What a great video. You ticked all the boxes. Practical, adjustable, easy to store, open sides so you don't have to slide your work in from the front or back. All the things my last shaving horse didn't have. I can't wait to start building you take down version. I have an Alaskan saw mill and with the Emerald Ash Borer killing all the ash trees here in New York I won't run out of material anytime soon. Thanks Well-Versed Man...
Thanks for your detailed comment. Yes, there is an abundance of ash on the market here in the eastern U.S. due to the beetle! Not good for the tree, but good those who work with green wood for stick chairs, bowls, and shaving horses (though I prefer seasoned wood for the shaving horse).
Thanks for your comment. I like J. Klein's shave horse. I'd like to make a one-piece dumbhead... someday. :) I also like the off-set pin for the dumbhead. I'll incorporate that into my next shave horse. His shave horse is a bit small for me. I also prefer the width of my clamping head that has lots of side access. The best design for you really depends on your most common use. I use mine equally for chairs and bows - that's why I prefer the design in my video. Good luck!
This video feels like an online-school instructional, except the teacher is actually interesting and speaks clearly and coherently. You made me feel as though I was a student who was being focused on. Your examples, instructions, and even the beautiful segues between subjects, were perfect, even if they felt slightly cliche, it was in a charming way. Thanks for this video. Please keep making videos, I do notice that you stopped posting, probably due to low interaction, but I can tell you that you appeared in my recommended, and Rex Kruger has also commented on this video.
Thank you for your thoughtful reply. You are correct, I posted a few videos and stopped. Most of those videos were produced during COVID. I had a lot of 'spare' time then. Back to work after spending so much time away from the office means little time. But I have been feeling the urge to start up again. No time like the present? I'm thinking about something this summer.
Excellent and informative video. The tendency of the bench to rock fore and aft can be limited by the splay of the legs. On the horse shown, the legs are splayed only to the sides. If they are also splayed toward the ends of the plank, the tendency to rock is greatly reduced. By the way, I love the bowl--making attachment. Great idea. When I make a similar one I think I'll put narrow steps on the inside face of the chest board to make various levels at which a bowl can rest.
Thank you for your comment! I'm glad you like the bowl-making attachment. I built a bowl horse but gave it to a friend because it took too much space in my tiny shop. The attachment has worked great. I thought about putting in some notches or steps and still may do that in the future. I figured I'd try it out and then add the steps but I really haven't found a need in my workflow so far. Thanks for the tip about the leg splay. I built the take-down shaving horse with side-to-side and front-to-back splay. It still rocks but the leg tenons are tapered and friction fit when I use it, but maybe the splay wasn't enough. I think some motion is inherent in the design.
I appreciate your assessments and reasoning regarding changes based on your experience. I’m in the middle of my very first shave horse build - a simple, organic build modeled on a video by Mick Grewcock. I’m modifying some facets of the horse, but your input is invaluable right about now since I only just finished the bench. I will take your observations into consideration for the rest.
Great. My way is not the only way. I often start with a plan and then modify it to suit my needs as you are doing. I did the same thing with a spoon mule - I got a set of plans, then built it with a few modifications based on my previous experience. Good luck with your new shave horse.
Nice video. I quite like the knockdown version but am disappointed it needs fasteners at all. If you put the pivot in the bench instead of the incline board, the the act of clamping should also draw yhe incline board to the bench, keeping it all tight. This would change the leverage a fair bit, though.
Thank you, that was a pleasure to watch. I'm currently working on a design that I saw Ben Orford use once. Similar to yours. The "dumb head" is open at both sides.
I really like the open ends. It give me so much flexibility when I use the horse. I haven't tried Ben Orford's design, however I can tell it is a great design. Good luck with your creation!
I am currently constructing my own horse out of a fallen maple tree. I am wondering what width mortises you cut into the seat bench and the platform board? I am thinking 1.5 inches might be fine. I want to construct my dumb head out of one large single piece. This really is a fun project. I’ll keep referring back to your video and website article.
