Easy Panel Line Wash or Pin Wash for your Scale Model Aircraft
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- Опубліковано 7 лип 2020
- Easy Panel Line Wash or Pin Wash for your Scale Model Aircraft
In this video I show my technique on how I go about creating the panel lines on my model aircraft. I use Flory Models washes which are like magic. They are so easy to use and the clean up is also very simple, no smelly thinners here!
Link below to the Flory Models Dark Dirt Wash:
www.florymodels.org/store/flo...
If you would like to see more scale model content, please consider subscribing to my channel.
You can find me on Instagram as @sprue.therapy
Thanks for watching and happy modelling. - Розваги
Great video. My kind of modelling. No impossibly complex and un-reproducable techniques. And a really relaxed style. More please.
Hi Julian, thanks for the comments. I have change my techniques recently which I'll do a video on soon. Thanks for watching.
@@spruetherapy Agree as a newbie this was superb, what sealant did you say you used before this process please? is it really a floor sealant? lol!
@@MrKipvw Hey, I used Pledge, formerly names Future or Klear and yes, it's an acrylic wax for floors. Works a treat but I now use AK Interactive Gauzy Agent. Much better but more expensive.
@@spruetherapy Great stuff Thank You.
@Elian Juelz you’re right, no one gives a damn
You absolute hero! Get it on there no messin’! Great results, thanks for sharing and for the upload.
Thank you! :)
What a Pro tip ! Looks amazing
Really impressed at the production values. Nicely paced, nicely edited. Thanks for this.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks for a straightforward video on this topic. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Michael, more process videos coming soon.
Just received and tried it. Wonderful result and very easy to use, do not wipe too much for a really "dirt" model kit; thanks a lot. Greetings from France
Thanks for trying! Glad it worked for you!
I use this as well and am very happy with it.Good vid!
Cheers Ron. 👍
I love this stuff! Wish the website I buy it from had it back in stock….hopefully they do soon!
Top video, great results.
Thank you!
Thanks. Informative video
i love this
I’m looking forward to my first kit.
Did you manage to build your first kit? How did it go?
Simple. Nice.
Thanks Clive!
It's funny how, in modeling, we go through the trouble to make it look dirty.. and the real thing is the opposite. Thanks for the tips!
The struggle continues! 😂
Looks good and one of my go to favorite methods as well. Phil Flory’s wash is excellent, of course you can make your own concoction as well with pastels and a cheese grater. But for ready to go formula, it’s brilliant. Thanks for the video. 👍
Yes! It was nice to use as an easy method when starting out. I also use oil and enamel washes on models with fine detail as it settles into recesses better. Thanks for watching!
Sprue Therapy Do you like the Tamiya Panel Line stuff also? I believe it’s enamel based so not as forgiving but Another good product and works great in small doses.
@@dtmjax5612 I do have the black one but as of yet, I've not used it. I'll use it on my current build now that you've said that. I'm doing a build video for it so it should be up in a week or two.
yes, this is finally my kind of modelling chanel. someone else that appreciates thats what she said jokes, great video i learnt a lot thanks
Haha gotta have a sense of humour eh. 😁
GUESS WHAT? ! I'm so exited , I have had so many issues ,until I got the right amount of gloss coat on BUT YESTERDAY. I used my finger and I've never had such good results. I brushed on the wash. and left it a bit and used the paper as usual , then later , I saw a small mark and licked my finger and started to rub and suddenly it started to look so much better and I did the whole plane (BF109 1/32 ) terrific result. Maybe I should film it
My wife's small oblong lint free nail wipes work even better than kitchen roll 🙂
Nice, whatever works!
Very helpful video, which makes me a basic and better understanding of the washing method
If I want to wash my 1/48 Rafale aircraft model, wot kind of colour do you recommand for washing?
Cool tips. I like it. I also like your channel as well.
Thank you! Lots more coming.
@@spruetherapy You're welcome. You can subscribe to my channel as well if you are interested.
Subbed under my bikerdan youtube channel. 👍
Great informative video I've just started doing these kits at the age of 44 my fave aircraft are the ww2 range. Im watching as many videos I can to gain as much how to knowledge I did my 1st build without watching any of these videos and whilst it looks OK for a newbie I'm miles away from your level but I've brought a few more kits I got dogfight double from airfix which is a supermarine spitfire mk.1a v messerschmitt bf109e-4 and a gloster gladiator and North American B-25C/D and from revell I got a Lancaster bomber. Plus from airfix I got a battles of Britain tribute which is another Lancaster bomber and another spitfire and hurricane the dogfight double and battle of Britain comes with the stands to display them on however I don't want to start them till I've watched a few more video tips like yours thank for uploading this. And all the best from Derby East Midlands I've subscribed to your channel cheers.
