Before saying anything to do with 60T blades not being for rip cuts please read this article: gosforthhandyman.com/2017/07/dewalt-dw745-blade-change-freud/ Product links to Freud blades and DeWalt table saw in video description and in the article above. Cheers y'all! 👍😀
i red the article, but since i work with saw blades every day, i can assure you that the way these theeth are on the blade, 15 degree possitive and 15 degree beveled, this will cut long grain prob allright when its new without to many problems, but on the long therem, when your blade is getting older, you risk to burn the motor from your tablesaw, because this blade hasnt the design to cut long grain, long grain has long fibers, and this blade isnt capeble of getting rid of it fast enough, therfore, the blade wil faster overheat, it will start to wobble, and your motor from the tablesaw has to work 3 times as hard as when you use a blade that is designed for long grain a ripcut saw will have somewhere around 24 teeth on a 250 mm sawblade, with a 20 degree positive angle and 10 degree bevel.also the cut ins in the blade is not designed as a anti vibration, it is desiged so the metal from the blade itself has room to expand to prevent wobble when the blade heats up as much as possible, and that is a very different thing. no matter what factory tells you to sell their product, there is a reason that they have different sawblades for diferent jobs
Hi andy just got this saw in 110v version was cutting 2x2 with the supplied blade and machine seemed to be struggling would this improve alot if i got say a 40 tooth or 60 tooth blade. Also being 110v should make it less powerful would it. Most of my other tools track saw are 110v and been fine
If you use a feather board on your table saw you will get an even better cut. Hand feeding such long pieces also causes what you might think is due to blade vibration.
The blunt blade and the fact that table saw is not meant for super accurate cuts means it is going to have wobble. If he can improve that with a higher end blade why not. Featherboard would make a difference when feeding.
Same saw...about 5-6 years old, original blade. Yesterday, I struggled to get clean accurate cuts in some plywood, and some cedar boards. I had thoughts about getting a new blade, and tomorrow, I certainly will....Good video.
I’ve got the Dewalt 7491 table saw. It sounds like you need to clean and lubricate the height adjustment screw (see instruction manual section, Lubrication). A Woodcraft rep recommended I use a bicycle dry lube and I’ve been happy with it.
Over the last decade I've trained myself to always add 1/32" to widths to allow me to hit every cut piece on my DW747 on my Ridgid planer/jointer set at 1/32" cuts. Never a problem even with my Freud blades, which I prize.
Part of the issues with the rip cut are because you havent got your riving knife in. The timber has pinched a bit and gouged. Also, zero clearance plate would help too.
My yellow dewalt blade even cuts melamine/laminates with barely any chipping. I'm really happy with mine. Still can't get over the raw power of the machine when it starts up. Only machine I have which I have full respect for
The blades on portable table saws are made for the saw's target market, construction. Construction was printed on the blade. But yes, Freud makes some awesome blades among other stuff.
I just want to thank you for your video and article. I took your advice and I got the Freud 60T for my DW745 table saw and the cuts are just phenomenon! You are so right. No comparison. Off course the factory Dewalt blade is marked and for Construction. It cuts fast but it is not suitable for furniture making. Thanks again. Stefan.
I thought the blade that came with my track saw was good until I replaced it with a Freud... they're great blades. Glad they're making your life better!
Hi Andy - not sure its a totally fair comparison between such a higher tooth count and it being brand new but I've followed your advice and gone for the same replacement blade. Couldn't agree more about the DW745 by the way, both it's pros and cons.
Hi just come across this video, I had the same problem when I bought my saw 4+ years ago, terrible vibration on the blade, I sent it back in the box with 2 bits of cut timber showing the excessive marks on the timber, but the seller sent it back saying it was fine, it was terrible!!. I took it to a Dewalt repaire shop in Durham where they gave me an exchange.The table top bows down in the middle, so getting anything to cut at 90deg is a nightmare, also meaning the fence is off at 90 deg to the table. The actual washer which holds the blade is suppose to be 30mm, but every blade I use with a 30mm bore is slightly oversized, so obviously the washer is undersizes.(I have dewalt and 6 Freud pro blades, they can't all be wrong). Also since new the saw has grunted it's way through cuts, I have to go extra slow on cuts. I honestly believe I got a rejected saw. You also have the same shop vac. I made a zero tol insert plate and a knee paddle for the 'on off' switch. But it's nice to see a local lad on youtube.Love your workshop. Thanks for the video. I'm from Ashington.
I changed to a Freud Pro on my chop saw cuts like butter. The one thing I did notice when cutting MDF it tended to clog up with the wood dust between the teeth so I had to keep brushing the blade clear. I'm hoping to get the Dewalt DW745 I'll change to the Freud Pro. Great video
Great blades - I've now got the 60 tooth on my chop saw and a rip blade on the 745. Think I preferred the 60 on the 745 though but depends what you're cutting. 👍
I am in New Zealand and have just bought two replacement blades for my Makita jobsite saw. Lots of teeth, carbide tipped. 10NZ$ each. That’s £6 each. They cut fine. Guess where they are made. I hope the teeth stay stuck. I examined every weld just in case.😀 I also bought a bench grinder for 39NZD. It runs smoothly. My Makita comes with a thin kerf blade. Less power required. Back in Blighty I have a Sedgwick. There ain’t no comparison in use and safety. If I was starting again I’d buy a Sawstop with a mortgage.
Just fyi, the Freud Pro is considered a better grade than the Diablo, which is made by Freud also. I've only used Diablo and they work well in my circular saw and miter saw, best blade for the price, and what I'd normally use. But I'm thinking of upgrading to the Pro next time I need a blade for my DW745. Just setting it up.
My common refrain: "Pencil? Where the hell is that pencil! I just had it a second ago. I'll just go get another one. Where the hell is that other one? Damn!"
I've just bought the dewalt dw745, upgraded from a clarke, the difference is amazing and I was looking at changing the blade out for a Freud. At the moment the dewalt base is doing fine and I can't afford it!! But now I know the Freud is way better I will change it out in the future. And the best is I learned this from someone less than 40 miles up the A1 from me😀 thanks
Iv'e got the same saw as you and I changed the DeWalt blade for a Freud 40T today and ripped some wood down for a door frame and got the same result you did, the difference is amazing, the DeWalt blade always left those marks from the day I bought it, if that side was to show when the job was finished I would have to sand it, well worth the cost of the new blade.
I put a Diablo blade on my very old black and decker hand saw and on a ryobi job site saw, it improved them both to the point that all i am going to by now is a Diablo.
