This channel is the best channel for 3d printer reviews, logical well thought out and no bs. I do wish she would do a full bed first layer extrusion test to see how the machine handles for every printer.
Thanks for making me feel old . . . I was in college when that "nearly 50-year-old" camera was the latest thing in 35mm photography! Excellent review, as usual!
I've owned the Snapmaker J1 since it was first released, and your video taught me three valuable lessons: 1. I had never realized how useful the paint option was for controlling which filament is used. 2. I didn't realize that the Z-offset would solve the overflow on the first layer. I've made several prints that I could not break apart. 3. The tip about using PETG for support of PLA is definitely something that I want to try out. I was impressed with your organized and thorough coverage of this printer. Keep up the good work!
I was thinking that while watching one of her previous videos. A company should send her a Mini Split to review, they are fairly easy to set up and then you just set the temp you want to keep the room at. It uses the AC in the summer and in the winter it uses a heater.
I was never interested in single print head multi-color printers because of the added time to print and also the wasted filament but I do like the multiple print head designs because they are way more efficient. That adjustable wrench you printed turned out really nice using that quick remove support filament! We have actually removed that version of the adjustable wrench from our tool set a couple months ago and replaced it with one that has a much stronger adjustment wheel. We also didn't include a "print fully assembled" version in our last update because, although it could be done, it was very difficult to remove internal supports. However, now that high temp multi-filament printers are coming out making it possible to print quick remove filaments for overhang support or even support filaments that you can dissolve in water, I will be sure to include a "print fully assembled" version with the stronger adjustment wheel in our next 3D Printable Tool Set update (which is scheduled for mid January 2024).
YOU deserve so many more subs. At least we or/and I see just how much these different companies and brands support you 150%. Anyone with no prejudice just have to look at what is around her and especially in the back. When I first found aurora I thought maybe she bought all of them printers, but just experiencing 1 review it was quick to realize her identity and mannerism with none bias knowledge is one of a kind! but as this world is starting to become more questionable people all over are also starting to pick sides, and this channel is one real example of this world state of mind and where we are headed. Full support and endorsements from every single 3d brands she get, and looking at her subs says everything. Keep it strong, and don't take your identity and change according to world problems.
Vivedino is currently launching the Marathon, a larger sized, enclosed IDEX-Trident-like machine running on Klipper. Not endorsing them or whatever, but it may be something to keep an eye on in terms of reviews.
Having run my J1s through its paces, I can see where the challenges are more clearly now. And why Snapmaker (really, Jadelabo) went with some customized firmware to do some tasks. Maybe able to duplicate with Klipper macros. But for now, this is pretty awesome. But for me I also need a smaller and quieter printer for apartment living. So it fits for me.
I bought the J1. Delivered tomorrow. I have a Voron 2.4 but I don’t think Klipper is made for dual extruder setups in the current state. I need a idex to print parts and the j1, for 900€, beats the Prusa XL or other brands in price by far.
The best 3D printer presentations: - the explanations are clear and well formulated - the shots are excellent - your English can be understood very well by a French person - your voice is very pleasant to listen to.. 😎 ------------ Les meilleurs présentations d'imprimantes 3D : - les explications sont claires et bien formulées - les prises de vues sont excellentes - votre anglais peut être très bien compris par un français - votre voix est très agréable à écouter. 😎
Unless you need to print more than 2 colors / filaments, idex is much much better than the filament switching machines. You also get the double/ mirror print functionality. So using the dual printing, you actual printed a benchy every 13 minutes. Very cool looking machine.
Aurora, you and your team continue to demonstrate exemplary skills. This IDEX is unique but your review demonstrates significant limitations unless the dual extruder offers unique solutions. For me and at this price, no thanks but a really good try by IDEX to differentiate its offerings.
I'm picturing a room filling with Robo Alpacas sort of like when Harry Potter was in that room where everything had the Gemino Curse and kept multiplying 👀
Pricey, but capable. For specific printing where you need dissolvable or non-stick supports, or something like TPU components inside of another print, this is an amazing option. Quality isn't 100% there, but good. I wonder if running in mirror mode actually cancel out a lot of X-axis resonance or reverberation. Would be interesting to test if counterweights can improve print quality in general.
Follow up! You're right about the corners. There's no calibration procedure for the pressure advance, so I made my own test print. Turning up the K factor around a factor of 2 from factory made the edges neatly sharper. Good eye! I hadn't noticed.
@@timm7524 im not sure if there is a official name for that, although the term cross gantry in the case of an ultimaker is pretty established in the community, but that doesn't have moving steppers. Although makerbot kinematics was also a pretty known term, but not sure if i want to tie that to a brand that no longer exists
7:10 - Mirror mode is clever. With a dual print head printer where the print heads are not independent, two objects can be printed but the mass of the print heads add together to increase ringing and other artifacts. Printing a mirror imaged part cancels the X axis accelerations by subtracting them from each other.
Copy mode is also fine if the object can't be mirrored. Even if need slow down a little, you still get parts two times faster. Non independent printers don't usually have even a copy mode, since the distance between the nozzles often fixed (like an Ultimaker).
