seriously, I know lol I decided to be a pioneer when I was researching this frame last year. I feel like the only other person who started a build log was KramerFPV? Did you find anybody else interesting that I might've overlooked?
@LifeofAccro No. I saw KremerFPV's video, but he never built a full drone. Just the frame. I saw your video a while ago and waited for your video, but it never came. Then i saw it today on my "for you" page. (Around 5 months later)
haha yeah i def dragged my feet long time to post. Will do an "update" next month on whats changed, whats working (or not). if you dont have a 7-8" yet id probably say start there first... LOVE my AOS 7, half temtped to see what would happen (future thought) if i slap all these components on an AOS UL 9/10 🤔 I guess i like putting $$ in a blender sometimes 😆
@@LifeofAccro I started with a 5 inch. I am currently saving some money for a tiny whoop, to fly in the winter phase in my country. But after that i want to build a cinelifter or a 9/10 inch drone. I am not sure which of that
Great job on the build! But i have two tipps, first off use flux (or more flux) when soldering. Your solder joints look pretty good, but if you just put a bit of flux on the joints just before you do the final pass with the iron they will get more unifiorm and shiny. And the part you were trying to figure out at 41:30 is supposed to mount on the bottom side and give more impact resistence in crashes. Loved the video, keep on building :D Ist just more fun than a BNF
yeah ive been playing with flux since this build, def does seem to help control the solder and make more consistent mounds, just wish is wasnt sticky and get all over haha
Nice build. Something I've been doing instead of using a GPS mate is to simply keep a small USB battery charger with me. It works by powering the 5v rail of the flight controller, which powers the gps AND the ELRS module in my case. That way, I just watch the inav Lua script on my radios screen until I get sufficient satalites. Then I just unplug the power bank and fly. I do have some flight controllers where the gps 5v pads wouldn't get power when connected via USB, so i simply re-ran the power leads on those, to the same pads that the elrs module was soldered to and that has worked great.
Yeah, that's also a good option. But they're fairly cheap, and I also like that it has a beeper built-in in case I crash and need to go retrieve it. It doesn't happen very often, but it does, for me, lol once in a rare while and it's nice to have a beeper that works after the battery is dead.
I was curious if there would be a way I could send you a private message. I’m looking to pick up this frame and just had some questions with things if we could chat that would be great thank you.
Nice! thanks for watching, i see yur stuf in my feed occasionally... im keeping a soft eye on the 5" lumeniere johnny fpv frame vid you did a while back.....when ever i get back to 5" building land lol
Hello brother, I have watched a few of your videos. You have made very nice videos and have presented some scientific information. I liked it very much. Go ahead. I am by your side, Inshallah.
Just a nice thought, add a mag on there as well, bf just released a new feature allowing gps rescue to be wayyyyy better, almost like a camera drone. Chris Thompson is in my drone club and he showed it last Raceday and it was very cool, even wind can’t blow it away. Another thought is to add a AirTag as if u lost all battery, u could use the AirTag to recover the remains
its a geprc issue, as mentioned when i cut the wires to the compass it landed fine.. switched to a foxeer and tested an iflight gps and all landing works perfect
10inch frames recomended motor size is the 3115 900kv to 920kv motor 6s any motor in a higher kv req a higher amm esc as u found out used error cost alot
I think it was because of your election on 3115 BLDC motors, checking the specs sheet, looks like on 6S bateries, they draw 41A for 900KV version but up to 58A on 1050KV version
Watching this has got me itching to build a 10". Curious, what kind of Li ion battery do you fly? Looking around trying to narrow down best candidates for it
That 250mm power line to esc is not recommended, power to esc should be as short as possible, power to motors can be long, this can explain your esc burning, you can mitigate long power to esc with adding alot more capacitance but not sure how much, maybe consider taking the power connected to the side or front
Hi, have an idea for my own type of drone but will need to start from scratch watch the video on your build the drone two questions could you tell me the set up you used with the items bought? Can it be linked to the computer and reprogram the RPM accordingly on each motor? And second question, can you also add Accordingly, two extra motors could you advise will be looking into this project and starting on it after Christmas just new to this but have something in mind I want to try thank you. Look forward to your reply John.
