I always like to keep a black light flashlight at my desk when I’m painting with fluorescent paints. Not for any practical reason, but because it’s fun to watch your model glow in the dark 😅
Just a quick note, in case you don't already know. Uv light is really bad for your eyes, so if you used the torch make sure you don't look into the torch itself - the Uv rays cause cataracts
Same thing happened at two shops near me. Apparently the distributor alliance just started stocking them so it's now much easier to put them on the shelf
@@redscope897 florescents as highlights are weird sometimes on photos and seeing as I absolutely love doing this style of highlight (even though I'm admittedly not even close to getting as smooth a blend as Vince here is) it really does give this effect in person that just draws your eye. I will say, it could also depend on your model's theme and your personal tastes. If you're more of a grimdark guy I would 100% agree that the first cape looks better. Personally, i love that variation on the same color and the exaggerated highlight the second style gives. Good luck on your hobby journey y'all!
@@redscope897 You can also try a transparent from PA over the red cape... I sometimes find it gives the effect I think Vince was hinting at, but in a different way if you didn't like how the flouro turned out. The transparents are wild-- they can be used in so many different ways to fill a gap between your almost-finished and finished model. (Of course they have loads of other uses as well). The transparent white is its own journey... :)
One of the more Matt finish in flours I have ever used or seen. Several coats must be applied do get the desired effect(even over whites). they are a good additive to add to traditional paints to help rise brightness. Not as punchy as Golden, Daller Rowney, or AK. Possibly due to the Matt Medium used? I love Pro Achryl but these will sit on my shelf more often than my others. Great video and instruction on flours! Thanks!!
They are SUPER bright and punch when you put them on a miniature painted w/PA paints because the entire miniature is matte. I also did use the pink and green on a Citadel-painted miniature and it looked great. The purple I have found is actually just a really great deep contrast if you thin it a bit, or it can be used as a pop color with a purple themed miniature, but I honestly am not sure I would have put it in the box... one is not like the others...
Great video, had me looking for the set while watching was unable to find in the UK, but i did find Jons set so theres that but will keep searching, hear that Roman Laplatte uses florescent paint and now Vince is definitely a must get set.
Hi Vince… Just bought this set so a much welcome video, planning to use them on the WH40k Avatar… thanks for doing this and all your other excellent UA-cam tutorials👍🏻
Glad to see this. I do wish that years ago I had better understood the crucial role of a well-chosen basecoat and multiple layers when working with fluorescents, as I had concluded based on my own experiments that they were just destined to be a disappointment in my model projects.
As you describe the characteristics and saying to myself “yep, uh huh, agreed, that’s true”. I feel the same way about them. The cape highlight = *chef’s kiss*
Hey Vince Just wondering if you would be interested in HC episode suggestion; the suggestion is Tri-angulation IE Using specific subtle shapes and painting techniques that draw the eye towards the center of the model, when the center of the model is the focus. You're the man Have a great day
How about follow up video on the PA transparents. Or just transparent paints in general? I know Vallejo used to make them, but I now see it’s not in the Model Color range anymore.
I have the Golden Fluorescents, but given Monument's awesome reputation (and your review), I plan on picking up the Pro Acryl Fluorescents to add additional variety and a better tool for specific applications. I also note on Monument's site they have a "Texture Trainer" model. This seems like an excellent idea! I'd love to see you consider doing this to showcase how you perform different textures all on the same model. Thanks Vince!
now i wanna try that white -> fluo pink -> fluo red method with that "many little scratchy highlights to emulate cloth texture" technique you showed of in (at least) one of your previous HC videos, my cloaks and tabards really came to live since I started incorporating that one into my repertoire. i'd probably try something like ice yellow before going to gray/white before the fluo steps, or would you say the yellow tint could throw off the end result?
I've been painting my tyranids with both bold colors and finishing with fluorescent paints to make them just wild. It's been a really fun experience. The colors are amazing, and the poor coverage of the fluorescent paints make them really easy to blend!
I really found use out of Monuments new Transparent white color with these flourescent new colors. It wasnt in the original set. I am not great at OSL but this was kind of a cheat for me. Any plans to include that Transparent White from Monument in any future videos?
Thanks for posting this. I’ve been looking at Monument fluorescents vs. the Golden high flow for a fire effect. I think you answered both of my questions as I wanted to know which would airbrush best, thanks!
Would be awesome if you made a follow up video that specifically focuses around using these paints for stuff like glowing eyes and OSL effects under a blacklight.
Could be cool, but that would limit how you could use those fluorescents as very punchy highlights. Because fluorescents literally fluoresce aka glow under a UV/blacklight, you would have to save the fluorescents for only the source, and balancing that against the glow on the object (the rest of the mini) would be difficult.
Exactly! It would be interesting to see how the best of the best attempts to pull it off. Even mixing different colors of fluoresent paint can diminish the effect. The trick would probably have to be do all the shading and highlighting underneath and almost treat the fluorescent as a UV reactive glaze. Try and pull off the juggling act between looking good and getting some punch while under normal light but then cranking it that notch higher when the model is under UV. @@MrSJPowell
I'm not generally interested in anything under the black light or similar, I just don't think it looks interesting or compelling. That being said, doing some more videos on glowing eyes and similar will certainly happen.
