*SHOP FOR MINI AMPS* D4S MiniMaxx Amplifiers: lddy.no/1hrle D4S MM1005 1000W 5ch Amp: lddy.no/1k2df D4S MM3000KFD 3000W Full Range Capable Monoblock Amp: lddy.no/1k2dg Elac Debut 2.0 B6.2 Bookshelf Speakers: amzn.to/3Mmdbcz SAVARD Hi-Q 6.5" Subwoofer: lddy.no/1iv98 (Use WAL7 for 7% off) See Other Mini Amp Videos: ua-cam.com/play/PLu98-M_EowHPeIJDo-ISyHCtT__PzQsDi.html VIDEO INDEX 0:00 Introduction 0:23 Unboxing MM1005 2:05 MM1005 Features 3:32 MM1005 Amp Dyno Tests (4ch) 5:28 MM1005 Amp Dyno Tests (Bridged) 6:28 MM1005 Amp Dyno Tests (Sub) 9:30 MM1005 Sound Demo 10:55 MM1005 Amp Guts 11:46 MM1005 PROS and CONS 12:40 MM3000KFD Overview 14:08 MM3000KFD Amp Dyno Tests 16:18 MM3000KFD Amp Guts 17:04 MM3000KFD PROS and CONS 18:07 EXTRAS _Note: Amps were sent from D4S for testing, but video is not sponsored by D4S. Down4Sound paid a fee to have the amps tested and shown in this video but all content was created by Williston Audio Labs without input from D4S and we show features, tests and give our honest feedback_ TEST BENCH EQUIPMENT SMD / D'Amore Engineering Amp Dyno (AD-1): is.gd/wccad1 XS Power D1400 Batteries - amzn.to/2BPFCKW XS Power PSC60 Charger - amzn.to/2CHGcfs Fluke 1000A AC/DC Clamp Meter: amzn.to/2Rw5WDA Handheld Dyno AMM-1: is.gd/wccamm1 My Favorite Precision Screwdriver Kit: amzn.to/3yAaPmn _DISCLAIMER: This video and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you purchase from one of the product links, I may receive a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. As an eBay Partner, I may be compensated if you make a purchase_
The connectors are Molex Micro-Fit 3.0. I made a set of longer shielded connectors instead of using the pigtail that came with my MM1004. It would be nice if these were available in pre-made longer lengths.
Thank you for the review and constructive criticism! We’re working on upgrading caps but man it’s such a long wait for them. Overall for the price and what people are getting I think it’s an amazing option for our budget minded bassheads 😊
That 1005 has a lot of real world application. People like me that want to upgrade their 4 factory speakers and add a sub will love this amp. Plenty of power over the stock system.
People seem to forget or not understand how much power 200 wstss actually is. We used to run entire subwoofer systems on 200 watts or less in the 80's and 90's. Crutchfield used to have an add that said "100 watts to your subwoofers is loud. 150 watts is louder. 200 is mind blowing" or something like that. It's been 30 years. Lol The point is, 200+ watts is plenty for the average person that just wants a little bump to fill in their low end. .
I absolutely agree. The market is polluted with high power claims and options, now relatively cheap. That 500-600watts will push 2 entry level 10s or 12s enough to rattle a vehicle.
I absolutely disagree. Subwoofers are less efficient nowadays. Back in those days, they had all paper cones and were much shorter excursion… what are you thinking?
As an owner of the MM1000, MM1004, and MM504 these are amazing amplifiers for the price!! Really just can’t beat the price. This 5ch easily should outperform my Rockford Fosgate P1000x5 also about a third of the price!!
I think they dont mind an honest review because they know you will put the amp through the paces, and as long as the amp is doing the numbers or more, that’s all the advertising they need
Really appreciate the lower voltage tests. Many of these modern German cars with smart charging only run 13.6-13.8v at most situations even if they have 140a+ alts from the factory
That MM1005 is really nice for a 3 way system. 500 watts into a higher efficiency sub and the right box will flex a windshield. Channels 1 to 4 have decent power too. I used to have all out systems in my vehicles. Extra batteries, alternators, caps and all. Complete compact systems are where it’s at now.
@@matthewf1979Up until fairly recently I used to always drive with a windows down and the stereo cranked. Now that I'm a bit older, I prefer keeping the windows up and playing the music at a nice moderate level. 😂
Only thing I don't like is those bright blue voltage numbers that light up your interior at night. I'd have to dim it with a piece of window tint or something. But they are extremely nice looking though.
