WET CONCRETE!!! HAD TO REJECT THE LOAD. 👎🏼
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- Опубліковано 15 жов 2023
- We tried to pour out this concrete ramp but the mud was so wet it would not work for the job. The customer was not happy as he knows what the concrete should look like. Unfortunately we had to reject the concrete and send it back to the plant.
Another contractor here to "rip" on your work. Why didn't you put some type of expansion felt or a water barrier against the metal wall panels? Those metal wall panels are guaranteed to rust out sooner than normal where the bottom is trapped by the concrete.
NEVER SHOULD HAVE DONE THAT GUARANTEE TO RUST OUT. I WOULD HAVE REFUSED TO DO THAT. NOT ACEPTABLE..THAT GUY MAY COME BACK AND SUE SAYING HE WASNT TOLD IT WOULD ROT FROM PUTTING CONCRETE NEXT TO IT..THAT IS NOT ACCEPTABLE BUILDING STANDARD ANYWHERE IN THE COUNTRY
yep and concrete hard up to the timber posts lol. guarenteed to rot unless their cypress
Glad I wasn't the only one thinking this......
Yeah ..? Im not a concrete guy but ive done a few over the years ,usually only this size +/-…the first thing i was wondering,how can it be right to have no type of barrier/expansion joint against the metal building ..had to pause to see if it was asked and answered in comments … and wow that was quite loose like mortar slurry for filling block cores lol.
Water will run down the metal and have no where to go but between the siding and the slab, wet all the time. Also I wonder about expansion and contraction against the ribs of the siding. Maybe that's what the homeowner wanted?
Any siding or post repair from here on out will be a nightmare. Not good
I'm surprised you don't wrap the posts are line the buildings with some sort of water barrier joint. Nearly every other concrete channel I watch does this... and with good reason. Perhaps you'll want to look into it. Otherwise... I love watching you dress up these properties with tastefully designed concrete-scaping.
wood posts expand and contract with moisture we usually use a foam that has a zip strip on top. After concrete has cured pull the zip strip and caulk it. at the same time i cant believe they bury wood posts in concrete and dirt. out here in california everything is sitting in a metal column base that is wetset in concrete and connected to footing.
@@bradley-concreteagreed. Wrapping these posts would have been simple and cheap to do but some people just watch a few vids and start their own company these days....... I guess
@@bradley-concrete how long do you think these posts would last like that? just curious in how much more it extends the life by doing a simple wrap.
How long does wood last in a wet condition where it can’t breath? Pressure treated would last longer but regular Doug fir could rot out in a few years.. also the expansion and contraction of the wood can crack the concrete off the posts. It’s just bad practice and I see a lot of contractors doing this pole barns that aren’t going to last too long
I wish they built out barns like that I have said that for years. @@bradley-concrete
Perfect timing on the "this is a 4 slump comment". As you say that biscuit puts his foot down and it leaves a clean edge hole the exact shape of his boot. Not used to seeing that when your pouring
Well done.👍The first load was like pump mix.
Crazzzzy 15 years always used 4 inch slump 6 sac pea gravel . Retaining Walls, driveways, piers, foundation,.. Good job on making the adjustments 👍🏾👍🏾🚨🚨
Feel you on that "figure it out on the fly" 👍🏾👍🏾
A lot of times contractors put tape and paper on the walls to help with concrete splattering on the wall. It really helps with the look of the wall when they do that.
To early here in Holland to pop a beer and watch this, so i shall enjoy it with some morning coffee!
I can never understand why ready-mix places have such frequent mess-ups with concrete slump or mixture specs. It's a pretty concluded science this stuff, and these places have all the computer controlled everything needed to make it exactly as desired.
I dont know many contractors that use their finishing tools edges to tap the forms. That guy would be looking for a new job before the screeder hit the job. My workers are told finishing tools are not hammers and its a one warning and done. NO SECOND CHANCE for that
I drive a mixer out of central PA. Sometimes when it does load wet out of the plant they will load another dry yard on top of it to dry it up. It's up to the driver to know BEFORE he leaves the plant, its cheaper to add an extra dry yard & not bill the customer for it than to have a whole load sent back & eat the cost of that.
I’m surprised they didn’t just run first truck back to plant and add a yard or two of dry mix to firm up load
That concrete was about a 6 1/2 in. like you said. I've seen 500 or more jobs just like that one with concrete just like that. Zero issues. Including that little grade. In fact 75% of the time, I showed up with that 4" slump, the crew is wetting it up to about what that first truck brought, with grades like the one here.
