like a time warp back to 1977, when petrol was 17c per litre, and these 5.8's used to cruise around all over sydney, thumping but barely off idle speed, was a beautiful sound. great videos, cheers.
Thanks... there were also a lot of other V8's thumping around back then - namely 4.2s, 4.9s and 5.0s They're all a little thin on the ground these days, although a few creep out of the woodwork when the weather's fine...
yes thank you Peter ! i'm an American but have got hooked on your builds . the Carter " Thermoquad " was a smog replacement for the Carter " AFB " . the Carter line was used mainly by Chrysler as their " performance " carb . in the States the " Thermoquad " was short lived . approximately " 1971 - 1977 " . and offered on select , " 340 - 360 - 400 - 440 " models . in fact for " 71-72 " it was perhaps the best factory performance carb in the States . after that performance took a nose-dive . when " new " Thermoquads were fantastic . but when used with high-mileage . even experienced mechanics would often junk them . many issues arose from the plastic-body cracking and warping . most Thermoquads were replaced with the similar " Q-Jet " . which is a GM design . Holley also made a " spread-bore " replacement . eventually it earned the name " Thermo-Junk " . but again when they were new . perhaps the best " factory "street performance carb ever . so the best of luck in your carb build .
Very true re: the Holley, easy and simple but unfortunately not the factory fitment on these cars - so I'll be the sucker who tries this way first. Cheers and thanks.
interesting video informative as always. Brought up on BMC/BL cars with SUs and look back on the simplicity of cars vs today's fuel injection, this car shows just how complex and intricate they could be. Happy Australia Day.
Thanks again Peter, your tutorials are indispensable. I actually rebuilt my thermoquad a little while ago using a rebuild kit, and it worked out a treat. I used Butanone, also known as methyl ethyl ketone (MEK), or your garden variety PVC primer, to clean the fuel stains and other muck off of the carby body. BTW I bought a cam bearing tool from the USA delivered for $250 on Amazon (because I love any excuse to buy new tools), and had the new bearings popped in within 20 mins. Awesome. I have a couple of other engines I'll be doing, so I justified the cost and the confidence that it will be done right. I also didn't tell the Mrs. ((wink wink))
Good work Dave, I thought about buying a cam bearing tool as well... although the Chev one was a quarter of the price of the Ford one and I ended up paying to have them done - I also have another Cleveland to build, so perhaps I should have. Cheers and thanks
Hi Peter I just wanted to say what a awesome job you have done. I've watched you build the engines and I've loved it keep the videos coming thanks very much Barry from Wales in the uk
Sorry to be off topic but does anyone know of a tool to get back into an Instagram account?? I was dumb lost my login password. I appreciate any tips you can offer me!
@Tobias Dean Thanks for your reply. I got to the site through google and im in the hacking process atm. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Tom Huss I did up a ZG in the late 80's. It turned out pretty sweet. Only real issue I had were the aftermarket door seals didn't quite seal properly. Ford had a stupid design with the split door seals in my opinion.
one trick i leaned from an old guy years ago was to put a little flux on the screw on the carb flap and just touch it with a soldering iron, it makes them secure with out risking bending anything.
Im currently rebuilding my thermoquad now. Need to order the right screw size for the butterfly shaft. I think they are #5-40, but Im not sure. Do you know and do you have a recommendation one where to order them from?
Talking about not tightening the screws until you seat the butterfly's, You would be surprised how many "new and tested" carbs ive received and found that the butter flies are way on the piss and you would never get the bloody car to idle ever the way they come assembled, Every new carb ive ever bought has had some sort of flaw whether it would be that , binding shafts through improper line boring or even missing check valves haha
Great video Peter, Being new to these carbies, I learnt a lot! One question, on mine the electric choke seems to work fine but I can not work out what closes the choke after he engine has cool down. The electric heated spring retract but the choke stays open. Any help would be great! Thanks!
2 years late reply, but have you checked your vacuum pullof? that retracts the choke blade some after the engine is off. Or your choke pulloff might not be working at all.
mmm pavlova. I saw an old bloke driving his Falcon 500 today all original with what looks to be the original plates possibly bought it new, reminded me of your vids - think it was even an XC. Poor guy was mopping his brow, its over 30deg today in Syd.