@@timm7524 - I had an early non-independent dual extruder printer that had a copy mode that slaved the extruder 2 motor and hot end 2 temperature to print head 1. Obviously, that only works for parts narrower in the X direction than the extruder separation, which was fairly narrow on those printers. I've seen multi-extruder printers where the user can quickly change the separation between extruders and add/subtract extruders to tailor the printer to printing multiple copies of different parts. I believe the new Elegoo OrangeStorm Giga printer has some or all of those abilities to better take advantage of the huge print area.
I think dual extruders are the next big thing coming to the lower end printer market. It can't be that much harder or expensive to physically make and operate.
Thanks, great review, one I have been waiting for. Due to the complexity of the IDex design, I would like another review after a month of daily use with PETG as removable supports for PLA, or vise versa.
If you hunt around, a couple others have reviewed this too. ModBot I think? I've done it and it's great when support adhesion isn't important. And where you don't print support material on the part. Otherwise breakaway material like she did with the HT wrench print sticks a bit better. It's somewhere between using same-material support and different material support in terms of difficulty to remove. I've used the PLA breakaway material too, and it's worked really well.
Thanks for the info. I make functional parts and when supports are the only option, I would like to keep the Z clearance to minimum. I have seen a ModBots review and a couple others, I just like the in-depth reviews that Aurora makes and I have concerns related to the extruders reliability.
7:20 Thank you for your review. Question: Why would you measure noise level of enclosed printer with door and the top open? That beats the purpose of how it was built.
Watching the crate print at about 22:45 it looks like the oblong carrying handle slots printed without supports. Am I missing something? I'm not super knowledgeable about 3D printing techniques so I'm really just wondering how this can be done. Thanks.
@@3dprintedhardware no, that's not how it works. A core xy machine uses 2 motors for each xy movement while a cartesian machine has motors separated for x and y movement. This machine is actually cartesian. Movement of the bed does not matter in this regard.
@@3dprintedhardware No. That has absolutely *nothing* to do with it. A CoreXY is not the same as a "cube like printer". A Voron 2.4 is a CoreXY. A Bambu Lab P1 or X1 is a CoreXY. But a cube-form says nothing about the machine being CoreXY. An Ender 5 Plus is a cube-format printer and does not move the bed over the Y axis, but it's not a CoreXY. Nor is the Tronxy X5SA-600 Veho, although it has the same cube format as the X5SA-500. CoreXY kinematics are determined by the logic behind the 2 motors and the used belt path, not by the "printer format or the yes-or-no movement of the bed over an Y axis".
Question: Do you create calibrated filament profiles before testing tolerances etc? Reviewers never seem to mention if they have done pressure advance, flow rate, temperature etc calibrations specific to the filament being used. If not doing all of that, then tolerance tests and similar tests are meaningless IMO. Just curious! Love your videos.
Not totally meaningless. It does at least show how ready the printer is to be used out of the box without calibration. However I agree that reviewers should mention whether they did this or not.
@@SkiPump Yeah it shows how ready the printer is with the manufacturer's filament in particular I suppose, but reviewers are almost always using some other sponsor's filament like Voxel or Polymaker. If they don't tune for the filament that they actually use and then proceed to judge tolerances, or worse, compare Printer A to Printer B, then I take issue with it. Now I try to ask in the comments. Loyal Moses recently directly compared 2 machines by printing models that were sliced for the manufacturer's filament rather than the filament he actually used. The results were backwards from what he expected.. because the higher end machine's model was sliced for filament that could print at 21mm/s³ while his filament, in my experience, topped out at 12mm/s³ before running into issues. I felt it was very misleading.
Nice review. I would've thought the main reason people are interested in this printer a water soluble supports. I would've liked to seen some comment about this maybe next time thanks. The world is drowning in plastic. Ways must be really found to address this. Water soluble supports are a good solution.
Hi Aurora, well done for the video again. I have a tech remark that i think it should be interesting for you as well to consider for your reviews. You mentioned that the printer is core xy but it actually is not: as far as a i see it's cartesian with 1 motor for each x axis and i don't know how many for the Y. Core xy IDEX is really difficult to implement and it's basically not present in the market. This means that the quality/speed should be considered for comparison somewhere in the middle between a core xy and a bed slinger and in this regard it would be interesting to know how the Y movement is implemented and how much does the X gantry with the 2 hotends and everything weigh, to make a sort of weighted comparison between this machine and a bed slinger. That's my take on this, congratulation for another very interesting video! Cheers
Ha! Was looking for your review before I bought one last month anyway. 😊 Totally agree, one month later. It has its quirks, but it really is a great little IDEX. The auto XY is worth its weight in gold. If you just want fast, pretty PLA prints then other printers might be better. But for two color and true dual material (supports) it's been great. Also could stand a minor hot end upgrade. Otherwise I've found it pretty reliable. It also has a free Cura plugin which is what I use for my own designs that lets you send wirelessly from Cura. (There are Prusa profiles too, but haven't dug into them.) Overall, for a hobbyist designer or engineer, I think it's a great machine. And it really is nice being able to do some pretty two color stuff without all the waiting and plastic guilt!
