70s era musky camper with wood paneling is just perfect. Arguably some of my strongest memories. I wonder if they all just start to smell like a bottle of Tylenol after like a year.
That electrical joint between the copper and the wire is an Ultrasonic Weld. Generally pretty strong and low resistance when done well, but solder is probably a safe bet here
Don't know if it's ultrasonic, or basically a spot weld, but either way, they're safer than solder - solder will melt when it gets hot and fail, the weld won't. Depends on how you look at it maybe - maybe you can consider the solder connection a fuse in a way
@@gorak9000 I just left basically the same comment. I'm not sure if soldering was an upgrade. Maybe if it was somehow tied on and then soldered? Using solder as the mechanical fastener is generally considered ah, suboptimal? It looked like he put a healthy glob on though so probably fine.
4:40 I've seen a repair video for LCDs, the black strip on the bottom is a zebra connector and it being sandwich between the LCD and PCB provides the connection - unfortunately I'm not the guy to explain this, not thoroughly at least.
The zebra strips actually have a lot of tiny caebon based connections running from top to bottom. The pitch of the zebra strip is smaller than the pitch of the contacts on LCD and PCB, so some of the connections of the strip are staying unused, while some are sandwiched right between the contacts of the PCB and the LCD.
It's like a layered cake of rubber and carbon. So if you have a slice of it, it has conductor, isolator, conductor, etc. This has a pace. Let's call it 1 mm. If you have a comb on the PCB, 1 mm pace and a comb on the display connector, same pace, then you can cut a slice of cake, align it, and, when pressed against each other, the carbon slices act alike a ton of connectors. The advantage of this is it's cheap, fairly reliable, shock resistant if you secure the display well and off the shelf, you just cut it to size. The disadvantage is that it strongly dislikes being disassembled. Especially if it grows old and it loses its elasticity. But they are easily replaced. They also dislike being bumped, but glue and pressure fix that. Fortunately, one end was glued to the display and the other was correctly aligned by the display screws. The narrower the pacing, the more sensitive it is. They are widely used for components that require a lot of connections, like passive displays. If you see a screen with a dead or stuck line, it's likely one these being bumped. (can also be caused by dead transistors in better screens)
That pad that connects the screen to the circuit board is called a zebra strip it is made of conductive strips of foam. the strips are smaller than the contacts to prevent cross talk. Sometimes zebra strips alternate in colour which gives them their name.
Hey, on a somewhat related note - What about adding a fuse to reduce the burn-your-house-down factor? Maybe that should be a new acronym - The cheap appliance BYHD factor.
If you notice that's your typical NA plug style that mocks a sensible, cheap, easy to implement safety devices. Really though I'd NA stole the fuse and longer ground pin for a shutter plug system I'd be happier.
Wowza, congrats on 50k!! Definitely well-deserved. The little rubber strip on the LCD is how it connects to the contacts on the PCB. It’s not actually attached to the LCD - it’s just hanging on there by pressure. It’s called a zebra strip - if you look very closely at it, it’s got a bunch of what are essentially wires running straight through it (not actually wires but you get the point). So it bridges the contacts from the LCD to the PCB. On some older equipment with LCDs, you may notice the digits sometimes getting dimmer or segments failing to show up entirely unless the display gets pressed on - that can be fixed by cleaning both sides of the Zebra strip with some isopropanol. Cheers!
Holy shit - talk about timing. I'm laying in bed last night wide awake because my cheap space heater is short cycling as it's analog thermostat gets closer and closer to the set temp. I sat there thinking "There has got to be something I can plug into the wall with a remote thermister to solve this..."
Don't know if it's universal, but I find just about any oil heater I've come across will run their full power for a limited amount of time then switch to their low power mode, which could be (part) of why the heater couldn't maintain the set temperature for your first attempt. On another note, I've done exactly this the more high tech (and more expensive) way with a smart outlet, zigbee temperature sensor and Home Assistant running the show. I found it certainly worked better than the awful analog thermostats just about every oil heater I've seen on the market includes.
