Do not put sealant in until you have seated the tyre. Then remove the core add sealant and reinflate. This way if the tyre does not seat you can remove the tyre and start again without the mess.
If the tyre is a pain to seal, you can also help the initial seating of the tube if you leave the vale core out when doing this, then replace it to inflate to correct pressure.
A few comments - * You CAN get punctures! While sealant will fill small punctures anything larger than a few mm will cause a slow leak. Make sure you still carry an inner tube with you because I sure as hell won't give you mine if you think tubeless is the magic solution. * If you are using a standard pump to seat the tire I've found that holding the tire down with your hand at the valve while inflating will help air be pushed around the tire and seat it easier.
Dear GCN,I'm pretty new to the whole gravel bike riding and tubeless tires as I'm sure many of your viewers are. While I certainly think that tubeless is the way to go for gravel riding, I'm always guessing as to what my pressure should be, and I usually make that guess based upon what I think the road surface (or lack there of) is going to be.It would be cool if GCN did a experiment about how low should you go. Sure lower pressure can be great, but obviously there's a trade off with increased rolling resistance.While there are a variety of factors that can effect what pressure you should be riding like rider weight, road/off-road surface, speed, desired comfort level for those who don't care about speed vs. less wear and tear for a longer race performance and more here's what I'd like to see you do....Take a gravel bike with tubeless tires and a power meter, plot out a course that covers a variety of surfaces over a few short miles, then go ride it at as near of a constant speed that you can, recording the power output needed to do it at 25, 30, 35, 40, 45 & 50 psi. Feel free to alter this however you'd like and what makes the most sense. But I think it would be a great segment.And as usual, I'm sure you can have some fun with it as well.Thanks,Jon
#TubelssTip When adding or removing air from a sealant filled tire rotate the valve to apx 45 degrees downward. This keeps the sealant away from the O-ring that seal the air inside. 90 degrees down should be avoided because it can make the sealant splash upward when the pumphead is removed. If you already have this issue (cause a slow leak) , remove the valve & clean it with H2O.
I use thorn tubes on my fitness bike and wear out the tires before I ever get a flat . interesting process , I am not racer so I would never use those tires but I did enjoy the video .
just an observation, Orange seal is great for MTB , but I find that for CX is just a little too thick and plugs the valve core, that makes it almost imposible to put accurate air pressure. Stan's is a little lighter so for CX is better , also you don't really need that thick of a sealant .
I wanted to ask a question to GCN! I see your videos for a long time, and I noticed that you are focused only on top of the range bikes and components. So! what about low/mid range bikes? They do not deserve some attention? Because there are a lot of people that can´t afford those bikes but have the same passion! Cycling. And that does´t mean high end specs. The Best for the Chanel
does your bike have wheels and pedals? Then literally all of their videos can apply to you. I mean if you are asking them to do reviews of the new Shimano Sora groupset, then I don't think they can help you...
Hey GCN! Could you guys do a video on riding over train tracks/cattle gates? I was a tad ignorant a few months ago riding over some tracks that were on a pretty good angle and crashed bad. Now I can't cross tracks (even those perpendicular to the road) without really tensing up or stopping and walking my bike over. Thanks!
I've heard that the sealant only lasts a couple of months or so before hardening off. Is this true? I don't really want to strip down and clean the wheels and tyres every two or three months and the sealant would get expensive after a while.
I think its important to check the tyre is tight enough on the rim, otherwise when racing at low pressures air escapes from the tyre when cornering hard. At around 10psi twist the tyre away from the rim with your hands, air shouldnt escape. also an essential check for ghetto tubeless
#torqueback why don't tubeless hold air as well, where is it escaping from and why isn't the sealant doing its job when you don't get punctures from thorns?
The only thing I don't like about tubeless is that if you don't have money for multiple wheels or bikes then it's a pain to go from road to cross/gravel tires often... so for now I am just leaving my gravel tires and eating the resistance and weight penalty...
What is now better for cyclocross: tubular or tubeless? Actually i have clincher and every 10 ride a flat tire... I drive with 3,5 bar for a Conti CycloX-King.
I swapped to tubeless last year after having loads of snakebite punctures. Can't afford tubs. Tubeless have allowed me to run low pressures (25psi) and no more snakebite. I find them fairly quick to change and have run diy and tubeless specific. Tubeless specific is MUCH easier than diy. I've used them on road races, cross races and 100 mile off road epics.
Can I run my Bontrager Race Lites tubeless using Stans tape rather than the specific rim strips that come with the wheels as I have lost mine & Trek say I have to use the rim strips rather than tape but I don't see why?
