Identify A Good Irritrol Sprinkler Valve Solenoid | DIY Tutorial
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- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
- Learn how to test a Irritrol sprinkler valve solenoid with this step-by-step guide, DIY Tutorial. Maybe you have a zone not coming on and you want to know if the solenoid is still good or has gone bad, this video will show you how to test your Irritrol sprinkler solenoid.
To test the solenoid:
1.Cut the wire splices to access the solenoid wires.
2.Strip the wires and prepare them for multimeter testing.
3.Connect the multimeter leads to the solenoid wires and turn the dial to the Omega symbol, this is the symbol for ohms.
A good Irritrol solenoid should show 25 ohms of resistance. Use this benchmark to troubleshoot and ensure your valves are working correctly.
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A good practical vid Kelly. I also do this at the controller. Saves cutting wires at the solenoid. I unplug the controller and also remove the batteries.
Another good tip. Thank you. Yes, I usually start at the controller then go out to the problem solenoid and test there as well. Always good to get your expertise.
Been a irrigation tech for 4 years now. Been watching since I started. My experience anything between 20 And 60 ohms is a properly operating irritol solenoid. I often see 55 ohms. Verys with different timers iv noticed.
Could you discuss what amps means for an irrigation system? One time I had an issue with a valve that would pulsate on and off and I had no idea why. I saw a video that said it was the solenoid, but the multimeter said it was good ohms. I changed the solenoid anyways and then the valve worked. So I don’t understand what happened. The controller though read amps when the valve is working. So what does amps mean when a valve is working?
My understanding is, amps is the current of electricity, also current draw. It’s like flow when compared to water. In your case, something in that solenoid, or some other part of the system, could have been drawing more current than it should. I’ve heard it could also be the controller or even something with the power supply causing that to pulsate. But the solenoid is going to draw a certain amount of amps. One number to open the valve, inrush current, then one to hold it open, holding current or operating current. It can be tricky trying to figure out what was causing that. Hope this helps.
What do you mean ‘read amps’? Did you just replace the solenoid or the entire valve? I don’t check amps often, mostly ohms and volts. Pulsating is usually due to a dirty or old diaphragm.
sillynoid ?