Theres this guy who knows these cars inside out. Look up Beaver's Hobby. My motor was running way too hot. Showed me to lube up everything and trim some plastic on the diff so that the wheels spin freely after letting go of the throttle. Among other tips.
Yeah I went through 2 full sets of parts trying to replicate that not gonna lie i thought it was a myth. Could not replicate what was shown in Beaver's video to smoothen the drive train, locked both diffs, trimmed and sanded all the plastic, ran it for hours and hours to smoothen it, used the correct grease afterwards. The wheels simply will not spin after letting go of the throttle if you have some key piece of information im missing that would be amazing but its very hard to believe after how many attempts and parts
Honestly looks to me like some user error on stripping the screws. As far as the play you need to shim the ball rods with spacers. Which is typical for rc’s. You can use teflon motor shims are any thin washer that fits. You can put either in the front side or the rear side. That will adjust some caster and reduce or induce bump steer.
I ordered to full metal kits for WLToys buggy's, and encountered a lot of issues that couldn't be solved. So yeah, I'm not 100% sure, but I think it's trash indeed.
I just ordered the 284131. What's the screw quality like? Are they soft and easy to strip out like most wltoys? Should I order a screw pack as well when upgrading?
You might want to get a kit, just in case. The plastic will strip out first. Stay away from the cheap metal upgrades. Stay with stock parts or go with the Kyosho mini z stuff. Good luck and cheers.
Thanks bud. I have watched and subbed to Beaver. His info is awesome. In the middle of a move, but more to come on the little green machine. Thanks for the sub and for watching! Cheers!
you dont need to tear the whole backside apart xD but nice vid 😄 PS. i know this cus ive had 3 years experience wth the k989 and i also have the 284131 😊
Best aluminum parts are shock towers and knuckles that's it carbonfiber chassis does not have the cut outs like the original so the suspension doesn't work as good
I haven't had problems with the diffs. The end gears strip pretty quick. I'm actually about to publish a video on that today or tomorrow. Yes, I have driven the hell out of her and for the most part, its a good little basher! Thanks for watching and cheers.
I think I have the same ones and only put the rear wheel cups on after a ball joint broke o the stock one. And one of them is towed in and like you say not adjustable 😤
There's a lot of modifications that need to be done for them to work half way decent. I'm lookin in to the "Z" car parts. Better quality. Thanks for the comment and for watching @joe blow! Cheers
You don't want these particular parts! It's why u didn't put a link. Bur if you want to look, I got them on Amazon. Sorry for a lame awnser, but I would hate to have someone get them, they are that bad!!
Hey, thanks for the vid. I was wondering where you got the metal motor gear from? I’m pretty new to the hobby and I’m having a lot of trouble finding one. Thanks
The only thing that is a good metal upgrade is front and rear wheel hubs and shock towers
Theres this guy who knows these cars inside out. Look up Beaver's Hobby. My motor was running way too hot. Showed me to lube up everything and trim some plastic on the diff so that the wheels spin freely after letting go of the throttle. Among other tips.
I've seen Beaver. He had some cool stuff!
Yea that guy is a goldmine of information. Just wish he didn't speak like a badly programmed voice AI.
@@gt7984 Oh Herrow
Yeah I went through 2 full sets of parts trying to replicate that not gonna lie i thought it was a myth. Could not replicate what was shown in Beaver's video to smoothen the drive train, locked both diffs, trimmed and sanded all the plastic, ran it for hours and hours to smoothen it, used the correct grease afterwards.
The wheels simply will not spin after letting go of the throttle if you have some key piece of information im missing that would be amazing but its very hard to believe after how many attempts and parts
Thanks!!!
They are junk, you will need a lot of adjustment and mods to make it work ok, not even good.
Honestly looks to me like some user error on stripping the screws. As far as the play you need to shim the ball rods with spacers. Which is typical for rc’s. You can use teflon motor shims are any thin washer that fits. You can put either in the front side or the rear side. That will adjust some caster and reduce or induce bump steer.
Metal is a waste of time, it just doesn't absorb impacts, like plastic, and things break.
Yessir!
On a side note... is that a bug on your picture?
I ordered to full metal kits for WLToys buggy's, and encountered a lot of issues that couldn't be solved.
So yeah, I'm not 100% sure, but I think it's trash indeed.
Hahaha! Yep!
