2001 - 2005 Honda Civic Combination Exhaust Manifold Catalytic Converter Replacement
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- Опубліковано 24 сер 2024
- This video demonstrates how to replace the combination catalytic converter exhaust manfold on your 2001-2005 Honda Civic equipped with the 1.7 liter engine. My manifold always had exhaust leaks that you could smell and hear and despite repeated repairs and re-welding of the manifold that the previous fixes were unsucessfull. I decided to replace the entire assembly. Total time to complete the job was approximately 1 hour.
Thank you. My catalytic converter/exhaust manifold has a MASSIVE crack in it and I didn’t notice until I flashed LED lights on it.
I’ve been having hard starts, idling rough, sputtering, loss of gas mileage, and this is definitely a the cause of it. Thank you so much. This is extremely helpful.
Glad to see it's a fairly easy job. Reviving my 05 Civic that's been sitting on the lawn for the past 4 years. It's had a crack in the manifold forever now, it's about time I fix it before I sell it. Thanks for the video!
Yes thankfully its a super easy job. Good luck on your fix. Liquid wrench is your friend!
Currently wanting to bash my head in because the last nut I need to take off the catalytic converter/exhaust manifold is rounded off, been at this for 3 days. Other than that, video itself has been super helpful!
Glad im not the only one. Wish it wasn’t us.
Any updates
@@uneducatedEntrepreneur managed to get the bolt off with enough effort and installed the new cat, but the car started overheating 2 months later, so I’m working on fixing that now. It’s been delegated to my second car now 🥲
You're a great guy for making this video, for all of us who also must replace these parts. HOWEVER, I've been fighting with the plugs, on the pair of upstream O2 sensors, for DAYS now and CANNOT get them to come undone!!
You make it all look too easy, did it all too quickly, and had your hands in the way, so we have NO IDEA what you ACTUALLY DID to remove and disconnect the sensors, from the wiring harness.
Did you ever get the plugs off ? There’s a plastic tab on the plug you just push in on and pull out on the plug.
Hi Wayne, my apologies for not replying sooner. I'm sure you've got this job done already but I thought I'd reply anyways. The problem with being a one man show when making these videos is being unable to get the best camera views to show how to take certain things apart. To get the connector to slide off the bracket you lift the tab up inside where the metal bracket go into the plug and give it a tug and it comes right off. No fighting or black magic of any sorts to get it off. To get the plug halves to come apart firmly press the release button and wiggle the two connector halves apart. Again a very straightforward process.
Thank you SO SO SO much for this video! I am not good with cars, so any repair that I must do on my car, I always look it up on UA-cam. Your video is the ONLY ONE on UA-cam that I've found that details this whole process for this model.
Good content, I'm about to tackle the same job in a bit for a customer, thanks.
you're most welcome. Hope it all works out for you.
the engine bay is really clean.
Thanks! All my engines are always this clean. I can't stand working on dirty engines and cars.
It's too bad there aren't aftermarket companies that specialize in fixing engineering flaws in parts like this. (Like the aftermarket suspension and radio market does!) I'd pay a bit more over OEM to know the problem has been corrected. Great vid as always!
Dorman sells a CARB-compliant cat (673-608) that includes a 5 year/50k mile warranty and costs less than OEM. Might be worth checking out.
Thanks for sharing that. I considered the Dorman one as well BUT I've read lots of horror stories and heard of a lot of complaints about aftermarket cats not holding up to the same emission standards as the genuine cat. The Honda one is SO CHEAPLY made that they should be ashamed of themselves for making such a junky part that costs nearly $1000 to buy!
@@piercedasian Thanks for this video! I just checked with the Honda dealer here in Virginia and the combo is just under $1,300. So maybe the prices vary a lot depending on where you live. The dealer said it would take a week to get the part. This is Monday and I need the car running for a trip on Friday. The Dorman one is available much faster (and cheaper) than original Honda. Where did you see issues with the Dorman has problems?
I didn't get the chance to say this before but *thank you for making this awesome VIDEO!* This helped me big time! Excellent directions and explanations. Thank you so much. I really appreciated your assistance and help. 👍👍
You’re most welcome. Thanks for watching. Share this vid with your friends and consider subscribing!
Thank you so much for this I couldn't afford to pay the labor on this job and needed a little step by step instruction. I used a
1A AUTO brand one made by cateran. Probably Chyna made. I will update this comment if the part didn't work out. Thanks again.
Thanks for stopping by!
Is it holding up and pass smog? I need to replace mine soon😢
Hey man, thanks for the great vid. Now I feel like I need to go out and do some good today. Right after I crush my manifold job. Thank you and be well.
Any time
Simple instructions but thorough as well. Thank you
You're most welcome!