Hysteresis is a big thing with controls. With cut on and cut off too close together that can lead to problems. You're not actually controlling the state well. Your heating element is always a step behind.
The big chip (U3) that you call PLC is the display driver chip. The smaller chip (U2) is the actual micro processor. There is no EPROM to be seen, so if it uses an EEPROM for memory, it's internal to the micro processor.
IM SMART ok Fedo. The lcd connects by something called a zebra strip. Conductive strips like the membrane keyboard just a bunch of stripes. (Hence zebra)
CPU to display is via a ' Zedbra strip '. Rubber sandwich with conductive carbon rubber in between insulator making a conductive path by compression to the display keep clean and align carefully tighten screws equally. Best. '
I don't think that one lead was soldered. It looked spot welded to me. You're not supposed to rely on solder alone for a mechanical connection. Weld is viewed as more reliable. A crimp would be better yet. A proper crush fused crimp. Which is welded itself after a sort with mechanical security.
It uses what is called a zebra connector. A conductive elastomer with non conductive elastomer in a sort of ice cream sandwich configuration. Basically a pencil eraser with conductive and non conductive bits all sandwiched together to form a highly shock tolerant primarily board to display interface.
That was not soldered, it was a spot weld. They use same technique in automatic breakers to connect movable terminal with rest of the circuit by braided copper.
This channel is beginning to inspire me to start disassembling everything before I use it for the first time. That puny drop of solder is scary and should be grounds for a preemptive class action lawsuit against Amazon. It's not a matter of 'if' but 'when' that device will set fire to something. It's a concept called "quality control" where each product is randomly sampled and verified to not just function but be engineered correctly to the specification. Amazon clearly isn't doing that or this product would never have reached your doorstep.
Hey, you just solved my glue up problem. I don't mind the cold shop (shop my ass! It's a tiny NYC 1 car garage, but I digress) But if I have to do a glue up, it can't be in the 40's. So I could preheat to bare minimum and not waste power. Otherwise, I inevitably forget and the "shop" stays at 90deg for two days. 😅
Membrane switches are not durable. I have broken the membranes on an electronic keyboard, whereas my progressive weighted action has put up with my piano playing style.
⚠⚠Load Ratings printed on switches, relays, etc are only for *Resistive* Loads. The whole unit using that relay is the same at best and may work for small heaters but *Not* for anything with a motor and burn up likely both. Motors are *Inductive Loads* that Derate most things to 1/4 to 1/3 of printed Amp rating. If you look up datasheet for JQC-3FF and many other "no name" relays nearly all say nothing about load type or Resistive Loads and no mention of inductive loads meaning may not handle 1/4 of printer rating controlling any motor. VS look up Omron and other Name Brand Relay datasheets that show Resistive and must lower Inductive contact ratings. Very Common is Omron MY4 02 DC12 relay printed as 5 amp but datasheet states only 2 amp Inductive.
Funny story but not in haha way - I've burned my universal component tester just before watching this informative material, by connecting a charged capacitor. Well we'll AVR don't like rapid discharge via IO pins - I'll learn how to resolder a new chip now 🎉
Very interesting. In first world countries like Australia I haven't actually ever seen an oil-fin heater that doesn't have a thermometer, generally an analog one, built in. This does seem like a nice efficient solution for the caravan, no point in putting in some flashy Chinese Tuya smart home gear if you don't have internet access from there.
@@gorak9000 Tuya devices are safe. As a White Christian gentile, the threats to my safety come from the zionists who run the US empire, not nice Chinese people.
0:37 and pricey and useless. Cheap blower heater would heat up space 20 times faster AND has a thermostat that actually does it's job. 5:42 Spotwelded maybe?
Chinese I’m watching your video after I got a hummer in a basement in Eagleville
*clutches pearls*
Great video. How did you train that naked mole rat to plug that device in?
I reward him later, but exactly how isn’t polite to discuss pubicly.
@@thedoubtfultechnician8067lmao
@@thedoubtfultechnician8067TMI
@@thedoubtfultechnician8067 lol
A man with a thermometer knows the exact temperature. A man with two thermometers isn't sure...
