I was a mechanic for over 50+ years on forklifts, diesel,electric and propane we did machinery and custom jobs all the time for cylinders, drive gear and etc. and I have been watching people build model steam engines on the Internet for some time . Being a model builder myself I can see and go along with the procedures. But your work brings a new standard to the world of building perfection I have to give you 10👍🏻 for your work and great videos. I watch all the jobs you do with excitement. In my opinion I haven’t seen any one better then you . God bless !
These P.M. Research kits are really good. They come with everything needed to build a running engine. A lot of these kit could be built with a file, hacksaw and hand drill and they would run. The true enjoyment is building them as accurate and best finished as possible. Then they become real works of skill and art to be proud of.
Nice zero clearance insert for the bandsaw blade. Not even 3 minutes into the video and once again, I saw something completely useful that I probably already should have known about but didn't. Thanks
I bought this unmachined casting kit simply because I want to make a thing of beauty that will be a joy forever! Thank you for showing all the steps and thought you put into all the little parts. I can’t wait to get started!
Man it surely looks good once you start flying the brass parts and the shiny screws in. Very relaxing to watch you build Joe, and I am really liking your method for using a pin to figure where the hole lies introspect with the casting, simple yet positive, and a good plug for the tap handle, cheers!
Again I love the hand work. There are sooooo many things a machine can't quite accomplish. Thanks for the new small tap handle. Perfect size. Lots of feedback from it. Fun to make too.Seeing these pieces assembled and floating as if on a cloud is just wonderful. Well done Joe. Quickest 21 min on the Tube today !
@@joepie221 My pleasure teach. Folks like you make this retirement thing a whole lot easier to handle. I think some days watching an automatic screw machine all day would be more entertaining, LOL. Take care eh.
As usual another great video, I would like to add one other trick regarding setting a surface parallel with the top of the vice jaws. If you use two magnets on the top surface of the fixed jaw it frees up one of your'e hands. Stay safe and keep the videos coming.
As usual, awesome video Joe! With the camera zoomed in on the parts, It's easy to lose track of how small this model is; watching the assembly segment where your hands are visible intuitively conveys the small size. I also find nothing more satisfying than putting together assemblies using high quality parts (and tools)!
If your oil/lube flow is to high, instead of peening the holes insert “Joggle or Jiggle” wires into the oil cup that restrict the flow and are easily removable or changed to suit lube viscosity or flow needs. Make them from soft wire such as annealed copper to reflect a “T” pin and to reduce the flow to about 50% of the final port size in the slide caps. Thank you for your time and insights.
As the man said - "I Just Love It When A Plan Comes Together." [Hannibal - "A-Team"] Waiting to see the results on the finished project, if like this the rest is going to be just fantastic workable eye candy. Something to be proud to have on mantel in home.
Generally I just watch and enjoy your videos, with admiration. I’ve refrained from posting as I didn’t want to add to the number of responses you make. However I think the time has come when I really must add my thanks for the pleasure you bring. Do it 😉
This is an excellent series done by a first class machinist! I’ve been following you for over a year and have learned something from every single one of your videos. Hoping you might consider doing a more complex steam model in the future.
Coming along nicely Joe. When I make my stationary engines I will use studs and nuts for real a authentic look. Easy to achieve and it really looks the part. Keep up the great work.
So gorgeous! I love the snick, snick sound of the cross slide. Perfect fit. It's funny but I always lose a sense of scale when I watch your videos. When I saw the bandsaw blade I was thinking, "holy cow, that's like a 3 TPI blade!"
Been following this series and enjoying every minute! A truly fascinating thing to watch you take something as rough as those castings and turn it into what, to me, should run as smoothly as a Swiss timepiece when all is done. Thank you very much for sharing
When it comes to drilling small diameter holes I prefer to use drill bits with a 2.3mm shank. They are less likely to break, easier to handle, and fit standard drill chucks. Oh, and they are easier to find when you drop them ;-)
Also gave a thumbs up. I agree with Random Dude with the Saturday mornings..... Even Wile E. Coyote "super genius" could not have machined these parts this good !