Well here's a co-incidence - I saw an old bloke driving a ratty XA (single headlight?) yesterday, which I haven't seen since forever. Sydney's west, towing a box trailer. It's wasn't a rat rod, either, just ratty.
really appreciate your attention to detail. the carter autolite 4100 carb on my 64 galaxie works well. The throttle shafts for the primary and secondaries have a little bit of up and down play in the hole; I mean a very little. It is hard to see or even feel.... is this normal?
Hello, I don't think there should be any play - it will draw air and lean out. To be sure though, grab a water bottle and adjust the tip for a fine stream, then squirt around the throttle shafts while the engine's idling... if it falters, there's a leak. Cheers and thanks.
i got a 1983 Dodge D150 with a thermoquad, and it loves to flood. ive done a rebuild, what do you think the problem is? cause ive taken it to carb specialists and it still floods
Another thing to look for is worn needle and seat and/or loose needle & seat and of course bad float adjustment, or floats which have absorbed fuel and are too heavy as a result.
With a title like that, how can anyone resist?!! 🍺 Pete, I have a charcoal canister in my 77 mini but I run it empty as I am unsure whether it offers any actual environmental benefits. What are your thoughts?
Hi, Did you remove the charcoal from it? If it's empty then it won't serve its purpose... the activated charcoal inside is meant to filter fumes from the fuel tank and carburettor bowls... it is then vacuum purged when the engine is started to prevent it reaching its saturation point... at least that's the theory... I think they're a good idea - at least some of the fumes are kept away from the atmosphere... Cheers
Hey I heard a ton of great things about the fitech as well. You can get it through JB's powercentre in Canada maybe worth checking the exchange rates could be cheaper sourcing it through Canada. I know I am seriously considering it for the 67 mustang that I am putting a Cleveland in.
i have a fitech system it works good in warm weather but doesn't understand below zero temps throttle response was great didn't do any better on mileage then my 1406 edelbrock
A small note ... this web page suggests 2 1/2 turns for the initial setting of the idle mixture screws. (The info appears as a photo caption.} 10. Remember To Install The Step Up Lever And Pin In The Base Plate, With The Flat Side Down To The Actuation Cam. Set The Idle Mixture Screws To 2 1⁄2 Turns Out From Lightly Seated. www.hotrod.com/articles/mopp-1304-rebuilding-a-carter-thermoquad-carburetor/#mopp-1304-11-rebuilding-a-carter-thermoquad-carburetor-idle-mixture-screws And for later, the next pic says "11. A Nice Feature Of The TQ Is The Metering Rod Yoke Arrangement, Which Ensures The Rods Are Acting Simultaneously. While Depressing The Yoke, Adjust The Step Up Rod To 1 1⁄2 Turns Up From Fully Bottomed."
So Peter how do you know that some mug somewhere hasnt assembled all 3 of those carbs incorrectly to start with or if the bodies are misshapen or bent and they leak air?
I don't... The carburettor I'm using as a "model" is great for linkage and fastener type and placement... for the finer details and adjustmants I'll use a factory manual. Cheers
I’ve always wondered how you take a vehicle that used to take leaded gasoline and change it to unleaded? Or do you buy lead and mix it with the gasoline?
i know this is an old comment but to give an answer, you have to change out the valve guides. That's it. The lead acts as a lubricant for the valve stems. Without the lead you need a different material for the guides.
@@cygnus1965 you are correct, i was thinking in terms of the whole valve (as in a full valve job) and i misspoke. Sometimes in my old age my brain works faster than my tongue (in this fingers :P)
Thermoquad, the power valve man the power valve. When they work they're great but when they don't they're a real pig. In the past we've even put quadrijets on them. Yeah I know what's about to come........