Thank you for making this video i replaced mine with an amazon cat for cad$130. Seems to be doing well. My 23yo civic with 400k kms is smoother than my co workers 2021 kia soul 😅😅😅😅
Wonder why not trying to weld the crack when the manifold is bolted to the engine. This way the manifold is in it's "stressed" shape. Also I saw somewhere people drilling a small hole at the end of the crack to prevent it from propagating. I'm not a welder nor a mechanic, I'm just wondering.
I considered that and even tried but the crack kept coming back. I tried everything in my powers to NOT have to spend nearly $1000 on a replacement manifold but alas my previous attempts were futile. Since the new cat was installed the car has run great and it hasn't given me any grief since.
You make it look so simple getting the three nuts off the manifold. I noticed that access to the far right nut was impeded by the alternator. I tried to get a socket securely seated, but I couldn't quite get it, and rounded the nut when I tried to pop it. Now I have to pull the alternator to try and get access to remove the rounded nut. Total pain in the butt.
It really is quite simple permitted you have the right tools and that the fasteners are well lubricated and not seized. The intent of my videos isn't to deceive the complexity of the job. I have basic tools to do the work and in the end it could be pure luck that my bolts came out as smoothly as they did. But yeah that far right nut is a bit of challenge - I don't deny that but it does come out with enough coaxing.
I'm working on the exhaust on my 2007 Honda Fit. My odyssey began with the center exhaust pipe cracking all the way through in a clean circle *just* downstream of the resonator. The nuts and bolts at the cat-to-center-pipe joint are unrecognizable as nuts and bolts (due to rust), so I decided to replace the cat. The Fit has a more traditional separate cat and exhaust manifold (and the engine is reversed from the '01-'05 Civic -- the exhaust manifold is against the firewall rather than against the radiator). Well, now I've sheared off one of the bolts between the cat and the exhaust manifold, and the other is likely to shear off as well. So I ordered a new (genuine Honda) exhaust manifold... I hope my manifold comes off as easily has yours on your Civic. I have a friend (who mostly works on Ford trucks and such rather than Hondas) who told me all kinds of exhaust manifold horror stories (mostly studs broken off flush with the cylinder head...). I'm crossing my fingers... (Once the old manifold is out of the car, I may eventually be able to salvage it by drilling out the sheared-off bolt(s) at the exit flange. But in the name of expediency, I decided to order a new manifold so that I can get the car back on the road more quickly...)
Wish me luck! Thanks for your video!!!
This guy has had that manifold on and off several times and each time he oiled and used anti seize. Yours will not come off this easily I can pretty much guarantee that.
Well, removing the old exhaust manifold on my 2007 Fit wasn't trivial, but it actually went fairly well. A friend with American car experience (probably all with cast iron exhaust manifolds) told me it was an impossible job and that I might as well just set fire to the car and collect the insurance money! LOL! But the Fit (and most Hondas?) has a stainless steel exhaust manifold. So it went pretty well for me. Thank goodness! And I installed a brand new manifold to replace it (since one of the exit flange bolts sheared-off and I didn't want to spend a lot of time trying to remove it right now -- I needed to get the car back on the road ASAP).
Rock 'n Roll!
Yikes, my response is super late but that sucks nuts (not pun intended). Rust is the bane of any mechanics existence but unfortunately we have to deal with it in whatever manner is necessary. The trick is using lots and lots and lots of penetrating lube over the course of several days. I've found that if I spray a good quality penetrating lube and give the part that needs to be dissembled a few good whacks with a hammer and then more penetrating lube that it makes things come apart a lot easier.
Ah while you're comment on having the manifold on and off several times that the first time taking it off wasn't too bad. Similar to my comment above, I had used a tremendous amount of penetrating lube and "snap action" breaking of the nuts and bolts to get the parts free. Lower manifold bolts that were made of steel going into steel were removed again with a lot of lube and impact gun. Overall it wasn't too bad and during reassembly that I used lots of anti-seize to ensure future removals were much easier.
Glad you got this all figured out. Honda manifolds I've found aren't too bad to remove (unless you live in the rust belt). Lots of lube and patience usually gets the job done right.
Just bought one from 1aauto for 199.00 with a heat shield and a 5 year warranty, I haven't installed it yet but I've already got a check engine light so I do not care about that. We do not have emissions testing in Michigan so that is not a concern either
I wish we could but cat manifold combination units here for so cheap. Sadly in Canada everything is expensive.
Okay I'm gonna have my catalyst converter inspected tomorrow.
Yeah sometimes inspections will catch them if they’re obvious but if they’re on the underside of the manifold then it is harder to catch.
Well done. You did a great job
Thank you!
Rock Auto - $202 + about $80 shipping to Canada.
How do I get this exact wire harness for a M/T my wiring harness is missing the secondary o2 sensor wire
Thank you for the nice video brother, I also have manifold cracked same as you showed, i would like to ask you if I replace manifold with a header is it a good idea?
