2011 F150 Dash Removal and Heater Blend Door Repair
Вставка
- Опубліковано 28 січ 2014
- How to repair blend door motor on F150 with dual zone electronic climate control.
If one side of your truck is not blowing the correct temperate of air (Stuck of hot or cold regardless of the setting on the climate control.
Total project about 5 Hours - Part number listed in video. Driver or Pass. side malfunction require the same part.
This video was immensely helpful. Like others, I had a hard time with that one bolt in the duct up against the firewall. What worked for me was Tekton SHD08108. It's a thin shallow 8mm socket on one end, a 1/4" drive on the other, and a universal joint in the middle. By deflecting the universal joint 90 degrees, I was able to work the drive end with my fingertips and back the bolt out. Had a bottle jack in the passenger footwell pushing up against the box to create space. Apart from that, the video made everything a piece of cake.
One of the best how to video's I have watched on vehicle repairs
I went ahead and removed everything from the dash that could be removed. It made a huge difference in the weight of the dash. I was able to pull the dash and put it back in place without any help. Took longer, and really the only reason I removed so much stuff was because I didn't know any better, but it made it easier to do without another set of hands. Thanks for the video. It has lots of useful information. Especially those hidden bolt locations.
buggaz bean what all did you remove from the dash. I am guessing steering wheel, radio, and passenger air bag. Any thing else. I have a 2011 Platinum and already preparing for the day I hear the dreaded popping noise. There is no way I would let a shop do it. They always tear something up and the weight of the dash has had me concerned.... thanks
I already took out the stereo etc because I thought I had a bad actuator but turns out I have a broken door just above the blower,...do you know if I have to take the dash out to change this? the door comes as an assembly with a bit of duct work,....thanks for the idea of less wieght now I think I can handle it !
More folks should do slideshows. Those of us with a modicum of ability can work from them and save the time. Kudos!
Thank you so much for this video. I worked on my 2010 F-150 this past weekend to replace both driver and passenger temperature control actuator. Took my 8 hours total. I hate that the driver's actuator is buried so hard to get to. But thanks to your video, I was able to fix it Ford house quoted me at least $1,200 for them to fix it. I fixed it for only $91 for both actuators. Again, thank you!!!
+Artemio Mundo Hi Artemio, do you care to tell me how many miles you had on your truck when this part failed…I’m having the same problem on a 2012 ecboost platinum with 43,000….and I have just got finished with a problem where my truck would jump from 1st gear to 5 gear at a red light or stop sign or just merging into traffic…that went on for months my dealership saying they could not even try to fix it unless it thru a code even though they knew exactly what was wrong with it….but they would not tell me at all…not even if I agreed to pay out of my own pocket for the repair…it finally thru a code and was fixed within 20 minutes…I find it funny how Ford admitted to knowing how to fix it, but would not tell me unless it thru a code seems to me like their trying to play GOD with people’s lives….
My truck had a little over 30,000 when the temperature control motors stopped working. It now has a little over 33,000 miles and no issue.
Where is the driver actuator exactly located? I can’t tell by the pics & I don’t wanna remove the whole dash & seats unless it’s necessary
Excellent break down my dude..... Thumbs up.
I appreciate the video! The details helped me out to save family some money.
Xterra not-so Firma great to hear! thank you
Holy cow!! Just spent an entire weekend completing this project, but it did the trick. This summer I lost cold AC during the summer on the drivers side and all signs pointed to this problem. This is not a project for fun or for beginners. All in all it took me and a friend 10 hours. You WILL need a second set of hands to remove and install the dash itself. It is extremely heavy. The instructions in this video work great until you are told (after removing the dash) to remove the part that sits underneath the air box. It will seem impossible. The video says to remove the part (an air ducting router I believe) to make room to access the actuator that needs to be repaired. The part/air router below the air box has 4 bolts that need to be removed. Three of them are easily accessible but the fourth bolt is on the back side of the part and up against the fire wall. It seems impossible to get to and it almost is. Be patient, you can get it. The video says to lift up the air box. I did but couldn't get enough lift by hand. I put a floor jack in the passengers side, underneath the air box and lifted. It will lift quite a bit but don't go too far. At this point the smaller the hands the better. Reach behind the part and you will find the bolt that bolts the part up to the air box. You can't see it, you will only feel it. It will take some time to get off but it will come out. The rest of the videos instructions are spot on. Now my drivers side blows hot and cold. Thanks for the help.