A drug bust inside. Great use of language, Pete. $1000 for a Fitech? Sounds like a bargain, given how much you can spend on carbs for a much less refined result.
as usual the video is more about cosmetics, than the actual functioning of the circuits of the carburetor. the world is full of shiny refinished show car carbs, that don't function with a damn. that's the problem with the hot rod hobby. it's become all window dressing.
like a time warp back to 1977, when petrol was 17c per litre, and these 5.8's used to cruise around all over sydney, thumping but barely off idle speed, was a beautiful sound. great videos, cheers.
Thanks... there were also a lot of other V8's thumping around back then - namely 4.2s, 4.9s and 5.0s They're all a little thin on the ground these days, although a few creep out of the woodwork when the weather's fine...
yes thank you Peter !
i'm an American but have got hooked on your builds .
the Carter " Thermoquad " was a smog replacement for the Carter " AFB " .
the Carter line was used mainly by Chrysler as their " performance " carb .
in the States the " Thermoquad " was short lived .
approximately " 1971 - 1977 " .
and offered on select , " 340 - 360 - 400 - 440 " models .
in fact for " 71-72 " it was perhaps the best factory performance carb in the States .
after that performance took a nose-dive .
when " new " Thermoquads were fantastic .
but when used with high-mileage .
even experienced mechanics would often junk them .
many issues arose from the plastic-body cracking and warping .
most Thermoquads were replaced with the similar " Q-Jet " .
which is a GM design .
Holley also made a " spread-bore " replacement .
eventually it earned the name " Thermo-Junk " .
but again when they were new .
perhaps the best " factory "street performance carb ever .
so the best of luck in your carb build .
True, ive rebuilt heaps of them. Great carb but they leak and play up after a while. I just use an Edelbrock afb.
You are thinking of the quadrajunk GM carb.
Amazing to see someone work on these. They were always considered 'dogs' & thrown in the bin as a matter of course. Awesome job Peter
Thanks Cameron - setting it up is going to be a lot more difficult than stripping and cleaning., Cheers
Thanks for another great video, Peter! Been enjoying your work since the Wolseley days.
Thanks so much - hopefully I can keep producing content which you find interesting. Cheers
Great TV!! Could watch - and have done - these all day! Ive only taken one of those apart once..which led me to use a Holley haha...so many bits!
Very true re: the Holley, easy and simple but unfortunately not the factory fitment on these cars - so I'll be the sucker who tries this way first. Cheers and thanks.
interesting video informative as always. Brought up on BMC/BL cars with SUs and look back on the simplicity of cars vs today's fuel injection, this car shows just how complex and intricate they could be. Happy Australia Day.
Thanks again Peter, your tutorials are indispensable.
I actually rebuilt my thermoquad a little while ago using a rebuild kit, and it worked out a treat. I used Butanone, also known as methyl ethyl ketone (MEK), or your garden variety PVC primer, to clean the fuel stains and other muck off of the carby body.
BTW I bought a cam bearing tool from the USA delivered for $250 on Amazon (because I love any excuse to buy new tools), and had the new bearings popped in within 20 mins. Awesome. I have a couple of other engines I'll be doing, so I justified the cost and the confidence that it will be done right. I also didn't tell the Mrs. ((wink wink))
Good work Dave, I thought about buying a cam bearing tool as well... although the Chev one was a quarter of the price of the Ford one and I ended up paying to have them done - I also have another Cleveland to build, so perhaps I should have. Cheers and thanks
Hi Peter I just wanted to say what a awesome job you have done. I've watched you build the engines and I've loved it keep the videos coming thanks very much Barry from Wales in the uk
Sorry to be off topic but does anyone know of a tool to get back into an Instagram account??
I was dumb lost my login password. I appreciate any tips you can offer me!
@Roberto Jaden instablaster ;)
@Tobias Dean Thanks for your reply. I got to the site through google and im in the hacking process atm.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Tobias Dean It worked and I now got access to my account again. I'm so happy!
Thanks so much you saved my account!