And many of those were the best concrete crews in the business. This would be their Saturday work for extra money.
It was a hair too wet, no doubt about it. But doable.
You're right though, the stiffer the mud, the better. Everybody was happy in the end.
Glad you got a new load real quick. Looks like you guys do good work.
Another great job.
WTH? Concrete up against the metal siding? I would reject your work and the wet concrete.
Pouring concrete against metal 😮 How long do you think before it rusts it out 😮
Where exp joint along bldg and 6”x6” columns, are u aware concrete moves????
Looks great guys. Good job. My concrete guy will have to pour in about 38 degrees here in Wa. In a week. I don’t want Calcium because it will rust the rebar and wire mesh. Plus have cracking problems
Hope he has some other kind of accelerator and hot water in there Thanks
I've started wrapping hard molded plastic on the 4x4's about 3" above ground level before concrete. Prevents water contact of the 4x4s at ground level, since that's were they tend to fail. I liberally coat the inside of molded plastic with 100% silicone, then wrap a couple rubber bands overnight to keep it tight. Your 4X4 wont fail at ground level anymore.
That wet cement, the average home owner would never put enough weight on it. I pour 5.5 to 6 all the time never have any trouble with it. Two things I find that are important keeping your metal pulled up and I cover with burlap and wet for 48 hours. Most cracking is from drying to fast and shrinking. Where water matters is like a Highway where you have 80,000 lbs. Beating on it.
Hey, Here in FL. my county you need 4ft sq. and 24 inch depth for 12k lifts. Remember where in Florida we have Sand Base or limestone so that's one of the determining factors plus hurricane rules if your building blows away your car lift is still there LOL.
circle T sent you a mike day load HMmmmm?
LOL PERFECT ! 😂🤣👍
The first batch was like self leveling concrete or used for split footings. The 6 slump is perfect for the job and perfect for slow inclines. Nice job, very nice job well done.
Thanks 😀
Your going to get flooded look at the right side of building. Damn 😊
I remember sending back 10 yds when we were pouring a drive way up hill ,,it was to wet ! Then another time we sent back 20 yds out of a 60 yd pour because the air wasnt quite right for a commercial job. When it was tested made for a very bad day !
Lots of concrete experts on here!! I see what you mean B.B.
Keyboard warriors. LOL
Doesn't take a rocket scientist to know you don't pour against tin and you always at least wrap wood posts so you don't pour up against them. Do some of you people commenting know anything about concrete!?
Those posts will rot out pretty fast, should have made a small concrete pedestal for them to sit on.
No, need a barrier against moisture. If the poles are sitting on concrete, the wood will suck moisture through the concrete due to the capillary effect.
What's fast though? In my neck of the woods a non pressure treated fence post in concrete will last around 35 years. It's probably much faster in places that stay wet most the year.
@@Zt3v3 You in Az can get away with all kinds of stuff.
@@Zt3v3wrapping it with expansion foam is quick, cheap, and easy to do and it will save that post ALOT longer
Nothing to keep the building from getting splattered, no expansion foam around the posts and you guys are pouring right against the tin siding but you think your problem is a little wet mud!?😂😂😂
Edit: you should have waited longer to broom the wet stuff so it isn't so rough and the fact that you had to come back and saw cut that little baby apron instead of just wet cutting it is a bit embarrassing .......
I'm a retired mixer driver of 39 years and I agree the mudd was wet . Did you you tell the dispatcher I need a 4" max slump are whatever slump you want that way the driver knows what slump to bring just asking?
Always check the ticket to make sure the load isn't over an hour old. That one might have been rejected on another job.
Sometimes the driver has to eat the load if they don't check it before leaving the plant.
This concrete job won't let and the wood posts and steel will rot away!!
how long you recon the posts and tin will last?
Good job Curtis Harlan
How did they set up the floor in that building?
U need to eyeball or string down your forms after concrete gets in them and straighten out the edges
Is there a reason its poured contacting the metal wall sheathing and the posts for the overhang are not elevated with a metal base?
I bet this is what causes circular cracks a month later. Too much water means it's going to shrink too much
Is it normal to pour concrete right up against the metal wall? This is a sure fire way to rust out that paneling and trap moisture - I know building code [IRC] wouldn't allow for this, but I wanted to ask.