I run a 5 channel in my daily. It's a kicker rated at 400 RMS on the sub channel. With an efficient 12 inch I score 132 db on the screen sealed at 36 Hz. That's all I need 😊
I use your videos to decide what to buy. My budget is far below average. I like to know which companies push rated power, and which don't. Maybe I'll get there eventually, but right now D4S and Skar are the winners for bass on a budget.
I’m obsessed with these mm amps!! I’m hoping to get some asap. Love that 5 channel, perfect for the Avalanche! 🎉 but the mm3000 used for a 2 ohm load at 2500 watts is an awesome setup! 🎉
Love that 5ch it sounded so good on elac and sub and the sub wasn’t all floppy and wishy washy as sometimes sounds on cheaper amps. Also that red finish is sick
I think 5channels is the way to go when it comes to not spending a butt load of money. I ran a 5ch amp in my jeep running to an eq and my Nakamichi deck.
On the stinger square positive speaker wire, grab some flush cutters, trim each corner at an angle, and the ferrules will slide completly over them:) ( or not, sorry, im just ocd😂) gr8 videos, as ALWAYS
D4S building a Legend one amp at a time. 20 years from now todays stereophiles will be talking about these in hushed reverence. Putting high quality gear out that gives you extra at that accessible price...that new and budget minded kids can get is way better than in the 90s-2000s when the good stuff was expensive. Now we can get the good stuff and grow it quickly
Just purchased the Mm504 and one of the pig tail rca's was faulty and would inly produce static and a bizzing aound. Sent it to their repair shop as a warranty defect. We will see what they say and hopefully send me aome new rca pig tail adapters.
Apparently it’s been awhile since ive watched your channel. What happened to that sound cube box? Neighbors complain too much? Thanks for sharing this. Aloha
Can’t mix up the positive and remote on that 3000KFD! Couldn’t resist 😂. They should have put RCAs on it though that pigtail on a single channel amp is tacky.
Amps have come a long ways since the old days😂. I remeber you were doing good if you paid $1.00/watt. Now at 3400 watts, thats roughly $0.10 cents/watt😊. Glad that amps are more cheaper and great quality also. Looks like a HOME RUN to me.
Jp spent the money to establish his amps and has a wide variety but all us hobbyist wish the companies would step up their repair service cause it is a pain to have to buy the same thing over when sometimes all it takes is a guy who can fix it
I just need a solid 600x6. I love my jp77 but I’m locked into the 2k sub channel. It would be amazing to get a 600x6 or 1200x6 and the sub channel becomes a field of options.
@@travissapp4273 Voltage is adjustable. Clipping is super accurate due to the internal design. Temperature accuracy is unknown. The little temperature probe changes resistance based on temperature and has it's own window of tolerance. I'd imagine it's decently close. Also keep in mind that you don't have to be super accurate when it comes to temperature. You just need a rough idea if it's hot or too hot, etc...
I like the and prefer the JP amps and his innovation and design language, however seeing the ds18 5000 watt mini amp meade tested a week or so ago I think I would only get big amp when space or aesthetics was not an issue, even though the ds18 also is not a bad looking amp.
I noticed that when the Mm1005 amp was powered up, the protect light illuminated on the amp for a brief second, but didn’t illuminate on the bass remote. Is this normal?
Yes, it's normal. The amp is showing you that the light works, now if it stayed illuminated then there might be an issue but that wasn't the case. Hope this helps, cheers....
@@jdmintegradp I would have guessed if the amp protect light came on, so would the protect light on the bass remote, since they are linked together. No?
How’s the SQ with these D4S amps? In regards to SQ brands like Focal, JL, ETC. I’m looking to replace a kenwood xr5s that sounded incredible. I currently have a couple Taramps 440/4s and while they are clear and can get down, at the higher volumes they don’t keep up with the kenwood in SQ. They get louder but they mud a bit.
The Taramps are known for their high levels of distortion. I don't have any experience with the down for sound full range class D amps, but at the same time I've never heard anybody complain about their sound quality. Hopefully some more people will chime in.
@@JasonWW2000 hey hearing taramps is known for that is helpful enough in itself. I just fixed my car after a year down with 2 4 channel pioneers on Rockford mids/highs. I need to put one of my radios in it and listen for that type of distortion. Their S/N ratio is much lower than the kenwood, so it’ll be interesting where they stand in regards to the kenwood and taramps.