This video saved me much $$$. Random Repair provided great information. There are a couple of things I would like to add for those who may have additional questions. The seats and console dont take much time to remove. The shift linkage will pop right off from in front/ below the lever. I pushed and pried mine with a flathead and it popped off with a little effort and went right back on. The parking brake wire was removed from its harness by routing the bulbed end on the floor side through the "L" shaped cut, which allows it to hang freely. If you are obsessive like me, make sure you take good account of which screw came from where. Most screws are the same but some are different and I found myself questioning where they go. Make sure you get all four 15mm screws that hold the side of the dash next to the driver. The very top one is hidden back under the dash top and is tricky to get in and out, you can plainly see the other three.The screws in the top of the dash are trouble due to the limited amount of space and try not to drop them when taking them out. If you do, you can find them again when you pull the dash away. Ratchet/socket extensions are a must. Also, when returning the top dash screws I used one wrap of electrical tape to hold them in my socket until I could get them started into the threaded hole. I have the nav package with the screen and I did not have to take it out. I replaced the passenger side and I simply pulled the dash out far enough on the side where I was going to replace the actuator. The dash is not light and easily maneuverable so if you have help use them. I'm no pro but I am handy with tools and the project took me about five and a half hours beginning to finish. I was methodical and looked back at the video for clues a lot. I never would have attempted this without the video so "Thanks again."
I should also say I used an aftermarket part from my local auto parts store. It was a Dorman for $24.99 with a lifetime warranty. Works great.
Great to know. I just noticed this happened in my truck and with winter approaching I'm anxious to get it fixed. Are there any bolts or tough areas that aren't already captured in this slideshow and what you've described above? Are any non-typical tools required? I saw a similar video and the guy had some tools I'd never seen before.
Also, what's the part #? It's not easy to read in the video and I don't see it listed anywhere here.
Thanks,
Nick
I can tell you that I used a metric socket set w/ extensions. 7, 8, 13 and 15 mm were mostly used. A flexible or jointed extension will be a big help with the top dash screws. No other special tools were needed on my 2011 lariat.
James Gray Agreed, basic tool set should do the trick.
James Gray bought two actuators at Ford on wholesale for $12 each. Local mechanic shop run by a former Ford mechanic said he would replace both for $400 even. Think it's worth it or attempt to do it myself? BTW my driver side actuator makes sounds like it's eventually going to crap out on me too so I figured I'd do both.
Hi, I also have a dual temperature system. had a problem during the summer where the temperature was TOO cold, on both sides. But now it's winter, and I see that I have no heat. So one or more motors is stuck. So, if I don't have any heat at all, is it possible its the upper or lower motors that are bad (rather than driver and/or passenger). and I just need to access one of those? Is it possible that both motors are bad at the same time?
The seats do get warm.... I had the understanding that they are heated with warm air? thanks for any thoughts.
Started this project after work today. Got the seats and center console out in a few hours. Not too sure what to do with the parking brake? Going good otherwise. Thanks for the video
Great video! My truck the temperatures work fine but when I start my truck I hear a knocking, clapping noise. Any idea if thy would be related to the blend door? The noise comes from the passenger side footwell
Its one of the door motors. It could be normal as mine makes some noise too.
I have 2012 ford flex my pass side alway blow cold air . i was replace under glove box blender motor but still have cold air. I have to remove dash my last chance . Thank you
Best of luck
In the case of my 2010 F150, there was no clicking sound as experienced by some owners. But, the motor appears to have been bad, as replacing the driver side motor has fixed the blend door issue (DS blowing hot irrespective of temp setting). Found it impossible to remove the duct work (which was the last step to gaining unobstructed access to the driver side motor), as I did not have a tool small enough to access the last 7mm bolt located behind the duct work "stack" next to the firewall. Had a small hydraulic jack and put it against the front driver side corner of part of the duct work stack such that I could lift it and get enough clearance to remove one small piece of duct work adjacent to the DS motor. (Lifting temporarily distorted the plastic - but returned to original shape upon lowering the duct work.) This provided just enough room to remove and install the new motor using both bolts. One shortcut that worked well was just sliding the front seats to the back seat area after unbolting from the floor - this eliminated having to undo the seat belt torx bolt. The console also slid to the back seat area. A couple of cautions - I think I had a few more connectors on the passenger side than shown in the video (Discovered I had an unplugged connector after reassembly). The radio had one additional slot for a connector which I didn't have on my vehicle - guessing it was for a nav system. (Spent some time looking for a connector that did not exist.) Once you get access the DS motor, you also have full access to the passenger side motor. I would recommend you replace both as the motors are relatively cheap.
