Have you put a finish of some kind on the base of your shooting board (the MDF)? It appears darker than the original MDF shooting board. My shooting board (made to your specs), has some “grooves” in it that were made by a Stanley Sweetheart Jackplane (I know, I know..I only use a 5 1/2 now). Do I need to remake the shooting board because of the grooves? Thanks for the help.
I made a shooting board after watching yours but something was telling me something was not right and yesterday I finally figured it out after watching you. I need to put an extra piece of board on the shooting board to raise the the piece I'm planing so the plane will hit the whole side and I will use a clamp to fix the piece I'm planing
the chamfer trick is really interesting !!! I was thinking of making a new shooting board , and most sources show plans on how to make the fence movable so it acts as "backer board" to prevent tearout ... this method makes building the shooting board a bit easier and quicker as you can just glue it without having to cut a dado for the fence !!! .... we always learn something from your videos !!
Rob this is another great video. Thank you for sharing this and I'm glad I subscribe. I just got a table saw for the first time, actually invested the money in a really good one. I like to make small furniture items around the house and for family like cradles, etc. Looking toward retirement in the next few years God-willing And I'm so happy to have videos like yours to enrich my woodworking and take the fear out of it, as well. Bless you, brother!
Learning when to stop planing is true in most aspects, not only for when you reach the chamfer while shooting. Its the same when straightening an edge, if ya keep planing its gonna turn into a hump again. It took me a long time and some frustration to learn when to stop haha :P And then sometimes I just want to use a plane...... so I get some scrap and cut grooves in an edge with my plow, I plane them away with my 6, cut more grooves with my plow, take em away again, and so on........ive planed more pieces of wood into non-existence doing this than I care to admit :P Thanks for the video lads :)
my ever growing collection of shooting boards gets just as much use at my bench as does my Woodriver 5 1/2 if not more. it is an essential piece of kit and has accelerated and advanced my precision tremendously. Thxs Rob.
Rob, I just retired and am inspired by your 💜 project and appreciate your methods of teaching in exciting detail, assuming that we know little too nothing. Even for pros, there is always something to learn and I think you force us to slow down, pay attention to detail EARLY in the project today pays off later in quality and time saving. Now, I'm off to the shop to build my first project; a Buddhist shrine for our backyard. Many, many thanks for your teachings.
Great video! I've seen many about building a shooting board. I think this is the first I've seen about using one correctly to get the best results. Thank you.
Fantastic learning experience, many thanks Rob. This covers so many points all of which will help me when I have finished my shooting board. I'm not sure even Paul Sellers has covered all these teaching points and that is something!!
Some say that the sides of their new Woodriver No. 5-1/2 is not quite perpendicular to the sole. Are they supposed to be? What to do if the lateral adjustment is not enough? Have you ever ground down the sides of your plane to make it square?
excellent and informative. thank you for taking it back to the basics. it may seem rudimentary to some, but i would bet most people were able to pick up at least a pointer or two. many people have issues working with shooting boards. i cant imagine a more helpful tutorial on the subject.
As always great Rob, I love how you learn 1 question, I haven't plane 5 1/2. Which is better jack plane 5 low angle stanley or plane 6 faithfull for my shooting board? Thanks
I just finished making a shooting board using the steps you taught in your livestream a while back. I appreciate the tips to make the best use of it now. Thanks for the great instruction!
Great video yet again, Rob. The quality of these videos is an amazing aid to learning. Being able to see precisely what to look for when planing to a knife line as demonstrated here (we first saw you do this several months ago, IIRC) has transformed the precision of my woodworking. Also, the audio is a huge help... believe it or not, when I first started using my shooting board a year ago, I learned to “tune” the depth of my cut by the sound of the blade cutting the wood to match the sound your plane made in your videos. There are a lot of great tips in this short video. BTW, I just installed the Adjustar my wife bought me for Christmas on my 5-1/2 plane, and it’s fantastic. Keep it up! You and your crew are transforming home woodworking.
Great video, I was trying out ways to get that chamfer but your technique makes the most sense. I may throw a knife wall at the end of the board as well just in case I go too far, and to cut to, but probably isn't required.I was also running into the issue of not cutting enough, I mostly get something like fine sawdust rather then a chip. I may need to be exposing more blade and take that heavier cut. I find having a "practice" piece of wood handy for that first run/check of the shooting board. I do this as a hobby so it can be some time between using the shooting board so it is good to get the technique down again, and check that everything is still square and true before touching a project board. Also good as check after sharpening the blade if in heavy use.