Ya I gave it a thumbs up, just as good as saturday morning cartoons when I was a kid. Really cool little engine, excellent entertainment Thanks again Joe
Excellent work Joe, its coming along very nicely, i don't tend to work on such small parts but your tips are much appreciated as they translate into the world of the large as well. you have even got me thinking about building a little engine
I thought you were making a tuning fork for a min there Joe! Love the fact you are Soooo enjoying this build, and you beat me to it with the hex heads. It is so refreshing to see you doing this build, I've watched so many hobby shop builds, don't get me wrong I will make as many mistakes as they do, or maybe not after all your tips, tricks n well knowledge! As always Joe TFS, G :)
@@joepie221 I think most of us suffer from the perils of accumulating errors. They compound as the model comes together. You have shown that by following the print and the tolerances exactly, you are achieving accumulating precision, which is a joy to behold!
That is a great idea on using the tap guide as a depth gauge. I’m wondering if it would be good to incorporate a scale on the part that slides in and out.
Joe, GREAT series! I've wanted to build a steam engine since I was in my teens. After many decades I now have my own small machine shop in my garage. Just need to get to it. I have seen a great many model/small steam engines over the years. Most of them have the fillister head screws you used. They look more "period correct" than an allen cap screw. I have a friend that has a small stationary steam engine that was designed and made by his father. He was a pattern maker and made all the patterns and casting himself. My friend still has the patterns! BTW, that engine has the same type screws you used... I'm working with him to purchase it as he doesn't really have an interest in stuff like this.
@@joepie221 I started on Elmer Verburg's #33 mill engine from billet years ago, and set it aside before finishing. After watching your series I have pulled it back out and dusted it off. Thanks for the inspiration.
Great videos Joe, at 62 I'm finally putting together a shop (actually it's my first house) I have an 11x24 Chinese lathe and a Clausing 8525 mill and looking forward to do the things I have learned. Thanks.
@@joepie221 I'll always be safe, I grew up in a chain saw dealership and know what happens when you don't respect machines. I saw a couple of funny safety signs one said "This machine has no brain, use yours". and the other was " you probably came into this world by accident, don't go out by one".
I also wanted to tell you a story about a job I had where I made parts for food packing machines, I worked on a Bridgeport for an old German who designed them and built them from scratch, every morning he would give me a set of prints and tell me how many he needed,,one day he came up to me and said "Mark I like your work, when you make something it fits" I looked at him with a puzzled look and replied "Isn't it supposed too?". I had to machine ports in a tapered valve core made of an alloy called WM88 (from Waukesha steel) Manfred said to me I don't care how long it takes but they have to be right later on I thought about how much of a compliment that was because it came from a man from a culture who is fanatical about precision and he trusted my work. If he hadn't crashed his plane and died I would probably still work there, he was also my friend and I flew with him on his 3 flights just before he crashed, now I can relate to how my fathers aunt and uncle felt after they cancelled reservations for the Titanic.
As others have commented, the slotted screws are not the best fit, visually. I'm sure that you will come up with the appropriate screws to add to the appearance. Thank you for adding the still shots at the end of the video- they help with visualizing the scale of the model.
It is truly a thing of beauty. May I suggest a trip through the media blaster to dull the shine on the end bosses? The Scotchbrite finish is still too bright in comparison to the cast surface and draws the eye.
Always enjoy your videos, tons of great tips over the years. Speaking for all the curmudgeons, that bandsaw blade looked a little coarse for the thickness of the "horseshoe" you cut off.
Hey Joe, thank you for your videos, I’m always learning a lot from them. The bandsaw blade caught my eye, it looked to be a bit coarse for cutting the fairly thin fork - I am assuming the piece of wood underneath was to both have zero clearance and give the blade additional thickness to work with so it wouldn’t grab?
Another great video Joe, watch every week. If you are interested in hand tools and finishes I have been watching Chris Ramsey of Clickspring, some fantastic work that you might like. See the example here ua-cam.com/video/3PwAQZNLy0I/v-deo.html and the making of his clock series here ua-cam.com/video/dU7iKNmQBIs/v-deo.html comment section link to all the videos for this clock. Enjoy.