That yellow would be perfect for doing highlights for fire, like one of the models in the CSM Legionaires Kill Team box, as a chartreuse Felfire (Warcraft) style in conjunction with Tesseract Glow. Based on what you've said, rebasing the highlight areas before applying
I have found the yellow to be a bit less pigmented (surprise! it's yellow!) than the others, so just keep that in mind-- might need an extra coat of it, or you can use another trick which is to put it over a yellow base rather than a white base... that's worked well too. Just have to play around w/them a lot and see what effect you like best with them. The green has an incredible breadth and depth of usability -- both for what it can do & what other colors it can work with.
Love the videos I'm very curious what your recipe is for OSL fire effects are with fluorescent paints through an airbrush. I typically use the contrast paint range badmoon yellow, magmadroth flame, baal red. How much more punch would get out of a fluorescent paint pallet?
Depends on the particulars of the OSL are, but generally, just different shades of Oranges, Browns and Yellows. I have some videos where I am doing OSL and you will see that in play, as well as just fire in general.
would be curious of your opinion on using inks (liquitex, daler rowny, etc) for high-pigmentation covering vs paint (insert brand, not sure if it matters). my experience has been that they can be mixed with acrylic paints and can add some extra punch to the color. they also seem to work nicely as translucent shading.
So my question is, do they actually still glow under black light? I know they wanted to focus on color vibrancy in normal light (which is appreciated) but I am curious how much they differ from, say, Golden when it comes to black light glow.
Something to note for those who are looking to get these paints for purposes of how they will look under a black light: they may not fluoresce the way you expect. Monument Hobbies focused their formulation of these paints to look best under normal lighting, appearance under black lighting wasn't their goal. This is per their comments on their UA-cam video announcing the release of these paints.
Nice video! havn't tested Pro Acryl ones yet! I'v been a big fan of Flourescent paints for the last 2 years, especially for OSL effects! But also like you did highlighting Red or Purples, since you can't go too LIGHT with red / Purple without it becomming pinkish or orange. Just too bad there are no good BLUE flourescent paints, doesn't work well it seems.
Recently used some Vallejo fluorescent green for a model and so my first question when I clicked on the video was are these as gummy as Vallejo fluorescent. Great review. I'll have to keep these on my radar.
They are definitely not as gummy. That one was a nightmare to use. You can also just buy the PA green separately now (I believe?) and try it to test to see if it does what you need it to do.
How does the dry color compare to the wet color? Not 10-20 minutes later but overnight. My golden paints frequently, but not always, lose that "punch" after drying overnight.
unfortunately I found these too late as I got the vallejo game color flou set before I was aware these had come out. These look good though and I have been purchasing some pro acryl paints as of late to replace my Citadel paints as I use them up and really enjoy the quality and price
It's a bit disappointing, too; while I don't want to say that it's _wrong_ to use the fluorescent green for radiation glow, that association comes from radium-illuminated displays, where the green glow comes from the zinc sulphide phosphor, not the radium itself. By themselves, radioactive elements that glow do so mainly by either ionizing the air around them or producing Çerenkov radiation, both of which are blue glows.
one weird problem I've had with pro acryl, is that the paint splits almost as if it's hydrophobic when I apply it directly on a primed miniature. only when I have already a layer of paint under will it behave normally. not sure if this is because it gets thinned a bit from my wet palette and is supposed to be used unthinned? I just feel like it gets a bit thick and chalky if I don't thin it anyone else experienced this with their line? it is a shame cause the colors are really nice
I've seen some of their paints split on the wet palette, but that's easily fixed with a brush-mixing. Jason from Monument has said that yes, it's an issue with some of their paints on wet palettes due to their paints' chemistry. Never seen it happen while painting on a mini though, under any circumstances.
@@VinceVenturella hey Vince i have tried with both army painter and citadel. it looks like when you drop some water on a hydrophobic phone screen. the paint just splits into a lot of tiny drops and kinda retracts away. kind of gliding around on the top of the mini without sticking to the surface. it's super weird This doesn't happen with any of the other paint brands , so I guess it's something in the medium maybe? once I have a coat of paint on there is no problem, but it's so strange. it's only some colors as well. off the top of my head I remember the dark flesh tone doing it a lot
@@hulejul9748 Talked w/Monument about this. TL; DR: It is not you... it is usually the primer. :-/ I went through about... 8? 10?... different primers dealing with this (peeling, flaking, splitting drops, repelling) and stripping/re-priming half my army twice. So a few things that worked for me when all was said and done: (1) Wash your minis -- sounds stupid, but yes, wash them, plastic and all and keep gloves on between then and when you spray/paint the primer; (2) Use the PA primers or Vallejo line. For so many reasons I don't have 1000 words here to type, it appears the other primers don't want to play with PA paints. Free to try that out for yourself though -- many others have gotten them to work fine. Might be an airbrush v. rattle can v. brush-on thing. I only rattle & brush-on. (3) Don't over-thin the PA paint-- it is bottle-ready, so take from bottle and apply to model. If you put it on the wet pallet, you are likely going to draw it down and over-thin it and then you will exacerbate the issue further, so just be sure you aren't thinning by accident. They have a good medium to thin if you do actually want to glaze/wash with the paint. Good luck. And... email them if you are having a continuing issue!