Freud does make a great blade but I'm not sure you wouldn't have seen just as good results with a new Dewalt blade with a similar amount of teeth. Comparing the old Dewalt blade which probably has thousands of cuts on it and less teeth than the Freud is like comparing apples and oranges, though I'm sure Freud, if they're watching thank you for the plug. I'm sure your saw thanks you too because you probably just cut the amount of energy it had to use in half by having to force that dull blade through that piece of pine. It must really have loved it when you fed it hard woods. Any imperfections you're seeing in the Freud cut are most likely being caused by your board being cupped and having the outside of the cup down and when you regrip to push more you're probably rolling the board slightly into the side of the blade. I know you just grabbed any board for the purpose of your demonstration but sawing jointed lumber as opposed to unjointed lumber will make a difference in the quality of the cut as well. Enjoyed the video.
The biggest problem with the DeWalt is blade vibration and many others have had the same problem - the blade wasn't particularly dull and the board wasn't cupped. I'm sure DeWalt make equally good blades - thanks for watching! 👍
I live in Sweden (although I'm English) and I can tell you that the decimal point here, as in most of the continent, is a comma. That means that 2,4 is the same as 2·4 (or 2.4) in the UK. They also use what we call a decimal point to denote thousands (I kid you not!) so what would be 1,000 in the UK is 1.000 or even 1 000 on the continent. I still get confused. Thanks for the excellent video, I'm now convinced to get the same Freud blade for my Bosch GTS10J.
Cheers for watching Alan - thought that must have been what it meant! Think it must be a mis-print on the packaging as nothing about this blade is 2.4! Weird... 😜
Great video, thanks for posting. I have the same saw and while it is a great tool I had similar complaints to yours. There is a simple fix to the problem with the insert locking "tab". I too found it wasn't positive enough and on occasion it would unscrew when I tried to just loosen for removal. Undo the screw completely, clean both male and female threads, mix up the smallest bit of epoxy adhesive, put it in the hole and screw back up. Put the insert back in the table and adjust for clearance/ fit. Allow the epoxy to set up and bingo the job is done, the tab is held securely but when undoing the screw no longer backs out. I made an oversize "kill switch" for the saw from 2 rubber door stops, some ply offcuts and a small cabinet hinge- it's easy to find when using the saw and I can "find" it with my knee when working with oversize pieces. One question for you, what are you using for dust collection, I'm just using a cheap shop vac at the moment and find that a lot of the dust is fired at the operator because (shame on me) I don't use the flimsy crown guard (difficult to see anything with it- the ones supplied with US saws seem much better). Thanks
I understand yiu wanting to keep the blade protruding down to a minimum but a tip to always use for a better cut and longer life etc etc is the blade height should always allow for the gullet of the blade to be higher than your wood. The gullet if you dont know is the cervice between each teeth, Having them protruding past allows for better cleanout of material, better airflow, a cleaner cut and a longer life for the blade.
There's so many mixed reports on what the blade height should be - I prefer it low and get perfect cuts with the Freud but if you prefer it higher that's dandy. 😃👍
Ever since i saw a miter saw start without the trigger being pressed i always make sure the machines are plugged out before i switch a blade .......just incase .
First thing to do when you get a new saw is to sack off the OEM supplied blade. I have the type 1 745 with the old fence, the new flip over fence like yours is 10x better.
I saw this video a few months ago and got one of these saws and stands today (my christmas present to myself) and tried your initial test today. I did three cuts two in pine, one in oak cabinet door panel stile and both had the same problem as your factory blade and mine is brand new. Will give it a few more chances as it could have been me, But will probably go for the Freud in the end. Cheers.
Like others have said - that Frued blade is a crosscut blade. A rip blade has less teeth and deeper gullets. Also be careful to make sure that the riving knife is the same or slightly narrower than the blade.
Just to confirm, the Freud blade is not a crosscut-only blade. Read the full article here for further info.: gosforthhandyman.com/2017/07/dewalt-dw745-blade-change-freud/
Im getting a new blade right now !!. The dewalt cut you made, is just the same way my cuts are. About the throatplate, I have made a zero clearence insert from MDF. Works fine.
Great review. I thought is was me going nuts as cross cutting oak no longer gives me a square flat face. I assumed it was the blade getting worn but after watching this video confirms it is the blade and not me. Just need to find a supplier here in Aus.
Diablo in the States is the Freud blade over here. It actually says on the US blades Freud Diablo. Great vid. There’s a slot in the throat plate which one of the spanner ends fits into to ease the plate out. But, the quarter turn locking button isn’t the best idea. 👍
That is a great blade. Think you would get an even better cut with a ripping blade with fewer teeth. If you're cutting a lot of timber the blade would run cooler. Enjoyed the video
Cheers bud! I cut a lot of MDF and ply so went with the higher tooth count but must admit I was in two minds. The Freud web site is hopeless and Screwfix says "Long Grain Cut" for this blade, which is bollocks. 😃
Yes. I have a Bosch GTS10 recently given to me by my father. I wanted to upgrade from the standard blade that it came with, although it hadn't seen much use from new. Given that Bosch own Freud i was talked into a twin blade combo set labelled as Bosch. Wish i had spent less money on the pro blade you have. Thanks
Depends on ripping like this or cross cutting. Cross cutting produces finer chips so a small gullet can cope and more teeth gets a better result,generally. But ripping produces longer 'stringy' fibres and needs a bigger gullet or everything gets clogged and burns.
I love my DW745, but I noticed the other day that the table has a bulge in the middle to the left of the insert plate of around 0.75mm....seems quite a lot when you put an engineering straight edge against it, but not sure it's really affecting my crackets
I have the same saw Andy and it does the same with the wiggle vibration. And I've not got my guard or riving knife in either. (I've commented two mins into the video so I'll go watch the rest to find out what happens)
The original blade is definitely dull, you can "hear it sufffering" while you are cutting. Any variation on the pitch of sound (clearly heard) means the blade is changing it speed and this promotes the appearance of lateral waves. The speed can change because the motor is "overcharged" by the cut and much easily heard when you stop feeding the wood as you can hear also with the new blade and consequently a lateral wave and mark the wood as you show. To avoid this problem is not easy because additional to a sharp blade, the feeding speed has to be CONSTANT without stops or feed change. Feeding speed depends on how much work is requiered that depends on the blade thickness, the heigh of the wood and the numer of teeths and of course how powerfull is the motor to deliver that work for each revolution. If you use a blade with more teeth like in this case, you are demanding more work from the motor because in each turn you are cutting 60 times, on the original i can see 40 only. If you feed too fast you also need more power, higher the wood more work is required. saludos Gerardo
Lmao, drop the spanner then, “Bollox” I creased up when that came out. Anything that creates a smile in life has to be a good thing, I love your sense of humour, keep up the good work pal, all the best, Ricky
Hi,having watched your videos with the saw, I ordered one and also the freud blade. Unfortunately when the saw came I couldnt square the blade properly to the table, one side was a perfect 90 but the other was way out. As the look at the saw from the front, the blade would square perfectly on the left side but was nowhere near on the right. A phone call to dewalt eventually resulted in the man saying the saw could be faulty and to send it back to the supplier, just my luck. I am now waiting for the saw to be collected and swapped for another. Best regards Mick.