Excellent Video! It was very helpful. I would like to add that I WAS able to remove the left side temp door WITHOUT having to remove the dash. however I did have to remove both seats and the center console though in order to remove the floor vent which routes under the seats. once that's out of the way, then the vent crossover piece needs to be removed. 3 0f the 4 bolts are easily accesable. there is one on the backside though that was a real bear to get at but I used a long 90 degree 1/4 in ratchet with a stubby 1/4 in socket and it was cake from there. ac is blowing ice cubes again!! I will definitely post a video on the next one! im sure thers plenty more to come. customer is extremely happy especially with the price. 1/3 of ford dealership
+Trusted Motorworks
I’m gonna try your method TODAY!
Did you post the video?
Help me out on this ratchet setup that you were able to access the last air box bolt. I’m at this point and am at a loss. Thanks for any help
Much easier then following the manual like I did. My new motor died a month later. I get to do it all over again.
Thank You!! Sorry to hear about you having to do the motor again, now you will be able to do it in no time.
If you had a motor fail twice it could be because there’s an obstruction in the vent. I have glass from a shattered windshield in mine causing this issue. It went down the defrost vents
@RandomRepair I followed your instructions and unscrewed and unhooked everything, and I double checked everything, I have a spinal cord injury so everything feels like 5000 pounds to me and I also do not want to break anything. Im told there are still 12 clips holding the dashboard still after you take everything off. and that is what the slotted screwdriver is for. can tell me how to pop it out thanks,.
I don't remember any clips, but it's been years...
@@randomrepair1680 Thx I double checked and the only 2 things I missed in your pics were the tiny bolt behind the front dash on the drivers side. and unhooking the parking brake cable. after that it should pull off like butter Ill let you know thanks for your reply
Great video Random Repair! I am slowly building up the confidence to potentially taking on the dash removal of my 2011 F-150. I wish I was just changing the mode door actuator (by gas pedal) but instead, it looks like I need to replace the entire air plenum. The actuator turns but the plastic cam it connects to (on the plenum) broke a lever that diverts air flow to the defroster and feet. Right now I only have airflow to the face and it's winter time up here in Canada.
My question I suppose is whether I must remove the dash in order to get at this plenum. Not sure what other options I have... just seen a few posts where people mention the dash removal might not be necessary.
Looking forward to your response. Cheers!
Hi Andrew,
I have the same situation.
Just wondering if you had to take the dash out or was there an easier way?
@@chrisclark7992 I also had the same situation. You need to remove the dash.
just did the upper module on my F150 fx4 2011 with a center console. Had to remove shift cover, just lifts up, shift assembly 4 screws, center console 4 screws two toward the rear of the console and 2 toward the front driver and pass side behind the trim skirt near the floor. Center console screws near the front of shift assembly. Slide the console back and remove the shift arm and retainer clip from the front of the shift arm. The shift arm pops off of the pin on the bottom side of shifter. Remove the side trim screws near the bottom of the trim that houses your 4 wheel drive selector and vent. The other side houses the 12v power port and vent. Then removed the USB assembly port as there is one screw behind it that help hold the center trim piece that houses all of the heat, radio, nav and cigarette lighter. 2 screws at the top under the rubber storage pocket area. Pull out on the side trim and remove the center assembly. Disconnect all the plugs from the switch panel. Remove the nav screen 4 srews. Open the glove box, squeeze the sides in and open the door all the way. Reach through the glove box pull the wiring harnes down from 2 locking clips to make room for your hand. From the top you can you can open the red locking clip. Pull the plug and remove the 2 screws that hold the blend door module and remove throuh the opening where the nav screen sits. Instal the module. I tied string to the screws in an attempt to not lose them in the dash if dropped. Leave the string hang out the front so you can pull the screw out if you drop it in the tight space. Reassemble everything in reverse. Check all connections as you reassemble. This is the task only if the passenger side AC/heat is not working. Driver side is a different process!!! Disconnect the battery. Mine died do to the duration that interior lights were on during the job. Pull fuse 46 for a few min. located in the passenger side footwell. Reinsert fuse, turn key on and give it about 30 sec for the computer to go through recalibration. If the shifter does not work.... check to make sure the plug is all the way in. Plug in while the vehicle is off. Mine was not all the way in. Plugged it in while the truck was running and it was making a loud bang when moving the shifter through the gears. I turned the truck off and restarted and all was fine. Passenger side now functions properly. Hope this helps everyone. Part was 27.00. The labor at the dealer is outrages for this job! Took me about 3 hrs. total. Its not a hard job. Just seems challenging when you watch the different videos. Its just not easy for those with big hands!