I don't see people running them in specifically-designed SQ systems. For an everyday upgrade, I suspect the 5-channel would sound good, and maybe even great to someone who likes to listen to loud music and isn't going for competitive SQ. People use the D4S big-wattage amps just because they want to create a tornado outside their car, regardless of what it sounds like, nothing more; and they can do it at a low price, with the exception of the massive electrical upgrades required. I equate D4S and Taramps to tires on a performance car. They are meant for a specific purpose and you'll need to replace them more often, that's why they are so cheap. Are they going to be around 30 years from now still performing like the Fosgate, PG, & JL? If I were looking to get a 5-channel for an SQ system, I'd look at JL, Arc Audio, Hertz, etc.
@@jp1087 oh okay, that’s a great perspective, very helpful. Before stumbling on this one I was keeping my eye for a JL or RF Power. I’m interested in arc but they don’t have the right power level, but I’m glad you reminded me as that may be a god fit for my other build lol. I honestly never checked hertz figured they wouldn’t have what I want, maybe I’ll be surprised
@@IAM_HCLooking at the specs on that Kenwood it's 80w x 4 and 350w to the sub. Are you powering 4 door speakers and a sub? Is it the door speaker power you want more of or the sub power?
What amplifier should i get for the defbounce Apocalypse Series AP-M67AC 600w. I want to power a pair Also I love that you started using wire ferrules it always bugged me
Can I mail you my JBL A-1000 ? It’s rated at 600-4ohm, 1,000-2ohm, unknown voltage. Im curious if you could hook it up to a sealed sub or an exact proper matching spec ported sub because I wonder how much cleaner the sound quality will be at 4ohm . I have a kicker L7s 15” dual 4, and im considering buying another amp because they are strapable and 1200 clean watts would be nasty on the L7 im thinking 4 cubic feet net , and a 50 square inch port 22-28 inches long…. I have a 2005 c230 sport Mercedes. No folding rear seats but i have a sawsall hahahaha but seriously I can’t find a test of this amp , I want you to open it up and see what you see and hear what you hear. I’m in Little Rock Arkansas, I wonder how much shipping would be?
As always Big D, loved the video and info. I wanted to ask you a question about an amp that I'm curious about. Its the Hifonics BE35-2100.1D 35th Anniversary Edition. I was curious if you've done a dyno on it and if not, could you? The amp seems to be a lot better quality than normal and even has Tiffany style RCA's. Its a very heavy amp and would love to see the results if you wouldn't mind doing it. As always, thanks for the education.
Hahahahha nice.. me and my wife went to dunnellon high.. in 2007. Dang I miss the kp hole. .. anyways nice amp and good review as always. Might be checking out this brand.
Hey Big d, I have a question for you. If you get to it, thank you in advance. What do you think the maximum sustained temperature for the internals of a JP8? I've been doing research on it, and I really can't find a solid number. My amp is mounted in the trunk where the spare tire would be, it does have fans on it along with the fan that's in it, but in the summertime it gets kind of warm. Again thanks in advance, great video, really enjoy your content 👍
Most of the circuit board components can easily handle over 250° F. I'm thinking the lowest temperature sensitive component might be the large electrolytic capacitors. They should have a temperature rating printed on them. Usually they have a maximum temperature of 80 degrees C which is about 175 °F.
@@JasonWW2000 Thanks for the info! When I see the temperature on the bass knob get to 140° f, I usually turn the volume down a little bit let things cool.
@@Stoneman1971 Do you have a path for fresh air to get to it and for the hot air to get away? Recirculating the air in the trunk should be okay, you just don't want to mount the amp in a small covered area separate from the trunks air.
@@JasonWW2000 Yes, there is some airflow. The answer sitting where the spare tire used to be at. And then I made a new top floor for the trunk which is spaced up around the edges. There's also four 4-in computer style fans blowing on the amplifiers.
@@Stoneman1971Sounds good. Most amps have thermal protection circuits. If it detects the temperature getting too high it will either throttle back the amplifier or turn it off completely. Look and see what your amps have. That a way you'll know what to look out for.
The only number I didn't like on the 1000x5 is you peaked the amp pull at 97 amps to alternator/battery. A guy can wish that was 85 amps. That's closer to 70% of "most" alternator capacities. Damn good try tho D4S. Thumbs up from me.
For it to pull that much amperage you'd have to have all five channels wired down really low and then push all five channels to full power. That's never going to happen.