Really like this video....I have been looking at the DeWalt DW745 and the Rigid R4516....The Rigid appeared to have a really shoddy dust collection blade cover....and I thought the Dewalt DW745 had a really good dust collection system....BUT....have you found your DeWalt dust collection system works well with your shop Vac..Or....do I see a 100 lbs of sawdust on the floor !!! :) .........Did all that saw dust still manage to fall to the floor even when using the shop Vac ? Thanks for all your time and help with this.....And you have a super nice little shop there !!!
The dust port on the 745 with a shop vac is excellent - and you can add extra extraction to the blade cover if you like, but I don't bother with that. Don't worry, the dust under the table saw is just my default location where I sweep up other sawdust to before it eventually makes it to the bin. That dust isn't from the table saw. :-)
Thanks for the quick response....I just like more of the features on the DeWalt DW745 over the Rigid R4516......DeWalt appears to be a more thought out platform.....Thanks for the help and looking forward to your next videos .......
Help please! The Black & Decker (De Walt) help desk are not responding. How do you fix the throat plate with that silly piece of black plastic that just rotates and doesn't seem connected to anything beneath the plate???
I noticed when you were feeding the material into the new blade (@12:50), the material wasn’t flat to the table. You had it at an angle. Could that be the result of your problems?
Of course it’s gonna make a big difference. You just can’t compare those two blades. In order to compare two blades both of them need to have same amount of teeth.
Hi Andy, just got a different model to yours DWE7485 and bought a new blade but forgot to check the kerf. Turns out the new one I bought is 2.4 and the stock blade it comes with is 1.8. Does this mean I can’t use the better blade I bought to go in it? Thanks in advance or if anyone else with the answer would like to comment too. Cheers
Ive been looking at one of these for a while, i would have liked to seen a comparision against a new Dewalt blade though. That way it would have been more of a "like for like".
I have a cheap table saw, and the difference when I put Freud blade in it was unbelievable. Had to check at first as it didn't feel like it was actually cutting. Lol have Freud blades in mitre saw and track saw now 👍 Can I ask where u found the best price for the dewalt table saw as I'm looking to upgrade. Mainly for the fence system it has
Difficult to compare a used blade with a brand new. Also the Freud is in another price range. So honestly no surprise its better. ;-) But Bosch (Best for Wood, Expert for Wood) or Stehle are also making very good blades in a similar price range.
Vibrations in a saw blade can be caused by: to less teeth in relation with the thickness of the material to cut. Dull blade (or chipt out carbide tips). Those are the two main reasons. If i see the burn marks on the cut of your old blade and how you need to "push" the wood, it looks dull to me. The 60t blade seems more suiteble for the thickness of this material. Aa a guidline the best is to have 2 or max 3 teeth cutting in the wood. (ripcut) means how thicker the wood the less teeth , how thinner the more teeth. This minimum is necessary to guide the saw blade well during cutting. Best regards.
this was a really good video and comparison.. however it was kind of like a comparison between tomatoes and apples... yeah theyre both a fruit.. but a machete and a fillet are both knives.. so you compared a ripping blade or "construction" as they called it.. vs a finish cutting blade... the original blade is designed to have a large about of lumber put through it to make rough cuts... if you took that new blade onto a roughing jobsite.. it'd be dead in a day or two... but that dewalt blade would be good for months or more? so, as I said I loved the video.. as far as presentation it was A+.. but trying to fillet a fish with a machete might be tough... while a fillet knife wouldnt last long bushwacking. thanks for the good content! from Canada!
Cheers Gary! It's an alternate bevel (ATB) blade so cuts a 'V' shape - might be problematic if you use it for rebates. Also worth checking out the twin pack SKU 6419H that Screwfix do - £39.99 for 2 really nice blades!
Hi Gosforth, thanks that i tumbled in to your video. thats the blade i want to buy for my Bosch. i will be mostly cutting plywood (home projects) is this blade a good choice for plywood? please help guide, many thanks in advance.
Hello ...I think you will find the cuts around the periphery of the blade are for when the blade heats up to stop anyexpansion rippling the edge of the blade.👍 hope this helps from a fellow northerner YOUR MARKS IN THE SAWCUT ARE CAUSED BY YOU STOPPING MID CUT😮
Great video! I'm considering adding a 745 to my small shop and your comments during the install were extremely helpful. I have to ask, are you in Newcastle, perhaps?
I've been there a couple of times for work. Stayed at the Marriott at Gosforth Park one time. When I saw Gosforth I wondered, but after listening to your accent I figured "definitely a Jordy!" Love that part of England and can't wait to get back some time.
Take your old original Dewalt blade and soak it in adhesive remover. Overtime residues from plywood and tree sap can build up on the blade causing the judder you're experiencing.
Had you ever try to just clean the saw blade? first with just warm water and soap, then dry it, clean it with a solvent like white spirit / paint thinner etc. If you keep the left over washing liquid in some clear containers you will be able to see how much dirt that was on the blade, and in some cases the blade will be usable again without sharpening at all, of course it depend on what kind of wood you were cutting, some wood species leave much more stuff on the blade than others.
If you want to improve the bottom side finish make a zero clearance insert - I have the latest version of this table saw and the insert makes a great difference.
Mike Crossley You may have some saw dust behind the blade, or warped blade, or chipped or missing tooth on a blade. The problem with the slight wobble on my saw blade (same saw and a Freud blade) was that I didn’t get all the saw dust off the arbor and some sawdust got between the arbor flange and the blade body. (Was in too big a hurry. Now I brush it off every time). I have seen blades warped when I bought them or after extreme use but never a Freud blade. And the Freud blade works great on my DEWALT table saw. If it is the blade Freud will most likely repair or replace it.
Comparing the cut from a older and used 24T blade with the cut from a brand new 60T blade ? Yes of coarse there is a big difference. Even when the 24T blade is new there will be. When comparing, use a 60T Dewalt Series60TM (DT4311) with that Freud 60 Tooth blade. See if you can tell the difference in that.
