Hey man. I just installed the same LEDs and PIR sensor today. The seller describes the white light as "super bright". I'd say "barely adequate" is a more accurate description. Overall I'm happy with the install, I just want to make sure others know. Also, when I ordered 10 meters, it was two 5 meter strips and two power supplies from the seller you list. This is actually a pretty nice deal even with the adhesive on back doing nothing.
I did this - great how to! I wish i wouldve paid more attention to the part about making sure you get 3M tape. I had to peel every bit of the cheap crap backing off and get a roll of 3M double sided to get it stick - that was even after installing 1/4 wooden strips for it to stick to..Also would recommend doing all soldering you can before starting install (unless you like doing it while standing on your head) Thanks again!
awesome! glad it helped you. if you can shoot up a video and link me to it when it's uploaded, I would love to see it. of not, at least report back on how it turned out. good luck
sure thing can you show me in a few pictures how you spliced the power supply to the sensor you video goes past that part pretty quick and im not the best electrician.
+Niall Swider I just cut the tip off. stripped it back 1 inch and put red to + and black to - it was pretty straight forward. I soldered them and used heatsink tubing around the two solder joints.
+stresstest so the cable from the power supply to the relay is long enough out of the box or did you have to cut it and solder in a longer cable to reach the relay sensor
+Niall Swider if so what kind of wire did you use from the power supply to the relay if the one supplied was not long enough to reach I am placing my sensor in a similar location.
Here’s a dumb question? If I do this Set-Up with the Sensor will the power supply be on 24-7 and consuming energy? Will it get hot just sitting there waiting for it to activate. I don’t mind running an actual 110v switch to the door so that I know for sure there is nothing powered on and consuming while the door is closed for extended periods of time. I just don’t know what parts to use if I go that route. Am I being paranoid?
I used the snap connectors on mine and After each connection or 90ﾟ connector my lights got dimmer so had to end up making solder joints for every connection
THANK YOU for the detailed list! By my estimate you used about 20' of 5050 LED, and it appears to be 300 LED per 5m. Have you run into any problems using a 5A power supply on that length?
Mel Pickens everything goes to the motion sense block. that's where power is distributed. you have to cut the end off of the power supply brick to do so. hope that helps.
So my safe is in my bedroom. Let's say I'm lying in my bed naked with the lights off and then need to quickly get into my safe.....will the motion sensor work in the dark? Again, I am completely naked in this scenario. I think I may want to got with magnetic switch method, but this way seems easier.
stresstest, what made you decide to go with _waterproof_ LED strips? I can't see a need for them but I thought maybe I'm missing something. I guess the extra thickness would make them stiffer and easier to mount with the silicone straps and zip ties.
Todd King I've used leds on a lot of projects and have seen how they can fall due to adhesive failure. even though I use clips here, I wanted to be sure that no matter how many years later, if they dropped there would be no chances of them shorting out on anything they may touch. the added benefit of the clear cover acts as a defused as well, lending to more even coverage and less of the led conical spots being thrown.
stresstest /// Thanks for taking the time to reply. I too have used strip LEDs on a number of projects. On some of mine the conical projection actually added to the effect, but I can see how in this case a more diffused light would be better. I guess eliminating the chance of them shorting out makes sense, however small that risk might be, even when you add in the fact that the waterproof LEDs are somewhat harder to work with.
Just curious, why didn’t you just use LED rope light and a switch? How I plan on doing mine and what I plan on using anyhow. And FWIW, I’’ll be mounting mine around the inside of the door.
stresstest Actually, yea, I did watch the video. Heard you say you went with a motion sensor, which is a nice touch but I didn’t hear you say you didn’t want to use a switch. Maybe that was when the warden was nagging me about something? 😜 But there was no need to be a donk about it. And I only asked about rope light and switch because that’s the route I’ve seen many going. Although because it too is low wattage many just leave them on like they do for under cabinet lighting. So, could even be used without a switch and left on. Not that I’d leave it on. But if it was it would also act as a low wattage dehumidifier as well. I’ll be curious to see how long the adhesive on the back of the LED strip/s lasts. My experience has been it doesn’t. Looks good though. And again, you didn’t need to be a donk about the question. I mean, if I didn’t watch the video I wouldn’t have asked. You could have simply said you didn’t want to go that route. No need to be a donk! Donk!