Hi Duncan, sounds like you've got a few kits to do Joe. Hope you enjoy them and thanks for subscribing. All the best, Dan.
@@spruetherapy cheers chap
I'm a newbie as well and I'm interested in how it's going so far
Omg this is so informative, i am struggling with my Academy Spitfire MKXIVc for a competition i am going for 😅 its sooo last minute lol
Good luck in the competition!
Thanks.
Far too many innuendo jokes for a 10 minute video 😆👍 great vid
Thanks for the video! I just got into modeling recently. I'm on my 3rd model and have started to get comfortable painting to the point where I want to start weathering & using washes. How many coats of Pledge/Klear/Future do you recommend before applying a wash? I usually do 3-4 light coats to full seal the model. I'm assuming you should do just one or two coats, then apply your wash, and then do a final coat or two of Pledge?
Thanks Brad. I'm trying to do less coats of varnish lately so I'll do one coat after the wash.
Ha! A DEE-KALS guy, NO DEK-ALS. Welcome aboard! We older modellers are confounded by the debate. One source says the word DECAL derives from the French word for remove which would make it DAY-KAL. Heck! Grew up with and will go to my grave with...DEE-KAL!
It's always been dee-kal to me for 30 + years, used to saying it that way now! It originates from the Latin calcare which means to tread on or press. The French translation was decalomania, which also meant cockamamie! 😂
Since we kicked the King out of the colonies, we get to call it DEE-Kals. Not Deck-Alls. GOD save the Queen...
Not all DEE-KAL:llers are old, im 14 and it is the only right way to say decal
Used to be TRANSFERS, anyway.
G'day ST, I reckon you don't need to leave the wash on so long. It's easier, and safer for the decals and paint to wipe off the wash five or ten minutes after application. It's a quicker and more effective method. Cheers, BH
P.S. It does look much better than the video you did on the 2nd of Feb this year when you demonstrated panels lines filled with oil paints. That was way over the top for realistic looking panel lines. :)
Hi again Bill, this is a clay based wash so 5 mins or 5 days, it comes off with the same amount of effort. In fact, it usually needs around 20 mins to fully dry as it'll still be wet in the recesses and trying to wipe it off then will just smear it all over the model. This does depend on the climate you are living in too though, in cold and rainy UK it can sometimes take longer to fully dry.
Thank you for sharing! Happened to be a Chinese, so I can tell you what the three Chinese words on your green plate. They mean "model", "star" and "society".
Ah brilliant thanks! :D
Best one for beginners I’m definitely adding this to my cart also will oiled earth work?
Is that one of the Flory colours?
Looks good. Now, can you put the Pledge over the wash? Also, what do you use for your final flat coat over the Pledge? I'm getting back into the hobby after some years away and I need to understand which finishes react and don't react to each other. Thanks.
Yes, seal the wash in with more Pledge or other varnish. For my flat coat I currently use Mig Lucky Matte varnish but previously I've used Vallejo Matte varnish. Either are good but the Mig varnish doesn't need thinning.
@@spruetherapy Thanks for your response.
Thank you for this! I bought the Flory products, but have had some trouble; this will help. One question: does the varnish have to be an oil-based? I use Micro Gloss for decal prep, which is water based.
Thanks for watching. No the gloss doesn't need to be oil based. I use a waterbased acrylic gloss in this vid.
Hi mate - I thought the go with Flory Wash was to spray with a matt clear coat first so the clay wash has better grip / take with the surface detail? At any rate your way looks effective as well. Keep up the good work
Hey Dean, if you just want a panel line wash you'd want to apply that over a gloss surface so that you don't leave any wash in other areas. If you want to use the wash as a filter and to stay on the model then that's when you'd use a matte finish. Hope that makes sense! Cheers, Dan.
Great video! How did you apply the polish?
Thanks! Just airbrushed it on, didn't thin it either.
Hi. Really like your videos. Great use for a beginner. What are the benefits between a panel line wash as above and ageing using a pencil? is it one or the other? You said that you use pledge as a varnish...again, please accept that this is a question from a beginner , but is that Pledge as in the household product? Thanks in advance. Pippa
Hi there, you can certainly use a sharp pencil to create panel lines and they do work. This is just another method and one that I think is a little easier as you are not scoring the surface of the model which risks damaging paint/decals. You can do both, I sometimes use watercolour pencils to create weathering which I'll do a video about at some point too.Yes Pledge is a household floor varnish that used to go by the name of Future or Klear in other countries (I'm in the UK). However, some similar looking bottles don't work so make sure they look or sound similar to what I've shown here. I also use AK Gauzy Agent which seems very similar to Pledge but I find it works a little better. Hope that helps! Dan
Hi, that Pledge Product you show is that stuff just regular furniture polish? Do you wipe it on with a soft clean rag/towel? Thank You. That is gloss?