Why do u cut it?
The mesh should be off the floor held up by small pads of hardened cement mix ?
Concrete can pull some tricks on you about it's strength. In collage I was a proctor in a soils lab. We filled test cylinders with different mixes. Some were correct and others had bad ratios. Most tested as expected. One that had too much water was one of the tested. The pressure went to the max of the press. We left it set a few seconds and it exploded. The many hundred pound press jumped off the floor. The chain enclosure kept most concrete contained.
When laboring Id watch you folks take samples, they'd always poke wet sample in those black holders with rebar a bunch. They said to release gases contained in. WTF do I know , get paid from neck down. 😅
That tin is going to rust. Why not cut it off, concrete to foundation, sealer, then flashing under tin? To do it right, I would take the tin right off, pour concrete, seal it, flashing, then reinstall tin. Just because I am fussy.
I hate seeing wood in the ground like they build these pole barns! Save a dollar today and cost you a thousand in a couple years!
No expansion on the steel?
Next time just check the water gauge on the tank immediately, if the load appears wet upon arrival,
that will tell you if you can trust the driver next time to be telling the truth. Wet loads from the plant do and will happen, but sometimes all it takes is a seconds worth of loss of attention on the drivers part to have a wet load, fronts have increased air pressure to the water tanks as a rule to aid cleaning the longer drums, which can result in water being added very quickly. I’m not saying that’s what happened here, just it does happen. If it’s the same truck back, they probably just added a dry yard to the old load to dry it up. 😉😳
I drove for a redi-mix co. For a little while , got into it with contractors climbing up the truck and adding water to the load then complaining about slump . My supervisor asked what happened i told him , very next day his son made a delivery and had same issue with that contractor, but the guy fell off and cracked his coconut and separated his shoulder i quit , $$ was good but decided over the road paid more back in the 80's
I had to send a load back today as well, first one this year. New driver read his pressure gauge wrong and put 31 gallons in 6 yards. of course it was truck 2, we ended up with a new truck but of course when you're in a hurry everything is a shit show
Your truck should've ran back to the plant and batched some dry stuff in with the remaining load
i can never understand why in so many concrete laying videos I watch that the wire mesh is sitting on the ground. The mesh provides strength to a slab if it is in about the middle if the slab. In Australia, an engineer would tell you to rip the slab up if that was done on a construction job. At least have a hook and lift it after all the workers have pressed it to ground level.
If you watch closely the guys were doing that with their come alongs
For your region are you ordering mix designs or just cement content? It would be a cool followup to get some background on how the random high slump cement shows up.
he did a video visiting the plant they usually order from, but I dunno if it answers your questions, I watched it a long time ago.
No expansion joint on post or building not a good idea .
makes my back more than it does now LOL old ex concrete guy
Closer shots while pouring and finishing will make for a better show... 👍
You don't want closer shots of this concrete😂
I had a huge dump yesterday when I got home from work...... it was about 5 slump I reckon
Looks really good brother. Great work right there from one concrete guy to another. Local 555 Cement Mason out of Portland Oregon.
If you think this is good work, then you need more training. Pouring against tin siding is stupid and not wrapping those posts is also stupid rookie shit oh and that wet mud should have sat longer before he broomed it so it wasn't so rough and hideous. Don't be proping up egos on work like this my dude.....
Personally i would have been inclined to put the wood posts up on concrete pillars instead of encasing them in the mud
Yes I agree we do not build these barns just pour the floors. I hate how they put the posts of all our barns in the ground around here. They use the ground and 4feet deep as part of the structure and they can frame them lighter. They are more cot effective but Im not a fan.
Donot the extra water go to soil?
Nice job as always
Customer wasn’t pissed. Hate click bait. I thought you were better than that Bondo.
ask for the batch weights. the driver should always check the slump after mixing, & before leaving the plant ! you guys are our pay check...thank you...& the slump buster will not correct the cement/water ratio. the concrete was not what was paid for. I hate cheaters. take it all out. GP
looking strongger, all that vitimin B = beer lol
U could see the ditch forming on the ground from water pouring off the roof why would he come out beyond that with the concrete???? I highly suggest getting a gutter or that concrete will be ruined fast! It’s like holding a pressure washer to one spot of concrete and coming back in a month to see it’s formed a hole in the concrete
How long will the posts last around the concrete?
And not to mention the walls of the adjacent building.