Ron Coleman wow thanks for all the info!
Random Repair, no problem glad to help
Thanks for the video but i need to remove the display screen because it's not showing anything, but i still don't know for sure if the screen is at fault or something else.
thanks for the video... I have a 2010 platinum and I replaced the part you posted but I still have the same issue passenger side correct temp driver side and backseat and defroster still not correct temp. any ideas what to do next?
Carlos Hernandez sounds like drivers side blend door but you changed it. it could possibly be control module or wiring. It's a pretty annoying problem.
Man! Well thanks for replying I'm gonna continue to trouble shoot
Thanks for the video. Any recommendations??? I have replaced this 3
times on my 2011 f150 and have finally found that the hole that the
actuator goes into has been gnarled so it will not grab to turn. It
then skips and starts clicking, eventually breaking the actuator. Any
advise on what I can do? I was thinking about using a small file and
trying to make the "teeth" inside the hole deeper so they are not
rounded off. Thanks for any help.
If you can get in there it's definitely worth a try. Hopefully it does the trick!
@@randomrepair1680 Thanks for the reply. Guess I will give it a shot. Not sure what else to do.
@@aaronbarker6272 would possibly have to replace the blend door or get a used box
Did you remove the radio unit? Or just disconnect those plugs as the dash was pulled out? Are there any bolts behind the radio that are holding the dash in place?
Alan Smith nope. radios stays in
Thanks for the video! I've been looking for one for the newer model style. Do you think there is any way to access the drivers side motor without removing the entire dash? Cheers.
Driver side motor not a chance :( Its barely accessible without removing the whole heater box. passenger side motor maybe if the radio is pulled or possible thru the glove box.
***** 2 person job for sure!!
What do you think, I member when I replaced the new part I move the part for different side a little bit but right now I changed the part two time why I think the first part maybe no working and I have only hot air for the passengers side
Jonova1985 did you change the top one?
could be electronic or mechanical problem. I would remove the motor and see if it moves as you change the settings
where is the hidden bolt you can’t see on the driver side. i can’t find it anywhere ad no diagrams online!
I got the same problem with my truck but my back seats also blow cold air. Do you know once I changed out the part, would it solve that also?
Victor Rivera I honestly don't know... I didn't check to see what the back seats were doing. My guess would be yes since there is only 2 blend doors
Thank you! Used this to replace lower actuator. Only issue was getting access in a 2010 F150 to the lower actuator. If anyone has pics showing the exact screws/clips to remove to take out the lower air assembly that would be great!
John Nuckols good call. thanks for watching my friend!
Would you know if this will help my problem
My ac is stuck on cold both sides driver and passenger even when I move my temperature to 70°F it feels like I have it on low
Sorry, hard to tell without seeing it
How did you get the screw in the back of the lower unit? I can't event fit my hand back there.
Larry Nail very slowly and with a wrench.
Did you loosen the box from the firewall?
can not find bolts on top of dash.