@@scottwardcarvings Thanks for your question. My original horse, as shown in the video, was put together with 3" drywall screws! That was over 30 years ago before I knew much about building such a device. I've put that thing through a lot since then, thrown in the back of a pickup truck and taken to shows, etc. There really isn't any stress on those joints except down pressure (which does not stress those joints). If I wanted to use a mortice, I'd make one, half-inch thick tenon about 1 inch wide and 3/4 inch deep in the center of the bench and platform board. Why only this tenon in the center? Wood movement. The seat board changes dimensions through the seasons. If you made a tenon about as wide as the seat board, it might fail. It is the same concept of a table with breadboard ends where you only glue the center tenon. Hey - the dumbhead made from a single piece will look really nice! Good luck!
Thank you for you comment! Just be careful with the drawknife, they can be addicting. I bought my first one and was happy with it for a few years. But then I bought another, and another... It is my favorite tool and such a pleasure to use. :)
Hi The reason for the incline board as you call it is when you are prepping thin willow laths for the sides of truggs, They need support and a narrower incline board. Also a bodger only made chair legs and spindles on a pole lathe in the woods where they were stacked to dry out. Made out of beech, ash and yew. These were taken to High Wycombe to the Windsor chair making factories where the top end of the legs were put into an oven to quickly dry them before they were turned to the right size to fit into the elm seat. You can always tell if you have an antique chair made this way as if you feel the legs they will be oval.
Thank you for your helpful insights. Did the bodgers use the "bodger's horse' for Windsor leg production at all? I understand that the legs were turned green in forest. It would certainly be easier to rough out the riven wood with a drawknife rather than the pole lathe. Perhaps the old-growth wood could have been riven very close to the final leg diameter negating the need for a shaving horse?
Fantastic video! I’m so turned around on what to build. Actually saw a video where a kid made one out of scrap lumber. Now I have another one to throw into the mix. Thanks for sharing! Subscribed.😊
Thanks for sharing these designs. I have this on my list of projects to make. Do you have to apply a lot of pressure with your legs to hold or clamp the wood? I was just curious how much strain it puts on your legs.
That is an interesting question. The amount of pressure needed can vary depending on the what you are drawknifing. If you are working on greenwood legs or spindles, the pressure on the legs is very minimal. The legs are mainly acting as a brace to hold your body in place as you pull the drawknife with your arms. Often, I just use one leg to clamp, so I don't really use much pressure at all. The weight of the leg is enough to hold the work in place. Now, when I am working on a dry (hard) bow stave, I may exert much more pressure at times. I hope that helps!
I am not sure if the video mentioned it or not but on the front legs I noticed the legs are angled , would you mind sharing the angle in which the holes we drilled for the front legs?
I did not mention it in the video. I built that shaving horse about 30 years ago before I knew what I was doing. That shaving horse has some splay but no rake. It could benefit from both. Check out the video at 13:30 - my new take-down version. I put 12 degrees of rake and splay on each leg.
Awesome video and blog, I have the beginning of a build myself starting with a old pine coffee table and recycled cherry chair seat. I may have missed it but what type of wood was used for the break down version? Also are the dimensions the same as original?
I'm glad you liked the video and blog. The take-down shaving horse was made from tulip tree, sometimes called tulip poplar. I like that hardwood because it grows fast and is relatively low cost per board foot. The dimensions are almost identical.
The only reason I can think to have a longer incline board is if you are working thin, flexible material such as basket splints. In that case, you would want support under the drawknife or scraper. The drawknife's handles would have to be wider than the incline board so the drawknife could essentially straddle the incline board. Regarding bow making, you would not need that support under the bow. I use the shaving horse for two types of projects: bow making and chair making. I've found the shorter incline board works best for we with those two projects.
I am about 5' 7". My good friend is about 5' 10" and has used another built to the same specs for many years. The leg height could easily be increased. The top of the seat is 19" from the floor. I suppose you could also increase the height of the inclined board if you are tall!
I really like the word Schnitzelbank because in our German language Schnitzel means cutlet (escalopes). It'll be a perfect tool for flatening out the slice of meat before putting it into the pan. 😂😂
Thank you for your comment! Apologies to your husband for improper German. In the future, I'll use Schnitzbank. My guess is that Schnitzelbank may be an American corruption of Schnitzbank. :)
What a great video and your presentation is excellent!