Hi, yes I believe it's an acrylic floor polish. Although it has many names these days! I spray it on with an airbrush neat out of the bottle. Although some people brush it on. Yeah it's a gloss.
👏👏👏👏👍
Hello, great job. I tried these strategy but in severl of my models, the enamel paint underneath the wash got off. Should I use a different kind of wash (non-enamel) so that the base paint stays? Thanks a lot
Hi, yes you'd have to seal the paint underneath with a non enamel varnish, such as acrylic first if you want to use an enamel wash.
That's what she said😄
😁
This looks like a nice way to do the panel lines but can I ask, what is it like with the coats? Its Colours, gloss varnish, decals, gloss varnish, then panel lines and is there matt varnish to finish it off?
So primer, colour, gloss, decals, gloss, oils, gloss and final matte coat.
Thanks for an informative video. I got back into scale modelling last year. I'm still learning. However, it strikes me that covering the entire model to just wipe off the majority of the product is wasteful. I certainly acknowledge your superior skills to mine. Just an observation as I hate wastage... oh and I'm a cheap bastard 😆.
Haha, you could certainly just run it into the panels lines, but that takes more time. I also like the weathering effect that wiping the wash off from the entire model. Gives it a nice worn look.
If I wished to apply both varnish and the black pin wash. Would I need to apply the varnish first or the pin wash. Or does it matter. Thanks 😊
Varnish first, then once dry the pin wash. Cheers!
HA! "That's what she said"! LOL!
can i use this technic for fighter jets too? Or should i do it different i dont know how to wash my models
Yes absolutely! I've used it on jets and scifi models.
Did yoy use the gloss layer before the wash?
I sure did. Helps the wash to flow better into the panels.
would a wash still work nicely on a model with raised panel lines?
Probably not as nicely as washes tend to work best with recesses.
Is that weathering wash acrylic or oil based? And are the colours of the aircraft acrylics?
The wash is clay based. You can use oil based washes, but you have to have a good varnish first. I like to use acrylic based varnish and a clay or oil/enamel based wash.
Are you putting the pledge straight through your airbrush?
Hi Harry, yes neat through the airbrush.
You said you sealed it with pledge. Varnish... is that as in the duster liquid pledge?
No it's the acrylic floor wax kind.
Did you say you used Pledge Varnish.....as in the furniture polish ? Sorry if sound dumb new to modelling
Yeah that's the stuff. It's an acrylic floor varnish but works great on models too!
9:35 need more lemon pledge
GOTTA HAVE DAT LEEMON PLEDGE
Ooh they do Lemon flavour!?
Consuela family guy
How does it work on older kits with raised panel lines?
It wouldn't work as well, as it needs to sit in recesses.
Can I ask what the varnish was again?
...I didn't quite make that out
Pledge, it used to be called Future in the US.
I just found this so sorry as it’s such an old clip. So the trick is the finish the model, basically varnish, then do the wash? I’ve tried on some spares with acrylic paint on using Vallejo wash and it leaves a mess. Many thanks
Yes, varnish and then a wash. However, you need to choose your varnish and your wash carefully. So if you use an acrylic varnish, you could use a clay, oil/enamel based wash. If you want to use an acrylic wash, you would need a laquer based varnish so that you can use acrylic thinners to clean the wash without pulling up the varnish too.
@@spruetherapy thanks. I’m using Mr Hobby varnish as it seems better on the decals
What if I use highly thinned black enamel paint? I'm starting out, and I tried to cut the prices to the lowest possible (while still purchasing some important stuff that make it look good), so I did not really care about these extra weathering solutions, but I do have a dark enamel paint.
Or maybe even, what about watercolor for the panel lines? Does it stick? (of course I'll cover it with varnish later on)
I'm pretty new to aswell I don't know if this will help.. I used acrylic paints over a whole model let it dry then watered down a brown acrylic I had and used it sort of like a wash on panel lines and corners where the paint would sit it came out okay but you got to be careful not to get it where you don't want it as you can't wipe it off with water without damaging your under paint.. I just used small bits of cotton to soak up excess.. it should be even better if you got enamel and enamel thinner
Yes a thin enamel wash will work. Just be sure to first seal the paint in with an acrylic varnish. Watercolour could also work, I've not tried that one myself though.
@@spruetherapy Yeah, I did some research and since I only have enamel stuff I used watercolor, but for some reason it did not really flow into the lines, rather just collect in drops on the surface. Maybe it was because of the gloss surface instead of matt, or the panel lines weren't deep enough from the thickness of the paint layers.
@@elpatrico2562 I think the issue there is water tension. If you can use an acrylic varnish on top of your paint and then an enamel wash, that would work well as it will flow a lot better than water based washes.