Can I ask why you are not using the riving knife? It seemed to me that your original blade was dull, but it was also likely getting pinch and causing it to vibrate even more?
I have EXACTLY the same two nags about the 745... but the on/off button is truly badly thought out, and quite dangerous actually! thank you for the great videos and for sharing your work. best wishes, Evangelos
Cheers - good to know it's not just me! 😀 I now use the remote socket switch more to switch it off, I keep the remote next to where the push stick gets stored - seems much safer. 👍🛠
Xylon Guitars my brand new 745 on off switch is exactly the same so they haven't improved it yet. Apart from that and the loosely fitted mitre gauge the saw is awesome.
Xylon Guitars that's a great idea. I'm coming from a cheap Clarke (machine mart) table saw where nothing is upgradable. So now I have something propper I can look at these upgrades. Thanks for the idea.
Super interesting! I'm wondering, can you remember how well the original blade performed when it was new? Would be interesting to know how much of a difference it would make if one got a new good quality table saw and changed the blade for a Freud right away.
The higher tooth count on the Freud also helps with better cuts. When I need to do edge glue ups I use my 60 tooth Freud. For general work I use the 40 tooth combination blade.
Hi One question or remark 60 tooth for ripping ? is it not overdesigned. For ripping more logic seems to be use 24 or similar. Not as complain just as open question.
Hi Gosforth, Very nice channel! I want to buy a Dewalt DWE7485RS tablesaw, but got a question about the sawblade.... So I want to buy also a Freud Pro 210x30-48T blade for my Dewalt. This blade is only 2,4mm thick and is meant to be used in battery-powered machines....Do you think it also works safe on the Dewalt DWE7485RS? Best Regards, Thommy
On my blister for the LP40M 250 it said 2,4mm thickness as well. So that would be a thin kerf? It fits ideally on my Inca Major Swiss circlesaw with 2.0mm riving knife.
Boa noite amigo, estava vendo seu vídeo e parece que realmente este disco da Freud é muito bom, gostei do seu vídeo pq é bem caseiro e para hobysta como eu esta lâmina vai ser ótima, um abraço, Almir aqui da freguesia do ó São Paulo - Brasil
Great video. Freud makes great blades as does Diablo. Now please don't take offense to this and I know you like that saw but you can only do so much with a table top saw like that. Yes a better blade is going to help and for financial reasons this may work for many. But you need to upgrade to a cabinet saw. Delta makes a great and affordable saw that would not just eliminate your issue but would make you wish you had bought one sooner. As stable as your setup may seem your not going to get rid of vibration until you get a bigger saw. Very useful video thanks brother
Cheers for watching! Totally agree with you and thanks for leaving a great comment 👍. At the moment I just don't have the space and I need a saw that I can take to job sites but I'd LOVE a proper cabinet saw with infeed / outfeed at some point if I ever get a bigger shop! One day etc etc. 😃 Btw I think Freud and Diablo are the same company... I think!
I'm not even sure Delta sell in the UK, there are many alternatives but he's got a 25m2 shop where a big saw may kinda take over. Sometimes space, budget and usage requirements dictate compromises.
I've got a small Kity tablesaw and it's a bit pants, I'm going the other way and changing to the DW745. Different people, different experiences I guess.
Just watched this video Andy I have sheppah type and the standard blade is doing the same I will swap out with a better blade especially after watching this as my cuts are shite ps cant wait for your new cave lol
Before saying anything to do with 60T blades not being for rip cuts please read this article:
gosforthhandyman.com/2017/07/dewalt-dw745-blade-change-freud/
Product links to Freud blades and DeWalt table saw in video description and in the article above. Cheers y'all! 👍😀
i red the article, but since i work with saw blades every day, i can assure you that the way these theeth are on the blade, 15 degree possitive and 15 degree beveled, this will cut long grain prob allright when its new without to many problems, but on the long therem, when your blade is getting older, you risk to burn the motor from your tablesaw, because this blade hasnt the design to cut long grain, long grain has long fibers, and this blade isnt capeble of getting rid of it fast enough, therfore, the blade wil faster overheat, it will start to wobble, and your motor from the tablesaw has to work 3 times as hard as when you use a blade that is designed for long grain a ripcut saw will have somewhere around 24 teeth on a 250 mm sawblade, with a 20 degree positive angle and 10 degree bevel.also the cut ins in the blade is not designed as a anti vibration, it is desiged so the metal from the blade itself has room to expand to prevent wobble when the blade heats up as much as possible, and that is a very different thing. no matter what factory tells you to sell their product, there is a reason that they have different sawblades for diferent jobs
Hi andy just got this saw in 110v version was cutting 2x2 with the supplied blade and machine seemed to be struggling would this improve alot if i got say a 40 tooth or 60 tooth blade. Also being 110v should make it less powerful would it. Most of my other tools track saw are 110v and been fine
@@offcuts4146 24tooth should be better for rip cutting everyday, unless the blade Is dull
@@dclinks thanks i will try that
Whats a general good all round blade to get? 60 tooth?
That was the most accurate blade change I've seen 😂😂😂 the frustration of dropping things and reading the manual. Nailed it
If you use a feather board on your table saw you will get an even better cut. Hand feeding such long pieces also causes what you might think is due to blade vibration.
The blunt blade and the fact that table saw is not meant for super accurate cuts means it is going to have wobble.
If he can improve that with a higher end blade why not. Featherboard would make a difference when feeding.
Same saw...about 5-6 years old, original blade. Yesterday, I struggled to get clean accurate cuts in some plywood, and some cedar boards. I had thoughts about getting a new blade, and tomorrow, I certainly will....Good video.
I’ve got the Dewalt 7491 table saw. It sounds like you need to clean and lubricate the height adjustment screw (see instruction manual section, Lubrication). A Woodcraft rep recommended I use a bicycle dry lube and I’ve been happy with it.
Over the last decade I've trained myself to always add 1/32" to widths to allow me to hit every cut piece on my DW747 on my Ridgid planer/jointer set at 1/32" cuts. Never a problem even with my Freud blades, which I prize.
Part of the issues with the rip cut are because you havent got your riving knife in. The timber has pinched a bit and gouged. Also, zero clearance plate would help too.
My yellow dewalt blade even cuts melamine/laminates with barely any chipping. I'm really happy with mine. Still can't get over the raw power of the machine when it starts up. Only machine I have which I have full respect for
The blades on portable table saws are made for the saw's target market, construction. Construction was printed on the blade. But yes, Freud makes some awesome blades among other stuff.
