DIY / How To: KIA Cee`d MKII - Master Cylinder Replacement - Dropp Clutch Repair - Part1 - Bildilla
Вставка
- Опубліковано 24 лип 2024
- KIA Cee`d MKII 2013
Master Cylinder Replacement - Dropp Clutch Repair
Part2
Bildilla Magasin
PART 1 : • DIY / How To: KIA Cee`...
DIY / HOW TO SWAP SLAVE CYLINDER - fix Clutch slave cylinder: • DIY / HOW TO SWAP SLAV...
Faulty clutch, or Clutch Master / Slave cylinder?
The clutch slips = Faulty clutch
You cannot get the clutch to disengage properly = defective slave or master clutch cylinder, or leaks in the system between these!
I have already replaced the slave cylinder, as it was completely destroyed. There is a video on the channel about this job too!
But after replacing the slave cylinder, the problem did not disappear completely. It was still hard to keep pressure on the clutch.
Now the master cylinder is the prime suspect! And it is much more difficult to get to, on the Cee`d mkII. I have found videos about this job on a Cee`d mkI. Then the master's is much easier to access. You really have to find your way here, and it's hard to get to!
The 1st video is about the job of getting into the master cylinder itself. Change comes in part 2.
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Defekt clutch, eller Clutch Master / Slave sylinder?
Clutchen slipper = Defekt clutch
Du får ikke clutchen til å koble fra ordentlig = defekt slave eller master clutch sylinder, eller lekkasjer på systemet mellom disse!
Jeg har alt byttet slavesylinderen, da den var helt ødelagt. Det ligger en video på kanalen om denne jobben også!
Men etter bytte av slave sylinderen, så forsvant ikke problemet helt. Det var fortsatt vanskelig å beholde trykket på clutchen.
Nå er det master sylinderen som er hovedmistenkt! Og den er mye vanskeligere å komme til, på Cee`d mkII. Jeg har funnet videoer om denne jobben på en Cee`d mkI. Da er masteren mye letter tigjengelig. Her må man virkelig lete seg frem, og det er trangt å komme til!
Den 1 av videoen, er om jobben med å komme inn til selve master sylinderen. Bytte kommer i del 2.
--------------------
Defekt clutch, eller Clutch Slave sylinder
Clutchen slurer slippers = Defekt clutch
Du får ikke clutchen til å koble fra ordentlig = defekt slave eller master clutch sylinder, eller lekasjer på systemet mellom disse!
Det finnes mange vanskelige jobber. Og jobber som krever mye kunskap. Dette er egentlig langt fra det. 2 skruer, og et rør som er skrudd fast.
Men det det var litt trangt å komme til på denne KIA Cee`d en. Jeg har gjort den samme jobben på en eldre Toyota Carina fra ca 1983. Der var slave cylinderen ennå enklere å komme til.
Det snakk om bare å demontere cylinderen, med 2 skruer. Skru av hydraulikrør / rør med bremseveske. Så montere ny slave, 2 skruer + rør. Etter på , så er det behov for å lufte cylinderen, etter samme prinsipp som man lufter bremser. En person sitter i bilen og trykker inn clurtch pedalen, en åpner lufte nippelen, og slipper ut luft og bremse veske. Så skru igjen nippelen. Så den som sitter i bilen, så slipper ut clurtch pedalen igjen. Gjenta dette til man er sikker på at det ikke kommer ut mer luft, kun bremse veske..
----------------------------------- Disclaimer! -----------------------------------------------
The videos are made by an untrained mechanic! All the videos are therefore to be regarded as my own experiences, and no conclusion. The videos show what I have done, and the result does not always have to be as desired. Sometimes things go directly wrong, and then I try to find out what went wrong, and try to set a better example so that others will not have to make the same mistake as me.
The videos were filmed by myself, and it may have been unknowingly missing to include ALL the details. I try my best to find out what I do and what I find out. But getting cameras in the right places is not always easy!
Very important!!! Do not take any chances with safety, neither your own nor anyone else's! Never work under a car, without and double security. Things can happen, so you must always have extra safety in case something should break or overturn, etc.
Working on cars poses a danger no matter what. So be aware, and if you do not feel 100% sure of the result, rather ask others to help you or double check what you have done, before you expose yourself and others to danger!