Just curious here, since you are close with Circle T, it would be nice to here what they did to resolve the issue. Since there was plenty of room in the mixer, did they add more dry material or did you get a new batch? Always enjoy your videos and thanks for sharing! 😁👍
If the driver notices concrete is batched too wet they will load more concrete into the truck to dry it. If he's rejected from a job they will either bin block the concrete or scrap it and load the truck again
Thanks for posting these, Bondo. I really like watching them & think you guys are doing great work.
Never mix a wet load, being a contractor you guys should have known that. Also pouring, always start at the lowest point, never the highest. Another mistake on your part. You guys very rarely use wire, why not??
couldn't the plant just add some dry mix to save the load
Why to go , all working together so all are happy.
I guess the homeowner doesnt care about the post or building because he took no measures to protect them from rot or oxidation/rust. I cant blame you because I dont know if the homeowner depended on you for advice, but apparently he knew the slump of
the mix and maybe knows what concrete can do up against buildings and wooden supports.
Could have been a little cleaner and smoother around the post base. Looks rough.
No expansion joints along the building?
I would say it would be a little tough to put expansion along that corrugated metal ! But around the exiting concrete would be an idea !
I know ! That metal will start to rust sooner too. Unfortunately placing foam against it is a pain in the backside. Definitely would wrap those post.
I want to see big biscuit pulling on a screed rod like real concrete finisher!
LOL sometimes I can get him to screed. He likes to rake the concrete most the time. .
Do you ever tape up plastic to keep the metal clean? Just trim the plastic tight to the 'crete surface the next day? I was forming some shapes under and around 4x4 posts but the posts would take a drink through the bottom end, expand and crack the 'crete! I slipped a plastic bag over the bottom end of the last post -- taped it above the pour level -- and no cracks = mo' betta'! :)
Nice idea thanks
I’m surprised you kept wall clean. Did you have to wash off concrete spatter off of siding the next day?
We always wipe anything off the same day if need be. @@ecgwyo
Ever considered throwing a helper spring on that Ford? She was sagging a bit much!
You did the ramp section, so add water to the mix so the guys are not dealing with a stiff mix on the flats. No barrier against the walls to absorb splash? Post? No wrap? It's gonna be hell when he attempts to R and R those wooden post submerged into the pad. I didn't see footers with those post, maybe I missed it.
I was hired to just pour the concrete. I did not build the barn.
Could you just add more portland cement?
That's why your work us great and high quality. You come up with a solution for problems that arise. 👍... Bill
If you think this is high quality, then you know nothing about doing concrete work. As many have said on here, pouring against that tin siding is stupid and will rust it out. Also pouring against those wood posts is stupid and will rot them out. Homeowner will be replacing all that within 10 years. This is far from high quality
I wondered if that could be done
Its so nice when you get a good driver
I would suggest to not accept a load that exceeds the design slump like that. Reject before you put any down. Plus may want to concider using a Concrete Vibrator.
I am amazed at the experts telling how to pour concrete
What is the tool Biscuit using to smooth out the limestone?
Concrete come-along...
@@TonyRule Thanks...
Nice.
I know people use metal brackets to physically separate concrete foundations from the wooden pillars.
In this case, they poured the concrete right up against the wood. Is that a problem?
If it was up to me there would be no wood ever in the ground but people around here love these pole barns with the wood poles in the ground. I do not like them but get hired to pour the floors all the time. They are cheap to build.
@@bondobuilt386They do that here too. I had to replace all the rustic log supports on two porches on two houses on my property after I bought it. Rotted All to hell. All sunk in concrete. We didn't make that mistake. Footers rule!
Yes that is a problem. A simple, easy, and quick solution is to wrap them posts with some expansion foam and problem solved....
Unless the owner gets gutters, that drip line is gonna piss him off every time, but the way you bury those posts makes me think it don't rain much where you are.
on a technical query...why is a 9 slump squishier than a 4 slump?
The higher the slump the more water is in the mix so it is wetter and not as strong. He just wanted concrete there so he could run his mower over it and not have to weed wack.
And I would have supported the roof, cut the posts off and installed adjustable galvanized post brackets in the concrete
No Asphalt strips?
Are you asking about around the posts or against the sheet metal siding form?
@@BlainsTube Against the existing slabs, and the house...
