabrication skills!!
Adam, doubt you will see this, but thank you. Growing up I couldn't experiment much. Farm life kept me too busy, when your Mythbusters came out, it became a family staple for our house because we all loved the science behind it. Now as an adult, i try keep the child like joy and wonder you have for building and making. Thank you for fostering that in literally millions of people.
I built my first blacksmith forge and lit it off.. had a "you" moment where i had to check if i was missing an eyebrow.. I was. Learned my lesson that day lol. Fun thing to do, 3d print inverse shapes and cast into them wax for molds (easier to sand the print lines out of wax than plastic). I sand cast off those to make metal busts/parts. Take care from a life long fan.
A lot of progress with the 3D print farm this time around! Love the improvements, and excited to see even more use of them with your builds.
Adam if you load the same filament in those empty bays of the AMS it can automatically switch to the other same filament when it runs out and continue printing so you don't waste time changing out and resuming. 👍
That backlash on thee filament roller reminds me of fishing with a bait caster LOL A PEI removable build plate was an absolute game changer for my 3D printing experience
I switched to textured pei plates while printing face shields during the pandemic. I quickly realized what a no-brainer it was to have an extra sheet on hand. I would simply swap plates and put the printed plate on my post-processing bench and then start the next print. I’m no longer in a rush to clean the plate and I let my prints cool naturally. Keeping my plates rotating and having proper time to clean without damaging the pei, I haven’t had to buy new sheets since. It’s honestly the best upgrade I’ve ever done.
These are my favourite type of videos on your channel, they are just very relaxing for me to watch, I don't even do any 3d printing or anything like that, but still really enjoy watching you do this kind of work. Thank you.
(Adam roughly sketching a waste filament chute design)
Me - "Oh cool. He's probably going to pass it off to someone to mock up in CAD and somehow print in pieces on the Bambu."
(Cut to Adam working with plywood in the shape of his sketch)
Me - "Ah. I forgot this was Adam for a moment. That one's on me."
3D printing isn’t the best method for a lot of things.
@@conorstewart2214 Totally agree. I was just in the 3D printing headspace given the title of the video. Then I realized how big it ended up needing to be once he did install it and thought "yeah, he chose the right approach."
use that table you made to store additional build plates! Great work as always Mr. Savage
Every time I watch Adams videos and see his shop. I get so jealous and envious. It’s funny really. We don’t ever think a few things. 1 he was a tv star builder (needs lots of stuff). 2 he has been doing and collecting these tools for decades. 3. It’s his life it really is. Expectations versus reality is huge! And he’s constantly working and making money off his projects. Baby steps people baby steps. Gotta start small to be huge! And I just saw he changed his ending. I miss the old one!
I like the idea for the PEI table, however I'd have made it foldable or collapsible just so that I don't "store" things on it and then find it's occupied when I need to use it.
I’m not sure if there are any ramifications but a little pull out table under the machine might be handy, similar to how some kitchen counters have the little pull out cutting board. Except the PEI board will be a lot less gross. :P
LOL vertical plain syndrome LOL
@@johnfalco9528 lol this is an amazing term for it
Try only making the interface layer use support material. That will result in fewer filament changes because it will make the supports out of the regular filament until the last few support layers, where it touches the print. This also saves on using more support material.
I think that is what he explained. The problem is if you have complex parts. The support filament is good if you have simple overhangs that are mostly just horizontal, as they only require a few layers with the support interface but if you have steep angled or curved overhangs or lots of overhangs at different heights then your support interface is on a lot of layers and hence need lots of filament changes.
Yes I agree. Heard him say in the beginning, "hundreds" of filament changes.
My favorite part was the cable holders that fell off behind the 3D printers, that is the most relatable thing I have ever seen
I love Adam's vocal inanities, their so endearing! I do a lot of odd muttering myself when I'm poking around in my project room
Buy a few extra PEI sheets for your Bambus. The new, improved gold colored version. Clean them with hot soapy water, shouldn't require much if any scraping.
They shouldn’t need glue either like it appears he uses on them. They would be easy to remove if there was no glue, they would just slide off when cool.
That was a fascinating watch. Thank you!
Seeing your issue with the plates from your Bambu printers gives me an idea for a remedy to minor problem I have. I use a Sovol printer and the hotbed is massive. It takes a long time to cool down so I can detach a completed print (depending on the material - PETG is clingy until it cools). Like you said, if the printer's not printing it's wasting time. But the solution is easy - I'll get another PEI plate. As soon as one print is done I'll take the plate out to cool and put in the other one so I can start the next print. It's like baking plastic cookies!
My favorite part of these videos is watching his brain work lol. Like how he tackles problems in such a whimsical and calm fashion.
i've probably watched this video 3 or 4 times recently, admiring the design of your drybox with your carbons on top. i have to admit i'm a bit surprised you built a small scraping table rather than a roll-out shelf on the existing drybox cabinet, considering you're usually looking for ways to create more space in your magnificent cave. seriously candyland for any tinkerer. :)
Wow I am amazed how that mechanism was 3D printed! It's come such a long way. Makes me want to get into it.
