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Block Machining Is DONE But The Camshaft DOESN'T FIT... Can We Fix It?
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- Опубліковано 25 тра 2024
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We're back to work on @ScannerDanner 's 483ci Big Block Mopar Stroker, but we've run into a problem with the cam bearings (surprise surprise!)
Can we fix it?
Be sure to check out the entire build series here: www.youtube.co....
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#bigblockmopar #cnclathe #customenginebuild
FlexiSpot Amazing Brand Day Sale! Don't miss out! FlexiSpot provides all kinds of standing desks to meet your demands. If you prefer a Rock-Solid Stability standing desk, then The E7PLUS is your top choice. Use my code “24BDYTB50” for an extra $50 off on this amazing desk! You can also use ''24BDYTB30' for $30 OFF on E7, E7 pro, and E7L! Don't miss out on designing your dream setup with FlexiSpot! US: bit.ly/4bAkibH CA: bit.ly/3UU9waA
One way, and idk if it's the proper way, to part something in a lathe; is to hold a screwdriver in the center hole and send your cutter all the way through. I've also seen the hack saw method with the lathe turning very slowly.
What ever happened to making a cutter/clearancer out of the old camshaft
Watch some @CuttingEdgeEngineering
Swaging also affects 360°, so you are adding clearance where its not needed, scraping only adds additional clearance to the needed area. Big Block Chevy's that run hard also have cast iron core shift issues. Using coated bearings... forcing a cam in will remove the coating on the high spots... or, there's always Prussian blue. Scraping offers superior results, done right. Bore scope might be handy, picked one up off A**zon myself & fix-n to maybe use it in the near future scrapin cam bearings. Video of the work on the aluminum cylinder heads you did impressed me, ending in ice cream even better.
You’re doing it wrong, sorry
"Listen to what I'm thinking, not what I'm saying". That made me chuckle.😂 I hope you guys realise how entertaining you are and how much your videos are appreciated. 🙂👍
That was the quote of the year!
I need a t-shirt for my wife that says that! 😂
You’re a lucky boy. Man I miss my Dad. He’s been gone 8 months. Warms my heart, watching how you two work and laugh together
Sorry to hear of your loss. These two are pretty darned awesome for a little diversion. God bless!
There was mention of two guys doing a one man job. I like the fact that a father and son work together to get the job done right.
I just commented on another post. But the family dynamics and the real world knowledge is on point. There's times where the absolute proper way may be different. But in life you have to make compromises and they do it right, especially when they have to make a compromise. The stuff we did on nuclear reactors In submarines. would make people go crazy if they knew😂😂😂😂😂
Ya, better outcomes are possible, but at twice the time taken. Good work is never accomplished quickly.👌
Polish the tight journal on cam is what we did back in the day
The father and son dynamic that y’all share is refreshing. Complete opposite of the dynamic that Orange County Choppers had. Don’t ever change what you’re doing 👍
Agreed Short! I had a strong dislike for OCC because of its father son dynamic. It was un-necessary and WAY overdone, and got very tiresome quickly.
Well done Jim and son! Well done....
OCC isn't even in the same league as Jim and Nick, cause Jim n' Nick are genuinely cool people.
@@Sunspot-19yes I agree they are super cool and very down to earth
I was lucky enough to meet them at PRI convention last fall. Needless to say it was the highlight of my trip that week. Much love for the J.A.M.S.I. family
@@doggfriendly Genuinely good folks. That is becoming more and more of rarity these days.
I dont think the cleaning guy likes drugs and roids that much so we should be safe.
it’s good to see the cleaning guy taking on more responsibilities
He’s a real go getter!
😆
only if you can get him off the phone
New fellow eh?
@@JAMSIONLINE you should keep him around!! lol
The best thing about this was watching the father, son relationship and the wisdom of dad. Not taking away from you Nic, because you're one smart cookie too. Thanks for a great video! I was surprised to jump in here and read in the comments how common this is, and what people do to fix this problem.