I've got a load you could replace it with😂
🤣
Boy if that post had a good Finnish on it the company would be replacing it the way the driver hit it lol
Most people I pour for want it even more Wet! Im not joking I pour for some contractors where Ill show up at a 5inch, and they add enough water themselves to turn it into a 10 inch easy!!! Thats about the slump they normally want! Its only the big contractors i pour for, State, city, big name outfits like Kewit or Hawkings that Actually care about the too much water in the load!!
Yes and that is a shame because it ruins the strength of the concrete and on residential the building inspectors do not check it at all.
Did you wait until the customer said something?
I worked for a cement company and we got 100 yards rejected got 100 yards rejected and took back to plant 10 trucks
So why did you pour so much before rejecting the load? Good way to get some free concrete. Hack job from the start.
We poured the flat area and then tried to get some slump buster for the ramp. Maybe you should watch the video before saying its a hack job.
Sometimes when it’s too wet we still pour it and let sit for a bit then we screed it(when is a small job). No need to give them a hard time plus you got plenty of people.
Wet concrete is not nearly as strong than something poured at a tighter slump. Also this is a steep ramp.
They were close to the plant. They should have mixed it for 10 or 15 minutes and it would tighten up.
@@bondobuilt386you are right on it not being as strong but if you screeded that uphill, you would have been fine.....
I wish you were there to show me how to do it that day. LOL@@87bradyman
Man, you and your crew do amazing work. Amazing
Maybe it rained hard over noght and the drum had water on it on the forst load.🤷♂️
First thing the driver is supposed to do when he finishes his pre trip is to spin the drum in discharge, just for that reason.
@@Musclecar1972 that would make sense. Maybe he missed that or the aggregate was wet. How they fix it is all the matters.
@@Woodman_Custom_Sawing Yes Sir, there can be a bunch of different reasons for a wet load, it’s not always the drivers fault, I have experience on both sides of this problem, had my own masonry business for many years, then when the body got tired, I drove front dump mixers for a long time as well. 😉
I deliver concrete. contractor starts chewing on me about wet concrete when all he told dispatch was it's a slab. everytime within 5 minutes they're wanting water added. I flat out tell them it's wet enough they don't get water. And my boss backs me up. Take out your frustrations on your crew not the driver.
We communicate with dispatch and I am real nice to all the drivers. Just gave them all a $50 hoodie. Mistakes happen in this work. We do not pour wet concrete and everyone at the plant knows that.
Customer is going to be even more pissed when those posts rot out due to you pouring the concrete right up against them.
If it was up to me the wood would never be put in the ground. the concrete will not help or hurt the posts from someday rotting out. Im not a fan of pole barns built this way
@@bondobuilt386it does hurt it because it holds moisture between the 2 so it will causes it to rot faster but customers get what they want
@@bondobuilt386wrong! The concrete will trap moisture on that wood and rot it out. Use expansion foam and wrap it twice if you want to pour around posts. Any seasoned vet knows this
Those of us contractors wizard few years under our belts can confirm that even the best treated lumber still rots out faster in concrete. Moisture gets trapped between concrete and post. Put some type of expansion around post, then seal top with good caulking. Also prevents post from swelling due to moisture and cracking concrete around post.
From disaster to delightful. Another Bondo miracle recovery. Thanks Ron. Best wishes from Philly.
Nice work brother.👍🏻🇺🇸🇺🇸
I had an apron I did, what a bizarre setup, first slab tilted down into a garage, then ramp it up to catch the next garage door, then dip down again to catch a slab under a lean-to. Front edge was all uniform and pitched down 8 inches over 40 feet the rest looked like a skate park! but smooth enough that a snowplow can follow the contour. two truckloads did the job, the first was a little high on the slump so we did the middle with that batch and the stiffer mix around the edges. On the wet mix, could you add an extra bag of portland cement to stiffen it up some?
Wow, I have been doing concrete my whole life it's a family trade. I would absolutely fire you and charge you future damages in a court. You did not protect anything. Post, barn/shed walls. Sorry bro I seen some of your videos where you do a decent job but this one is bad.
Nice little job 👍👍👍👍
Concrete right up against the siding? Doesn't seem right. Is that normal?
Not right
No it's not right and he should have also wrapped the posts with some expansion foam or anything to keep that concrete from rotting them out
Not right but it's probably what he was told and paid to do.
I did a job and when it was time to get paid was told to go pound sand. So I went and pounded sand. Make sense. I always do what the owner says. Wtf