Thanks so much for your so many advices Rob and greetings from Italy. 🇮🇹 As per the wax and to avoid mashing up with dust give a try to PTFE lubricant (just a bit... we care of environment). Cheers, Alberto
The cheek of my plane is not perfectly square to the sole. Any issues with that? I really dont want to have to worry about keep playing with the lateral adjustment lever every time i use it. I was thinking layering painters tape in whichever area to raise it to be square?
So if your plane bed is not fully square to the side, would you recommend sanding it to square or just use the lateral adjustment to square your cut? Mine is out a few degrees.
Thanks once again Rob. But you also raised my attention when using your 5 1/2. Where do you find a plan e with a "star wheel" for adjusting? Keep on smiling.
Excellent instructions with detailed explanations. Very helpful indeed! One question about the chamfer: at about 8:25, you say don’t go beyond the chamfer with your plane, but then it appears you DO go past it. What am I missing here, please?
Great Video Rob, thanks. I’ve never used a shooting board so might be a dumb question but what prevents the plane from shaving down the edge of the shooting board?
Good video. I do wonder though; if you shoot the long grain first to ensure a straight edge prior shooting the end grain, wouldn't that mean the end grain you're offering up to the fence is out of square, as it hasn't been shot yet.
Would it be worthwhile to build a board fashioned with a tall fence for workbench sized joints? Say 1-1/4” thick material. Like if a man intended to use Southern Yellow pine for his bench.
Rob, You sold me on the 5-1/2 and it's an amazing tool. The lateral adjustment arm on my particular tool (from the factory) is extremely tight to pivot even without the iron installed. QUESTION: Is there any way to adjust this arm-to-frog pinned/riveted connection ? Maybe you could do a video that shows how easily yours pivots without the iron? side note: My #6 older Stanley lever arm will pivot very easily without the iron and when the iron and and cap are installed the arm pivots with the correct amount of pressure just perfectly. 65 degrees Fahrenheit in Redding, Ca today! You inspire me greatly.. Thank you for all that you do.
If your fence is slightly out of square, how would you recommend removing it? Since it is glued, I am thinking removing the fence with a scrub plane is my best option. Do you have any other recommendations for removing it without compromising the rest of the shooting board?
We developed it last year and brought it to market 4 months ago. We are out of stock now but our inventory should be here tomorrow. robcosman.com/collections/planes/products/rob-cosman-plane-adjustar
well thanks Rob now that I know how to use it, I gonna need to make both full size n mini size but by then I’ll forget how to use em and have to watch this video again. Thought Robs shooting board would be a lil more accurate than mine, see I’ve been using my Smith n Wesson 500 Mag 10.5” barrel and i’ve found the 700 gr load works the best for squaring dem not so square ends but here’s the rub with that method. I’ve been having to clean em up a lil n then hit with 220 sandpaper lots of extra work 😳😳 so imma try Robs shooting n make both sizes n maybe just maybe it’ll save me some work? 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Hopefully Rob will see this...I've noticed that you don't tend to adjust for backlash when you back the blade off. I'm guessing it's because a sharp blade will not scoot back?
A couple of years back I bought a 'factory seconds', bevel up Jack plane from Axminster. It was all I could afford at the time and considered the small amount of fettling a reasonable compromise. It turned out to be a piece of cr-... er, not for me. Many months later I realised it'd be good as a stand alone shooter and eventually modified it to include a kidney shaped grip, bolted to the side and removed the tote. But I tell you what, the fact that it doesn't have a lateral adjustment level is a small, but significant annoyance. It'd be unfair of me to slag off the blade too, but it readily loses the ability to effortlessly cut slivers off end grain. A quick test on the long edge proves it can cut fine, but I end up bruting it through some end grain. I even went as far as building a ramped board to see if it'd improve the entry of the plane into the wood. Results varied. I would bet my life it's my sharpening, but considering the history of the plane, it's hard to look at it kindly.
Rob, what do you think about shooting boards that have the flat part (the mdf on yours) slanted downward front to back when compared to the base (the plywood on yours)? It seems like this would make the angle of attack be a slight skew. I haven't tried it, but I see designs like that out there. It does make building it more complicated, but maybe it is worth it?
