All kidding aside, we did this to anodized mag lites back in the day just to kill time. Nice work and if you ever decide to parkerize and cerakote you will have a gorgeous finish. It does remind me that thermal / IR cameras can't see any mirrored finishes. Instead of being hot, it just reflects everything around it.
Atleast do a 1000 then a 2000 before you start polishing. You wont really need a dremel other than a few small places. Its very easy to do a quick wet sanding. Where did you get a raw one already cut?
Dude! This is a fucking awesome video! I can totally tell that you are either prior service, or currently military. Army... Your voice is all soothing and professional, and then in all of the right places, you throw-in a "Shit" here and a "Fuck" there, and round-it-all-out with an in-depth block of instruction! I fucking love this shit! You're awesome, man! Thank you for taking the time to share this. It's exactly what I was looking to learn. Take care, Brother! All the Way!
Thanks. I’m getting a trigger for a Ruger lcp 2 22 light rack.from a company called Galloway precision .they don’t communicate well with customers,you can’t get them on the phone & the anodizing is inconsistent from what I’m hearing. The also only offer red & black. I’d rather have silver anyway. Shined dull or something in between. Not sure yet. There’s a 3 d printed blade safety.poly something/plastic?Dk anything about that stuff yet.& a roll pin holding the 2 pieces together. Don’t want to mess up any tolerance or anything. Going to order the last black one in stock.& go from there. Any advice you could help me with would be great. Thanks
You can leave the rolling pin and soak it in oven cleaner just make sure to "quench" it well with cold water after you're done and blow out all water and reoil the inside and springs. Then you can polish easy
Hey you can passivate the trigger with Citrus for 20 minutes but before you use the Citrus clean it with degreaser and it'll be a shinies that can be only for steal
I think I went 400 800 1k 2k. Around 1k you could polish without issues but I went to 2k cus I had it around. Just use lots of water and dawn dish soap to make the paper last longer as u go
The grip is great. I think the holes would be too small to get snagged on really. But the angle and the finger grooves are great for my hand. It's been just class so far!
What are you trying to remove the cerakote from? Are you sure it's been cerakote or is it just colored anodization? Many times items can be black, blue, red whatever and are only anodized with a special process. Cerakote is a whole different thing that's sprayed over something.
@@Slay_No_More aaah well as far as getting that cerakote off. You would need to either hand sand it with about 400 grit or so. Or have it bead blasted. Bead blasting will remove all the way down to the aluminum so you could then rematch it. If it's a small piece without too much intricacies you can probably hand sand it
You don't. Cerakote is applied over a media blasted metal for best results. Media blasting strips off the anodizing. If it's been Cerakote'd from the factory, it was never anodized. From a manufacturing point of view, there's no point. Either way, typically you have no anodizing under it since it's been removed for the coating.
Rifle bore brush wrapped in sand paper that's been soaked a while in water. Use an old brush as new will poke thru too easy on the paper. The goal is to grab the paper not stab in. U could also cut sand paper and glue it after wrapping around rifle cleaning rod
Vented 6" buff @ 3-4k rpm bench grinder and stick of tripolee bar Rouge don't forget ur gloves that shit gets hot. Enough pressure should take care of the internal corners u mentioned.
I wanna do the same thing to an ar lower and upper. I have an ar already but I wanna do it to another one built from scratch. The lower I'm gonna use is aluminum and comes anodized black, how exactly do I remove the anodizing so it's the raw aluminum?
You do not want to try this with a whole lower that's been anodized. But if you are intent on absolutely using that lower rather than buy a raw lower. You can boil it in a lye bath. Risky business and messy but doable. I would spend the 50 bucks and get a bearcreekarsenal.com or chandlerhardwoods.com raw aluminum lower.