I really appreciate a video of this length focused so intensely on just one aspect of engine building. It demonstrates what you are trying to accomplish, why it is so important to get it right, and the skill and ingenuity which are brought to bear when things don’t fall into place as they are supposed to. Well done!
Appreciate the comment! Thanks!
Let's just comment on how CLEAN the cleaning guy keeps the shop.
I hope some younger guys (and girls) are watching this and can see that machine work does not have to be knuckle-dragging in a dungeon for a shop. I like your approach to getting things right!
"Listen to what I'm thinking, not what I'm saying" Classic quote, I'm stealing it for my own use! BTW, love your videos!
I remember Uncle Tony’s Garage talking about how he re-uses cam bearings if at all possible during rebuilds, and now it makes sense because he’s a Mopar guy.
And UTG has a video on why comprehensive deburring and polishing a block helps prevent stress risers and cracking.
UTG is a joke
@@MacPoopYet he used to build 426 Hemi Chrysler nitro drag race engines for years running the nitro circuits back in the 80s .
@@peteloomis8456 He was a joke 40yrs ago in the nitro circuit too
@@MacPoopNo when they were racing they were actually competitive enough to beat well known race teams .
I'm going to give you a TIp as someone gave me ... Take a small rod that fits the oil hole in the bearing or a two-stage hole that fits the case and then lower down one that fits the bearing hole. When you put the cam bearing in the rod will fall in the holes if you have them correctly aligned. I use this technique when I build the engine from the case.
The pride you guys take in every single job shows. Thank you for showing us the right way to run an automotive machine shop!
Nice job fella's ! The word "accomplishment" says it all , thumbs up to the cleaning guy !
Thanks for watching!
I remember reading an article by Rick Ehrenberg, the tech editor at Mopar Action magazine, where he said that Chrysler did line hone the cam bearings after they were installed.
Unfortunately Mopar Action magazine has gone belly up I just seen in a very recent video on UA-cam because the investors decided to pull out because they were mostly selling the magazines on book shelves at news stands and at Walmarts book stands and not many were being sold plus a lot of the car oriented material now is being streamed on UA-cam or other platforms and people seem to rather do this than buy a magazine or magazine subscription and actually read the content which I like to read because I enjoy reading . I had bought a Mopar Action magazine from a Walmart book stand & was going to subscribe like I did many years ago 90s then it had gone under but now I'm glad I didn't because some people were saying that they had paid for a magazine subscription just now and didn't get a refund & got burned . UTG just did a video of him and the guy just after the announcement of the magazine going under again I had seen this but I haven't yet sat down to watch it because it's relatively a long video but will get to it once I'm cought up on my own projects lol . I do know that some engine builders use cam bearing knives to scrape the cam bearing if the cam fits tight especially on the Chrysler engines but I've built quite a few of them & yet had any problems with the cam bearings fitting so tight the cam won't turn & I feel that part of the problem is that the cam bearings aren't being made to quality spec standards probably because they are probably made in China now & quality control has dropped just like what's happening with a lot of flat tappet hydraulic and solid cam shafts and lifters that aren't ground correctly or the steel used is too soft because of improper heat treating for hardness that we are seeing & hearing about quite often now with cam & lifter failures even when using the correct amount of zinc added to the oil .
@@peteloomis8456 I ran automotive machine shops back in the 70's and no matter whose cam bearings we used there were always alignment problems. And it was always the #2,3or4 just as shown in this video. This was long before China made stuff.
This is something I was wondering about. Plus after a couple hundred good hours of running the engine I understand the block kind of falls out of spec with all the irregular concentrates of heat and stress. After this time it is stable and candidate for remanufacturing. Resulting in a better engine than bran spanking new.
If you had needed that second swaging tool to be a tiny tad bigger for a little more clearance, you could simply have heated it up a bit with a heat gun and pulled it through again. I'm sure it would have expanded about the right amount with a modest heating.
This is an interesting idea!