If you like Clicksprimg, you might also like AVE. He once claimed, they are twins separated at birth. but I suspect AVE is stretching the truth. Or lying. Ignore the foul language, it is meant as a parody, I'm sure. His name is also Chris I think, which supports the thought that he is lying, as does his approach to everything he does. Good fun if you don't take it too seriously.
Tiny bit of cotton as a wick will restrict excessive oil flow. Another trick i've used to make small holes smaller in brass/bronze, like in finding correct size carb jets, is to soft solder it full and blow through when solder is still molten.
I was thinking about cotton because the full sized version uses a stand tube and wick, as for carb jets no need for solder, a piece of magnet wire inserted in the jet will reduce the size as required
As usual great video. The thing I like the most is the fact that you are still thrilled to do such a project, when I'm sure you have done and still do much more complicated projects as your daily routine. BTW - did you see my email?
Except shcs or allen head bolts were invented long after engines like this were in common use. Allen bolts do however make a great source of already black oxide coated studs just by removing the heads and dressing the cut off end.
There was an article in 'The Home Shop Machinist' Jan/Feb 2008 about making miniature taps and dies for modellers to keep everything in correct proportions. I know I'll never use 0.010" diameter, 350tpi but it was pretty interesting. (at least to me) I I don't use anything smaller than 1.8mm or more usual 2mm which are commercially available and the carburettors I modify don't use smaller than 3.5mm diameter but some non-standard pitches up to 8 x1mm
Joe - Really enjoying this build. I’m getting a lot of useful machining tips which help me on my own steam loco build. Did you make your own sprung loading tapping alignment tool? If you did could you show us a build of one. I’m off to make one of your design small tap handle! 👍🙂 John 🇬🇧
Great video joe but I’ve noticed the 1.125 red ink on your vice as been there for some time, does I have a purpose or have you just not got round to wiping it off yet?
@@joepie221 Aesthetically and design wise the full sized oil cups would have had a fairly thin brass nut on those threads used as a lock nut :-) The problem with all this is just where do you stop trying to replicate full scale. By most standards Mrs. Cherry Hill / Hinds is probably the finest model engineer in the world that's alive today. This link will take you to the Shereline Craftsmanship Museum page about her. www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/Hill.htm about half way down the page is a list of unbelievable exact scale steam era engines she's built from scratch that are now kept at the prestigious Institution of Mechanical Engineers in London England. Clicking on each one of those will get you to full screen pictures that still don't do them justice according to one I know who's seen them in person. In judged shows she's won every award there is to win for her work and done so pretty much at every show she entered a model in since 1968. Another I'd judge as almost her equal would be Jerry Kieffer who's also listed on that Shereline website for anyone that's interested.
A commenter on a previous video pointed out that McMaster-Carr has the hex bolts, studs, and nuts he needs in stainless. So I can't imagine him bothering to make them.
I was a mechanic for over 50+ years on forklifts, diesel,electric and propane we did machinery and custom jobs all the time for cylinders, drive gear and etc. and I have been watching people build model steam engines on the Internet for some time . Being a model builder myself I can see and go along with the procedures. But your work brings a new standard to the world of building perfection I have to give you 10👍🏻 for your work and great videos. I watch all the jobs you do with excitement. In my opinion I haven’t seen any one better then you . God bless !
Thats very flattering. Thank you for the compliment.
So one thing I noticed thus far on this project Joe, you are having fun. As you should. I know I am having fun watching, Cheers
Thats a perfect combo.
Thanks for publishing this series Joe, it is a gold mine for those of us wannabe machinists.
Glad you enjoy it!
These P.M. Research kits are really good. They come with everything needed to build a running engine. A lot of these kit could be built with a file, hacksaw and hand drill and they would run. The true enjoyment is building them as accurate and best finished as possible. Then they become real works of skill and art to be proud of.
"A thing of beauty is a joy forever" Yep.
It has always been a pleasure of mine to watch a person do beautiful work and then watch it come together perfectly .
😁 You probably wouldn’t want to watch me building my new shed currently then. Lots of cursing and re-doing.
That sounds like me@@todaywefly4370
Great tip using a steel ball to reduce the size of a small oil feed hole. Thanks. Really enjoy your exceptional craftsmanship.
I've done the same when I've made some "T" nuts to keep the stud from going all the way thru.