I don't understand completely what you're asking, but there's a part list in the description for this build, and obviously the Video walks you through every step of assembly. The RPM of the motor is set based on the motor you purchase and cannot be changed after the fact, so buy one with an appropriate KV that you prefer. Yes, it can be hooked up to the computer and you can use beta flight to tune the quad, and a couple other programs, but that's the main one. If you wanted a quad with six or eight motors, yes that is an option as well and you just need an ESC/flight controller that supports multiple motors
so IYHO is SpeedyBee not reliable? I think you said that without coming right out and saying it. Gotcha. I may go SkyStar also, have their motors now. New subscriber btw.
for a 10" no. they even directly said they dont recommend it for a 10"... for my 7" its been perfect and i only have the 50a version and now they have a 60a which is their new base ESC. i do recommend them still and I'm getting both their new AIO and a 60a ESC here soon to test and do build with. just with a 10" i underestimated is power draw capabilities and tried to go budget in certain areas and shouldnt have. skystars has been solid so far, but the 16mb black box is kind of lame and no BT connectivity like SB...so either get a SB BT module or i thought i read SS had a BT capable stack so maybe theres that.
speedybee? no....the skystars stack tho...so far so good BUT...i did have to recalibrate the voltage regulator and still fine tuning the amp meter which annoys me it wasnt 10/10 out of the box and i want accurate OSD readings on amp draw and mah usage...
10" drones are super efficient, usually pulling no more than 10amps on a hoover on 6s battery. I have high doubts that xt90 can benefit a 10" any more than what an xt60 can.
@jorgec5335 seems you haven't dared to push your 10 inch into freestyle. I like to test my manouverability and catching dives on heavy battery loads. My 10 inch has 3215 motors and they draw 230A total on full throttle. Xt60 start to melt at over 200A current. 180A is still fine for 3 seconds. Ask me how I know. But yeah, if you're just cruising you'll never need more than xt60. Let me guess you're flying something like the helion10 with 3110 motors on 10 inch. Those motors are efficient, but they often have jello problems, because they are actually too small for 10 inch props.
I put an XT 90 on initially because people were saying what you were saying, but it was kind of bulky and I switched back to X6. I never had any issues issues with the power leads or the connector being being hot even after some light freestyle. The only time I was having heat issues with the power leads and connector was when I was troubleshooting the SpeedyBee ESC issue as well. Both the leads and the connector were very hot for a flight that was under 60 seconds and was basically just cruising around… Which was another indicator it was the ESC in my opinion. But when I do medium freestyle and never comes back hot so for right now I think we're good.
@@chrisbee5481 I do basic freestyle maneuvers; powerloops, dives, juicy flicks, rubix cubes and what not nothing that will make the drone crash. I stick to long range as that gets my adrenaline pushing more than anything. I'm flying a hglrc rekon 10, with a hobbywing 60a 4 in 1, 3315 900kv axis flying motors.
i knew i was missing something. updated in the description as well a blurb about the motors. I had an issue with one initially that was replaced by GetFPV, and then later on in the build, they kind of sounded wonky so they sent me another three without issue. In retrospect, I'm not sure if it was actually a motor issue, or the SpeedyBee stack as mentioned. I was just trying to save a few bucks and since they were branded, Johnny FPV said I'd give them a try, they fly fine and they're smooth, but I've also never had any issues with the Brother hobby avengers on my, as well as Luminere... Only a few bucks more per motor...
You're doing a fantastic job! I need some advice: I have a SafePal wallet with USDT, and I have the seed phrase. (alarm fetch churn bridge exercise tape speak race clerk couch crater letter). What's the best way to send them to Binance?
I've also been building and trying out 6,7,8 and 10 inch quads. After flying them back to back, I see no advantage of the 10 inch over the 7 and 8 inch. The flight time is no longer and doesn't perform any better. Actually it's much less efficient than my 7 inch. But obviously you can carry higher loads, which means bigger batteries. So only with bigger batteries do I get similar good flight times as my 7 inch. All in all it's just bigger, more expensive and dangerous. No real benefit unless you really want to make use of carrying high loads like they do in Ukraine. Thats why manufacturers are all making 10 inch right now
@jorgec5335 give me some figures please. What flight times are you getting? I get 24 minutes on 6s2p 18650 5600mah on my 7 inch. Same battery on my 10 inch gets me only 16 minutes. If I pack 6s3p 21700 on my 10 inch, I get 30 minutes. My 7 inch can't handle that weight well. All flight times are compared at similar speeds traveling at 60kph average.