The problem with installing headers on this specific civic is where would you have a cat converter on the car? Headers are typically reserved for the cars where the cat is further downstream. In my particular civic's case the only logical option that I had while maintaining proper emissions controls is to use the factory cat.
My god, you’re Canadian 🇨🇦
is that a good thing or a bad thing?
Thank you so much 🙏 you saved my life
Glad I was able to save your life!
I had the same problem, decided to weld my manifold temporarily before i save enough to buy a new cat. My question is, my o2 sensors are both black on the ends, do I need to replace these as well or are they reusable? Thanks!
No need to replace the o2 sensors unless you're throwing a check engine code OR if the car has super high miles. O2 sensors are technically a maintenance item and DO wear out over time and wear out faster if your car has operational issues like burning oil or coolant (contamination of the exhaust stream). I am at 342,000 kms and I still run the original sensors with zero issue. Black buildup is normal assuming your car is in decent operating condition.
Great Video Thanks for your information, I'm ready to tackle it too.
Hopefully you were able to get this fixed on your own!
I think your motor is not the 1.7L with variable valve timing option. My VVT 1.7L has a different manifold for more mid range. Wish you could have purchased the upgrade as it really helps
from 3500 on up being an interference manifold. Next time a manifold is warped take it to a machine shop and have them mill it flat for $85 US and you will not have the cracking. Another possible cure is to cut the mounting flange of the manifold between the 2 & 3rd pipe and that should take care of the uneven expansion and cracking. Did that on a Mitsubishi 1500 manifold Mirage with good results. If an oxygen sensor at the manifold close to the head is not correct, that will cause the manifold to get too hot and warp.
You are correct, since this is a Canadian LX edition that it comes with the non-VTEC motor. Only the Si's came with the 1.7 VTECs and the SiR's came with the 2 liter high output variant. Good tips on the manifold fix. Never crossed my mind to fix it that way.
Where is the EGR valve on this model?
The EGR on these models are generally located directly to the left of the valve cover.
Hey I installed a new catalytic converter manifold lx but now I’m smoking from my o2 sensor area and my headers are cherry red
Whoa that's not right. Where did you get the cat converter from and was your engine running properly prior to this replacement? Cats that run cherry red are often a result of unburned fuel getting the cat. I'd identify the problem of why your motor is dumping raw fuel into the cat before continuing to drive the car.
Isn't the Honda OEM catalytic as bought from the dealer.. Priced at MORE than your old car is actually Worth ??
I have a 2016 CRV. Is the procedure the same?
I see you're a man of culture. I also own a Crx Lol
I love the crx! She’s mostly a garage queen and She only sees road time under the most perfect condition.
You'll have less trouble, with exhaust manifold cracks, if you leave its heat shield OFF, allowing the metal to better "breath".
Also, what happened to the two exhaust manifold BOLTS, the holes for which clearly are visible, when the manifold is separated from the head?
I'm not sure if leaving the shield off would help much since these manifolds are so terribly made.
The manifold bolts were reinstalled in the head. No missing parts. Trust me on that one. I'm too anal to leave parts missing on my cars.
you're a king thank you so much.
You're welcome!
I was watching this video after already having bought my replacement Catalytic converter. I realized midway through that mine was relatively cheap. That being said, how do you feel about the Evan Fischer catalytic coverter/exhaust manifold combos? Is installing one going to cause me issues later on?
Cheap doesn't always translate to being bad. The problem with "inexpensive" cats is that they sometimes lack the build quality (not that the Honda one is "great") and more importantly is that they do not contain enough of the catalyst material (platinum and palladium) needed to properly lower emissions level to what the manufacturer designed it for. I've heard LOTS of great things about Walker cats but I don't have access to them here so rather than me hunting high and low for a substitute that I don't know will work properly that I opted to pay a lot more to get a Honda approved one. My pocket book suffered a lot but it's been many years and a lot of miles with ZERO emissions related problems. Only way to determine if yours is good is to either ask in a forum on the quality of yours, return it for a Honda one or just install it to try and see if you pass an emissions test.
Yea my cat I could tell was going bad on my 05 civic it would reach 80 with the pedal all the way down then when I slightly let go of the gas it just darted out with some power it was weird. Can’t wait to get my new cat Wednesday can’t wait to get full power again my car has 160k I guess that cat was done.
it's really interesting how cats fail. Knock on wood that I have never had a cat fail on me. My civic has 365, 000kms on it and runs like a champ and barely eats any oil. Replaced the cat around 275, 000kms and its been great!
Hello, just found out today that my exhaust manifold has a crack in it. Now, where I live there are no emissions, I know that the leak will eventually get worse along with the gas mileage. But, my question is, can I buy the cheap converter?
While you COULD buy a cheap converter that just remember that your emissions could be elevated (bad for environment if you care) and your car's performance may not be optimal as I believe the catalyst has to have a certain efficiency performance threshold such that the car's emission control systems can dial in the right ratio of fuel/air mixture to get best performance.