@JasonWW2000 most door speakers are 4 to 6 ohm most subs are dual 2 ohm your already there. And if parallel 2 6x9 and have a super tweeter your at 2.5 or 3 ohm
@JasonWW2000 he did 3 and 4 ohm load tests. Speakers rise and fall in resistance with use. So if you have a 3 ohm Speakers that dip to 2.25 ohm at peak it needs the 97 amps from the alternator. So you're already at the limit. Now if you had some of the 90s stuff that played at 90 or 91 dB sensitivity and was lighter and was set for 6 and 8 ohms. You would only need to run the amp at maybe 45 watts per channel so you only pull about 50 amps at the alternator.
Are you saying the subchannel shouldn't go below 4 Ohms? Most people nowadays wire their subs fairly low which is why down for sound chose to do the subwoofer channel down to one ohm.
@@JasonWW2000 no, I just wanted to point to an ohm load that the channels were both rated for so it wouldn’t skew my comparison Edit: BUT on that topic I don’t like how the industry has normalized 1 and sub-ohm loads, I get it because automotive voltage but still, it’s always going to be a ragged edge that gives amplifiers questionable lifetimes.
*SHOP FOR MINI AMPS*
D4S MiniMaxx Amplifiers: lddy.no/1hrle
D4S MM1005 1000W 5ch Amp: lddy.no/1k2df
D4S MM3000KFD 3000W Full Range Capable Monoblock Amp: lddy.no/1k2dg
Elac Debut 2.0 B6.2 Bookshelf Speakers: amzn.to/3Mmdbcz
SAVARD Hi-Q 6.5" Subwoofer: lddy.no/1iv98 (Use WAL7 for 7% off)
See Other Mini Amp Videos: ua-cam.com/play/PLu98-M_EowHPeIJDo-ISyHCtT__PzQsDi.html
VIDEO INDEX
0:00 Introduction
0:23 Unboxing MM1005
2:05 MM1005 Features
3:32 MM1005 Amp Dyno Tests (4ch)
5:28 MM1005 Amp Dyno Tests (Bridged)
6:28 MM1005 Amp Dyno Tests (Sub)
9:30 MM1005 Sound Demo
10:55 MM1005 Amp Guts
11:46 MM1005 PROS and CONS
12:40 MM3000KFD Overview
14:08 MM3000KFD Amp Dyno Tests
16:18 MM3000KFD Amp Guts
17:04 MM3000KFD PROS and CONS
18:07 EXTRAS
_Note: Amps were sent from D4S for testing, but video is not sponsored by D4S. Down4Sound paid a fee to have the amps tested and shown in this video but all content was created by Williston Audio Labs without input from D4S and we show features, tests and give our honest feedback_
TEST BENCH EQUIPMENT
SMD / D'Amore Engineering Amp Dyno (AD-1): is.gd/wccad1
XS Power D1400 Batteries - amzn.to/2BPFCKW
XS Power PSC60 Charger - amzn.to/2CHGcfs
Fluke 1000A AC/DC Clamp Meter: amzn.to/2Rw5WDA
Handheld Dyno AMM-1: is.gd/wccamm1
My Favorite Precision Screwdriver Kit: amzn.to/3yAaPmn
_DISCLAIMER: This video and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you purchase from one of the product links, I may receive a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. As an eBay Partner, I may be compensated if you make a purchase_
The connectors are Molex Micro-Fit 3.0.
I made a set of longer shielded connectors instead of using the pigtail that came with my MM1004. It would be nice if these were available in pre-made longer lengths.
Thank you for the review and constructive criticism! We’re working on upgrading caps but man it’s such a long wait for them. Overall for the price and what people are getting I think it’s an amazing option for our budget minded bassheads 😊
When you getting some quad 12 flat packs back in!
You're doing the lord's work getting us bass heads affordable power! We appreciate it!
@@THELIFEOFPRICE I love my MM504, can’t wait to upgrade to the 1005 now 😛
Jp, we need a marine version of that 1005
That 1005 has a lot of real world application. People like me that want to upgrade their 4 factory speakers and add a sub will love this amp. Plenty of power over the stock system.
Absolutely ⚡️🔊
Agreed and it should fit under most seats and be completely hidden
Nice compact size too.
Nice amplifiers 🎉😃👍⚡️
@@THELIFEOFPRICE i want a green one and my wife wants a purple one! been waiting for this test!
People seem to forget or not understand how much power 200 wstss actually is. We used to run entire subwoofer systems on 200 watts or less in the 80's and 90's. Crutchfield used to have an add that said "100 watts to your subwoofers is loud. 150 watts is louder. 200 is mind blowing" or something like that. It's been 30 years. Lol The point is, 200+ watts is plenty for the average person that just wants a little bump to fill in their low end. .