Thank you for your comment. Much appreciated!
What a great video. You ticked all the boxes. Practical, adjustable, easy to store, open sides so you don't have to slide your work in from the front or back. All the things my last shaving horse didn't have. I can't wait to start building you take down version. I have an Alaskan saw mill and with the Emerald Ash Borer killing all the ash trees here in New York I won't run out of material anytime soon. Thanks Well-Versed Man...
Thanks for your detailed comment. Yes, there is an abundance of ash on the market here in the eastern U.S. due to the beetle! Not good for the tree, but good those who work with green wood for stick chairs, bowls, and shaving horses (though I prefer seasoned wood for the shaving horse).
Very well done sir , new sub...might almighty God bless you and yours...
Thank you for your kind words, much appreciated...
Brilliant! I’m indecisive between this and Joshua Klein ‘s Continental style shave horse. Cheers
Thanks for your comment. I like J. Klein's shave horse. I'd like to make a one-piece dumbhead... someday. :) I also like the off-set pin for the dumbhead. I'll incorporate that into my next shave horse. His shave horse is a bit small for me. I also prefer the width of my clamping head that has lots of side access. The best design for you really depends on your most common use. I use mine equally for chairs and bows - that's why I prefer the design in my video. Good luck!
This video feels like an online-school instructional, except the teacher is actually interesting and speaks clearly and coherently. You made me feel as though I was a student who was being focused on. Your examples, instructions, and even the beautiful segues between subjects, were perfect, even if they felt slightly cliche, it was in a charming way.
Thanks for this video.
Please keep making videos, I do notice that you stopped posting, probably due to low interaction, but I can tell you that you appeared in my recommended, and Rex Kruger has also commented on this video.
Thank you for your thoughtful reply. You are correct, I posted a few videos and stopped. Most of those videos were produced during COVID. I had a lot of 'spare' time then. Back to work after spending so much time away from the office means little time. But I have been feeling the urge to start up again. No time like the present? I'm thinking about something this summer.
Keith thank you for this video. I have never heard of spoon mule let alone seen one. BRAVO!
Thank you for your comment. I never heard of a spoon mule until a dozen years ago. I've used it a lot though!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience!
My pleasure! Thanks for your comment.
Very thoughtful descriptions of your modifications. Thank you
I'm glad you liked it and thank you for your comment!
Thank you so much for sharing your amazing shaving horses.
I'm glad you like them!
Excellent and informative video. The tendency of the bench to rock fore and aft can be limited by the splay of the legs. On the horse shown, the legs are splayed only to the sides. If they are also splayed toward the ends of the plank, the tendency to rock is greatly reduced.
By the way, I love the bowl--making attachment. Great idea. When I make a similar one I think I'll put narrow steps on the inside face of the chest board to make various levels at which a bowl can rest.
Thank you for your comment! I'm glad you like the bowl-making attachment. I built a bowl horse but gave it to a friend because it took too much space in my tiny shop. The attachment has worked great. I thought about putting in some notches or steps and still may do that in the future. I figured I'd try it out and then add the steps but I really haven't found a need in my workflow so far. Thanks for the tip about the leg splay. I built the take-down shaving horse with side-to-side and front-to-back splay. It still rocks but the leg tenons are tapered and friction fit when I use it, but maybe the splay wasn't enough. I think some motion is inherent in the design.
I appreciate your assessments and reasoning regarding changes based on your experience.
I’m in the middle of my very first shave horse build - a simple, organic build modeled on a video by Mick Grewcock.
I’m modifying some facets of the horse, but your input is invaluable right about now since I only just finished the bench. I will take your observations into consideration for the rest.
Great. My way is not the only way. I often start with a plan and then modify it to suit my needs as you are doing. I did the same thing with a spoon mule - I got a set of plans, then built it with a few modifications based on my previous experience. Good luck with your new shave horse.
@@well-versedman9583 I certainly hope mine is as enduring as yours has proven to be. 🙂
Thank you for your sympathik video from the 'Schnitzlbank'!!! Liebe Grűsse aus Kärnten/Österreich🙃
Thank you for watching the video!
Very informative. Thank you.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Nice video.