@VinceVenturella that's interesting. I had just ordered the Warcolours set and was curious if I made the correct choice. Having a brighter pigment is what I would have choosen anyways. Thank you.
One struggle I’ve had is that Golden and Vallejo fluorescents come out really glossy in a way that takes away from the effect I’m usually going for (a glow or something). Sorry if I missed it in the video, but how did you find their finish?
Thanks for letting me know they're not supposed to cover well. I bought some and was like this covers like crap. lol. The only issue I have is with the purple, it is not very purple at all and is more like a hot pink.
Shake it better. It was doing the same to me. Open it, stir it, close it, shake it. Also, the purple is pretty light-- I had to use 3-4 coats, so instead I relegated it to my purple team and use it just as another purple...
Blue fluorescent paints are generally pretty bad. Vince has said this before on other videos, and Jason from Monument Hobbies has said the same thing. They couldn't find a blue fluorescent pigment that met their standards.
local store has started carrying Pro Acryl and they’re a massive hit. White and Black ALWAYS sold out. These flou look fantastic! I feel compelled to buy this range even though I have so many GW paints. Sometimes life is about doing what’s fun not what makes sense lol Vince: how do these compare to GSW flou which I believe you quite like?
I like them better, they are about equivalent to me with the hi-flow (though with different applications) and the golden hi flow are my favorites by far.
@@VinceVenturella Alright I'll check their one out. And yeah, it sucks I'm trying to find something to really make tyranid brain glow have that bright punch to it. Thanks!
I saw on another video (Massive Voodoo's channel maybe?) that something like ice yellow has some flouresecence. With that in mind, have you tried mixing flourescent yellow with a pale yellow for extea pop in skin tones?
13:57 I considered the Golden High Flow fluorescents the best on the market as well, until Arnau Lazaro put me on Amsterdam fluorescent inks. Having used both (although the Golden High Flow ones more) I can say that the Amsterdam inks are on par and maybe even a little better. That being said every paint range has it's standouts. Thus I prefer the Yellow and Orange from Golden and the Green and Rose (compared to the pink) from Amsterdam.
I think you missed a crucial test and that would be how they look under black light!! As a toy painter id use these for their glowing black light effect.
So I guess these arent what I'm looking for because apparently monument didn't focus on making them uv reactive, they're basically just to increase vibrancy
Here's a question I hope someone can answer. Considering fluorescent paints are transparent and vibrant, what is the difference between them and transparent, vibrant inks like liquitex, besides the initial consistency? I'm ignoring the glow in the dark effect as i don't really want them for that
The pgiment here is different than just a bright ink (unless you're talking the Fluorescent inks, then it's the same deal in both). That pigment not only glows but gives that intensity.
I never used fluorescent before these and holy crap they feel like magic. Nuln oil and agrax are liquid talent for shadows, these are liquid talent for OSL and glow effects
I haven't had time to give that sort of test obviously, but that is why I like them mixed into the roation with other paints to express the true colors.
@@VinceVenturella yeah, not sure if anyone has cracked that issue. I like fluorescent paint too and use it the same way, just annoyed with how it fades
@@scottm9605 Was reading about that actually... so far no paint company seems to have cracked it other than to use specific varnishes and to store it out of the light to prolong the fade.
Great review Vince! I had a couple of questions about using these. First, can they be mixed with regular acrylic paints to up the intensity? Second, how do they compare to artist inks (eg liquitex) in terms of intensity? Thanks again!
Hey Vince, I was wondering if you have any experience with ProAcryl leaving a texture when using the same techniques you normally would with other paint brands. It seems to be a really talked about topic in the monument hobby server and i ran into the issue 3 or 4 times now after sinking about $200 into the range and adoring the colors like paynes grey and bold pyrole red and all of their purples, if you have experience with this is there an easy way to adjust to them that doesn't require using different methods? I'm a big layerer/glazer and they seem to really act up when you get more into the glazing steps at times. Sorry for the semi off topic question, I love your content and respect your voice on pretty much anything hobby related so I figured I'd ask you directly since you use them in your workflow and don't seem to have this issue.
Sometimes if you work some of the colors really thin this can happen, one thing you can do is thin with medium instead of water, that will tend to prevent that.
@@VinceVenturella Thank you for your reply, would just standard matte or glaze medium do the trick? A lot of the colors i adore and the idea of texture popping up on a model i've been slaving over sort of worries me.