@chrisbee5481 from my experience flying 7,8,9,10 I have the same thoughts. I’m doing mostly mountain surfing and for me 7,8 is the best. With 10 inch I get the same fly time as 7inch but my cruising speed on 10inch is 110km/h
@@chrisbee5481 I'm using 6s2p 9ah 21700; molicell p45b 4.5ah rated for 45amps. Average 25-30 mins on 7 inch on a cruise long range flight, with aggressive flying 10% of the flight. With the same pack on a 10" long range I'm averaging 40-45 mins with similar flying. I don't know what cells you're using but your cell C rating affects your efficiency very much so.
When i bought it there wasn't anything that was interesting enough to me. Now AOS has all their designs up at a comparable price, in retrospect now I'd probably get an AOS 10 since i love his desgins and my AOS UL7... but apples to apples even if i had an AOS 10 im not sure if the 10 would be more efficient than my 7...TBD
i searched so long to find a build video with this frame. Finally i found one!!! :D
seriously, I know lol I decided to be a pioneer when I was researching this frame last year. I feel like the only other person who started a build log was KramerFPV? Did you find anybody else interesting that I might've overlooked?
@LifeofAccro No. I saw KremerFPV's video, but he never built a full drone. Just the frame. I saw your video a while ago and waited for your video, but it never came. Then i saw it today on my "for you" page. (Around 5 months later)
haha yeah i def dragged my feet long time to post. Will do an "update" next month on whats changed, whats working (or not). if you dont have a 7-8" yet id probably say start there first... LOVE my AOS 7, half temtped to see what would happen (future thought) if i slap all these components on an AOS UL 9/10 🤔 I guess i like putting $$ in a blender sometimes 😆
@@LifeofAccro I started with a 5 inch. I am currently saving some money for a tiny whoop, to fly in the winter phase in my country. But after that i want to build a cinelifter or a 9/10 inch drone. I am not sure which of that
Great job on the build! But i have two tipps, first off use flux (or more flux) when soldering.
Your solder joints look pretty good, but if you just put a bit of flux on the joints just before you do the final pass with the iron they will get more unifiorm and shiny.
And the part you were trying to figure out at 41:30 is supposed to mount on the bottom side and give more impact resistence in crashes.
Loved the video, keep on building :D Ist just more fun than a BNF
yeah ive been playing with flux since this build, def does seem to help control the solder and make more consistent mounds, just wish is wasnt sticky and get all over haha
Nice build. Something I've been doing instead of using a GPS mate is to simply keep a small USB battery charger with me. It works by powering the 5v rail of the flight controller, which powers the gps AND the ELRS module in my case. That way, I just watch the inav Lua script on my radios screen until I get sufficient satalites. Then I just unplug the power bank and fly. I do have some flight controllers where the gps 5v pads wouldn't get power when connected via USB, so i simply re-ran the power leads on those, to the same pads that the elrs module was soldered to and that has worked great.
Yeah, that's also a good option. But they're fairly cheap, and I also like that it has a beeper built-in in case I crash and need to go retrieve it. It doesn't happen very often, but it does, for me, lol once in a rare while and it's nice to have a beeper that works after the battery is dead.
I was curious if there would be a way I could send you a private message. I’m looking to pick up this frame and just had some questions with things if we could chat that would be great thank you.
Really enjoyed your build log, I'm watching it as I build in a FlyfishRC Volador VD6 and it's nice get the benefit of your experience 👍
Nice! thanks for watching, i see yur stuf in my feed occasionally... im keeping a soft eye on the 5" lumeniere johnny fpv frame vid you did a while back.....when ever i get back to 5" building land lol
GREAT AND NICE BUILD BROTHER❤❤❤
thx friend!
