Thanks Joaquin! I can’t wait to get back on it. We’re trying to get moved into a place with a bit more room, but I’ll have some more Roadster updates coming soon!
I’m sorry @@timhayes2501. I know I’m letting all you roadster fans down, and I want to get back to it. I think I’m close. I’m going to upload a UA-cam short (or maybe even a long format video) this afternoon, and I’m going to tag YOU in it, to give an update on what’s been going on…
Hint; next time upon assembly use a longer piece of ALL-THREAD to assemble the pack.. ALL-THREAD will also act like addition clamp Still use your C-clamps like you are here in vid. after it's all assembled, remove the ALL-THREAD and replace with spring bolt. Then remove C-clamps.By the way I'm running 4 standard leaves with spring pack spacers on a coupe with np problems.
You know what Mike, in the past I’ve used all-thread, and once I got a piece that must have been made out of some particularly soft Chinesium; it gummed up the threads so bad that I had to cut the nut off with the spring clamped in c-clamps, and I said I’m never doing THAT again! Haha. But yes, you are absolutely correct, with a quality piece of all-thread, it’s a much easier process. I just figured I’d show it this way in the video, to put the emphasis on the importance of the clamps. I’d hate for somebody watching me, to think “hey, I’ll go down to the Ace and get a chunk of all-thread, and skip the clamps entirely”, and then POP! Leaf spring to the face! 😬🤔😂👍🏼😎
T I think you should be checking not just the center with your weight but also each side. When you turn the car when driving each side of the spring moves. So in essence removing longer springs and filling the pack with 12 inch spacer springs will affect the roll in the turn. My opinion. Enjoy
Fair point. That is the inherent weakness of the buggy spring design, in the first place. I need to figure out shocks before I can really perform that test in a meaningful manner, though.
Thanks Boxcar’s Garage! The book really is awesome. There are certainly things I would have done a tiny bit differently if I had got it before I started the project.
So they say, Mr. The King. However, in this case, I was using what I had available, and the other spring I had was an A spring that somebody had re-arched like a T spring, and that sat even higher.
Looks good. Smooth springs will definitely ride better. Curious to see how low you actually are. I like my ride low also. I’ll have to watch some of your videos to see where you’re going. She’s going to be a sweet little roadster Casey. Can’t do any better than the flattie for a mill. 🍻👍👍👍
Thanks Ron! I think it’s going to be “just right”. The lip of the subrail is actually still catching on the rear-most lip of the rear crossmember, so it should nestle down over it another 1/2” or so once I do some trimming. And the way it’s sitting is without any of the “stuff” (motor, trans, brakes, steering, etc). Anyway…I’ve always wanted to get a Flathead powered roadster together. This thing has been “in the works” for a really long time. And in my mind even longer. 😊👍🏼 Thanks for watching!
Another informative film, thanks for taking the time to go through this. I may have missed this point but is your kick up on chassis just the depth of the frame, did the chassis come with this done or was it something you did? Thanks again.
Thanks Gordon. Yeah, this chassis had a frame width step in it when I got it, as well as this weird 6-leaf spring. It also had an un-dropped ‘46-ish Ford axle up front, and F1 steering. I decided to go with a lower 4” drop axle up front (swapped it before I started filming videos), and then the rear needed to come down a similar amount.
Thanks Gary! That’s a good point, and I had assembled them dry. I’ve got some good graphite impregnated tractor grease that would probably work great in there. Thank you!
Thanks Gary. That’s from the previous owner/original builder, and it will get re-done correctly. Sorry I missed your comment the first time through…we just moved from Sonoma County up to Virginia City, so life has been a bit crazy lately. Hope everybody is doing fine.
Your channel showed up in my feed today. Love this project. What is the design or plan with the notch in each sub rail, about near the axle centerline?