A ramped shooting board. IMO, not worth the effort. If you are doing it to spread out the wear on the blade, sharpening is under a minute, not worth the construction time. If you are doing it to skew the cut, not enough angle to make a difference.
What is your view in using tallow or mineral oil instead of wax? By the way, your trick to give better grip to the handles of f clamps using hockey tape is the bomb!
Learn how to make a mini shooting board here: ua-cam.com/video/IVrKjjjZ50M/v-deo.html
Have you put a finish of some kind on the base of your shooting board (the MDF)? It appears darker than the original MDF shooting board. My shooting board (made to your specs), has some “grooves” in it that were made by a Stanley Sweetheart Jackplane (I know, I know..I only use a 5 1/2 now). Do I need to remake the shooting board because of the grooves? Thanks for the help.
@@danaparish1644 rrdt
@@toivorivis7321 rrdt?
I made a shooting board after watching yours but something was telling me something was not right and yesterday I finally figured it out after watching you. I need to put an extra piece of board on the shooting board to raise the the piece I'm planing so the plane will hit the whole side and I will use a clamp to fix the piece I'm planing
This tip, "How to Tell if your Blade is Parallel to the Plane's Sole" is fantastic.
Glad it was useful to you
I think I've decided. This weekend, I'm going to make a shooting board. I'm glad to have this as a resource!
I check back on technique occasionally to keep those good results on the shooting board - Thanks Rob.
Another great video. I clamp the cleat in my face vise. Steadier than just hanging over the front of the bench and simpler than a clamp.
Thats a great technique
Great video on using the shooting board. I never realized there was so much technique involved. Thank you!
the chamfer trick is really interesting !!! I was thinking of making a new shooting board , and most sources show plans on how to make the fence movable so it acts as "backer board" to prevent tearout ... this method makes building the shooting board a bit easier and quicker as you can just glue it without having to cut a dado for the fence !!! .... we always learn something from your videos !!
I learned something new! Never thought about using my lateral adjustment lever to adjust the plane
Im from South Africa and I just Subscribed
Watching again cause I love your teaching n insight
Rob this is another great video. Thank you for sharing this and I'm glad I subscribe. I just got a table saw for the first time, actually invested the money in a really good one. I like to make small furniture items around the house and for family like cradles, etc. Looking toward retirement in the next few years God-willing And I'm so happy to have videos like yours to enrich my woodworking and take the fear out of it, as well. Bless you, brother!
Learning when to stop planing is true in most aspects, not only for when you reach the chamfer while shooting. Its the same when straightening an edge, if ya keep planing its gonna turn into a hump again. It took me a long time and some frustration to learn when to stop haha :P
And then sometimes I just want to use a plane...... so I get some scrap and cut grooves in an edge with my plow, I plane them away with my 6, cut more grooves with my plow, take em away again, and so on........ive planed more pieces of wood into non-existence doing this than I care to admit :P
Thanks for the video lads :)
Somtimes you just gtta make shavings!!!!
Thanks Rob - that was really helpful.
my ever growing collection of shooting boards gets just as much use at my bench as does my Woodriver 5 1/2 if not more. it is an essential piece of kit and has accelerated and advanced my precision tremendously. Thxs Rob.
You gatta love shooting boards
Another excellent video...thanks Rob.
Thank you, thank you, thank you Rob. Just purchased a Veritas Shooting Plane....this will help me so much...
As always, there is a lot to learn ...
Thank you very much Rob.
Take care of yourself there. :)
Rob, I just retired and am inspired by your 💜 project and appreciate your methods of teaching in exciting detail, assuming that we know little too nothing. Even for pros, there is always something to learn and I think you force us to slow down, pay attention to detail EARLY in the project today pays off later in quality and time saving. Now, I'm off to the shop to build my first project; a Buddhist shrine for our backyard. Many, many thanks for your teachings.
Lots of helpful tips in this one! I've been having a lot of frustrations with my shooting boards and this was very helpful. Thank you!
You bet
ooohhhh...new shooting board. Nice Rob. Excellent video. Covered all the bases I think.
I hope so
I really learned a lot here. Thanks !
Great video! I've seen many about building a shooting board. I think this is the first I've seen about using one correctly to get the best results. Thank you.