@@Divorceization that's the problem lol this is the lower I wanna use www.cheaperthandirt.com/sharps-bros.-hellbreaker-stripped-ar-15-lower-receiver-7075-t6-aluminum-anodized-black/FC-850869008019.html
@@mikegraham2350 well, do you have access to a sand blaster? If you got an air compressor you can buy a small attachable sand blaster. I would try to see if u can use baking soda first to blast it off as the aluminum oxide or garnet sand medium is coarse enough to pit the aluminum ever so slightly that sanding it becomes a pain in the rear. If you have success sand blasting it you can then touch it up with oven cleaner treatments and some green scrub pads. Then move on to 800 grit 1500 grit 2000 grit and then polish it with mothers aluminum polish. Alternatively, and what would immensely help your project is to buy a bench polishing wheel thing and put on a bristle pad (not metal it's like a red scotchbright kind) and use the high speed wheel to help u. It would significantly speed everything up. I did all my stuff with sand paper and hand polishing and it is slow. Expect days of sanding this and that as you piece it all together.
I did! I will make a video when I have everything completed and show off the final results and maybe some range time. It will be a few weeks though since holiday season is here. I'm also waiting on a few goodies to sweeten the build too
@@Divorceization sweet! I look forward to it. Did you do any planning for rust prevention? If so I'd appreciate all your finding in the video! This looks like a really cool project I'd like to start myself
@@pk-tha-rapper most of the build is aluminum so it won't rust. I don't plan on it being used for hunting or getting it wet often so it shouldn't tarnish. Even if it does a little polish will bring it right back. Anything made of steel is nickel plated or coated black. So all I gotta do is care for the barrel, trigger, and bolt carrier group with a light oiling.
The dark color stuff is actually a moly lubricant it is most effectively remove with about 400-600 sand paper. Then once its all off. Give it one oven cleaner and sand it with 800, 1200, 2000 and polish it with some mothers polish and a rag
#1 strip it some costic acid and bead blast it to the bare metel #2 Then polish it to a mirror finish. #3 Then Dip it in Copper, then Nickel, and then Chrome. 😎
Many of the parts came raw or "in the white" like the upper, grip, lower, buffer tube, and charging handle which made it easier as I just had to sand and polish.
Yup but you just soak it in oven cleaner even longer and keep retreating. If it's been cerakoted you will have to sand it off or blast it. Once you've got it mostly stripped just start polishing. Others have mentioned doing a hot lye bath outside. But that wasn't realistic for me in an apartment
Would I need to disassemble it or not. I have access to a dental lab and all the air drive tools for the small crevices ect. That’s what you may want to get. Plenty of factory reconditioned ones for reasonable prices and foot peddle. Smooth rpms.think it would be right up your alley. Way better than electric. And bits impregnated polishing wheels. One type with flaps sort of. Can’t remember all the details. Be glad to mail you a catalog or send info or something. L8r
Hey there, you should have to disassemble everything if you don't want to but I think it makes it easier. But you ought to be able to manage pretty well
Absolutely but to gold plate you usually have to plate copper followed by nickel I believe but the mirror finish would look very sharp. Just buy an electroplating kit and follow their instructions
@@Jose-el7rf get the black off using the easy off oven cleaner then sand to perfection and you could then plate it copper>nickel>gold. You don't have to get all of the black off using the oven cleaner but it will make it easy. That anodized layer is fairly hard so it will save you from some heavier sanding.
I don’t think it will affect the overall strength of the gun but removing the anodizing leaves the raw aluminum which is very soft so it will scratch and gouge easily and will need to polish it often or it will get cloudy. Anodizing is just a Thin layer of aluminum oxide (aluminum rust) but it’s super strong and resists scratches and dings.
@@BongoisaPyro it's already pretty polished from them directly but never hurts to hit with one or two times of mothers mag and aluminum polish and a microfiber cloth to get a nice shine and a slight protective layer.
@@Divorceization Was wanting do my upper lower, but you said just buy them in the raw. I got some spray on purple anodizing at work I wanted to try out.
Usually you can buy uppers and lowers "raw" or "in the white" then sand them with 180-400-1200-2000 grits or so and polish with mother's aluminum car polish
4:55 gets to the point
thank you
All kidding aside, we did this to anodized mag lites back in the day just to kill time. Nice work and if you ever decide to parkerize and cerakote you will have a gorgeous finish.
It does remind me that thermal / IR cameras can't see any mirrored finishes. Instead of being hot, it just reflects everything around it.
Bro change your smoke detector batteries!
That’s why I came to the Comments to see if anybody said anything about it... that’s terrible!!
Just one of those youtube haters
LOL, For Real though @elevenBangBang... I just went to check all mine because you didn't change yours with every DST change. Get on it!