I have three Civics, 2001 EX, 2002 EX, and 2004 LX, the LX has a manifold/Cat combo, the others don't, looks like they have a header design, puzzled why Honda did that. Is it the yr model that makes the diff or the LX vs EX? If I look up a manifold for 2001 to 2005 it shows the Cat design only. FYI Make sure you replace that cam plug if you own one of these, your trans will take an oil bath if you don't.
Ah yes... so the easiest way to tell which cat/header combo is to look at the motor and establish whether or not it has v-tec. The 1.7 literals NON-VTEC DX, LX, EX models (In Canada at least) used the cat combo and the Si and the Acura EL's used the header/ downpipe cat setup. In Canada the Si is the EX in the US, the LX here is the EX in the US and the DX I believe is the DX. The Si in the USA is the SiR in Canada.
If the cat was still good another option would have been to have the manifold machined flat again. Save the customer a boat load of $, especially on such an older vehicle.
yes that is definitely and option. I considered having a welding shop properly re-weld the crack in the metal and re-true the flange but given how much shops in my neck of the wood cost and the time I'd need to drive it across town to have it done that I just said forget it and bought a new genuine honda one. Been years since I did this swap and so far so good!
how much did you pay for a oem piece, that had to be the same price of what the car is worth
Hi thanks for this very I formative video. Which dealer did you buy it from? The one I just called charging too much around $2k only for the cat.
I bought from a local Alberta acura dealer because strangely they were cheaper than honda for the same exact part. Back when I did this video the cat was something wild already at a cost of $1200-1300? The parts guy cut me a deal and sold this to me for around $1100 all in with taxes. They're $2000 now? Jeepers!
@@piercedasian yup 2k...hmm let me try Acura, thanks
If only Honda engineers would have design the cat and manifold in two parts..
They do on some other higher end models. For example the Civic Si has a separate cat and manifold and the older civics (88-91) all had heavy duty cast iron manifolds and well made cats. They just don't make em' like they used to!
outstanding job
thanks!
Can i do the same procedure for 2007 honda civic hybrid?
Not sure about the civic hybrid but the general layout of all Hondas are extremely similar. If it look nearly the same then odds are its the same.
After removing and after re install my car has a purr feeling to it kinda like a vibration you can feel it when you’re in the car and can kinda hear ir
That's just low idle and how the harmonics of the engine is playing with the car's chassis. Mine does that too. No cause for concern.
I've got a Honda Civic 2001 and if I understand this correctly, these all have the same issue with the manifold cracking in the exact same spot due to the manifold not being level and/or warping shortly after replacement. Meaning, your Exhaust manifold/catalytic converter is going to crack in the exact same spot again within 6 months to 1 year or so. Is this correct?
I was thinking of using an exhaust wrap (Titanium Lava Fiber) and stainless steel wrap ties to avoid having to replace the same part again due to it cracking in the same spot eventually. What are your thoughts about that? My thinking is that if it cracks the crack will be somewhat sealed by the exhaust wrap and it will last a bit longer.
Mike your thinking does make sense and whether a new cat will crack or not is dependent on a few things such as if your head is warped or whether or not the new manifold was welded poorly (they all kinda are crappily made with overtly thin stamped steel). Here's the thing I've noticed when I put a new manifold on. Its been at least 50,000kms already and the new cat is holding up perfectly I suspect that by the time the 2nd cat cracks that the car's life would be close to the end anyways. I've been paying close attention to any exhaust leaks and so far none in the years since replacement. Cracks unfortunately don't always form in the same place. I've seem the break at weld seams, runner joints, it is completely random and it is because of the uneven heating and cooling of the manifold + cheap materials used. Exhaust wrapping it could work on an existing cat but if you had a new cat I wouldn't bother until it cracked again. The warp on my particular cat with the flange plate that bolted up to the motor. Placing it on a flat surface it was evident that it was bowed or something weird was going on. The new cat's flange is straight and true and screwing it onto the engine block at the time I distinctly remember seeing it mate up PERFECTLY to my cylinder head which means that my head obviously wasn't warped as bad as the old flange. That being said, the old cat despite repeated reweld fixes didn't work b/c I would weld the manifold out of car when the flange was "unloaded". This basically allowed the small crack to close up making a proper weld difficult. When the repaired manifold was put back onto the car and bolted up snugly then it would pull the bow out of the flange which then "stretches" the metal on the repaired section which means it will crack again. After repeated fixes I gave up and said screw it, put a new one in and I haven't looked back at it.
If you get the exhaust wrap for cheap I'd say go for it. I was too lazy to bother with ours and just opted to shell out the funds to buy new - no regrets and the car runs like a champ at 330, 000+kms.
@@piercedasian > Thank you. Much appreciated. I'm thinking since I bought a new maniford/cat for Honda Civic 2001 that I will just install the new one without wrapping it as long as the flange and head is not warped. Thanks again.
