A friend of mine and I first watched this here video almost 2 years ago now - at the beginning of 2018 - and, since then, she's made two acquisitions which fall into the category of "over fifty bucks": ① A vinyl-cutting machine (a Silhouette Cameo 3), and ② a laboratory power supply (0-30 VDC, 0-5 A). Everything else is minor purchases from the grocery store or hardware store. Since she made those purchases, she has eletro-etched _dozens_ of projects, from front-door signs to small "branding" metal squares on home-made handbags and such. The technique outlined in this video is _exactly_ the method she still uses today, including making those little fences out of plexiglass (of which she still has, and re-uses, about fifteen or so). We've watched other electro-etching UA-cam videos where the etching process itself is a _little_ bit different, essentially using a salt-water-soaked piece of cotton or something, bypassing the salt- and vinegar-filled fenced-in area, but neither of us has tried that method, so we cannot make any claims regarding whether it's any better or worse than what _this_ video describes. I can attest, however, that the method she follows, as outlined here, produces crisp, detailed results. Wanting to save some money - and to see if it worked at all - I _myself_ have also tried this method here, but instead of using a vinyl-cutting machine to produce a pattern (as I do not own one), I taped some blue painter's tape onto a small sheet of aluminum, and then I cut out my pattern using a hobby knife (eg, an X-Acto knife), and that actually turned out okay. Then, for a power supply, I went to a local second-hand store and picked one out from the surprisingly large collection of donated power supplies which were no longer paired with their respective appliances. If I recall correctly, it was _rated_ to output 12 VDC at 3 Amps. I modified the power supply in the way that one would in this case: I cut off the end that plugged into some appliance at one time, I separated the 2 wires from each other, I stripped off the ends from those wires, and then I attached some alligator clips to the ends of those wires (if memory serves, I used both solder _and_ screws). When it came time for me to _use_ that power supply, although I could tell that it was definitely doing something, as bubbles were visible, it wasn't pushing _nearly_ as much current as was required (in order for me to see results in minutes). Perhaps if I'd left it plugged in for a day, I might have gotten the results I was looking for. My point on that additional tidbit is that if you are considering doing some electro-etching yourself (dear reader), then I recommend getting *_either_* an adjustable car battery charger (a 2/5/10 Amp charger, for example - _not_ a "fully automatic" battery charger) *_or_* some type of adjustable laboratory power supply (such as 0-30 VDC and 0-5 A, which can be purchased at online retailers for as low as ~$50). Anyway, my friend and I are _both_ grateful to you, 556x45FMJ, for creating this video. My friend likes to make stuff, and I am sometimes the beneficiary of those creations. :).
Thanks, I have used your technique on several occasions. I have learned that if you remove the vinyl prior to the etch going deep enough, all is not lost. For simple designs, paint the surrounding metal with nail polish careful not to cover your design. Reglue the plastic and proceed with etching, or touch up with the q-tip charger method
I just finished doing this myself and it turned out amazing! Thank you for this video! Couldn't be happier with the results. Now I want to etch everything hahaha
best etching video I have seen by far!! Thank you. Half way through I was like.....wtf is he gonna do with the acrylic? Then I was like ohhhhhh that's WAY better than the other videos. Good job!
Very Nice. Back about 17 years ago I used to hand cut stencils for glass etching. That computerized cutter looks like a great tool to have. Thanks for sharing.
I used cheap contact paper (cream colored paper showed the pencil and ink lines the best, even better than white) to do that too (bottom of the page at Flicker ( www.flickr.com/photos/functional_art/ ). I did all the etch work in the photos using an Exacto knife, but, now, have a cutter. On the knives, I figured out, quickly, since the tips often broke within minutes on a big job, I was better off having a diamond plate near and just repointing and sharpening the end. Had one tip last fifteen years.