The new GEPRC Mamoda 2 Antennas are fantastic with these.
ill have to givr those a look!
Beautiful ! 🎉
Glad you liked it! 😄
Sick build
thx! still some kinks to be worked out but fun to fly!
Hello brother, I have watched a few of your videos. You have made very nice videos and have presented some scientific information. I liked it very much. Go ahead. I am by your side, Inshallah.
Thank you so much for the support, it means a lot!
Just a nice thought, add a mag on there as well, bf just released a new feature allowing gps rescue to be wayyyyy better, almost like a camera drone. Chris Thompson is in my drone club and he showed it last Raceday and it was very cool, even wind can’t blow it away. Another thought is to add a AirTag as if u lost all battery, u could use the AirTag to recover the remains
its a geprc issue, as mentioned when i cut the wires to the compass it landed fine.. switched to a foxeer and tested an iflight gps and all landing works perfect
10inch frames recomended motor size is the 3115 900kv to 920kv motor 6s any motor in a higher kv req a higher amm esc as u found out used error cost alot
I think it was because of your election on 3115 BLDC motors, checking the specs sheet, looks like on 6S bateries, they draw 41A for 900KV version but up to 58A on 1050KV version
Watching this has got me itching to build a 10".
Curious, what kind of Li ion battery do you fly? Looking around trying to narrow down best candidates for it
watch my other video here: ua-cam.com/video/TrS8go_kJYw/v-deo.html
this will tell you everything you need to know ;)
BlueJay Blows those ESCs up. I bet you found that out already 😂
Nice build ! have you considered to set up 24 PWM or even lower (if your Esc support that) 😊
yeah its on 24k currently!
That 250mm power line to esc is not recommended, power to esc should be as short as possible, power to motors can be long, this can explain your esc burning, you can mitigate long power to esc with adding alot more capacitance but not sure how much, maybe consider taking the power connected to the side or front
Hi, have an idea for my own type of drone but will need to start from scratch watch the video on your build the drone two questions could you tell me the set up you used with the items bought? Can it be linked to the computer and reprogram the RPM accordingly on each motor? And second question, can you also add Accordingly, two extra motors could you advise will be looking into this project and starting on it after Christmas just new to this but have something in mind I want to try thank you. Look forward to your reply John.
I don't understand completely what you're asking, but there's a part list in the description for this build, and obviously the Video walks you through every step of assembly.
The RPM of the motor is set based on the motor you purchase and cannot be changed after the fact, so buy one with an appropriate KV that you prefer.
Yes, it can be hooked up to the computer and you can use beta flight to tune the quad, and a couple other programs, but that's the main one.
If you wanted a quad with six or eight motors, yes that is an option as well and you just need an ESC/flight controller that supports multiple motors
so IYHO is SpeedyBee not reliable? I think you said that without coming right out and saying it. Gotcha. I may go SkyStar also, have their motors now. New subscriber btw.
for a 10" no. they even directly said they dont recommend it for a 10"... for my 7" its been perfect and i only have the 50a version and now they have a 60a which is their new base ESC. i do recommend them still and I'm getting both their new AIO and a 60a ESC here soon to test and do build with.
just with a 10" i underestimated is power draw capabilities and tried to go budget in certain areas and shouldnt have. skystars has been solid so far, but the 16mb black box is kind of lame and no BT connectivity like SB...so either get a SB BT module or i thought i read SS had a BT capable stack so maybe theres that.
so did you have luck with this stack and 50 amps ?
speedybee? no....the skystars stack tho...so far so good BUT...i did have to recalibrate the voltage regulator and still fine tuning the amp meter which annoys me it wasnt 10/10 out of the box and i want accurate OSD readings on amp draw and mah usage...
What is your maximum amp draw on full throttle? I'm wondering you're still using xt60 on this.
10" drones are super efficient, usually pulling no more than 10amps on a hoover on 6s battery. I have high doubts that xt90 can benefit a 10" any more than what an xt60 can.
@jorgec5335 seems you haven't dared to push your 10 inch into freestyle. I like to test my manouverability and catching dives on heavy battery loads.