I changed the lower actuator and I have a center console. I went thru the passenger foot well. I removed the metal bracket that's in the way. I cut the screw post off that's in the way. I took the screw out of the post on the driver side to allow flexibility. Then I cut the top lip off the floor heat duct for the passenger. Then I just took out the actuator and slid the new one in and hooked on the wire. Took me 45min. I just glued the top of the duct back on and shoved a 3/4 in chunk of styrofoam under the duct to keep it pressed upward. This is probably the easiest way to do it and you don't have to pay the shit out of it. I did use a 3/4 in open end Wrench and screwdriver to slip around the actuator spline with the open jaw and then slipped in the screwdriver to pry against to break off the back tab. I used a 8mm open end Wrench and a drywall saw with hacksaw blade to cut the plastic. All done and you can't even tell. Much better than pulling dash and risking breaking other stuff.
I need some pics, I like this idea better
I just replaced it again. Dorman part failed. Took me 30 min to swap it out. Just cut the plastic peg off that is about 3 inches long its right in the way. I take off the metal bracket that has 4 bolts supporting the dash. I shaved off the top of the duct that blows on the passenger feet. Remove the screw on the actuator. Break the back one off. Take wire harness off and just pry and slide it out. If the spline on the new one does not align you will need to start the vehicle and move the heat knob till it turns and aligns.
Thanks Random Repair - I needed both actuators per diagnostics by local repair. They could not diagnose the control module until they pulled the dash. They quoted me 7.5 hours labor and $1000 in parts = $2400 if they replaced the control module too, $1400 without (same labor). I found all parts including the control module at Tascaparts.com for $360 plus shipping. My son and I did the work in about 8.5 hours. All together including the diags it cost me right at $500. With the $1900 I saved I am putting a 2 post lift in my shop!
Russ Baxter great idea. Glad it worked out for you. Thanks for watching
Having issues removing the unit under the blender actuator? In the video it says remove box bolts and lift up. Not sure what exactly that means
Just gives you more room to undo the actuator
I’m having issues with the box bolts as well and don’t understand what that means or where they’re at. Did you figure it out?
Anyone have any luck with this? Seem to be stuck in the same location, there must be another bolt im missing that is connecting the lower duct work underneath the actuator.
@@seantanjaomeara4604 I don't think I missed anything but I'm just a random repair joe
You do not have too take out the dash.With some handy dandy mechanic work,it is possible to get too these small motors without taking the dash out. I did it on my 2014 lariat .Pull the concel back ,take the air bag out of the passenger side to get access to the motors. You have to use the smallest wrenches you can find because there is not much space to work. My truck had the problem of no control over the passenger side which was the lower door motor .
Yeah, passenger side is the easy peasy one.
Good job with the repair
@@randomrepair1680 yeah that's an easy one. Anything else looks like will require to remove the whole thing
Nice! Does one need to drain the glycol and the refrigerant?
Nope. If you take your time there is room to not mess around with that :)
Random Repair - at 2:29 in the video there is some wires laying in the passenger foot-well, could you please elaborate how you got those loose? That's the only thing stopping me from getting my dash removed. Excellent video by the way, was a total lifesaver for me.
Thanks for your help,
zt
ztdroider1 I see what you are talking about but it's been a few years and I just can't remember removing those. I'm pretty sure they were simple unplug from the console area but sadly can't be sure.
Ok so how many bolts hold the bottom duct work in? I have it at the stage where it looks like it should come out but it won't budge.
Im sure you figured it out by now since its been a few days. I really don't remember, but if you do, please post a follow up :)
James Miller I'm having the same problem, the video isn't helpful at this point it only says remove the unit. I can't get to the lower blend door actuator because I can't get the duct work out that's below the actuator.
Ya i couldn't get it out so i put everything back together because I needed my truck. Just going to do it the long way and remove the a/c unit another day
So did anybody figure this out? Ill be removing my dash tomorrow and I know I'm going to need that bottom duct work out. It would be better to know beforehand because Ive had about enough frustration I can take in a weekend already. Tried to take out actuator without removing the dash and I got so close, just didnt have enough room to slide the actuator in between the ducting.
Greg Buker I dont remember how many hold the duct on. I want to say 6 ish. They are quite hard to deal with. Undo the bolts to the HVAC box from under the hood and prop the heater box up a bit it would be a lot easier to get the duct out.
I'm trying to remove just the dash cover with little success because of the defrost duct screws. How to you get that part disconnected to slide back the dash?
buggaz bean I just used a long extension.