Realy important tip that you didn't say is. Don't but seelant in before you test that tire will rise on peet. If you but seelant and it woundnt rise you have Big mess and you mite lose that seelant and buy/wait another to ariwe weeks. Allso i have find out that seelant on your inside tire needs hard laibor to get off that latex fungesmusrom. And you can't let tire go flat ewer...otherwise you maybe have Big job to get that tire on rimpeet again. So i use tubes😐
hi there, i have a standard roadbike that i used regularly for exercising, and im planning to commute to work daily, so can i just replace the new tubeless tyres on my standard wheelset? or is there a specific wheelset for tubeless tyres that i need to change?
Sealant won't stick to the tire like that. What happens is that it clumps up in a ball which will roll around in the tire. In my experience it's not really noticeable (as there is liquid sealant also bouncing around) but you can remove it by taking the tire off and re-seating it.
Real Cider No, you put the sealant in the tyre well when you dont have a valve with a removable valve core. If you have a valve with a removable core, you inject the sealant thru it. Its one or the other, not both. Happy rinding!
If the sealant doesn't work it could be due to failed(old) sealant, or a cut that is too big for the sealant to fill. You can either patch the cut - if it's big - or stick a tube in, like a normal tyre and sort the cut when you get home. There are various methods to fill in cit sidewalls.
If it a puncture hole & the tire is still sealed on the rim a twig forced into the hole will help the hole seal. If you have unseated the bead & you have a CO2 inflator it's worth a shot as long as you another to inflate the tube when resealing doesn't work (%60 of the time). If it works you may need to change out the sealant pretty soon as the cold CO2 air degrades the sealant.
No need to buy high pressure tape! Use electric tape to tightly seal around the existing rim tape, including inner walls 2, 3 times, it works for me very good!
#askgcn Guys, sorry if this is a little out of the topic. But do you know anything about Cannondale making a recall on their new Slate gravel bike? Something about the original tubeless tires exploding?
I hope you don't get a puncture, It is nearly impossible to re-seat a tubeless on the side of the road. You need to make sure that you have a tube in your bag or a SAG wagon with a spare wheel.
True if you are using a small hand pump. There are several way to remedy this. One is to use co2 canister pump. Or find a nearest petrol station that have tire pump. Or simply place a inner tube inside the tire and because it can retain air it will force the tire to pop shut. Generally the bead still hold after puncture and unless you still move across rough terrain even when all the air has escaped and cause the bead to shift out.
i have a great hack to get rid of all the problems and mess associated with tubeless. i just put a tube in inflate pretend its not there and hey presto tubeless without the fuss!
This is the best advert for inner tubes that I ever saw.
Do not put sealant in until you have seated the tyre. Then remove the core add sealant and reinflate.
This way if the tyre does not seat you can remove the tyre and start again without the mess.
If the tyre is a pain to seal, you can also help the initial seating of the tube if you leave the vale core out when doing this, then replace it to inflate to correct pressure.
A few comments -
* You CAN get punctures! While sealant will fill small punctures anything larger than a few mm will cause a slow leak. Make sure you still carry an inner tube with you because I sure as hell won't give you mine if you think tubeless is the magic solution.
* If you are using a standard pump to seat the tire I've found that holding the tire down with your hand at the valve while inflating will help air be pushed around the tire and seat it easier.
Two birds with one stone. Si also had his fall workout done with that shake!
I picked up the joe blow booster...best pump purchase ever. Its not instant but it works amazing every time.
Dear GCN,I'm pretty new to the whole gravel bike riding and tubeless tires as I'm sure many of your viewers are. While I certainly think that tubeless is the way to go for gravel riding, I'm always guessing as to what my pressure should be, and I usually make that guess based upon what I think the road surface (or lack there of) is going to be.It would be cool if GCN did a experiment about how low should you go. Sure lower pressure can be great, but obviously there's a trade off with increased rolling resistance.While there are a variety of factors that can effect what pressure you should be riding like rider weight, road/off-road surface, speed, desired comfort level for those who don't care about speed vs. less wear and tear for a longer race performance and more here's what I'd like to see you do....Take a gravel bike with tubeless tires and a power meter, plot out a course that covers a variety of surfaces over a few short miles, then go ride it at as near of a constant speed that you can, recording the power output needed to do it at 25, 30, 35, 40, 45 & 50 psi. Feel free to alter this however you'd like and what makes the most sense. But I think it would be a great segment.And as usual, I'm sure you can have some fun with it as well.Thanks,Jon
Thank you for the video! I watched, and then installed a new tire!