@@UguuYianKutKu I had this exact issue. Don't ever thin with water-- they are thin enough as is. Try not using a wet pallet for a while-- that also can help you from over-thinning. If you need to thin to glaze, then use their glazing medium-- it looks costly, but it works extremely well and you don't need much -- you can put it w/the paint in a little 1mL plastic cup with a lid and keep it for a while if you have extra. Also, you can always email Monument Hobbies customer service w/a photo of what you are experiencing and they may be able to help-- I have had nothing but phenomenal customer service from them when I have needed assistance.
Vince, mate. You missed a trick in this video. When you said 'lets see what they are capable of' that was your chance to sing us your theme tune! Lets get to the technique and learn it Vincey V style. I've been looking at the Pro-Acryl fluorescent paints, but I hardly use fluo paints. I don't enjoy how gel like they usually are. I might look into these, though. Cheers mate.
@@VinceVenturella after I placed my order, I asked about it and got back the following response: "The 10% discount codes for our Monumentals were previously one-time use, but as of this year, they've changed to 5% discounts that can be used multiple times." They did refund me the additional 5% for the confusion, so their customer support went above and beyond (since I had placed the order knowing the 5% discount was showing, they didn't really need to.)
They said they couldn't find a blue pigment to meet their quality standards. I guess they'd rather you buy someone else's sucky paint than sell a paint that they think is bad themselves.
I think that is just it, really; if you want the absolute most pop highlights, some fluorescent paint helps, particularly if you want to sell a particular intensity. Otherwise? Just good old contrast and colour theory can get you there.
Hopefully, this gave you some more ideas of how you can integrate them into your normal paints to punhc up your colors, not just have them stand alone.
I always like to keep a black light flashlight at my desk when I’m painting with fluorescent paints. Not for any practical reason, but because it’s fun to watch your model glow in the dark 😅
Just a quick note, in case you don't already know. Uv light is really bad for your eyes, so if you used the torch make sure you don't look into the torch itself - the Uv rays cause cataracts
@@YaBoiVD appreciate that! I use a flashlight so I’ll make sure not to look directly at it
I was expecting Larry the Ogre with fluorescent skin... too bad. Thanks for the review Vince, HC is really nice!
My shop just started to stock Pro Acryl after years of just Citadel and AP. These sold out nearly instantly. I'm so excited to get my hands on them
Same thing happened at two shops near me. Apparently the distributor alliance just started stocking them so it's now much easier to put them on the shelf
Hope your bank account feels the same way! Lol... they are so addicting.
Vince you are a blessing to this community. Thank you my ohio brother!
You bet, happy to be here!
Slaanesh buddy. That's a noise marine.
I really love this channel. Lots of great info for painters
That red cape trick was incredible! I have struggled a lot with red capes in the past and I never would have figured that trick out on my own
@@redscope897 florescents as highlights are weird sometimes on photos and seeing as I absolutely love doing this style of highlight (even though I'm admittedly not even close to getting as smooth a blend as Vince here is) it really does give this effect in person that just draws your eye.
I will say, it could also depend on your model's theme and your personal tastes. If you're more of a grimdark guy I would 100% agree that the first cape looks better. Personally, i love that variation on the same color and the exaggerated highlight the second style gives.
Good luck on your hobby journey y'all!
@@redscope897 You can also try a transparent from PA over the red cape... I sometimes find it gives the effect I think Vince was hinting at, but in a different way if you didn't like how the flouro turned out. The transparents are wild-- they can be used in so many different ways to fill a gap between your almost-finished and finished model. (Of course they have loads of other uses as well). The transparent white is its own journey... :)
Another excellent review of some miniature paints….very much appreciated and thanks for your time and superb efforts!
My pleasure!
One of the more Matt finish in flours I have ever used or seen. Several coats must be applied do get the desired effect(even over whites). they are a good additive to add to traditional paints to help rise brightness. Not as punchy as Golden, Daller Rowney, or AK. Possibly due to the Matt Medium used? I love Pro Achryl but these will sit on my shelf more often than my others. Great video and instruction on flours! Thanks!!
They are SUPER bright and punch when you put them on a miniature painted w/PA paints because the entire miniature is matte. I also did use the pink and green on a Citadel-painted miniature and it looked great. The purple I have found is actually just a really great deep contrast if you thin it a bit, or it can be used as a pop color with a purple themed miniature, but I honestly am not sure I would have put it in the box... one is not like the others...
Great video, had me looking for the set while watching was unable to find in the UK, but i did find Jons set so theres that but will keep searching, hear that Roman Laplatte uses florescent paint and now Vince is definitely a must get set.
Just tried the orange last night and loved the results. I plan to get the whole set when they're back in stock.
Hi Vince… Just bought this set so a much welcome video, planning to use them on the WH40k Avatar… thanks for doing this and all your other excellent UA-cam tutorials👍🏻
These videos are just great. So helpful. Thank you so much.
Just picked these up can't wait to try them out, love the pro acryl range in general
Glad to see this. I do wish that years ago I had better understood the crucial role of a well-chosen basecoat and multiple layers when working with fluorescents, as I had concluded based on my own experiments that they were just destined to be a disappointment in my model projects.
