for balancing use a any round rod shaped object, lay on flat level surface, tape ends down to prevent rolling, lay blade horizontally on rod evenly spaced / centered over connecting hole, blade position will indicate balance via heavy end down if not in balance, remove metal from heavy end of blade in small amounts until it positions itself evenly horizontally. noticed this procedure at a high volume pro-shop many years ago right after I bought one of those Christmas tree balancers (it wasn't even balanced by itself), saved $7.00 and $100.00, never had a balance issue since. regards.
You did a good thing, pointing out to keep track of which side of the blade goes down. My brother had an old Murray which he took the blade off of. When he put it back on the mower he got it on upside down. When he couldn't figure out why it could no longer cut grass, he gave it to me. I thereby got a very nice mower for free. It worked wonderfully until I hit that BIG rock with it. That was a sad loss.
For the thing about the impact working better to take blade off when in reverse that is so true. I have done it a time or two with my batter impact thinking why wont the blade come off and realize its still on forward.
I prefer 3/8” impact when removing the blade, it’s kinda hard to generate enough torque thorough a 1/4” adapter regardless great video and thanks for you’re time
Ya, I can't stand a mower with any vibration. I feel as if it is eating itself up. Smooooooooth is greatness in a mower for sure. Keep those blades balanced. :)
427GT40: I know what you mean. I had the same mower we just saw here. Push variety though. The vibration was terrible. Rather than doing something angry, I just gave it away. Considering the brand names on the body and engine of the mower, I was surprised and disappointed. My old Murray was better in every way till it hit a BIG rock. And that was my fault.
The biggest cause of nicks and dings that large is due to cutting the grass too short. I never cut less than 2 3/4 to 3 inches. Your using a 'fiber' type sanding pad. Try using actual sand paper type discs. It will remove more stock much easier & faster. Love your balancer , but I can tell you that the 'average' home owner IS NOT going to spend $100 to balance their blades, even though because of the type of blade your mower uses, is probably the right thing to do.
Hey Mark, I was wondering if that is the blade that came with your mower. I have the same mower and my blade does not have those mulching teeth. I actually took my blade off to sharpen it and noticed it is not a very good mulching blade so considering replacing it with a proper mulching blade
Probably a better idea to use a drop or two of blue (242, medium strength) loctite, as opposed to anti seize, but to each their own... Wouldn't want vibrations or impacts to cause that bolt to work it's way out, that blade could go flying quick!
I could see using loctite on a B&S motor but no need for that on Honda powered equipment. If the blade in properly balanced very little vibration is transferred into the hand controls.
Mark Fox -Not referring to vibration into the hand controls, referring to HFV of the engine running, causing the blade bolt to back out. Also, brand of engine is inconsequential. Same layout. Internal combustion engines inherently have vibration due to their method of operation, and there is no completely vibration, or High frequency vibration free engine layout yet.
A blade only stays sharp for about 15 or 20 minutes, so there is no use in going crazy with it.80% of the ctting is done with the last 2" of the blade.
Not quite a $1000, all but the balancer can be used for other things as well. I will add that you won't believe how low the vibration is with a perfectly balanced blade until you experience it for yourself.
When using a grinder, or anything really, to sharpen your blade use smooth even strokes that go the full length of the blade. Never go back and forth in one spot. You are making an extremely uneven edge when you do that.
Yeah, just like the old "face razor" sharpeners, this is important if there's no new blades available. But, I mean...just buy a new blade....unscrew, screw in...you're done. no compressor, angle grinder, nothing needed. no balancing needed. But, good video for what it it is.
F!@#Guilt but buying a new blade everytime it needs sharpening adds up and is a waste of money, if you know how to sharpen and balance it properly,there's no need to buy a new blade everytime, now I know every now and than you need to replace the blade but not every time you need to sharpen it!
for balancing use a any round rod shaped object, lay on flat level surface, tape ends down to prevent rolling, lay blade horizontally on rod evenly spaced / centered over connecting hole, blade position will indicate balance via heavy end down if not in balance, remove metal from heavy end of blade in small amounts until it positions itself evenly horizontally. noticed this procedure at a high volume pro-shop many years ago right after I bought one of those Christmas tree balancers (it wasn't even balanced by itself), saved $7.00 and $100.00, never had a balance issue since. regards.
You did a good thing, pointing out to keep track of which side of the blade goes down. My brother had an old Murray which he took the blade off of. When he put it back on the mower he got it on upside down. When he couldn't figure out why it could no longer cut grass, he gave it to me. I thereby got a very nice mower for free. It worked wonderfully until I hit that BIG rock with it. That was a sad loss.
For the thing about the impact working better to take blade off when in reverse that is so true. I have done it a time or two with my batter impact thinking why wont the blade come off and realize its still on forward.
I use the file but with a draw technique while facing the outer end. It's quick and stays flat. Like draw filing an octagon barrel. Same style.