Thanks for watching and commenting
I have seen your explanation on shooting boards so often and every time I learn something new. Just fantastic and thank you so much.
Thnaks for watching and commenting
Thank you so much for your knowledge and your experience. I have bought several of your products they all work as well as it does on the video!:)
Great tips. I especially like the tip on how to tell if the blade is parallel to the sole of the plane, but they're all great. Thanks so much.
Hi.
I am wondering why the fence isn’t giving the board support all the way out to the plane in order to avoid chamfering? Thank you so much!!
Super informative!!
Fantastic learning experience, many thanks Rob. This covers so many points all of which will help me when I have finished my shooting board. I'm not sure even Paul Sellers has covered all these teaching points and that is something!!
Some say that the sides of their new Woodriver No. 5-1/2 is not quite perpendicular to the sole. Are they supposed to be? What to do if the lateral adjustment is not enough? Have you ever ground down the sides of your plane to make it square?
excellent and informative. thank you for taking it back to the basics. it may seem rudimentary to some, but i would bet most people were able to pick up at least a pointer or two. many people have issues working with shooting boards. i cant imagine a more helpful tutorial on the subject.
Thank you for watching
Great teaching! Thanks a lot 👍
Thanks Rob great tips and I like also your video on building a shooting board.
Your welcome
Excellent as always. This will help my son and I get off to the right start with the new shooting board that arrived yesterday.
Great!!!! Let me know how he does
As always great Rob, I love how you learn
1 question, I haven't plane 5 1/2.
Which is better jack plane 5 low angle stanley or plane 6 faithfull for my shooting board? Thanks
Perfect tips for accurate work.
Thanks Rob
Glad it was helpful
You do a beautiful job of explaining the procedure. Thanks
Your welcome
Thanks for the tip on making sure your plane is square to the shooting board. I didn't think to check if the side of the plane is square.
Thats critical to a correctly operating shooting board
I just finished making a shooting board using the steps you taught in your livestream a while back. I appreciate the tips to make the best use of it now. Thanks for the great instruction!
Send me a pic at contact us on robcosman.com
@@RobCosmanWoodworking - will do!
Thanks so much!
I’m using a 62. Enjoy the knowledge you pass on. Thank you.
Glad to help
Another great video, and camera angles.
Thanks for watching
Great video yet again, Rob. The quality of these videos is an amazing aid to learning. Being able to see precisely what to look for when planing to a knife line as demonstrated here (we first saw you do this several months ago, IIRC) has transformed the precision of my woodworking. Also, the audio is a huge help... believe it or not, when I first started using my shooting board a year ago, I learned to “tune” the depth of my cut by the sound of the blade cutting the wood to match the sound your plane made in your videos. There are a lot of great tips in this short video. BTW, I just installed the Adjustar my wife bought me for Christmas on my 5-1/2 plane, and it’s fantastic. Keep it up! You and your crew are transforming home woodworking.
Glad you find our videos helpful. Keep watching
Great camera work. Was diggen the tight shots.
Jake has been my camera man since 2011. He has shot more than 2000 videos between UA-cam, website product videos and our weekly online workshop vids.
Jake good job man, it's nice to see what Rob is talking about keep up the great work.
Best shots I've seen of the breaking fibers when shooting to a line. More great work from Jake.
Hey Rob, why does the blade of the plane not cut into the top board (of the shooting board)?
It's either not tall enough to reach the plane mouth, has a rabbet or after being used a bit the plane will make the rabbet
I just finished my mini shooting board tonight and this video came out at the perfect time. Thanks for the tips!
How is your mini SB working?
i have a wood river 5 but doesnt have square sides, so thats great...
Thanks a lot for this really informative series. Your style of teaching is motivational.
Great video, I was trying out ways to get that chamfer but your technique makes the most sense. I may throw a knife wall at the end of the board as well just in case I go too far, and to cut to, but probably isn't required.I was also running into the issue of not cutting enough, I mostly get something like fine sawdust rather then a chip. I may need to be exposing more blade and take that heavier cut.
I find having a "practice" piece of wood handy for that first run/check of the shooting board. I do this as a hobby so it can be some time between using the shooting board so it is good to get the technique down again, and check that everything is still square and true before touching a project board. Also good as check after sharpening the blade if in heavy use.
Rob, how do I know how far out to position the work material? 1/16”, 1/8”??