I absolutely agree. The market is polluted with high power claims and options, now relatively cheap.
That 500-600watts will push 2 entry level 10s or 12s enough to rattle a vehicle.
Yep, I was there, great times. I have the tinnitus to prove it.
I absolutely disagree. Subwoofers are less efficient nowadays. Back in those days, they had all paper cones and were much shorter excursion… what are you thinking?
Member berries gotcha
I agree!!!!!!!!
Designed with purpose designed with passion thank you again for another review of two of the products i designed with the greatest team on earth. ❤❤🎉
As an owner of the MM1000, MM1004, and MM504 these are amazing amplifiers for the price!! Really just can’t beat the price. This 5ch easily should outperform my Rockford Fosgate P1000x5 also about a third of the price!!
Deal for sure!
Actually, I think that model Rockford is going to be a little beefier - power-wise. Overall, very similar.
I think they dont mind an honest review because they know you will put the amp through the paces, and as long as the amp is doing the numbers or more, that’s all the advertising they need
Really appreciate the lower voltage tests. Many of these modern German cars with smart charging only run 13.6-13.8v at most situations even if they have 140a+ alts from the factory
That MM1005 is really nice for a 3 way system. 500 watts into a higher efficiency sub and the right box will flex a windshield. Channels 1 to 4 have decent power too.
I used to have all out systems in my vehicles. Extra batteries, alternators, caps and all. Complete compact systems are where it’s at now.
Have you gotten older and started to play your music at a lower volume? Lol
@@JasonWW2000 Hu? I can't hear you!
@@matthewf1979Up until fairly recently I used to always drive with a windows down and the stereo cranked. Now that I'm a bit older, I prefer keeping the windows up and playing the music at a nice moderate level. 😂
I love all the colors D4S provides and the very nice bass knobs that look like amps!
Only thing I don't like is those bright blue voltage numbers that light up your interior at night.
I'd have to dim it with a piece of window tint or something.
But they are extremely nice looking though.
The mm 3000 is a bad ass sub amp at 2 ohms with great efficiency , BEAST AMP
3k in 1990 you were the man.
I run a 5 channel in my daily. It's a kicker rated at 400 RMS on the sub channel. With an efficient 12 inch I score 132 db on the screen sealed at 36 Hz. That's all I need 😊
KXA800.5? I got one of those. 😄
Big D, thank you for all that you do!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
JP doesn’t let us down
This is funny because an hour before this video popped up I was looking at the blue ant matches my truck lol
As a lifepo4 user, I really do appreciate the "low" voltage tests
Been waiting for a review on the mm1005 thank you for always stressing the features and real power for dollar 💰😎
For looks & performance these d4s amps are killing it 🤙
I can't wait to do a D4S system. Love all their amps. And thanks for the info brother. Love your channel 👍
D4S has some of the best amps on the market.
Just the video I was looking for!
Unfortunately, I missed the 15% off July 4th sale. I’m sure they’ll be another for Labor Day.
I use your videos to decide what to buy. My budget is far below average. I like to know which companies push rated power, and which don't. Maybe I'll get there eventually, but right now D4S and Skar are the winners for bass on a budget.
Big D , you the man ! myself and everyone appreciates everything you do brother 🔈✊🏻
😂 Allen got his keys 🔑 lol
You mean dem what da hex wrenches?
I’m obsessed with these mm amps!! I’m hoping to get some asap. Love that 5 channel, perfect for the Avalanche! 🎉 but the mm3000 used for a 2 ohm load at 2500 watts is an awesome setup! 🎉
Honestly that 3k is perfect for single cab trucks with little space. Now we can get a lot of power without sacrificing space.
Thank you for the lower voltage tests 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Ty for lower voltage, running stock alt, upgraded battery, and during the summer running the AC I get 13.7 usually with my amps off.
Love that 5ch it sounded so good on elac and sub and the sub wasn’t all floppy and wishy washy as sometimes sounds on cheaper amps. Also that red finish is sick
Down for sound for the win!!!
D4S make great amps for good price and quality
I think 5channels is the way to go when it comes to not spending a butt load of money. I ran a 5ch amp in my jeep running to an eq and my Nakamichi deck.
Bad ass little amps!!
down for sound finally making me happy with the variety
On the stinger square positive speaker wire, grab some flush cutters, trim each corner at an angle, and the ferrules will slide completly over them:) ( or not, sorry, im just ocd😂) gr8 videos, as ALWAYS
Nice performance....respect
Thumb up 4 your work...