I quite like the knockdown version but am disappointed it needs fasteners at all. If you put the pivot in the bench instead of the incline board, the the act of clamping should also draw yhe incline board to the bench, keeping it all tight. This would change the leverage a fair bit, though.
Thank this was very helpful
This is absolutely incredible. Thank you for the video!
Thank you so much for your kind words. I'm glad you enjoyed it. :)
i'm convinced, gonna build it
Great! I hope you enjoy this very useful tool as much as I do.
Thank you, that was a pleasure to watch. I'm currently working on a design that I saw Ben Orford use once. Similar to yours. The "dumb head" is open at both sides.
I really like the open ends. It give me so much flexibility when I use the horse. I haven't tried Ben Orford's design, however I can tell it is a great design. Good luck with your creation!
@@well-versedman9583 thank you. Working on it right now!
Nice work there chum, thanks for showing this!
Thank you!
Great video. Great horses! Thank you.
Thanks for your comments! I'm glad you liked the video.
I am currently constructing my own horse out of a fallen maple tree. I am wondering what width mortises you cut into the seat bench and the platform board? I am thinking 1.5 inches might be fine. I want to construct my dumb head out of one large single piece. This really is a fun project. I’ll keep referring back to your video and website article.
@@scottwardcarvings Thanks for your question. My original horse, as shown in the video, was put together with 3" drywall screws! That was over 30 years ago before I knew much about building such a device. I've put that thing through a lot since then, thrown in the back of a pickup truck and taken to shows, etc. There really isn't any stress on those joints except down pressure (which does not stress those joints). If I wanted to use a mortice, I'd make one, half-inch thick tenon about 1 inch wide and 3/4 inch deep in the center of the bench and platform board. Why only this tenon in the center? Wood movement. The seat board changes dimensions through the seasons. If you made a tenon about as wide as the seat board, it might fail. It is the same concept of a table with breadboard ends where you only glue the center tenon. Hey - the dumbhead made from a single piece will look really nice! Good luck!
Mortices in the seat board and platform board, tenons in the spacer block.
Wow thank you so much,I just bought a drawknife so I can make some fencing and gates.again thank you.
Thank you for you comment! Just be careful with the drawknife, they can be addicting. I bought my first one and was happy with it for a few years. But then I bought another, and another... It is my favorite tool and such a pleasure to use. :)
excellent - thank you
Hi The reason for the incline board as you call it is when you are prepping thin willow laths for the sides of truggs, They need support and a narrower incline board. Also a bodger only made chair legs and spindles on a pole lathe in the woods where they were stacked to dry out. Made out of beech, ash and yew. These were taken to High Wycombe to the Windsor chair making factories where the top end of the legs were put into an oven to quickly dry them before they were turned to the right size to fit into the elm seat. You can always tell if you have an antique chair made this way as if you feel the legs they will be oval.
Thank you for your helpful insights. Did the bodgers use the "bodger's horse' for Windsor leg production at all? I understand that the legs were turned green in forest. It would certainly be easier to rough out the riven wood with a drawknife rather than the pole lathe. Perhaps the old-growth wood could have been riven very close to the final leg diameter negating the need for a shaving horse?
Great video! Thanks!
I'm glad to hear that you liked it! Thanks!
Fantastic video! I’m so turned around on what to build. Actually saw a video where a kid made one out of scrap lumber. Now I have another one to throw into the mix. Thanks for sharing! Subscribed.😊
Thanks for your comments. I've even built shaving horses out of 2x4s. Build what you can now and upgrade later!
Welcome back!
Hi 👋 👋 👋 👋 Thanks for your video and how you explain how things are done I was really impressed with everything that's done on your videos
Thank you for taking the time for your kind feedback!
excellent! It was very helpful. go look good
I am glad it was helpful! Thank you.
Thanks for sharing these designs. I have this on my list of projects to make. Do you have to apply a lot of pressure with your legs to hold or clamp the wood? I was just curious how much strain it puts on your legs.