That video was awesome! Best video I've seen on UA-cam thanks so very much. I just finished an 80% lower and I can really personalize it now, just need to buy stencil cutting machine like you have so I can get very detailed work. Thanks
Thanks! My son and I did a test etch tonight on a strip of aluminum before doing his 7mm08 receiver/AR10, hopefully tomorrow. We built an acrylic dam just as you did sealing with hot glue and hung the second electrode about 1/2 - 5/8 inch above the work piece. We used a spare UPC 12 volt battery which provided right at 2 amps. We started etching too long, and our second test at 3 minutes was almost perfect but a little deep. Thus we will use 2 minutes 30 seconds just as you did. I guess since our current, voltage and salt concentration matched yours, it's not surprising that the time would also. Oh, the solution got to 100℉. Great help!
It should be noted, you'll want whats referred to as a "dumb" baterry charger like what he has in this video. Dont get one with any sort of LCD display or any fancy features. Otherwise the onboard computer wont "detect a battery" and wont put any power out. Unfortunately most places only sell the smart ones. So Craigslist or garage sales work good. Even if you tried use a smart charger and tried to hook up a battery parallel to the workpiece, you would only get the amount of amps shown on the battery, which is practically useless. I plan on using a used PC power supply, which will achieve the same effect (possibly more powerful). There's videos on how to wire that all up.
I have a desk top, variable, power supply, for testing and operating 12 V DC electronics & VHF radio. It allows you to dial up the volts & supplies up to 35 amps, as needed. It would work just fine!
Also it is very easy to disable by pulling a couple screws on the back. When I need a “Dumb Charger” I just wired in a simple toggle switch, in line of the voltage controller. You can search UA-cam here on how to do, it is very easy if ever need to also.
I did this using duct tape, exacto knife, 2 x 9volt batteries (wired in series), two pieces of copper wire, a chopstick take away kind. Cotton balls and some salty vinegar. Good video thanks.
Excellent video. I tried doing this with salt water and a car battery with a charger hooked up to It. It worked, but took 12 plus hours. Your results took two and a half minutes and had sharp edges. Mine took over 12 hours, and over time in the salt water, the edges of the vinyl started to lose adhesion, so the edges were kind of ragged. Will try white vinegar and salt . Thank you for sharing.
Fascinating, and great job. I do a lot of copper plating (you can see my copper plated wood turnings at the LumberJocks and Instructables web site addresses, below). Essentially, you are doing the same thing, using the etched item as the anode and the charger to move material from the anode to the cathode, which could be a copper or iron bar or wire (cheap is good). I use a DC power supply and everything I do, generally, only requires a couple amps or less and only about 300 millivolts (.3 volts). Food for thought, when considering power sources, like the one mentioned below. I experimented with this a few years back doing the Q-Tip approach, but building a tank around the portion to be etched kicks butt. For that experiment, I used one of the toy train power supplies I picked up at a garage sale. I suspect that would work for this too. ____________________________________ Kelly Craig's Lumberjocks web site: www.lumberjocks.com/projects/348297 Instructables web site with acrylic turnings with copper plated turned ends: www.instructables.com/id/Making-Light-Catching-Laminated-Wood-Plastic-and-C/
Very nice, my family has been in the sign business since 1932 my grandpa, my dad, now myself. My only suggestion is to use masking tape on the corners when you're weeding your stencil it holds it perfectly flat and still on your table , it also holds it while masking and use a squeegee to rub the transfer tape down...... It's worked for us since vinyl came into vogue in the 1970s
Very cool process. Thanks for the video instruction. Just a design suggestion: when putting type on an item and spending so much time prepping the item, make sure the spacing on your letters is correct. As a designer, my eye went immediately to the excess amount of space between the capital T and lower case r in the word Tread. Almost looks like T read (two separate words) instead of Tread. Otherwise, nice design!
They make high heat vinyl. I use it for masking off projects that I have to cure in an oven later, Cerakote/etc. It'll keep you from having a ruined project should your solution get hot.