Question- do you know if manifold catalytic converters are also being stolen during the pandemic? If not, can I install one on my car to increase protection?
great iob,thanks.
You're welcome!
I need to change mine but I don’t know where to buy one from ? Any suggestions
All you had to do was take that heat shield off run the car and get the manifold hot and weld that crack while bolted up on the car and hot then that bow would straighten out
I really considered that BUT that is risky since the fuel system is in such close proximity. Those braver than me can do that but I refused to take the risk of burning my car up in my garage.
hey is there a reason you didnt weld anything my mechanic shop thinks i have to weld it on
The 12mm nuts at the top are seized on pretty tight for me. I’ve soaked them PB Blaster a few times with no luck. Would it be safe to hit them with a propane torch for a little bit?
I find the best way to get off seized nuts is to use penetrating lube (try liquid wrench I find it works better) and then after soaking for a few hours or days get a long wrench on it and give a quick "blow" or smack with your hand. If you hear it "creak" then apply more lube and then retighten the nut or bolt a tiny bit and walk away. Repeat this process repeatedly until you're able to work the fasteners loose. I wished I filmed the impossible spark plug removal on an old Honda I just worked on last week. The plugs legit couldn't be removed by me or 2 other shops and I took a different approach to get the plugs out and guess what? I got ll the plugs out with ZERO damage. Just took patience, a good amount of liquid wrench and patience of going back and forth to let the penetrant work properly.
Do you remember if all three nuts for the manifold are the same exact nut?
they are the same exact nut with I believe 2 of the bottom ones are bolts that are also the same. All use a 12mm head.
I think I either lost one or it was missing one. Do you know where I could find a new one?
easiest place to get one is the local honda dealership or rock auto.
Excellent video well done
Thank you very much!
Do you think you could have used a belt sander to flatten the manifold/flange straight and reweld the crack?
no definitely not a good idea. IF I had more patience I may have taken the time to tightly bolt the manifold to a perfectly flat metal surface, heat the manifold up with a torch to fully open up the crack and then weld it up.
@@piercedasian If i am not mistaken heat makes metal expand and seals the crack.... welding it in either the hot or cold state won't fix the problem because the metal has simply fatigued and can no longer expand or contract without breaking. Hence it cracked due to fatigue.
To weld it would you take out the cat converter?
Would a crack in the cat converter reduce power will climbing up hill?
I have welded this manifold so many times in many different ways and it always seems to crack after several months of heat cycling. My time is worth more than the hassles of yanking the manifold out every few months to fix. Yes it did have more power and fuel economy putting in the new cat b/c it wan't leaking oxygen into the exhaust stream and throwing the o2 sensor readings off so the car drove better, was quiter and had marginally more power (if you consider 115HP much power at all). lol
Okay so i did that since it had a crack but it’s overheating still and it clogged so we don’t know how to fix it or clean it? Any help?
If the cat is clogged then really the only real way to fix it is to replace the cat with a new one but before doing so you have to find out what is wrong with the engine that caused the cat to clog up in the first place.
Thank you thank you thank you for this video
It's my pleasure
Great Video dude
Glad you enjoyed it
Do honda 2002civic lx have too catalytic converter
Good video. Thanks! 👍
Glad you liked it!
Love how he didn’t show how to break the 14mm bolt loose 😂
there really isn't much to show other than get a long wrench or ratchet and just loosen them. I guess some cars might be seized but my car was a breeze to remove and they're torqued fairly low from factory.
so its the same part for either a 01-05 year model???
yes as long as you have the civic model where the catalytic converter is directly attached to the manifold like the one shown in this video. On the Si models it is a completely different system so just make sure yours looks the same as mine.
Great video and i had a question for you. So i see that some civics have a catalytic converter on the manifold, and some have it underneath in the middle of the car. Does this depend on your model or something? Thank you.
You are correct! The integrated cat converter on manifold design is for the non-vtec versions of the motor while the 1.7 liter versions (namely the Si in Canada or the EX in the USA) or even the Acura 1.7 EL will have the cat beneath the car.
@@piercedasian got it makes sense. Thank you so much for the reply
Not problem have a great day!
Hey man I hope you can answer me I’ve did what you did but mine start smoking fro the censor one which is the top one and I don’t know what went wrong.. I’ve just spent money on a new catalytic convertir and censors and still not working… can you tell me what can it be.. or any advice…thank you…
that is too difficult to know exactly without understanding what issues you were having in the first place. Was the engine running properly prior to you replacing the cat converter? What was the reason why you had to change it?
@@piercedasian well before I change the cat I put a new crankshaft censor and a oxigen censor as well and when I change the cat I noticed that the other censor was bad as well so I got a new one but now that I got it in place is not working anyway my Honda is 2003 and the censor that blow smoke is top one under the hood and I did all of that cus while driving it always loose power and even die on me .. thank you for you time…
hmm, I'd double check your ignition timing. Since you replace the crankshaft sensor that I'm going to be inclined that it may be related to that issue.