My 10 inch has 3215 motors and they draw 230A total on full throttle. Xt60 start to melt at over 200A current.
180A is still fine for 3 seconds. Ask me how I know. But yeah, if you're just cruising you'll never need more than xt60.
Let me guess you're flying something like the helion10 with 3110 motors on 10 inch.
Those motors are efficient, but they often have jello problems, because they are actually too small for 10 inch props.
I put an XT 90 on initially because people were saying what you were saying, but it was kind of bulky and I switched back to X6. I never had any issues issues with the power leads or the connector being being hot even after some light freestyle.
The only time I was having heat issues with the power leads and connector was when I was troubleshooting the SpeedyBee ESC issue as well. Both the leads and the connector were very hot for a flight that was under 60 seconds and was basically just cruising around… Which was another indicator it was the ESC in my opinion.
But when I do medium freestyle and never comes back hot so for right now I think we're good.
@@chrisbee5481 I do basic freestyle maneuvers; powerloops, dives, juicy flicks, rubix cubes and what not nothing that will make the drone crash. I stick to long range as that gets my adrenaline pushing more than anything. I'm flying a hglrc rekon 10, with a hobbywing 60a 4 in 1, 3315 900kv axis flying motors.
any link to motors?
i knew i was missing something. updated in the description as well a blurb about the motors. I had an issue with one initially that was replaced by GetFPV, and then later on in the build, they kind of sounded wonky so they sent me another three without issue. In retrospect, I'm not sure if it was actually a motor issue, or the SpeedyBee stack as mentioned. I was just trying to save a few bucks and since they were branded, Johnny FPV said I'd give them a try, they fly fine and they're smooth, but I've also never had any issues with the Brother hobby avengers on my, as well as Luminere... Only a few bucks more per motor...
p.s. your solder joints are cold.
You're doing a fantastic job! I need some advice: I have a SafePal wallet with USDT, and I have the seed phrase. (alarm fetch churn bridge exercise tape speak race clerk couch crater letter). What's the best way to send them to Binance?
I've also been building and trying out 6,7,8 and 10 inch quads. After flying them back to back, I see no advantage of the 10 inch over the 7 and 8 inch. The flight time is no longer and doesn't perform any better.
Actually it's much less efficient than my 7 inch. But obviously you can carry higher loads, which means bigger batteries. So only with bigger batteries do I get similar good flight times as my 7 inch. All in all it's just bigger, more expensive and dangerous. No real benefit unless you really want to make use of carrying high loads like they do in Ukraine. Thats why manufacturers are all making 10 inch right now
You're wrong, 10" drones are waaaaay more efficient than a 7" flight times for me have almost doubled. on a 6s 9000mah li-ion home made pack.
@jorgec5335 give me some figures please. What flight times are you getting?
I get 24 minutes on 6s2p 18650 5600mah on my 7 inch. Same battery on my 10 inch gets me only 16 minutes.
If I pack 6s3p 21700 on my 10 inch, I get 30 minutes. My 7 inch can't handle that weight well.
All flight times are compared at similar speeds traveling at 60kph average.
@chrisbee5481 from my experience flying 7,8,9,10 I have the same thoughts. I’m doing mostly mountain surfing and for me 7,8 is the best. With 10 inch I get the same fly time as 7inch but my cruising speed on 10inch is 110km/h
@@chrisbee5481 I'm using 6s2p 9ah 21700; molicell p45b 4.5ah rated for 45amps. Average 25-30 mins on 7 inch on a cruise long range flight, with aggressive flying 10% of the flight. With the same pack on a 10" long range I'm averaging 40-45 mins with similar flying. I don't know what cells you're using but your cell C rating affects your efficiency very much so.
I'd find a better frame for that money.
When i bought it there wasn't anything that was interesting enough to me. Now AOS has all their designs up at a comparable price, in retrospect now I'd probably get an AOS 10 since i love his desgins and my AOS UL7... but apples to apples even if i had an AOS 10 im not sure if the 10 would be more efficient than my 7...TBD
0.0
why haven't you shown how it flies?
These do great work in Ukraine. Especially with a fiber optic VTX
TPU Master Pack Here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:6810055
along with parts list and more in description