Thanks👌
Nothing better than a nearly transparent ribbon of walnut end grain from my shooting board...Thanks Rob and crew (family)
Your welcome
Thanks Rob
ooh-rah
Thanks so much for your so many advices Rob and greetings from Italy. 🇮🇹
As per the wax and to avoid mashing up with dust give a try to PTFE lubricant (just a bit... we care of environment). Cheers, Alberto
Awesome tutorial! Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Another fantastic video Rob. I love the test for the parallel blade to sole.
Its a useful test
Great tips, and explanation of the process.
Thanks
The sound the plane makes when pulling shavings on a shooting board is almost as satisfying as hearing a V8 or V12 roar.
Thx Rob, again a very well explained and useful tutorial👌
The cheek of my plane is not perfectly square to the sole. Any issues with that? I really dont want to have to worry about keep playing with the lateral adjustment lever every time i use it.
I was thinking layering painters tape in whichever area to raise it to be square?
So if your plane bed is not fully square to the side, would you recommend sanding it to square or just use the lateral adjustment to square your cut? Mine is out a few degrees.
Lateral adjustment is fine but a pain to have to always do and remember to “undo”! Plane fix is a better solution.
Thanks once again Rob. But you also raised my attention when using your 5 1/2. Where do you find a plan e with a "star wheel" for adjusting? Keep on smiling.
Its an adjustar. We sell them for WoodRiver and Lie Neilsen planes.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I don't have my Woodriver yet but it's on it's way. I'll check your web when it's here. Thanks.
Excellent instructions with detailed explanations. Very helpful indeed! One question about the chamfer: at about 8:25, you say don’t go beyond the chamfer with your plane, but then it appears you DO go past it. What am I missing here, please?
The next thing I say is “I went too far” and then fix it
Got it! Slow learner here sometimes, in spite of clear instructions. 🙈 Thanks for your reply.
Thank you!
You bet!
Rob do you recommend finishing your shooting boards with any kind of shellac, etc? If so, what finishes would you recommend. Thank you!
Great Video Rob, thanks. I’ve never used a shooting board so might be a dumb question but what prevents the plane from shaving down the edge of the shooting board?
I cut a small rabbet on the edge of the plywood, the bottom of the rabbet rides on the plane sole below the blade.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking - Thanks, I plan to build one this weekend. Go Canes!
Great info as usual.
Glad you enjoyed it
Love these tips. I’d love to see the lessons done with hardwood.
Great tips!!
Glad you liked it
Good video. I do wonder though; if you shoot the long grain first to ensure a straight edge prior shooting the end grain, wouldn't that mean the end grain you're offering up to the fence is out of square, as it hasn't been shot yet.
Yep, that is why you use the fence just to hold the board from moving, pressing the board against the plane sole straightens it.
Would it be worthwhile to build a board fashioned with a tall fence for workbench sized joints? Say 1-1/4” thick material. Like if a man intended to use Southern Yellow pine for his bench.
thanks
Welcome
Thanks
No problem
I really needed this one.
Thank you!!!
You bet
Ty
Thank you so much, I needed that lesson for sure.
Your welcome
Hi, do you make 25 or 30 degrees bevel knife plane to uses the shooting board?
Wouldn't a sacrificial fence help to prevent the tearout when cutting end grain?
Rob, You sold me on the 5-1/2 and it's an amazing tool. The lateral adjustment arm on my particular tool (from the factory) is extremely tight to pivot even without the iron installed.
QUESTION: Is there any way to adjust this arm-to-frog pinned/riveted connection ?
Maybe you could do a video that shows how easily yours pivots without the iron?
side note: My #6 older Stanley lever arm will pivot very easily without the iron and when the iron and and cap are installed the arm pivots with the correct amount of pressure just perfectly.
65 degrees Fahrenheit in Redding, Ca today!
You inspire me greatly.. Thank you for all that you do.
Try lubing it, also work it back and forth
If your fence is slightly out of square, how would you recommend removing it? Since it is glued, I am thinking removing the fence with a scrub plane is my best option. Do you have any other recommendations for removing it without compromising the rest of the shooting board?
My first choice would be to fix it without removing it. I do this with a shoulder plane. You can remove material to bring it into square
Rob, Have you ever tried using a thin teflon strip on the shooting board to reduce the friction?