@@piercedasian ok I even was able to drive aster I checked and replaced the crankshaft to see if it was fix and I drove it for like a week before that there was no smoke the smoke was after I change the cat along with the censor im about to try again and keep looking maybe and hopefully is just while for a couple of day s .thank you again..
Thanks for the help.
Np! Thanks for stopping by.
Would have really helped if you showed how you got the spring bolts on. 😕
spring bolts are easy. I just screwed them on. No real compressing was necessary since they compress when you tighten them down.
I have a 2002 civic EX and can't find a cat/manifold to replace it. I called a honda dealer and they said there wasn't one. I bought one from ebay for it but it don't fit. Way too big.
a 2002 EX would be the Si up in Canada (not to be mistaken with your Si and our SiR). Your cat should be downstream past the back of the motor on the exhaust pipe. In that case you'll need to find the proper cat specific for the EX (USA) or the Si (if in Canada).
@@piercedasian So it sounds like on my EX there is only one Cat. the one under my car, but on the front it is an exhaust manifold only? The code I get is P0420, is that the Cat, or maybe an oxygen sensor? You are one of the best mechanics on UA-cam, I changed my timing belt using your video and I actually did it right, first one I've done.
So I got a question I’m trying to help a buddy out because at advanced auto they are selling the manifold for $400+ which I think it way to high to sound correct, so I told him to look online and we came across two different websites selling them for $200 but it calls it the cat converter assembly, I’m just wondering if these are the same things or not, in the thumbnail of what they’re selling it shows the whole exhaust manifold or header whatever you want to call it, but I’m worried that it’s just going to send him a catalytic converter. He also has a crack in his manifold which they have tried to weld multiple times, I think the problem is the manifold being cast iron which is hard to weld together and to other metals because of how it expands in heat or somthing like that. Don’t quote me on that tho I’m no welder.
I thought I had replied to this but maybe not. Going with a non-Honda cat can be sketchy because not all manifolds are built to Honda's spec. I've heard of some folks going to aftermarket route with zero issues and some have had nothing but issues with the check engine light coming on.
Now as far as what the actual part should be called: The 7th gen civic came with 2 different styles of cat converters. If you're driving the non Si or a Non-vtec civic then you need the cat converter assembly. It is called an assembly b/c the cat converter is at the FRONT of the engine and is part of the exhaust manifold. If you drive a Si or 1.7 VTEC model then you have a separate exhaust manifold and cat converter (the cat converter is located on the downpipe down stream of the engine). I suspect that since you're watching my video that you likely have a 1.7 liter engine non-voter which means you need the cat converter/exhaust manifold assembly.
Hope that helps.
Any brand of cat converters that are good? 1100 is too much for me. I need to service my 2005 civic converter because it has rusty exhaust flange surface. Thanks!
You might be able to get a muffler shop to weld a new flange on the converter. Before going out and buying a new converter that you should look at that option first. Alternatively if you insist on buying a new cat that you can look at ones made by Walker. They seem to have reasonably consistent quality. Just stay away from the ebay specials that tend to be hollow cats that have no real catalysts in them.
@@piercedasian thanks for your reply!
Np!
Great video thanks for the info!!!!!
Any time!
Can I use an after market exhaust that doesn’t have the sensors if it’s more race performance wise
you could but then you may get a check engine light due to deviating from the factory's emissions design parameters.
great video
Thanks for the visit
Sir can you let me know the purpose of changing catalytic converter and i do have one question that is
I am having Honda civic 2005 1.5CC problem is my car is not going above 120KM/H after that speed or after 3 RPM the sound of eninge is coming very loud.
Can you help me on this
Thanks
The cat converter on my car had several large cracks in the manifold and despite repeated rewelding of the cracks that it wasn't in my best interests to keep wasting time on it. A leaky cat converter not only diminishes performance but it can leak deadly carbon monoxide fumes that under the right conditions, can enter the cabin of the car. I did it for safety reasons and the slight improvement in performance was a secondary benefit.
Did it need to be welded on
Can anyone tell me the part number on the bracket at the bottom that goes to the engine block? Mine was siezed onto the cat and I had to just leave it on the old cat and toss it in trash. Need a replacement part ASAP.
You can likely find the bracket on a parts diagram if you go to www.hondaautomotiveparts.com
piercedasian I was able to find it and put in a new bracket. It cost a pretty penny $70!
I have the same car and my exhaust manifold gasket is cracked and all exhaust is escaping from the top of the manifold, will this cause codes P0401 & P0420 to pop up ?
Difficult to say but if you have an exhaust leak that chances are that it will make your car throw DTCs.