Yeah I gave it thumbs down because he made me go stand in my hallway twice for 5 minutes listening for my smoke detector.
Lmao i didnt even notice it, probably because mine was beeping away as i watched this
Great video man. well explained.
use shineseal to seal it up. It works. I have used it on my motorcycle.
Thanks! I'll have to look into applying that. I've been looking for a good finishing seal
What if you don't seal it up?
@@viauyeung it oxidizes and becomes dull in color
I too has a motorskickle!
I have an aluminum lower, do I have to sand it down or can I just go straight polishing it with a Dremel and some mothers mag & aluminum polish
Atleast do a 1000 then a 2000 before you start polishing. You wont really need a dremel other than a few small places. Its very easy to do a quick wet sanding. Where did you get a raw one already cut?
Dude! This is a fucking awesome video! I can totally tell that you are either prior service, or currently military. Army... Your voice is all soothing and professional, and then in all of the right places, you throw-in a "Shit" here and a "Fuck" there, and round-it-all-out with an in-depth block of instruction! I fucking love this shit! You're awesome, man! Thank you for taking the time to share this. It's exactly what I was looking to learn. Take care, Brother! All the Way!
Did you make the video of stripping the upper and polishing it?
Thanks. I’m getting a trigger for a Ruger lcp 2 22 light rack.from a company called Galloway precision .they don’t communicate well with customers,you can’t get them on the phone & the anodizing is inconsistent from what I’m hearing. The also only offer red & black. I’d rather have silver anyway. Shined dull or something in between. Not sure yet. There’s a 3 d printed blade safety.poly something/plastic?Dk anything about that stuff yet.& a roll pin holding the 2 pieces together. Don’t want to mess up any tolerance or anything. Going to order the last black one in stock.& go from there. Any advice you could help me with would be great. Thanks
You can leave the rolling pin and soak it in oven cleaner just make sure to "quench" it well with cold water after you're done and blow out all water and reoil the inside and springs. Then you can polish easy
Hey you can passivate the trigger with Citrus for 20 minutes but before you use the Citrus clean it with degreaser and it'll be a shinies that can be only for steal
You said you started with 400 grit sandpaper. What did you taper to before getting down to the finer 1000-2000 grit?
I think I went 400 800 1k 2k. Around 1k you could polish without issues but I went to 2k cus I had it around. Just use lots of water and dawn dish soap to make the paper last longer as u go
@@Divorceization great tip 👌 thank you
How did you do the handguards?
very nice!
Would it work to remove some nickel platting I have on my rifle?
Nice!
hey so if i buy a raw brand new aluminum upper .. how much polishing would i have to do to make it look like that?
Probably not much just some light wet sanding then polish away. Maybe 1 night of Netflix and polish
So you just sand the mag and polished it after right ? Simple way of saying it ???
Did you ever put a new battery in your smoke detector?
Haha nope, the place burned down so I had to move
How do you like that grip. I’m thinkin when I grab it my finger tips will want to wrap inside it
The grip is great. I think the holes would be too small to get snagged on really. But the angle and the finger grooves are great for my hand. It's been just class so far!
Eleven Bang Bang awesome thinkin of doin same grip but I’m a painter I’ll candy colour mine
I have a question, how would you remove cerakote from a anodized part while leaving the anodizing intact?
What are you trying to remove the cerakote from? Are you sure it's been cerakote or is it just colored anodization? Many times items can be black, blue, red whatever and are only anodized with a special process. Cerakote is a whole different thing that's sprayed over something.
@@Divorceization the guy said it was cerakoted, it was a factory black anodized receiver.
@@Slay_No_More aaah well as far as getting that cerakote off. You would need to either hand sand it with about 400 grit or so. Or have it bead blasted. Bead blasting will remove all the way down to the aluminum so you could then rematch it. If it's a small piece without too much intricacies you can probably hand sand it
@@Divorceization someone posted a video of sand blasting with salt, have you heard of that? But I think that messes up aluminum, doesn't it?
You don't.
Cerakote is applied over a media blasted metal for best results. Media blasting strips off the anodizing. If it's been Cerakote'd from the factory, it was never anodized. From a manufacturing point of view, there's no point. Either way, typically you have no anodizing under it since it's been removed for the coating.