No. I have never needed it
Hey Rob 👋 are you still selling your style iron adjuster knob for the old Stanley's? I can't find them on your site. Matt
you mean the adjustars...yes, currently out of stock but coming soon
Great tips. Now all I need is a good plane!
A good plane is essential
Clutter, the craftsman's Bane
Would a low angle plane like a 62 work on a shooting board? Thank you.
it does but not my choice. Too light and not enough surface area on the side, 5 1/2 is a better plane and a better choice for the shooting board.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Thank you.I was assuming the angle was more important for cross grain. Learning here.
Rob, what wood is your fence? Osage orange?
Thanks for the great video Rob. Where did you get that star shaped adjustment knob that you have on your plane?
We developed it last year and brought it to market 4 months ago. We are out of stock now but our inventory should be here tomorrow. robcosman.com/collections/planes/products/rob-cosman-plane-adjustar
I bought one of Rob's adjustars it is awesome. I need to got a few more for my other planes.
well thanks Rob now that I know how to use it, I gonna need to make both full size n mini size but by then I’ll forget how to use em and have to watch this video again. Thought Robs shooting board would be a lil more accurate than mine, see I’ve been using my Smith n Wesson 500 Mag 10.5” barrel and i’ve found the 700 gr load works the best for squaring dem not so square ends but here’s the rub with that method. I’ve been having to clean em up a lil n then hit with 220 sandpaper lots of extra work 😳😳 so imma try Robs shooting n make both sizes n maybe just maybe it’ll save me some work? 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Sounds like a rifle instead of a shooting board!!!!!!
@@RobCosmanWoodworking come on Rob, lighten up, supposed to be funny lol
What brand planes are you using? Thanks
WoodRiver, Woodcraft brand
@@RobCosmanWoodworking thank you sir
What keeps the plane from cuting into the side of the surface and the fence
Purpose cut rabbet that runs against the sole of the plane before the blade.
so when out of square adjust the lever toward the problem?
Yes, if you define the problem as the high side
Hopefully Rob will see this...I've noticed that you don't tend to adjust for backlash when you back the blade off. I'm guessing it's because a sharp blade will not scoot back?
Do you think a low angle plane like a LN low angle jack plane is beneficial? Or does the bed angle not end up mattering here?
bed angle does not matter
Great timing, I just built a shooting board using your video. Now I just have to save up my pennies to buy your 5 1/2 plane.
Send me a pic st robcosman. Com
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Done, sent it to your support email, its the only email addy I have for you and your team.
A couple of years back I bought a 'factory seconds', bevel up Jack plane from Axminster. It was all I could afford at the time and considered the small amount of fettling a reasonable compromise. It turned out to be a piece of cr-... er, not for me. Many months later I realised it'd be good as a stand alone shooter and eventually modified it to include a kidney shaped grip, bolted to the side and removed the tote. But I tell you what, the fact that it doesn't have a lateral adjustment level is a small, but significant annoyance. It'd be unfair of me to slag off the blade too, but it readily loses the ability to effortlessly cut slivers off end grain. A quick test on the long edge proves it can cut fine, but I end up bruting it through some end grain. I even went as far as building a ramped board to see if it'd improve the entry of the plane into the wood. Results varied. I would bet my life it's my sharpening, but considering the history of the plane, it's hard to look at it kindly.
Sounds like sharpening or blade quality to me
Rob, what do you think about shooting boards that have the flat part (the mdf on yours) slanted downward front to back when compared to the base (the plywood on yours)? It seems like this would make the angle of attack be a slight skew. I haven't tried it, but I see designs like that out there. It does make building it more complicated, but maybe it is worth it?
A ramped shooting board. IMO, not worth the effort. If you are doing it to spread out the wear on the blade, sharpening is under a minute, not worth the construction time. If you are doing it to skew the cut, not enough angle to make a difference.
Im having trouble because the plane doesent take a shaving eventough the blade is out
What is your view in using tallow or mineral oil instead of wax? By the way, your trick to give better grip to the handles of f clamps using hockey tape is the bomb!
Tallow works for lubrication as does mineral oil. I prefer a chunk of wax, easier to carry in your apron
Thanks for the upload: very useful.
Can you recommend the kind of magnifying lenses you use?
Optivisor
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Thanks!
How do you avoid shaving down the shooting board ??
shallow rabbet on the side, runs on the sole of the plane below the blade.