@Roberto Jaden No problem xD
l have a ZG Fairlane that l am doing up just about there but it's been nice to watch your vlogs for some good info thanks
Tom Huss
I did up a ZG in the late 80's. It turned out pretty sweet. Only real issue I had were the aftermarket door seals didn't quite seal properly. Ford had a stupid design with the split door seals in my opinion.
cool l got my seals last year of Rare Spares not a bad fit if you like to give me your email l will send pic's waiting for your next vlog thanks
Thanks Tom, glad you can get something from them. Cheers
Working at a Ford dealer for 17 years,I did dozens of these.
There are a few tricks around setting up the metering rods correctly.
another great video. thank you for taking the time to make it.
Thanks Drew, I'm glad you liked it. Cheers
As a kid someone demonstrated a quadrajet to me, in a ‘65 Impala 327. It was like having a supercharger kick in, I think.
Pete I had a Dodge 250 and when I rebuilt it my problem was setting the floats and and the metering rods hope you have better luck then I did.
Thanks Leonard, I will be re-assembling it with the manual next to me. Cheers
Strangely enough, I'm the first one here; but I know I'm not the first one excited!
Keep it up mate and thanks for the comments. Cheers
My favorite carb.
one trick i leaned from an old guy years ago was to put a little flux on the screw on the carb flap and just touch it with a soldering iron, it makes them secure with out risking bending anything.
Im currently rebuilding my thermoquad now. Need to order the right screw size for the butterfly shaft. I think they are #5-40, but Im not sure. Do you know and do you have a recommendation one where to order them from?
Talking about not tightening the screws until you seat the butterfly's, You would be surprised how many "new and tested" carbs ive received and found that the butter flies are way on the piss and you would never get the bloody car to idle ever the way they come assembled, Every new carb ive ever bought has had some sort of flaw whether it would be that , binding shafts through improper line boring or even missing check valves haha
Peter, who does your blasting and also where do you get your plating done?
Thanks
Hi Al, blasting is done at Ferntree Gully Hydroblasting and the plating is at Warners Metro in Power Road in Bayswater.
@@PeterAndersons thanks Peter, keep up the great videos. I love your V8 engine builds and the XC.
Great video Peter, Being new to these carbies, I learnt a lot!
One question, on mine the electric choke seems to work fine
but I can not work out what closes the choke after he engine has cool down.
The electric heated spring retract but the choke stays open.
Any help would be great! Thanks!
2 years late reply, but have you checked your vacuum pullof? that retracts the choke blade some after the engine is off.
Or your choke pulloff might not be working at all.
mmm pavlova. I saw an old bloke driving his Falcon 500 today all original with what looks to be the original plates possibly bought it new, reminded me of your vids - think it was even an XC. Poor guy was mopping his brow, its over 30deg today in Syd.
Well here's a co-incidence - I saw an old bloke driving a ratty XA (single headlight?) yesterday, which I haven't seen since forever. Sydney's west, towing a box trailer. It's wasn't a rat rod, either, just ratty.
That's the reason I drive a modern car in the heat and cold wet weather... classics are best saved for nice fine days. Cheers
Peter Anderson I'm disturbed by your lack of faith. 😁
really appreciate your attention to detail. the carter autolite 4100 carb on my 64 galaxie works well. The throttle shafts for the primary and secondaries have a little bit of up and down play in the hole; I mean a very little. It is hard to see or even feel.... is this normal?
Hello, I don't think there should be any play - it will draw air and lean out. To be sure though, grab a water bottle and adjust the tip for a fine stream, then squirt around the throttle shafts while the engine's idling... if it falters, there's a leak. Cheers and thanks.
i got a 1983 Dodge D150 with a thermoquad, and it loves to flood. ive done a rebuild, what do you think the problem is? cause ive taken it to carb specialists and it still floods
I know this is a 3 yr old comment but almost everyone forgets the tiny o-rings on the lower phenolic body. They flood out the manifold
Another thing to look for is worn needle and seat and/or loose needle & seat and of course bad float adjustment, or floats which have absorbed fuel and are too heavy as a result.
With a title like that, how can anyone resist?!! 🍺 Pete, I have a charcoal canister in my 77 mini but I run it empty as I am unsure whether it offers any actual environmental benefits. What are your thoughts?