I just want to thank you for your video and article. I took your advice and I got the Freud 60T for my DW745 table saw and the cuts are just phenomenon! You are so right. No comparison. Off course the factory Dewalt blade is marked and for Construction. It cuts fast but it is not suitable for furniture making. Thanks again. Stefan.
No worries - it's a great blade! 👍
I thought the blade that came with my track saw was good until I replaced it with a Freud... they're great blades. Glad they're making your life better!
Cheers Phil - wish I'd done it sooner tbh! Might change out the blade in my mitre saw while I'm at it. 👍🛠
Hi Andy - not sure its a totally fair comparison between such a higher tooth count and it being brand new but I've followed your advice and gone for the same replacement blade. Couldn't agree more about the DW745 by the way, both it's pros and cons.
Hi just come across this video, I had the same problem when I bought my saw 4+ years ago, terrible vibration on the blade, I sent it back in the box with 2 bits of cut timber showing the excessive marks on the timber, but the seller sent it back saying it was fine, it was terrible!!. I took it to a Dewalt repaire shop in Durham where they gave me an exchange.The table top bows down in the middle, so getting anything to cut at 90deg is a nightmare, also meaning the fence is off at 90 deg to the table. The actual washer which holds the blade is suppose to be 30mm, but every blade I use with a 30mm bore is slightly oversized, so obviously the washer is undersizes.(I have dewalt and 6 Freud pro blades, they can't all be wrong). Also since new the saw has grunted it's way through cuts, I have to go extra slow on cuts. I honestly believe I got a rejected saw. You also have the same shop vac. I made a zero tol insert plate and a knee paddle for the 'on off' switch. But it's nice to see a local lad on youtube.Love your workshop. Thanks for the video. I'm from Ashington.
The slots are for blade cooling, although they also assist in blade deflection when they get a little blunt.
We have the same table saw! Very handy on different job sites! Great video!
Cheers - great saw! 👍
Great workshop by the way.
Just finished fitting our Kitchen using the Freud Pro. on the kitchen cornice. Spot on, made up.
I changed to a Freud Pro on my chop saw cuts like butter. The one thing I did notice when cutting MDF it tended to clog up with the wood dust between the teeth so I had to keep brushing the blade clear.
I'm hoping to get the Dewalt DW745 I'll change to the Freud Pro.
Great video
Great blades - I've now got the 60 tooth on my chop saw and a rip blade on the 745. Think I preferred the 60 on the 745 though but depends what you're cutting. 👍
I am in New Zealand and have just bought two replacement blades for my Makita jobsite saw. Lots of teeth, carbide tipped. 10NZ$ each. That’s £6 each. They cut fine. Guess where they are made. I hope the teeth stay stuck. I examined every weld just in case.😀
I also bought a bench grinder for 39NZD. It runs smoothly. My Makita comes with a thin kerf blade. Less power required. Back in Blighty I have a Sedgwick. There ain’t no comparison in use and safety. If I was starting again I’d buy a Sawstop with a mortgage.
I like Sawstop while they're made by Sawstop. I'd be nervous when the patent runs out and everyone starts chucking them out. 👍😀
Just fyi, the Freud Pro is considered a better grade than the Diablo, which is made by Freud also. I've only used Diablo and they work well in my circular saw and miter saw, best blade for the price, and what I'd normally use. But I'm thinking of upgrading to the Pro next time I need a blade for my DW745. Just setting it up.
Interesting - shops just don't seem to stock the Diablo blades over here for some reason! 👍
My common refrain: "Pencil? Where the hell is that pencil! I just had it a second ago. I'll just go get another one. Where the hell is that other one? Damn!"
Whatever happened to chippies poking pencil behind the right ear to not lose it ??
I've just bought the dewalt dw745, upgraded from a clarke, the difference is amazing and I was looking at changing the blade out for a Freud. At the moment the dewalt base is doing fine and I can't afford it!! But now I know the Freud is way better I will change it out in the future. And the best is I learned this from someone less than 40 miles up the A1 from me😀 thanks
The 745 is a great saw - welcome to the channel! 👍🛠
Gosforth Handyman thanks I'll look through some of your videos tonight
Iv'e got the same saw as you and I changed the DeWalt blade for a Freud 40T today and ripped some wood down for a door frame and got the same result you did, the difference is amazing, the DeWalt blade always left those marks from the day I bought it, if that side was to show when the job was finished I would have to sand it, well worth the cost of the new blade.
I put a Diablo blade on my very old black and decker hand saw and on a ryobi job site saw, it improved them both to the point that all i am going to by now is a Diablo.
Awesome blades. 👍
Freud does make a great blade but I'm not sure you wouldn't have seen just as good results with a new Dewalt blade with a similar amount of teeth. Comparing the old Dewalt blade which probably has thousands of cuts on it and less teeth than the Freud is like comparing apples and oranges, though I'm sure Freud, if they're watching thank you for the plug. I'm sure your saw thanks you too because you probably just cut the amount of energy it had to use in half by having to force that dull blade through that piece of pine. It must really have loved it when you fed it hard woods. Any imperfections you're seeing in the Freud cut are most likely being caused by your board being cupped and having the outside of the cup down and when you regrip to push more you're probably rolling the board slightly into the side of the blade. I know you just grabbed any board for the purpose of your demonstration but sawing jointed lumber as opposed to unjointed lumber will make a difference in the quality of the cut as well. Enjoyed the video.
The biggest problem with the DeWalt is blade vibration and many others have had the same problem - the blade wasn't particularly dull and the board wasn't cupped. I'm sure DeWalt make equally good blades - thanks for watching! 👍
I agree, Dewalt makes great blades. Keep them clean and sharpen them BEFORE they get hot and warp.
I mean the yellow dewalt blades. The one you took our of your saw looks pretty cheap to me.
I live in Sweden (although I'm English) and I can tell you that the decimal point here, as in most of the continent, is a comma. That means that 2,4 is the same as 2·4 (or 2.4) in the UK. They also use what we call a decimal point to denote thousands (I kid you not!) so what would be 1,000 in the UK is 1.000 or even 1 000 on the continent. I still get confused. Thanks for the excellent video, I'm now convinced to get the same Freud blade for my Bosch GTS10J.
Cheers for watching Alan - thought that must have been what it meant! Think it must be a mis-print on the packaging as nothing about this blade is 2.4! Weird... 😜
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Great video, thanks for posting. I have the same saw and while it is a great tool I had similar complaints to yours. There is a simple fix to the problem with the insert locking "tab". I too found it wasn't positive enough and on occasion it would unscrew when I tried to just loosen for removal. Undo the screw completely, clean both male and female threads, mix up the smallest bit of epoxy adhesive, put it in the hole and screw back up. Put the insert back in the table and adjust for clearance/ fit. Allow the epoxy to set up and bingo the job is done, the tab is held securely but when undoing the screw no longer backs out. I made an oversize "kill switch" for the saw from 2 rubber door stops, some ply offcuts and a small cabinet hinge- it's easy to find when using the saw and I can "find" it with my knee when working with oversize pieces.