Another great review. I'd like to buy a 3D printer that can print a structural material such as ABS along with TPU on the same part. Unfortunately, it seems that all dual extruder printers use Bowden tubes which are incompatible with TPU, particularly with a 90 degree bend at the top of the extruder. I'm starting to suspect I'll need to build my own 3D printer to print TPU and ABS
This is a reverse bowden tube that only guides the filament from the spool to the direct drive heads. Using Capricorn's Reverse Bowden tube allows for you to use TPU90 or TPU95 on the J1.
@@jeffrey.edgett - A reverse Bowden tube is somewhat less problematic than a Bowden tube for low durometer filaments, but still adds drag that tends to elongate the filament in the direct drive extruder, resulting in under extrusion and possible slippage that can chew up the filament. I print a lot of 98A TPU, which prints much better with a direct drive extruder, and an overhead reel on a low friction bearing roller. I generally don't even use a filament sensor because the small drag it adds can be problematic. I also print a product using 85A NinjaFlex TPU and a Bowden tube of any variety is out of the question.
Just as a suggestion for multicolor (especially IDEX) printers. When you print your box, do one with a couple of stripes in it.... I am now using that box to test great idea though.
Thanks for the review! I can’t buy the Bambu for normal price in my country,so now I’m thinking to go with flash forge 5m (maybe pro?) or Anycubic kobra 2 pro or Creality ender 3 v3 ke, which one has a better print quality or a speed? And if the flash forge as I think is slightly better in terms of print quality can you mention the 2nd place in this comparison and how big is the difference in print quality between 2nd place and flash forge 5m ? Thanks for your reviews, they really helped me to make decision in previous year❤ P.s.: Will you make a review on flying bear ghost 6?
When comparing to Prusa MK4, are those prints done with (somewhat recent) input shaping firmware or some older (non-IS, alpha, beta?) firmware? It's not quite clear if the comparison is fair 🤔
I like this one A LOT. Real dual extruders, Strong one piece die cast aluminium chassis, proper linear rails, no cloud based shitware. Two things ennoys me : The filament path, and the bed cable management so terrible that they removed it on their photos. Limiting the print height to 200mm and bending 90° the filament just to fit in the same height than a Bambu is STUPID. I would integrate a heated chamber at the top for spools with a straight path for filament, because anyway they need to be dryed and pre-heated.
All my J1 has done since day one is jam, I'm guessing that's what the "J" in J1 stands for. Stopped using it all together, the odd print that did finish had just "ok" quality. Honestly, I have $400 printers that turn out better quality, consistently, without all the jamming headache. I should have bailed on this kickstarter as soon as I heard Jade was having financial issues and Snapmaker bought them out. I had a feeling the end result was going to be what I got. Should have listened to my gut.
That's rough, buddy. Having bought one more recently, I've not had all that trouble. It's true it needs the hot end fix Snapmaker is beta testing though to get to 100%.
im not sure if you sad it or not, but if you print 2 models and one of them come loose. can you cancel just that one? and let the other finish printing
bonjour de France a vous alors bonne machine même si on reste sur du marlin a priori moi qui et une x1c et avais envisager une autre pour éviter les décher suis pas encore convaincu même pour la Prusa XL ou la le prix et stratosphérique en 5 tête du coup j'attend une révolution dans la multi matériau plus écologique en tout cas merci car vraiment vous apprécie
Hello ,Hervé de France aussi....As tu acheté la J1 est est ce que tu recommande de prendre ce modèle plutôt qu'une P1S...J'ai déjà une Flashforge 5M Pro qui va plus vite que les X1C et super qualité. Je viens de renvoyer ma A1 suite au problème de fil électrique et une Idex me satisferai mieux en termes de déchets énorme des Bambu A te lire Salut Hervé
my biggest problem with 1000$ printers is that most have average surface quality for the price. We should be a point where anything in the 4 digits price range should not have average print quality.
Prices change frequently. Check out my website, auroratechchannel.com, for the full price history: auroratechchannel.com/price-details.php?brand=SnapMaker&model=J1S
I'll be honest, that print quality is rough and that is being generous. When you consider this is a $1000 machine, that and the amount of manual calibration required is honestly pretty unacceptable for this price point. Filament is cheap and I'll happily take more waste over lower print quality, excessively expensive accessories and manual calibration if that is the choice presented. Don't get me wrong, I'm looking forward to someone putting out a printer that is competitive in price to the bambu printers and does multi color printing with less waste and at the same or higher quality. As of right now I can just add a little cost into a bid to cover filament waste and end quality is just flatly too important for those of us selling prints. As for print time, it is just cheaper for me to buy another printer if I have more volume than my current printers can produce in the space of time I have available. Criticism aside, if this is strictly a hobby and wasting as little filament as possible is more important than efficiency, then I can certainly see the appeal of a machine like this. I'm still not entirely sold on the amount of calibration you need to do for the cost, but to each their own. Don't get me wrong, I love the idea SnapMaker has here, I just feel like the execution falls a bit short for what they are charging.