I love it🥳👍🆙️
love the videos.. also, i appreciated the low voltage tests..
you can disassemble and flip that remote, right?
Me literally looking at this amp to put in my daughter's Honda Accord LOL.
D4S building a Legend one amp at a time.
20 years from now todays stereophiles will be talking about these in hushed reverence.
Putting high quality gear out that gives you extra at that accessible price...that new and budget minded kids can get is way better than in the 90s-2000s when the good stuff was expensive.
Now we can get the good stuff and grow it quickly
Just purchased the Mm504 and one of the pig tail rca's was faulty and would inly produce static and a bizzing aound. Sent it to their repair shop as a warranty defect. We will see what they say and hopefully send me aome new rca pig tail adapters.
HOLE LOT OF POWER,...Nice little 5 Chanel
That 5 channel amp is so tempting for me. It’d work with my van’s system just right!
I wouldn't waste time,money, n effort for 100 watts.
1005...Be good 👍 for a second set of 6.5 or 6x9 all the way around and add an 8 or small 10 sub... good blended system 🎉
agreed and this is all the upgrade a lot of people want or need
@@wal Yes 👍 Sir...
@@wal Yes 👍 Sir...
Apparently it’s been awhile since ive watched your channel. What happened to that sound cube box? Neighbors complain too much?
Thanks for sharing this. Aloha
id love to see more five channels tested
including the stinger and new hifonics units
thanks for getting on them for using crappy caps.
While JL Audio is using YUSCON caps in their amplifiers. Not as good as they use to be, but only time will tell when my JD500/1 gives up the ghost.
Thanks for doing these tests! JP1.2z3 next??
It is upcoming, may be several weeks but yeah 🤙
It’s on the way along with a bunch of other new releases 😊😊
Can’t mix up the positive and remote on that 3000KFD! Couldn’t resist 😂. They should have put RCAs on it though that pigtail on a single channel amp is tacky.
SWEET🎉LOVE THE AMPLIFIERS 😃👍
Amps have come a long ways since the old days😂. I remeber you were doing good if you paid $1.00/watt. Now at 3400 watts, thats roughly $0.10 cents/watt😊. Glad that amps are more cheaper and great quality also. Looks like a HOME RUN to me.
J.Price 4 the win!👍
Thanks for dyno test to share information but you can tell in more details like revile mosfets or ic for input and output section❤❤
Jp spent the money to establish his amps and has a wide variety but all us hobbyist wish the companies would step up their repair service cause it is a pain to have to buy the same thing over when sometimes all it takes is a guy who can fix it
I just need a solid 600x6. I love my jp77 but I’m locked into the 2k sub channel. It would be amazing to get a 600x6 or 1200x6 and the sub channel becomes a field of options.
Damn awesome power and price.
I bought one of the 1005 to put in my semi truck along with four 8-in Hexacones and a Hannibal 12
Bud I could use that 5ch amp in my minivan. What are you gunna do with that amp after the test bud .
Always wonder about the volts for ppl with normal cars
I have the 1500w one, it gets terribly hot fast. In my trunk it his 160° in 5 minutes in the heat of the day.
Just as a suggestion. When you test amps that come with these type of bass knobs, test the accuracy of the knob as well.
Do you mean the accuracy of the voltmeter? These bass knobs have an adjustment screw so you can adjust it however you want.
@@JasonWW2000 Yes the accuracy of them. How accurately they read the voltage, temperature and clipping point.
@@travissapp4273 Voltage is adjustable.
Clipping is super accurate due to the internal design.
Temperature accuracy is unknown. The little temperature probe changes resistance based on temperature and has it's own window of tolerance. I'd imagine it's decently close. Also keep in mind that you don't have to be super accurate when it comes to temperature. You just need a rough idea if it's hot or too hot, etc...
Those bass remotes are so awesome that they made Big D. I dont like those inputs, tho. They could have made those a better connection in my book.
It's one of the drawbacks to having a small amp. Unless they remove some of the crossover functions, you just can't fit it all on the amp
@wal oh I know, anymore it's just the overall designs of them.
Make the amp slightly bigger then
Thumbs up smashed!
Great amplifiers.
I appreciate the lower voltage ratings; PHEV's don't maintain 14.4V, so it's good to know.
Pig tail rca not bad easily replaced if lost or broken.
Jp1.2z3 is next ??? I would love to see u dyno , I think 🤔 this amp is going to be a beast
I like the and prefer the JP amps and his innovation and design language, however seeing the ds18 5000 watt mini amp meade tested a week or so ago I think I would only get big amp when space or aesthetics was not an issue, even though the ds18 also is not a bad looking amp.