One question for you, what are you using for dust collection, I'm just using a cheap shop vac at the moment and find that a lot of the dust is fired at the operator because (shame on me) I don't use the flimsy crown guard (difficult to see anything with it- the ones supplied with US saws seem much better). Thanks
Great tips! I'm using a cheapy Woodstar DC04 dust extractor - 1100W. Noisy but works really well! 👍🛠
I understand yiu wanting to keep the blade protruding down to a minimum but a tip to always use for a better cut and longer life etc etc is the blade height should always allow for the gullet of the blade to be higher than your wood. The gullet if you dont know is the cervice between each teeth, Having them protruding past allows for better cleanout of material, better airflow, a cleaner cut and a longer life for the blade.
There's so many mixed reports on what the blade height should be - I prefer it low and get perfect cuts with the Freud but if you prefer it higher that's dandy. 😃👍
Ever since i saw a miter saw start without the trigger being pressed i always make sure the machines are plugged out before i switch a blade .......just incase .
Indeed - wise words. Mine's always switched off at the mains when not in use.
First thing to do when you get a new saw is to sack off the OEM supplied blade. I have the type 1 745 with the old fence, the new flip over fence like yours is 10x better.
Yeah the fence is great! 👍
Thank you for bringing that problem to my attention. Excellent looking shop.
I saw this video a few months ago and got one of these saws and stands today (my christmas present to myself) and tried your initial test today. I did three cuts two in pine, one in oak cabinet door panel stile and both had the same problem as your factory blade and mine is brand new. Will give it a few more chances as it could have been me, But will probably go for the Freud in the end. Cheers.
Like others have said - that Frued blade is a crosscut blade. A rip blade has less teeth and deeper gullets. Also be careful to make sure that the riving knife is the same or slightly narrower than the blade.
Just to confirm, the Freud blade is not a crosscut-only blade. Read the full article here for further info.:
gosforthhandyman.com/2017/07/dewalt-dw745-blade-change-freud/
hahahahah "what am I doing?! I came over here for something" man so glad I'm not the only one lolol
Welcome to the channel! 😂
Me too.. tho at 56 I think I have a valid excuse! hehe.
Same here, ten times a day, "what the fook did I come up here for?".
Im getting a new blade right now !!. The dewalt cut you made, is just the same way my cuts are. About the throatplate, I have made a zero clearence insert from MDF. Works fine.
Cheers for watching - makes a huge difference!
Would you expect the same results from a Freud blade after the same amount of use as the DeWalt?
Great review. I thought is was me going nuts as cross cutting oak no longer gives me a square flat face. I assumed it was the blade getting worn but after watching this video confirms it is the blade and not me. Just need to find a supplier here in Aus.
Diablo in the States is the Freud blade over here. It actually says on the US blades Freud Diablo. Great vid.
There’s a slot in the throat plate which one of the spanner ends fits into to ease the plate out. But, the quarter turn locking button isn’t the best idea. 👍
Also helps when you clean the resin build up the the blades. I did put a diablo blade on my rockwell, works great.
That is a great blade.
Think you would get an even better cut with a ripping blade with fewer teeth.
If you're cutting a lot of timber the blade would run cooler.
Enjoyed the video
Cheers bud! I cut a lot of MDF and ply so went with the higher tooth count but must admit I was in two minds. The Freud web site is hopeless and Screwfix says "Long Grain Cut" for this blade, which is bollocks. 😃
Yes. I have a Bosch GTS10 recently given to me by my father. I wanted to upgrade from the standard blade that it came with, although it hadn't seen much use from new.
Given that Bosch own Freud i was talked into a twin blade combo set labelled as Bosch.
Wish i had spent less money on the pro blade you have. Thanks
Depends on ripping like this or cross cutting.
Cross cutting produces finer chips so a small gullet can cope and more teeth gets a better result,generally.
But ripping produces longer 'stringy' fibres and needs a bigger gullet or everything gets clogged and burns.
I love my DW745, but I noticed the other day that the table has a bulge in the middle to the left of the insert plate of around 0.75mm....seems quite a lot when you put an engineering straight edge against it, but not sure it's really affecting my crackets
I have the same saw Andy and it does the same with the wiggle vibration. And I've not got my guard or riving knife in either. (I've commented two mins into the video so I'll go watch the rest to find out what happens)
The original blade is definitely dull, you can "hear it sufffering" while you are cutting.
Any variation on the pitch of sound (clearly heard) means the blade is changing it speed and this promotes the appearance of lateral waves.
The speed can change because the motor is "overcharged" by the cut and much easily heard when you stop feeding the wood as you can hear also with the new blade and consequently a lateral wave and mark the wood as you show.
To avoid this problem is not easy because additional to a sharp blade, the feeding speed has to be CONSTANT without stops or feed change.
Feeding speed depends on how much work is requiered that depends on the blade thickness, the heigh of the wood and the numer of teeths and of course how powerfull is the motor to deliver that work for each revolution.
If you use a blade with more teeth like in this case, you are demanding more work from the motor because in each turn you are cutting 60 times, on the original i can see 40 only.
If you feed too fast you also need more power, higher the wood more work is required.
saludos
Gerardo
Most of the Dewalt reviews I have seen say the saws are good but throw away the blade they come with.
Lmao, drop the spanner then, “Bollox” I creased up when that came out. Anything that creates a smile in life has to be a good thing, I love your sense of humour, keep up the good work pal, all the best, Ricky
Hi,having watched your videos with the saw, I ordered one and also the freud blade. Unfortunately when the saw came I couldnt square the blade properly to the table, one side was a perfect 90 but the other was way out. As the look at the saw from the front, the blade would square perfectly on the left side but was nowhere near on the right. A phone call to dewalt eventually resulted in the man saying the saw could be faulty and to send it back to the supplier, just my luck. I am now waiting for the saw to be collected and swapped for another. Best regards Mick.
Oh no - hope you get sorted Mick! 👍
Thank you ,I take it your saw is square both sides of the blade?
I would set the fence so that the wide side of the board is against it. Less likelihood of binding.
Thank god they changed the way the throat plate goes on with upgraded DW745. There's just a simple dial that attaches it now.
The gap maybe a result of not blade vibrating but timber feeding ?