Good luck...when you torqued at the end I had to look away. I have seen filleted arms and hands. Pull the wrench not push. :)
Good tip, I've never suffered a injury using that method over the years.
I prefer 3/8” impact when removing the blade, it’s kinda hard to generate enough torque thorough a 1/4” adapter regardless great video and thanks for you’re time
That burr on the back of the sharpened side is called a WIRE EDGE. And yes, it needs to be removed.
THANKS
Nice job. Thumbs up. Cool balancer, I need one of those babies.
It works great and my mower runs very smooth.
Ya, I can't stand a mower with any vibration. I feel as if it is eating itself up. Smooooooooth is greatness in a mower for sure. Keep those blades balanced. :)
427GT40: I know what you mean. I had the same mower we just saw here. Push variety though. The vibration was terrible. Rather than doing something angry, I just gave it away. Considering the brand names on the body and engine of the mower, I was surprised and disappointed. My old Murray was better in every way till it hit a BIG rock. And that was my fault.
The biggest cause of nicks and dings that large is due to cutting the grass too short. I never cut less than 2 3/4 to 3 inches. Your using a 'fiber' type sanding pad. Try using actual sand paper type discs. It will remove more stock much easier & faster. Love your balancer , but I can tell you that the 'average' home owner IS NOT going to spend $100 to balance their blades, even though because of the type of blade your mower uses, is probably the right thing to do.
Can one by adjusting and daily sharpening blades get the results a 6blade reel mower gives??
I've never tried that. I did own a reel mower many years ago but the don't do well with tall grass.
I'm very surprised you did not disconnect the spark plug. Safety first!
It's Honda powered not Breaks & Scrapem, no chance of accidental starting.
I have the exact balancer you have. Paid around $90 for it.
Hey Mark, I was wondering if that is the blade that came with your mower. I have the same mower and my blade does not have those mulching teeth. I actually took my blade off to sharpen it and noticed it is not a very good mulching blade so considering replacing it with a proper mulching blade
Yes, that is the blade that came on my mower. I bought a spare (same part #) from Lowes.
Do you have a link to get that particular blade? part number?
Lowes stocks it and that's where I purchased it. www.lowes.com/pd/Husqvarna-22-in-Multipurpose-Push-Lawn-Mower-Blade/4363299
Probably a better idea to use a drop or two of blue (242, medium strength) loctite, as opposed to anti seize, but to each their own...
Wouldn't want vibrations or impacts to cause that bolt to work it's way out, that blade could go flying quick!
I could see using loctite on a B&S motor but no need for that on Honda powered equipment. If the blade in properly balanced very little vibration is transferred into the hand controls.
Mark Fox -Not referring to vibration into the hand controls, referring to HFV of the engine running, causing the blade bolt to back out.
Also, brand of engine is inconsequential. Same layout. Internal combustion engines inherently have vibration due to their method of operation, and there is no completely vibration, or High frequency vibration free engine layout yet.
You might want to advise people to disconnect the spark plug first...
I never disconnect the spark plug, no chance of the motor firing without the bail being pulled.
Not impossible...unlikely, but depends on the position of the piston
disconnect the spark plug
A blade only stays sharp for about 15 or 20 minutes, so there is no use in going crazy with it.80% of the ctting is done with the last 2" of the blade.
what if your blade isn't centred?
Toss it in in the trash and buy new.
Ha, so you just need a thousand dollars for the tools and you have a perfectly sharpened blade!
Not quite a $1000, all but the balancer can be used for other things as well. I will add that you won't believe how low the vibration is with a perfectly balanced blade until you experience it for yourself.
When using a grinder, or anything really, to sharpen your blade use smooth even strokes that go the full length of the blade. Never go back and forth in one spot. You are making an extremely uneven edge when you do that.
It's better to use a wrench, or something that won't spin the blade fast enough to chop off you fingers when removing it.
sounds like a dentist's office
buy a bench grinder you could have finished in half the time
I own both a 6" and 8" bench grinders, they don't work so well with curved mulching blades.
Yeah, just like the old "face razor" sharpeners, this is important if there's no new blades available. But, I mean...just buy a new blade....unscrew, screw in...you're done. no compressor, angle grinder, nothing needed. no balancing needed. But, good video for what it it is.
F!@#Guilt but buying a new blade everytime it needs sharpening adds up and is a waste of money, if you know how to sharpen and balance it properly,there's no need to buy a new blade everytime, now I know every now and than you need to replace the blade but not every time you need to sharpen it!
Why don't you just take it to a shop. 6 dollars.
I won more tools than most shops plus I never let anyone else touch my stuff.
Disconnect the SPARKPLUG FIRST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
No reason to, it's a Honda engine not a Briggs, no chance of engine starting. I'm not Mr safety, make your own video and see if anyone watches it.
all your doing with that is polishing it and you realy dont know how to use that tool use the grinder in the vise