I was taught a long time ago to take a good cam (not going to be used) and put it on the Bridgeport and endmill all way down in a straight line past all the journals. Your basically making the cam a cutter. Stick it in, rotate one turn and pull out. It takes off all the high spots. Some guys have been doing this for years and years and thats how they correct the issue and thats how i was shown when i ran into my cam not turning for crap. Now some will have a problem w this but some badass motors i know of have been done this way as well as street driven stuff.
Many moons ago in high school auto shop class I rebuilt my 225 slant 6. The cam was very tight on that one, too. The shop teacher used sections of old piston ring as a scraper on the tight bearings.
While I’m busy and can’t stay to watch this, I’ll watch later. This channel is rapidly becoming my favorite on UA-cam. The cleaning guy is my hero lol! He certainly knows his onions. For those of you who are younger, that term means he is a wealth of knowledge!
Thank you!!
Agreed on quickly becoming my favorite channel.
No doubt! Definitely in my top five!
@@stephencooper5040 Yeah, the family dynamic the real world expertise just hits.
This talk is dangerous. Give him too much praise and cleaning guy is going to start walking around like he owns the place.
This is going to put his boss in a difficult position.
You guys are better produced show than most of the rubbish on TV, keep it up and I love how the traditional old school knowledge and ways are being mixed with new methods to have a best of both worlds approach
They go at a collective rate then pop in the occasional slow mo effect to knock it home. I appreciate this.
Thanks! We really appreciate it!
I had a mercedes m112 " iirc" inline 6 from a 1966 s250 with efi, and the cam towers were wasted as was the camshaft journals. Had the camshaft spray welded, and then i made ampco45 bearing bronze inserts on my old monarch, pressed them in, then had the head line bored and honed. Cam shaft speeds are typically perfectly fine with ampci brinze and it's way easier to line hone bearings than fight with press fit, line bore,,finish size. As for the drill bit breaking, make yourself a setup tool for your collet holder and indicate the drill bit in on x and z with a indicator on the chuck. Been there done that got the tshirt
for parting heavy parts put a round bar stock in your boring bar holder or tailstock and run it in the bore of the part to part off, this allows you to close the door, and keep the parted part from dropping
1:24 Nick’s Garage had the very same issue with cam bearings many many times and what he ended up doing is taking a stock camshaft and scor the bearing surfaces turned the camshaft into a reamer and rotating the camshaft in the bare block till he could get the bearings to fit. And Nick is a Mopar guy too
I was reading comments to see if anyone mentioned that before I did, but I had various old cams in my shop that I ground an edge in the journals to make a reamer. I even had a guy bring me a 383 Mopar that he already had the short block together and couldn't get the cam in, I used my "reamer" and the cam went right in, I told him, ALWAYS put the cam in first!
That'll work fine. I've used my pocket knife.
@@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259 Yea, me too, and bearing scrapers, that can be very time consuming on a really bad one, good for just one little tight spot though.
Don't cringe but I have used the old cam to make a fine cut reamer to remove a little metal from the interfering part of the new bearing. I had done this on small block Fords and small block Chryslers. It worked well if you just went slow and careful. These motors were generaly run hard and never experienced any problems. I like your broach system better, more precise. Once an experienced builder told me, if the old cam bearings were good to not hot tank the block. Just clean with elbow grease and solvent since the hot tank would destroy installed cam bearings.
I wondered if anyone else did that, and here you are! Used that method in the 70's on big block MoPars with an old cam/reamer with a timing gear for a handle and never had any problems. I learned it from someone long, long gone. It was easy to make and quick to use and never removed much metal but did the job.
Nick’s Garage on UA-cam has done the same thing as you have Craig Hansen on Mopars
Buick 322 cam bearings are different sizes also and the cam will not fit. Some machine shops used a reamer from an old cam; some align honed and some ground the journals to fit the bearings. All methods worked with no issues until one shop used a bent cam. Good thing I ran the oil pump on the engine stand to find low oil pressure and the gush of oil from the center bearings.