As you describe the characteristics and saying to myself “yep, uh huh, agreed, that’s true”. I feel the same way about them. The cape highlight = *chef’s kiss*
Ooo very comprehensive fluo set, gonna pick these up next I get the chance.
I look forward to getting them, great vid as always
I had a look online at my regular arts supplier - they carry Golden heavy body fluorescents. I might put one in my cart, next time I order.
Hey Vince
Just wondering if you would be interested in HC episode suggestion; the suggestion is
Tri-angulation IE
Using specific subtle shapes and painting techniques that draw the eye towards the center of the model, when the center of the model is the focus.
You're the man
Have a great day
I have these and I was surprised how much I've used them. I used them for glowing metal, eyes, and for plasma gun
I will get these whenever Newsh is back in stock. Cool tests but looking forward to seeing you use these for OSL. Thanks Vince!!!
You bet!
I used the florescent orange layered over the standard pro acryl orange on my crypteks, and man do they pop.
Amazing, thanks. Just yesterday i was thinking about buying them. Now i definitely will. ❤
Glad I could help!
How about follow up video on the PA transparents. Or just transparent paints in general? I know Vallejo used to make them, but I now see it’s not in the Model Color range anymore.
I have the Golden Fluorescents, but given Monument's awesome reputation (and your review), I plan on picking up the Pro Acryl Fluorescents to add additional variety and a better tool for specific applications.
I also note on Monument's site they have a "Texture Trainer" model. This seems like an excellent idea! I'd love to see you consider doing this to showcase how you perform different textures all on the same model.
Thanks Vince!
now i wanna try that white -> fluo pink -> fluo red method with that "many little scratchy highlights to emulate cloth texture" technique you showed of in (at least) one of your previous HC videos, my cloaks and tabards really came to live since I started incorporating that one into my repertoire. i'd probably try something like ice yellow before going to gray/white before the fluo steps, or would you say the yellow tint could throw off the end result?
I think that could definitely work!
Thanks Vince
I've been painting my tyranids with both bold colors and finishing with fluorescent paints to make them just wild. It's been a really fun experience. The colors are amazing, and the poor coverage of the fluorescent paints make them really easy to blend!
I could see the childlike excitement when you talked about how perfect the greem was for Skaven stuff.
I really found use out of Monuments new Transparent white color with these flourescent new colors. It wasnt in the original set.
I am not great at OSL but this was kind of a cheat for me. Any plans to include that Transparent White from Monument in any future videos?
I friggin love their transparent white. One of my most used bottles.
@@questgivercyradis8462 I find myself reaching for it nonstop, especially when airbrushing, It truly is a cheat.
@@questgivercyradis8462 SHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH. For real. Otherwise it's going to sell out and be out all the time.
Thanks for posting this. I’ve been looking at Monument fluorescents vs. the Golden high flow for a fire effect. I think you answered both of my questions as I wanted to know which would airbrush best, thanks!
Would be awesome if you made a follow up video that specifically focuses around using these paints for stuff like glowing eyes and OSL effects under a blacklight.
Could be cool, but that would limit how you could use those fluorescents as very punchy highlights. Because fluorescents literally fluoresce aka glow under a UV/blacklight, you would have to save the fluorescents for only the source, and balancing that against the glow on the object (the rest of the mini) would be difficult.
Exactly! It would be interesting to see how the best of the best attempts to pull it off. Even mixing different colors of fluoresent paint can diminish the effect. The trick would probably have to be do all the shading and highlighting underneath and almost treat the fluorescent as a UV reactive glaze. Try and pull off the juggling act between looking good and getting some punch while under normal light but then cranking it that notch higher when the model is under UV. @@MrSJPowell
I'm not generally interested in anything under the black light or similar, I just don't think it looks interesting or compelling. That being said, doing some more videos on glowing eyes and similar will certainly happen.
Cool🖌 Thank you for this review.
Glad you liked it!
Been waiting for this one! Thanks Vince!
Was waiting for your review about these paints
Thanks for this Vince!
Great stuff friend 👏 👍
About time to talk about theses paints.
That yellow would be perfect for doing highlights for fire, like one of the models in the CSM Legionaires Kill Team box, as a chartreuse Felfire (Warcraft) style in conjunction with Tesseract Glow. Based on what you've said, rebasing the highlight areas before applying
I have found the yellow to be a bit less pigmented (surprise! it's yellow!) than the others, so just keep that in mind-- might need an extra coat of it, or you can use another trick which is to put it over a yellow base rather than a white base... that's worked well too. Just have to play around w/them a lot and see what effect you like best with them. The green has an incredible breadth and depth of usability -- both for what it can do & what other colors it can work with.
New subscriber. Loved the video. I will have to try this when they are back in stock.
Awesome! Thank you! Happy to have you along on the hobby journey!
Love the videos I'm very curious what your recipe is for OSL fire effects are with fluorescent paints through an airbrush. I typically use the contrast paint range badmoon yellow, magmadroth flame, baal red. How much more punch would get out of a fluorescent paint pallet?
Depends on the particulars of the OSL are, but generally, just different shades of Oranges, Browns and Yellows. I have some videos where I am doing OSL and you will see that in play, as well as just fire in general.