Nice zero clearance insert for the bandsaw blade. Not even 3 minutes into the video and once again, I saw something completely useful that I probably already should have known about but didn't. Thanks
Remember it and pass it on.
I bought this unmachined casting kit simply because I want to make a thing of beauty that will be a joy forever! Thank you for showing all the steps and thought you put into all the little parts. I can’t wait to get started!
Take your time. If you have a question, please ask.
Man it surely looks good once you start flying the brass parts and the shiny screws in. Very relaxing to watch you build Joe, and I am really liking your method for using a pin to figure where the hole lies introspect with the casting, simple yet positive, and a good plug for the tap handle, cheers!
Again I love the hand work. There are sooooo many things a machine can't quite accomplish. Thanks for the new small tap handle. Perfect size. Lots of feedback from it. Fun to make too.Seeing these pieces assembled and floating as if on a cloud is just wonderful. Well done Joe. Quickest 21 min on the Tube today !
Thanks for watching!
@@joepie221 My pleasure teach. Folks like you make this retirement thing a whole lot easier to handle. I think some days watching an automatic screw machine all day would be more entertaining, LOL. Take care eh.
I love watching a master at work. Thanks for doing these! I learn something everytime.
Glad you like them!
Artistry in precision in the foreground, artistry in capitalism in the background. The true Master(y) of this Tradesman Craft, Joe Pieczynski.
As usual another great video, I would like to add one other trick regarding setting a surface parallel with the top of the vice jaws.
If you use two magnets on the top surface of the fixed jaw it frees up one of your'e hands.
Stay safe and keep the videos coming.
Careful Joe you are starting to sound like the rest of us ....."Save that little end piece , I might need that for something"
As usual, awesome video Joe! With the camera zoomed in on the parts, It's easy to lose track of how small this model is; watching the assembly segment where your hands are visible intuitively conveys the small size. I also find nothing more satisfying than putting together assemblies using high quality parts (and tools)!
If your oil/lube flow is to high, instead of peening the holes insert “Joggle or Jiggle” wires into the oil cup that restrict the flow and are easily removable or changed to suit lube viscosity or flow needs.
Make them from soft wire such as annealed copper to reflect a “T” pin and to reduce the flow to about 50% of the final port size in the slide caps.
Thank you for your time and insights.
I wasn't really interested in trying to build one of these projects. But watching having so much fun with it, I'm going to reconsider, thank Joe.
I am trying to follow along, I am working on the cylinder taking my time.
Thank you very much for making this series. A big fan from N/E PA.
As the man said - "I Just Love It When A Plan Comes Together." [Hannibal - "A-Team"] Waiting to see the results on the finished project, if like this the rest is going to be just fantastic workable eye candy. Something to be proud to have on mantel in home.
Generally I just watch and enjoy your videos, with admiration. I’ve refrained from posting as I didn’t want to add to the number of responses you make.
However I think the time has come when I really must add my thanks for the pleasure you bring. Do it 😉
I appreciate the comment. Thanks.
I'm with you on the fasteners! I changed all of mine to micro hex head screws. it truly improved the look of the model.
Rich
I bet it does.
Very very nice Joe, thank you for another great video! I'm Looking forward to seeing this run... it's close!
This is an excellent series done by a first class machinist! I’ve been following you for over a year and have learned something from every single one of your videos. Hoping you might consider doing a more complex steam model in the future.
Joe I cant wait to get the next episodes machining of this model, in these taxing times it is the best medicine ever.. thank you!
Its therapy on this end too.
After watching from Part #1 to 12, your attention to perfection continues too amaze me on all your teaching videos. thx Joe, keep it up,,Bear
Thanks Bear. I'm looking forward to seeing it all together.
The Faberge of model steam engines! A joy to watch and behold, thanks Joe Pie
Coming along nicely Joe. When I make my stationary engines I will use studs and nuts for real a authentic look. Easy to achieve and it really looks the part. Keep up the great work.
Very nice. On small taps I simply count the turns, knowing the pitch you know how deep you are.
Cant wait to see finished model!
As always a great result....happy thanksgiving from over in Spicewood
So gorgeous! I love the snick, snick sound of the cross slide. Perfect fit.
