Sophie's Stained Glass | Painting and Shading in One Firing.
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- Опубліковано 31 лип 2023
- A simple technique for painting and shading in one firing.
For more top tips and in depth advice buy Sophie's BOOK here: www.crowood.com/products/stai...
or in the US here: nbnbooks.com/book/97807198413...
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Find out more about Sophie's domestic and ecclesiastical stained glass work by visiting sophiedsouzastainedglass.co.uk/
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helpful video sophie thankyou.
You’re welcome 😊
Most beautiful and peaceful video. Music I really enjoy. Can watch over snd over❤qqq
Thank you very much!
I have run out of superlatives. Beautiful work Sophie.
Thank you! 😊
It's fascinating to see this process. You add so much depth with your shading.
Many thanks.
Interesting, new to me, and very pretty. Look forward to what you create.😊
Thank you! 😊
Very interesting development of technique. Really liked it, and loved the finished works. Did the glass already have the areas with a red tinge or did you use other 'paints' to create the colour variations on the few with brown/red elements? Also a slight concern ....... if the tracing and initial shading is not fired it must make any additional shading (that does not turn out well) impossible to remove???
I guess so - and actually if I was doing something harder, like a face, I would fire the line work before shading for that reason. As I work in a lot of Catholic Churches, I've done loads of white and grapes before so I'm quite confident with them.
Beautiful leaves, enjoyed the process , will we get to see the finished piece 😊
Yes, soon
Hi sophie, unrelated question - how do you keep right angled panels nice and square? I've soldered a few only to notice they were wonked out of square. If I've got nails pinning the corners, i cant press a square up against it to keep it square. Any help appreciated. 😁👋🏻
Some people use buttons for all the edges. So when they get to the last 2 edges, they remove the nails and replace them with buttons. You can give the buttons a bit of a hammer to get them true (so long as your panel hasn't gone too much out of shape). Perhaps this method would solve your problem? There is a picture of this technique on page 80 of my book (in case you have a copy).
Thanks for video. Is there such a thing as a kiln that's not super expensive £1000 that's suitable for small paintings? Any recommendations or suggestions?
You used to be able to get a hobby kiln for about £500 but maybe thats a thing of the past. The only really cheap kilns are microwave kilns but I think they are only for fusing? www.amazon.co.uk/Professional-Large-Microwave-Glass-Fusing/dp/B01HF5VVXC/ref=asc_df_B01HF5VVXC/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=344292166971&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11845956794044046471&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9045942&hvtargid=pla-350525448221&psc=1&mcid=dd9a1c7a9a4d3e0e845c0282c3ebe04d
Is the kiln warmed up a little, and then the glass is put in and kiln turned higher till reaches temp? Or do you put the pieces in and then turn on the kiln?
Generally the latter. I warm it very slowly if the paint is mixed with glycol as I prefer to dry the paint before cooking it.
do you need a seperate pallete for the paint with glycol? or use the same? thanks
I use dried out water pallets for glycol sometimes but I don't use glycol pallets for water.
@@SophiesStainedGlass thank you. Another Q if I may. Is there an alternative to using a badger brush to get the same effect? Im thinking of both cost and the ethics. Many thanks
@@user-gx9ms4zu7t A really big soft blusher brush does an ok job.