@@BigWillSD Avery 235-s is what I've been using. It leaves a little bit of adhesive residue sometimes, but it easily comes off with rubbing alcohol or by dabbing it with duct tape to pull it off.
The vinyl cutters are pretty awesome these days. I was truly impressed with the results. I would love to see what happened after you anodized or cera-coated that lower. Did you go back and paint the inlayed areas? Thanks for making this video, great job!
Nice Work & Thank You for sharing. I’m doing a small project & don’t have a cutter. But I did find find some fingernail stencils at the Dollar Store that look pretty neat, for what I’m doing. Just FYI👍🏻
John Smithy Hey, Yes I did, they worked Great! I just used stencils & some knives form Dollar Store for practice. Patterns vary.... numbers & letters seem hard to find. Just try’n to understand technique. Pretty simple. A printer would be ideal, for sure. I did find a POOL of H2O/salt gave a deeper penetration. Be sure to mask off well that’s for sure.
I used a simple 1/8 steel flat bar for the negative electrode. I've used steel for brass, aluminum and stainless steel without issue. The steel does corrode in the salt solution so I did buy a brass flatbar to try. I only used the brass on a stainless plate, and the etch didn't come out as well as I'd have liked. Though I have no idea if the fault was the different metal or something else
+Joseph Gilbert I was wondering, can you do this with Anodized Aluminum or does it have to be raw form. I have some 80% lowers that are anodized so I'm wondering if it can be done. Thanks
That was one of the most comprehensive videos I've seen in quite some time. Thanks. How much do you charge the end customer for etching work? Is it piece, area, or amount?
Have you ever etched over an anodized lower? I've read about using Easy-Off over the stencil. I was wondering how the vinyl will hold up to the easy off. Thanks
If you don't have access to vinyl you can give the surface a couple of coats of hat beeswax and wait until it hardens. Once hard, use those pick like tools and carve down through the beeswax to the metal surface when making your design. Do you etch and then remove the wax with boiling water.
Another note: If you reverse the anode and cathode the copper will precipitate onto the other metal and plate it with copper. I did this using a car battery charger to plate my golf clubs. It didn't work with the one white metal 5-iron replacement. I don't know what it was but it was white metal; some kind of amalgam. The other clubs were Clevelands of a bronze looking metal. They looked great for a while then they turned that brown patina coppery color. but they still look interesting like an old bronze statue without the pigeon poop.
I've done this before this video was made. When you want really good details, don't cut a stencil. I use photo sensitive circuit board resist. It very easily gives you small or large details, is easy to expose (light bulb) and attach. You just need a transparent sheet of vinyl to print your image on, place it over the photo-resist, expose it to light and rinse the resist with water.
That worked well and was very impressive results. I was wondering what was the background music? I haven't heard that song in years and enjoy it. Thank you for the good information.
How many patients would you need do you figure? He did it by himself without any patients! Unless of course he is a patient. I doubt it because usually a patient wouldn't have that much patience...
I am confused. If heard that only AC current blackens the etch? I've been trying with a 17v 3amp DC psu but it is hardly Etching at all? I am using the earbud method.
Lmbo! When I played slot of cod live they would always be kind enough to let me know when its time to change my SD battery. Ain't played in a long time so thanks for the reminder lol. I cant hear them at all
Thanks for the great video! Is there a benefit to doing the etching this way as opposed to using the "Q-Tip method" and just tracing over the stencil with the solution instead of building the tank around the stencil and filling it with the solution?
mddrudge I have tried the Q-tip method and didn't like it. It didn't seem to etch as cleanly or as deep, and was very time consuming. I simply didn't have the patience.
Watched your video a few times gearing up for a try myself. Just have some questions. The piece of metal you hook the negative jumper cable to, that is suspended in the solution. What metal are you using? The receiver is Aluminum Is that piece of metal aluminum as well or something else? do different metal combinations work better or is there problems?Once again thanks for sharing.