You rock vince!
I find it quite useful that these fluorescent are slightly different hue from that of golden high flow.
I’ve been waiting for this! 🎉🎉🎉
would be curious of your opinion on using inks (liquitex, daler rowny, etc) for high-pigmentation covering vs paint (insert brand, not sure if it matters). my experience has been that they can be mixed with acrylic paints and can add some extra punch to the color. they also seem to work nicely as translucent shading.
I like Daler Rowney.
Perfect video before I man handle 2k of Votann and way over selling some osl! Glowing review as always!
So my question is, do they actually still glow under black light? I know they wanted to focus on color vibrancy in normal light (which is appreciated) but I am curious how much they differ from, say, Golden when it comes to black light glow.
I can't compare to Golden as I don't have those, but they definitely glow under black light.
what do flourescents do when mixed into similar colors? will they brighten things ? or is their effect lost in the thicker paint?
Yep, they will brighten them up as well.
Something to note for those who are looking to get these paints for purposes of how they will look under a black light: they may not fluoresce the way you expect. Monument Hobbies focused their formulation of these paints to look best under normal lighting, appearance under black lighting wasn't their goal. This is per their comments on their UA-cam video announcing the release of these paints.
Nice video! havn't tested Pro Acryl ones yet!
I'v been a big fan of Flourescent paints for the last 2 years, especially for OSL effects! But also like you did highlighting Red or Purples, since you can't go too LIGHT with red / Purple without it becomming pinkish or orange.
Just too bad there are no good BLUE flourescent paints, doesn't work well it seems.
Recently used some Vallejo fluorescent green for a model and so my first question when I clicked on the video was are these as gummy as Vallejo fluorescent. Great review. I'll have to keep these on my radar.
They are definitely not as gummy. That one was a nightmare to use. You can also just buy the PA green separately now (I believe?) and try it to test to see if it does what you need it to do.
Vince and morning coffee. Nice!👌
How does the dry color compare to the wet color? Not 10-20 minutes later but overnight. My golden paints frequently, but not always, lose that "punch" after drying overnight.
Haven't noticed any big difference over time.
Curious to know if you have tried the Golden SoFlat Fluorescents? I have only got the Green but it is so good for coverage and colour.
Haven't tried them yet.
What was your airbrush flow improver solution dilution ratio for these paints?
Standard 80/20 Thinner/Flow Improver from Vallejo.
I really like the Golden High Flow fluos.
Has any1 tried Golden Soflat Fluorescents with a brush?
I have used many of the golden so flats with a brush, never had an issue.
unfortunately I found these too late as I got the vallejo game color flou set before I was aware these had come out. These look good though and I have been purchasing some pro acryl paints as of late to replace my Citadel paints as I use them up and really enjoy the quality and price
I wonder why no blue in that set. That would make it complete. I've never used fluro paints, but might give them a shot after seeing this.
It's a bit disappointing, too; while I don't want to say that it's _wrong_ to use the fluorescent green for radiation glow, that association comes from radium-illuminated displays, where the green glow comes from the zinc sulphide phosphor, not the radium itself. By themselves, radioactive elements that glow do so mainly by either ionizing the air around them or producing Çerenkov radiation, both of which are blue glows.
There's no golden hi flow fluro red is there? Or am i just not finding it?
There is not
one weird problem I've had with pro acryl, is that the paint splits almost as if it's hydrophobic when I apply it directly on a primed miniature.
only when I have already a layer of paint under will it behave normally.
not sure if this is because it gets thinned a bit from my wet palette and is supposed to be used unthinned? I just feel like it gets a bit thick and chalky if I don't thin it
anyone else experienced this with their line? it is a shame cause the colors are really nice
I've seen some of their paints split on the wet palette, but that's easily fixed with a brush-mixing. Jason from Monument has said that yes, it's an issue with some of their paints on wet palettes due to their paints' chemistry.
Never seen it happen while painting on a mini though, under any circumstances.
Haven't had that happen, what primer are you using?
@@VinceVenturella hey Vince
i have tried with both army painter and citadel.
it looks like when you drop some water on a hydrophobic phone screen. the paint just splits into a lot of tiny drops and kinda retracts away. kind of gliding around on the top of the mini without sticking to the surface. it's super weird
This doesn't happen with any of the other paint brands , so I guess it's something in the medium maybe? once I have a coat of paint on there is no problem, but it's so strange.
it's only some colors as well. off the top of my head I remember the dark flesh tone doing it a lot
@@hulejul9748 Talked w/Monument about this. TL; DR: It is not you... it is usually the primer. :-/ I went through about... 8? 10?... different primers dealing with this (peeling, flaking, splitting drops, repelling) and stripping/re-priming half my army twice. So a few things that worked for me when all was said and done: (1) Wash your minis -- sounds stupid, but yes, wash them, plastic and all and keep gloves on between then and when you spray/paint the primer; (2) Use the PA primers or Vallejo line. For so many reasons I don't have 1000 words here to type, it appears the other primers don't want to play with PA paints. Free to try that out for yourself though -- many others have gotten them to work fine. Might be an airbrush v. rattle can v. brush-on thing. I only rattle & brush-on. (3) Don't over-thin the PA paint-- it is bottle-ready, so take from bottle and apply to model. If you put it on the wet pallet, you are likely going to draw it down and over-thin it and then you will exacerbate the issue further, so just be sure you aren't thinning by accident. They have a good medium to thin if you do actually want to glaze/wash with the paint. Good luck. And... email them if you are having a continuing issue!