Love how they Amps look and all but to many people say plus what I’ve seen that they overheat to much
that 1005 looks about perfect for a Punch 12 @ 1Ohm atleast
We want see a DD Audio M2500
only show nine colours on the box. black and gloss black i think was the extra choice.
Hopefully they get into powersports grade water rated amps soon would be big sellers for guys with sxs
I think those are coming later this year
By the end of the year they should start dropping 😊
Thanks
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Bro thank you so much keeping me updated on the good stuff sending mad respect love k|go it up
Thinking about buying this to replace the Kicker Key in my wife’s Gladiator…she wants to add a sub and wants it louder
You don't mind losing the DSP functions? Or do you plan to add a separate DSP?
@@JasonWW2000 she has the stinger high 10 installed….might add of separate dsp she wants it louder
Thanks for the vid. Please don't turn into a D4S ad channel...
tried looking for them in uk there not available at a reasonable price
the nice and easy way to upgrade a stock system, without going nuckin futtz....
I noticed that when the Mm1005 amp was powered up, the protect light illuminated on the amp for a brief second, but didn’t illuminate on the bass remote. Is this normal?
Yes, it's normal. The amp is showing you that the light works, now if it stayed illuminated then there might be an issue but that wasn't the case. Hope this helps, cheers....
@@jdmintegradp I would have guessed if the amp protect light came on, so would the protect light on the bass remote, since they are linked together. No?
How’s the SQ with these D4S amps? In regards to SQ brands like Focal, JL, ETC. I’m looking to replace a kenwood xr5s that sounded incredible. I currently have a couple Taramps 440/4s and while they are clear and can get down, at the higher volumes they don’t keep up with the kenwood in SQ. They get louder but they mud a bit.
The Taramps are known for their high levels of distortion. I don't have any experience with the down for sound full range class D amps, but at the same time I've never heard anybody complain about their sound quality. Hopefully some more people will chime in.
@@JasonWW2000 hey hearing taramps is known for that is helpful enough in itself. I just fixed my car after a year down with 2 4 channel pioneers on Rockford mids/highs. I need to put one of my radios in it and listen for that type of distortion. Their S/N ratio is much lower than the kenwood, so it’ll be interesting where they stand in regards to the kenwood and taramps.
I don't see people running them in specifically-designed SQ systems. For an everyday upgrade, I suspect the 5-channel would sound good, and maybe even great to someone who likes to listen to loud music and isn't going for competitive SQ. People use the D4S big-wattage amps just because they want to create a tornado outside their car, regardless of what it sounds like, nothing more; and they can do it at a low price, with the exception of the massive electrical upgrades required. I equate D4S and Taramps to tires on a performance car. They are meant for a specific purpose and you'll need to replace them more often, that's why they are so cheap. Are they going to be around 30 years from now still performing like the Fosgate, PG, & JL? If I were looking to get a 5-channel for an SQ system, I'd look at JL, Arc Audio, Hertz, etc.
@@jp1087 oh okay, that’s a great perspective, very helpful. Before stumbling on this one I was keeping my eye for a JL or RF Power. I’m interested in arc but they don’t have the right power level, but I’m glad you reminded me as that may be a god fit for my other build lol. I honestly never checked hertz figured they wouldn’t have what I want, maybe I’ll be surprised
@@IAM_HCLooking at the specs on that Kenwood it's 80w x 4 and 350w to the sub.
Are you powering 4 door speakers and a sub?
Is it the door speaker power you want more of or the sub power?
Yea boi
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What amplifier should i get for the defbounce Apocalypse Series AP-M67AC 600w.
I want to power a pair
Also I love that you started using wire ferrules it always bugged me
Can I mail you my JBL A-1000 ? It’s rated at 600-4ohm, 1,000-2ohm, unknown voltage. Im curious if you could hook it up to a sealed sub or an exact proper matching spec ported sub because I wonder how much cleaner the sound quality will be at 4ohm . I have a kicker L7s 15” dual 4, and im considering buying another amp because they are strapable and 1200 clean watts would be nasty on the L7 im thinking 4 cubic feet net , and a 50 square inch port 22-28 inches long…. I have a 2005 c230 sport Mercedes. No folding rear seats but i have a sawsall hahahaha but seriously I can’t find a test of this amp , I want you to open it up and see what you see and hear what you hear. I’m in Little Rock Arkansas, I wonder how much shipping would be?