As long as snapmaker uses luban, its trash wasted my money on the snapmaker 3 in 1. Save yourself the money and aggravation and stay away from Snapmaker.
@@scipolah8810 Luban is the slicer and you can use a different slicer, but then you loose all network features which are not really great anyway. Pretty sure the oprating system of the printer is locked and can not be changed, but I only have the Snapmaker artisan as refrence.
Totally agree, We have the Snapmaker artisan in the office, and the Hardware looks great, but the Software is absolutely horrible to use. Absolutely innaceptable for such an expensive machine.
the snapmaker j1s can't even copy bambu, because it came to market way before bambu apeared... even didn't snapmaker develope the j1(s) on it's own...😎
No, they didn't. I was a former employee of theirs, Jade Labo, who tried her hand at starting her own company. The J1 was launched as a kickstarter with the Jade Labo name, then she ran into production quality issues, then financial issues. From what I remember, she went back to her old employer (Snapmaker) and asked for help. They bought her out, took over the project and rebranded it as the Snapmaker J1. Jade went back to work for Snapmaker and is still the face of this printer. But all its issues stemmed from when the company almost died during the kickstarter. Then it was rushed to market, which is why it has so many non-tested issues, like constantly jamming and under cooling.
Interesting machine, but a bit too flawed I think. Not sure you can afford to market a $1K printer that falls short of the speeds and print quality of most of the new machines out there.
Proprietary firmware based on Marlin? This is so wrong as Marlin's license is GPLv3 and the GPL doesn't permit turning it into proprietary. Shame on you, Snapmaker
Yes. To be totally fair, they've fully released their Marlin source, but not the proprietary Android part. There was some discussion about their input shaping math vs Klipper back right around when Prusa hadn't yet released theirs.
I would say the high temp nozzles and the ability to print a different material for supports like a nonstick easy to remove filament or filament that dissolves in water and/or the ability to print with 2 different filaments without tripling the print time or wasting filament makes that price justifiable.
This channel is the best channel for 3d printer reviews, logical well thought out and no bs.
I do wish she would do a full bed first layer extrusion test to see how the machine handles for every printer.
Thanks for making me feel old . . . I was in college when that "nearly 50-year-old" camera was the latest thing in 35mm photography!
Excellent review, as usual!
Same! I bought one in 1980 - great camera, I remember it well 🙂
I've owned the Snapmaker J1 since it was first released, and your video taught me three valuable lessons:
1. I had never realized how useful the paint option was for controlling which filament is used.
2. I didn't realize that the Z-offset would solve the overflow on the first layer. I've made several prints that I could not break apart.
3. The tip about using PETG for support of PLA is definitely something that I want to try out.
I was impressed with your organized and thorough coverage of this printer. Keep up the good work!
You and your brother are big stars. Mom and Dad need to spring for a garage heater. :)
I was thinking that while watching one of her previous videos. A company should send her a Mini Split to review, they are fairly easy to set up and then you just set the temp you want to keep the room at. It uses the AC in the summer and in the winter it uses a heater.
I've been passively looking at IDEX or multi-nozzle printers and this review was really helpful.
You're the bomb, Aurora! I got a Bambu Labs A1 on your advice and it's been amazing! Great prints print after print, and fast, too! Thanks!
I was never interested in single print head multi-color printers because of the added time to print and also the wasted filament but I do like the multiple print head designs because they are way more efficient.
That adjustable wrench you printed turned out really nice using that quick remove support filament! We have actually removed that version of the adjustable wrench from our tool set a couple months ago and replaced it with one that has a much stronger adjustment wheel. We also didn't include a "print fully assembled" version in our last update because, although it could be done, it was very difficult to remove internal supports.
However, now that high temp multi-filament printers are coming out making it possible to print quick remove filaments for overhang support or even support filaments that you can dissolve in water, I will be sure to include a "print fully assembled" version with the stronger adjustment wheel in our next 3D Printable Tool Set update (which is scheduled for mid January 2024).
YOU deserve so many more subs. At least we or/and I see just how much these different companies and brands support you 150%. Anyone with no prejudice just have to look at what is around her and especially in the back. When I first found aurora I thought maybe she bought all of them printers, but just experiencing 1 review it was quick to realize her identity and mannerism with none bias knowledge is one of a kind! but as this world is starting to become more questionable people all over are also starting to pick sides, and this channel is one real example of this world state of mind and where we are headed. Full support and endorsements from every single 3d brands she get, and looking at her subs says everything. Keep it strong, and don't take your identity and change according to world problems.
You are a very good reviewer. Talking about the items that are important.
I can comment on the quality of the printer but the presentation is pretty top notch... Well resented..
Kudo's to the presentation!
very thorough review. Interesting approach... much less wasted filament
Another great review, Great job you two
Thanks for sharing your experiences with all of us 🙂
Great review as always - sounds like I should wait for a Klipper-based IDEX.
Vivedino is currently launching the Marathon, a larger sized, enclosed IDEX-Trident-like machine running on Klipper. Not endorsing them or whatever, but it may be something to keep an eye on in terms of reviews.