A friend of mine and I first watched this here video almost 2 years ago now - at the beginning of 2018 - and, since then, she's made two acquisitions which fall into the category of "over fifty bucks": ① A vinyl-cutting machine (a Silhouette Cameo 3), and ② a laboratory power supply (0-30 VDC, 0-5 A). Everything else is minor purchases from the grocery store or hardware store. Since she made those purchases, she has eletro-etched _dozens_ of projects, from front-door signs to small "branding" metal squares on home-made handbags and such. The technique outlined in this video is _exactly_ the method she still uses today, including making those little fences out of plexiglass (of which she still has, and re-uses, about fifteen or so). We've watched other electro-etching UA-cam videos where the etching process itself is a _little_ bit different, essentially using a salt-water-soaked piece of cotton or something, bypassing the salt- and vinegar-filled fenced-in area, but neither of us has tried that method, so we cannot make any claims regarding whether it's any better or worse than what _this_ video describes. I can attest, however, that the method she follows, as outlined here, produces crisp, detailed results. Wanting to save some money - and to see if it worked at all - I _myself_ have also tried this method here, but instead of using a vinyl-cutting machine to produce a pattern (as I do not own one), I taped some blue painter's tape onto a small sheet of aluminum, and then I cut out my pattern using a hobby knife (eg, an X-Acto knife), and that actually turned out okay. Then, for a power supply, I went to a local second-hand store and picked one out from the surprisingly large collection of donated power supplies which were no longer paired with their respective appliances. If I recall correctly, it was _rated_ to output 12 VDC at 3 Amps. I modified the power supply in the way that one would in this case: I cut off the end that plugged into some appliance at one time, I separated the 2 wires from each other, I stripped off the ends from those wires, and then I attached some alligator clips to the ends of those wires (if memory serves, I used both solder _and_ screws). When it came time for me to _use_ that power supply, although I could tell that it was definitely doing something, as bubbles were visible, it wasn't pushing _nearly_ as much current as was required (in order for me to see results in minutes). Perhaps if I'd left it plugged in for a day, I might have gotten the results I was looking for. My point on that additional tidbit is that if you are considering doing some electro-etching yourself (dear reader), then I recommend getting *_either_* an adjustable car battery charger (a 2/5/10 Amp charger, for example - _not_ a "fully automatic" battery charger) *_or_* some type of adjustable laboratory power supply (such as 0-30 VDC and 0-5 A, which can be purchased at online retailers for as low as ~$50). Anyway, my friend and I are _both_ grateful to you, 556x45FMJ, for creating this video. My friend likes to make stuff, and I am sometimes the beneficiary of those creations. :).
Thanks for the helpful info!
F
.p77
Hghhyb
I feel like im watching a PBS special on a Saturday afternoon! Very well done friend!
Thanks, I have used your technique on several occasions. I have learned that if you remove the vinyl prior to the etch going deep enough, all is not lost. For simple designs, paint the surrounding metal with nail polish careful not to cover your design. Reglue the plastic and proceed with etching, or touch up with the q-tip charger method
Great video. I really appreciate how you showed step by step how it's done. Nice end result.
Thank you for the informative video, you make the process seem easy enough to get very good results w/o being overly involved.
Thanks again for this.
I just finished doing this myself and it turned out amazing! Thank you for this video! Couldn't be happier with the results. Now I want to etch everything hahaha
Great video! I bought my wife cricut for Christmas and just got 2 80% to build. You've got me excited to try this
best etching video I have seen by far!! Thank you. Half way through I was like.....wtf is he gonna do with the acrylic? Then I was like ohhhhhh that's WAY better than the other videos. Good job!
I have to say you read my mind. I've never seen better at home etching!
That smoke detector battery alert is killing my ADD
Nice work, and the best idea and result I have seen...
Very Nice. Back about 17 years ago I used to hand cut stencils for glass etching. That computerized cutter looks like a great tool to have. Thanks for sharing.