As always Big D, loved the video and info. I wanted to ask you a question about an amp that I'm curious about. Its the Hifonics BE35-2100.1D 35th Anniversary Edition. I was curious if you've done a dyno on it and if not, could you? The amp seems to be a lot better quality than normal and even has Tiffany style RCA's. Its a very heavy amp and would love to see the results if you wouldn't mind doing it. As always, thanks for the education.
14:16 that is gets me very nervous!
5 channel would be great for a "normal" install...is it class D ?
yes, Class D across all 5 channels
Hahahahha nice.. me and my wife went to dunnellon high.. in 2007. Dang I miss the kp hole. .. anyways nice amp and good review as always. Might be checking out this brand.
I love down 4 sound audio 😊
Hey Big d, I have a question for you. If you get to it, thank you in advance. What do you think the maximum sustained temperature for the internals of a JP8? I've been doing research on it, and I really can't find a solid number. My amp is mounted in the trunk where the spare tire would be, it does have fans on it along with the fan that's in it, but in the summertime it gets kind of warm. Again thanks in advance, great video, really enjoy your content 👍
Most of the circuit board components can easily handle over 250° F. I'm thinking the lowest temperature sensitive component might be the large electrolytic capacitors. They should have a temperature rating printed on them. Usually they have a maximum temperature of 80 degrees C which is about 175 °F.
@@JasonWW2000
Thanks for the info! When I see the temperature on the bass knob get to 140° f, I usually turn the volume down a little bit let things cool.
@@Stoneman1971 Do you have a path for fresh air to get to it and for the hot air to get away? Recirculating the air in the trunk should be okay, you just don't want to mount the amp in a small covered area separate from the trunks air.
@@JasonWW2000 Yes, there is some airflow. The answer sitting where the spare tire used to be at. And then I made a new top floor for the trunk which is spaced up around the edges. There's also four 4-in computer style fans blowing on the amplifiers.
@@Stoneman1971Sounds good. Most amps have thermal protection circuits. If it detects the temperature getting too high it will either throttle back the amplifier or turn it off completely. Look and see what your amps have. That a way you'll know what to look out for.
You've always been a D4S pusher 🤣 No hate! I hear they're really good! That 10005 was impressive as hell for staying @ or >100amps
The only number I didn't like on the 1000x5 is you peaked the amp pull at 97 amps to alternator/battery. A guy can wish that was 85 amps. That's closer to 70% of "most" alternator capacities. Damn good try tho D4S. Thumbs up from me.
For it to pull that much amperage you'd have to have all five channels wired down really low and then push all five channels to full power. That's never going to happen.
@JasonWW2000 most door speakers are 4 to 6 ohm most subs are dual 2 ohm your already there. And if parallel 2 6x9 and have a super tweeter your at 2.5 or 3 ohm
@@kyleteal5888I'm not sure what you mean by "already there".
@JasonWW2000 he did 3 and 4 ohm load tests. Speakers rise and fall in resistance with use. So if you have a 3 ohm Speakers that dip to 2.25 ohm at peak it needs the 97 amps from the alternator. So you're already at the limit. Now if you had some of the 90s stuff that played at 90 or 91 dB sensitivity and was lighter and was set for 6 and 8 ohms. You would only need to run the amp at maybe 45 watts per channel so you only pull about 50 amps at the alternator.
@@kyleteal5888You're way overthinking everything. If you want to draw less amperage from your electrical system, turn your volume down.
I’ve been hearing a lot about eleven audio not too sure if you have heard about it I would love to see your review some of their amps
I enjoy your videos on all the different things that you do. Hope you have a great day
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Hello, could you try a Brazilian POWERUS 2500.1 amplifier. thank you
Shark industries 3k. Nice amp
Such an odd choice. The sub channel should have more like 500w @4 ohm if the others are 80w…
Are you saying the subchannel shouldn't go below 4 Ohms? Most people nowadays wire their subs fairly low which is why down for sound chose to do the subwoofer channel down to one ohm.
@@JasonWW2000 no, I just wanted to point to an ohm load that the channels were both rated for so it wouldn’t skew my comparison Edit: BUT on that topic I don’t like how the industry has normalized 1 and sub-ohm loads, I get it because automotive voltage but still, it’s always going to be a ragged edge that gives amplifiers questionable lifetimes.
Anything D4S i expect to have some extra beans hidden somewhere
That little 5 channel amp is not just a little more bump. Set up correctly that's a loud system.
👍👍