I liked the message to your kids at the end 😂
the masculine urge to to live in a camper in the middle of your backwoods junkyard, living out all of our dreams.
70s era musky camper with wood paneling is just perfect. Arguably some of my strongest memories.
I wonder if they all just start to smell like a bottle of Tylenol after like a year.
To be honest I half expected a flame animation over the camper instead of the peaceful woods for the first test.
“It’s not going to be the kid that looks like me” 😂😂😂
Your Kid looks exactly like it's father - but I won't go in details - either way You don't know this guy. My favourite compliment to a fresh father
That electrical joint between the copper and the wire is an Ultrasonic Weld. Generally pretty strong and low resistance when done well, but solder is probably a safe bet here
Don't know if it's ultrasonic, or basically a spot weld, but either way, they're safer than solder - solder will melt when it gets hot and fail, the weld won't. Depends on how you look at it maybe - maybe you can consider the solder connection a fuse in a way
@@gorak9000 I just left basically the same comment. I'm not sure if soldering was an upgrade. Maybe if it was somehow tied on and then soldered? Using solder as the mechanical fastener is generally considered ah, suboptimal? It looked like he put a healthy glob on though so probably fine.
1:54
I almost spit my coffee out laughing.
You deserve more love
Back at you!
@ thank you I hope you have a good thanksgiving
1:55 getting stuck in the washing machine is the worst!
Depends who you ask
4:40 I've seen a repair video for LCDs, the black strip on the bottom is a zebra connector and it being sandwich between the LCD and PCB provides the connection - unfortunately I'm not the guy to explain this, not thoroughly at least.
The zebra strips actually have a lot of tiny caebon based connections running from top to bottom.
The pitch of the zebra strip is smaller than the pitch of the contacts on LCD and PCB, so some of the connections of the strip are staying unused, while some are sandwiched right between the contacts of the PCB and the LCD.
It's like a layered cake of rubber and carbon. So if you have a slice of it, it has conductor, isolator, conductor, etc. This has a pace. Let's call it 1 mm.
If you have a comb on the PCB, 1 mm pace and a comb on the display connector, same pace, then you can cut a slice of cake, align it, and, when pressed against each other, the carbon slices act alike a ton of connectors.
The advantage of this is it's cheap, fairly reliable, shock resistant if you secure the display well and off the shelf, you just cut it to size.
The disadvantage is that it strongly dislikes being disassembled. Especially if it grows old and it loses its elasticity. But they are easily replaced. They also dislike being bumped, but glue and pressure fix that.
Fortunately, one end was glued to the display and the other was correctly aligned by the display screws. The narrower the pacing, the more sensitive it is.
They are widely used for components that require a lot of connections, like passive displays.
If you see a screen with a dead or stuck line, it's likely one these being bumped. (can also be caused by dead transistors in better screens)
6:10 was like a flashbang
Shoutout to the Trogdor on the thumbnail
Ha. I didn’t even notice.
The burninator
That pad that connects the screen to the circuit board is called a zebra strip it is made of conductive strips of foam. the strips are smaller than the contacts to prevent cross talk. Sometimes zebra strips alternate in colour which gives them their name.
Congrats for the 50k subscribers!!
Hey, on a somewhat related note - What about adding a fuse to reduce the burn-your-house-down factor? Maybe that should be a new acronym - The cheap appliance BYHD factor.
If you notice that's your typical NA plug style that mocks a sensible, cheap, easy to implement safety devices.
Really though I'd NA stole the fuse and longer ground pin for a shutter plug system I'd be happier.
5:35 - Not soldered, spot welded but your point is still good. Stray strands are dangerous.
why is no one talking about the fact that he's naked lol
Wowza, congrats on 50k!! Definitely well-deserved. The little rubber strip on the LCD is how it connects to the contacts on the PCB. It’s not actually attached to the LCD - it’s just hanging on there by pressure. It’s called a zebra strip - if you look very closely at it, it’s got a bunch of what are essentially wires running straight through it (not actually wires but you get the point). So it bridges the contacts from the LCD to the PCB. On some older equipment with LCDs, you may notice the digits sometimes getting dimmer or segments failing to show up entirely unless the display gets pressed on - that can be fixed by cleaning both sides of the Zebra strip with some isopropanol. Cheers!