It's never been easier to get up and running. You can get a high quality printer for a fraction of the cost it would have cost you just a few years ago. Most of the modern printers have sensors that fix the pain points of setting up a printer. It's at the point now where you plug it in a press print.
Those 12 volt Makita drills are simply the best. I have 2 complete sets and I use them daily. It's a shame that they don't make them anymore. I rebuild them if they fail. 👍👍
I love seeing the big disk sander slowly slowing down in the background while working on the funnel
I love watching you solve problems, you can see the backlash taken out of the gears and everything start to spool up.
bambu now has a setting so instead of purging and wasting the material you can have it print something else that you don't care what the color is. Pretty cool option
He'll end up with a bunch of rainbow benchys.
I'm so glad to see that not the only person who thinks kinetically... also the distraction from odd sounds is SOOO REAL!!! Thank you Adam!
It makes me happy knowing I'm not the only one that plays the drums on everything when I'm "stuck thinking."
I love that you left in a good number of “what the”s and “oh come on”s in there. Exactly how I feel messing with my prints/printers lol
Felicitaciones Adam!!! Exelente como siempre su trabajo. Saludos desde Argentina
26:00 As someone who's had 3d printers for about 12 years or so at this point. No, not really :D They spend a lot of time doing nothing these days. Now I mostly print when I actually need to, not because it's fun.
Same with me but I’ve only been printing a few years, there is no point just filling the time printing stuff you don’t need. It’s almost like saying if you have a car you need to keep it running all the time, no it’s just wasting money. Also the printer requires less maintenance if run less, so running prints for no reason is just increasing wear and wasting filament.
30:10 - Amazing moment hahahah
The "Oh no, something is wrong" -------TO----->>> "Oh! That means everything is all right!"
Great video , that sequence at 13:00 of you sketching the funnel was super nice to see!
The plate table could have been designed to be bigger than the tray, so the scraps fall into gaps around the edge. Add sides with a cleanout and it becomes its own trash bin.
This man screams ADHD and he is still successful and great to watch. He gives me hope for myself.
It was probably very difficult for him to get organized, and I'll bet being organized is one of his top priorities, he probably organizes religiously, if ADHD person starts slacking off in that regard, the downward spiral is that things pile up very quickly and once they're in a pile, procrastination begins, and more piles appear, nothing gets done...
@@dingdingdingdiiiiing Stop talking about me! 🤣
Love the Ren and Stimpy "happy, happy, joy, joy 😂
I have bought a somewhat air-tight large container and a dehumidifier from Amazon. I also have a gauge that tells you the humidity. I also have an X1C that claims the system can dry filament. I have watched you on TV for many years.
He's Doc Brown...
The shiny filaments, also known as silk do not have the same mechanical properties as normal PLA.
They are just for show, I wouldn't make anything useful from them at all. Unless it's to test how quick it breaks. Lol.
The next best thing I suppose in your case is printing with normal PLA and then spray painting the pieces with a carbon paint and then electroplate them to get that real shiny metal look.
If he's going to go through all of that extra work I would honestly go as far as using PETG filament instead as anything I've made with PLA has broken pretty easily if handled slightly rougher than nessecary. Though that might also be due to those prints being generally a bit thinner and living in the deserts of southern AZ.
You can save filament by using the Flush options in the Others menu in Bambu slicer. You can flush into infill or supports, so instead of dumping the purged filament, it uses it for stuff that doesn't show.
I highly recommend Bambu Lab's Textured PEI plate.
No glue needed and great adhesion!
I bought a Lightyear Garolite (G10) sheet for my X1C. Its phenomenal in its ability to stick to anything without glue that I've thrown at it while it's heated but release with barely a touch when cool. ABS, PLA, PETG, TPU, everything I've used so far is perfect and the surface finish on the part that contacts the build plate is perfectly smooth. It uses the Smooth PEI Plate / High Temp Plate setting in Bambu Slicer.
The textured PEI plates are just *awesome* for PLA and I wouldn't want to be without them. My recommendation would be to have two for each machine, and take the one you're not using and wash it in the sink with dish soap and a stiff plastic brush. Any time I'm having adhesion issues, that fixes it. No glue stick required.
That was my tought aswell, no glue needed on the gold pei sheet
Wish I had 1/2 of Adam’s knowledge and life experience. SUCH a good guy!
Ngl….the stimpy drop got me way more into this video than originally anticipated
Now your scraping table needs its own chute so you can scrape right off the back and into a trash can. A scoop on top of the chute would keep material from flying off across the shop. A scraper pocket on the side may keep it from migrating also. Great episode!
I wonder if he'll pipe the scraping table chute into the funnel so that there's only one printer-plastic waste bin.
Adam you're a national treasure. I recently purchased the X1 Carbon and I love watching your videos. Keep 'em coming!
I loved your excitement when attaching the poop shoot funnel. Good times
Polymaker is a US based company and they have an incredible selection of colors and they have silk pla and metallic pla.. Their prices have gotten more reasonable. About the same cost as Bambu Lab filament. A lot of their spools are card board, but you can run some electricians vinyl tape along the rims and they will work fine in the AMS.