Having run my J1s through its paces, I can see where the challenges are more clearly now. And why Snapmaker (really, Jadelabo) went with some customized firmware to do some tasks. Maybe able to duplicate with Klipper macros. But for now, this is pretty awesome.
But for me I also need a smaller and quieter printer for apartment living. So it fits for me.
The Vivedino Marathon looks amazing.
@@aminorinternet Yeah, I agree. I just wish I knew when it was actually going to exist as a real thing.
I bought the J1. Delivered tomorrow. I have a Voron 2.4 but I don’t think Klipper is made for dual extruder setups in the current state.
I need a idex to print parts and the j1, for 900€, beats the Prusa XL or other brands in price by far.
Thanks for the review! The mixed filament types being used as supports is neat to watch.
Love the reviews they are so detailed and well formatted❤
The best 3D printer presentations:
- the explanations are clear and well formulated
- the shots are excellent
- your English can be understood very well by a French person
- your voice is very pleasant to listen to.. 😎
------------
Les meilleurs présentations d'imprimantes 3D :
- les explications sont claires et bien formulées
- les prises de vues sont excellentes
- votre anglais peut être très bien compris par un français
- votre voix est très agréable à écouter. 😎
Thank you both for your hardwork, and a Happy New Year.......
Unless you need to print more than 2 colors / filaments, idex is much much better than the filament switching machines. You also get the double/ mirror print functionality. So using the dual printing, you actual printed a benchy every 13 minutes. Very cool looking machine.
A very well done review! Thanks
Very good review. I would like to have an IDEX printer, and I see you have this one at the top of the list. Keep up the good work!
Aurora, you and your team continue to demonstrate exemplary skills. This IDEX is unique but your review demonstrates significant limitations unless the dual extruder offers unique solutions. For me and at this price, no thanks but a really good try by IDEX to differentiate its offerings.
...with each passing day, the army of Robo Alpacas grows...
I'm picturing a room filling with Robo Alpacas sort of like when Harry Potter was in that room where everything had the Gemino Curse and kept multiplying 👀
Pricey, but capable. For specific printing where you need dissolvable or non-stick supports, or something like TPU components inside of another print, this is an amazing option. Quality isn't 100% there, but good. I wonder if running in mirror mode actually cancel out a lot of X-axis resonance or reverberation. Would be interesting to test if counterweights can improve print quality in general.
Follow up! You're right about the corners. There's no calibration procedure for the pressure advance, so I made my own test print. Turning up the K factor around a factor of 2 from factory made the edges neatly sharper. Good eye! I hadn't noticed.
Slight correction: its a fully cartesian system, so not even a core xy hybrid like a tridex. The x stepper are along for the ride with the x axis
Yeah. I think called "Cartesian XY?"
It was a mistake; it's definitely not a CoreXY. I've corrected it and am waiting for UA-cam to update it.
@@timm7524 im not sure if there is a official name for that, although the term cross gantry in the case of an ultimaker is pretty established in the community, but that doesn't have moving steppers. Although makerbot kinematics was also a pretty known term, but not sure if i want to tie that to a brand that no longer exists
7:10 - Mirror mode is clever. With a dual print head printer where the print heads are not independent, two objects can be printed but the mass of the print heads add together to increase ringing and other artifacts. Printing a mirror imaged part cancels the X axis accelerations by subtracting them from each other.
Copy mode is also fine if the object can't be mirrored. Even if need slow down a little, you still get parts two times faster.
Non independent printers don't usually have even a copy mode, since the distance between the nozzles often fixed (like an Ultimaker).
@@timm7524 - I had an early non-independent dual extruder printer that had a copy mode that slaved the extruder 2 motor and hot end 2 temperature to print head 1. Obviously, that only works for parts narrower in the X direction than the extruder separation, which was fairly narrow on those printers. I've seen multi-extruder printers where the user can quickly change the separation between extruders and add/subtract extruders to tailor the printer to printing multiple copies of different parts. I believe the new Elegoo OrangeStorm Giga printer has some or all of those abilities to better take advantage of the huge print area.
Not found that，similar with copy mode
Thanks a lot for the review. I was planning to buy this printer. You helped me save my money.
I think dual extruders are the next big thing coming to the lower end printer market. It can't be that much harder or expensive to physically make and operate.
I think anker's solution is the next big thing. It has multiple hot ends that lift and lower on the same print head to switch colors
Thanks, great review, one I have been waiting for. Due to the complexity of the IDex design, I would like another review after a month of daily use with PETG as removable supports for PLA, or vise versa.
If you hunt around, a couple others have reviewed this too. ModBot I think?
I've done it and it's great when support adhesion isn't important. And where you don't print support material on the part.
Otherwise breakaway material like she did with the HT wrench print sticks a bit better. It's somewhere between using same-material support and different material support in terms of difficulty to remove.
I've used the PLA breakaway material too, and it's worked really well.
Thanks for the info. I make functional parts and when supports are the only option, I would like to keep the Z clearance to minimum. I have seen a ModBots review and a couple others, I just like the in-depth reviews that Aurora makes and I have concerns related to the extruders reliability.