Hi, Did you remove the charcoal from it? If it's empty then it won't serve its purpose... the activated charcoal inside is meant to filter fumes from the fuel tank and carburettor bowls... it is then vacuum purged when the engine is started to prevent it reaching its saturation point... at least that's the theory... I think they're a good idea - at least some of the fumes are kept away from the atmosphere... Cheers
Peter Anderson Thanks Peter. Will have a go at sourcing the charcoal.
Hey I heard a ton of great things about the fitech as well. You can get it through JB's powercentre in Canada maybe worth checking the exchange rates could be cheaper sourcing it through Canada. I know I am seriously considering it for the 67 mustang that I am putting a Cleveland in.
I didn't think of the Canadian route... will certainly consider it if this old Carter causes more grey hair. Cheers and thanks
Great old carb, just the plastic body leaks into the venturies . Havent tried a Rochester, just used Holleys and edelbrock.
The carb in your video title page has the S-link on backwards.
to secure the butterfly screws on my SU, it has slots cut into the bottom of the screw. once inserted, use a screwdriver to open the slot a little.
Thanks James, a good pointer indeed... I ended up belting the ones on the Plymouth to flare them out a bit. Cheers
i have a fitech system it works good in warm weather but doesn't understand below zero temps
throttle response was great didn't do any better on mileage then my 1406 edelbrock
The Fitech system looks sensational from what I've read... would certainly consider it. Cheers
you could drill a tiny hole in those plymouth carby screws and wire them in place, save the risk of bashing everything to bits
A small note ... this web page suggests 2 1/2 turns for the initial setting of the idle mixture screws. (The info appears as a photo caption.}
10. Remember To Install The Step Up Lever And Pin In The Base Plate, With The Flat Side Down To The Actuation Cam. Set The Idle Mixture Screws To 2 1⁄2 Turns Out From Lightly Seated.
www.hotrod.com/articles/mopp-1304-rebuilding-a-carter-thermoquad-carburetor/#mopp-1304-11-rebuilding-a-carter-thermoquad-carburetor-idle-mixture-screws
And for later, the next pic says "11. A Nice Feature Of The TQ Is The Metering Rod Yoke Arrangement, Which Ensures The Rods Are Acting Simultaneously. While Depressing The Yoke, Adjust The Step Up Rod To 1 1⁄2 Turns Up From Fully Bottomed."
Hi Kent, You're right - it's 2.5 turns as quoted in my manual - thanks for pointing that out. Cheers
So Peter how do you know that some mug somewhere hasnt assembled all 3 of those carbs incorrectly to start with or if the bodies are misshapen or bent and they leak air?
I don't... The carburettor I'm using as a "model" is great for linkage and fastener type and placement... for the finer details and adjustmants I'll use a factory manual. Cheers
nice video.
I’ve always wondered how you take a vehicle that used to take leaded gasoline and change it to unleaded? Or do you buy lead and mix it with the gasoline?
i know this is an old comment but to give an answer, you have to change out the valve guides. That's it. The lead acts as a lubricant for the valve stems. Without the lead you need a different material for the guides.
Not guides it is the seats. Hardened valve seats can be installed at the machine shop so the valves dont sink into the head with the unleaded fuel.
@@cygnus1965 you are correct, i was thinking in terms of the whole valve (as in a full valve job) and i misspoke.
Sometimes in my old age my brain works faster than my tongue (in this fingers :P)
Thermoquad, the power valve man the power valve. When they work they're great but when they don't they're a real pig. In the past we've even put quadrijets on them. Yeah I know what's about to come........
A drug bust inside. Great use of language, Pete.
$1000 for a Fitech? Sounds like a bargain, given how much you can spend on carbs for a much less refined result.
That's what I think too... I would have done it already if I hadn't dropped so much cash on these Carters. Cheers
yeah go the quad or fitech pete, bin that thing..
Those have been my sentiments in the past - I'm just shooting for an original look...
as usual the video is more about cosmetics, than the actual functioning of the circuits of the carburetor. the world is full of shiny refinished show car carbs, that don't function with a damn. that's the problem with the hot rod hobby. it's become all window dressing.