E6000 "industrial adhesive" is my go to for long term functional prints!
oh great another 5 minute video of basic things we all do everyday, turned into a 30min video. fantastic.
I've only been 3D printing for a couple months now but one thing I've learned is with that type of build plate, don't scrape parts off it unless you have no other option! You can usually let it cool completely and they'll pop right off! You may have to flex it a little bit but if you scrape it, it usually means your z offset is too low. Scraping the plate can cause damage to the plate and you'll be replacing them prematurely.
Yeah, I cringed when Adam started talking about scraping a PEI sheet. The whole purpose behind coated flex plates is to *let the print cool* then *flex* the plate to pop off the print. I've used PLA, PETG, and TPU on PEI flex sheets with no trouble. (TIP: The trick to getting small TPU parts off a flex sheet is to remove them while they're still warm.) Only very rarely have I ever had to use a tool to remove a part, and even then, I just used a thin-edged plastic tool to get an edge lifted to start the removal process. PEI is a game changer - no glue, no scraping. A quick wipe down with alcohol between prints keeps it clean. When prints stop sticking, going over the surface with some fine sandpaper does the trick to refresh the plate.
Can I just say I find it hilarious that given all the tools on hand-so many tools!- one side of an open pair of scissors was the choice tool for opening up the cardboard box of filament
For the anodized aluminum look I would mix some resin with the pigment mixed in and paint it onto the 3d printed backing. Resin with mica powder I think would look very close to what you're looking for. OR you could use the printer to make a mold and cast the parts completely out of resin if you need super sharp edges.
Adam @12:30, "21". My brain, "Can ya do somethin' for me?"
Hey Adam you can tell the printer to just print the interface layers in that support stuff. So you print your support structure in the standard PLA or whathaveyou, all in one layer and one go and only when you come to the contact surface, which is around two layers thick or something, you switch to the special support material. It saves you special support filament, it saves a lot of purged material and it saves you time for all the changing and purging
Something that might help with the PEI sheet cleaning table is some sort of heatsink top surface to cool the plate quickly before you start removing prints. I usually use the metal chassis of our front-loading clothes drier since that is near by to my printer. For your table, maybe a heatsink with short fins, mounted with the fins down. And a blower on the side with duct to blow air between the fins. For power, use an adapter for the batteries that you use on your handheld power tools. I don't know if I explained it well...
Got me thinking about the waste bin for the boogers. Make a chute leading to a garbage bin, but then drill a hole in the bottom of the bin and attach a shop vac hose. Rig a on/off pedalfor the vac. When the boogers start to fill the bin stomp the pedal to activate the shop-vac to clear the bin.
Polyalchemy Elixir PLA will be by far the best Anodized aluminum filament for you. I tossed a small part printed in their silver to a coworker (also an engineer) and they were scared for a second because they expected that they would be catching a part of commensurate weight as though it had been made of aluminum.
The blue is a great anodized aluminum color, I've never used red, but everything I've read about red [silk] PLA is that it comes out more pinkish. I'm not sure why the blue and silver and most other colors are so vibrant and yet the red is almost pink, but it seems to be an battle between enough dye to make red and enough additive to make it shiny.
I loved watching this video, I have an Ender 3 V1, bought upgrades for it and never put them on hahahah, except for the steel nozzles which are fantastic and the glass plate and upgraded bed springs. The end where he hears the nugs go down the chute im sure EVERY creator can relate to, hearing a strange noise coming from the printer thinking it got caught on the nozzle. Im sure i'll never have any of these but i love watching Adams content.
Growing up on Mythbusters its so awesome seeing Adam being Adam. Such an inspirational person
I enjoy that the community calls them poops and you made a chute for them... you made a poop chute!
We just got an Elegoo Neptune 3 pro, and I'm starting to learn all about FDM now that I've all but given up on resin. So far so good with a few prints. But, stuff like this is what I need to see.... I already a built an enclosure for the resin one, so it will come in handy when printing ABS and maybe nylon down the road. A dryer cabinet will be on my list to build. Thank you Adam!!
Awesome build Adam! I appreciate you showing your sketching out the funnel. Definitely helps viewers like myself learn to improve their own making processes 👍
Now I know I have the right printers! Adam has the X1Cs, two of them!
I like the winder and the hot box expansion, great stuff, but a pei scraping table? I usually pull the prints off the plate, put the plate back in the printer, and then scrape it when it's in the printer... works great.
Glad to see an Anycubic machine next to the bambus. I have an x1C but my first printer was an Anycubic Predator and I wouldn't change the struggle of learning to print with a printer like that for anything.
Adam, I have been using a PEI flex plate and never had to scrape a print off. A simple flex ans the part pops right off ! EVERY TIME ..... Keep having fun ! ( from an old dog still learning new tricks ).
30:48 Silk PLA would look the best for an anodized aluminum look but it loves getting stuck inside of your nozzles. If you’re willing to compromise the look for ease of printing, any metallic ABS would look pretty good as well