What about Warcolour flourscents? Where would you rank them among these?
The Warcolours are a little brighter but a little harder to work with. The gel medium makes them tougher.
@VinceVenturella that's interesting. I had just ordered the Warcolours set and was curious if I made the correct choice. Having a brighter pigment is what I would have choosen anyways. Thank you.
One struggle I’ve had is that Golden and Vallejo fluorescents come out really glossy in a way that takes away from the effect I’m usually going for (a glow or something). Sorry if I missed it in the video, but how did you find their finish?
These were fairly matte once dry.
Have you tried the ak interactiv wargame liquid pigments neo pink, works amazing for fluo pinwashing
I'll have to give them a try!
Many thanks for the video, very informative. But do they actually fluoresce under UV light in the dark?
They will yes
are there mediums we should AVOID using with these fluorescents?
Not really, anything can work.
Thanks for letting me know they're not supposed to cover well. I bought some and was like this covers like crap. lol. The only issue I have is with the purple, it is not very purple at all and is more like a hot pink.
Shake it better. It was doing the same to me. Open it, stir it, close it, shake it. Also, the purple is pretty light-- I had to use 3-4 coats, so instead I relegated it to my purple team and use it just as another purple...
Interested to know why no blue? Sorry if you’ve covered this, still watching. I love love love pink Fluorescent paint.
Blue fluorescent paints are generally pretty bad. Vince has said this before on other videos, and Jason from Monument Hobbies has said the same thing. They couldn't find a blue fluorescent pigment that met their standards.
Interesting thanks! @@jasonreid9267
Can I drybrush those paints???
Yes indeed!
what is a shar truce?
Chartreuse - Color, I have a video on it here - ua-cam.com/video/dRuxAwIL3w4/v-deo.html&pp=gAQBiAQB
@VinceVenturella Love your work. I went to buy some Pro Acryl with your link and it is not giving the full 10% discount.
Not sure on that, you may want to email Monument.
Yellow being a bit green seems disappointing. What yellow fluro would you recommend?
Honestly, almost all of them are that sort of chartreuse color. I tend to use a thin orange over bright white to get a good yellow.
local store has started carrying Pro Acryl and they’re a massive hit. White and Black ALWAYS sold out. These flou look fantastic! I feel compelled to buy this range even though I have so many GW paints. Sometimes life is about doing what’s fun not what makes sense lol
Vince: how do these compare to GSW flou which I believe you quite like?
I like them better, they are about equivalent to me with the hi-flow (though with different applications) and the golden hi flow are my favorites by far.
What would you recommend as a good fluorescent blue? Since monument hobbies doesn't have a fluorescent blue?
HUGE miniatures makes a pretty decent one, but FX blue in general is underwhelming
@@VinceVenturella Alright I'll check their one out. And yeah, it sucks I'm trying to find something to really make tyranid brain glow have that bright punch to it. Thanks!
I saw on another video (Massive Voodoo's channel maybe?) that something like ice yellow has some flouresecence. With that in mind, have you tried mixing flourescent yellow with a pale yellow for extea pop in skin tones?
Not tried yet, could be something there for sure.
That red cape was so intense your camera was wasn’t happy with it
Thanks for the video on these, Vince! Any thoughts on how they compare to the new Vallejo Game Colour fluorescents?
Haven't tried the new VGCs, I'll have to give them a try.
13:57 I considered the Golden High Flow fluorescents the best on the market as well, until Arnau Lazaro put me on Amsterdam fluorescent inks. Having used both (although the Golden High Flow ones more) I can say that the Amsterdam inks are on par and maybe even a little better. That being said every paint range has it's standouts. Thus I prefer the Yellow and Orange from Golden and the Green and Rose (compared to the pink) from Amsterdam.
You find a blue that you like yet?
@@thinkabouthelogic I am sorry to say that there is no good fluorescent blue's on the market. I suspect the mica needed doesn't exist (yet).
I see new Pro Acryl, I buy new Pro Acryl.
ha ha ^^ this
do they glow under black light?
Yep
I think you missed a crucial test and that would be how they look under black light!! As a toy painter id use these for their glowing black light effect.
So I guess these arent what I'm looking for because apparently monument didn't focus on making them uv reactive, they're basically just to increase vibrancy
Here's a question I hope someone can answer. Considering fluorescent paints are transparent and vibrant, what is the difference between them and transparent, vibrant inks like liquitex, besides the initial consistency? I'm ignoring the glow in the dark effect as i don't really want them for that
The pgiment here is different than just a bright ink (unless you're talking the Fluorescent inks, then it's the same deal in both). That pigment not only glows but gives that intensity.