I'm incredibly surprised that the ground is connected to anything
Holy shit - talk about timing. I'm laying in bed last night wide awake because my cheap space heater is short cycling as it's analog thermostat gets closer and closer to the set temp. I sat there thinking "There has got to be something I can plug into the wall with a remote thermister to solve this..."
Love the heartfelt ending
Aleight now show us how you're going to cook thanksgiving dinner
You have a great sense of humor. Loved it.
Don't know if it's universal, but I find just about any oil heater I've come across will run their full power for a limited amount of time then switch to their low power mode, which could be (part) of why the heater couldn't maintain the set temperature for your first attempt.
On another note, I've done exactly this the more high tech (and more expensive) way with a smart outlet, zigbee temperature sensor and Home Assistant running the show. I found it certainly worked better than the awful analog thermostats just about every oil heater I've seen on the market includes.
Hysteresis is a big thing with controls. With cut on and cut off too close together that can lead to problems. You're not actually controlling the state well. Your heating element is always a step behind.
The big chip (U3) that you call PLC is the display driver chip. The smaller chip (U2) is the actual micro processor. There is no EPROM to be seen, so if it uses an EEPROM for memory, it's internal to the micro processor.
6:14 - Oh man, don't scare me like that.
I thought for a second you are about to get stuck in the plug and require some "kind" of help... 😅😂
Quickly becoming my favorite channel !!!
Always informative and enertaining- love this channel!
and the Trogdor comes in the Niiiiiighht!
The blade on the plug isn’t soldered. It’s spotwelded.
that wire looks ultrasonic welded. (which is preferable)
IM SMART ok Fedo. The lcd connects by something called a zebra strip. Conductive strips like the membrane keyboard just a bunch of stripes. (Hence zebra)
CPU to display is via a ' Zedbra strip '. Rubber sandwich with conductive carbon rubber in between insulator making a conductive path by compression to the display keep clean and align carefully tighten screws equally. Best. '
I found one of these in a portable room temperature monitor. I was blown away by the black magic.
@@hunter2484 Novel way to connect, if you ever see digits missing off a display try tightening the screws.
6:12 most useful explanation
Also where yo clothes at?
I don't think that one lead was soldered. It looked spot welded to me. You're not supposed to rely on solder alone for a mechanical connection. Weld is viewed as more reliable. A crimp would be better yet. A proper crush fused crimp. Which is welded itself after a sort with mechanical security.
atleast the relay claims to be 15amp rated
Guaranteed to survive at least 9 cycles before the contacts weld together!
It uses what is called a zebra connector. A conductive elastomer with non conductive elastomer in a sort of ice cream sandwich configuration. Basically a pencil eraser with conductive and non conductive bits all sandwiched together to form a highly shock tolerant primarily board to display interface.
That was not soldered, it was a spot weld. They use same technique in automatic breakers to connect movable terminal with rest of the circuit by braided copper.
Do they always look so frayed?
An Ultrasonic weld
That phase wire is welded to the contact blade, not soldered.
🤘🤘
Is that relay good to 15A? I’ve been metaphorically burned by that before
loved the wake up music
I went on the internet and found this, and when I was done...🤣
This channel is beginning to inspire me to start disassembling everything before I use it for the first time. That puny drop of solder is scary and should be grounds for a preemptive class action lawsuit against Amazon. It's not a matter of 'if' but 'when' that device will set fire to something. It's a concept called "quality control" where each product is randomly sampled and verified to not just function but be engineered correctly to the specification. Amazon clearly isn't doing that or this product would never have reached your doorstep.
Other commenters have mentioned that it’s probably just spot welded. But I still don’t like how frayed it was.