The frame has a “step” or “zee” in it, to lower the car. The notch in the rear subrail is so that the body will sit down around the rear spring crossmember (which now lives a few inches higher then it used to). I’ll try to remember to take a shot of it in my next roadster video.
i know im late making this comment but i cant believe rounding an champhering the springs is going to make any noticeable difference i say this because the whole spring flexes varying amounts from different loads the edge is only a small portion of the spring im of the belief that polishing and greasing the spring pack may be a small improvement but in the end its still a buggy spring set up thats never gonna be comparable to a modern suspension set
Yeah, but if you’re building these cars with modern suspension, then you’re missing the point. The whole idea is to relive the past, not reinvent the wheel. But it’s a free country, so do your thang! 😊
@@crazycaseyscustoms no i wouldnt build a factory looking model a with modern suspension a custom absolutely the point i was trying to make is i think the guy that wrote the book mightve just been making money instead of quality resource for hotrod builders
TOTALLY AWSOME VIDEO CASEY!!! A TOTALLYA WSOME BUILD!!!! THANKS FOR SHARING!!!
Yeah, @@johnbehneman1546, my pleasure. I’m hoping to get back on the build this winter.
THANK YOU, VERN TARDELL!!!! I NEED TO BUY YOUR BOOK!!!!
I’ve got an Amazon associate’s link in the video description, @@johnbehneman1546. If you buy the book through that link I make 3%. 😊
Very nice, simple and very organized build. Can't wait to see the end result! Good job.
Thanks Joaquin! I can’t wait to get back on it. We’re trying to get moved into a place with a bit more room, but I’ll have some more Roadster updates coming soon!
😢@@crazycaseyscustoms
I’m sorry @@timhayes2501. I know I’m letting all you roadster fans down, and I want to get back to it. I think I’m close. I’m going to upload a UA-cam short (or maybe even a long format video) this afternoon, and I’m going to tag YOU in it, to give an update on what’s been going on…
I JUST BOUGHT THE BOOK ON AMAZON!!!!
Thanks @@johnbehneman1546! 👍🏼👍🏼🙏🏼
Yes l have that book, and yes I wanna build a roadster! 👌 I cut the ends off the rear leaves too. Thanks for a good episode.
Awesome Slowshop! You are most welcome!!
Great job Casey.
Thanks Aussie Jas! I think this is one of my better videos.
@@crazycaseyscustoms Yes I liked it.
Looking good!
Thanks friend!
can't wait to see the finished project keep up the good work
Thanks Bruce! You and me both!!
Hint; next time upon assembly use a longer piece of ALL-THREAD to assemble the pack.. ALL-THREAD will also act like addition clamp Still use your C-clamps like you are here in vid. after it's all assembled, remove the ALL-THREAD and replace with spring bolt. Then remove C-clamps.By the way I'm running 4 standard leaves with spring pack spacers on a coupe with np problems.
You know what Mike, in the past I’ve used all-thread, and once I got a piece that must have been made out of some particularly soft Chinesium; it gummed up the threads so bad that I had to cut the nut off with the spring clamped in c-clamps, and I said I’m never doing THAT again! Haha. But yes, you are absolutely correct, with a quality piece of all-thread, it’s a much easier process. I just figured I’d show it this way in the video, to put the emphasis on the importance of the clamps. I’d hate for somebody watching me, to think “hey, I’ll go down to the Ace and get a chunk of all-thread, and skip the clamps entirely”, and then POP! Leaf spring to the face! 😬🤔😂👍🏼😎
@@crazycaseyscustoms Cool, I honestly didn't think you knew. Sorry. LOL Mike
No worries,@@MikeMiller-fc2cc.
T I think you should be checking not just the center with your weight but also each side. When you turn the car when driving each side of the spring moves. So in essence removing longer springs and filling the pack with 12 inch spacer springs will affect the roll in the turn. My opinion. Enjoy
Fair point. That is the inherent weakness of the buggy spring design, in the first place. I need to figure out shocks before I can really perform that test in a meaningful manner, though.
Your doing a great job with these videos. I need to get that book! Following your build !
Thanks Boxcar’s Garage! The book really is awesome. There are certainly things I would have done a tiny bit differently if I had got it before I started the project.