#TubelssTip When adding or removing air from a sealant filled tire rotate the valve to apx 45 degrees downward. This keeps the sealant away from the O-ring that seal the air inside. 90 degrees down should be avoided because it can make the sealant splash upward when the pumphead is removed.
If you already have this issue (cause a slow leak) , remove the valve & clean it with H2O.
I use thorn tubes on my fitness bike and wear out the tires before I ever get a flat . interesting process , I am not racer so I would never use those tires but I did enjoy the video .
OK, I've pumped vigorously. You're right -- it wasn't a problem.
Now I suppose it's time to go install my tubeless tyres.
just an observation, Orange seal is great for MTB , but I find that for CX is just a little too thick and plugs the valve core, that makes it almost imposible to put accurate air pressure. Stan's is a little lighter so for CX is better , also you don't really need that thick of a sealant .
You make it look so easy. I have struggled with the wheels that came stock on my Specialized Crux Expert. I think they are Axis 4.0.
I wanted to ask a question to GCN! I see your videos for a long time, and I noticed that you are focused only on top of the range bikes and components. So! what about low/mid range bikes? They do not deserve some attention? Because there are a lot of people that can´t afford those bikes but have the same passion! Cycling. And that does´t mean high end specs. The Best for the Chanel
Ricardo Figueiras they dgaf
Sorry Mate, I don´t understand what do you mean!
They "don't give a fuck"
does your bike have wheels and pedals? Then literally all of their videos can apply to you.
I mean if you are asking them to do reviews of the new Shimano Sora groupset, then I don't think they can help you...
Thanks a lot. It is really helpful, and make me much more relax to turn my wheels into tubeless. Good game guys.
oh I always seat the valve part first helps get the bead passed the valve in my opinion
c02 canisters can really help seat tubeless tyres :)
*as long as you don't use stan's sealant.
why not with stan's?
because it can cause the sealant to kind of curdle like when you put lemon juice into milk; it doesn't work too well after that.
Good to know.
Ethan Sloss very good to know- cheers for that one, i guess thats because it freezes it?
Hey GCN! Could you guys do a video on riding over train tracks/cattle gates? I was a tad ignorant a few months ago riding over some tracks that were on a pretty good angle and crashed bad. Now I can't cross tracks (even those perpendicular to the road) without really tensing up or stopping and walking my bike over. Thanks!
I've heard that the sealant only lasts a couple of months or so before hardening off. Is this true? I don't really want to strip down and clean the wheels and tyres every two or three months and the sealant would get expensive after a while.
Appreciate your videos. Always to the point and inspiring.
I think its important to check the tyre is tight enough on the rim, otherwise when racing at low pressures air escapes from the tyre when cornering hard. At around 10psi twist the tyre away from the rim with your hands, air shouldnt escape. also an essential check for ghetto tubeless
#torqueback why don't tubeless hold air as well, where is it escaping from and why isn't the sealant doing its job when you don't get punctures from thorns?
How much sealant do you need to add when you're topping it up?
Quite a firm shake u got there, Si. Practice much?
from champagne podium popping
;-)
Lots of lubricant and vigorous pumping. I never knew cycling could be so much fun
Well that all looks very straight forward. Of course I won't try it -- it just looks too difficult.
So well done. Many thanks
The only thing I don't like about tubeless is that if you don't have money for multiple wheels or bikes then it's a pain to go from road to cross/gravel tires often... so for now I am just leaving my gravel tires and eating the resistance and weight penalty...
What is now better for cyclocross: tubular or tubeless? Actually i have clincher and every 10 ride a flat tire... I drive with 3,5 bar for a Conti CycloX-King.
I swapped to tubeless last year after having loads of snakebite punctures. Can't afford tubs. Tubeless have allowed me to run low pressures (25psi) and no more snakebite. I find them fairly quick to change and have run diy and tubeless specific. Tubeless specific is MUCH easier than diy. I've used them on road races, cross races and 100 mile off road epics.
Can I run my Bontrager Race Lites tubeless using Stans tape rather than the specific rim strips that come with the wheels as I have lost mine & Trek say I have to use the rim strips rather than tape but I don't see why?
first watch the challenge tire guide i say no way then this and look so easy like put a latex inner tube
Question @GCN: what pressures woud you run tubeless in a 'cross race ? I run my Tubulars @circa2 - 2,3 bar, can I run this low in Tubeless mode ?
That's one fancy pants pump.
Realy important tip that you didn't say is. Don't but seelant in before you test that tire will rise on peet. If you but seelant and it woundnt rise you have Big mess and you mite lose that seelant and buy/wait another to ariwe weeks.