He's the wrong owner it's not meant to be a basher
But it's so fun! Cheers
I just ordered the 284131. What's the screw quality like? Are they soft and easy to strip out like most wltoys? Should I order a screw pack as well when upgrading?
You might want to get a kit, just in case. The plastic will strip out first. Stay away from the cheap metal upgrades. Stay with stock parts or go with the Kyosho mini z stuff. Good luck and cheers.
@sinister r/c , thanks for the sub. I just subbed you as well!
Almost makes more sense to just get a new car for $60, then use the first / broken one as a parts car....?
I have thought of that too! Hahaha
…yes…
Camber links and for any information on this or k989 beavers hobby channel has a full guide on how to set these up if that's any help 👍
Thanks bud. I have watched and subbed to Beaver. His info is awesome. In the middle of a move, but more to come on the little green machine. Thanks for the sub and for watching! Cheers!
you dont need to tear the whole backside apart xD but nice vid 😄 PS. i know this cus ive had 3 years experience wth the k989 and i also have the 284131 😊
I'm getting better at these little things. Thanks for watching and cheers.
I'm definitely getting one of these. Probably just gonna do the carbon fiber chassis and wheels. Thanks for the video
Super fun to drive, but with fat fingers, not so fun to work on! Hahah! Thanks for watchin and cheers bud.
Thats thing looks cool as !
Just subbed ya
Thanks for the sub! Cheers bud!
Merci pour ton temp . Je vais avoir sous peu le même rc. Je crois bien de le garder stock ! Continue ta passion et Ride on man !
Never got a comment in French. Cheers and thanks fer watchin
Best aluminum parts are shock towers and knuckles that's it carbonfiber chassis does not have the cut outs like the original so the suspension doesn't work as good
I had an aluminium kit from banggood. It was waste of money. I went back to original parts.
Pretty much. I was hoping this video saved other people wasting their money. Cheers and thanks for watching
Have you got any problems with the diff breaking yet? If you broke it or not, have you driven it much?
I haven't had problems with the diffs. The end gears strip pretty quick. I'm actually about to publish a video on that today or tomorrow. Yes, I have driven the hell out of her and for the most part, its a good little basher! Thanks for watching and cheers.
@@huntemup72 thank you!
Its fine and looks nice but You w'll have to spend few hours, give washers here and there etc. But i think its worth it.
She's a dust collector now! Hahaha! Cheers and thanks for watching.
I think I have the same ones and only put the rear wheel cups on after a ball joint broke o the stock one. And one of them is towed in and like you say not adjustable 😤
I'm glad it's not just me! Haha. Thanks for watching and cheers.
Kevin Talbot has a video on these and I think he says you may need to file or sand some part of the component to make it line up properly .
There's a lot of modifications that need to be done for them to work half way decent. I'm lookin in to the "Z" car parts. Better quality. Thanks for the comment and for watching @joe blow! Cheers
HOW ARE THE SHOCKS FOR IT. IM GETTING MY FORCE ON WEDS
Keep it stock. Maybe get the mini z diffs. All these parts are crap, including the shocks!! They are really fun though. Cheers
@@huntemup72 thanks man get review. Honest review
I got that upgrade kit didn't get the shocks or all the screws to put everything together
You are not missing anything... except screws! Cheers bud
If the upgrade shocks are good I was going to maybe get them
Save your money on all these parts!!
My motor looks like is to tight to the gear so it doesn’t reverse and is not fast at all how can I fix this?
Have you checked the mesh for beingvto tight, or make sure the gears don't have burs. Good luck and let me know. Cheers and thanks for watching!
@@huntemup72 i got it just had to adjust one of the nobs and it fixed it I love it thanks for responding
Link for upgraded parts...?
You don't want these particular parts! It's why u didn't put a link. Bur if you want to look, I got them on Amazon. Sorry for a lame awnser, but I would hate to have someone get them, they are that bad!!
@@huntemup72 Just trying to make it reliable hasn't even got here yet but I'd like to have all my ducks in a row
Hey, thanks for the vid. I was wondering where you got the metal motor gear from? I’m pretty new to the hobby and I’m having a lot of trouble finding one. Thanks
I haven't changed any gears. The pinion is brass and is stock. Sorry I couldn't be better help, but welcome to the rabbit hole of RC. Cheers bud.
Ebay. And don’t be afraid to get it. This guy kinda buggered it up. Ebay is the absolute best place for Rc parts for ant make or type.