It's funny but I always lose a sense of scale when I watch your videos. When I saw the bandsaw blade I was thinking, "holy cow, that's like a 3 TPI blade!"
6 I believe.
Been following this series and enjoying every minute! A truly fascinating thing to watch you take something as rough as those castings and turn it into what, to me, should run as smoothly as a Swiss timepiece when all is done. Thank you very much for sharing
Glad you enjoy watching it! I'm certainly enjoying building it.
When it comes to drilling small diameter holes I prefer to use drill bits with a 2.3mm shank. They are less likely to break, easier to handle, and fit standard drill chucks. Oh, and they are easier to find when you drop them ;-)
A small amount of felt down the oil cup hole will help regulate lubrication, great series you have going here.
Thanks for stopping by Stan. I hope you guys are doing well out there. Texas is getting hot again.
My vote goes for studs and square head nuts.
Then make the tiny wrench for them.
But the gun screws look good too.
Square would look nice
Square would look great.
Brilliant again Joe, school day on a Saturday, perfect. Regards Gareth
Very nice Joe!
Studs, Washers, and Nuts would really look good.
I was thinking the same thing, square nuts.
Beautiful, and yes I was about to say socket head screws would look much nicer on this.
Beauty! Friction is a real enemy in these model engines, but u ain't got nothing to worry about.😁
Smooth so far.
I have really enjoyed watching you build this machine. Thanks for sharing this. Great work!
Also gave a thumbs up. I agree with Random Dude with the Saturday mornings..... Even Wile E. Coyote "super genius" could not have machined these parts this good !
Joe, I've said it many time. Fantastic work. You are build a museum quality model.
Thank you so much 👍
Ya I gave it a thumbs up, just as good as saturday morning cartoons when I was a kid. Really cool little engine, excellent entertainment Thanks again Joe
Excellent work Joe, its coming along very nicely, i don't tend to work on such small parts but your tips are much appreciated as they translate into the world of the large as well. you have even got me thinking about building a little engine
I thought you were making a tuning fork for a min there Joe! Love the fact you are Soooo enjoying this build, and you beat me to it with the hex heads. It is so refreshing to see you doing this build, I've watched so many hobby shop builds, don't get me wrong I will make as many mistakes as they do, or maybe not after all your tips, tricks n well knowledge! As always Joe TFS, G :)
More super work and fab results, again :) Thanks Joe.
Hi Joe,
Another enjoyable video. It's starting to come together. Not difficult now to imaging the engine running. :-) Stay safe.
Just in time! Thanks, Joe! I need to send you a fubared work piece from a couple of decades ago. I think you'll get a kick out of it.
Getting so excited to see this run! You do beautiful work, and hope you will do other steam builds I have really enjoyed all the videos!
Thanks for the video Joe.
Awesome, looking forward to the final assembly
Beautiful is correct. Finally, some assembly. Thank you.
Looking good Joe. Thanks.😎
Can't wait to see it run.
Me too.
Looks beautiful 👍 ! I could almost feel how smooth it moved . 😉 !
I think you are hooked. Welcome to the club!
I am enjoying this more than I thought I would. The EL1 model next in line. That will be challenging.
@@joepie221 I think most of us suffer from the perils of accumulating errors. They compound as the model comes together. You have shown that by following the print and the tolerances exactly, you are achieving accumulating precision, which is a joy to behold!
Beautiful work and machining process.
it is always good to watch your videos
That is a great idea on using the tap guide as a depth gauge. I’m wondering if it would be good to incorporate a scale on the part that slides in and out.
Excellent content- as usual !! Thanks, Joe.
Glad you enjoyed it
Joe, GREAT series! I've wanted to build a steam engine since I was in my teens. After many decades I now have my own small machine shop in my garage. Just need to get to it.
I have seen a great many model/small steam engines over the years. Most of them have the fillister head screws you used. They look more "period correct" than an allen cap screw.
I have a friend that has a small stationary steam engine that was designed and made by his father. He was a pattern maker and made all the patterns and casting himself. My friend still has the patterns! BTW, that engine has the same type screws you used... I'm working with him to purchase it as he doesn't really have an interest in stuff like this.