I watched a couple of these and it’s so cool you guys work together your father is very intelligent and has a lot of experience well you both do now I’m a 62yr old man I look at my father with a lot more respect these days and wished I had more time with him good luck for the future
What a team!! I remember when you guys first started your channel, you have come a long way and I am very happy for your success, you deserve it 👍
Cleaning guy needs a raise!!
I was taught to do the #1 and #5 cam bearings, install the cam, check it for run out at #3. That would give you an idea of whether any issues were because of the block, or a bad cam machining process. If everything checked at that point, pull the cam, install #3 bearing, and check cam fit and free spin again. If ok, repeat for #2, and #4. This is how i did it in all the small blocks Mopars I've built, and I haven't had any issues. I was advised that a wheel cylinder hone was the solution to tight bearings.
The self centering broach they made is much, much nicer than a wheel cylinder hone .
@@verteup and risks exactly what they discussed, pulling the bearing out. Having the CNC like they have, back when I was taught how to do, it was not an option. Usually just enough to polish the protective coating was the key. And worked every time.
@@Mrsnichols1965 they're also not doing guess work. They want a diameter in a certain spec range. Sometimes guess honing ain't good enough.
@@verteup no one is guess honing if they have calipers or micrometers. Even more to the point, no one is damaging or obscuring oil passages if a hone is used. A broach pushes material, which may not be desirable if the bearing has chamfered oil holes. So, you do what you feel works, and I'll live with my success.
Having the tools and the skill to fabricate additional tools is priceless.
In shop class the first thing they instructed was the two most important tools are a file and a hammer. It's that from there you can make more tools and eventually it snowballs into a successful operation. So there was a movie in that class.They made a rifle. A blacksmithing operation. Lots of hammering. Lots of filing.
@@jamespell8091 My years as a machinist placed the need for tool making on the front burner. Making a specialty cutter was common. Regrinding a mill cutter saved a great deal of time and money as some cutters are stupid expensive. All that takes is ingenuity and imagination, along with the other skills we already possess.
Not your typical Dad & Dave situation, very interesting, informative but of your comments got stuck with me , " things I've been doing WRONG all these years", a very harsh word to use weather it be towards yourself & not that you did but towards someone else, I myself have used extensively in the past & have learnt over the years that it puts people off or in a state of limbo so I started to say " not right " , not quite right or not correct. So in short I have found the outcome much more rewarding for others & beneficial in business workings . Thank you guys .
My family had a Corvette-only sales, service, parts department, and body shop. This comment is about the machine shop that we used, they had built a small block Chevy engine that was fully dressed, with heads, intake, carb, water pump, and distributor, and had it sitting on an engine stand by the door. One day we were picking up a block and the owner said to my brother, if you can pick up that engine (the one on display) and carry it out the door he could have it. So my brother walked over, picked the motor up, walked out the door, and set it down in the back of his truck. Immediately the owner started crying that he was just kidding and that he didn’t mean it, despite everyone that was in the office calling him out on it. He got his guys to get the motor out of my brother’s truck and we never used that company again and as the story spread, other people stopped using them as well. I’m not saying he went out of business because of us, we wouldn’t wish that on anyone, we’re not that type of people, but he was closed less than a year after the incident.
😊, I use to carry a short block. That's why I ruined my back.
@@2nickles647 My brother did the same, he’s had to get both of his hips replaced and his right knee replaced from lifting heavy weights. Whereas I struggled with lifting a cast iron head.
I've never seen this done to fit cam bearings!! That's awesome!!!
When you’re turning on a CNC lathe….anytime you change your speed or feed or both, it will affect the size your cutting.
The faster you go across the surface , the less shallow your tooling grooves are which results in a larger O.D. The slower you go across a surface, the deeper your tooling grooves which results in a smaller diameter. Same goes with the tool nose radius of your insert…smaller radius makes smaller tooling grooves (also known as cusps).
This is always been a problem with big mopar. I kno that u aren’t supposed to alter the bearings in any way but I’ve actually had to emery them down to get a cam to free up so it would spin free. Did this many times
You're the one!