@@ronsorrentino6207 I wasn't trying to be rude about it, I was just curious if you had actually watched it all and I get it about the warden. The adhesive you are right about and that's why I used the silicone clips in the video. This video is just over 2 years old now and I haven't had any LED issues or problems with the clips. It's still looks exactly the same and the motion switch is still doing its job correctly. I don't like the ropes even though they are LED because they take up that little extra space and they are quite a bit heavier. I know its not a lot more space but its more than the strips I went with and I wanted the underside of each shelf lit to light below it. The ropes would have caused interference issues with items below them. Hope that clears everything up. If I missed something ask again.
It’s not hard to add a power outlet to the inside of your safe. There’s even a safe power kit out there but I forget the brand. But a quick search of power outlet kit for a safe should bring it up. I found a kit by Stack-On through Menards.com but they’ve been discontinued by the manufacturer but Menards at the time, a couple months ago, still had some in stock. Only drawback is, it’s only a 2 outlet kit. The more expensive aforementioned kit, if memory serves me correctly, is 2-4 outlets plus it has a couple USB outlets.
Shane Hatfield I've checked the permissions on the doc and they are set properly to "anyone with the link can view". try copying the link and opening in a new browser window
The USB port that's in there is rated USB 2.0 which means it's 0.5amp amps of power. I am pulling closer to 1.5 amps with all of the LEDs I'm using. in that case I would overload that circuit and burn it up. Good question though.
+Christopher Cordry There are a couple of ways you can do this. The easiest way is to buy a UPS backup and use it outside of your safe. The power you have going to the outlet in your house will go to this and this to your outlet. Go to Newegg.com and search there for part # N82E16842102135. That will fit the bill The other thing you can do is fab something up in the safe. Here is the best way ua-cam.com/video/m45RZmRPL0E/v-deo.html In his description of that video he has a link to his site. The info is there. You can use this battery for this process at the same newegg site part # 9SIA1HS1E06412
Roger Bahr since the clips are silicone you can use a wide variety of screws. I am not able to check Specifically what I used right now but I believe they were 3/8" long, but not sure of thread size. since most safes use a chalk board inside make sure whatever you pick has a coarse thread for wood, not machine threads.
How many inches of light strip did you end up running ? Im in the process of getting materials to light mine up. with shelves and around perimeter of door im looking at about 284 inches of lights. Trying to figure out what size power adapter to get ??
Bruce johnson @2:55 I discuss what size I used with plenty left over. If your planning on lighting as much as I did a 5amp supply will do the job with a safe amount of overhead so you aren't always pushing the supplies rated limit. 7.214 meters is what 284 inches is
Hey man. I just installed the same LEDs and PIR sensor today. The seller describes the white light as "super bright". I'd say "barely adequate" is a more accurate description. Overall I'm happy with the install, I just want to make sure others know. Also, when I ordered 10 meters, it was two 5 meter strips and two power supplies from the seller you list. This is actually a pretty nice deal even with the adhesive on back doing nothing.
I using Velcro to attach my leds, works like a champ and no holes
I did this - great how to! I wish i wouldve paid more attention to the part about making sure you get 3M tape. I had to peel every bit of the cheap crap backing off and get a roll of 3M double sided to get it stick - that was even after installing 1/4 wooden strips for it to stick to..Also would recommend doing all soldering you can before starting install (unless you like doing it while standing on your head) Thanks again!
Thank you for going through all the trouble to put the parts list and directions up on line. Great video, it gave me a lot of ideas for my safe.
no problem. glad it helped
Just ordered the set up pretty excited about it
outstanding video and list, thanks a lot doing my gun safe up over labor day this has made what i dreaded seem a lot more manageable
awesome! glad it helped you. if you can shoot up a video and link me to it when it's uploaded, I would love to see it. of not, at least report back on how it turned out. good luck
sure thing can you show me in a few pictures how you spliced the power supply to the sensor you video goes past that part pretty quick and im not the best electrician.