---------------------------- Social -------------------------------
Home page: www.bildillamagasin.no
Facebook: / bildilla-magasin-21561...
Instagram: / lermax_cars - Авто та транспорт
Love that you showed the issue with new part not fitting and how to fix it. Good video coverage as well. Thank you
Thank you for your feedback!
Greeting
Pål (Paul)
Good job - thanks! A tricky task on LH drive model. The RH (UK) version is a little easier as no need to remove battery/ computer and Diesel filter.
Hi mate, I agree uk is much better question is your clutch bite low? I’m changing this to see if it improves the clutch bite location
@ConnorA21 No, not so much the bite point, just issues with notchy shift, and a visible slight leak on the clutch MC near the engine bay bulkhead. Apparently a (quite) common issue with this otherwise pretty solidly engineered car. (2012, 1.6 CRDi).
Yes, it sounds much easier on RHD cars :)
Tack för båda videoklippen! väldigt hjälpsamt då jag är i samma situation med min kia ceed och svårt att hitta klipp med denna årsmodell.
God kveld!
Ja det er få videoer om Ceed. Nå ble vel denne bilen ikke solgt over hele verden, så det er vel Europa stort sett. Men pene biler, med mye utstyr!
Hilsen
Pål
Thanks!😊
Glad the video comes in handy! :)
Good luck!
😀
Very informative, thanks. Would you happen to know if an UK's market Mk2 cee'd would have the same layout of parts, given that the clutch is on the right side? I popped the bonnet the other night to check and I noticed that the brake fluid reservoir isn't on the same side as on your video, which implies that the rest would probably be fitted on the opposite side as well?
Good evening!
Very good question!
I have not been away in these cars with right-hand drive.
But as you point out, the brake booster and master cylinders must probably be on the right side.
I assume that the slave cylinder is in the same place as on a left-hand drive car? I have a video on replacing this unit as well.
It would be very unnatural if the engine was mounted differently on the 2 versions.
It should be possible to run pipes between master and slave, around the engine. It just gets longer. But it may happen that there are different part versions of the master cylinder? I would double check if you were considering ordering parts.
Greeting
Pål (Paul)
@@bildillamagasin Hi there. It occured to me that it was a rather silly question on my end. It seems obvious, at least now, that having the clutch pedal on the right side of the car means that it must be linked to the master cylinder directly. So, on an UKs car you can find it between the brake fluid reservoir and the turbo charger (mine's a 1.6 diesel), unlike on yours, behind the battery. The slave cylinder is fitted to the side of the gearbox as it moves the fork to release the cluth from the flywheel, I think, but thats where you can find it on my car at least. Thanks
@@lzkams Hello again
I changed the slave cylinder on my car earlier too. Mine was completely defective.
Watch video here:
DIY / HOW TO SWAP SLAVE CYLINDER - fix Clutch slave cylinder: ua-cam.com/video/c83CLajezHU/v-deo.html
Greeting
Paul
What was the issue? Did you have a leak in the cylinder or was your pedal getting close to the floor from slop in the linkage? It seems kia has designed this clutch poorly with no adjustment on the pedal so the wear on the rod creates enough play that the clutch will no longer fully release.
Hello.
With me, it was difficult to disconnect the clutch.
First I changed the slave cylinder, which was defective. It helped a little. Then I replaced the master cylinder. then it got even better. But as you say, there should have been an adjustment option!
Greeting
Pål (Paul)
@@bildillamagasin just changed mine. It was incredibly difficult to turn the new master cylinder completely so that it's locked into the firewall. My 24mm wrench was beginning to round the hex flats on the new part. Not sure why they couldn't have just used studs that bolt to the firewall. Odd engineering in a few places on this car...
It did seem to resolve the issue I had (same as you, I had very notchy shifting).
If this issue comes back I'm thinking I will make a new threaded pin that goes from the slave cylinder to the clutch fork with adjustment there.
I alla fall, glad midsommar.
@@bildillamagasindid it improve the clutch bite location as my clutch bite is near the floor
How did you make it fit?
Hello.
I used a metal file, to take off a bit on the edge. Had to take it slow but sure. A little at a time, and try if it fits.
It's a shame that the part had such a bad fit, but it worked as intended!
Greeting
Pål (Paul)
ok tack
Tank you! :)