Forgot to mention clean it with a wire brush replace exhaust manifold gasket muat be new every time you replace it
This catalyctic converter online is about 500 dollars american.
You're absolutely right that I should have mentioned that. It didn't even occur to me to say anything about it since the engines that I've worked on (and removed the manifolds one) are insanely clean and never need cleaning. I will use your feedback for subsequent maintenance vids as I'm sure not everyone's engine is in pristine condition.
thats a sick crx
Thanks! She's my baby and lives mostly a garage queen life these days.
Perfect
thanks!
how did you remove those spring bolts from the bottom. I can't get them out for the life of me.
sorry for the late reply. I douse them in a good healthy amount of a quality penetrating lube (not WD-40) and use a wrench and impact gun to bang them out. Worse case is that you cut them out and buy new ones.
$820 for a catalytic converter? Yes, I know they have platinum or rubidium or whatever in them, but I have trouble believing the crappy Honda manifold/cat has 5x more catalyst than the aftermarket, or is 5x better quality. Oh, and those O2 sensors are stupid expensive too.
Still not as shitty as Nissan for going all-in on bad CVTs, and recalling some but not all of them. So despite this manifold/cat business, I'd still buy a Honda over a Nissan. Fuck Nissan.
Thanks for this great video.
lol, you hate Nissan that much huh? I guess I can't blame you. Their CVT debacle was really bad. yeah cats in general are stupid expensive (not sure how much they sell for in the US or other countries but I've never paid anything LESS than $650 + for a cat on any of my domestic or Japanese cars. The sad part about that fact is that people are now cutting cats off of large vehicles and recycling them for like $100 yet it costs the owner of now vandalized car $1000's to replace them. So silly some of these emission control devices and what they cost consumers.
@@piercedasian I just recently rid myself of a 2013 Nissan Rogue that I bought for $10k used. If I was on the highway for more than like an hour, it would start limiting speed. I'd notice when it limited at 65 MPH, then it would go down to 55, then 45. So I'd be stuck doing 45 on the highway. Moab to Salt Lake City is usually like 4 hours, but it took me 6 the last trip because I was stuck at 45 mph.
The other thing it would do is, when I got off the highway and stopped, it wouldn't go again until I turned off the vehicle and restarted. You could mash the gas pedal as much as you want, but the engine would not rev, and the car would not go until you put it in park, shut it off, and restarted. I was told by Nissan that this was likely either a control valve or a bad transmission (which might be the same thing, IDK) and that it would cost $4k to fix.
So yeah, fuck Nissan. I will never buy another Nissan.
@@piercedasian In the US, you can buy a universal cat for like $200. There's no reason a direct fit should be 3-5x that price. I mean it clearly is, because you're right that's what it costs, but it seems like plain greed to me.
Great video
Thanks!
Anyone know where to buy the mounting bolts for the headers I’ve tried finding the same size from a hardware store and they just don’t go on correctly. If anyone could direct me on that it’s be appreciated thanks.
the only place to really get them and have them fit perfectly is your local Honda dealership. They're little studs so they can't really cost all that much.
So I’m trying to do this on my 2001 civic. I installed it, and there was a leak sound afterwards. I took it to the shop and they said it was the wrong part and not sealing. I returned it and ordered one from a different website. Same thing, it’s not sealing. Any ideas?
what trim line is your civic? Is it an LX? DX? These things should fit perfectly if you got the right cat for the engine application.
piercedasian it’s an LX
where can I buy the catalytic converter at for a low price? Can you send me a link
Unfortunately the only places I can suggest are online Honda dealers. I purchased mine from the local Honda dealership and they're not cheap. You could go aftermarket cats BUT the problem I've read is the quality of the cats is often not very good (worse than OE) and they often can make your ECU throw emission error codes.
you can buy parts on these websites,
google or rock auto.
My car had about the same miles, is it worth fixing it?
that really depends on you. If you feel your car is in good shape and has lots of life left in it then why not. I didn't even hesitate to change mine out and it was approaching 275, 000kms. We still drive this car around today and we're approaching 400, 000kms now!
Where should I go to get a replacement heat shield?
Honda is your best bet. They still make the part and it will be a perfect fit.
The bolts on my heat shield are beyond rusted/corroded do you have any advice on how I could possible get it off? do I have to screw the heat shield off or could I break or snap it off? Would that matter? The bolts are so far gone and the shield is pretty lose
Just twist the bolt until it breaks off the shield and then get the manifold out where you can either ditch the shield altogether or you can drill out the broken bolt and put a new one in. I've run several of my honda's with no heat shield and so far no melted parts under the hood.
@@piercedasian is the bolts that hold the heat shield (top two bolts) bolted into the manifold? Or are they separate bolted into something else? Because I honestly might just crack on them until they snap because I could care less about the heat shield honestly. Also do you have an Instagram I can contact you on and maybe answer some question for me?? I’d really really appreciate it!