The swedge or burnish tool idea was brilliant. A little take it or leave it advice. Your CNC probably has a feed-rate override. Maybe something like a rheostat knob or a up/down button. You can slow rapid traverse during set-up. Creep up to work-piece. Lessen the pucker factor.
Also, your lathe probably has mutliple on screen read-outs. Location of tool, etc. A 'distance to go" read out is useful when setting up. A 'how far until next line of program' distance. If distance to go reads 3.00 inches in Z axis and your 1.00 inch from work piece, you'll know there's a problem.
Also, when setting up work as you did here, fairly close tolerance, allow for two finish passes. Say, mild steel, leave .030. Take half first pass. Mic and offset down remaining pass. Two equal passes allows for equal tool pressure. Many factors determine tool pressure. Size of work, distance from chuck, etc. Ok, good job. Thanks.
People need to quit teasing the cleaning guy about his hands shaking it's rude and not funny
That Monza in the background CRIES OUT FOR LOVE!
Here here!
The tight cam bearing(s) always show where they're tight, and it's rarely in the full circumference. This is a very modern approach to an age old problem. We use bearing knives and abrasive flapper wheels on a long shank to correct the problem. We also flapper wheel the bearing housings as Chrysler used a rock and cold chisel to machine them in the first place.
Back in the day, we took a old cam, and milled a partial flat, at about a slight angle to the centerline of the cam, to get something similar to a single flute, on a reamer, on the camshaft journals, then sharpened the cutting edge.
Looking back, not sure it was right, but it worked…
41:30 chuck up a brass or aluminum rod in your tailstock and insert it into the hole in the part. When you part it off, the rod will catch it and keep it from falling into the chip tray.
Now that was a great job....love the way you executed that one. That's what separates an engine shop from and engine builder. Thank you for a great video
So I'm not a mechanic and I'm not a machinist but this one concept I understand when you run the engine and bring it up to temperature those clearances are going to get tighter.
Thanks for a great video.
The man to man, man-machine interface is amazing. Thank you for so much instruction/absorption! God bless.😊
When I was a zone rep for Chrysler the story of after installation cam boring was common. I have not watched the video yet but another truism was that the shop manual was off 0.001 for the number 4 bearing and always had been.
We had tooling plates that set the distance between the crank and the cam tunnel and tooling that would align either the cam tunnel bores or the bearings exactly. We could overbore for larger than the small Chrysler bearings or for roller bearings and adjust for main align bores
we could also od bore the cam journals so we could feed from a not bottom of the bearing location
Now to watch the video and see what you came up with cheers
To take on a machine like that cold turkey, you are hardly an idiot . Nice work !
I remember back in the day working in a machine shop, having cam bearing installation issues with early LS engines and FE Fords. The LS engines were really tight and the FE's were very large diameter and thin.
Congratulations on the new Haas CNC lathe. I love the Constant Surface Speed where it automatically speeds up as it gets closer to the center. We have three Haas mills and one Haas lathe and it seems like they are the go to brand now. And you are right when you said DON’T leave the chuck key in the Chuck. I know of a guy who did that and as soon as he turned the lathe on it opened his chest up and killed him instantly.
First rule I was taught was that chuck wrench is ALWAYS either in your hand or in its holder.
I remember having the same type of interaction with my dad when we we shade tree'in on our farm equipment. This was fun to watch, you two are very blessed to have the (well I'll just say it like I see it), love and respect that you have for each other. We came up with some pretty unsophisticated solutions about 1 or 2 o'clock in the morning occasionally. Of course we couldn't even spell CNC. I'm 75 now, and I still miss him.
I to worked with my dad. And what we always do is take an old cam and ta file and make a cutter and basically a boring tool. It works every time. Results are always bang on. Try it.
Best advice I’ve seen on this subject is Nick installing one bearing at a time and trying the cam each time, that lets you know what bearing is tight. My machinist polished the cam journal which is easier to do on a lathe, than honing out the bearings in the tunnel. My ghetto ass took an old cam and cut a groove in each journal, when I put in bearings I run that cam through first to clearance each bearing before cleaning and installing my cam. I also learned on mopars to always install the cam first so I can clean the oil passages (after bearing work) before assembly.