Thanks for the answer! I'll have to give them a try!
Hey Vince, how do varnishes interact with these paints? Specifically matte? Would it dial down the intensity?
These dry fairly matte, but I didn't see a huge change after varnish.
@@VinceVenturella thanks Vince
I never used fluorescent before these and holy crap they feel like magic. Nuln oil and agrax are liquid talent for shadows, these are liquid talent for OSL and glow effects
IMO you can't have nightvision goggles without a generous application of fluoro green
Nice
The biggest issue with flourescent paint is the fugitive nature of the pigment. Looks good for a while fades over a couple years.
I haven't had time to give that sort of test obviously, but that is why I like them mixed into the roation with other paints to express the true colors.
@@VinceVenturella yeah, not sure if anyone has cracked that issue. I like fluorescent paint too and use it the same way, just annoyed with how it fades
@@scottm9605 Was reading about that actually... so far no paint company seems to have cracked it other than to use specific varnishes and to store it out of the light to prolong the fade.
@@thinkabouthelogic I've heard of doing that but then you have a cool mini you spent hours painting that you can't look at 😂
@@scottm9605 Oh... you mean you paint them to actually... look at and/or play with? Nuts. ;-)
Great review Vince! I had a couple of questions about using these. First, can they be mixed with regular acrylic paints to up the intensity? Second, how do they compare to artist inks (eg liquitex) in terms of intensity? Thanks again!
1) Yes, no issues there. 2) I haven't used Liquitex, but they are a little less intense than something like the hi-flow, but not by much.
Great stuff, thanks Vince!
Hey Vince, any plans on reviewing the new ak interactive inks?
I am sure at some point I will get around to them. :)
Hey Vince, I was wondering if you have any experience with ProAcryl leaving a texture when using the same techniques you normally would with other paint brands. It seems to be a really talked about topic in the monument hobby server and i ran into the issue 3 or 4 times now after sinking about $200 into the range and adoring the colors like paynes grey and bold pyrole red and all of their purples, if you have experience with this is there an easy way to adjust to them that doesn't require using different methods? I'm a big layerer/glazer and they seem to really act up when you get more into the glazing steps at times. Sorry for the semi off topic question, I love your content and respect your voice on pretty much anything hobby related so I figured I'd ask you directly since you use them in your workflow and don't seem to have this issue.
Sometimes if you work some of the colors really thin this can happen, one thing you can do is thin with medium instead of water, that will tend to prevent that.
@@VinceVenturella Thank you for your reply, would just standard matte or glaze medium do the trick? A lot of the colors i adore and the idea of texture popping up on a model i've been slaving over sort of worries me.
@@UguuYianKutKu I had this exact issue. Don't ever thin with water-- they are thin enough as is. Try not using a wet pallet for a while-- that also can help you from over-thinning. If you need to thin to glaze, then use their glazing medium-- it looks costly, but it works extremely well and you don't need much -- you can put it w/the paint in a little 1mL plastic cup with a lid and keep it for a while if you have extra. Also, you can always email Monument Hobbies customer service w/a photo of what you are experiencing and they may be able to help-- I have had nothing but phenomenal customer service from them when I have needed assistance.
Vince, mate. You missed a trick in this video. When you said 'lets see what they are capable of' that was your chance to sing us your theme tune! Lets get to the technique and learn it Vincey V style.
I've been looking at the Pro-Acryl fluorescent paints, but I hardly use fluo paints. I don't enjoy how gel like they usually are. I might look into these, though. Cheers mate.
Hey Vince, Do you know if your monument code has changed discount at all? I applied it to my order, and only got 5% off instead of 10%.
Strange, I have no idea, I don't know of a change, but I will check into it.
@@VinceVenturella after I placed my order, I asked about it and got back the following response:
"The 10% discount codes for our Monumentals were previously one-time use, but as of this year, they've changed to 5% discounts that can be used multiple times."
They did refund me the additional 5% for the confusion, so their customer support went above and beyond (since I had placed the order knowing the 5% discount was showing, they didn't really need to.)
Ah a Classic Tzeentch noise marine 🤣
👍👍
When using Flour paints lay down white First
i miss a light blue
😊
I know floruo blue always sucks, but im suprised to see it not in their flouro lineup.
They said they couldn't find a blue pigment to meet their quality standards. I guess they'd rather you buy someone else's sucky paint than sell a paint that they think is bad themselves.
Dammit Vince, stop reading my mind and doing reviews on stuff right after I buy them.
One day Vince, you should just do something that actually ruins a model and see if we are paying attention.
Always torn on fluorescent paints… while I love bright colors, I still feel like that are gimmicky
I think that is just it, really; if you want the absolute most pop highlights, some fluorescent paint helps, particularly if you want to sell a particular intensity. Otherwise? Just good old contrast and colour theory can get you there.
Hopefully, this gave you some more ideas of how you can integrate them into your normal paints to punhc up your colors, not just have them stand alone.
Vince youre a fucking badass