I used cheap contact paper (cream colored paper showed the pencil and ink lines the best, even better than white) to do that too (bottom of the page at Flicker ( www.flickr.com/photos/functional_art/ ). I did all the etch work in the photos using an Exacto knife, but, now, have a cutter.
On the knives, I figured out, quickly, since the tips often broke within minutes on a big job, I was better off having a diamond plate near and just repointing and sharpening the end. Had one tip last fifteen years.
That video was awesome!
Best video I've seen on UA-cam thanks so very much.
I just finished an 80% lower and I can really personalize it now, just need to buy stencil cutting machine like you have so I can get very detailed work. Thanks
Thanks! My son and I did a test etch tonight on a strip of aluminum before doing his 7mm08 receiver/AR10, hopefully tomorrow. We built an acrylic dam just as you did sealing with hot glue and hung the second electrode about 1/2 - 5/8 inch above the work piece. We used a spare UPC 12 volt battery which provided right at 2 amps. We started etching too long, and our second test at 3 minutes was almost perfect but a little deep. Thus we will use 2 minutes 30 seconds just as you did. I guess since our current, voltage and salt concentration matched yours, it's not surprising that the time would also. Oh, the solution got to 100℉. Great help!
Hands down best DIY video on UA-cam thanks!
It should be noted, you'll want whats referred to as a "dumb" baterry charger like what he has in this video. Dont get one with any sort of LCD display or any fancy features. Otherwise the onboard computer wont "detect a battery" and wont put any power out.
Unfortunately most places only sell the smart ones. So Craigslist or garage sales work good.
Even if you tried use a smart charger and tried to hook up a battery parallel to the workpiece, you would only get the amount of amps shown on the battery, which is practically useless.
I plan on using a used PC power supply, which will achieve the same effect (possibly more powerful). There's videos on how to wire that all up.
what about a 12V power inverter that was used to power a camper it maintains about 12.8 volts
He mentioned using the 2 amp setting. The El Cheapo batt chargers in that range are rarely automatic.
I have a desk top, variable, power supply, for testing and operating 12 V DC electronics & VHF radio. It allows you to dial up the volts & supplies up to 35 amps, as needed. It would work just fine!
Also it is very easy to disable by pulling a couple screws on the back. When I need a “Dumb Charger” I just wired in a simple toggle switch, in line of the voltage controller. You can search UA-cam here on how to do, it is very easy if ever need to also.
I did this using duct tape, exacto knife, 2 x 9volt batteries (wired in series), two pieces of copper wire, a chopstick take away kind. Cotton balls and some salty vinegar. Good video thanks.
Thank you for posting this video. Amazing detail, making it a very easy process.
That came out incredibly well, nice job!
Excellent video. I tried doing this with salt water and a car battery with a charger hooked up to It. It worked, but took 12 plus hours. Your results took two and a half minutes and had sharp edges. Mine took over 12 hours, and over time in the salt water, the edges of the vinyl started to lose adhesion, so the edges were kind of ragged.
Will try white vinegar and salt . Thank you for sharing.
Great tutorial. Thank you for taking the time to video and post it.
That was well explained. Very informative. Thanks for sharing.
Good video, very well explained how to do this. Sounds like something I might try.
Well done Sir, thanks for sharing your technique.
FREAKING AMAZING!! wow thoroughly enjoyed the video, never knew this was possible
Great informative video super pumped and confident I can etch some small projects after your video. Thanks
Fascinating, and great job.
I do a lot of copper plating (you can see my copper plated wood turnings at the LumberJocks and Instructables web site addresses, below). Essentially, you are doing the same thing, using the etched item as the anode and the charger to move material from the anode to the cathode, which could be a copper or iron bar or wire (cheap is good).
I use a DC power supply and everything I do, generally, only requires a couple amps or less and only about 300 millivolts (.3 volts). Food for thought, when considering power sources, like the one mentioned below.
I experimented with this a few years back doing the Q-Tip approach, but building a tank around the portion to be etched kicks butt.