I personally will enjoy looking at this thing for many years to come. if you get a chance to build one, give it a shot.
@@joepie221 I started on Elmer Verburg's #33 mill engine from billet years ago, and set it aside before finishing. After watching your series I have pulled it back out and dusted it off. Thanks for the inspiration.
Great videos Joe, at 62 I'm finally putting together a shop (actually it's my first house) I have an 11x24 Chinese lathe and a Clausing 8525 mill and looking forward to do the things I have learned. Thanks.
That is awesome! Have fun and be safe.
@@joepie221 I'll always be safe, I grew up in a chain saw dealership and know what happens when you don't respect machines. I saw a couple of funny safety signs one said "This machine has no brain, use yours". and the other was " you probably came into this world by accident, don't go out by one".
I also wanted to tell you a story about a job I had where I made parts for food packing machines, I worked on a Bridgeport for an old German who designed them and built them from scratch, every morning he would give me a set of prints and tell me how many he needed,,one day he came up to me and said "Mark I like your work, when you make something it fits" I looked at him with a puzzled look and replied "Isn't it supposed too?". I had to machine ports in a tapered valve core made of an alloy called WM88 (from Waukesha steel) Manfred said to me I don't care how long it takes but they have to be right later on I thought about how much of a compliment that was because it came from a man from a culture who is fanatical about precision and he trusted my work. If he hadn't crashed his plane and died I would probably still work there, he was also my friend and I flew with him on his 3 flights just before he crashed, now I can relate to how my fathers aunt and uncle felt after they cancelled reservations for the Titanic.
Lovely bit of machining Joe keep the video coming
Thanks, will do!
I love the term 'extremely well' !
Me too.
As others have commented, the slotted screws are not the best fit, visually. I'm sure that you will come up with the appropriate screws to add to the appearance. Thank you for adding the still shots at the end of the video- they help with visualizing the scale of the model.
Thanks Joe
It is truly a thing of beauty. May I suggest a trip through the media blaster to dull the shine on the end bosses? The Scotchbrite finish is still too bright in comparison to the cast surface and draws the eye.
A quick dip in hydrochloric acid or vinegar will achieve a similar effect.
looking good Joe can't wait until you finish and put sum steam to it
Hex head bolts commonly bought at a hardware store
Or
More time period appropriate square head bolts
Think square heads would look nicer personally
It ‘s looking so good.
Thanks. Its a fun project and getting close to the end.
Magnificient......btw you took words out of my mounth about the studs and bolt. It looks great so far.
Looks awesome. I want to get me a kit but I need to get my shop back up and running first.
Another lovely job Joe. 👍
Thanks. This was a fun project.
As always Joe, fantastic work.
I really like the oil cups... I built a smaller version of this from Stuart about 15 years ago... The one I built was about half that size...
Thats really small.
Always enjoy your videos, tons of great tips over the years. Speaking for all the curmudgeons, that bandsaw blade looked a little coarse for the thickness of the "horseshoe" you cut off.
Technically, it was the wrong blade. Realizing that, use a zero clearance guide and push slowly.
Hey Joe, thank you for your videos, I’m always learning a lot from them. The bandsaw blade caught my eye, it looked to be a bit coarse for cutting the fairly thin fork - I am assuming the piece of wood underneath was to both have zero clearance and give the blade additional thickness to work with so it wouldn’t grab?
Another great video Joe, watch every week. If you are interested in hand tools and finishes I have been watching Chris Ramsey of Clickspring, some fantastic work that you might like. See the example here ua-cam.com/video/3PwAQZNLy0I/v-deo.html and the making of his clock series here ua-cam.com/video/dU7iKNmQBIs/v-deo.html comment section link to all the videos for this clock. Enjoy.
If you like Clicksprimg, you might also like AVE. He once claimed, they are twins separated at birth. but I suspect AVE is stretching the truth. Or lying. Ignore the foul language, it is meant as a parody, I'm sure. His name is also Chris I think, which supports the thought that he is lying, as does his approach to everything he does. Good fun if you don't take it too seriously.
Tiny bit of cotton as a wick will restrict excessive oil flow. Another trick i've used to make small holes smaller in brass/bronze, like in finding correct size carb jets, is to soft solder it full and blow through when solder is still molten.