That is an interesting question. The amount of pressure needed can vary depending on the what you are drawknifing. If you are working on greenwood legs or spindles, the pressure on the legs is very minimal. The legs are mainly acting as a brace to hold your body in place as you pull the drawknife with your arms. Often, I just use one leg to clamp, so I don't really use much pressure at all. The weight of the leg is enough to hold the work in place. Now, when I am working on a dry (hard) bow stave, I may exert much more pressure at times. I hope that helps!
@@well-versedman9583 thanks - that makes sense.
i like it as its very simple !
Thank you so much!
I am not sure if the video mentioned it or not but on the front legs I noticed the legs are angled , would you mind sharing the angle in which the holes we drilled for the front legs?
I did not mention it in the video. I built that shaving horse about 30 years ago before I knew what I was doing. That shaving horse has some splay but no rake. It could benefit from both. Check out the video at 13:30 - my new take-down version. I put 12 degrees of rake and splay on each leg.
Awesome video and blog, I have the beginning of a build myself starting with a old pine coffee table and recycled cherry chair seat.
I may have missed it but what type of wood was used for the break down version? Also are the dimensions the same as original?
I'm glad you liked the video and blog. The take-down shaving horse was made from tulip tree, sometimes called tulip poplar. I like that hardwood because it grows fast and is relatively low cost per board foot. The dimensions are almost identical.
Great.!!!!
Thank you!
One reason for a longer incline board could be bowmaking or longer, flexible boards?
The only reason I can think to have a longer incline board is if you are working thin, flexible material such as basket splints. In that case, you would want support under the drawknife or scraper. The drawknife's handles would have to be wider than the incline board so the drawknife could essentially straddle the incline board. Regarding bow making, you would not need that support under the bow. I use the shaving horse for two types of projects: bow making and chair making. I've found the shorter incline board works best for we with those two projects.
Looking to build shave horse much like yours - can I ask your height? Wondering if your horse's sizing will fit my frame.
I am about 5' 7". My good friend is about 5' 10" and has used another built to the same specs for many years. The leg height could easily be increased. The top of the seat is 19" from the floor. I suppose you could also increase the height of the inclined board if you are tall!
I tried to get measurements on the shaving horse from your blog but it won't let me.
My web page is temporarily offline. I am working on getting it back online soon.
My web page is back up. I reposted the blog post about the shaving horse. The measurements are in the blog! www.wellversedman.com
How do I find your link to your plans
I have a working sketch on my shaving horse blog post: wellversedman.com/my-shaving-horse/
I am trying to find the plans for your shaving horse, but am not having any success.
great video. In Germany it is called Schnitzbank not Schnitzelbank. Greetings from Germany
Thanks for the comment from Germany! I wish I could change wording in the video.
now you know why the board was so long so one could put a post in place for bole turning
🙏👍👍👍👍
I really like the word Schnitzelbank because in our German language Schnitzel means cutlet (escalopes). It'll be a perfect tool for flatening out the slice of meat before putting it into the pan. 😂😂
I'm discovering more versatility for the Schnitzelbank every day!
In German ist's called "Schnitzbank", not Schnitzelbank. Schnitz means Shave.
Schnitzel is something completely different
In the region in switzerland where I grew up we called it Zügesel = Drawdonkey
I am trying to find the plans for your shaving horse, but am not finding it.
My web page is temporarily offline. I am working on getting it back online soon.
My web page is back up. I reposted the blog post about the shaving horse. The measurements are in the blog! www.wellversedman.com
Thank you! I also found a shaving horse at our local museum. It is a little different. It uses a piece of angle iron for the dumbhead.
Not to be picky but the proper German is Schnitzbank or Die Zugbank or schnitspferd. This according to my native German husband
Thank you for your comment! Apologies to your husband for improper German. In the future, I'll use Schnitzbank. My guess is that Schnitzelbank may be an American corruption of Schnitzbank. :)
As Professor Schnitzel asked ist this nicht ein schnitzelbank
? Are you making a statement that "this is not a schnitzelbank" or asking "is this not a schnitzelbank"?
The correkt word in german is " Schnitzbank" in some counties even "Schnitzesel". Schnitzel is a baken peace of meat.
Just PA Dutch here
Native german speaker here, it is schnitzbank not SCHNITZELbank
Quit bodgering me !
:)
Great video - thank you!
Thanks for watching!