For that experiment, I used one of the toy train power supplies I picked up at a garage sale. I suspect that would work for this too.
____________________________________
Kelly Craig's Lumberjocks web site:
www.lumberjocks.com/projects/348297
Instructables web site with acrylic turnings with copper plated turned ends:
www.instructables.com/id/Making-Light-Catching-Laminated-Wood-Plastic-and-C/
Best etching video ive ever seen
way more involved then most videos.. great results. im going to do mine this way
VERY well presented and easily understood.
Great video,very well put together👍👍🎯🎯
Wow this is art! Awesome!
well done! very professional looking!
Good work well done my friend
Very nice, my family has been in the sign business since 1932 my grandpa, my dad, now myself. My only suggestion is to use masking tape on the corners when you're weeding your stencil it holds it perfectly flat and still on your table , it also holds it while masking and use a squeegee to rub the transfer tape down...... It's worked for us since vinyl came into vogue in the 1970s
Very cool process. Thanks for the video instruction. Just a design suggestion: when putting type on an item and spending so much time prepping the item, make sure the spacing on your letters is correct. As a designer, my eye went immediately to the excess amount of space between the capital T and lower case r in the word Tread. Almost looks like T read (two separate words) instead of Tread. Otherwise, nice design!
This was a great video thanks for sharing it!
This is an excellent how-to video. Thanks.
Thanks, great video and well done. Appreciate it!!
Thanks for sharing! You answered a bunch of questions!
best video on youtube for this method... thanks
That dam you built on the receiver would make a mighty fine SHOT GLASS!!! LOL Good work!
Great video! Very very detailed
that's fantastic, thank you for this awesome video! Very informative
Outstanding technique. Great video. Thanks for sharing.
Really neat! Great video
Man that scratching at the end killed me lol
Looks good, looks damn good. I think I will try this set up. It's not all that difficult.
Great work and it's just that simple. Simple?!!!
Superb, well made and educational video
Very informative, thanks for posting.
Good stuff and thank you. Debunks the fear of trying to etch.
I like this method, good video.
Thank you for posting the video 👍 🍺 good info
They make high heat vinyl. I use it for masking off projects that I have to cure in an oven later, Cerakote/etc. It'll keep you from having a ruined project should your solution get hot.
Do you have a brand or model # of the vynal?
@@BigWillSD Avery 235-s is what I've been using. It leaves a little bit of adhesive residue sometimes, but it easily comes off with rubbing alcohol or by dabbing it with duct tape to pull it off.
Very good work!
That is amazing!
Thank you for sharing. Great video
The vinyl cutters are pretty awesome these days. I was truly impressed with the results. I would love to see what happened after you anodized or cera-coated that lower. Did you go back and paint the inlayed areas? Thanks for making this video, great job!
Bro, thanks for the tip. Awesome.
Nice Work & Thank You for sharing. I’m doing a small project & don’t have a cutter. But I did find find some fingernail stencils at the Dollar Store that look pretty neat, for what I’m doing. Just FYI👍🏻
John Smithy Hey, Yes I did, they worked Great! I just used stencils & some knives form Dollar Store for practice. Patterns vary.... numbers & letters seem hard to find. Just try’n to understand technique. Pretty simple. A printer would be ideal, for sure. I did find a POOL of H2O/salt gave a deeper penetration. Be sure to mask off well that’s for sure.
I’ve found finger nail polish works well, paint on & scribe (freehand stuff) then etch. Good for masking tight spots too. Acetone takes it right off.
John Smithy Cool 👍🏻🇺🇸
I used a simple 1/8 steel flat bar for the negative electrode. I've used steel for brass, aluminum and stainless steel without issue. The steel does corrode in the salt solution so I did buy a brass flatbar to try. I only used the brass on a stainless plate, and the etch didn't come out as well as I'd have liked. Though I have no idea if the fault was the different metal or something else
+Joseph Gilbert How did stainless steel stand up in the solution as an electrode? Or have you tried that combo?