Really like this video....I have been looking at the DeWalt DW745 and the Rigid R4516....The Rigid appeared to have a really shoddy dust collection blade cover....and I thought the Dewalt DW745 had a really good dust collection system....BUT....have you found your DeWalt dust collection system works well with your shop Vac..Or....do I see a 100 lbs of sawdust on the floor !!! :) .........Did all that saw dust still manage to fall to the floor even when using the shop Vac ? Thanks for all your time and help with this.....And you have a super nice little shop there !!!
The dust port on the 745 with a shop vac is excellent - and you can add extra extraction to the blade cover if you like, but I don't bother with that. Don't worry, the dust under the table saw is just my default location where I sweep up other sawdust to before it eventually makes it to the bin. That dust isn't from the table saw. :-)
Thanks for the quick response....I just like more of the features on the DeWalt DW745 over the Rigid R4516......DeWalt appears to be a more thought out platform.....Thanks for the help and looking forward to your next videos .......
Diablo saw blades are made by Freud :)
Help please! The Black & Decker (De Walt) help desk are not responding. How do you fix the throat plate with that silly piece of black plastic that just rotates and doesn't seem connected to anything beneath the plate???
Mate, I have the same table saw, and I have the same problem with vibration. Going out to buy a new blade. Thanks for the tip.
Huge difference - cheers for watching!
I'm soooooo close to buying this saw !!
andrew bridgefoot me tooooo!!!
I bought it !
Not used it yet though !
I always take the plug out before going anywhere near the blade!
i change all my circular saws table saws plunge saws to freud what a difference especially on the makita track saw
Fantastic! Exactly what i was looking for
I noticed when you were feeding the material into the new blade (@12:50), the material wasn’t flat to the table. You had it at an angle. Could that be the result of your problems?
Of course it’s gonna make a big difference. You just can’t compare those two blades. In order to compare two blades both of them need to have same amount of teeth.
It isn't a comparison. It's to explain why you should upgrade from the factory blade.
I;ve been trying to get my hands on this saw but now they only sell DWE7485, which uses an 8 1/4 blade.
Hi Andy, just got a different model to yours DWE7485 and bought a new blade but forgot to check the kerf. Turns out the new one I bought is 2.4 and the stock blade it comes with is 1.8. Does this mean I can’t use the better blade I bought to go in it? Thanks in advance or if anyone else with the answer would like to comment too. Cheers
Ive been looking at one of these for a while, i would have liked to seen a comparision against a new Dewalt blade though. That way it would have been more of a "like for like".
I have a DeWalt 745 as well my only gripe is that you cannot fit a dado blade to it which is a shame
I highly recommend making yourself a set of zero clearance inserts for your saw. You won't regret it.
One of many things I need to sort 😃 although with that blade I get so little tearout I don't really need it! On my to do list though. 👍
Just made a set of zero throat plates for my 7491 after fitting the same Freud blade. If ya think it’s good now.....
I have a cheap table saw, and the difference when I put Freud blade in it was unbelievable. Had to check at first as it didn't feel like it was actually cutting. Lol have Freud blades in mitre saw and track saw now 👍
Can I ask where u found the best price for the dewalt table saw as I'm looking to upgrade. Mainly for the fence system it has
I think I got it from Toolstop in the UK but can't remember - was a few years ago. 👍
Difficult to compare a used blade with a brand new. Also the Freud is in another price range. So honestly no surprise its better. ;-) But Bosch (Best for Wood, Expert for Wood) or Stehle are also making very good blades in a similar price range.
Vibrations in a saw blade can be caused by: to less teeth in relation with the thickness of the material to cut. Dull blade (or chipt out carbide tips). Those are the two main reasons. If i see the burn marks on the cut of your old blade and how you need to "push" the wood, it looks dull to me. The 60t blade seems more suiteble for the thickness of this material. Aa a guidline the best is to have 2 or max 3 teeth cutting in the wood. (ripcut) means how thicker the wood the less teeth , how thinner the more teeth. This minimum is necessary to guide the saw blade well during cutting.
Best regards.
Old blade was still pretty sharp but had issues from new. The 60T blade is much better for how I work. 👍
this was a really good video and comparison.. however it was kind of like a comparison between tomatoes and apples... yeah theyre both a fruit.. but a machete and a fillet are both knives.. so you compared a ripping blade or "construction" as they called it.. vs a finish cutting blade... the original blade is designed to have a large about of lumber put through it to make rough cuts... if you took that new blade onto a roughing jobsite.. it'd be dead in a day or two... but that dewalt blade would be good for months or more? so, as I said I loved the video.. as far as presentation it was A+.. but trying to fillet a fish with a machete might be tough... while a fillet knife wouldnt last long bushwacking.
thanks for the good content! from Canada!
Think I'll get the blade tomorrow, great video, a lot of guys do have this saw and the wobble problem also. Thanks for sharing 👍😄
Cheers Gary! It's an alternate bevel (ATB) blade so cuts a 'V' shape - might be problematic if you use it for rebates. Also worth checking out the twin pack SKU 6419H that Screwfix do - £39.99 for 2 really nice blades!
Screwfix must have noticed your recommendation...up to £58.49 now!!
Hi Gosforth, thanks that i tumbled in to your video. thats the blade i want to buy for my Bosch. i will be mostly cutting plywood (home projects) is this blade a good choice for plywood? please help guide, many thanks in advance.
Hello ...I think you will find the cuts around the periphery of the blade are for when the blade heats up to stop anyexpansion rippling the edge of the blade.👍 hope this helps from a fellow northerner YOUR MARKS IN THE SAWCUT ARE CAUSED BY YOU STOPPING MID CUT😮
Great video! I'm considering adding a 745 to my small shop and your comments during the install were extremely helpful. I have to ask, are you in Newcastle, perhaps?
Sure am! 👍🛠
I've been there a couple of times for work. Stayed at the Marriott at Gosforth Park one time. When I saw Gosforth I wondered, but after listening to your accent I figured "definitely a Jordy!" Love that part of England and can't wait to get back some time.
Take your old original Dewalt blade and soak it in adhesive remover. Overtime residues from plywood and tree sap can build up on the blade causing the judder you're experiencing.
what a difference! I have the same saw and I'm going to be ordering a Freud blade for it.
Had you ever try to just clean the saw blade? first with just warm water and soap, then dry it, clean it with a solvent like white spirit / paint thinner etc. If you keep the left over washing liquid in some clear containers you will be able to see how much dirt that was on the blade, and in some cases the blade will be usable again without sharpening at all, of course it depend on what kind of wood you were cutting, some wood species leave much more stuff on the blade than others.