Hey, you just solved my glue up problem. I don't mind the cold shop (shop my ass! It's a tiny NYC 1 car garage, but I digress) But if I have to do a glue up, it can't be in the 40's. So I could preheat to bare minimum and not waste power. Otherwise, I inevitably forget and the "shop" stays at 90deg for two days. 😅
I wish he uploaded more often
Membrane switches are not durable. I have broken the membranes on an electronic keyboard, whereas my progressive weighted action has put up with my piano playing style.
Durable compared to a similarly priced 4 or 6mm smd tactile push button.
⚠⚠Load Ratings printed on switches, relays, etc are only for *Resistive* Loads. The whole unit using that relay is the same at best and may work for small heaters but *Not* for anything with a motor and burn up likely both. Motors are *Inductive Loads* that Derate most things to 1/4 to 1/3 of printed Amp rating. If you look up datasheet for JQC-3FF and many other "no name" relays nearly all say nothing about load type or Resistive Loads and no mention of inductive loads meaning may not handle 1/4 of printer rating controlling any motor. VS look up Omron and other Name Brand Relay datasheets that show Resistive and must lower Inductive contact ratings. Very Common is Omron MY4 02 DC12 relay printed as 5 amp but datasheet states only 2 amp Inductive.
Love the end where you just couldn't let that horrific solder job on the hot wire stay lol.
I absolutely would have done the same.
5:40 looks spot welded, not soldered.
You might be onto something. Still, that fraying made me nervous.
Still looks like a sucky connection, no matter what it's called.
@@thedoubtfultechnician8067 Yeah, not a fan of that. Needed more energy impulse. Soldering should help.
A freakin office chair with cup holders.
It’s an Oldsmobile Silhouette 2nd row seat from the junkyard, bolted to a desk chair mechanism
Love me a good Jeremy Clarkson reference
And DON'T think for one moment I didn't spot Trogdor
@orellh.1836 Then it was worth the hassle of drawing him in MS paint at 1AM!
TROGDORRRRRRRRR LOL I love it!
best youtube channel
The foam is only conductive in one direction kinda like layers that power the lcd
We're old Trogdor...
Wasn’t that the muscle dragon from Strongbad?
More specifically, it is a Trogdor, The Burninator. :)
The idea is once the house gets hot, the thermostat shuts off.
zebra strip is how the lcd works ...
jokes about chinese companies are great from some guy who is chinese but born murican (because they often are true)
Here before 1 million subs!
Funny story but not in haha way - I've burned my universal component tester just before watching this informative material, by connecting a charged capacitor. Well we'll AVR don't like rapid discharge via IO pins - I'll learn how to resolder a new chip now 🎉
Maaaaaa! I’m smahhhttt!
Those are actually company names
Need to post videos more frequently the content is great!
Actual company names. No need to make shit up when the jokes write themselves.
when more lazy acres? ;(
love the jokes
Damn! Go outside, man. You blinded me.
Very interesting. In first world countries like Australia I haven't actually ever seen an oil-fin heater that doesn't have a thermometer, generally an analog one, built in. This does seem like a nice efficient solution for the caravan, no point in putting in some flashy Chinese Tuya smart home gear if you don't have internet access from there.
you shouldn't be putting Tuya "smart" crap anywhere - why feed the chinese all your datas?
@@gorak9000flash esphome on them and take your data back. Mine connect back to a local home assistant instance that doesnt have internet access
@@gorak9000 Tuya devices are safe. As a White Christian gentile, the threats to my safety come from the zionists who run the US empire, not nice Chinese people.
Yo a back reveal?
WoopWoop! Imported arson on the cheap!
omg
I prefer to think there the real chinese names, but just with a hint of racism 🤔😏.
who the hell leaves a kill-a-watt plugged in for longer than a few hours?
It's not a kill a watt. But it does look like one.
Your wife's boyfriend disliked the end of this video
“I install my receptacles ground up for reasons.” You mean because that’s how they’re supposed to be installed?
I'm not in the habit of dropping scissors near my receptacles.
0:37 and pricey and useless. Cheap blower heater would heat up space 20 times faster AND has a thermostat that actually does it's job.
5:42 Spotwelded maybe?