Random Repair I was trying to remove only the very top cover of the dash to get to the heater core. Figured out that I can't do that.
buggaz bean Oh yes. sorry I misunderstood. hopefully the repair went well
Random Repair getting ready to pull the whole dash off. We're there any wiring harnesses to disconnect besides the ones on the passenger side that you outlined in the video? I've got all the bolts out, the dash is loose, but feels like something is catching.
buggaz bean steering shafts and a few connections depending on model. if you have colum shift you will have more there
im lost, where the hell is the driver side at
Great video. Thank you very much for posting this. I recently discovered this problem in my 2010 Lariat. I'm definitely not interested in dropping $1,000+ on replacing a $40 part. A few questions if you don't mind:
- Do you know if there's any difference between the 2010 and the 2011 in terms of bolt locations, etc.?
- What's the part #? It's hard to read in the video.
Thanks again,
Nick
Any idea what this procedure would cost at the dealership?
I was quoted $1200.00 Ontario Canada
Thank you
So the actuator was the one on the driver side?
Yup
Great vid. Short and to the point. I’m the middle of this right now and it’s not that bad as it looks. However, make sure the steering wheel remains locked or you take a chance of ruining the clock spring. Too late for me but if anyone tries this, it might help.
Unfortunately there’s no suggestion how to replace the actuator
I replaced that part but right now only I have hot air for the passengers side
Jonova1985 please explain further
I have a broken blend door so I have to do this
Is there any way to get in touch with you? I'd like to get a few more pictures before I do all this work on my truck. I called the shop near me for an estimate-- $900, the dealer is $1500+. My mechanical skills are above average, but I have never done such a project before. Any specific tools I'll need for this? Any help would be much appreciated.
You can email me any time. Sorry for the late reply.
Random Repair I have a hard time locating your e-mail address... is it hidden to public? I'm doing the job next weekend. Was just wondering if there any specialized tools I'm going to need. If you happen to have more pictures? I will try to take as many pictures as I can, maybe post another video later on. (if the project is successful)
Steffan Na Thanks, Please let me know.
you can email me s_vares@hotmail.com
The reason why replaced the motor blend door heater is because only still regular air no hot for the passengers side but right now only I have hot air for the passengers side for the driver side everything working good
Jonova1985 which one did you replace? top one is for passenger side
This looks easier than the 2003 herritage.
But hope I never have to do it. Thanks
You can really change out the part by just taking out the area around the radio and glove box just a couple of screws and less time around 45 minutes
Ok, thanks!
My truck was doing a fast clicking noise , I replaced the actuator and now the AC is stuck on heater only . Help !!!
Roberto Cuellar which side did you replace?? Defective actuator?
Random Repair I replaced the actuator behind the stereo the clicking noise was still there but as soon as I moved the knob to the hottest setting , it stayed on hot air only
Random Repair did I buy a wrong actuator? Is there another one that needs to be replaced?
Roberto Cuellar there is a top and a bottom. Right and left respectively
Random Repair my truck is not dual control, it’s the XL with the knob that goes from 1-4 for speed setting and the knob that goes from cold to hot
so you had luck removing the lower heater duct by removing mounting bolts of the evaporator/ heater core housing.
i replaced the part but still not working can anyone help don't know how many of this door actuator this truck has its a f150 lariat
Gabriel De Hoyos did you try and move the blend door manually? it may be stuck or broken.
omg it has to turn manually with no struggle i tried to turn the new and did not turn at all i thought that thats the way it should be then i got the old one and did not turn either
Gabriel De Hoyos I mean the fitting for the door its self... is it the driver side or pass. side?
How did you remove the steering colum?
A bolt under there splits it. Very easy
@@randomrepair1680 okay I'll check it out. I have a random noise under my dash when I turn left and right fast on the passenger side. Is there any spot on top of the ac that a bolt could fall into?