7:20 Thank you for your review. Question: Why would you measure noise level of enclosed printer with door and the top open? That beats the purpose of how it was built.
Watching the crate print at about 22:45 it looks like the oblong carrying handle slots printed without supports. Am I missing something? I'm not super knowledgeable about 3D printing techniques so I'm really just wondering how this can be done. Thanks.
0:39 you mentioned it's a corexy kinematic. is it really? I was sure J1 series isn't a corexy, though I don't have any of them.
If it wasn't a coreXY then the bed would be moving back and forth for the Y axis.
@@3dprintedhardware no, that's not how it works. A core xy machine uses 2 motors for each xy movement while a cartesian machine has motors separated for x and y movement. This machine is actually cartesian. Movement of the bed does not matter in this regard.
I agree with you, it's cartesian, you can see in the video the 2 x motors
@@3dprintedhardware No. That has absolutely *nothing* to do with it. A CoreXY is not the same as a "cube like printer". A Voron 2.4 is a CoreXY. A Bambu Lab P1 or X1 is a CoreXY. But a cube-form says nothing about the machine being CoreXY. An Ender 5 Plus is a cube-format printer and does not move the bed over the Y axis, but it's not a CoreXY. Nor is the Tronxy X5SA-600 Veho, although it has the same cube format as the X5SA-500. CoreXY kinematics are determined by the logic behind the 2 motors and the used belt path, not by the "printer format or the yes-or-no movement of the bed over an Y axis".
This is a H-Bot one Motor for X and one for Y, Core XY move X and Y with Both Motors and when its using one Motor the Printhead drives diagonal …
Can't wait to see your review of the prusa xl 2 head+ to compare with
Question: Do you create calibrated filament profiles before testing tolerances etc? Reviewers never seem to mention if they have done pressure advance, flow rate, temperature etc calibrations specific to the filament being used. If not doing all of that, then tolerance tests and similar tests are meaningless IMO. Just curious! Love your videos.
Not totally meaningless. It does at least show how ready the printer is to be used out of the box without calibration. However I agree that reviewers should mention whether they did this or not.
@@SkiPump Yeah it shows how ready the printer is with the manufacturer's filament in particular I suppose, but reviewers are almost always using some other sponsor's filament like Voxel or Polymaker. If they don't tune for the filament that they actually use and then proceed to judge tolerances, or worse, compare Printer A to Printer B, then I take issue with it. Now I try to ask in the comments.
Loyal Moses recently directly compared 2 machines by printing models that were sliced for the manufacturer's filament rather than the filament he actually used. The results were backwards from what he expected.. because the higher end machine's model was sliced for filament that could print at 21mm/s³ while his filament, in my experience, topped out at 12mm/s³ before running into issues. I felt it was very misleading.
Nice review. I would've thought the main reason people are interested in this printer a water soluble supports. I would've liked to seen some comment about this maybe next time thanks. The world is drowning in plastic. Ways must be really found to address this. Water soluble supports are a good solution.
Hi Aurora, well done for the video again. I have a tech remark that i think it should be interesting for you as well to consider for your reviews. You mentioned that the printer is core xy but it actually is not: as far as a i see it's cartesian with 1 motor for each x axis and i don't know how many for the Y. Core xy IDEX is really difficult to implement and it's basically not present in the market.
This means that the quality/speed should be considered for comparison somewhere in the middle between a core xy and a bed slinger and in this regard it would be interesting to know how the Y movement is implemented and how much does the X gantry with the 2 hotends and everything weigh, to make a sort of weighted comparison between this machine and a bed slinger.
That's my take on this, congratulation for another very interesting video! Cheers
It was a mistake; it's definitely not a CoreXY. I've corrected it and am waiting for UA-cam to update it.
The Helio 44-2 is one of my favorite lenses!
one solid idex printer. the price justifies the quality and capability plus easiest to setup idex. saving for this as a fast semi production printer.
Ha! Was looking for your review before I bought one last month anyway. 😊 Totally agree, one month later.
It has its quirks, but it really is a great little IDEX. The auto XY is worth its weight in gold. If you just want fast, pretty PLA prints then other printers might be better. But for two color and true dual material (supports) it's been great.
Also could stand a minor hot end upgrade. Otherwise I've found it pretty reliable. It also has a free Cura plugin which is what I use for my own designs that lets you send wirelessly from Cura. (There are Prusa profiles too, but haven't dug into them.)
Overall, for a hobbyist designer or engineer, I think it's a great machine. And it really is nice being able to do some pretty two color stuff without all the waiting and plastic guilt!
Great Video. Just curious about using multi-color filament in each extruders. Would be cool to see a creative application.
Would be very interesting in how all of the enclosed printers compare with edge curl for ABS. Would love a formbot marathon review!
Another great review. I'd like to buy a 3D printer that can print a structural material such as ABS along with TPU on the same part. Unfortunately, it seems that all dual extruder printers use Bowden tubes which are incompatible with TPU, particularly with a 90 degree bend at the top of the extruder. I'm starting to suspect I'll need to build my own 3D printer to print TPU and ABS
This is a reverse bowden tube that only guides the filament from the spool to the direct drive heads. Using Capricorn's Reverse Bowden tube allows for you to use TPU90 or TPU95 on the J1.