How did you reach deep inside handguard when removing anodizing?
Rifle bore brush wrapped in sand paper that's been soaked a while in water. Use an old brush as new will poke thru too easy on the paper. The goal is to grab the paper not stab in. U could also cut sand paper and glue it after wrapping around rifle cleaning rod
Vented 6" buff @ 3-4k rpm bench grinder and stick of tripolee bar Rouge don't forget ur gloves that shit gets hot. Enough pressure should take care of the internal corners u mentioned.
Screw hand polishing
I wanna do the same thing to an ar lower and upper. I have an ar already but I wanna do it to another one built from scratch. The lower I'm gonna use is aluminum and comes anodized black, how exactly do I remove the anodizing so it's the raw aluminum?
You do not want to try this with a whole lower that's been anodized. But if you are intent on absolutely using that lower rather than buy a raw lower. You can boil it in a lye bath. Risky business and messy but doable. I would spend the 50 bucks and get a bearcreekarsenal.com or chandlerhardwoods.com raw aluminum lower.
@@Divorceization that's the problem lol this is the lower I wanna use www.cheaperthandirt.com/sharps-bros.-hellbreaker-stripped-ar-15-lower-receiver-7075-t6-aluminum-anodized-black/FC-850869008019.html
@@mikegraham2350 well, do you have access to a sand blaster? If you got an air compressor you can buy a small attachable sand blaster. I would try to see if u can use baking soda first to blast it off as the aluminum oxide or garnet sand medium is coarse enough to pit the aluminum ever so slightly that sanding it becomes a pain in the rear. If you have success sand blasting it you can then touch it up with oven cleaner treatments and some green scrub pads. Then move on to 800 grit 1500 grit 2000 grit and then polish it with mothers aluminum polish. Alternatively, and what would immensely help your project is to buy a bench polishing wheel thing and put on a bristle pad (not metal it's like a red scotchbright kind) and use the high speed wheel to help u. It would significantly speed everything up. I did all my stuff with sand paper and hand polishing and it is slow. Expect days of sanding this and that as you piece it all together.
Are you using oven cleaner to remove the color ??? Or why mention oven cleaner ???
Lol "its slippery" *drops it* but Damn every time I go to pick some up the aluminum polish is always out of stock...guess I'll order online and wait
3ish minutes in *beep*; time for you to change the battery in your smoke detector! lol
Nice! Did you ever do the upper? How did it turn out?
I did! I will make a video when I have everything completed and show off the final results and maybe some range time. It will be a few weeks though since holiday season is here. I'm also waiting on a few goodies to sweeten the build too
@@Divorceization sweet! I look forward to it. Did you do any planning for rust prevention? If so I'd appreciate all your finding in the video! This looks like a really cool project I'd like to start myself
@@pk-tha-rapper most of the build is aluminum so it won't rust. I don't plan on it being used for hunting or getting it wet often so it shouldn't tarnish. Even if it does a little polish will bring it right back. Anything made of steel is nickel plated or coated black. So all I gotta do is care for the barrel, trigger, and bolt carrier group with a light oiling.
@@Divorceization I just saw that cerakote has a clear coat for aluminum products now if you decide you want to protect it from corrosion!
Anodizing is great oxidation preventative. If you hard coat them you cant scratch it with a razor blade.
I'm trying to prove the parker finish on my ar mag with oven cleaner but it's not coming off what am I doing wrong?
The dark color stuff is actually a moly lubricant it is most effectively remove with about 400-600 sand paper. Then once its all off. Give it one oven cleaner and sand it with 800, 1200, 2000 and polish it with some mothers polish and a rag
I was 11B too. Ft. Benning 1/50th in 1994. When were you in?
2011-2014 mostly at Ft. Hood except of course OSUT at good old sand hill
Can you show us the finished rifle?
#1 strip it some costic acid and bead blast it to the bare metel
#2 Then polish it to a mirror finish.
#3 Then Dip it in Copper, then Nickel, and then Chrome. 😎
beautiful finish upper and lower but how to remove all anodizing on lower without wiping branding and serial number on the lower receiver
Did you do the same steps with your ar15
Many of the parts came raw or "in the white" like the upper, grip, lower, buffer tube, and charging handle which made it easier as I just had to sand and polish.