For years, I have heard of this problem of misaligned cam bearing journals misaligned. Ford FE, Buick 215 V8, Cleveland, now Dodge B/RB is on the list. Clever solution, well done. Here comes the avalanche of orders for cam bearing tooling.
Many years ago, I fought this issue on a 240 LA rebuild for days. Having a lathe, and thinking of this solution would have saved a lot of time.
my 440 block had the same cam issue . It was explained to me that from the factory ,many blocks had core shift . when the factory was building the engines ,they used a cam bearing cutter to relieve the bearings . It looked like a cam that had angle slices cut into the cam journals. install it and twist . my machinist took care of it for me.
Thanks… love the fact your showing off the CNC lathe 😊
Thanks for watching!
I’m hoping to make some of these general machining operations fit well into the channel as we learn! Glad you enjoyed!
love that cam bearing installer im so old school the hammer and hope it fits modisoperandi
It’s pretty nice!
These are the kinds of things that show a person why you want a veteran engine builder to work on your engine. I know some people would say, "just slap that cam in there, it will wear itself in". But the time spent to do it right will make perhaps years of difference in the life of that engine. Chrysler seems to do a lot of things that make you scratch your head. As a veteran CNC man now retired, I can honestly say, after years of doing CNC work, you will still be finding more you need to learn. And not all the learning can be found in a manual.
You guys have much more experience with mopar's than I do, however, I have built probably 20 small blocks big blocks and slant sixes. The only blocks that gave me cam tunnel trouble were the slant sixes.
You guys did a real good job of sorting out the cam bind. Excellent work fellas,and like anything,time on that CNC will make you better at it.
I watch you guys at night. You're therapeutic for me thanks!
I've built several big block Chryslers and they almost all had tight cams. The first one was a back yard build and I spun the cam in pretty forcefully and then hand scraped and polished the tight bearings where they shined up. Slow tedious process and I didn't like that so I made me a tool from an old cam on the next one. Used a cutoff wheel on a Dremel tool and ground a diagonal cut across the 3 middle journals. I ground them on an angle into the journal to form sort of a "blade". Lube it up and gently turn it in with a wrench with just a slight pressure in. Sometimes they make a bit of shavings but usually just a smidge in the groove. Seems to make a nice finish on the bearing without scratching it up. I did take my time making the grooves and cleaned them up to a smooth blade. It works very well and fast too with no special tools. I think I've used it 4 times so far.
Many time I've had to carve out the cam bearings to make the can fit it's called core shifting. Some people have made camshafts, a old camshaft that's straight and made it into a cam bearing cutter. And we would punish the bearings out Emery cloth or Brillo pad
When parting, normally just break it off by hand, or hold a small bar like an allen key in the hole when cutting the last to pick the piece up.
Think of it this way. You have a hole past your cutoff length.
Any rod , wooden dowel ECT, will support it on part off . Use to part off 10" id 12" od bushings
Using tailstock also. Great Work Men.
I can't say I have done as many as you, and I'm sure you're right, but I have been building mopar big blocks for a long time. Probably done 5 sets of cam bearings, no issues. They definitely were not reamed afterward at the factory. My 3 friends that have engine shops , one a mopar guy, never mentioned it either.
That's awesome that you guys got a cnc lathe. I know the learning curve is rough, I've been through it. I actually program and operate a cnc Haas vf2yt mill. I know it's a little different than the lathe but the control is basically the same. Just remember that the overrides on the control are your friend when you're running a new program. When I'm running a new program I'll usually slow down the rapid override to 5% at times and slow down the feed % to 10%. Like I said the overrides are your friend. Just remember that you should keep a finger glued to the feed stop button and that you can slow down the rapid movements and slow or speed up the feed and speed independently in 10% increments and press the 100% button to return the feed or speed back to the originally programmed speed or feed. Don't feel bad when things go wrong, I've messed up my fair share of cutters and parts lol.