@@jeffrey.edgett - A reverse Bowden tube is somewhat less problematic than a Bowden tube for low durometer filaments, but still adds drag that tends to elongate the filament in the direct drive extruder, resulting in under extrusion and possible slippage that can chew up the filament. I print a lot of 98A TPU, which prints much better with a direct drive extruder, and an overhead reel on a low friction bearing roller. I generally don't even use a filament sensor because the small drag it adds can be problematic. I also print a product using 85A NinjaFlex TPU and a Bowden tube of any variety is out of the question.
I’m ur #1 fan 🤩
Just as a suggestion for multicolor (especially IDEX) printers. When you print your box, do one with a couple of stripes in it.... I am now using that box to test great idea though.
Must be winter, the sweaters and jackets are out! ;)
Please consider reviewing the Formbox Marathon IDEX
Do you think you can start scoring/testing voc & fume leaks/filtering please?
Excellent review
Thanks for the review! I can’t buy the Bambu for normal price in my country,so now I’m thinking to go with flash forge 5m (maybe pro?) or Anycubic kobra 2 pro or Creality ender 3 v3 ke, which one has a better print quality or a speed? And if the flash forge as I think is slightly better in terms of print quality can you mention the 2nd place in this comparison and how big is the difference in print quality between 2nd place and flash forge 5m ? Thanks for your reviews, they really helped me to make decision in previous year❤ P.s.: Will you make a review on flying bear ghost 6?
It would be nice to see a comparison between the Bambulab X1E and the Markforged Onyx One
How is that a fair comparison - the Markforged is a £6000 printer.
Another 50C on the hot end and I would be into trying one but I think I will have to go with the xmax first
I agree, they should switch to Klipper too.
When comparing to Prusa MK4, are those prints done with (somewhat recent) input shaping firmware or some older (non-IS, alpha, beta?) firmware? It's not quite clear if the comparison is fair 🤔
I suspect the levelling is done by sensing electrical contact? How then to you use say a ruby nozzle?
What about printing a benchy in 90 degree angle, as the cooling comes from one side. . .
Ender 3 v3 ke review ❤
OH, Helios is playing different parts of the songs, nice switch!
When will it come? Ender 3 v3 ke review video ❤
I like this one A LOT. Real dual extruders, Strong one piece die cast aluminium chassis, proper linear rails, no cloud based shitware. Two things ennoys me : The filament path, and the bed cable management so terrible that they removed it on their photos. Limiting the print height to 200mm and bending 90° the filament just to fit in the same height than a Bambu is STUPID. I would integrate a heated chamber at the top for spools with a straight path for filament, because anyway they need to be dryed and pre-heated.
All my J1 has done since day one is jam, I'm guessing that's what the "J" in J1 stands for. Stopped using it all together, the odd print that did finish had just "ok" quality. Honestly, I have $400 printers that turn out better quality, consistently, without all the jamming headache. I should have bailed on this kickstarter as soon as I heard Jade was having financial issues and Snapmaker bought them out. I had a feeling the end result was going to be what I got. Should have listened to my gut.
Sorry to hear that, but thanks for saving me my money.
That's rough, buddy. Having bought one more recently, I've not had all that trouble. It's true it needs the hot end fix Snapmaker is beta testing though to get to 100%.
im not sure if you sad it or not, but if you print 2 models and one of them come loose. can you cancel just that one? and let the other finish printing
I think this requires G code support and detection sensors to achieve this function.
Your voice is amazing,realy.Best regards.
Great review as always, much appreciated. This is too expensive for the size though
i dunno how i feel about this, my prusa mk2 have tolerance of 0.15 and it seems like a lot of stringing and ghosting compared to Bambu Labs
What temperatures can the enclosure reach?
Can someone tell me if this is CoreXY or regular cartesian with rising platform ? Great job as always
Is it possible to use different nozzle sizes for each print head? 0,4mm and 0,6mm for example?
yes，different extruders can also be used
I will not tell is a competition of the of Bambu X1. This machine is a different approach with two nozzles and print two models same time.
Morning can u still use a sd card or usb to download too and insert into printer
Yes, you can use the USB-A port at the front of the machine to print completely offline using a USB drive.
@@AuroraTech thank you for reply
bonjour de France a vous alors bonne machine même si on reste sur du marlin a priori moi qui et une x1c et avais envisager une autre pour éviter les décher suis pas encore convaincu même pour la Prusa XL ou la le prix et stratosphérique en 5 tête du coup j'attend une révolution dans la multi matériau plus écologique en tout cas merci car vraiment vous apprécie
Hello ,Hervé de France aussi....As tu acheté la J1 est est ce que tu recommande de prendre ce modèle plutôt qu'une P1S...J'ai déjà une Flashforge 5M Pro qui va plus vite que les X1C et super qualité.
Je viens de renvoyer ma A1 suite au problème de fil électrique et une Idex me satisferai mieux en termes de déchets énorme des Bambu
A te lire
Salut Hervé
I do not like how bad it shakes as it's printing. Needs some more stabilization in the front of the bed.
my biggest problem with 1000$ printers is that most have average surface quality for the price. We should be a point where anything in the 4 digits price range should not have average print quality.