+Niall Swider I just cut the tip off. stripped it back 1 inch and put red to + and black to - it was pretty straight forward. I soldered them and used heatsink tubing around the two solder joints.
+stresstest so the cable from the power supply to the relay is long enough out of the box or did you have to cut it and solder in a longer cable to reach the relay sensor
+Niall Swider if so what kind of wire did you use from the power supply to the relay if the one supplied was not long enough to reach I am placing my sensor in a similar location.
Love the loaded mags..It looks nice thank you I'm doing the same.
Here’s a dumb question? If I do this Set-Up with the Sensor will the power supply be on 24-7 and consuming energy? Will it get hot just sitting there waiting for it to activate. I don’t mind running an actual 110v switch to the door so that I know for sure there is nothing powered on and consuming while the door is closed for extended periods of time. I just don’t know what parts to use if I go that route. Am I being paranoid?
Awesome write up, just ordered everything. Do you have multiple sets of wires coming out of the output terminals of the motion sensor?
Yes, 3 sets I believe it is
stresstest sweet, well thanks again for the awesome write up, looking forward to getting some light in there!
Excellent job!
I found the adhesive on back is worthless so I used a Electric Glue Gun and it works great....
I used the snap connectors on mine and After each connection or 90ﾟ connector my lights got dimmer so had to end up making solder joints for every connection
thanks for the tips
great video..great instructions.. thanks..
THANK YOU for the detailed list! By my estimate you used about 20' of 5050 LED, and it appears to be 300 LED per 5m. Have you run into any problems using a 5A power supply on that length?
Been almost 2 years since I posted this. No issues so far. Motion sensor still 100% as well
Hello - how did you connect the lights to the power supply - is there a connector that you used??? Thanks for posting this - it helps tremendously!
Mel Pickens everything goes to the motion sense block. that's where power is distributed. you have to cut the end off of the power supply brick to do so. hope that helps.
Sorry for any confusion, I replied to you already logged in as another channel I have. The dashcam reply is from me. Hope that helps
So my safe is in my bedroom. Let's say I'm lying in my bed naked with the lights off and then need to quickly get into my safe.....will the motion sensor work in the dark? Again, I am completely naked in this scenario. I think I may want to got with magnetic switch method, but this way seems easier.
The sensor is infrared, yes it will work
stresstest, what made you decide to go with _waterproof_ LED strips? I can't see a need for them but I thought maybe I'm missing something. I guess the extra thickness would make them stiffer and easier to mount with the silicone straps and zip ties.
Todd King I've used leds on a lot of projects and have seen how they can fall due to adhesive failure. even though I use clips here, I wanted to be sure that no matter how many years later, if they dropped there would be no chances of them shorting out on anything they may touch. the added benefit of the clear cover acts as a defused as well, lending to more even coverage and less of the led conical spots being thrown.
stresstest /// Thanks for taking the time to reply. I too have used strip LEDs on a number of projects. On some of mine the conical projection actually added to the effect, but I can see how in this case a more diffused light would be better. I guess eliminating the chance of them shorting out makes sense, however small that risk might be, even when you add in the fact that the waterproof LEDs are somewhat harder to work with.
Just curious, why didn’t you just use LED rope light and a switch? How I plan on doing mine and what I plan on using anyhow. And FWIW, I’’ll be mounting mine around the inside of the door.
Did you actually watch the video? I didn't want a switch, so it's IR motion sense automatically switched and LEDs were used.
stresstest Actually, yea, I did watch the video. Heard you say you went with a motion sensor, which is a nice touch but I didn’t hear you say you didn’t want to use a switch. Maybe that was when the warden was nagging me about something? 😜 But there was no need to be a donk about it.