Black chrome would be awesome
The method you used for the mags is the same for the receivers and handguards?
Yup but you just soak it in oven cleaner even longer and keep retreating. If it's been cerakoted you will have to sand it off or blast it. Once you've got it mostly stripped just start polishing. Others have mentioned doing a hot lye bath outside. But that wasn't realistic for me in an apartment
What is the coating name of milspec magazine?
A milspec coating magazine is typically
Aluminum>anodized layer>dry moly lube
MOTHER'S POLISH!!
IS THE SH!T🎉🎉
Upper video ?
That oven cleaners working on you…
when you watch a 11 minute long video that could of been made 2 minutes long
Truth
Would I need to disassemble it or not. I have access to a dental lab and all the air drive tools for the small crevices ect. That’s what you may want to get. Plenty of factory reconditioned ones for reasonable prices and foot peddle. Smooth rpms.think it would be right up your alley. Way better than electric. And bits impregnated polishing wheels. One type with flaps sort of. Can’t remember all the details. Be glad to mail you a catalog or send info or something. L8r
Hey there, you should have to disassemble everything if you don't want to but I think it makes it easier. But you ought to be able to manage pretty well
Aluminum boat cleaner will take off anodizing very quickly
After mirror finishing it. Can I still gold plate it?
Absolutely but to gold plate you usually have to plate copper followed by nickel I believe but the mirror finish would look very sharp. Just buy an electroplating kit and follow their instructions
@@Divorceizationoh okay thanks. Will sanding by hand also work on lower and upper receiver that comes in black(anodized)
@@Divorceizationor will you recommend something else to remove them
@@Jose-el7rf get the black off using the easy off oven cleaner then sand to perfection and you could then plate it copper>nickel>gold. You don't have to get all of the black off using the oven cleaner but it will make it easy. That anodized layer is fairly hard so it will save you from some heavier sanding.
What an amazing Armalite. You're all geared up to be an African pirate.
If you can't shoot at least look good doing it!
Maybe they are finally going to make the sequel to Shakespeare in Love with shiny rifles instead of pistols.
Sooooo, you're polishing aluminum, not making aluminum chrome, like the title says.
I saw that and thought I'd watch to see if I could make some gold!
When u say sanding u mean all wet sanding no dry sanding?
U could do either but finish with wet sanding
Someone told me this would weaken it and not be able to shoot for long
I heard the same. That’s why I came to the comment section lol
I don’t think it will affect the overall strength of the gun but removing the anodizing leaves the raw aluminum which is very soft so it will scratch and gouge easily and will need to polish it often or it will get cloudy. Anodizing is just a Thin layer of aluminum oxide (aluminum rust) but it’s super strong and resists scratches and dings.
was that a black ar?😳
Some parts came black. I try to find them "raw" or "in the white" whenever possible so I don't have to strip and can just polish
I’ll buy one
What grip is that?
www.tyrantcnc.com/titan-2-0-polished.html
@@Divorceization does it shine up well?
@@BongoisaPyro it's already pretty polished from them directly but never hurts to hit with one or two times of mothers mag and aluminum polish and a microfiber cloth to get a nice shine and a slight protective layer.
Yeah, how long does it take to change the smoke alarm battery. It's annoying
Could’ve just bathed all of that in a gallon of nail polish
Nail polish or nail polish remover?
I have a similar weapon
Give me your email and Ill send pics
Lindas amar
Fuck yeah just earned a sub brother
Bro sell me a chrome looking one
False, easy off does not work stripping off that second coat of greenish paint.
Why are you talking like you had a traumatic brain injury?
I was drunk
@@Divorceization Ok. I was like... wtf? I was really hoping there was some super easy way to get the finish off my parts.
@@jorgevespucci9878 what are you trying to strip? And what do you want it to look like
@@Divorceization Was wanting do my upper lower, but you said just buy them in the raw. I got some spray on purple anodizing at work I wanted to try out.
How did you do the upper and lower ?
Usually you can buy uppers and lowers "raw" or "in the white" then sand them with 180-400-1200-2000 grits or so and polish with mother's aluminum car polish