I am waiting for you review video
Ender 3 v3 ke 3d printer ❤😊❤
Shame SnapMaker jacked up the prince from $999 to $1199 right after you released this video.
Too bad, the price went up by $100. Was really considering to get one.
Prices change frequently. Check out my website, auroratechchannel.com, for the full price history:
auroratechchannel.com/price-details.php?brand=SnapMaker&model=J1S
I wish i would have seen this before buying my P1S combo. The Bambu AMS ia so wasteful and slow its basically worthless.
After having used the Snapmaker Artisan at work I will avoid Snapmaker due to their terrible software.
Luban ? Still ?
Subbed
I'll be honest, that print quality is rough and that is being generous. When you consider this is a $1000 machine, that and the amount of manual calibration required is honestly pretty unacceptable for this price point. Filament is cheap and I'll happily take more waste over lower print quality, excessively expensive accessories and manual calibration if that is the choice presented. Don't get me wrong, I'm looking forward to someone putting out a printer that is competitive in price to the bambu printers and does multi color printing with less waste and at the same or higher quality. As of right now I can just add a little cost into a bid to cover filament waste and end quality is just flatly too important for those of us selling prints. As for print time, it is just cheaper for me to buy another printer if I have more volume than my current printers can produce in the space of time I have available.
Criticism aside, if this is strictly a hobby and wasting as little filament as possible is more important than efficiency, then I can certainly see the appeal of a machine like this. I'm still not entirely sold on the amount of calibration you need to do for the cost, but to each their own. Don't get me wrong, I love the idea SnapMaker has here, I just feel like the execution falls a bit short for what they are charging.
Cura with Luban plugin worked better. It was a decent machine.
A "snotmaker" ??? Sorry ,my speakers are terrible😂😎
As long as snapmaker uses luban, its trash wasted my money on the snapmaker 3 in 1. Save yourself the money and aggravation and stay away from Snapmaker.
can you only use their software on their printers? Maybe because of the modified marlin i guess
@@scipolah8810 Luban is the slicer and you can use a different slicer, but then you loose all network features which are not really great anyway.
Pretty sure the oprating system of the printer is locked and can not be changed, but I only have the Snapmaker artisan as refrence.
Totally agree, We have the Snapmaker artisan in the office, and the Hardware looks great, but the Software is absolutely horrible to use. Absolutely innaceptable for such an expensive machine.
It's fully supported in prusaslicer, including sending prints over WiFi 😊 works with orca too but I haven't tried that.
@@101stsurvivor do you still have to bring your gcode back into luban?
i am groot.
wooh first
the snapmaker j1s can't even copy bambu, because it came to market way before bambu apeared...
even didn't snapmaker develope the j1(s) on it's own...😎
No, they didn't. I was a former employee of theirs, Jade Labo, who tried her hand at starting her own company. The J1 was launched as a kickstarter with the Jade Labo name, then she ran into production quality issues, then financial issues. From what I remember, she went back to her old employer (Snapmaker) and asked for help. They bought her out, took over the project and rebranded it as the Snapmaker J1. Jade went back to work for Snapmaker and is still the face of this printer. But all its issues stemmed from when the company almost died during the kickstarter. Then it was rushed to market, which is why it has so many non-tested issues, like constantly jamming and under cooling.
I will never, ever buy a crapmaker machine again.
Fully Agree. Horrid company. Snapmaker 1 was a disaster. Snapmaker 2 was a CON. And using "Luban" as slicer alone is reason to not walk, but RUN away.
Interesting machine, but a bit too flawed I think. Not sure you can afford to market a $1K printer that falls short of the speeds and print quality of most of the new machines out there.
A 90 DEGREE TURN IN THE FILAMENT PATH?????
SnapMaker, WTAF? You folx aren't new, why you being so obviously bad?
I couldn't believe that either 😂
That one was ..... well it's highly optimistic, isn't it. :D
Proprietary firmware based on Marlin? This is so wrong as Marlin's license is GPLv3 and the GPL doesn't permit turning it into proprietary. Shame on you, Snapmaker
Their Marlin fork is available in github.
The way Snapmaker treated their Snapmaker 1 and Snapmaker 2 users learns us one thing : "they have no shame".
Not proprietary, it's open source: github.com/Snapmaker/SnapmakerController-IDEX
Yes. To be totally fair, they've fully released their Marlin source, but not the proprietary Android part. There was some discussion about their input shaping math vs Klipper back right around when Prusa hadn't yet released theirs.
Why do these prints look so bad? Massive layer lines and shifts.
I'm disappointed with the printer, I'm used to better things from Snapmaker.
😂😂😂😂 £1000 for 2 colour printing
I would say the high temp nozzles and the ability to print a different material for supports like a nonstick easy to remove filament or filament that dissolves in water and/or the ability to print with 2 different filaments without tripling the print time or wasting filament makes that price justifiable.
Cura with Luban plugin worked better. It was a decent machine.