I was thinking about cotton because the full sized version uses a stand tube and wick, as for carb jets no need for solder, a piece of magnet wire inserted in the jet will reduce the size as required
I like it. A piece of felt in the bottom of the cup has also been mentioned.
As usual great video. The thing I like the most is the fact that you are still thrilled to do such a project, when I'm sure you have done and still do much more complicated projects as your daily routine.
BTW - did you see my email?
Looks great! Maybe for a later video series you can upscale this and make a larger working engine...
The look of a flat head is my favorite personally. If only the slots were aligned lol
Go ahead and dare me.
Great discussion/tips/build
Hi Chuck. Thanks for stopping by. Its getting close to being done.
And we continue to progress toward a working engine. Their seems to be a lot of parts.
For sure, anything but the screws here. I am always a fan of black Allen head machine screws but studs would work too.
Except shcs or allen head bolts were invented long after engines like this were in common use. Allen bolts do however make a great source of already black oxide coated studs just by removing the heads and dressing the cut off end.
@@turningpoint6643 Thanks. I can use that for sure.
@@turningpoint6643 Awesome. That I can use for sure.
Thanks Much.
There was an article in 'The Home Shop Machinist' Jan/Feb 2008 about making miniature taps and dies for modellers to keep everything in correct proportions.
I know I'll never use 0.010" diameter, 350tpi but it was pretty interesting. (at least to me)
I I don't use anything smaller than 1.8mm or more usual 2mm which are commercially available and the carburettors I modify don't use smaller than 3.5mm diameter but some non-standard pitches up to 8 x1mm
I learned that a long time ago and have had great success over the years. Big handles are not for small taps.
Joe - Really enjoying this build. I’m getting a lot of useful machining tips which help me on my own steam loco build. Did you make your own sprung loading tapping alignment tool? If you did could you show us a build of one. I’m off to make one of your design small tap handle! 👍🙂 John 🇬🇧
Its called a spring loaded tap guide and is commercially available.
Why not make some hex bolts to replace the screws
Thank you!
Very nice Joe. Studs, washers and nuts to replace those screws?
I want to buy my lathe and mill and get started!
Great video joe but I’ve noticed the 1.125 red ink on your vice as been there for some time, does I have a purpose or have you just not got round to wiping it off yet?
Its gone now. Job specific.
Looking good Joe
Thanks 👍
Hi Joe,
Nice work... Out of interest why did you make the tapped threads for the oil cups deeper than the drawing stated.
Take care
Paul,,
So the cup bottomed out on the cup body and not leave any thread exposed. Strength and aesthetics.
@@joepie221 Thank you
@@joepie221 Aesthetically and design wise the full sized oil cups would have had a fairly thin brass nut on those threads used as a lock nut :-) The problem with all this is just where do you stop trying to replicate full scale.
By most standards Mrs. Cherry Hill / Hinds is probably the finest model engineer in the world that's alive today. This link will take you to the Shereline Craftsmanship Museum page about her. www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/Hill.htm about half way down the page is a list of unbelievable exact scale steam era engines she's built from scratch that are now kept at the prestigious Institution of Mechanical Engineers in London England. Clicking on each one of those will get you to full screen pictures that still don't do them justice according to one I know who's seen them in person. In judged shows she's won every award there is to win for her work and done so pretty much at every show she entered a model in since 1968. Another I'd judge as almost her equal would be Jerry Kieffer who's also listed on that Shereline website for anyone that's interested.
in the next video we see joe making small square or hex bolts for authenticity lol
I think that is coming, for sure!
A commenter on a previous video pointed out that McMaster-Carr has the hex bolts, studs, and nuts he needs in stainless. So I can't imagine him bothering to make them.
@@RonParker I can see buying the stainless studs for strength, but have to make the square nuts. Just have to...
Hex head bolts, you read my mind.
Nice Joe. Nice to see it coming together.
How many of those oil cups have to be made?
6. 2 for the slides, 2 for the crank bearing caps, and 1 on the rod and eccentric cam collar. By the time you get to #6, you'll have it figured out.
Great stuff. Cheers