Fascinating to watch the process, especially from a guy that has mono vision. Loving my "suck, squeeze, bang, blow" mat you designed. Wife Laura started to comment when I placed it at my computer, then decided to just say "glad you like it". She is so smart.....
Back about 40+ yrs ago, I had a who knows how many miles on a SBC, it had been running fine for years, when, after a 130 mile blast to machine shop(of all things), the 331 SBC apparently had a cam bearing spin slightly. Naturally, the oiling to the pushrods and top end was adversely affected. I took the easy road, and just sold the car. It was a 69 el Camino I had owned for 10+ yrs. Sad to see it go that way, but I was over the idea of 'throwing good money after bad!' Core shift after huhdreds of thousands of miles....?? Love the channel, Nicolas and Jim! PS. Congrats on the baby to all!
Thanks!!
Core shift is something that happens when sand cores shift during the casting process (particularly when pouring the molten metal and as it resolidifies). not during the running of an engine or over its life/cycles. Molded sand cores with a special coating are inserted into the actual mold (cope/drag) and form a negative if you will…they are the places where you don’t want metal going inside the outer walls of the casting. They form the passageways and cylinders and such, the hollows.
So warping/seasoning/aging might be better terminology for the movement of metal after running an engine long term!Yet still I got what you meant! 👍🏻
Outstanding work way to think outside of the box. I helps when you have the right tools available.
My first attempt at a cam bearing install revealed the last bearing was way too tight, so an old engine builder taught me how to turn the old camshaft into a cutter. Worked well, motor still runs well!
Crude, but it works when you have nothing else available is to scrape with a sharp straight-edge. Gotta do it slow. When you try to turn the cam and it's tight, it leaves shiny spots where the material needs to be scraped. Or, take the old cam and bang on it from as many angles as you can to "swage" the bearings. That works(sometimes) too.
Excellent job guys. I think the more you use the lathe the easier it will get. Thanks for posting.
Love watching you guys it takes me back when i was a young boy watching my grandfather in his shop he was also a machinist
I use to use an old cam and make a cutter out of it when I had tight bearings but really never had much problem with them...
Great idea. Us mopar guys have fought this for years
I stand the block up rear down and utilize gravity when fitting the cam journals into respective bushings
That is a lot harder than LS cam bearings. That hydraulic tool you have is pretty cool.
Once again, great video, get that cnc lathe to work and make multiple sets of those swages and sell them. mopar builders everywhere will buy them.
This is the trade I wanted to do when I finished school but never got the opportunity, ended up a boilermaker for the last 30 years (welder/Fabricator in Australia).
Unfortunately engine machine shops are a dying thing in Australia and its difficult to find a good one.
Please keep up the content, its really good, and don't leave out the tractor stuff, as a farm kid I can appreciate buying a $500 tractor then spending 15k for something worth 10...... but a least you know you have a good tractor in the end with no computers and electronics to hold you up
Nice job. I appreciate the collaboration and father son banter. Both of you are fortunate to work with each other, I hope you appreciate it because it’s truly special. The TL2 is a great addition to the shop. I have a TL1 in my home shop and it gets used more than any other machine. Cheers from Florida’s Space Coast.
Good job on figuring it out. My Dad and worked together at a tube bend shop, one of the types of jobs we had was pulling a ball through the side wall of a tube to make a smooth transition for a T's or a Y's for Boeing 747 and 777. Dad was the tool and die maker, I just made the oxygen lines.
Cleaning guy was joking about rolling the greased swage tool through gritty grunge. It reminded me that in some of the old magazines years ago, some guys took Scotchbrite to brand new rod and main bearings to “clean them up” before assembly!
Good thing is 000 and 0000 scotchbrite will not remove material.