I would like for you to demonstrate in another video how the old blade goes once again .
How to fit a blade in a 745?
If you want to improve the bottom side finish make a zero clearance insert - I have the latest version of this table saw and the insert makes a great difference.
Cheers - not really a problem for MDF 👍
Hey mate, have you had any wobble with the Freud blade since you installed it? Cheers, mike.
None at all - rock steady! 👍
Mike Crossley You may have some saw dust behind the blade, or warped blade, or chipped or missing tooth on a blade. The problem with the slight wobble on my saw blade (same saw and a Freud blade) was that I didn’t get all the saw dust off the arbor and some sawdust got between the arbor flange and the blade body. (Was in too big a hurry. Now I brush it off every time). I have seen blades warped when I bought them or after extreme use but never a Freud blade. And the Freud blade works great on my DEWALT table saw. If it is the blade Freud will most likely repair or replace it.
I have read that there is a lot of play in mitre gauge slots.
Comparing the cut from a older and used 24T blade with the cut from a brand new 60T blade ? Yes of coarse there is a big difference. Even when the 24T blade is new there will be.
When comparing, use a 60T Dewalt Series60TM (DT4311) with that Freud 60 Tooth blade. See if you can tell the difference in that.
That's the whole point of this video.
Can I ask why you are not using the riving knife? It seemed to me that your original blade was dull, but it was also likely getting pinch and causing it to vibrate even more?
You may start by keeping you material you cutting flat on the table.
Blade doesn’t matter if you don’t handle the material properly.
I have EXACTLY the same two nags about the 745... but the on/off button is truly badly thought out, and quite dangerous actually! thank you for the great videos and for sharing your work. best wishes, Evangelos
Cheers - good to know it's not just me! 😀 I now use the remote socket switch more to switch it off, I keep the remote next to where the push stick gets stored - seems much safer. 👍🛠
Xylon Guitars my brand new 745 on off switch is exactly the same so they haven't improved it yet. Apart from that and the loosely fitted mitre gauge the saw is awesome.
Andrew McQuillen I've splashed out for the incra mitre gauge and don't regret it!
Xylon Guitars that's a great idea. I'm coming from a cheap Clarke (machine mart) table saw where nothing is upgradable. So now I have something propper I can look at these upgrades. Thanks for the idea.
a pleasure! keep us posted... I am always very keen in seeing creative upgrades for those machines. best wishes, Evangelos
Super interesting! I'm wondering, can you remember how well the original blade performed when it was new? Would be interesting to know how much of a difference it would make if one got a new good quality table saw and changed the blade for a Freud right away.
The stock blade never performed particularly well... but I didn't know any better. 👍
That's a good size workshop you've got. Can I ask what size it is? What's the roof height too please? Cheers. Keep it up.
It's about 250 sq ft - think the ceiling is only about 2.2m. 👍
@@GosforthHandyman thanks. Is the height according to council regulations?
The higher tooth count on the Freud also helps with better cuts. When I need to do edge glue ups I use my 60 tooth Freud. For general work I use the 40 tooth combination blade.
Yup - agree. I've got the 40T on at the moment for general use... but must admit I preferred the 60T. 👍
Hi One question or remark 60 tooth for ripping ? is it not overdesigned. For ripping more logic seems to be use 24 or similar. Not as complain just as open question.
I get nervous when my blades go "broouuhooo" too, Andy. Haunted tools from my Grandfather mainly! Great vid as usual.
Ha ha - cheers Mark! 👍👻
Does the freud blade work ok with the dewalt's riving knife?
I clicked on this video and immediately heard "wan't bat'n goff a thundy mundy deh"
Lol "Welcome back to Gosforth Handyman". I don't have a strong accent! 😂
@@GosforthHandyman You sure don't sound like anyone in Montana I know.
Hi Gosforth,
Very nice channel!
I want to buy a Dewalt DWE7485RS tablesaw, but got a question about the sawblade.... So I want to buy also a Freud Pro 210x30-48T blade for my Dewalt. This blade is only 2,4mm thick and is meant to be used in battery-powered machines....Do you think it also works safe on the Dewalt DWE7485RS?
Best Regards,
Thommy
No answer :-(
On my blister for the LP40M 250 it said 2,4mm thickness as well. So that would be a thin kerf? It fits ideally on my Inca Major Swiss circlesaw with 2.0mm riving knife.
I think the packaging is wrong - it's 2.8mm kerf (2.86mm on mine). 👍
Boa noite amigo, estava vendo seu vídeo e parece que realmente este disco da Freud é muito bom, gostei do seu vídeo pq é bem caseiro e para hobysta como eu esta lâmina vai ser ótima, um abraço, Almir aqui da freguesia do ó São Paulo - Brasil
Hi! I m thinking about the same upgrade. How is this work so far? Thanks
Hi Andy..Can you fit a dado blade on your table saw?
You are a tool fan , good choice sir
Great video. Freud makes great blades as does Diablo. Now please don't take offense to this and I know you like that saw but you can only do so much with a table top saw like that. Yes a better blade is going to help and for financial reasons this may work for many. But you need to upgrade to a cabinet saw. Delta makes a great and affordable saw that would not just eliminate your issue but would make you wish you had bought one sooner. As stable as your setup may seem your not going to get rid of vibration until you get a bigger saw. Very useful video thanks brother
Cheers for watching! Totally agree with you and thanks for leaving a great comment 👍. At the moment I just don't have the space and I need a saw that I can take to job sites but I'd LOVE a proper cabinet saw with infeed / outfeed at some point if I ever get a bigger shop! One day etc etc. 😃 Btw I think Freud and Diablo are the same company... I think!
I'm not even sure Delta sell in the UK, there are many alternatives but he's got a 25m2 shop where a big saw may kinda take over. Sometimes space, budget and usage requirements dictate compromises.
Kitty used to make a really quality table saw. They come up on eBay. Much better that the one you are using and not any more space required.
I've got a small Kity tablesaw and it's a bit pants, I'm going the other way and changing to the DW745. Different people, different experiences I guess.
Speaking from experience, top job site saw is often better than cheap cabinet saw.
How long have you got the old blade fitted in the saw 👀
So, a new blade cuts better than an old blade. Who would have thought it...And more teeth means better finish- and slower cut.
Just watched this video Andy I have sheppah type and the standard blade is doing the same I will swap out with a better blade especially after watching this as my cuts are shite ps cant wait for your new cave lol
boa noite amigo , me tira uma duvida , posso posso colocar um disco freud tamanho 7 1/4 nela ? tenho um anel que veio junto. obrigado sucesso .