Allso i have find out that seelant on your inside tire needs hard laibor to get off that latex fungesmusrom. And you can't let tire go flat ewer...otherwise you maybe have Big job to get that tire on rimpeet again.
So i use tubes😐
hi there, i have a standard roadbike that i used regularly for exercising,
and im planning to commute to work daily,
so can i just replace the new tubeless tyres on my standard wheelset?
or is there a specific wheelset for tubeless tyres that i need to change?
i love you man :) i suffered with my wheels about 1,5 hours then i found this video
Does the wheels HAVE to be tubeless ready?
What happens if your bikes sits for a long period of time? Do you get pools of sealant in the bottom of your tires and really unbalanced rolling?
Sealant won't stick to the tire like that. What happens is that it clumps up in a ball which will roll around in the tire. In my experience it's not really noticeable (as there is liquid sealant also bouncing around) but you can remove it by taking the tire off and re-seating it.
What did you use for valve and sealant? Thanks
Quick question - you add sealant twice? once in the tyre well, and once thru the valve?
--
What are the rims?
Thank you,
Real Cider No, you put the sealant in the tyre well when you dont have a valve with a removable valve core.
If you have a valve with a removable core, you inject the sealant thru it.
Its one or the other, not both.
Happy rinding!
thanks for the reply!! what make / model are the rims? they look great..
Real Cider Those are Reynolds Assault wheels. I also think they're awesome!
Hi all, Can you do anything at all to fix a tubeless puncture roadside??or is it automaticly calling a taxi.Cheers
If the sealant doesn't work it could be due to failed(old) sealant, or a cut that is too big for the sealant to fill. You can either patch the cut - if it's big - or stick a tube in, like a normal tyre and sort the cut when you get home. There are various methods to fill in cit sidewalls.
If it a puncture hole & the tire is still sealed on the rim a twig forced into the hole will help the hole seal.
If you have unseated the bead & you have a CO2 inflator it's worth a shot as long as you another to inflate the tube when resealing doesn't work (%60 of the time).
If it works you may need to change out the sealant pretty soon as the cold CO2 air degrades the sealant.
Thanks for the tips !
No need to buy high pressure tape! Use electric tape to tightly seal around the existing rim tape, including inner walls 2, 3 times, it works for me very good!
#askgcn Guys, sorry if this is a little out of the topic. But do you know anything about Cannondale making a recall on their new Slate gravel bike? Something about the original tubeless tires exploding?
whats the minimum pressure you'd recommend to avoid burping #torqueback
What's burbing?
can this be done with a challenge open tubular tire?
nope :(
zhoutai182 damn :(
would have been amazing :p
Flat tyre from thorns?
I hope you don't get a puncture, It is nearly impossible to re-seat a tubeless on the side of the road. You need to make sure that you have a tube in your bag or a SAG wagon with a spare wheel.
Tubeless, not tubular
Doug Hungerford Even with CO2?
that's why you carry a spare inner tube...
essentially the same
True if you are using a small hand pump. There are several way to remedy this. One is to use co2 canister pump. Or find a nearest petrol station that have tire pump. Or simply place a inner tube inside the tire and because it can retain air it will force the tire to pop shut. Generally the bead still hold after puncture and unless you still move across rough terrain even when all the air has escaped and cause the bead to shift out.
In the USA 2oz is 4 Tablespoons....
Is there a newer video than this? This one is nearly 5 years old, I'm guessing things have moved on.
6:40 baaahahaha!!!! nice!
you could have used yr fancy pants pump to blow the leaves off yr courtyard/patio... #keepitclean
A lot has changed in 4 years.
No puncture isn't entirely true. A definite misconception
I just can't get onboard with tubeless tires. If you get that really bad puncture and you're in the middle of nowhere you're screwed.
just put a tube in
John McLeod a really bad puncture as in one that would ruin your tyre regardless if you have tubes or not...
But yeah,just throw a tube in
and enjoy getting sealant all over your hands.... no thanks
if you just angle the tire and keep the sealant in the bottom its not that messy. Sealant isn't that bad on your hands
5:49
What pfaff!
Tubeless just seems like more work/trouble than its worth.
Not had a puncture in 9 years on tubeless on my MTB and gravel bike .. well worth it IMO
Nothing
RIP headphone users
You forgot to put the inner tube in
beeeerr
how to waste your time and money 101
i have a great hack to get rid of all the problems and mess associated with tubeless. i just put a tube in inflate pretend its not there and hey presto tubeless without the fuss!