@@spruetherapy I see, thanks
My head knows that the model has been varnished, but my heart skips a beat every time I see someone just slap the wash all over :)
Haha!
how do i stop the paint underneath from messing up, because even when i varnish it, it still happens
If you use a proper acrylic varnish and give it time to dry you shouldn't have any issues.
@@spruetherapy thanks, I’ll keep that in mind
so this is for already painted finished model ?
Yes for when you've completed the main part of the painting. Then you add a gloss varnish and apply this method.
What was the wash you used on the models and can you get different shades ? Many thanks Andy
In the video I explain what wash I use and show you how to use it. There's also a link of where to get it in the description. All you need to do is watch the video. :)
@@spruetherapy I'm new to all this so im sorry if I sound thick lol
@@andrewhartley7325 Haha no worries my friend! As I say, the video shows how to use the wash and that would be easier than trying to explain it.I've popped a link in the description on where to buy it. They do have a few different shades but I really like the one used in the vid.
@@spruetherapy Thank you very much as we are in lockdown I can't do or go no where I'm model building just to keep myself occupied
@@andrewhartley7325 That's exactly how I got back into this last June! It certainly helps with the mind. Good luck and hope you enjoy this wonderful hobby! Dan
Thanks this really ruined my model Corsair. Couldn't get the garbage to come off. Now I'll have to completely sand it down ... if I can.
You didn't follow what I did then. Pay attention to where I say you have to put down a gloss varnish before you try this. This is also a clay wash so it's easy to remove.
What happens if you have not varnished first
You will have a hard time removing the wash, as it will sit in all the rough areas.
Thanks. Makes sense
Is this enemal wash?
Clay wash.
Well I tried this method with some Vallejo wash and it ruined my model. The wash won't come off and the spots where I tried to remove the wash are turning grey and milky. Not sure why this paint doesn't work but be warned. This may not work with all paints. It certainly ruined my model.
And that's why I'm very specific about what wash I'm using in this video. I don't use Vallejo washes to do this. It might work if you use Vallejo wash over a lacquer based varnish. Then you could use Vallejo thinners to remove the wash. But that's not a method I've tried before.
The only type of models that I do any kind of serious weathering to are tank models, and then just a bit. A little bit on certain ships also. I think (my opinion) is that "weathering" looks out of scale, and is way over done in the modeling world.
The beauty of the hobby is we can do what pleases ourselves. I personally weather my models to a degree that makes me happy.
I can't do that since I'm using acrylics....
I used acrylics too.
@@spruetherapy wow seriously? what is your wash made of? i would like to try again, because i tried it with vallejo acrilycs water based wash and i smudged everything lol
@@sickman5236 Before you put the wash on, make sure to varnish the paintwork. I've used Vallejo washes and then a moist paper towel to remove the excess.
@@spruetherapy I did a coat of future pledge before the wash. But to clean the wash I used a Qtip damp with Vallejo thinner instead of water... That might be my problem. I thought it was the chemicals in the wash.
@@sickman5236 Yes, the thinner will most likely eat through the Pledge.
I'm new to this but why the f... would you smear the whole thing like a brain dead person smears excrement on themselves just to deal with that whole clean up when you could've just as easily applied drops to the lines and wiped it with a thinner after?
The aim is to get recess detail into as many places as possible. In a complex kit with rivets, it's easier to put it on everywhere, especially if you want some surface weathering to remain.
@@borderlands6606 does it not sustain all the panel a little. well if you didn't apply any gloss just bare paint, or matt coat it would stain it for sure. what do you think of tamiya panel liner? i have never used panel liner or oils, i actually ordered the abteilung 502 thinner and black and raw umber or some kind of umber oil i can't remember. gina see how oils work for pin wash.
@@MF-kv8cn I make my own paints and washes. This isn't snobbery, it's because I'm cheap. A set of oils, acrylics and pastels from a bargain store, diluted with whatever thinners I have to hand, or - in the case of chalk pastels - ground to weathering powder.
Nothing against branded paints and finishes, they save time and look great when properly applied. On the other hand a £10 kit that requires £25 of paint, lacquer, decal solution, can be substituted for household products and a little imagination.
It's so much quicker to apply to the whole model and then wipe off. Plus as it's water and clay based it doesn't do that well just being applied in the panel lines. Enamel or oil based washes do better with that technique but they take quite a while to dry. But it's easier to just assume and throw out weird comparisons I guess!
Christ why does everybody moan about smells and getting grimy now, like a bunch of girls.
Or, people have health issues or others in their household that they need to consider.
@@spruetherapy Rubbish, brainwashed by the world you mean.
@@robbeard6929You seem very upset and angry at the world Rob. You should build some models, it's fun!