Hey Nick most of the time when you part off a piece of heavy stock like that put a smaller diameter rod in the drill chuck and move it up so its in the center hole of the part and when it drops off it wont fall and damage anything
f57:11 Or, Make the individual to size for each bearing and then make spacers to fit in between each broach so you could build a "stack" and pull them all at once. More flexible that way, some would call it "custom"! Great job, excellent team work. 👍
Hi Guys,
May be if have a look at a local Australian lathe worker it may help you a little.. Curtis is not a CNC worker but his lathe work is rite up there. Cutting Edge Engineering is his U Tube channel. Cheers keep up the good work.
I'm glad you mentioned it, because I was wondering about it pulling the bearing through.
I keep a babbitt bearing scraper in my machine shop to use in this situation. Sometimes the side you push on distorts the leading edge of the bearing. And that's even using a BHJ cam bearing installation tool kit.
ScannerDanner made a couple payments on that lathe! Jim, you and Nick are an amazing team!!
What about measuring the clearance of each cam journal and grinding (polish) the camshaft journal to fit?
You could, but it’s not necessarily the best solution. Think about this: the tight spot in the bearing itself may not be a uniform circle. It might just be a .5” section of the circle that is tight.
By using our tool, we’re pushing that out, and hopefully making a nice round hole when it’s finished. If you polish the cam down to fit, you now have a round cam in a not round bearing.
That was interesting to watch. The broach worked out really nice. Make sure you label them so you know which one is which. Now you have another tool at your disposal.
Aligned broached is borderline genius
Pretty brave to be stumbling thru you first time doing CAD/CAM for the entire world to see! Hats off to you!
WOW !!! You guy’s are AMAZING .. Old school and New school .. CHEERS to you both .. interesting videos .. 👍👍
Last comment I promise.
The material you are broaching can rebound behind the tool so it can be smaller than the broach size. It can also actually work harden the material.
We used to do it with balls through the piston pin bore
I dig that cam bearing installer! Never saw one like that. I got the old LIsle beat n greet one. Its easy to go crooked with them.
I used a bearing scraper to clean the high spots on the bearing so the cam would spin freely.
Thanks for another great video you two, dad and son.
It was amazingly interesting and informative and entertaining.
I have been with your channel for about three to four weeks now and I absolutely love it!!!!!! You both are so inspiring and talented to watch and come up with ideas like on this Chrysler cam bearings.
The CNC machine was so very nice to have to make the tool. My compliments to you both.
I agree with dad that it is good where it is and would not try resizing it more. Believe it will run just fine where it is. End of that chapter!!!!!!!!!!
Will be anxious to see more work done on this motor and eventually see it run-yeah!!!!!!!!
I really enjoyed watching what you did and how it came out. Enjoying your channel.
Your CNC machine is paying for itself.
Looking forward to the next video. Thanks for everything!!!!
The retired Air Force veteran.
Spring cut, when you rough cut the part and then perform a finish pass it’s been my experience to leave it 001-003 oversized you can always make another pass or use some emery cloth to finish to size. If your lathe is a little worn out the slightly less pressure on your finish pass might be closer than you expected. The lathe in this video is new so you have less wear and your cut is still precise.
Use a feeler gage when setting up the edge of the part so you can make adjustments and know if you are too loose or too tight without damaging the part or your tool edge.
Appreciate this channel quite a bit: the cleaning guy is coming along, I've been watching since his broom days and good to see he's picking up on CNC work -- maybe let him use the computer (the first episodes, I thought he really was a cleaning guy ...)
Now that you have a flipping TL2 in the shop you can make a spring loaded pin locator (think depth gauge) that has a relief at the pin tip, make it long enough to go through the block and as both holes align it will very slightly "snap" down as they come together or have a dial gauge on the pin top to visually see when it goes in, you would have to make a few pins for different engines but that way you WILL KNOW those oil holes are lined up just right.
genious little tool that cam bearing installer and that swedger tool ya'll made
Nice job on fitting the cam to bushings correctly
I certainly would not have bothered 'swedging' the other bearings, as it spins nicely with the two already done. A great video of a simple solution to a problem. Well done