+Joseph Gilbert I was wondering, can you do this with Anodized Aluminum or does it have to be raw form. I have some 80% lowers that are anodized so I'm wondering if it can be done. Thanks
Very freaking cool brother....thank you for the video!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
That was one of the most comprehensive videos I've seen in quite some time. Thanks. How much do you charge the end customer for etching work? Is it piece, area, or amount?
Thanks for sharing. Great info.
Pretty cool brototoe. Thanks
Looks great
Excellent video :)
Pretty cool hack. Thanx for the video.
Have you ever etched over an anodized lower? I've read about using Easy-Off over the stencil. I was wondering how the vinyl will hold up to the easy off. Thanks
Can you apply enamel paint into the etched recess? Set it off with some color?
Thanks, Bob
If you don't have access to vinyl you can give the surface a couple of coats of hat beeswax and wait until it hardens. Once hard, use those pick like tools and carve down through the beeswax to the metal surface when making your design. Do you etch and then remove the wax with boiling water.
Nice job!!
Another note: If you reverse the anode and cathode the copper will precipitate onto the other metal and plate it with copper. I did this using a car battery charger to plate my golf clubs. It didn't work with the one white metal 5-iron replacement. I don't know what it was but it was white metal; some kind of amalgam. The other clubs were Clevelands of a bronze looking metal. They looked great for a while then they turned that brown patina coppery color. but they still look interesting like an old bronze statue without the pigeon poop.
In the world of vinyl cutting it is called weeding tools.
Dude that came out fn sweet
I've done this before this video was made.
When you want really good details, don't cut a stencil.
I use photo sensitive circuit board resist. It very easily gives you small or large details, is easy to expose (light bulb) and attach.
You just need a transparent sheet of vinyl to print your image on, place it over the photo-resist, expose it to light and rinse the resist with water.
Nice color fill and bam!!
Very cool thank you.
Excellent. Thanks !
Good video.
That’s pretty cool
That worked well and was very impressive results. I was wondering what was the background music? I haven't heard that song in years and enjoy it. Thank you for the good information.
Most excellent!!
Cool video
Would a clay barrier be sufficient for le reservoir??
Can you show the completed build? Great video!!!
Awesome job, think I will have it done.I don't have the patients to do that.
How many patients would you need do you figure? He did it by himself without any patients! Unless of course he is a patient. I doubt it because usually a patient wouldn't have that much patience...
I am confused. If heard that only AC current blackens the etch?
I've been trying with a 17v 3amp DC psu but it is hardly Etching at all?
I am using the earbud method.
@556x45FMJ nice video! What 80% lower is that? Thx
Will this work on any metal or just aluminum?
What did you use for the electrode that was suspended in the electrolyte ?
Does this work on my AR lower that is not raw metal and is still factory black???
Please change the battery in your smoke detector. Thanks.
William Whittaker I was thinking the same thing😂
Glad it wasn't just me hearing things!
Lmbo! When I played slot of cod live they would always be kind enough to let me know when its time to change my SD battery. Ain't played in a long time so thanks for the reminder lol. I cant hear them at all
What tools did you use for that fine 'picking'? I am so going to try this.
Nicely done instructional video. Just a little trouble on focus a couple of times. Good presentation.
Well done sir
What if you have a lower that has been already coated?
Thanks for the great video! Is there a benefit to doing the etching this way as opposed to using the "Q-Tip method" and just tracing over the stencil with the solution instead of building the tank around the stencil and filling it with the solution?
mddrudge I have tried the Q-tip method and didn't like it. It didn't seem to etch as cleanly or as deep, and was very time consuming. I simply didn't have the patience.
Very nice thank you🕶"
Watched your video a few times gearing up for a try myself. Just have some questions. The piece of metal you hook the negative jumper cable to, that is suspended in the solution. What metal are you using? The receiver is Aluminum Is that piece of metal aluminum as well or something else? do different metal combinations work better or is there problems?Once again thanks for sharing.