T spring is perfect for lowering and ride
So they say, Mr. The King. However, in this case, I was using what I had available, and the other spring I had was an A spring that somebody had re-arched like a T spring, and that sat even higher.
You reference the Tardel book. Look in the back in the credits. My name is there. The book was written in the 90s.
I noticed it the first time I read through, Gary. 😊 Hope you’re doing good, sir. Verna sure is doing some awesome work.
Looks like your main leaf has reversed eye holes where the shackle bolts up. That would lower the car about 1inch.
I do, but the before and after pics are both shown with that reversed eye main leaf, just FYI…
SUGGESTION: OLD SCHOOL HOT RODS IN SOCIAL MEDIA!!!!
Do you mean like a feature? Like going through and talking about (and showing) the different ones that are out there, @@johnbehneman1546?
Looks good. Smooth springs will definitely ride better. Curious to see how low you actually are. I like my ride low also. I’ll have to watch some of your videos to see where you’re going. She’s going to be a sweet little roadster Casey. Can’t do any better than the flattie for a mill. 🍻👍👍👍
Thanks Ron! I think it’s going to be “just right”. The lip of the subrail is actually still catching on the rear-most lip of the rear crossmember, so it should nestle down over it another 1/2” or so once I do some trimming. And the way it’s sitting is without any of the “stuff” (motor, trans, brakes, steering, etc). Anyway…I’ve always wanted to get a Flathead powered roadster together. This thing has been “in the works” for a really long time. And in my mind even longer. 😊👍🏼 Thanks for watching!
Another informative film, thanks for taking the time to go through this. I may have missed this point but is your kick up on chassis just the depth of the frame, did the chassis come with this done or was it something you did?
Thanks again.
Thanks Gordon. Yeah, this chassis had a frame width step in it when I got it, as well as this weird 6-leaf spring. It also had an un-dropped ‘46-ish Ford axle up front, and F1 steering. I decided to go with a lower 4” drop axle up front (swapped it before I started filming videos), and then the rear needed to come down a similar amount.
@@crazycaseyscustoms
What kind of work table was that?
Believe it or not,@@xmo552, that’s just a cheap Harbor Freight Welding Table. For what it cost, it’s been pretty great!
@@crazycaseyscustoms
Don't buy the jack stands
What rear end are you using?
I believe it’s a ‘48 open drive banjo. I could be wrong…
Don't forget to grease between the leaves.
Thanks Gary! That’s a good point, and I had assembled them dry. I’ve got some good graphite impregnated tractor grease that would probably work great in there. Thank you!
Normally you route the brake lines down the wishbones.
Thanks Gary. That’s from the previous owner/original builder, and it will get re-done correctly. Sorry I missed your comment the first time through…we just moved from Sonoma County up to Virginia City, so life has been a bit crazy lately. Hope everybody is doing fine.
Your channel showed up in my feed today. Love this project. What is the design or plan with the notch in each sub rail, about near the axle centerline?
The frame has a “step” or “zee” in it, to lower the car. The notch in the rear subrail is so that the body will sit down around the rear spring crossmember (which now lives a few inches higher then it used to). I’ll try to remember to take a shot of it in my next roadster video.
i know im late making this comment but i cant believe rounding an champhering the springs is going to make any noticeable difference
i say this because the whole spring flexes varying amounts from different loads the edge is only a small portion of the spring im of the belief that polishing and greasing the spring pack may be a small improvement but in the end its still a buggy spring set up
thats never gonna be comparable to a modern suspension set
Yeah, but if you’re building these cars with modern suspension, then you’re missing the point. The whole idea is to relive the past, not reinvent the wheel. But it’s a free country, so do your thang! 😊
@@crazycaseyscustoms no i wouldnt build a factory looking model a with modern suspension a custom absolutely the point i was trying to make is i think the guy that wrote the book mightve just been making money instead of quality resource for hotrod builders
What size tires are on the back thanks
7.00-16’s. 👍🏼👍🏼