@@Lshiftstraley uh. Well I hope not. But I'm sure it's possible
Do you know if this is the same for 2012
Yup. Same
I own a beautiful 2010 Harley Davidson edition F150 I have this problem but mine is blowing hot air on the driver side. Also my moonroof recently got jammed and stuck because something broke on that too. The moonroof repair is $2800 and they want about the same for the AC problem. I just got it out the shop about two months ago and that was a $1800 visit. Needless to say this is my first and last F150. After these repairs I will be selling this truck and will be going back to Toyota products, I never had these kind of problems with their vehicles. I have spent over $14K in repairs for this F150 since I bought it new and it only has 90300 miles on it. Ford can kiss my ass I am done with them. I use to have a 2008 Mustang GT and that was a money pit as well. I have owned Chevy's, Ford's, Honda's and Toyota and the only vehicles that didn't cost me a fortune to keep running was the Toyota's. Which explains why they are the number one car manufacturer in the world today. My wife's 2000 Avalon is running like new and I have only recently had to take it to the stealership for some badly need suspension work. Shocks, struts and new tie rods typical stuff of a car that old.
Fords are garbage as are Chrysler, and GM. I tired to buy American but I hate the poor quality of these vehicles. I had my eye on that new Lighting and consider it for future replacement for this truck but not any more. If you gave me a new Ford free and cleat I would sell it ASAP!
I replaced the top for the passengers side
All you have to to do is remove radio control panel and radio 7 screws 30 minutes I have no idea why you would take out seats , center console and dash.. What does he do to change oil? take the hood , bumper and wheels off??
Because this repair is for the lower blend door actuator which controls the driver's side temperature on a dual climate control system. You're referring to the passenger blend door actuator which is on top of the air box behind the radio on a dual climate zone system. Trucks with a single climate control system has only the upper blender door actuator that you're talking about.
Right. But the comments say, "If one side of your truck is not blowing the correct temperate of air". It should say "if your driver's side is not blowing the correct temp." If your driver's side is fine and passenger's side is whacked...then the easy actuator replacement up top is to blame.
Tom Moore lol.
..because the dash is heavy as fuk.
I hate to be a total butt about this, but you do not have to tear the whole dash apart, pull the seats, or anything like this! Pull the radio panels, unplug that stuff, pull the cd player out. Drop your glove compartment door down. You can reach the front bolt of the actuator from just behind the cd player. You reach up through the glove compartment, and use both hands to take the second bolt out. One hand from the front reaching in, the other hand coming up through the glove compartment. This is crazy to remove all of this to replace the upper actuator.
I hate to be a butt after you typed all this, but in the video we replace the lower 😂
@@randomrepair1680 No worries, I get it, but you still don't have to pull the dash off to get the lower off. Remove the center console, remove the gas pedal (3 bolts), a few bolts for the duct, pry down on the ducting, remove the bolts to the actuator, replace, and good to go. I've done those as well, and you don't need to tear the whole dash out. Not trying to argue, just time is money, doing the job sucks in general, but tearing the dash totally off ugh..
@@bfm2472 I haven't heard of anyone doing without removing the dash.
It's really super simple to remove.
Thanks for the comment!
there is another way in 30 minutes I usually do it ,
Edgar Salinas please share
..ssshuure
My grandmother was going to the stealership for a heater core repair. They said it would take 12 hours and cost 1500. 12 hours my fucking ass. This is a 3 hour job max, and I've never attempted a complex repair in the 26 years I've been around. THIEVES. (not all mechanics tho)
I was quoted $800 at a dealer
yeahh I checked with another dealer, got the same. By the way I picked up the part for $20, had the dealer double check the part number.
It doesn’t take 8 hours to take apart the dash.
i replaced the passenger side
ok so easy enough to get to. I would remove the motor and watch it as you actuate the controls. See it it turns
so it should be able to turn it by hand or no
WARNING!!!!!! WARNING!!!!!!!! For anyone that does this repair. USE WHEEL CHOCKS............... Learn from my mistake. As I was pulling out the center console it caught on the shift cable and knocked the truck into neutral. I came within inches of folding my door backward on my other car.
Yikes!!! Definitely a good idea. Thanks for posting
My truck in the shop again for the second time cause of this, smh, Ford should have done a better job making durable parts, great truck an all but actuator problems killing my pocket. Had truck for 6 years, 2011 f150 ecoboost
Ive modded my dash and cut out a little ducting in the passenger side foot well, im currently on actuator number 3 and with the mods can replace the actuator in about 30 mins
Label the video DRIVERS SIDE
All of that is not necessary it could be done in 30 minutes