On my 2003 5 spd civic coupe I need to do the same Job. I have a crack in the same spot. I was thinking about applying quick steel on the crack but dont know how long it would last so I'll probably be ordering a new manifold.
those crack filler fixes won't likely work on the manifold due to the fact that the manifold gets super crazy hot. I've tried welding the seam several times with little success due to the mild steel they use that is really crappy quality. If you're in the USA, you can likely find a good quality new cat for a pretty reasonable price. Cats in Canada are stupid expensive but I didn't have a choice. In many ways I'm glad I replaced b/c I've put well over 50, 000kms on the new cat and I haven't had a single issue yet.
@@piercedasian I ordered one from eBay for $150. Can’t afford a oem from the Honda dealer.
@@piercedasian besides the catalytic converter that is combined with the manifold on my LX civic is there also one underneath the car as usual or with my civic being the LX does it only have the one combined with the manifold?
Hi what is the plastic thing on the hood? What is it called?
The hood deflector?
Are i use Any other car cytalytic use in my civic 2001 vti oriel?????
I am not familiar with the VTI oriel. Where is this civic located?
question, i replaced my 02 sensors down and up stream and i still have a p0420 code, should i just replace cat?
hmm, if you're still getting that error there could very well be an exhaust system leak where the cat meets the engine or a crack that you can't see. As crappy as this news is going to be, you're likely going to have to replace the cat as I suspect there is a large enough crack to throw your o2 sensor readings off. Best thing to do is unbolt the cat and do a thorough inspection to identify if and where a crack might exist.
I thought P0420 codes are pretty much replace Cats
@@NeverStop909 Usually. But the cause isn't usually a cat failing on its own. Cats usually last the lifetime of the car assuming its engine is operating healthily. Oil burning, misfiring, exhaust leaks, faulty o2 sensors... anything that can cause an erratic downstream o2 reading will set that code.
Anyone that have the same issue right now? What can this effect in the long run if it isn’t change?
If you don't change the cat you get poorer emissions, it can impact your fuel economy due to the o2 sensor not getting the correct air fuel ratio readings, it hinders engine performance due to inaccurate air fuel ratios, it is noisier and most importantly it can leak carbon monoxide into the engine bay where it can easily enter the passenger compartment. I smelled exhaust inside the car often when the manifold was cracked which was why I replaced it with a new one.
Nothing you just make a liberal mad, and if you live in California you cant smog your car
Hi! Nice job on the video.
How do you know the doughnut gasket is still good? I have an issue where I smell engine bay fumes in the cabin when climate control is on. I think there might be an exhaust leak somewhere which is causing the engine bay fumes to be routered to the climate control. Any ideas on what can be done here?
I generally look for grooving, cracking and separation. Sometimes old gaskets last forever. I have seen many gaskets especially those in the rust belt just completely fall apart in a span of just a few years so your mileage may vary. Visual inspection is often good enough. Worse case scenario is that it’s easy to swap out IF you feel there is indeed a leak. Hope that helps.
@@piercedasian thanks!
You’re welcome!
The aftermarket manifold I ordered had one bolt hole misaligned - the one at 3:56. I put all other bolts but that one. Will this cause me issues? Felt very tight and secure
hmm interesting. Can you not loosen that bracket off the engine block and get it to fit or is the misalignment really off? Ideally it should be bolted up b/c any engine vibrations will put stress on the exhaust manifold studs and bolts which is part of your cylinder head. I'd strongly recommend you try to loosen that bracket to see if you can get it to align so that things can be all bolted up as how the factory intended it to be. If you can't then there isn't much you really can do.
@@piercedasian Is there a way to loosen the bracket?
@@IntegrityJack I believe it is simply bolted onto the engine block with a bolt or two no?
How much does a shop usually charge to do this?
with the converter plus labor you're looking at roughly $1400 CAD.
where would you get the unlock code for the radio ?
Honda dealership by giving them the serial number of the unit. You can retrieve the number by holding a combination of buttons to reveal the s/n which you then take to the parts department at Honda to get the unlock code. Check your owners manual to determine that key press combination.
Good
Thanks!
Hey I would like to know how do you know if your ex uses that manifold/cat assembly? I have an ex with Cali regulations but my car doesn’t have that? Also are you using OEM honda o2 sensors?
a US EX model is likely the same cat setup as the VTEC versions of the civic in Canada. it is underneath the car and not integrated with the exhaust manifold. Yes I am still using the factory Honda sensors.
@@piercedasian I’ve been having a lot of trouble with gas mileage and they keep saying that it’s the cat which I replaced or the O2 sensor which I also changed. The mechanics I went to were no help either
@@Bababooey29 A bad cat isn't likely going to cause you poor fuel economy but rather poor engine performance with hardly enough power that it used to have. Can you better describe your issues in great detail by email it to piercedasian@gmail.com?