Very helpful video, thank you. Did you use flash to shoot the picture of your mother? If so, you may have encountered a phenomenon rarely experienced today, which is reciprocity failure at the short exposure end of the scale. The paper is orthochromatic, which is insensitive to red light, I have to use a deep red safelight to avoid fogging the paper while developing it, a normal yellow-red safelight for multi-contrast paper is not suitable.
cool video, I am a big fan of this positive paper! Another thing to consider is the light temperature. Since this paper is orthochromatic, the ISO you have to use decreases when shooting in warmer light (that might be why your image is a little underexposed). I shoot it at ISO 6 in daylight with a preflash and at ISO 3-4 without preflash and that works perfectly for me.
www.flickr.com/photos/125032946@N05/23690262172/in/dateposted/ This image was exposded at ISO 6 with a preflash so it has nice shadow detail www.flickr.com/photos/125032946@N05/22969493095/in/photolist-AZJE42 while this image was exposed at ISO 3 without preflash and therefore lacks some shadow detail
@@sicilientwarkan7109The paper is 1-3iso from the technical specs. It says like 1-2min in bright sunshine... here the techincal info to the Ilford Harman Direct Positive Fiber Based (FB) Glossy Paper: www.ilfordphoto.com/amfile/file/download/file/1739/product/720/ I tried today my first film at night with 15min but it would have needed 45-60min to get it the right way. You have to test the film every time you buy it, so its like 1to3 iso thats sounds not a lot but it can be at night 15, 30 oder 60min depending an what and where you shoot.
I rather use normal photographic paper and reverse develop it. That's much cheaper and after you've learned how that paper behaves and to master the chemical processing, it delivers very similar results to the Harman Direct.
Very helpful video, thank you. Did you use flash to shoot the picture of your mother? If so, you may have encountered a phenomenon rarely experienced today, which is reciprocity failure at the short exposure end of the scale. The paper is orthochromatic, which is insensitive to red light, I have to use a deep red safelight to avoid fogging the paper while developing it, a normal yellow-red safelight for multi-contrast paper is not suitable.
cool video, I am a big fan of this positive paper!
Another thing to consider is the light temperature. Since this paper is orthochromatic, the ISO you have to use decreases when shooting in warmer light (that might be why your image is a little underexposed). I shoot it at ISO 6 in daylight with a preflash and at ISO 3-4 without preflash and that works perfectly for me.
Thanks for the tip. I might try that. Do you have a sample image I can see?
www.flickr.com/photos/125032946@N05/23690262172/in/dateposted/
This image was exposded at ISO 6 with a preflash so it has nice shadow detail
www.flickr.com/photos/125032946@N05/22969493095/in/photolist-AZJE42
while this image was exposed at ISO 3 without preflash and therefore lacks some shadow detail
What is the film equivalent to shoot that paper outdoors , 200 ISO , 400 ISO ?
@@sicilientwarkan7109The paper is 1-3iso from the technical specs.
It says like 1-2min in bright sunshine...
here the techincal info to the Ilford Harman Direct Positive Fiber Based (FB) Glossy Paper:
www.ilfordphoto.com/amfile/file/download/file/1739/product/720/
I tried today my first film at night with 15min but it would have needed 45-60min to get it the right way.
You have to test the film every time you buy it, so its like 1to3 iso thats sounds not a lot but it can be at night 15, 30 oder 60min depending an what and where you shoot.
I've not tried positive paper before....... But I will now :-)
I rather use normal photographic paper and reverse develop it. That's much cheaper and after you've learned how that paper behaves and to master the chemical processing, it delivers very similar results to the Harman Direct.
I just trim the paper down so it will fit the holder.