And I only asked about rope light and switch because that’s the route I’ve seen many going. Although because it too is low wattage many just leave them on like they do for under cabinet lighting. So, could even be used without a switch and left on. Not that I’d leave it on. But if it was it would also act as a low wattage dehumidifier as well.
I’ll be curious to see how long the adhesive on the back of the LED strip/s lasts. My experience has been it doesn’t.
Looks good though. And again, you didn’t need to be a donk about the question. I mean, if I didn’t watch the video I wouldn’t have asked. You could have simply said you didn’t want to go that route. No need to be a donk! Donk!
@@ronsorrentino6207 I wasn't trying to be rude about it, I was just curious if you had actually watched it all and I get it about the warden. The adhesive you are right about and that's why I used the silicone clips in the video. This video is just over 2 years old now and I haven't had any LED issues or problems with the clips. It's still looks exactly the same and the motion switch is still doing its job correctly. I don't like the ropes even though they are LED because they take up that little extra space and they are quite a bit heavier. I know its not a lot more space but its more than the strips I went with and I wanted the underside of each shelf lit to light below it. The ropes would have caused interference issues with items below them. Hope that clears everything up. If I missed something ask again.
Do you have any issues with the lights randomly coming on? My lights come on at random with the door shut.
hvychvyridah83 are you using the same motion control module? Whatever it is, it's most likely defective.
Your safe came with a power outlet already mounted inside, if it did what type of safe did you get, manufacturer and model please.
Item # 784693 at costco dot com. "Sports Afield Safe 30 CuFt - 40 min Fire Protection - 59”H x 40”W x 22”D - Electronic Lock"
It’s not hard to add a power outlet to the inside of your safe. There’s even a safe power kit out there but I forget the brand. But a quick search of power outlet kit for a safe should bring it up.
I found a kit by Stack-On through Menards.com but they’ve been discontinued by the manufacturer but Menards at the time, a couple months ago, still had some in stock. Only drawback is, it’s only a 2 outlet kit. The more expensive aforementioned kit, if memory serves me correctly, is 2-4 outlets plus it has a couple USB outlets.
Awesome video and great ideas.
What do you do with the light strip at the hinge side around the hinges?
There is a recess there like there is on the left side. Same procedure on the right
Can i get info about your choice of power supply?
Yes, Its all in the google doc in the description
Great video!!! I can't get the parts list to open up.
Shane Hatfield I've checked the permissions on the doc and they are set properly to "anyone with the link can view". try copying the link and opening in a new browser window
Your safe power had USB, why use the transformer for power?
The USB port that's in there is rated USB 2.0 which means it's 0.5amp amps of power. I am pulling closer to 1.5 amps with all of the LEDs I'm using. in that case I would overload that circuit and burn it up. Good question though.
Any idea how to add backup battery power to this set up?
+Christopher Cordry
There
are a couple of ways you can do this. The easiest way is to buy a UPS
backup and use it outside of your safe. The power you have going to the
outlet in your house will go to this and this to your outlet. Go to Newegg.com and search there for part # N82E16842102135. That will fit the bill
The other thing you can do is fab something up in the safe. Here is the best way
ua-cam.com/video/m45RZmRPL0E/v-deo.html
In his description of that video he has a link to his site. The info is
there. You can use this battery for this process at the same newegg site
part # 9SIA1HS1E06412
flashlight
what size screw did you end up using
what diameter
Roger Bahr since the clips are silicone you can use a wide variety of screws. I am not able to check Specifically what I used right now but I believe they were 3/8" long, but not sure of thread size. since most safes use a chalk board inside make sure whatever you pick has a coarse thread for wood, not machine threads.
How many inches of light strip did you end up running ? Im in the process of getting materials to light mine up. with shelves and around perimeter of door im looking at about 284 inches of lights. Trying to figure out what size power adapter to get ??
Bruce johnson @2:55 I discuss what size I used with plenty left over. If your planning on lighting as much as I did a 5amp supply will do the job with a safe amount of overhead so you aren't always pushing the supplies rated limit. 7.214 meters is what 284 inches is
I made it with woodprix handbooks !
damn somebody is waiting for the chinese to invade